Local Flavor February 2013 by Cullen Curtiss

Vinaigrette

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant Week! Nibbles For Your Valentine Apple Mountain Music Folks Who Is the Candyman?

FEBRUARY 2013

Wins Albuquerque Hearts

A TASTE OF LIFE IN NEW MEXICO

Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos

FEBRUARY 2013

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Inside: 8

by Kelly Koepke

by Barry Fields

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Buzz

Who Is the Candyman?

What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!

by Tania Casselle

by Erin Brooks

Eat Your Peas

Taos Hum

Two Taoseños you should know: Jenny Bird, musician extraordinaire, and Josseph the Starwatcher.

Old Town welcomes Erin Wade and her trendy new restaurant, Vinaigrette, with open arms. Eat your veggies, Albuquerque!

A Dash of Passion by Gail Snyder

Photo: Kate Russell

A love of music and a belief in its power to change lives is at the heart of The Candyman. Randy and Cindy Cook are the husband-and-wife team who make it all happen.

With names like Bouche and Love Apple and Pasión, you can bet that these restaurants are dishing up more than just a dash of passion. We bring you five daring recipes for an evening of fireworks.

It’s Here! Restaurant Week 2013 by Melyssa Holik

It’s the event that frugal foodies and adventuresome diners wait for all year. Restaurant Week 2013 is here!

by James Selby

by Gordon Bunker

Midtown Bistro

Apple Mountain Music

Edmund Catanach and Angel Estrada open their wonderful new restaurant, Midtown Bistro, and define an entire neighborhood in the process. Welcome to Midtown, Santa Fe!

It’s the heart and soul of folk music right in the Duke City.

Still Hungry?

ON OUR COVER:

Erin Wade of Vinaigrette. Photo by Kitty Leaken.

by Dené Shelton

La Casa Sena Wine Shop pairs four distinguished Grower Champagnes with recipes from Chef Patrick Gharrity.

February 2013 ~ Publishers Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor Patty Karlovitz Web Editor & Production Manager Melyssa Holik Art Director Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kitty Leaken Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Albuquerque: Leslie Davis 505.933.1345. Chris Romero 505.670.1331. Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation LocalFlavor 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com Website: www.localflavormagazine.com localflavor welcomes new writers. Send writing samples to localflavor@earthlink.net localflavor is published 11 times a year: Feb, March, April, May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan. Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

FEBRUARY 2013

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Loretto Loves You! 20% off for Locals Every Day for Every Treatment in our Award Winning Spa Complimentary Valet Parking

505.984.7997 | innatloretto.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

the

letter

Photo: Gabriella Marks

On our cover this month is Erin Wade, the brains behind the remarkably popular Old Town restaurant Vinaigrette. Erin has expanded her salad bistro concept from Santa Fe to Albuquerque, where enthusiastic diners are proving once again that when a creative vision is paired with a passion for healthy food and bold flavors it will always attract customers. Erin is no stranger to Local Flavor; the last time you read about her in our magazine was in our farm issue. For that story we caught up with her—complete

FEBRUARY 2013

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with well-worn overalls—at her 10-acre farm outside of Nambé where a substantial portion of produce is raised each year for her restaurants. She’s the real deal and proof that the movement for local and sustainable food is not a fleeting trend here in New Mexico but a definition of who we are and what we believe in. Although it may be difficult to imagine a time when the nicknames for destinations like Old Town or the Plaza seemed novel; Santa Fe, like Albuquerque, is now beginning to define itself by neighborhood. You’re familiar with Southside and the Railyard, and now, we’ve got … Midtown? Yep, Midtown. It’s the stretch along Cerrillios that is home to Jambo and Felipe’s––right up to San Mateo where Chocolate Maven, Second Street Brewery and Sweetwater anchor the district. And now, enter Midtown Bistro, putting a name to this neck of the woods, and definitely making a name for itself. Respected veterans of the restaurant scene, Edmund Catanach and Angel Estrada, have created a strikingly beautiful space and a sophisticated menu that hits just the right price points. For the home cook determined to stay home on Valentine’s Day we have two stories, each one offering a delightful smattering of recipes. The first, A Dash of Passion, features five chefs and restaurant pros showing off with witty, tongue-in-cheek comments on their favorite recipes for an evening of romance. The second is our always-popular column Still Hungry?, which this month is showcasing unique Grower Champagnes along with with perfectly paired recipes and helpful tasting notes. (This is just in case you need a little ice-breaker during the evening. It’s always a plus to let on that you’re not just a great and gorgeous cook but you know your wine as well!) We also acknowledge the other great language of love—music. Who would have guessed that one of the finest folk music centers in all of the Southwest is located right in Albuquerque? The astonishing diversity of musical instruments by itself is worth a visit to Apple Mountain Music, but watch out for that dulcimer or psaltery or ocarina—it may just be love at first sight. And in Santa Fe, the Candyman is the place to go. It has been at the heart of the music scene for more than 40 years, and, like true love, it just keeps getting better and better. Now in the caring hands of Randy and Cindy Cook, it moves forward into a new decade. Nestle in with your copy of Local Flavor and enjoy the stories of the people we met this month that we thought you would enjoy meeting, too. Stay warm and hold the people and pets you love close to your heart.

letter

to the editor

I would like to share this lovely letter from Chef Cristian Pontiggia of Osteria d'Assisi with our readers and Cristian's fellow chefs.

Dear Local Flavor and Staff,

BO TWIN

e y e s

EY E

GRO U P

o p t i c s S A N TA

DR. MARK BOTWIN DR. JONATHAN BOTWIN DR. JEREMY BOTWIN

| Executive Chef Osteria D’ Assisi

Photo: Gabriella Marks

I Cristian Pontiggia would like to personally thank you for the continued support you have shown for myself and Osteria D’ Assisi. Since arriving in Santa Fe I have felt so appreciated and welcomed into this wonderful community. Santa Fe, Local Flavor and Osteria have made me feel right at home in this new country.

444 St Michaels Drive

Optometric Physicians 505.954.4442 BotwinEyeGroup.com

I have always aspired to be able to share my passion of food with the community and to have such great support for all of our customers new and old really touches my heart! I would also like to thank the local chefs of Santa Fe! Your inspiration drives me and I consider us to not only be friends but part of something much larger, a “chef family” if you will. To know that there are other business owners/ chefs out there striving to offer freshest local ingredients possible just reminds me of why I began my career. Since arriving in Santa Fe I have the esteemed privilege to be one of the chefs to participating in the Cooking with the Kids program. This really means a lot to me because I believe that there are so many young future chefs out there waiting for some direction as I once was. Just to know that there is a program out there like this really makes me appreciate my community and is certainty one of my greatest achievements! I always want to give back to my community and I am so proud that I have the ability to. During the month of January Osteria and myself will be donating a percentage of our revenue to Cooking with the Kids. I will also be donating any personal gratuity I receive to the program as well! I can only hope that more restaurants will follow our effort to support our future! Thank you Local Flavor, the community of Santa Fe and all of you foodies out there! Buon Appetito!

Cristian Pontiggia A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

the

buzz

ALBUQUERQUE After its usual post-holiday vacation, Jennifer James 101 is back with a new menu. Not just different like it’s always different, but different different—smaller entrees (size and price), a tapas-like option to “graze” your way through a few smaller plates, and more gluten- and dairy-free options. Customer requests have also made JJ’s special three-course Thursday night dinners—only $25—a permanent addition. Add one of five wines for another $25! The girls are back, and our taste buds couldn’t be happier.

| Jennifer James 101 A couple of notable restaurant milestones: JC’s New York Pizza Department celebrates ten years with a new pizza. The Sicilian’s thicker, deeper crust has already earned raves, and you’ll rave about the $10 price tag. And what goes better with pizza than beer? Back Alley Draft House opened quietly at the end of 2012 right behind NYPD, boasting 28 fine New Mexico beers on tap. Catch your favorite games, throw some darts or fill your growlers, and fill your belly with the full NYPD menu. The second notable milestone is the first anniversary of Mark Kiffin’s upscale taco joint in Nob Hill, Zacatecas. I dream about the crunchy, zingy ceviche tostadas from award-winning chef Daniel Marquez, and my better half lauds the tres leches cake as the best he’s had. The tequila cocktails alone, many created by personable manager Marina Luger, are reason to raise a glass to one of Nob Hill’s bright lights. Hey Duke City residents, how about this: Albuquerque ranks among the top winter food destinations—at least according to Zagat and Fodor’s, those rags. Seriously though, the word has awakened to what we already knew: ABQ’s a friendly, affordable getaway for foodies, nature lovers and families. Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm, Hotel Andaluz and Farina Pizza were mentioned as places to stay and eat while visiting. And with the second location of Farina opening in spring, we’ll have even more to offer visitors. Another “mark your calendar” item: The brain trust behind EDo’s gourmet burger 8

FEBRUARY 2013

the queso dip.) On February 17, cellist Laura Metcalf and guitarist Rupert Boyd perform Piazzolla, Messiaen and Bergmuller. Australian Boyd has been described by The Washington Post as “truly evocative,” and by Classical Guitar Magazine as “a player who deserves to be heard.” Metcalf, as part of Sybarite 5, won the prestigious Concert Artists Guild competition in 2011. In addition, she is a soloist, orchestral musician, and teacher. More dates and purveyor Holy Cow have bought and are renovating kitty-corner neighbor and local icon complete line up at www.chatterchamber. org. Milton’s diner. Chris Medina and partners, architect Michael Wewerka and night clubber David Boyd, are tearing the place apart, to rebuild it better than ever. Santa Feans know Medina from Geronimo, and Wewerka did the build-out for Farina, just down the street. We can’t wait to see what the boys have in mind for the new Milton’s. Was one of your New Year’s resolutions to move more? Why not try New Mexico’s only LGBT square dance club, The Wilde Bunch? They’re offering a free open house the first Monday of every month from 7-9 pm. All classes are at the Albuquerque Square Dance Center, 4909-15 Hawkins NE. Visit www. wildebunch.com. Resolved to eat more fresh local food? The Downtown Action Team has started a Community Supported Agriculture program through the winter. For $10 a week, you can eat your greens and other local organic produce. Email zlopata@downtownabq.com if you want in for Friday pick ups at DAT or The Supper Truck outside Tractor Brewery. Resolved to try a new restaurant? Like Rocka Taco at 113 Harvard Drive SE, in the Bricklight District across from UNM? It’s a project of Matt Nichols, owner of Gold Street Caffe, and it features fresh ingredients for his tacos, using some recipes from dear departed Fajitaville. Mmm …. Fajitaville salsa. Go Matt! Combine (relatively) new restaurant with local food on February 12 when Farm & Table features a six-course dinner exploring cacao and its historical link to New Mexico. A group of UNM archeologists found traces of cacao in several drinking vessels in an excavation at Chaco Canyon. That’s chocolate, people! Exec Chef Jaye Wilkinson and her team will include cacao in each course, paired with wine, and offer a chocolate demo by chocolate historian, Mark Sciscenti. Call 505.503.7124 for reservations. Don’t give up music for Lent, folks. It’s part of what makes the season special. The Friends of Cathedral Music Series kicks off the abstemious season with Jacqueline ZanderWall, mezzo soprano, and Maxine Thévenot, pianist, in a presentation of Robert Fleming’s 50-minute song cycle “The Confession Stone (Songs of Mary),” featuring poems by Owen Dodson. It’s happening Friday, February 22, at 7 p.m. at Anna Kaseman Hall, The Cathedral of St. John, downtown. Tickets at www. fcmabq.org and at the door. Don’t miss Sunday Chatter, either. February 3 marks five years of the Sunday series. (Yes, that’s Super Bowl Sunday. The 10 a.m. performance leaves plenty of time to nuke magazine.com

Masquerade Ball at ArtBar. The free opening party is February 5 at Blackbird. The highlights are Poe, by Dr. John Hardy presented by Duke City Repertory February 7-17, and Blackout’s Poe Project: Merely This and Nothing More, running from March 22-April 7 at VSA North 4th Arts Center. Visit www.dukecity.wix.com/ poefestival. Need a little intrigue? Aux Dog Theatre Nob Hill presents Mystery in Morocco, a mystery where guests are ushered into a Moroccan riad (hotel) where they enjoy either a four-course Moroccan meal or hors d’oeuvres and tea. Then the ghost of someone who died with unfinished business prompts guests to solve the mystery. It’s running through March, and you can find out more at www.thecabaretplayers.com.

SANTA FE

| Laura Metcalf at Chatter Something not to miss on February 5? The Dishcrawl tour of four restaurants in one night. It’s the sensation sweeping the continent (at least New York City, Montreal, Ottawa, San Jose, Toronto, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C.). It’s much like a pub crawl, except during Dishcrawl a Dishcrawl Ambassador leads attendees through the progressive, prix fixe evening from one food experience to the next. But they won’t know where until two days before the event! Tickets are $45 at www.dishcrawl.com/ Albuquerque. A much larger experience can be had February 16 from 2-7 at the Albuquerque Convention Center. The New Mexico Cup brings together music, unlimited sampling from dozens of regional wineries and local breweries, demos, raffles, games, vendors and voting for the best New Mexico beers and wines. The list of grape and grain purveyors includes St. Clair, Il Vicino, Bosque Brewing, Marble, Gruet, Ponderosa Valley and more. Leave the kiddies (anyone under 21) at home— this is an adult event. And it benefits Albuquerque’s most inventive theater company, Tricklock. I’ve got my wine glass ready! Visit www.nmcup.org for more information. Speaking of theater, my tickets are in hand for Duke City Repertory Theatre’s Poe Fest, a joint project with Blackout Theatre Company celebrating of the life and works of the renowned Edgar Allan Poe. Poe-centric activities continue through April, including Po(e)p Quizzes at Nexxus Brewery, Comedy? Presents Sketchy Poe at The Box Performance Space, The Bells: A Night of Poe Inspired Music at Blackbird Buvette and the Mask of the Red Death

It’s February, but the good people at Taberna and La Boca continue their holiday cheer with the La Boca winter wine special from Chef James Campbell Caruso and crew. That means half price bottles (those between $65 and $100) Sunday through Tuesday, from now until the end of March! At Taberna, every Tuesday is a paella party for just $20 (choose from three different paellas, salad and dessert), while Wednesdays is Taberna Uncorked, a four-course tapas and wine pairing for $35. And watch for the Tapas Revolution, a three-, five- or seven-course chef ’s tasting, coming soon to La Boca. Enjoy the culinary adventure while listening to live music from Flamenco Domingo and others. Santa Feans come out of their winter hibernation for ARTFeast weekend to benefit art in schools with food, wine, fashion and tours of homes, on February 22-24. This year’s 16th annual event highlights a gourmet dinner and live auction, the huge fashion show at the Santa Fe Convention Center and a special event in the Railyard District. The dinner (and dancing!) on February 24 at Four Seasons Rancho Encantado honors sculptor Star York. This is an especially big year for ARTsmart, the sponsoring organization, as it merged with Fine Arts for Children and Teens and received the Pacheco Street Properties (the Pink Church) as a donation from the Thaw Foundation. In 16 years, ARTsmart has raised over $1 million for the cause. More at www.artfeast.com. Another reason to throw back the covers is the return of Restaurant Week in Santa Fe, February 24 – March 3. Indulge in fantastic food at bargain prices, plus daytime demos and tastings. Fifty-plus Santa Fe restaurants offer Sunday-to-Sunday culinary extravaganzas, and several hotels feature Restaurant Week lodging packages. Three-course prix fixe dinners come in four categories: $25 for two for casual-dining restaurants, and $20, $30 or $40 per person at others. Many restaurants offer lunches, too. Visit www.santafe.nmrestaurantweek. com for complete details. Catch the Taos (March 3-10) and Albuquerque (March 1017) versions, too.

| Chef Andrea Clover Kudos to Inn of the Five Graces, too, named one of TripAdvisor.com 2013 Travelers’ Choice Award Winners in the best small hotel category. This heart-of-Santa Fe boutique hotel takes its name form the Tibetan philosophy that we are graced with five senses to experience the splendor of the world. Oh, dear? I feel a getaway coming.

| From the Kelly Jo Kuchar collection Maybe we’ll wait for the extensive remodeling at La Fonda Hotel. Then we’ll see local artist Kelly Jo Kuchar’s handpainted ceramic tile murals in the 170 guest rooms. As proprietress of Kelly Jo Designs, Kuchar has created stylized scenes of New

More “attaboys” to Santa Fe’s Kakawa Chocolate House, named one of the ten most luxurious places in the world to drink hot chocolate by MSN. Not bad when you see the rest of the list, which includes the 109-year-old Angelina in Paris, the 226-year-old Cafe Demel in Vienna and Serendipity 3 (home of Oprah’s favorite frozen hot chocolate). Kakawa, from the Olmec word for chocolate, has thrived under new owner Tony Bennett (no, not that Tony Bennett), who refocused the little “café that could” on historic recipes and a full line of chocolate candies. And while we’re on the topic of new ownership: After ten years, Dionne Christian said goodbye to The Teahouse, on Canyon Road, handing the keys to Rich Freedman and Jake and Sandra Mendel. The trio continues The Teahouse tradition of delicious, innovative food and teas from around the world, blended on site. The outdoor courtyard is a respite from the bustle of Canyon Road, while the cozy inside space is perfect for sipping, noshing and contemplating all that Santa Fe has to offer. Valentine’s Day sees the reopening of the Legal Tender in Lamy, and the return of Chef Michael Gintert to the kitchen of the historic restaurant and saloon (the driving force behind the Lamy Station Café—remember the old restored railroad car?). Chef Michael was recently behind the world-class (and now shuttered) Sunrise Springs Blue Heron restaurant. Located in the old Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad town, the restaurant within The Lamy Railroad & History Museum occupies the site of German immigrant John Pflueger’s 1881 general store. Santa Feans welcome you back! Watch for a new French bistro in the West Alameda Street space that was Aqua Santa and, before that, Noon Whistle. Charles Dale (late of Encantado Resort), plans to open Bouche Bistro by early February. The traditional bistro will seat about 40 now and more later when the patio opens in warmer weather. I love the name (“mouth” en français), love the location and love the idea of a modern take on oldschool French cuisine. And have you seen the simple yet elegantly awesome logo? C’est magnifique! Keep your eyes peeled for a wine bar café at Arroyo Vino. Word has it that Mark Connell (of Max’s fame) will be working the stove. In the meantime, take a class from Connell or the other culinary wizards at the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, like a Valentine’s Day lesson with dinner called Romancing the Stove.

Spice up your valentine with this handson class on aphrodisiac foods with Chef Tanya Story. Or regional African cooking on February 16, an exciting hands-on exploration of the dark continent with Ceci Tadfor, a 20-year Santa Fe caterer from Cameroon. Or just go check out www. santafeculinaryacademy.com.

| Chef Mark Connell Don’t let February pass you by without seeing the exhibition of legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz’s traveling exhibition, Annie Leibovitz: Pilgrimage, which opens at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum on February 15. Unlike her staged and carefully lit portraits made on assignment for magazines and advertising clients, these photos were taken simply because Leibovitz was moved by the subject. And on February 12, experience Leibovitz yourself as she speaks about the images and inspirations for the show at the Lensic. Tickets are at www.lensic.org.

| Annie Liebovitz comes to the Lensic

TAOS Get your Taos recipes on with the new cookbook from SOMOS (The Society of the Muse of the Southwest). Storied Recipes features 84 short true stories with the recipes that flavor them. Featured are longtime Taos residents and SOMOS supporters Natalie Goldberg (author of 12 books, including Writing Down the Bones) and John Nichols (author of 21 books, including The Milagro Beanfield War). All of the of proceeds go to the SOMOS educational programs that support and nurture the literary arts, both written and spoken, honoring cultural diversity in the Southwest. Visit www.somostaos.org. Did your recipe not make it into the SOMOS book? Enter the 30th National Beef Cook-Off® and you could win

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

$25,000 and a trip to D.C. The New Mexico Beef Council wants home cooks from Artesia to Arroyo Seco to submit their favorite recipes in four categories to www. beefcookoff.org. This year’s theme, Making the Most of MyPlate, encourages delicious, healthy recipes from a variety of food groups, including ingredients from three groups: fruit and vegetable, grain products and dairy products. There are regional prizes, too! Deadline is April 15, so get cooking! The Harwood Museum of Art is hosting The Art of Wine, a fundraiser February 1, featuring 40 wineries, including Gruet, Paul Dolan, Vivac and Mathis Wines. Students in Taos High School’s Culinary Arts Program (the beneficiaries) will prepare and serve delectable and artful hors d’oeuvres. Guests will enjoy private, exclusive access to museum and a behindthe-scenes tours of the Harwood’s state-ofthe art collection storage area. More at www. harwoodartmuseum.org. Taos is known as a gateway to amazing fly fishing in Northern New Mexico. That’s why Taos Fly Shop hosts free fly tying round tables at the shop every Saturday in February. You bring your tools, materials and a willingness to share and learn from others; they supply the coffee and donuts. Maybe Taylor Streit will be there (his son Nick runs the shop). Streit’s been guiding fly fishers in Northern New Mexico for 30 years, is a Legendary Guide in the Freshwater Fishing Hall Fame and has written three acclaimed fly fishing books. Nick’s no slouch either—he was on the U.S. Junior Fly Fishing team that placed second in the world competition of 1998. Call 575.751.1312 for details or visit www. taosflyshop.com. Who else let out a squeal when they heard that Taos Pueblo’s Patricia Michaels is on this season of Project Runway? She’s one of 16 contestants and the first Native American to bring her scissors and mad sewing skills to the show. Michaels’ career started at the Institute of American Indian Arts. She later worked in Chicago at the Field Museum, lived in Milan, and developed her own collection to become the first Native American to feature a label at prestigious New York Fashion Week. Based in Taos, Michaels exhibits her work in a number of museums and at fashion weeks in New York and Santa Fe. In the last two years, her innovative designs have garnered top honors at the Santa Fe Indian Market. Go, Patricia!

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Did you see the Inn and Spa at Loretto’s Executive Pastry Chef Andrea Clover compete on Food Network’s Sugar Dome? Clover battled for the $15,000 prize in January. This new food competition series teams artists from different disciplines to create dazzling masterpieces of food art. “Chef Clover is an extremely talented and innovative chef,” said Dana Ortega, Marketing Director at The Inn and Spa at Loretto. “Her creativity and passion ensures that desserts at Luminaria are memorable, making every meal end on a beautifully sweet note.” Trained at Le Cordon Bleu, Clover joined The Inn and Spa at Loretto in 2009. Her award-winning career includes two first-place wins in the annual Chocolate Fantasy Chocolatier Competition. Congrats Chef Clover!

Mexico. Or head to a Nordstrom to purchase one of five exclusive ceramics patterns, or add to the buzz in California wine country about her custom winery collections for such tasting rooms as Viansa, Chimney Rock, Peju and Ferrari-Carano wineries. Or just go online at www.kellyjodesigns.com

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Bravo to Sup Executive Chef Anthony Damiano for preparing a congratulatory lunch for a class at Gonzales Community School as winners of the holiday homeroom challenge to benefit Española Valley Animal Shelter. The school gathered 500 items, including food, toys, leashes and bedding for homeless pets. Chef Damiano offers another round of healthy eating in early February, as a way of promoting both nutrition and awareness of pet overpopulation. Go Chef! Go kids! Go adopt a pet!

| Patricia Michaels on our Nov 2011 cover FEBRUARY 2013

TaosHum s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E photos by LENNY FOSTER

n our regular column, Tania Casselle introduces us to the locals who make Taos Hum. This month we meet two of the most famous voices in town.

Josseph the Starwatcher Some people (naming no names) refuse to plan their day before hearing the forecasts of Taos’s best-loved astrologer, Josseph Rynear—a.k.a. Josseph the Starwatcher—whose silken-voiced predictions have aired daily on KTOA Solar Radio for 35 years. However, when Josseph moved to Taos, he says, “It wasn’t to be an astrologer, it was to be a writer.” (He’s published one novel, The Big Blue Medicine Moon, and has more novels in progress.) His stars changed direction while teaching history in Santa Fe, when he chatted with a student who was an astrologer. “I pooh-poohed it then,” says Josseph, citing his academic background at Stanford. But then the woman asked for his birth date. “She started to tell me things that just blew me away, so I had to discover what that was all about. Within three months I was a full-fledged astrologer.” His reputation for accuracy brings unexpected advantages, beyond fans’ appreciative comments on his Facebook page. “I used to belong to a poker group and some of the players would attribute me with superhuman powers, which came in handy if I was running a bluff.” He aims to amuse, educate, inform and inspire. “I try to make it fun. Some people don’t realize how important astrology is going to become. One way of looking at it is like a gigantic clock––it’s a clock with a history, and it repeats itself.” So what’s in the heavens for 2013? Josseph describes an “incredible trine” relating to the arts. If you’re working on a creative project, use the energy of this year to bring it to fruition. We’re also living in a longer period of “revolutionary influence,” with planet Uranus squared to Pluto. “Revolution, evolution… When evolution doesn’t occur there are revolutions,” observes Josseph. “It’s evolution trying to happen—that’s what creates revolutions, when people refuse to evolve to the next level of understanding. This evolution, some of it will be literally physical but most is from the mind up … new levels of consciousness. The time is now.” Josseph Rynear provides individual astrological readings for clients, and his daily forecasts air at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. on KTAO 101.9 FM, streaming on the web at www.ktaos.com. You can also read horoscopes online at Josseph’s website: www.newmex.com/starwatcher.

Jenny Bird Jenny Bird sings of love, and whoever hears her is sure to stop and listen. Her voice manages to blend gutsy and angelic, and her rendition of “Ave Maria” could convert the devil himself. (He’d succumb joyfully, too.) The singer/songwriter started her career performing in Europe when she lived in Germany and Brussels as a youngster, and her twelve CDs since 1986 span new folk to sacred music––love in the broadest sense. Bird first visited Taos in summer 1978. “Staying in a teepee in Hondo, that was the life for me,” she says. “I earned $4 an hour plastering Earthships.” Taos became home to Bird and her two daughters, who were born and raised there. She’s continued to tour nationally, performing 300 shows in her busiest year, including the Lilith Fair where she took the stage with Sarah McLachlan, the Indigo Girls and Sinead O’Connor, singing together for an audience of 18,000. She’s downscaled the travel now. “Building is easier physically than touring,” she laughs wryly. “I love building stuff. Plastering is a beautiful art form in itself.” Her songwriting is partly inspired by the impulse to heal and make sense of her life situations. “It’s like my own psychological laboratory.” Bird’s new CD, Migration, started out as a travelogue themed around her touring experiences, but while making it she suffered a series of close deaths. “It became about the migration of the soul. I was in an altered state pretty much, and all I could do was work on that record. It was a real solace, going into the cave and creating.” She also takes inspiration from her home on the mesa. “The openness is so important to me. I can see the sun rise and set, the moon rise and set, watch the storms coming in. You get a sense of your really very smallness in the grandness of things. The beauty and quiet of Taos is the fuel source of my music. I write from this place.” Jenny Bird performs with Don Richmond on February 16 at 5 p.m. at Lenny Foster’s Living Light Gallery, 107 Kit Carson Road, Taos. (Foster is Local Flavor’s photographer for this column.) See other show dates and find Bird’s CDs at www.jennybird.com. 10

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A Dash

Passion of

story by GAIL SNYDER

lose your eyes and imagine a voluptuously sumptuous Valentine’s dinner for two. Simple—nothing fussy—yet so unexpectedly alluring it’s a meal fit for the gods. And, coached by innovative chefs effortlessly adept at the language of romance, it was all prepared by you! In celebration of this Day of Love, you’ve stirred up all the ingredients, added a big dash of your own passion, filled your kitchen with sensuously exotic aromas and then bravely wooed your heart’s desire to join you. Who among us mortals wouldn’t absolutely thrill to such an opportunity, served to us by the one we adore? The warmth of the oven wraps you both in its arms, all your senses alert and beginning to hum. A toast To Us and, sinking down together at the table, you feed each other bites of food so sublime your taste buds sing. Appetites soar, sparks fly! Inhibitions disappear, and as you lure each other into a scene of voracious epicurean delight straight out of Tom Jones, you discover doors opening between you that you never even knew were closed. In your own private universe together, an unabashed momentum of intimacy builds with an intensity so strong it must be illegal. Our five will help chefs make it all possible. Here they generously share their favorite recipes for romance, along with their thoughts on the incredible lightness of being each dish will inspire for those who dare to express their yearning—and those who gratefully receive it.

Charles Dale of Bouche “Mussels, when they’re closed,” muses Charles Dale, “have such beautiful, glistening black shells. As they open, they reveal their inner treasure, this soft and tender flesh—what a wonderful mouth feel! As you eat it, it pops a little bit. The chile clearly turns up the heat! In fact, there’s scientific evidence that as it enters the bloodstream, chile has a similar effect on the body as arousal does—like that puffing up of the lips going on. Match this with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or, if available, a Muscadet sur Lie, which is stringent with a lot of body so it’s ideal paired with shellfish. And,” he adds, “you can use the empty shell to gather up the juice at the bottom of the dish. For some people, slurping is a turn-on; for others, it’s a buzzkill.” He laughs mischievously. “This dish is good for a first date, because you can find out a lot about a person when you share it.” Most recently head chef at Encantado, Charles is now opening his own restaurant, the French bistro Bouche, in the former Aqua Santa space. “We want it to look exactly like it was transported here straight from Paris 70 years ago,” he says. “Bouche means ‘mouth’ in French, so it’s appropriate on many levels—word of mouth, food, sensuality. We’re hoping to open by Valentine’s Day.” If so, he’ll offer a special menu featuring a light four-course dinner for two for $69. (Call 505.982.6297 for reservations.)

Black Mussels in White Wine with Red Chile Flakes Black mussels (Prince Edward Island preferred), 1 lb if served as appetizer; 2 lbs if main course ¼ cup dry white wine, preferably Sauvignon Blanc 2 large shallots, sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 1/8 teaspoon chile flakes 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley ½ cup vegetable stock or water Soak the mussels in cold water for 30 minutes. Remove from water, pull off the “beards” or cut them off at the shell with scissors. Refrigerate until ready to use. Add all ingredients except the parsley to a medium stock pot (8-12 quart). Cover and cook over medium high heat for 5 to 7 minutes until all the mussels are just opened. Serve immediately in large bowls, topped with the chopped parsley, along with plenty of good bread to sop up the juice.

Bouche is located at 451 West Alameda Street in Santa Fe. 505.982.6297. Call ahead to confirm that they have opened!

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

A Dash of

Passion

Anne-Laure Ligier of Clafoutis

“My husband made this for me before we were married, when we just started to be together,” says Anne-Laure Ligier of her husband’s recipe for petits flans with cherries. “It was our first Valentine’s Day together. I loved it! This was 25 or so years ago; we were both very young.” She and her husband-to-be, Phillippe, a master baker, were not even 20 at the time they met. “He served me this French-style flan that he made for me in a heart-shaped mold. It was pinkish from the cherries and very cute! When someone makes a dish for you, they put all their love in it, so that’s always special, and this one in particular really surprised me that he would even think of it because, especially back then, Valentine’s Day was not that big in France like it is here. It was just a day for couples, and we had just met not long before. We were both still living with our parents back then, and he served this to me in his parents’ kitchen. We ate it together with two spoons. It was very romantic.” Owners of the Santa Fe French bakery and bistro Clafoutis, the couple inspires customers, by the very pace of the restaurant, to slow down, savor, taste, share. Serving breakfast and lunch, Clafoutis also offers a seductive array of homemade pastries, croissants, beignets and an array of incredibly decadent desserts, all freshly baked. Clafoutis is located at 402 North Guadalupe in Santa Fe. 505.988.1809.

Elvis Bencomo of Pasión Chef Elvis Bencomo is very upfront. “There are no better lovers than Latin lovers!” he asserts with a laugh. Another passionate aficionado of seafood’s inherent sensuality, Elvis explains, “To me, salmon is an easy but phenomenal dish. You feel very special whenever someone fixes it for you, very healthy—not like a pig! This dish when it’s served is the color of the double marinade, really bright red and vibrant.” Perfect for kindling that Valentine’s Day flame. “And the plantains,” he goes on, “everyone loves them! They’re very unique.” Along with the salty, acidic notes of the sweet and spicy marinade’s bacon, the exciting flush of heat in every chile-infused mouthful, the garlic’s aromatic kick (“It’s important to use fresh garlic!” Elvis admonishes), and the smoky Yucatan allure of achiote, this rich and unctuous fish is enhanced by the mangu sauce (mashed plantain) in ways rarely experienced this far north. “Latin cooking allows for flavorful and exciting combinations,” says Elvis. “Throw a little bit of Latin love in there! And this dish is very romantic with a glass of wine, say a Sauvignon Blanc, which is a bit dryer than Chardonnay.” Elvis’s restaurant, Pasión, with its Latin fusion menu, its high energy and bright red accents, charms any day of the week but especially on Valentine’s Day. “We’ll have a special menu that night and salsa dancing to live music by members of Son Como Son from 8 p.m to 10 p.m. We call it our Cuban Love Night!” Pasión is located at 722 Lomas Boulevard NW in Albuquerque. 505.503.7880. www.pasionlatinfusion.com.

Adobo Salmon con Mangu 1 fillet of salmon cut into two 5-oz portions Coat salmon filets in achiote adobo marinade and let sit for 4 hours (Achiote adobo marinade recipe on page 19.)

Petits Flans aux Griottines 4 or 6 molds of your choice (heart-shaped ramekin or muffin tin) 2/3 cups griottines (smalls cherries in alcohol) 2/3 cups whipped cream 3 eggs ¾ cups milk plus a Tablespoon 3 1/3 Tablespoons sugar 1 ½ Tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Butter the molds. Whisk eggs and sugar until the batter froths; add milk and cream. Put half of the cherries into the smalls molds, add the batter and bake 20 minutes. Take out of the oven and put the rest of cherries on top, along with their juice. Let cool. Bon appetit!!!

FEBRUARY 2013

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For the mangu: 2 ripe plantains (should be firm to touch and yellow with black spots on the skin) 3 heads of fresh garlic (must be fresh), chopped fine 1 jalapeño, deseeded and chopped fine 1/2 a medium-sized red onion, chopped fine 2 pieces of cooked bacon, rough chopped 1 teaspoon of salt Add at least ½ inch of oil to a frying pan. When oil is hot, toss in the peeled plantains and brown. Once browned, cut each in 5 equal pieces and place back in frying pan to finish cooking process. Remove when all pieces are equally brown on both sides; put in a bowl. Coat a sauté pan with olive oil and toss in onion, garlic, jalapeño and bacon; season with salt. Put in the bowl with the plantains and mash all ingredients together. Sauté the salmon pieces in a frying pan for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, seasoning with salt. Place the mangu (plantain mash) in 2 molding dishes and place one each in the middle of two plates, removing the molding dish. Place the cooked salmon on top of the molded mangu and garnish with lemon.

Eric Lamalle of Ristra & Azur

Jennifer Hart of The Love Apple

One of Ristra’s most popular Valentine’s menu choices is the soufflé Grand Marnier created by Chef Xavier Grenet. Valentine’s Day, says owner Eric Lamalle, is not the occasion for a large heavy meal. Dessert, especially, should be light fare that two can share. Soufflé, Eric explains, perfectly fills this bill. This one is particularly apropos for lovers, he says, because it is seemingly made only of air, love and a dash of that distinctively seductive citrus and cognac blend. It will hold diners in thrall, Eric says, because it’s “exciting, different,” but never overwhelming, with just the right touch of sweet and satisfyingly silky as it melts in your mouth at the end of a romantic meal. “As it bakes, the kitchen fills with that warm, sweet smell. Cook it at the last minute. It’s special. Watch it carefully! In the oven, it’s building up, building up. It becomes bigger, it develops that delicate, sexy texture. Bring it out with dramatic flair, just before eating it! This light soufflé needs to be eaten right away or it will collapse—it can’t last forever. It’s beautiful,” he concludes, “just the way it is right now!” Ristra’s historic elegance, with its rosy adobe walls, is a perfect venue reflecting its menu, a blend of French- and Southwestern-style cuisines. “We’ll celebrate Valentine’s Day with our regular popular menu choices, including a chocolate soufflé, as well as an array of specials,” Eric promises.

What Jennifer Hart, owner of Taos’ The Love Apple, appreciates most about Valentine’s Day is its sweetness. It’s the opportunity it gives us all, she explains, to “share a dish for two with your partner, enjoy each other’s company and savor the sensual. A time to be together. Valentine’s Day is one of our most popular days,” she goes on. And no wonder! The restaurant’s home is an intimate, 17th-century northern New Mexico chapel. “It’s extraordinarily romantic!” With the open clean space of the hearth, the large twinkling chandelier, candlelight reflecting in the big hand-carved mirror and the chapel’s thick, protective adobe walls, a couple can sit amidst all the other guests and yet feel held in privacy, in the intimacy of the sanctuary’s play of shadow and light. The Love Apple features regional, organic home cooking. “We always do a different special menu every year for Valentine’s Day, based on sensual foods,” Jen says. “One year we served these wonderful warm chocolate crêpes made to order. Every year we feature oysters, chocolate, bacon— romantic things you can share. And we play old bluesy, jazzy music, like “Ain’t No Sunshine When You’re Gone.” Warning: It’s the kind of place where it’s easy to imagine someone being so impassioned by, so turned on to the ambiance, the food, the company— that suddenly he (or she!) would find themselves down on one knee, in the classic marriage proposal pose.

Ristra is located at 548 Aqua Fria Street in Santa Fe. 505.982.8608. www.ristrarestaurant.com.

The Love Apple is located at 803 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte in Taos. 575.751.0050. www.theloveapple.net.

Souffle Grand Marnier de Xavier Grenet 2 cups milk 3 egg yolks ¼ cup flour 1/2 cup sugar 1 oz. Grand Marnier 2 egg yolks to finish 2 cups egg whites, beaten to soft peaks Boil the milk. In a bowl, mix together the egg yolks, sugar and flour. Add the boiled milk; mix well and put the mixture back into the pan and cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes until mixture is thickened. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate until cold.

Quail en Nogada Nogada Sauce (Walnut Crème Fraîche) In Cuisinart or blender, mix ½ cup each créme fraîche and walnuts; puree until smooth. Add 1 cup cream and 3 Tablespoons brandy. Salt to taste. Quail Stuffing Sauté: ¼ pound butter 1 large onion 3 cups apple, peeled and chopped 2 Tablespoons garlic 1Tablespoon cumin 1 teaspoon coriander

Remove chilled pastry cream from refrigerator; add to it 2 more egg yolks and the Grand Marnier. Mix thoroughly, then gently fold in the beaten egg whites with a spatula, always turning in the same direction.

Remove from heat. In a mixing bowl combine sauté with: 6 cups cooked quinoa ¾ cup green chile 2 cups feta cheese 1 cup cilantro 1 teaspoon salt

Fill the ramekins to the top with pastry cream. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes in a 420 to 425 degree oven (8 to 10 minutes for a convection oven).

Fill each quail cavity with stuffing; grill for 5 minutes on each side. Finish in 400 degree oven for 8 minutes with the ½ cup extra quail stuffing. Meanwhile, gently heat nogada sauce on low heat, being careful not to overheat.

Remove from oven, sprinkle the tops of each with some powdered sugar and serve immediately.

To plate, place extra stuffing in bowl, top with quail and nogada sauce. Finish with pomegranate seeds and cilantro sprouts. Serve in bowl garnished with 1 Tablespoon pomegranate seeds and sprinkling of fresh cilantro.

Brush the insides of several ramekins with melted butter, then dust them with granulated sugar. Set these aside.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

Midtown

Bistro

A Welcoming.

“If you showed me photos of the Midtown Bistro and told me it was in Williamsburg or the Pearl District in Portland, I’d believe it. It’s very urban,” said a guest after a visit to this freshly opened restaurant on Santa Fe’s West San Mateo Road, a block off St. Michael’s near Calle Lorca. Owners, Edmund Catanach who is also the general manager and Angel Estrada (who is also the executive chef ), both long-time veterans of the indelible Santacafé, have brought an industrial chic to a neighborhood that’s always been self-assured, if not exactly in the thick of things. It hasn’t been easy street for some restaurants in the neighborhood. The Tree House Pastry Shop and Café moved last year from nearby Lena Street to DeVargas Center. Cloud Cliff Café closed in 2008. Celebrations made a slow start and a quick exit. But the anchors on San Mateo Road––Chocolate Maven and Second Street Brewery––continue to flourish. At St. Michaels and Cerrillos Road, you’ll find the wildly popular Jambo Café, Red Enchilada with its devoted following, and the dependable Cafe Olé. A good taco can always be found at Felipe’s on Llano Street. Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen recently opened on Pacheco Street.

FEBRUARY 2013

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story by JAMES SELBY photos by GAELEN CASEY

“You have to have good timing when you open a restaurant—a welcoming. A little magic.”

—Edmund Catanach

“We looked all over Santa Fe, Eldorado, even Albuquerque,” said Edmund, “but we really wanted to be in this area.” Asked why he and Angel decided to name their restaurant Midtown Bistro, Edmund, who has thick black hair and a Magnum P.I. mustache with a dash of salt, said, “I was born and raised in this town, but we didn’t want a typical Santa Fe name, like La Hacienda. We wanted a name that was easy to remember and descriptive of our location.” To visualize this, Google a map of Santa Fe and you’ll discover that, like Italy, the city has a boot shape. Its toe is defined by the south end intersection of Cerrillos and 599, which looks as if it’s about to kick the Santa Fe Airport. Its heel is where I-25 meets Old Pecos Trail. Where St. Francis empties into 84/285 in the north is the ankle. And the stretch along St. Michael’s is the arch––smack in the middle. Considering the Southside has become a dining destination, and the Plaza is downtown, then these enduring and newly opened restaurants have established an authentic district: Midtown. Angel Estrada, 45, originally from Chihuahua, Mexico, with broad shoulders and the etched features of an Easter Island statue, began his 18year tenure at Santacafé working alongside the now celebrity chef Ming Tsai, eventually taking over as executive chef in 2007. By coincidence, in May of 2012, Angel and Edmund, who had been managing Santa Fe’s Rio Chama Steakhouse by then, both feeling dissatisfied, had left their respective jobs. Angel invited Edmund to lunch one day and suggested they partner in a new restaurant. “I was sure Santacafé would lure Angel back to work,” said Edmund, “but when Angel makes up his mind to do something, he does it.” The new partners saw the space (previously, a women’s gym), realized its potential, signed the lease, and spent nearly six months contributing sweat equity—laying in all the plumbing and electrical work, fitting out the kitchen, tiling and painting. “We did all the labor ourselves, with a couple of friends we hired,” said Angel. “On the night we opened, I took off my construction clothes, put on a chef ’s coat and started cooking.” Set back from the street and sharing ample parking with a strip of commercial buildings, Midtown Bistro is both buffered from traffic and visually enhanced by Ironstone Gardens, a landscape of massive rocks belonging to Burke Denham of Ironstone Gardens, the restaurant’s landlord. Airy and loft-like, the open high-ceilinged room with exposed metal fixtures and eggshell white walls is crisp and clean, with a modern yet warm ambience. “I spent every day for months on the Internet,” Edmund told me, “sourcing kitchen equipment and furnishings, plates and glasses, patio furniture, you name it. We had to be smart with our budget, but we haven’t cut any corners.” The same could be said for the staffing, which includes some of Santa Fe’s finest professionals. Carmalee McGuinnis and Janet Hefner, longtime colleagues of the two partners, stopped by one day last summer to lend a helping hand. Both were offered positions. Carmalee will run the wine program once the beer and wine license is approved. “For the longest time, the gym equipment and a spa chair were piled in the middle of the restaurant,” said Carmalee, between her lunch and dinner shifts. “I started to think it would be part of the décor.”

Edmund Catanach and Angel Estrada A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

She opened a door leading to a handsome pea-graveled patio. Fountains carved from tall blocks of stone, their cascades held frozen on a late afternoon in January, stand sentinel amid the tables canopied by towering trees, dormant limbs wrapped in lights. “It takes some imagination now,” she said, stepping over a patch of snow, “but all this is landscaped with gorgeous native plants. When I saw it in full bloom last summer, I thought it the most beautiful patio in Santa Fe. To sit under the trees, listening to the fountains and the passing train is truly breathtaking.” Carmalee grew up in Lamy, where her father was an engineer for the railroad. “In those days I could sit on my dad’s lap and blow the whistle.” As if on schedule, the Rail Runner Express rumbles along the nearby tracks with a pleasing basso. “Guess you couldn’t do that now,” she mused. “When I write a menu,” said Chef Angel, “I am very interested in the combination of flavors. I will ask the servers, too, what do you think of this or that? To me, color is very important in a dish and I don’t like to repeat the same items on two entrees. You won’t find mash potatoes on every plate.” To look at his New Zealand lamb chops, glazed with a mahogany colored tamarind sauce, a butter yellow corn couscous studded with glistening emerald chard and diced ruby bell pepper, lends credence to his philosophy. Midtown Bistro offers a comfortable blend of local and metropolitan influences. Red chile fries, lemon aioli, pomegranate vinaigrette, habañero-pineapple syrup, and citrus coleslaw brighten classic American bistro lunch offerings, such as burgers (which come in 10 oz or 5 oz portions), pork loin and Reuben sandwiches, Cobb and arugula salads. Portions are ample without being overwhelming, and prices are user friendly. It’s harder to create a small menu than a large one, but Angel manages the task at dinner with a good balance of vegetarian, meat and fish entrees, such as diver scallops served with leek risotto, grilled rib-eye with mashed potatoes, pork chops accompanied by sweet potato puree, or quinoa and black bean pilaf, grilled vegetables and Romesco sauce. “When you come in for brunch,” said Carmalee, “do yourself a favor. Try our version of Eggs Benedict.” Though newly opened, Midtown Bistro conveys an assurance that comes from the collective experience of its owners, staff and family. (Edmund’s wife volunteers in the office, two of his sons work in the dining room, and Angel’s wife cooks on the line.) “It isn’t just what you know,” Edmund said. “You have to be able to listen and evaluate. We want our place to evolve for the community. Undoubtedly, it will,” he reflected. “I make sure I get to every table and talk to guests, ask them how we can make this better. You have to have good timing when you open a restaurant—a welcoming.” He paused and added, “A little magic.” At their grand opening in mid-December, the room was full, and patient diners waited for tables, but the noise level was festive, hushed, even inviting. A couple seated in the middle of the restaurant waved to Edmund. Off he went to offer his welcome. Midtown Bistro is located at 901 West San Mateo Road in Santa Fe. Midtown Bistro’s winter hours are Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Monday. 505.820.3121.

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A Dash of

Passion

#1 in Santa Fe since 1971

Continued from page 14

Adobo Salmon con Mangu For the achiote adobo marinade: (prepare in advance, makes 1½ cups) 2 cloves garlic, roasted ¼ cup lard 4 teaspoons thyme 1 whole clove 2 ½ Tablespoons dried Mexican oregano leaves 1 Tablespoon ground allspice ½ stick cinnamon 1 Tablespoon achiote paste 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 pods New Mexico red chile 1 pod ancho chile ½ cup apple cider vinegar ½ cup water kosher salt to taste pepper to taste To make the marinade, heat ¼ cup lard in a saucepan until hot and add the roasted garlic, thyme, clove, oregano, allspice, cinnamon, achiote, pepper. Cook for 1 minute. Add in red chile and ancho chile to the lard with spices and cook until tender. Let cool; then place in a blender and add apple cider vinegar, water and salt to taste. Blend to a puree. Coat salmon fillets in marinade and let sit for 4 hours.

S LTIE A I C PE SE S U O T H

FILE T FILE ITE T E LET P N-FI I E IP STR BON ORK Y NEW IB EYE R B E RI PRIM DOR ATA EYE EL M RIB E-IN E N O B O N T-BO FOR TW E S HOU TER R O P

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OP L CH A E EV S PRIM B CHOP M A L

African & Caribbean Cuisine Chef-Owner : Ahmed Obo

OOD

F SEA

So what’s the buzz about? Flavor, to put it simply, the combination of spices, meat and veggies, of sweet and tangly, ﬁery are subtle.

- Albuquerque Journal

THANK YOU SANTA FE FOR VOTING FOR US FOR THE SOUPER BOWL!

Come & Get some Jambo Love Reserve your spot at our special Valentine’s Day dinner!

ILET ON F M L SA P ION LED RIM GRIL MBO SH MBINAT JU R CO STE B O KL TEA

28 3-33 8 9 505 a Fe ons: Sant Plaza) i t , . a e v r Av f the Rese gton ck North o n i h s Wa e blo om 150 rtyard, on ng.c i u m r o l l C u e b :30p e 2 f (In th a t m san 30a pm i 11: 5-10:00 y r F s e a n h: Tu All D n-Su Lunc er: Mo ailable Dinn enu Av M Bar

Live Spanish Guitar Weekend Nights me Welco rs! ato Legisl

2010 Cerrillos Road (near Hobby Lobby) Santa Fe (505) 473-1269 www.jambocafe.net Monday–Saturday 11am–9pm Closed Sunday

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

theCandyman

Rand E. Cook and Cindy Cook 20

FEBRUARY 2013

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stor y by BARRY FIELDS photos by GAELEN CASEY

rums, keyboards, tambourines, saxophones and musical accessories crowd the floor, as if jostling for space. A dumbfounding assortment of guitars, from the classic to the funky, lines the walls. Music from a clarinet played by a young boy in a side nook wafts throughout the main showroom, while a couple of young men drink coffee at a round table near the front door. Doors lead to offices and showrooms packed with more equipment. Sunlight from a second story window floods the space. Welcome to The Candyman Strings & Things, where you leave the humdrum world of Santa Fe and plunge into a realm of music and dreams. At 10,000 square feet, the store is a musician’s fantasy land, with some 70 models of acoustic guitars and 80 electric, areas where you can try the instrument that’s been beckoning to you, and rooms for instruction.

”I asked myself last night what my job is here––it’s to inspire young people. When you’re young you look to a mentor, and when you’re grown you look to mentor others. I happen to be in a business young people dig.”

Upcoming Special Dinners A very special prix-fixe dinner is featured each month at Farm & Table. Each course is paired with wine and explores wonderful flavor combinations. Please join us! Seating is limited. Please RSVP by emailing reserve@farmandtablenm.com

Tuesday, February 12 – Taste the History of Chocolate Chef Jaye Wilkinson and her culinary team will create six courses, each including cacao and paired with wine. Our special guest, Dr. Patricia Crown, Distinguished Professor of Anthropology, will briefly speak about her team’s discovery of cacao at Chaco Canyon which made chocolate history all over the world four years ago. 6:00pm | $85/person

Tuesday, March 5 – Farm & Table Birthday Farm & Table turns one! Join us for this very special celebratory dinner. Chef Ka’ainoa Ravey will return to craft an unforgettable dinner with Chef Jaye Wilkinson and her culinary team! 6:00pm | $95/person

April – Beer Dinner information to be announced Farm & Table has been chosen as the Official Restaurant Sponsor of Guts & Glory - an evening with Anthony Bourdain on April 17.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

—Rand E. Cook “We are so blessed to be in such a beautiful building,” says coowner Rand E. (Randy) Cook enthusiastically. “The natural light and wood tones play so well with natural wood instruments. It makes it a remarkable experience when you first walk in the door.” Born and raised in Santa Fe, Cook has worked his entire adult life in The Candyman, which takes its name from an early 20th century character, part of the American landscape, who traveled from one small town to another, providing music, storytelling, and entertainment—not to mention candy (unlike the later associations of the candyman with drugs). The type was memorialized by country blues singer/guitarist Mississippi John Hurt, along with others. The Candyman’s founder, Matthew Schwartzman, was a relocated New Yorker, and, asserts Cook, “He fancied himself as that character. He took on that persona.” Candyman has been on St. Michael’s Drive for so long, few might remember that when it opened its doors in 1969, it was downtown on Water Street and sold counterculture articles in addition to guitars and folk instruments. Cook bought his first instrument, a mouth harp, there as a child. Under Schwartzman’s guidance, the business thrived throughout the 1970’s, expanding into the home audio sector, until the building housing it burned down in 1981. When St. Michael’s Drive was chosen as the business’s new location, it was so far out of the main stopping district that some people predicted the store’s demise. Continued on page 22 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

Ibanez Hollow Body Electric Guitar

FEBRUARY 2013

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Schwartzman foresaw the city’s growth to the south, and The Candyman prospered in a way it never could have downtown, where high rents would have made its bargain prices impossible to maintain. Cook has an oval face, a receding hairline and long hair pulled back in a ponytail. He has the beginnings of a beard—he shaves only two to three times a week––and dresses casually in a plaid flannel shirt. He remembers that he began working at The Candyman as the musical instrument department manager after answering an ad in the paper. “I badgered Matthew until he couldn’t say no. For me it was a dream job.” He eventually advanced to general manager and over a period of 19 years came to know the store intimately. When Schwartzman became so ill he had to sell the business, Cook explains, “I made no bones about there was one buyer and it was me.” He purchased the business with his wife, Cindy, closing on the deal a couple of months after Schwartzman passed away. Cook happily recounts that he met Cindy over the phone 16 years ago, while he was ordering merchandise for the store and she was working in Colorado as a manufacturer’s rep. For five months they got to know each other through long-distance conversations. “The minute we met face to face, we were totally in love,” he says, and she soon moved to Santa Fe. She came with a daughter from a former relationship, and after three years they had a child together. Cindy has a background in marketing, and at first she ran a small business while staying at home to care for the kids. As the new owners, the couple quickly made some changes. The home audio business and CD sales were no longer viable options for local stores competing with Walmart and the Internet, and they liquidated everything but the core instruments, related equipment and sheet music. Their values as parents influenced the directions they took. “A great deal of refocusing was to create a hyper familyfocused business,” says Cook. “We wanted to create an environment we’d want to walk into as parents of young children. I asked myself last night what my job is here––it’s to inspire young people. When you’re young you look to a mentor, and when you’re grown you look to mentor others. I happen to be in a business young people dig.” Based on that philosophy, The Candyman has developed an educational component, offering classes and instruction throughout the year and a rock camp during the summer. Cook credits his wife with the camp idea,

claiming, “I’m the mechanic. She’s the visionary.” He hardly does himself justice with that assessment, but he wants to be sure his wife’s contribution is recognized. He calls the rock camp—a two-week intensive for youth between the ages of eight and 16 years old—“the coolest thing ever.” During the course, the kids form bands and play both covers and original songs, as well as develop marketing materials, including a band logo. They record their songs in a local studio. On the last day they crowd into Hutton Broadcasting (a local company that owns several radio stations), where the CD’s are played on the radio and the camp members are interviewed live. The camp closes with a concert at which all the bands play. “In the last three years we’ve helped over 200 kids and awarded over $20,000 in scholarships,” Cook announces proudly. “In August we graduated our 50th band from the program.” Although most campers are Santa Fe– based, participants come from around the country, and there have even been campers from as far as Holland and Taiwan. Cook’s enthusiasm for The Candyman clearly goes far deeper than having a way to make a living. “Playing an instrument is one of the best therapies,” he claims. “Music contributes to brain development.” (A variety of neuropsychological research studies have demonstrated this is true.) For years, he moonlighted as a bass player in a rock band. Although he no longer plays gigs, he has a small studio at home, where he records his own songs for personal pleasure. Good management, resulting in an expanding customer base, has been part of the story as well. Both Randy and Cindy give heart-felt credit to their amazing staff of 12 employees and 15 contract teachers/camp instructors. They sell handmade guitars, including electric guitars built in Española, and they service everything they sell. The Candyman has received five awards from the National Association of Music Merchants, which has 9,000 store members, including one for their rock schools and camps. They’ve ranked in the top 100 music stores in the country for the last two years. “It’s because of Cindy’s vision and how we want to be perceived in the community,” Cook summarizes. “For New Mexico we’re a bit unique,” he adds with a combination of modesty and boldness. “We want to be an active participant in the betterment of the community. Our goal is simple: we want to change lives.” The Candyman Strings & Things is located at 851 St. Michael’s Drive in Santa Fe. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. 505.983.5906. www. candymanstringsandthings.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

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clients A RTs m a r t / A RTf e a s t Cornerstones Th e E s s e n t i a l Gu i d e Inn & Spa at Loretto JL H M e d i a L o c a l Fl a v o r M us e u m o f N e w M e x i c o Fo u n d a t i o n N e d r a M a t t e u c c i Ga l l e r i e s New Mexico Municipal League S a n t a Fe P r o p e r t i e s Th e S a n t a Fe O p e r a Southwest CARE Center Zacatecas www. in visib le c ity d e s i g n s . c o m

eat yourPeas

story by ERIN BROOKS photos by KITTY LEAKEN

Erin Wade, owner of Vinaigrette and master of all things green, opens a second salad bistro in Albuquerque

an I tell you a secret? I’ve never liked peas—although they seemed to be one of my mom’s favorite dinner selections when I was a kid. I was so desperate to avoid consumption of those scary, bright green orbs (to me, green meant “do not ingest”) that I would sneak handfuls of them to the family dog who waited patiently by my feet underneath the kitchen table. So when I looked over the menu at Erin Wade’s new Vinaigrette Restaurant in Albuquerque, which opened in November, I was surprised to find myself unwittingly attracted to a menu item called “Eat Your Peas”—an entrée salad made of fresh baby lettuces, bits of bacon, savory sautéed white mushrooms, Asiago cheese, tangy vinaigrette dressing and, yes, green peas! A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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eat your Peas

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aybe it was the bright, vivid décor that made me want to eat those green peas: the lime-green banquette stretching across the center of the large white room, with signature Vinaigrette green bar tile and red chairs. Could it have been the potted plants on every table, grasses and colorful flowers and miniature cacti? Or maybe it was the glass of crisp, citrus-floral Macedonian wine. But I laid my childhood fears to rest and ordered the salad. What a fantastic reintroduction to a delightful little vegetable. The creamy peas and savory mushrooms were perfect with the crispy, crunchy lettuces and the tart bite of vinaigrette. With each mouthful I understood more and more why Erin’s salad fever has caught on, first in Santa Fe and now in Albuquerque, and what makes her concept so successful. Vinaigrette is about all things green, “on and off the plate.” The restaurants source as much local and organic produce as possible. The design of the new Albuquerque building includes eco-friendly fabrics, zero-VOC paint and floors made from pine reclaimed in Dixon. Erin, a Harvard graduate, is a true jack-of-all-trades. I can’t think of many restaurant owners who come up with a unique concept, design their own space, create the menu and then actually grow some of the produce required for the restaurant. During the summer, Erin’s ten-acre Los Portales farm provides lettuces, herbs, tomatoes and even eggs from the farm’s chickens. I spoke with Erin about her philosophy of food, the seeds of which were planted when she lived in Milan after college, studying fashion design. “In Italy, it’s not a paradox to eat healthfully and deliciously at the same time,” she says. “They don’t have a problem expecting their food to be both healthy and pleasurable. There’s this unequivocal embrace of food.” This attitude toward food stood out for Erin, who had experienced the love-hate relationship Americans have toward what they eat. “I went to one of the best schools in the country, and pretty much all of my roommates had some weird issue around food. In America it’s this idea of either-or—‘I have to eat healthy and it’s a chore’—and people are on deprivational diets or they’re eating burgers. There’s this real diametric system here.” Vinaigrette embodies the harmony between pleasure and health. “In some restaurants, the healthier options feel like an afterthought,” explains Erin, “whereas our whole purpose is centered around maximizing pleasure and nutrition.” She says more people in America are starting to change the way they think about food and believes the move toward healthy eating, especially the focus on local and organic food, isn’t just a passing trend. “I think it’s more of a shift, a pendulum swinging in the other direction, and we’ve realized the true cost of industrial farming. We are becoming more aware of the cost of fossil fuels and that industrial farming is basically entirely reliant on fossil fuels. People are more aware of the importance of what they put in their mouths and their bodies and how that affects their lives, their energy level, their conscience.” Erin knew her concept was a good one, and she wanted to expand while keeping the same basic menu and wine list. “The concept worked really well in Santa Fe. Our intention is to make healthy eating joyful and fun. I love what we’re doing and people respond to it—it’s good for you, good for the earth. There’s not enough of this type of thing out there.” Although she considered opening a Vinaigrette in California, she felt that a closer location would allow her to build on momentum from the original Vinaigrette without having to start from scratch in a new market. One day, when Erin and a

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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eat your

Peas

friend (who happened to be a commercial real estate broker) were driving through Albuquerque, he pulled over at a vacant building just past the hustle and bustle of downtown, on the fringes of Old Town. Erin instinctively knew when she saw it that this was the spot for the next Vinaigrette. “I immediately had butterflies in my belly when I saw this space. It just felt right.” She was excited to find a location where she could really put her design skills to work. “The building was far from being habitable. It was vacant for a long time, but I love that. It’s my favorite thing to work with—just a shell. There are overlapping design elements with the original Vinaigrette, like the red chairs and butcher block tables, but the space has a different feeling. It’s bigger and more dramatic.” The original restaurant is in an old adobe home and has a cozy feel, while the space in Albuquerque is more modern and open, one large room with high ceilings and lots of windows. “There were these great old metal trusses that were kind of covered up that we exposed, so it gives this cool industrial element. I love the creative process of designing restaurants.” Business in Albuquerque is already booming. On the night of my tryst with the Eat Your Peas salad, Vinaigrette was packed with a varied dinner crowd and a line of folks at the front door: people in business attire just getting off work, couples young and old, groups of women meeting for ladies’ night. The restaurant seats 96, but when the weather warms up two outdoor patios will bring that number up to about 150. This is also when Los Portales will start generating some serious produce (the farm is dormant during the harsh winter months) and Erin plans on contracting with farmers who will grow especially for the restaurant. “The amount of produce we need is huge, so it’s impossible to get it all from the Farmers’ Market. It’s also logistically difficult with a lot of produce coming in constantly, but the benefit is the flavor and taste of this food.” And there’s so much flavor to choose from. Erin’s inspired salads range from salty (the All Kale Caesar! with lemon-anchovy vinaigrette, Parmesan and Marcona almonds) to sweet (the Arugula Duck salad with balsamicroasted pears and hibiscus vinaigrette) and everything in between. You can add proteins like chicken or fish to any salad if your appetite is fierce, and if you want to indulge, try the Cuban Torta (a sandwich of mustard-roasted pork shoulder and green chile ham with red onions, Swiss, avocado, mayo, chipotle and sweet relish). Wine is an important part of the pleasure of cuisine, and Erin’s list focuses on wines that are ideal for salad-centric fare—simple, clean, refreshing whites and light reds. “All our wines are very salad friendly, especially the zippy whites with low oak and bracing acidity that stand up to a vinaigrette dressing. Our wines are like our food, unadulterated and more of an expression of terroir and varietal. Not a lot of manipulation, just pure and simple, fresh and light.” Erin points out that salads are emblematic of what we want from food, which is both flavor and nutrients. She says, “Food has this real potential to bring happiness to people’s daily lives. Eating better is easier if it comes from a place of positivity and joy.” Erin’s philosophy is inherent in the flavor of the food and the way it makes you feel. This isn’t rabbit food—I was stuffed after my salad—but it isn’t the kind of heavy meal that makes you feel weighed down and guilty afterward. At Vinaigrette, there’s no need to smuggle in your family dog to wait under the table for those handfuls of peas. You’ll want to eat every last one. Vinaigrette is located at 1828 Central SW in Albuquerque. It’s open seven days a week, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. 505.842.5507. www.vinaigretteonline.com.

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In the kitchen with General Manager Randy Ropek

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O N L I N E AT W W W. H O L I K D E S I G N . C O M A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

Restaurant Week will be held in three New Mexico cities in 2013 over the course of three weeks.

s t o r y b y M E LY S S A H O L I K

ew Mexico Restaurant Week kicks off its fourth year later this month in Santa Fe and continues into March in Taos before the three-week event wraps up in Albuquerque on March 17. For 21 days, participating restaurants are offering threecourse, prix fixe dinners and/or lunches for a price that is well below normal.

Joe Baum and Tim Zagat initiated the first Restaurant Week in New York City in 1992 as a gesture of goodwill to reporters who were in town to cover the Democratic National Convention. Since then, the idea has spread to cities and states nationwide. New Mexico’s participation puts us alongside some of the country’s top dining destinations: New York, L.A., D.C., Chicago, Seattle and Philadelphia, to name a few. After seeing how successful Restaurant Week was in her native San Diego, Wings Media founder Michele Ostrove decided to give it a try here in Santa Fe. Since its inception in 2010, New Mexico Restaurant Week has continued to grow and now has over 80 restaurants participating in three cities: Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Taos. Below, we offer a primer for the uninitiated so you can make the most of this fleeting culinary delight. Ladies and gentlemen, grab your forks, start your engines and get ready for Restaurant Week 2013!

PLAN FOR CROWDS

Restaurant Week can mean larger crowds at your favorite restaurants, even mid-week when it might ordinarily be slow. Restaurant Week enthusiast and devoted diner Shalimar Krebs confirms that planning ahead is a necessity, especially on the weekends. “Last year there was a snowstorm,” he recalls, “and Andiamo was still packed.” He recommends using Open Table (www.opentable.com), an online reservation system that lets you earn rewards for making reservations and dining out. Some of the most popular restaurants may be booked well in advance, so plan ahead by making reservations if possible, and don’t create unnecessary stress by trying to squeeze in a quick bite. Leave yourself ample time to relax and enjoy your meal.

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Specific dates for each city are:

Santa Fe

February 24-March 3

See a list of participating restaurants at santafe.nmrestaurantweek.com

Taos

March 3-10

See a list of participating restaurants at taos.nmrestaurantweek.com

Albuquerque March 10-17

See a list of participating restaurants at albuquerque.nmrestaurantweek.com

INDULGE YOUR CURIOSITY

Maybe you’ve been curious about a new sushi spot or hankering to try African cuisine, but you haven’t had the chance just yet. This is the time to get out there and do it! Restaurants are showcasing their best dishes and looking to attract new and returning customers, so they’re aiming to impress you. “We really urge restaurants to ‘put their best food forward,’ as the idea is to attract new diners … who will fall in love and hopefully return again and again,” says Ostrove. So take advantage. These specials are just that—special. This is the week to try something wild, something you’re not sure you like or something you’ve always been curious about, because you might not have another chance. Additionally, many diners use Restaurant Week as an opportunity to testdrive pricier establishments. While you may be reluctant to drop a bunch of cash at an untried restaurant, Restaurant Week lets you sample the food at an affordable price and discover whether or not it lives up to its extravagant price tag. “It’s our chance to afford a four-course meal at a place we’ve never tried,” says Krebs, “and find out, ‘Wow, it really is worth it.’”

HIT YOUR GO-TO FAVES

Amidst the excitement of new experiences, Restaurant Week can also be a great excuse to splurge on dining out more often than you might ordinarily. It’s like buying high-end retail items on sale: you’ve just got to take advantage of the lower prices. And even at a restaurant you visit regularly, you’re likely to be wowed by the Restaurant Week offerings. The event seems to encourage chefs to stretch their creativity, says Krebs. “You really get to appreciate the chef and what he or she is capable of.”

“Plus, it’s a great date night!” adds Krebs’ wife, Tammy McLellan, “and it’s a fun way to support local restaurants and eat local foods.”

DON’T SKIMP ON THE TIP

Your meals might be discounted, but the service isn’t. Wait staff are working just as hard as they would during any other week of the year (and often harder), so they should be compensated accordingly. If you are pleased with the service, show your appreciation with a generous tip, above and beyond the usual 1520% for a job well done. Waiting tables isn’t easy, and these folks are working hard. Show them some love.

WORK IN SOME LUNCHES

Got too many places to try? Can’t fit it all in one week? Consider adding some lunches to your Restaurant Week plan, and you can hit even more restaurants without stretching the limits of your stomach. Lunch is a meal that many office workers eat at restaurants anyway, so why not hit two birds with one stone by dining at a Restaurant Week participant? You can sate your midday hunger and cross a “must try” restaurant off your list in one fell swoop. (Bonus multi-tasking points if you can schedule a lunch meeting out!)

GET FOODUCATED

Restaurant Week is more than just discounted dining. There are classes, tastings and demos all week long. This year, Ayame Fukada of Shohko Cafe is once again offering her popular “ABCs of Sake” class, and a multi-day bartender series is planned for Santa Fe, with bartenders from several participating restaurants offering mixology classes. A few select chefs are also teaching participants how to make their specialty dishes. (In the past, they’ve done everything from tiramisu to tableside Caesar salad.) This year’s lineup includes Palace chef, Ryan Gabel, who is doing a demo of his apple-dusted rack of lamb with a pink peppercorn–Pernod sauce. He’s showing how to “French” a rack, and every class participant gets a rib of lamb and a taste of wine. That’s just a sampling of the events that are rounding out the Restaurant Week schedule. (See their website for full listings.)

PUSH YOUR (CITY) LIMITS

Whether you live in Santa Fe, Albuquerque or Taos, New Mexico Restaurant Week offers a plethora of opportunities to get out there and explore local eateries. But there’s no need to limit yourself to your home turf; take a road trip to your neighboring cities and expand your gastronomic horizons even farther. Local Flavor is featuring continuing coverage of Restaurant Week events, including interviews with chefs, updates on classes, weekly highlights and more. Visit www.localflavormagazine.com, like us on Facebook or follow us on twitter to catch all the latest news. For complete details on participating restaurants, menus and events listings, go to www.nmrestaurantweek.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

Apple Mountain

Music

story by GORDON BUNKER photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

way from the malls and cavernous big box stores is Apple Mountain Music, a place where, if you’re willing to be adventurous and get a bit off the beaten path, you’ll find special rewards, whether you’re a folk music enthusiast or not. The afternoon I stop by the shop, a Bichon Frise by the name of Tucker greets me at the door. He belongs to Apple Mountain Music’s owner, Debra Fortess, and he’s been enjoying the sun that pours in the front windows of this cozy place. After giving Tucker a scratch, I look around and am dazzled by the instruments: their sensuous shapes, their beautiful wood finishes, their glistening strings. I feel like an impulsive kid. I want to play each and every one of them and find out what kinds of sounds they make.

Fifteen years ago Debra’s venturesome spirit brought her to Apple Mountain Music to buy a harmonica for her husband. “I spotted the harps, strummed one and fell in love. I just had to play it,” says Debra. So often this is the way it is with love. You’re not particularly looking for it, and bang, there it is—no stopping it. The Albuquerque native never did say whether or not she bought a harmonica. “Seven years ago,” she explains, “the small manufacturing company I worked for as comptroller was sold and moved to Wisconsin. I had been taking harp lessons and just loved this store,” she says referring to Apple Mountain Music. “I had no experience in retail, but when I found myself without a job, I approached the owner.” A deal was struck and Debra bought the place. “It’s very rewarding to watch someone come in and make that discovery,” she says, referring to the type of discovery she made with the harp. I tell Debra whenever I hear the bagpipes, I am profoundly moved, sometimes to tears. She concurs. “It happens all the time. Someone will come in and hear an instrument, even for the first time, and you can see it in them. It touches something very deep, primal.” Debra gives me a tour of the shop. A few of the instruments I’m familiar with, but many of them are complete mysteries. She plays a few notes on one I don’t recognize, which turns out to be a bowed psaltery. That such sweet, rich notes sing into the air from this odd triangular sound box with strings amazes me. It’s like magic! There are treasures everywhere. “My intention for the store is to capture more [of the variety] you don’t find in mainstream music stores,” says Debra. Ukuleles, fiddles, drums, flutes, dulcimers, whistles, bells, instruments of all descriptions. The list goes on, even to washboards … and of course there are harps. I spot the kazoos and boast that I was once quite proficient. Debra laughs. “That one’s pretty easy.” The instruments originate from all over the world, and some go back a long time. Debra picks up a small, bulbous whistle of glazed ceramic. “The ocarina 32

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Owner Debra Fortess

is perhaps the oldest instrument, first made of mud by ancient peoples. Kids love them.” As we wander around the store, customers come in. Everyone tries an instrument and then another, and before I know it, we are surrounded by sounds—some sweet, some droning. Taps, rings, hoots, whistles and thumps reverberate throughout the space. This is a place where it’s impossible to keep your hands in your pockets. “You can take any one of these instruments as far as you want to go,” says Debra. “Folk instruments are designed to be played simply, but they don’t have to be played in a traditional way.” However you approach them, it’s clear they are fun. Debra’s assistant Danielle is a classically trained musician with a master’s degree in the flute. She is helping customers who, more often than not, get talking with each other, saying hello, sharing stories and enthusiasm. “My customers have a strong love for this music,” says Debra, noting that some of them “would rather go without food than music. It’s really that important to them.” Albuquerque has strong Irish, Celtic and Scottish communities, and much of what Apple Mountain Music does centers around folk music from the related countries. “It’s not just the store,” Debra adds. “It’s the community involved with it.” On that note, she shows me the store’s instruction/performance space. There is a busy calendar of performances and classes. “UNM Adult Education has classes here,” says Debra, who collaborates with independent instructors. “I refer people to them, they refer people to me.” Check the store’s online calendar for regular house concerts featuring local musicians. “We have some truly world-class folk musicians here in Albuquerque,” says Debra. “Some know literally hundreds of tunes, and they take great pride in this. It’s a fascinating culture.” Debra fills me in on additional local folk performance. For exmaple, Albuquerque’s Page One Bookstore has regular Irish folk music sessions, and the Rio Grande Valley Celtic Festival (May 18) features lots of bagpiping. This year’s ZoukFest (June 5-9), founded by Roger Landes, will be held at the Santa Fe University of Art and Design. Debra’s eyes twinkle when she talks about her people. “We have a strong, loyal community attached.” Obviously this matters deeply to her. While it’s possible to buy just about everything, including folk instruments, online and maybe save a dollar, what we gain by supporting small shops like Debra’s are relationships with other people sharing our interests in the community. Here you’ll find thoughtful, expert help and connections to the folk music scene. This is where the store shines. And you have to admit, it’s pretty handy to have a local shop around the corner when you need a string for your bouzouki and an extra twenty-five dollars for overnight shipping A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

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somehow doesn’t seem reasonable. “It’s a symbiotic relationship. We take care of each other,” she says. As we talk, the phone rings and customers continue to come and go. The place has a vibrant energy to it. It is the season of love, and I have fallen in love with the bagpipes … and the dulcimer and the psaltery. I can picture a strapping redhaired lad and his comely lass perched in a sunny spot on a grassy bluff overlooking a quaint fishing village. Add a vast sweep of ocean for the backdrop. He is wooing her with a tune on the Irish whistle, playing his charms and winning her heart. They are smitten; they embrace. The passion, the romance! Not so fast there, bucko! “Irish music is always passionate. But romantic?” Debra laughs and again with that twinkle adds, “The Irish are passionate about everything.” She reflects on this for a moment. “Folk music encompasses life in general, which of course includes romance. But we fit more with St. Patty’s Day.” St. Valentine, on the other hand, was Roman. The folk music of Italy does have ties to the Celtic traditions, but if ever there was a culture of romance, Italian would be it. So it’s easy to envision a young Latin beauty blushing under an olive tree, rapt with desire as her lover plays his … organetto. The bright yellow and red sign out front makes Apple Mountain Music easy to find. Stop by, wander around and be prepared to be inspired, romantically or otherwise. Apple Mountain Music is at 10301 Comanche NE in Albuquerque. It is open Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Open Sunday and Monday by appointment only. 505.237.2048. www.applemtnmusic.com.

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$50 per person includes a vote for your favorite dessert & cookie jar! D E S S E RT • H O R S D ’ O E U V R E S • E NT E RTA I N M E NT

Tickets: 505.343.1040 • CKalbfell@gs-nmtrails.org PA RT I C I PAT I N G

303 Romero St NW, Suite 124 Old Town Albuquerque, NM 87104 (505) 242-3257 • redfeathershop.com

R E S T UA R A N T S :

S P O N S O R S : C E N T U RY B A N K • C O R O N A D O PA I N T A N D D E C O R AT I N G G UA DA LU P E C R E D I T U N I O N • I N N A N D S PA AT L O R E T T O • M AY F L OW E R N E W M E X I C O B A N K & T R U S T • PAY DAY I N C • P R U D E N T I A L TAO S R E A L E S TAT E R E VO / S M I T H N M I N J U RY L AW Y E R S • R E S O RT P R O P E RT I E S O F A N G E L F I R E S H E LT O N J E W E L E R S • S U M M I T FO O D S E RV I C E S M A N A G E M E N T

Life is good ...

Pacheco Park is an office and retail park, home to some of Santa Fe’s premier businesses. Santa Fe Modern Home Santa Fe By Design Annie O’Carroll Accessory Annex Victoria Price FOUR Form + Function Dragon Rising - Yoga Studio Ritual Hair Skin & Nails Momentum Physical Therapy TKO Advertising Local Flavor Floorscapes Design Connection New Water Innovations United Stoneworks Trattel Court Reporting Tierra Concepts, Inc. D Maahs Construction Southwest Spanish Craftsmen Ernest Thompson Furniture

pets

make it better.

NOW FEATURING A BRAND NEW RESTAURANT and CAFE Opening Soon!

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen Call Us to View Spaces •Cutting Edge Design •Flexible Floor Plans •Variety of Spaces Avail.

Santa Fe Animal Shelter. Adopt. Volunteer. Love. 983-4309 ext. 610

WWW.PACHECOPARK.COM 1512 Pacheco Street . Suite D206 . Santa Fe . New Mexico . 87505 Contact: Eric Faust | Eric@TierraConceptsSantaFe.com | 505.780.1159

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

magazine.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

FEBRUARY 2013

0113 feb iota ad.pdf

Tantalizing February Treatments

1/24/13

4:25 PM

ROMANCE BY CANDLELIGHT

The Nidah Spa is showing the love this February by unwrapping a myriad of romantic spa treatments guaranteed to make that special someone swoon! Nidah Spa will also toss in a rose quartz keepsake heart when treatments are purchased.

Anasazi Restaurant Valentine's Dinner C

CMY

Special three-course prix ďŹ xe menu $75 per person February 14 Live entertainment with guitarist Roberto Cappochi *Menu also available Friday & Saturday, Feb. 15-16

Inquire about special room rates at the hotel

Locals enjoy 15% savings on any regular menu item treatments.

Reservations recommended. Please call 505.995.4535. Located at Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco Street EldoradoHotel.com

Gift Certificates Available

FEBRUARY 2013

magazine.com

113 Washington Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-3030 innof theanasazi.com

LAURA SHEPPHERD ATELIER

Proud to be the ﬁrst “Honorary ARTfeast Fashion Celebrity”

ebero.artlab

supporting the visual arts in Santa Fe Public Schools

photosantagto.com

graphic.design web.development internet.marketing

10% of all Feb 2013 sales go to ARTsmart

505.428.8187 eberosan@gmail.com

Hey, Albuquerque, have breakfast with localflavor! Find us at these local favorites...

65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com like us

Celebrate LOVE in 19 Languages this

Valentine’s Day

Annapurna Daily Grind Donut Mart Downtown Java Joe’s Flying Star Friends Café Frontier

at The Compound Restaurant with Mark Kiffin, James Beard Award-Winner Best Chef of the Southwest

Green Café Grove Market Café Range Café Satellite Coffee Sophia’s Place Winning Coffee

contact Leslie Davis at 505.933.1345 or leslie@localflavomagazine.com

Reservations 982.4353

653 Canyon Road

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

compoundrestaurant.com

FEBRUARY 2013

ARTsmart presents the 16th Annual

™

Santa Fe Gr

eat

Ti m

e for ry a u a C re a t i v r b e Cause – Fe

24 2 2

13 0 2

Join us for a weekend of fine ART, FOOD, WINE, FASHION & HOMES benefiting ART programs for Santa Fe’s youth Friday February 22 Fashion Show & Luncheon 11:30 am – 2 pm, Convention Center, $100

Edible Art Tour 5 – 8 pm, Downtown & Canyon Road, $35

Feast or Famine 8 pm, Ore House at Milagro $15 or free admission with EAT ticket

Saturday February 23 Art of Home Tour 12 – 4 pm, free admission

Gourmet Dinner & Auction 6 pm, Four Seasons Rancho Encantado Resort, $175

Sunday February 24

Purchase Tickets at artfeast.com today! 505.603.4643, info@artfeast.com and at the ARTsmart office, 102 E. Water Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501

Thanks to all Donors, Grantors and the following Underwriters: Mary & Robert Harbour; Deborah J. Trouw, CFP; New Mexico Tourism Department: newmexico.org and...

Artists’ Champagne Brunch & Auction 12 – 2 pm, Hotel Santa Fe, $75

Art of Home Tour

12 – 4 pm, free admission

ARTsmart ensures that Santa Fe and New Mexico youth have the opportunity to explore, experience, and engage in the visual arts, a critical component of every student’s education. ARTsmart is FACT. artFACT coming in 2013: www.artfactnewmexico.com