A TASTE OF LIFE IN NEW MEXICO AUGUST 2015
JILL SCOTT MOMADAY
Return to Rainy Mountain
RESTAURANT MARTÍN
Making of a Cookbook SUMMERTIME IN CORRALES THE ART OF THE COMPOUND
SANTA FE | ALBUQUERQUE | TAOS
WE’RE JUST TAKING OFF. US Foods is set to re-launch as an even stronger force in the foodservice industry. And
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four great summer exhibits
upstairs galleries
on the mezzanine
Painting the Divine: Images of Mary in the New World
Setting the Standard: The Fred Harvey Company and Its Legacy
Exquisite Spanish colonial paintings reveal the power of faith so far from home.
Who tamed the Wild West? A British entrepreneur and the Harvey Girls, one linen napkin at a time.
Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography Amazing images—historic and contemporary— made with a centuries-old technology.
Fading Memories: Echoes of the Civil War Explore New Mexico’s role in the war and how we remembered, then and now.
Let’s Have a Beer!
What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not....it’s all in the buzz!
Local brewers top off summer with some new favorites.
INSIDE:
The Buzz
by Kelly Koepke 10
by Melyssa Holik 36
Jill Scott Momaday by Gail Snyder 22
Still Hungry?
On September 10, The New Mexico Women in the Arts honors Jill Scott Momaday with “Weaving Legend, Legacy and Landscape Through Filmmaking.” Writer Gail Snyder visits with Jill as she recounts the story of her own unique journey in creating the feature-length documentary, The Return to Rainy Mountain.
We close our August issue with a stroll through the sumptuous gardens of The Compound with Chef Mark Kiffin.
by Caitlin Richards 42
The Book, the Chef, His Wife and their Cover by James Selby 16
In tribute to author, wit and bon vivant, Bill Jamison, we bring you the extraordinary story of the making of The Restaurant Martin Cookbook.
The Rail Yards Market in the Que by Gordon Bunker 27
Every Sunday, the South Valley Barelas neighborhood comes alive with the most vibrant market in town.
Now That’s Italian! by Philip de Give 40
Writer Philip de Give conferred with two of his favorite conoscitores of Italian wine to get their top picks—Daniela Bouneau of Torino’s at Home and Tasha Zonski-Armijo of Jubilation.
Summer in Corrales
42 Photo: Gabriella Marks
by Neala McCarten 32
Photo: Doug Crawford
Photo: Sean Poitras
The perfect destination on a lazy summer day—the quiet little village of Corrales.
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ON OUR COVER: Jill Scott Momaday
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THE SHOP BREAKFAST AND LUNCH Locally owned cafe dedicated to serving locally sourced, organic foods that are seasonally inspired.
2933 Monte Vista NE 87106 theshopbreakfastandlunch.com • @theshopbreakfastandlunch Student and teacher discount with valid ID
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
American Bistro & Wine Bar Locally Owned
Locally Sourced
Hand Picked Wines
Craft Beers on Tap
Happy Hour
Live Music
Validated Parking
Reservations
AUGUST 2015 PUBLISHERS Patty & Peter Karlovitz
EDITOR Patty Karlovitz
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
Hours of Operation
Michelle Moreland
(Lunch and Dinner)
Monday - Thursday : 11:30am - 9:00pm Friday - Saturday : 11:30am - 10:30pm
ART DIRECTOR Jasmine Quinsier
109 Gold Ave SW (505) 244-3344 Albuquerque, NM 87102 www.soulandvine.com
WEB EDITOR Melyssa Holik
COPY EDITOR Mia Rose Poris Enjoying a dinner visit with my friend Meeri who was here representing her Massai village at the Folk Art Market.
PREPRESS Scott Edwards
My beautiful granddaughter Baylie is visiting with us this summer. Baylie was a FACT student and an ArtSmart painted plate winner--now she’s driving and working her first restaurant job. Yep, am a proud Gramma.
AD DESIGN Alex Hanna
ADVERTI S I NG SANTA FE Lianne Aponte 629.6544 Kate Collins 470.6012
ALBUQUERQUE Sheridan Johnson 917.975.4732
New! Pizzeria & Trattoria da Lino New Italian country cuisine made w/freshest available local ingredients Open for dinner 4pm–10pm – 7 days a week
Authentic wood oven pizzas w/gluten-free available. Enjoy an extensive selection of wine and beer on our patio.
204 N. Guadalupe Street 505-982-8474 PizzeriaDaLino.com
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COVER PHOTO Kitty Leaken
WRITERS Gordon Bunker Philip de Give Melyssa Holik Neala Schwartzberg McCarten Caitlin Richards James Selby Gail Snyder
Taking part in the 48 Hour Film Festival in Albuquerque with Eyemagine Productions!
PHOTOGRAPHERS Doug Crawford Chad Gruber Kitty Leaken Gabriella Marks Sean Poitras Kate Russell
223 North Guadalupe #442 Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 | www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above address.
© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. Local Flavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
changes in your life? Make sure you’re covered at beWellnm.com.
New Piano Lounge and Bar Menu Wednesday–Sunday: starts @7pm Osteria cares: Chef’s selection of fresh Farmer’s Market vegetables. We use hormone & steroid free meats and wild caught fish! For Reservations call: 505-986-5858 58 S. Federal Place • Santa Fe • osteriadassisi.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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LETTER:
The stunningly beautiful and accomplished Jill Scott Momaday graces our August cover. Jill is a writer, actor and documentary filmmaker whose personal life and ancestry is deeply woven into the fabric of New Mexico. She is the daughter of N. Scott Momaday the Pulitzer Prize-winning author and poet. On September 10, The
TONY MALMED JEWELRY ART
108 Don Gaspar • Santa Fe 505-988-9558 • info@spiritoftheearth.com
New Mexico Women in the Arts honors Jill at the gala, “Jill Scott Momaday: Weaving Legend, Legacy and Landscape Through Filmmaking.” Local Flavor writer, Gail Snyder, visited with Jill as she recounted the story of her own unique journey in creating the documentary The Return to Rainy Mountain. It is a treasure. Also in this issue is a story with the witty title The Book, the Chef, His Wife and Their Cover. It’s the account of two couples: the James Beard Award-winning authors, Bill and Cheryl Jamison, and celebrated Chef Martín Rios and his wife Jennifer, who together crafted an extraordinary cookbook. You will value the recipes, but you will cherish the story behind the crafting of the book. Another legendary chef of Santa Fe, Mark Kiffin, celebrated his 15th anniversary at The Compound this summer. He marked the event by putting even more of his heart and soul into this wonderful property and installed artwork by Allan Houser and Dan Namingha in the gardens. If the gardens were one of your favorite spaces before, wait until you see them now. And ah, yes, we also managed to get the recipes of three of his new summer appetizers—artistry from the chef. And it’s high time the rest of the state heard about the Rail Yards Market in Albuquerque. Every Sunday, the old industrial neighborhood of Barelas absolutely rocks with the excitement of the Market. We’ve brought you the story and the images, but you simply must experience it for yourself. And if that’s a little too eclectic and electric for you, try a summertime drive through the sleepy little village of Corrales—we have everything you need to know to explore this gem. Don’t miss our list of summer beers from your favorite local brewers, Italian wines from two local conoscitores and so much more. Now, no distractions. Just sit back and savor the Flavor.
LOS RIOSRAFTING
RIVER RUNNERS
losriosriverrunners.com
Rio Grande & Chama Adventures 575-776-8854
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An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines & sophisticated tapas-style cuisine will transport you to Old Spain...
The Cellar With the best local microbrews on tap! The Cellar Tapas Beer & Wine 1025 Lomas Blvd NW
Albuquerque
505.242.3117
Opening Late Summer
Drink · Dine · Unwind 3–10 PM, 7 days a week
In the Heart of Santa Fe 5 0 5 - 9 8 2 - 5 9 5 2 • W W W. S A N TA F E S AG E I N N .CO M • 7 2 5 C E R R I L LO S R OA D • S A N TA F E , N M 8 7 5 0 5
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the BUZZ:
age children and teens. The owners, Robert Montoya and Dawn Malone, ALBUQUERQUE cut their teeth running Downtown’s former Amped Performance Center. We’re hearing great buzz about Now the couple will teach guitar, bass, The Cellar, Gabriel Holguin’s vocals, keyboards and drums, and will tapas joint on Lomas near combine weekly private music lessons 11th in Downtown. The firstand group band rehearsals to prepare time restaurateur (who started students (adults included) to take the washing dishes and managing stage in front of live audiences in an restaurants in his El Paso authentic concert setting. Kids who hometown) wanted an upscale study music do better in all other Spanish-style vibe, drawing academic subjects, and there’s plenty inspiration from restaurants of time to get yours enrolled. Visit he experienced while in the albuquerque.schoolofrock.com for military. Pricing for the small details. plates (shrimp, paella, figs and pork, calamari) are $7-$12, so it won’t break anyone’s budget. Beer and wine are served, too. We hear the fried avocado is life-changing. The openkitchen allows you to study the cooks. Go to thecellartapas. com for more about the menu (including tortas and larger plates), hours, etc.
Hopheads head to the 8th Annual Albuquerque Hopfest Xtreme Beer Fest on August 29 at Isleta Resort & Casino. New Mexico’s biggest beer festival is going to “Xtremes” with 70 breweries (just about every local brewery will be there, plus lots of out of towners), an Xtreme BMX Stage, Xtreme VIP Room, Xtra Hoppy Hour, acrobats, three music stages, seven bands, vendors, games and more. Head to albuquerquehopfest.com for more information. Macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food. Now you can go beyond the blue Kraft box at The Macaroni & Cheese Festival benefiting New Mexico Cancer Center Foundation, sponsored by American General Media and St. Clair Winery-Bistro. Saturday, August 22, at the Albuquerque International Balloon Museum, gourmet mac and cheese gets its day, and you can vote for your favorite recipe. The top three offerings from the likes of Gold Street Caffe, Soul and Vine, La Cumbre Brewing Company and Santa Fe Brewing Company vie for prizes and a trophy. This 21-and-over event includes games, local vendors and sweets. Bring your lawn chairs or blankets and eat, all to benefit a good cause. Details at themacandcheesefest.com Drumroll please! The School of Rock Albuquerque is open and offering music lessons and stage performance opportunities for school10
AUGUST 2015
| School of Rock Chatter’s got a special performance scheduled for Saturday, September 5, at the top of the Acropolis. No, not the ancient citadel high above Athens, Greece, but the city’s parking structure at 220 Copper NW, downtown, which offers spectacular views of Albuquerque. Most people in Albuquerque have probably never parked there or even ventured up to the top. Concertgoers will experience three different post-modern pieces overlooking the heart of the city from a unique perspective. The first two works are for “open instrumentation” and require some degree of controlled improvisation. The third work mixes the music of Arnold Schoenberg with cartoon music, creating an original and exciting composition. A postconcert reception on the roof of the Sunrise Banque Lofts will be catered by Soul and Vine. Tickets for concert and reception can be bought online at chatterabq.org/product/acropolis, and are sure to sell out. Heard of the Princess and Pirate Waterslide Picnic? It’s the largest collection of inflatable water slides, and comes to Balloon Fiesta Park August 29 and 30, featuring the world’s tallest inflatable slide. Not just for kids, either! Music, games, food trucks, ice cream and activities complete the party. Bring your own picnic (no glass, alcohol or pets), slide, dance and play. All proceeds benefit the Rio Grande Down Syndrome Network and Down Syndrome research. Visit princessandpiratepicnic. com for details on admission, which includes unlimited access to all water slides and attractions. Parking is free. magazine.com
Albuquerque Little Theatre opens its 86th season with Arsenic and Old Lace, the story of the Brewster family, composed of insane homicidal maniacs. The hero, Mortimer Brewster, is a drama critic who must deal with his crazy family and local police in Brooklyn, NY, as he debates whether to go through with his recent promise to marry the woman he loves. Though the play has virtually been a staple of live theatre since 1941, more people may be familiar with the popular 1944 film version starring Cary Grant, Josephine Hull and Peter Lorre. The play runs August 28-September 13. Tickets at 505.242.4750.
SANTA FE Santa Fe Sage Inn & Suites debuts its full-service bar, Derailed at The Sage, in late August. Derailed brings back together Sage GM Jeff Mahan and Chef John Bobrick, who opened the Inn of the Anasazi together in 1991. Bobrick led the kitchen of Comme Chez Vous, worked alongside Mark Miller at Coyote Café, and has served stints at both Bishop’s Lodge and La Posada de Santa Fe. Derailed features American comfort food and stylish fusion cuisine, and will honor local influences from the neighboring Farmers Market. Bobrick is also bringing back his renowned Tortilla Soup, a multiaward winner of the Souper Bowl. The recently renovated bar features a warm and appealing industrial railyard motif featuring iron and wood, with a fireplace, outdoor portal and patio and a large stone water feature. The bar, under the leadership of Santa Fe native Jessica Butler, offers craft beers, popular varietal wines, local spirits, creative margaritas and specialty cocktails. Butler has been with Santa Fe Dining Company as Restaurant Manager of Blue Corn Brewery, and was most recently the Catering Banquet Manager at La Posada de Santa Fe. Meet you there for a drink and a nosh? Mark August 15 and 16 on your calendar for the opening events for Chef Fernando Olea’s new restaurant, Sazòn, at 221 Shelby (formerly Tanti Luce 221). After closing Bert’s Burger Bowl and Epazote on the Hillside, Olea just can’t sit still, we guess! Sazòn will offer newworld, high-end Mexican cuisine as well as a tequilaria and mescaleria
bar, plus traditional Mexican dishes, both á la carte and in a tasting menu, with many of the dishes incorporating tequila and mescal. Of course, the menu would not be complete without Chef Olea’s renowned moles. Originally from Mexico City, Chef Olea has been enthralling savvy diners in Santa Fe since 1991 with his unique interpretation of contemporary and traditional Mexican dishes. Décor for the new place showcases the works of prominent Mexican artists, the centerpiece being a large mural painted by Federico Leon De La Vega that illustrates all the ingredients found in Chef Olea’s New Mexican Mole, which he created to commemorate Santa Fe’s 400th anniversary.
| Fernando Olea of Sazòn and Patty
photo Mia Rose Poris
Great news for Heights residents who love a good Cajun-style fish feast. Down N Dirty Seafood Boil is opening a second location at 4200 Wyoming NE. The original location in the North Valley has long been a destination for those who don’t mind wearing a plastic bib and using their fingers to savor the outstanding fish, crawfish, crab, sausage and other goodies that Down N Dirty scoops out of giant pots. The new location will also include steaks, sandwiches and salads, restaurant partner Som Xanduvong says, and eventually beer and wine. Until that location opens, head to 4th Street between Montaño and Osuna to get your ya-yas on.
http://albuquerque.schoolofrock.com
b y K E L LY K O E P K E
Welcome Chama River Brewing Company’s new executive chef, Lora Goza. Chef Goza was exposed to a variety of cuisines around the world that fuel his lifelong passion for cooking. His love for Southern cuisine became an inspiration and influence for his culinary career, which started at Copeland’s of New Orleans, continued in Las Vegas, where he was a chef for Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, and the Rio All-Suite Hotel/Casino. He’s late of Albuquerque’s Marcello’s Chophouse. Now at Chama River Brewing Company, his creativity is sure to make a mark.
So Santa Fe has its Shake Foundation built solidly. Soon, owner Brian Knox plans to add Taco Foundation in the old Bert’s Burger Bowl building. The menu will feature tacos, naturally, but a few favorites from Bert’s as well. Prices will be similar to Shake Foundation, anywhere from $3.50-$8 for simple organic ingredients done well. Knox does burgers and shakes well at Shake Foundation, and we look forward to munching on tacos soon. Congrats to Creative Santa Fe on its selection as one of 69 awardees
nationwide to be recommended for the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) Our Town awards. The NEA received 275 applications for Our Town this year. Creative Santa Fe’s $150,000 award will support two years of design and programming for the Santa Fe Arts + Creativity Center, an affordable live/ work/creation space where Santa Fe’s creative workforce can develop individual and collaborative projects and learn entrepreneurial skills, as they transition from training to independence in the art markets. The partnership of Creative Santa Fe, the City of Santa Fe and New Mexico Inter-Faith Housing is focused on the goal of training, retaining and cultivating creative professionals at the Arts + Creativity Center. Shared business development resources, commercial and community spaces will be designed to catalyze economic activity. The target residential population is creative community members who will live in 60 affordable live/work units, and the community at large: younger, culturally diverse, emerging artists and craftspeople transitioning to market self-sufficiency. For more visit creativesantafe.org. Mayor Javier Gonzalez has declared August 24-29 as Santa Fe Street Fashion Week, bringing attention to fashion as one of the most accessible aspects of Santa Fe’s destination global art market. Amy Shea, Santa Fe Street Fashion Week’s executive director, has a week of events lined up, including a ticketed fashion show at La Fonda on the Plaza showcasing the international fashion available in Santa Fe: The Row, NOIR by Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, Etro, Brunello Cucinelli, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Ivan Grundahl, Orlando Dugi, Lars Andersson, Lily of the West, United Nude, Atelier Zobel and Atelier Danielle. “Many people who live here don’t understand the scope of excellent fashion work available here, and the incredible knowledge and background of the merchants who curate these collections, choosing from the best of the best to bring that work to Santa Fe.” In addition to designs from local shops Ojo Optique, Lily of the West and Patina Gallery, the fashion show features a special appearance and fashion presentation by costume designer, Renato Dicent. He’s known for creating designs and costumes for film and stage. Details of the week’s events are at santafestreet.com.
contest to put your tamales to the test and possibly walk away with bragging rights and awards to prove it. The Angel Fire Chamber of Commerce presents the inaugural Tamale Festival for New Mexico. They clearly speak tamale! The Festival’s top event will be the tamale cook-off contest. Plus there will be red and green chile cook-offs and a hot salsa award. The weekend will be fun-filled with tamale tastings, a tamale-eating contest, booths, food vendors, an artist market and a kid zone. For music lovers, this event will feature two live music stages, a Battle of the Bands, and an entertainment plaza. Visit angelfirechamber.org for more. The 32nd season of Music from Angel Fire starts August 21, and features world-class, internationally known musicians performing chamber and classical music in Taos, Raton and Angel Fire. Following the theme Made in America, a celebration of American composers and music is on the schedule, as well as international composers who were inspired by our great country or wrote special works while in residence here. Celebrate the audiences’ desire to expand their knowledge with Chamber Music 101, hosted by Jonathan Coopersmith, chair of musical studies at the Curtis Institute of Music. Then celebrate the 2015 American Composerin-Residence, David Ludwig, and Young Artist Composer-in-Residence, Alyssa Weinberg. And celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Town of Taos in a special program at the Taos Center for the Arts. Learn more at MusicFromAngelFire.org. Speaking of special anniversaries, August 23-October 4, commemorate the 200th anniversary of San Francisco de Asis Church in Ranchos de Taos with lectures, exhibits, artwork, history programs and a mass and feast day. Some highlights include documents and photos in the Parish Hall during the week of August 17, exhibits and artwork in Parish Hall on August 23, a history presentation by David Maes on August 30, lecture by Gustavo Victor Goler on September 6, lecture by State Historian Rick Hendricks on September 13, a program on the history of the Talpa Chapel on September 20, and a mass and Feast Day of San Francisco de Asis on October 4. Go to taosartcalendar. com for details.
Do you habla tamale? We do. That’s why we’re headed to Angel Fire on August 8 and 9 for the Habla Tamale Cook-off and Festival. Do you or someone you know make the absolute best tamales in the world? Well now you have a
photo: Travis K. Witt
TAOS
| San Francisco de Asis Church
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The 17th annual Great Southwestern Antique Show is August 8 and 9 at the Manual Lujan Complex, at Expo New Mexico, showcasing over 200 of America’s finest dealers of art and antiques, with the proceeds from this event benefiting local arts and education non-profits. This show continues to grow every year with its unique early American arts & crafts, Native American, Western fine art and ethnographic art bent. Sponsored by Cowboys & Indians Antiques on Central Avenue in Nob Hill, visit gswevents.com for ticket details, a list of exhibitors, more on the charity sneak preview on August 7 and more.
work has been exhibited widely in galleries and museums throughout Europe and North America and her list of private collectors, permanent collections and commissions is extensive. Petter’s high-profile portrait work includes Crown Princess Mary of Denmark and President Barack Obama. She most recently unveiled her portrait of former President Bill Clinton, located in the Danish Embassy, in Washington DC. Petter’s fascination with newspaper as a medium consists not only of it being the diary of our lives, it also presents a black/white/and limited color palette. Normally known as a fragile material, Petter transforms paper, which is typically thought of as a fragile substance, into a very strong and solid material. The exhibition will feature a series of Madonna- and Maesta-style images in a range of sizes, from small to very large. The artist’s “heads” or portrait-style works reflect the influence of Renaissance and Byzantine styles and approaches, as well as the extended time she has spent in Italy and Mexico. Visit tanseycontemporary.com.
courtesy of the Tansey Gallery
the ART BUZZ:
ALBUQUERQUE
| Great Southwestern Antique Show Art in the Park, an outdoor summertime art fair in the heart of Corrales, is August 2! Shop award-winning artists and a wide range of art and fine crafts, including paintings, photography, fiber art, fused and stained glass work, jewelry, ceramics, woodcarving, printmaking, sculpture, silk painting and woodwork. The Red Light Ramblers will again stroll La Entrada Park to entertain with their bluegrass sounds. In the afternoon, The Buckerettes, another local favorite, will perform at the band shell. Street Food Institute food trucks and O’Bean’s coffee van will provide nibbles. This event also features three local art galleries—Galeria de Corrales, Bosque Gallery and Morgan Gallery—and the Corrales Wine Loop (Corrales, Acequia, Pasando and Matheson wineries), and Village Pizza and Indigo Crow Café. For more, visit nmartistsmarket.org. HABITAT: Exploring Climate Change Through the Arts opens August 29 at 516 ARTS with opening receptions for two exhibitions, Knew Normal and Off the Charts. Knew Normal is a selection of recent works from established and emerging contemporary artists who use paintings, drawings, photography, sculpture and wearable art to bear witness to the moments when environments, including the body, become more difficult or awkward to inhabit for reasons generally attributed to climate change. Off the Charts examines the visual language artists use to document, process, map and manipulate a better | Mel Chin Bank of the Sun understanding of the everevolving world we inhabit. This collaborative season of public programming explores climate change through the arts to create a platform for education and dialogue. Programs include exhibitions, the popular Downtown Block Party in September, special events with guest speakers, film screenings, workshops and youth programs, with a mix of local, national and international artists. One of the highlights is the renowned artist Mel Chin’s, The Potential Project, which envisions a Bank of the Sun in the Western Sahara that could provide the rest of the world with a working economic model as a response to climate change; the artists speaks in September at UNM. Visit 516arts.org for the complete schedule, venues and artists.
SANTA FE
On August 14, Portraits, a solo exhibition featuring all new works from Gugger Petter will open at the Tansey Contemporary Main Gallery on Canyon Road. Petter’s
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| Grugger Petter After a successful inaugural event in 2014, Indigenous Fine Art Market is gearing up for its second year. IFAM is a juried art show and includes the highest-quality artwork featuring Indigenous artists from around the globe. More than 400 acclaimed Indigenous artists will show and sell their contemporary and traditional art at the second annual IFAM at the Santa Fe Railyard on August 20-22. Participants include (among lots of others) Patricia Michaels, Jesse Monongye, Darryl Dean, Rebecca Begay, J. Nicole Hatfield, Ric Charlie, Evelyn Fredericks and Vernon Haskie. Find out more at indigefam.org SITE 20 Years/20 Shows: SUMMER is the second in a yearlong series that celebrates SITE’s dynamic exhibition history by reconnecting with artists who have exhibited over the years, and inviting them to return with new work. Through October 4, five SITE exhibiting artists have returned to SITE to present a new show, complemented by archival material presented in the SITElab (a rotating selection of video footage from performances and public programs, and photographic documentation of SITE’s exhibition history). SUMMER welcomes back Janine Antoni, Amy Cutler, Ann Hamilton, Harmony Hammond and Dario Robleto. Visit sitesantafe.org for complete details, hours, etc.
TAOS The Taos Society of Artists arguably put Taos on the art map. On August 8, Dr. Dean A. Porter, a noted painter and historian, author of Victor Higgins: An American Master, and co-author of Taos Artists and Their Patrons, gives the why and when of the Taos Society of Artists. Purchase tickets for the lecture at the Harwood Art Museum at harwoodmuseum.org. Thursday, August 27 is the opening of The Beautiful Midden project, a model for place-based stewardship for future environmental restoration and art projects throughout the state of New Mexico. The project runs through September 24 at the Encore Gallery at the Taos Community Auditorium and Stables Gallery. By bridging the cultural and economic divides in confronting systemic societal issues and destructive habits that underlie environmental degradation, the project serves as way to unify and revitalize existing efforts. This exhibition is a celebration of the project and will feature artwork and documentation of the Beautiful Midden team as well as related Taos student work. Head to tcataos.org for details.
JOHN NIETO
“Coyote in the Moonlight”
30" x 40"
Acrylic
A Force of Color and Spirit
Reception • Friday, August 21, 2015 • 5 to 7 pm
VENTANA FINE ART 400 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-983-8815 • 800-746-8815 • www.ventanafineart.com
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New Mexico Art League FA L L S C H E D U L E O F C L A S S E S , W O R K S H O P S A N D E X H I B I T S
MONDAYS Painting the Figure in Pastel with Denali Brooke September 14 - November 2 9 AM to 12 Noon Experimental Mixed Media and Design with Lea Anderson September 14 - November 2 9 AM to 12 Noon Composing the Landscape in Oils with Tom Blazier June 13 - 14 September 14 - November 2 1 PM to 4 PM
TUESDAYS Painting the Landscape in Pastel with Bill Canright September 15 - November 3 9 AM to 12 Noon Color and Composition in Watercolor Beginning to Advanced with Carol Carpenter September 15 - November 3 9:30 AM to 12 Noon Composing the Still Life with Cynthia Rowland September 15 - November 3 1:30 PM to 4:30 PM
WEDNESDAYS Introduction to Drawing and Painting with Maria Cole September 16 – November 4 9 AM to 12 Noon
Painting the Landscape in Oils with Waid Griffin September 16 – November 4 1 PM to 4 PM The Portrait - Selection and Intention with Cynthia Rowland September 16 – November 4 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM
THURSDAYS The Visual Diary: From Sketching to Drawing to Painting with Vasili Katakis September 17 – November 5 9 AM to 12 Noon Color and Composition in Watercolor Beginning to Advanced with Carol Carpenter September 17 – November 5 1 PM to 3:30 PM Introduction to Painting in Oils and Water-based Oils with Nancy Goetz September 17 – November 5 1 PM to 4 PM Abstract Painting with Arden Hendrie September 17 – November 5 5:30 PM to 8:30 PM
FRIDAYS Painting the Land of Enchantment in Watercolor with David Chavez September 18 – November 6 9 AM to 12 Noon Open Life Drawing Session No Instruction / Ongoing class 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM
A Study in Portrait Drawing with Shana Levenson October 2 – October 23 12:30 PM to 5 PM Painting the Interior Space in Oils with Waid Griffin September 18 – November 6 1 PM to 4 PM
SATURDAYS Beyond Perspective with Vasili Katakis September 19 – November 7 9 AM to 12 Noon Draw What You See: Color with Denali Brooke September 19 – November 7 1 PM to 4 PM Building a Portfolio for Teens with Nancy Goetz September 19 – November 7 1 PM to 4 PM
SUNDAYS Open Life Drawing Session No Instruction / Ongoing class 1 PM to 4 PM
LOCAL COLOR DEMOS The Portrait in Charcoal by Shana Levenson August 30 Sunday, 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM Splash Color/ From Ancient to Modern with Ming Franz November 15 Sunday, 5 PM to 7 PM
WORKSHOPS Painting en Plein Air in New Mexico with Waid Griffin September 9 - 12 Wednesday through Saturday 9 AM to 4 PM Painting as a Second Language with Brian O’Connor November 13 – 15 Friday through Sunday 10 AM to 4 PM Abstract Splash Color/ Pouring on Paper with Ming Franz December 4 – 6 Friday through Sunday 9 AM to 4 PM
EXHIBITS New Works by NMAL Faculty July 18 – August 29 Biologique / Inspired by Nature September 4 – October 9 Reception, September 19 Saturday evening, 5 PM to 7:30 PM Limited Edition / Prints of all Sorts October 17 – November 21 Reception, October 24 Saturday evening, 5 PM to 7:30 PM Small Works / The Holiday Show November 30 – January 16 Reception, December 12 Saturday evening, 5 PM to 7:30 PM
CALL FOR ENTRIES Limited Edition / Prints of all Sorts October 17 – November 21 prospectus available August 15 Small Works / The Holiday Show November 30 – January 16 prospectus available August 15
For registration and more detailed information visit newmexicoartleague.org All classes are held at 3409 Juan Tabo NE Albuquerque, NM (505) 293-5034 Gallery hours: 10 AM to 4 PM Tuesday – Saturday
Named for the resort’s original hospitable owner and reputed ghost, Julia features truly spirited dining from James Beard recognized Chef Todd Hall. NOW OPEN FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH Enjoy Prime Rib, Leg of Lamb, Glazed Ham, Salmon, Shrimp, Omelets, Champagne and more. $55 per person and half-price for children
For reservations, please call 505-986-0000 or visit opentable.com
CAKEBREAD CELLARS WINE DINNER A sensational dinner paired with selections from one of the nation’s finest wineries. Thursday, September 24th - $150 per person 330 East Palace Avenue laposadadesantafe.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
AUGUST 2015
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THE BOOK, THE CHEF, HIS WIFE AND THEIR COVER story by JAMES SELBY
Globe Pequot Press, an imprint of Rowman and Littlefield
p h o t o s b y K A T E R U S S E L L compliments of Globe Pequot Press
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As in a Western epic where partners join shoulderto-shoulder to ride out together, local heroes Chef Martin Rios, Jennifer Rios, Bill Jamison, Cheryl Alters Jamison and photographer Kate Russell, banded together to create The Restaurant Martín Cookbook: Sophisticated Home Cooking From the Celebrated Santa Fe Restaurant (Rowman & Littlefield, Publishers). The book, hot off the range, was released in mid-July and is available from the usual sources and area stores, or stop by Restaurant Martín to purchase a copy. You just might get lucky and receive an autograph. The chef/ author spends a lot of time there.
Martin Rios, 50, has dark eyes that frankly show the steep dues paid to a chef ’s life. From dishwasher to culinary school to apprentice and then from an ever successful series of executive chef jobs, Martin, and wife and business partner, Jennifer, purchased a long fallow building at the corner of Paseo de Peralta and Galisteo Streets in Santa Fe. The couple reimagined the site, sweating equity into the remodel, and opened Restaurant Martín in September, 2009. With a welcoming courtyard, clean interior lines of light-stained woods, elegant and comfortable, the family-owned restaurant has been a continual favorite of locals, travelers and critics. Both Martin and Jennifer have had a professional “wish list,” which included (A) their own restaurant, (B) James Beard recognition, and then a multiple-choice: bakery, another restaurant, franchise, or, (C) cookbook. “In no way,” says Jennifer, emphatically shaking her curly hair á la Bernadette Peters, “we see this book as a financial windfall. We see it as an investment in our reputation.” And, she adds, “People are always asking Martin for recipes.” Assembling the book’s partnerships began a year and a half ago. “I would see the Jamison’s back when I was chef at the Old House (in Santa Fe’s Eldorado Hotel). I didn’t know they were cookbook writers,” says Martin, “but from our conversations, I could tell they knew food. Then, I began to read their books. I respected their detailed descriptions of food and ingredients.” Martin describes the discussions about collaborating, saying, “There was a lot of back and forth of ideas, publishers, trying to find a system that worked for all of us. We knew there hadn’t been a book written of this type. Bill Jamison was the mastermind who put the vision together that made sense. Cheryl was the hands-on, handling all the details, seeing what I did in the kitchen and translating it.” For 25 years, Bill and Cheryl Jamison have authored more than a dozen travel and cookbooks. They’ve won four James Beard Foundation awards, appeared at festivals, on television, in life-style magazines and have taught and guided foodies around the world. “We were always fans of Martin Rios,” Cheryl says when asked what drew them into the project. “Martin loves cooking. He still works with the guys on the line. And, most are guys,” she says, musing on the masculine stronghold of professional kitchens. “The process is fun for him and he cares about cooking. Martin is different from other chefs of his caliber who’ve franchised themselves all over the place. Soft-spoken, humble, always pushing to do better work, never sitting on what he did before, makes him one of the best chefs working today. Anywhere! He and Jennifer are great people and Bill and I really wanted to do this project.” Part of the book is given to Rios’ early inspirations and upbringing in Guadalajara, Mexico, where he spent his youth working with his grandmother in an outdoor street-market kitchen. “It’s a fascinating back story,” Cheryl says. “As a boy, he learned to pick the best vegetables and fruits, cheeses, to pluck chickens,” she laughs. “Talk about noseto-tail training!” Restaurant offices are a study waiting to happen. Most are converted storage rooms without windows, furnished with castaway dormitory desks. In this, at least, Restaurant Martín is not the exception, and one often finds Chef Rios working on his laptop in the restaurant’s new courtyard-dining addition, the retractable windows thrown open to his kitchen garden. “For seven months, I had no life,” Rios says, sipping coffee with cream from a paper cup. “Our book has 96 dishes, and each dish has three recipes. Every free moment I spent typing recipes!” Why three recipes? Both Cheryl Jamison and Rios spoke
| Bill and Cheryl Jamison
| Final touches on Martín’s BBQ Carrot Salad
“Martin is different from other chefs of his caliber who’ve franchised themselves all over the place. Soft-spoken, humble, always pushing to do better work, never sitting on what he did before, makes him one of the best chefs working today. Anywhere!” -Cheryl Jamison A Taste of Life in New Mexico
| Lemon Saffron Arancini with Pickled Beets & Golden Raisin Herb Salad
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about the challenges of writing for the home cook, while at the same time elucidating Martin’s approach to equipment, ingredients and sharing insights into his unique, creative combinations. “Many cookbooks are written from chef to chef, and can be complicated for the home cook. It can scare people off if they don’t own a $3,000 machine. This is two cookbooks in one, marketed both to professionals and good home cooks,” Rios explains. Recipes are written in levels of complexity, showing the reader components they may leave out and simpler alternative methods for achieving great results. “We wanted this to be inclusive,” Cheryl says, “detailing all the key embellishments and multiple sauces. Those touches are important to Martin. But not everyone at home can or wants to | Key Lime Vacherin with do all that on a weeknight.” Szechuan Peppercorn The partners were open-minded and agreed to disagree. Martin Meringue and Almond says: “Cheryl would tell me, ‘I don’t like that dish.’ And, I Coconut Crumbs would say, ‘Why?’ She’d say, ‘Because it’s not you.’ And she’d be right. I’d go back and redo the dish.” Rios returns to the subject of details. “I have always known how I put dishes together. I know what goes in it! But Cheryl forced me to be precise. ‘No pinches,’ she’d say. ‘Weigh and measure every single thing.’ And if I didn’t know exactly how much I put in, we’d make it over. I learned her way of putting down recipes. I’d write as I learned from her. The experience has made me a better chef,” says Rios. “We would spend the day in the restaurant kitchen,” recounts Cheryl, “and I would ask, ‘Why this?’ and, ‘What’s that process?’ I’d take notes, go back to my Tesuque kitchen using the same ingredients and––with household equipment––make home versions of the recipes.” “Kate has always worked with us whenever we’ve used a photographer,” Jennifer Rios says of the book’s photographer, Kate Russell. “We’ve always been locally minded. We want to use local talent, friends, people we respect. Also, I like that our book is printed in the United States. Kate is so gifted and cool.” Jennifer shyly shrugs. “I feel cooler just by knowing her.” The process of food photography was not something Martin had thought a lot about. But, he says, when he saw the first photos for the cookbook, “It looked nice, but we needed to be more original. We asked ourselves, what are we seeing; what else can we do?” Martin pauses like a storyteller. “Then, 18
AUGUST 2015
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Globe Pequot Press, an imprint of Rowman and Littlefield
THE BOOK, THE CHEF, HIS WIFE AND THEIR COVER
| Jennifer and Martín Rios
we found our inspiration in texture. The foods had textures, so Kate began bringing in stones, river rocks, found objects like pieces of rusted metal, or a plank of old wood.” Relaxing back in his chair, he says, “The dishes were brought to life.” In the end of those classic tales of the West, deed fulfilled, the heroes ride toward the horizon, but not before the heartbreak of an ambushed comrade. Less than four months before the book’s release, Bill Jamison died from complications of cancer. “We sent in the manuscript on a Friday,” Cheryl says, “and left for the Mayo Clinic in Scottsdale on Monday.” The Jamison’s continued to work on the proofs and edits in Arizona between treatments. Bill Jamison lived to see the cover. “The project was a remarkable gift,” says Cheryl. “We were aware that we were telling Jennifer and Martin’s story, and through it all, became friends. Make no mistake; Martin is the author of this book. It’s his voice that comes through.” Behind every good partner is a good partner, and The Restaurant Martín Cookbook had the binary effect of partners partnering. “Jennifer has always encouraged me to have my dreams come true,” says Martin Rios. “We made it come true.” Restaurant Martín is located at 526 Galisteo Street in Santa Fe. restaurantmartin.com. 505.820.0919.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
AUGUST 2015
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Jill Scott Momaday story by GAIL SNYDER p h o t o s b y D O U G C R AW F O R D
F
RETURN TO RAINY MOUNTAIN
or two years in the early ’90s, Jill Scott Momaday drove one day a week to Jemez Springs to visit her Grandmother Natachee. “I’d bring a bag of groceries, a nice bottle of red wine, and it would be just me. We’d sit all day, telling stories.” She stares inside, remembering. “Getting to do this was very important to me. My Grandmother Natachee was a really strong woman—maybe 5’2”, if that. She was a spitfire, a hellion! Everyone said I looked and acted just like my Grandmother Natachee.” Jill laughs, adding, “Thank God I got the tall genes in the family!” Her grandfather, Jill says, was Kiowa; her grandmother was “mixed blood”: Cherokee, English and French; her father, author N. Scott Momaday is seven-eighths Kiowa. Her mother is Irish and German. As the middle daughter of three (later four), Jill took after her Kiowa ancestors with her dark hair and brown eyes; her sisters have lighter skin and hair. “I was searching,” she says, “learning who I was through my grandmother and my dad, connecting with old places, people and their way of life. Each time I drove away, I’d have tears streaming down my face, thinking, ‘I’ve got to preserve these stories that are so important to who I am.’”
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Photo: Kitty Leaken
| N. Scott Momaday Throughout their childhood, Jill’s grandparents and dad always told the sisters stories. “When we visited Kiowa relatives, we partook in the Gourd Dance, our sacred Kiowa ceremony, which falls on the 4th of July—that’s my birthday,” Jill says. “I was enmeshed in my Kiowa heritage from a very early time. When I’d dance in that arena, in the park—and it’s hot in July in Oklahoma!—it was so powerful for me.” She says relatives always remarked, “Well, you’re the Indian in the family!” And Jill “embraced and celebrated that. And I loved that it was my birthday; they would place shawls over my shoulders.” The dance and ceremony, she says, “were magical for me, as for my dad.” Jill’s grandfather was born at Mountain View, Okla., in a tipi, where they lived while Jill’s great-grandfather built the homestead. His parents took Jill’s father, an only child, up to Wyoming when he was very small to see a place sacred to their ancestors. An imposing monolith, Devil’s Tower, seemingly appeared straight out of the ground to embrace the sky. According to the ancestral story, seven sisters and their brother were playing in the woods one day—the brother pretending to be a bear, chasing his sisters. Suddenly, the boy actually became a bear, and the sisters ran in terror. As they passed a tree stump, it said, “Climb onto me. I will protect you.” Then it shot up to the heavens, where the sisters became the Big Dipper’s seven stars. No one ever knew what became of
| Doug Crawford the brother. Upon the family’s return home, a Kiowa elder gave the young Momaday his tribal name. Nature girl as well as voracious reader, Jill loved Joy Harjo’s poetry, cowboy stories and everything by her father. “I read his books again and again and again.” The considerable body of his work is based on his own memories growing up, as well as orally transmitted stories, myths and Kiowa tribal history. Researching and writing his books helped him better understand his ancestry; immersing herself in them helped his middle daughter, thirsty for this knowingness, better understand it for herself. So as a young adult, after additionally steeping herself in her grandmother’s stories, Jill felt a strong compulsion to share them with the world, “in my own, woman’s voice,” as she says. “Originally, I thought I would perform a one-woman show,” Jill continues, “weaving together all these stories and dialogues, all these lives. But eventually, I had a family and I couldn’t get to my creative voice—I was too busy being a mother and a wife, continuing my acting career, trying to do it all. But I’ve always written in my journals.” Jill spent many years juggling all these other aspects of her life; the ancestral stories, meanwhile, she says, she did nothing with but carry them—until recently, when she was struck by the idea to weave them into a feature-length documentary, The Return to Rainy Mountain. Forty-six years earlier, Momaday published The Way to Rainy Mountain, documenting his retracing of the Kiowa ancestors’ migration from up north to Oklahoma. Jill decided to repeat this journey as a modern-day road trip with her father, hanging the stories on this framework. “The film begins,” says Jill in the trailer’s voice-over, “at the origins of our people, the headwaters of the Yellowstone River.” As the path proceeds from there through breathtaking scenery of Montana, North Dakota, Wyoming and further south, the camera lingers over passing landmarks held sacred by the Kiowa people: Black Hills, A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Medicine Wheel, Devil’s Tower. “These are places that open our hearts,” Jill’s voiceover continues. “All my life, I’ve wanted to visit these places. Now I can go with my dad.” The documentary follows two arcs: one tracing this historical migration through the evocative landscape that generated such wisdom-filled ancestral legends; the other focusing on the personal father-daughter reconciliation. In 1969, Jill explains, N. Scott Momaday became the sole Native recipient of the Pulitzer Prize for Literature, “and it changed the course of our lives forever. My parents were separating, they got divorced, and he was gone. Oh, we still had special times together with him after that, but always there was this ‘other thing’ in the way—readings, meeting him coming or going from his trips. One of my sisters said, ‘We get in line with everyone else trying to get his autograph, get him to touch or talk to us—we’re flailing along just trying to get in there, too!’ I remember being at the airport with him one time, and this couple of women hurried up, telling him, ‘You have the voice of God!’ I believed it! Everyone just melts around him.” Of course, Jill also struggled with other aspects of his fame. “There was a lot of pain, a lot of angst that went along with being the daughter of a literary icon, trying to find my own identity and creative voice.” This ancient migration, she says, “is a huge part of who I am. Being there with my dad, in that sacred space, touching that ground—there’s nothing like it in the world! Making that journey together is giving us an understanding of what this is we both have. It’s amazingly powerful, so emotional and layered with different meanings for me—and it brings me closer to him and to my own self. He’s said to me, ‘Well, Jilly, it means so much to me that these things mean so much to you.’” Jill describes sitting with her father recently in the arbor outside their Mountain View homestead. “He tells me this story I’ve heard all my life, about his naming. I’ve heard it a thousand times or more. And it’s never enough.” Sitting right there, surrounded by this deeply familiar land, the site of the naming’s occurrence, she hears new tones, new echoes in this story she knows by heart. “He had times like these with his father, too.” Mr. Momaday’s Kiowa name means Rock Tree Boy. In the documentary, Jill creates a stunning reenactment, haunting and dreamlike, of the sisters and their brother chasing them through the trees. “I identify with the boy,” her father says in the film, following this scene, and suddenly you make the connection of his name with the famed landmark, Devil’s Tower. “This story,” he continues, “is a quantum leap of imagination. It explains this feature of the landscape and it also relates us to the stars.” As filming continues, the New Mexico Women in the Arts plan a September gala fundraising event in celebration of Jill Scott Momaday, “Weaving Legend, Legacy and Landscape Through Filmmaking.” Storytelling, Jill believes, “is the thread that connects
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RETURN TO RAINY MOUNTAIN
Photo: Linda Lyn Carfagno
Jill Scott Momaday
all humanity.” In Return to Rainy Mountain, “I hope to dig deeper with my father into the reasons we’ve shared these stories for hundreds of years. Forgiveness, understanding, love,” she adds, “that goes on forever.” “There’s a feeling of urgency about this now,” Jill continues. “We’re at great risk of moving farther away from Earth, each other, the universe and, ultimately, ourselves. People need hope for the future. I come from a very long line of powerful women. That female voice of incredible wisdom comes from an emotional and intuitive place. My feet are on the ground, touching sacred Earth, my heart is open, and the voice comes from there.” Her mother, she says, has been her rock of Gibraltar. “I’m mixed-blood—I’m a bridge. I love bringing people together, moving through different cultures. I came into this life with this purpose. It’s everything to me. I can’t not do it.” The idea for the stories’ film format is a special story all its own. “It came through in my Grandmother’s voice,” says Jill. “I was clearing the kitchen table after dinner and her voice rang so clear, it stopped me in my tracks. I asked Darren, who was stirring the fire, “Did you hear that?” He said, “Hear what?” That’s how it began. And she said, “Now it’s time you do this.” There are several sites devoted to Jill Momaday. For information on the documentary go to facebook.com/ ReturntoRainyMountain. For more information on the American Women in the Arts event go to newmexicowomeninthearts.org.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
AUGUST 2015
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The Rail Yards Market in the Que story by GORDON BUNKER
photos by CHAD GRUBER and SEAN POITRAS
T
he industrial neighborhoods of Albuquerque’s South Valley have always fascinated me. The gritty work, real tangible stuff, happens here. Fleets of trucks are maintained; pipe and fittings for the oil and gas industry are fabricated; there are welding shops, millwork shops and lumberyards. Residential
neighborhoods are pocketed among the blocks of big commercial buildings. And the prized gem in this rustic crown would be the Rail Yards, established in the 1880s to maintain and repair steam locomotives. Just south of the Albuquerque train station in the historic Barelas neighborhood, and set between 1st Street and the tracks, giant derelict buildings of steel, concrete and glass now stand as silent reminders of a past time and technology. On Sundays, however, things at the yards are not so quiet. What used to be the Blacksmith Shop (built in 1917), now houses the Rail Yards Market. Karen and I went recently. Arriving at about 10 a.m., we pull into the onsite parking lot for a dollar. Stepping out of the coolness of the air-conditioned car, we wilt under the brilliant mid-summer sun beating down upon us. The notion of an indoor open-air market is very appealing. In a shady place right beside the north entrance to the building, we are greeted by a white-bearded fellow in a stovepipe hat along with his long-necked avian partner offering “Goose Tarot.” OK…? Walking through the wideopen, steam-engine-size door, the immediate feeling of the place and crowd is a cross between farmer’s market and an entire neighborhood getting together for brunch. The approximately 80 vendors are selling a variety
of produce, arts and crafts, and prepared foods. There’s also skin care and apparel. We don’t see anyone in the crowd carrying around a week’s worth of groceries as might be the case at other, more farmer-focused markets. A few folks are carrying perhaps a bunch of radishes or onions, but largely people are here to hang out, nosh, catch up and shop. Café-style tables and chairs are set up at the ends of the building. On the community stage, guitarist/singer/songwriter Walker Young regales us with his interpretations of Beatles songs. At a central art center, kids create mosaics by gluing colorful corn kernels onto panels. One vendor selling screen-printed t-shirts has transformed our beloved Zia into crispy rays of bacon emanating from an egg, fried of course, sunny-side up. The vibe is definitely local; people are connecting with one another––this is community. Young families, aged ones, hipsters, the whole gamut. Even though it’s only a little while after opening, it’s humming, and by 11 the place is packed. This vast interior space is a cathedral to the age of steam. The past is present even in the way the buildings are constructed. Curved steel roof trusses, beautiful in their complexity, are made of many small, straight sections of I-beam, riveted together. We don’t do it that way any more. Exterior walls, some three stories high, are entirely windows. Multitudes of small, true divided lights, some of them yellow or green, are set in steel mullions. The jewel-like effect of sunlight streaming in is spectacular. I get the feeling a big part of the market’s success is in the setting. The crowd and the place are a comfortable
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The Rail Yards Market in the Que
“This vast interior space is a cathedral to the age of steam.�
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fit. The bare minimum has been done here to make this place functional for public gatherings. A few handrails have been installed; the floor’s been swept. That’s about it. From the market, we wander around to a couple of the other buildings. Doorways to the machine shop and boiler shop (built in 1921 and 1923, respectively) are open. They are gated, so we are limited to peering in. We gather with other visitors. Didactic panels give some of the history; one includes a historic photograph of an entire coal-fired steam engine hoisted into the air. Surreal as a dream, it’s just hanging there from the still extant overhead lift. The scale of it all is awe-inspiring, and the space is hauntingly quiet. There are ghosts of the men and women who gave so much in doing hard physical labor in what had to be a harsh environment. Hints of the noise, the heat, soot, oil, grease and danger permeate the air. Bearing witness to it all is deeply moving. People point out details to one another and speak in hushed tones. At its height in the first half of the 20th century, The Albuquerque Rail Yards employed 1,500 people, drawing largely from those who lived in the Barelas neighborhood. However, in the 1950s, with the shift to diesel powered locomotives, which have a far greater service life and are much more reliable, the yards were no longer needed. The 27-acre site was purchased in 2007 by The City of Albuquerque, and with an eye toward redevelopment, the wheels of planning are turning slowly. The Blacksmith Shop is available for public and private functions. Now in its second season, the Rail Yards Market is a grass-roots organization operating under the fiscal sponsorship of the Barelas Community Coalition. Karen and I have already taken one lap of the market. We’ve munched on scones, sampled smoothies and done some peoplewatching. I suggest we take one more lap before we go, just in case there’s some detail or nuance we’ve missed. Sure enough, we’re on the final leg and Karen hones in on a vendor who repurposes recycled bits and pieces into decorative craft. Specifically, she is drawn to the, um, ristras made of spent shotgun shells and twine. Good kitsch, from my experience, is hard to find, and these things, oh, they are a complete hoot. We check out the selection, and an all-red one takes the prize. The next day will be Karen’s birthday and I’ve yet to find her a present, so I buy one and hand it to her. “Happy Birthday a day early,” I say, and she is thrilled. (Proof that something a bit fancy gets right to a girl.) This is the ultimate redneck ristra. Carrying it as we continue on our way, Karen gets some looks and comments from passersby. She now has it hanging on her front door. You just don’t see one of these every day. As we leave, I find myself wishing the Rail Yards could somehow simply be left alone. Admittedly, the beauty of derelict buildings may be an acquired taste, and in another light they can be seen as hazards, but master plans and design by consensus can wring the life out of things. It’s in the rough edges at the yards where traces of past life linger; herein lie the connections to the significance and soulfulness of the place. The Rail Yards Market shows us people are drawn here—not to mention there’s tremendous vitality to the neighborhood, pretty much as is. There’s no finer place for Sunday brunch in Albuquerque. The Rail Yards Market is located at 777 1st Street SW in Albuquerque. It’s open every Sunday, May through October from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. railyardsmarket.org.
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In Historic Old Town
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Historic Old Town
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Summer in
A
s soon as you pass the sign welcoming you to Corrales, it’s clear that you’re some place special.
The village of Corrales, a laidback town of about 8,500 people just northwest of Albuquerque, is an idyllic sliver of time. Horses graze in pastures; trees grace the sides of the road; orchards and vineyards dot the landscape; galleries, small shops and restaurants (often in vintage buildings) line the over-two-mile stretch of Corrales Road. And overseeing it all from the other side of the Rio Grande are the watermelon mountains of the Sandias. The land that became Corrales is some of the richest in the state. Agriculture flourishes in the fertile soil that’s nourished by the waters of the Rio Grande. The early farmers planted crops, and missionaries planted grapes to make the sacramental wine. That agricultural tradition is still strong, and it has been flavored by an influx of artists who, entranced by the beauty and the light, settled in town and turned it into a working artists’ homeland.
Artists at Work
The art scene in Corrales can only be described as big, diverse and vibrant. Imagine a medium and someone is probably working in it. Art dolls, metal working, wood working, pottery and quilting, as well as more traditional media can be found in individual studios, galleries and cooperatives. The Corrales Society of Artists/ New Mexico Artists’ Market lists over 120
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CORRALES
members. Not all of the artists live in Corrales, but the majority who do note the warm welcome and support they receive from their peers as one of the joys of the village. “The way in which artists here work together and support each other is uncommon and something to value,” says Ken Duckert, the president of the society. Many artists work out of home studios, but there are certainly plenty of places to get your art on. At Hanselmann Pottery (4908 Corrales Road), you’ll find everything from tiny vases to gorgeous canister sets and even full place settings and bridal registries. Each piece of stoneware is hand-thrown on the potter’s wheel and then glazed, so no two pieces are truly identical. The Morgan Gallery, also at 4908 Corrales Road, represents over 20 artists whose work spans media and style, from abstract paintings to watercolor landscapes, and sculptures to photography. Although the gallery does showcase international artists, the majority are from Corrales. Corrales Bosque Gallery (4685 Corrales Road) has been showcasing its juried members for 20 years. Representing 16 diverse artists, the gallery takes the jury process one step further and accepts particular types of work. Artist Alice Webb, for example, displays her abstracts and landscapes, while Dianna Shomaker shows her eye-catching encaustic work, created from heated wax and colored pigments. Galeria de Corrales (3923 Corrales Road), at the southern entrance to town, is another memberowned-and-operated art gallery with artisan crafts such as ceramics, printmaking, handcrafted art dolls, jewelry and quilting as well. Rugs are art, too—especially in Corrales. At Classic World Rugs (4685 Corrales Road), the Joseph brothers, Imran and Irfam, not only sell beautiful handmade rugs, but they are happy to educate shoppers about the different styles and
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kinds. The rugs, many from Pakistan, Afghanistan and India, fill the space and turn the shop into a kaleidoscope of color and pattern, with styles and types of rugs that can’t be found elsewhere. These rugs are, as Imran notes, “like a piece of art, and the most practical art.” Antiques and unique jewelry? Prized Possessions (4534 Corrales Road) boasts a huge, diverse antique jewelry collection. Owner Janet Pugh uses her degree in fine art to transmute antique buttons into pendants and earrings, as well as other one-of-a-kind pieces. “I like to take antique things and mount them,” she explains.
Wine and Food
Wine growing is a tradition that stretches back to the Spanish colonization. The grape-growing tradition of today has expanded beyond the original “mission grapes” and is upheld by the Corrales Wine Loop, which welcomes wine lovers to its tasting rooms. Each of the four Loop wineries offers a regular schedule that includes Saturdays and Sundays (although the exact hours may vary), making it enticingly easy to begin at one end of town and sip (responsibly) to the other. Three of the four wineries are in Corrales. Acequia Winery (240 Reclining Acres) derives its name from the old Spanish term for the irrigation canals that channel water from the Rio Grande River. Corrales Winery and Vineyard (6275 Corrales Road), a solar-powered winery, offers striking views of the Sandias to the patrons sipping a glass on its patio. Pasando Tiempo (277 Dandelion Road) is the newest member of the Loop, and Matheson Winery (103 Rio Rancho Boulevard), while technically outside the town, is also part of the winery collective. Although Milagro Vineyards & Winery (125 Old Church Road) is not part of the wine loop, tours and tastings are available by appointment 505.898.3998.
stor y by NEALA MCCARTEN Photos cour tesy of CORRALES-NM.ORG
There’s not a chain restaurant in sight in this local-focused town. Instead, there are individually owned and operated eateries that serve everything from pizza to fine dining, early breakfasts to late night brews. Hannah & Nate’s (4512 Corrales Road) is a beloved place for breakfast and lunch, whether on the tree-shaded patio or in the air-conditioned dining areas. When you walk into Hannah & Nate’s, you’ll be handed both breakfast and lunch menus. My favorite meal of the day has always been the morning meal, so I was delighted to be able to order breakfast when I scooted in at 1:50 p.m. (they close at 2). The menu includes just about everything you could want, but my choice was Nate’s Omelet with carne adovada with a touch of cheddar cheese—richly flavored but without the hard bite. The lunch menu boasts salads, grilled sandwiches and New Mexico favorites. A children’s menu is also available. When you crave fine dining with a laidback vibe, Indigo Crow Café (4515 Corrales Road) is a perfect choice, with lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch on the tree-shaded patio, or by the fireplace in winter. Indigo Crow recently reopened after remodeling its kitchen, bringing in new equipment. Innovative interpretations of established dishes keep diners returning to this delicious hideout. The wide-ranging menu includes beef, fish, chicken and pasta dishes, as well as some choice starters. Entrees feature filet with fire-roasted green chile and gorgonzola cream sauce, lobster ravioli with a 4-ounce tail and spicy lobster cream sauce, and a wonderful sweet-and-spicy glazed halibut. Corrales Bistro Brewery (4908 Corrales Road) is known for its New Mexico microbrews. Open for lunch and dinner, with live entertainment most evenings, the Brewery has 12 beers on tap at any given time. In addition to brewing its own creations, the brewery also serves great beers from around
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Summer in
CORRALES the state. Water is a crucial ingredient for brewing great beer, and Corrales Bistro Brewery uses “untampered” water from its own deep well. The menu features salads, wraps, sandwiches and burgers. They get particularly busy after 4 p.m.
Events
If the galleries and shops weren’t enough of a reason to visit Corrales, La Entrada Park by the Community Library is a patch of cooling green grass that hosts the monthly summer Art in the Park through October 4th. The Sunday summer Corrales Growers’ Market (500 Jones Road; 9 a.m. to noon) adds live music to the market’s baked goods, jams, honey and locally grown seasonal fruits and vegetables. And of course, Wagner Farms, an agricultural institution for 100 years, has its own farmstand at 5000 Corrales Road, as well as beloved special events for families. Although no longer a place of worship, the Old San Ysidro Church (966 Old Church Road) still welcomes the townspeople. The Corrales Historical Society restored and now maintains the iconic old church, which dates back to 1868 and is listed on the New Mexico Register of Cultural Properties and the National Register of Historic Places. The Historical Society offers an enticing program of activities that are listed on their website. corraleshistory.org.
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Let’s Grab a Beer! + S
ummer: It’s a beer drinkers’ season if ever there was stor y by MELYSSA HOLIK one. I mean, no one heads out to the lake with a cooler full of wine! No one rewards themselves for an afternoon of yardwork by enjoying a shot of bourbon! And when it comes to firing up the grill, nothing compliments a summer barbecue quite like a pint shared with friends.
Beer is the very substance of summer, and thanks to the craft-brewing boom, seasonal beers are enjoying a real heyday. We’re not talking a watery corporate lager spiked with citrus and called a “summer beer.” We’re talking brews in hues of gold, pink and summer hay, inspired by ice cream, cherry pie and raspberries, and made to pair with green-chile cheeseburgers and red-chile barbecue sauce. There are more than enough seasonally appropriate options coming out of New Mexico microbreweries, so we rounded up a few favorites. Stock your cooler and start savoring the height of beer-drinking season!
Red Door Brewing Company “Red Door brewed a vanilla cream ale for the summer. This light and refreshing session ale (session meaning lower alcohol content) comes in at 4.2 percent. The vanilla cream-soda flavor will pair equally well with desserts or a green-chile cheese burger. If you’re cooling off the blazing heat from some Hatch chile or the 90-plus days we’ve been having, the ale is perfect for summer.” Wayne Martinez, brewmaster, Red Door Brewing Company
Lizard Tail Brewing “Our summer seasonal is a raspberry wit—a Belgian-style witbier with raspberries. It’s tart, crisp and refreshing––perfect for those hot summer months.” Dan Berry, co-founder and head brewer, Lizard Tail Brewing
Bosque Brewing Company “Beauty is brought to light in the simplicity of Bosque’s Farm & Cherry. It’s a simple pilsner with an acidulated malt base that allows the funkiness of the Belgian Trappist yeast and tartness of the cherries to shine. As our brewer, John Bullard puts it, ‘Ripe, tart cherries and cherry pie were the inspiration for this beer. We set out to create a refreshing beer that would stave off the heat of summer.’ The light pink hue of this full-bodied, unfiltered, fruited ale is a perfect accompaniment to all things summer, especially outdoors!” Jotham Michnovicz, co-owner, Bosque Brewing Company
Turtle Mountain Brewing Company “One of our popular summertime beers is our Kosmonaut Kölsch, a German-style ale fermented at low temperatures to create an easy-drinking yet very flavorful patio pint. The Kosmonaut Kölsch-style ale is the essential summertime beer––brilliantly filtered to a sparkly light hay color with perfect carbonation for mouthfeel. The nose is gently sweet with soft ester profile. On the tongue, it comes off dry and clean and perfect for those hot sweaty days. You can’t find much better than this celestial beer for patio enjoyment.” Tim Woodward, Head Brewer, Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. 36
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TO D AY ’S S P EC IA LS Red Door Brewing Lizard Tail Brewing Bosque Brewing Turtle Mountain Brewing Nexus Brewery
Santa Fe Brewing
Canteen Brewhouse Spotted Dog
Nexus Brewery “Nexus is featuring a single hop and single malt (S.M.A.S.H) pale ale that focuses on Czech Saaz hops for these hot summer days. It was inspired by a love of the ‘noble’ Czech Saaz hop, and the curiosity of what it tastes like completely on its own, unaccompanied by other hops. It makes a great summer beer because it’s got a great and distinct hoppy flavor, without being cloying or overpoweringly hoppy. The mild, floral and earthy characteristics of this beer pair perfectly with our breaded chicken wings covered in red chile BBQ sauce.” Kaylynn McKnight, head brewer, Nexus Brewery
Santa Fe Brewing Company “Freestyle Pilsner is our go-to when the going gets hot. Featuring 100-percent traditional German malt and a blend of European hops, it is dry and crisp, light in body and color, and thirst-quenching but still big on flavor. Its hop-driven citrus, spicy and herbal character pairs well with all manner of salads, seafood, chicken and tacos, while its soft malt body balances out the hottest salsas and green chile.” Luke Macias, craft crusader and event coordinator, Santa Fe Brewing Company
Canteen Brewhouse “Canteen Brewhouse always brews fruit-infused beers during the hot months. This year, we have a Raspberry Lime Wheat, made with whole raspberry puree and pure lime juice. Yes, it’s pink. But boy, is it wonderful–– fresh, tart and crisp. The light body keeps it drinkable in the hot weather, pairing great with salty snacks when a big meal is simply not on the menu.” Scott Sessa, assistant brewer, Canteen Brewhouse
Spotted Dog Brewery “A couple of the brews we especially like for summer are our Hefewiezen and our Raspberry Wit Ale. Hefewiezen is the quintessential wheat beer. Created with wheat and hopped with Hallertau hops, this crisp ale is the answer to all your problems on a hot summer day. Our Raspberry Wit Ale is a spiced wheat ale with hints of coriander, grapefruit and tangerines. It’s brewed with four grains and four hops, then infused with fresh, mashed raspberries.” Jerry Grandle, brewer, Spotted Dog Brewery
+
Whichever of these brews you choose, one thing is certain––these summertime suds will keep you smiling well into the fall, or no matter how high the mercury rises.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Now That’s Italian!
W
ith over 350 authorized grape varieties and roughly 500 additional grape types found in Italy, the country is an incredible trove of variety. Such diversity needs explaining, especially in wine. From north to south, from Nebbiolo to Nero d’Avola, the country, with its cuisine and wine, is amazing for its breadth of local specialties.
There isn’t one Italy, there are many. How do you “travel the boot” and decide what wine to drink? When it comes to understanding what is available in New Mexico, I head to Albuquerque to talk to Daniela Bouneou, the Italian-born owner of the highly respected restaurant Torino’s at Home, and the Zonski family at Jubilation, which has been serving Albuquerque’s large Italian-American community for three generations. Torino’s at Home opened in 2006 in Santa Fe, offering vacuum packed and frozen meals to take home, hence the name: it brought the cuisine of Torino (Turin), in Northern Italy, to your doorstep. When the restaurant moved to Albuquerque, on Jefferson north of Ellison, it kept the name and the cuisine. Daniela was born and raised in Torino. She is married to chef and co-owner Maxime Bouneou, a Frenchman from Nice, and together they have a restaurant that is both simple and elegant. The front of the house, Daniela’s domain, is as colorful and stylish as Daniela herself. She has worked in the food industry since she was a young teenager and has spent time in four star hotels in Europe. Her mission is to break the stereotypical mold of Italian food that exists in New Mexico and offer “more than Alfredo.” She is proud to say “this is not a fine dining restaurant, this is a trattoria. We offer family food, grandma’s food, and we don’t cut corners.” She provides an example of her high standards as she educates a new employee on serving an espresso with proper “crema,” the lighter colored layer on top of the extracted coffee.
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Presenting wine takes a level of confidence, she explains, especially if the customer is unfamiliar with the category. She offers “sips” and jokes, “My Italian accent gives me credibility.” Most of the list is Italian wines, organized in easy to read sections with regional titles like Toscana-Marche-Umbria (Central Italy) or Puglia-Sicilia-Sardegna (Southern Italy). Her approach when talking to customers is refreshing. She avoids the jargon typical of some sommeliers and uses descriptions that come from her heart and her Italian upbringing, relying on history and personal details. “I sell wine with stories,” she is proud to say. So what wines does she like to recommend? She starts with Pieropan Soave, from the Veneto in the North of Italy. “I like this wine with our calamari alla diavola, which has tomato and a little bit of spicy heat from árbole chile. The wine is crisp and I like to serve it very cold because that accentuates the fruity taste that goes with the spicy dish. With this wine I like to change people’s minds so they can discover something new. Even a Chardonnay drinker will like it.” As she moves to red wines, she is quick with the next suggestion and it is not Chianti. “We like Selle e Mosca Cannonau from Sardinia because it is great with our meat dishes. Of course it is Grenache—not fruity Grenache like banana, but a dry red wine that stays on the palate a long time. It is rare that people do not like this wine.” Sardinian Cannonau is so famous that it has been mentioned on the Dr. Oz Show on television and in “The Blue Zones,” by Dan Buettner, a book that looks at areas in the world, like Sardinia, with surprising concentrations of centenarians. Daniela’s third wine is Marchesi Biscardo Valpolicella Ripasso, also from the Veneto in Northern Italy. “You like a light wine, you like Valpolicella. You like a rich wine, then you want the Valpolicella Ripasso,” she explains in her inimitable Italian style. The ripasso production method passes the fermenting wine, made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, back through the grape skins that were used to make Amarone, the region’s most famous wine. With this additional step during the fermentation, the wine picks up body and richness. Daniela likes it with the restaurant’s agnolotti: ravioli stuffed with ricotta, pecorino and New Mexico beef brisket braised for hours in red wine. So these wines and dishes make for great dining, but if you want to buy the wines, or other Italian wines to take home, where do you go after educating your palate at Torino’s? Daniela likes to recommend Jubilation Wine and Spirits, also in Albuquerque, on the corner of Lomas and Carlisle. John Zonski and his wife Carol, the owners of Jubilation, are New Mexico natives who met as students at the University of New Mexico. Carol’s dad, Henry Rivera, owned Old Town Liquor Shoppe at Rio Grande and Central and over time John became more and more involved. The store moved to its present location in 1988. It is a genuine family store, with third generation siblings Tasha and brother Arik now working there full time. Not only does it have an outstanding selection of craft beers, spirits, Italian vermouths and amaro liqueurs, but also Italian wines. John is quick to point out that there is a relatively large Italian population in New Mexico; many of the original immigrants worked in the mines in Raton. He summarizes the Italian wine market in Albuquerque: “When Italians settled in Albuquerque, they became merchants, grocers, restaurateurs and liquor wholesalers, bringing their love for their country’s food and wine. The market for Italian wines slowly grew from Chianti and Pinot Grigio and now includes demand for wine from all over Italy.” John’s daughter, Tasha, is the wine buyer for the store and obviously has a following, as seen one early Saturday morning when a couple stopped in to buy four cases of assorted wines. She also becomes enthusiastic when asked about Italian wines and focuses on wines that are from Piedmont and Tuscany.
“Let’s start with white wines for the summer,” she exclaims. “I love the Vietti Arneis”—a wine made from the Arneis grape that retails for under $30—“for its dry, bright fruit. It is lemony and complex, great with salads and seafood and made by a good, solid producer.” Another unusual white from Piedmont is her next suggestion: Tenuta San Lorenzo Gavi, under $20 retail, which is made from the indigenous Cortese grape. She describes this wine as having “white peach fruit, a nice flinty minerality, and a slight herbal note, reminiscent of thyme.” But for red wines she has to include a wine from Tuscany. She grabs a bottle and displays its label. “If you want a wine that really over-delivers for the price [under $12], this is it. The Monte Antico Rosso is predominantly Sangiovese, similar to Chianti, but earthier, with some Merlot and Cabernet that add rich tannins. This is your Wednesday night wine!” story by PHILIP DE GIVE
Her finale is one of her favorites, and we return to the region of Piedmont. Barolo is one of Italy’s most esteemed and respected wines and is usually expensive. For a less costly alternative, she points to a bottle and says, “This is our ‘baby Barolo,’ the Enzo Boglietti Langhe Nebbiolo [under $30]. It is made from Nebbiolo, the same grape used for Barolo, and has spicy dark fruit with balanced acidity. The finish lingers with beautiful ripe tannins that are not harsh.” Her enthusiasm is contagious. It is easy to justify buying a bottle or two right on the spot. As a wine wholesaler, I’d like to add two of my favorite Italian wines, both from regions not mentioned by our other two experts. From the north, adjacent to Piedmont, is the region of Lombardy. Chiavennasca is the local name for the Nebbiolo grape variety and Nino Negri Quadrio is 90 percent produced from that varietal, with a bit of Merlot included. It is estate grown, within the Valtellina DOCG, or denominazione di origine controllata, Italy’s highest controlled classification for the region. The grapes are harvested ripe, late in October, then vinified in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in large oak barrels, so they do not impart much oak character. This wine has notes of roses, violets and herbs, and subtle hints of prune from the ripe grapes. It is similar to a ripasso, but with higher acidity. Next is a wine representing the only DOCG in Sicily, the island at the southern tip of the country, Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Cerasuolo means “cherry red” in Italian and the wine displays that fruity character but with complexity and depth of flavor. It is made from Nero d’Avola and Frappato, two local grapes, and Frappato can remind you of the Gamay grape of Beaujolais. The wine is versatile and will even work with grilled or broiled shellfish as well as lamb and hamburgers. With marvelous Italian restaurants like Torino’s and local wine retailer Jubilation right in town, it’s easy to explore the fascinating world of Italian wine and cuisine. If you’re cooking a regional Italian dish for dinner explore that region further and pair a local Italian wine with the dish, or try one of your retailer’s suggested wines from elsewhere in the country. We hope this trio of wine industry professionals’ recommendations will encourage you to be adventurous. Try something new from the land that has one of the best wine and food traditions in the world, Italy. Great wine with great food? Now that’s Italian! Torino’s @ Home is located at 7600 Jefferson Street NE in Albuquerque. 505.797.4491. torinosfoods.com. Jubilation is located at 3512 Lomas Boulevard NE in Albuquerque. 505.255.4404. jubilationwines.com.
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STILL HUNGRY? story by CAITLIN RICHARDS
|
photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
T
his year marks the 15th anniversary of Chef Mark Kiffin’s ownership of The Compound Restaurant, but you wouldn’t know it; Chef Kiffin is saving up the big celebration for next year, when he is “planning on a partying summer” to celebrate The Compound’s 50th anniversary. This is the bigger milestone for Chef Kiffin, who says, “There are only a few really classic nationally recognized restaurants
like this” that are 50 years old. Asked about the smaller milestone, Chef Kiffin laughs, “This year is my 15th anniversary, so that’s fun!” Then in a more solemn tone, he adds that it really is “quite an honor—also a lot of work.” Laughing again, he says, “Welcome to the restaurant business, now give up your life!” Did he know he would be here for 15 years when he bought the restaurant? “I probably did.” He pauses, “I probably didn’t think about it.” The 15 haven’t all been smooth sailing. “There are times when, let’s face it, you’re concerned,” the chef says. “I survived 9/11 in this restaurant and I survived the crash of ’08. We held on and didn’t change the look or the style.” The restaurant also did a lot to promote itself in those times, but the key was that it “really stayed consistent at being The Compound and holding its standard.” What was his vision 15 years ago? “After Coyote in the ’90s, I knew I needed something good-sized,” Chef Kiffin says. He looked a lot, and really liked The Compound, but Victor Sagheer, the original owner, didn’t plan on selling. “I visited him in Dallas, and I wrote him a menu: steak tartare, sweetbreads, nothing Southwestern.” Victor told him, “I’m selling to you because I want to eat that!” The Compound was the home Kiffin was looking for. He explains that it was “something big enough, something historic, [it] needed to be revived, and I get to cook a different type of food.” Big enough it certainly is. Kiffin tells me that they do 13 points of service a week—lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday, and dinner on Sunday. The Compound is the largest free-standing restaurant in Santa Fe, with multiple dining rooms, patios and private rooms available. That’s a lot of staff. Kiffin laughs, “At last count I figured that I’m responsible for 49 children between the Compound and Zacateca’s in Albuquerque.” Some of those kitchen and office staff ’s children will be the first generation in their family to go to college. You can tell from his tone that he really does feel responsible for his staff and their families. “We have a great team,” he says. I ask Chef Kiffin about the artwork on display; it would be difficult to come to The Compound and not notice it. Because of its location on Canyon Road, in the heart of the Santa Fe arts district, The Compound plays a role in promoting art and artists, particularly New Mexico artists. The Alexander Girard pieces “were here before me,” Kiffin says, and | Mark Kiffin of The Compound adds that the Dan Namingha pieces were chosen because they fit well and he really likes the work—“I 42
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have some at home as well,” the chef notes. About a year and a half ago, they did some remodeling and diamondplastered the walls in the downstairs. “It was the first time since I’ve been here that we pulled down the sun and the moon and the flag. I was terrified!” He told his workers, “You know what the ad says, ‘This is priceless?’ Well, this really is priceless!” The Allan Houser pieces in the sculpture garden were more recently added by the owner of the building, Fran Mullin. “We have four Allan Houser’s, three on the garden patio and a new one on the side patio,” Chef says. “One is a one-of-one, so that’s really special.” Last year, The Compound held a party on what would have been Allan Houser’s 100th birthday. “His wife was here, Mrs. Houser, who is 103.She’s about four-feet tall and there’s | Allan Houser “Canyon Passage”, bronze, 1993 about 100 people crammed in there.” Kiffin is laughing at the memory. “She had a microphone in one hand and a cocktail in the other and you would have thought the woman was doing a Vegas act! It really made that special.” Does he have a plan for the next 15 years? “Yeah, I want to be here!” He’s laughing again. “I have no exit strategy. Just gotta keep going. The food business doesn’t end.” He adds that he does plan on writing a book about The Compound—“a history of The Compound, Alexander Girard, the importance of the building to Santa Fe.” Do you still work the line? “I’ll step back and push and have fun sometimes. Absolutely!” Kiffin still creates all the dishes and is very present in the kitchen. In fact, “I’m driving tonight,” he says, “Expediting. We have a couple of parties, so I’ll help keep | Allan Houser “Medicine Man”, marble, 1980 things running smoothly, so our chef de cuisine Josh Kalmus can concentrate on other things. We have a great culinary team and I am proud to help them lead the way.” Any regrets in the last 15 years? Chef Kiffin grows thoughtful, “Would I do the same path now, knowing what I know now? Probably not.” He is quick to add that playing the hindsight game never gets you anywhere and that the path he chose allowed him to meet the people he loves and be the man he is now. As for his success, “I’m very humbled by it. We work to be busy.” His mantra is, “Let’s do our best to better our service, product and name so we can keep going. Because we’re going to keep on going.” I ask for any final thoughts before we stop talking. Kiffin pauses and thinks a moment. “It’s not an ego statement, but I’m up on the hill; I’m the king of the hill. And we’re not going anywhere. Our team, from the mangers to the waitstaff, have helped make this restuarant the landmark place that it is. In 15 years, I’m very confident that I will still be here. The joy and the care and the craft don’t change.” Enjoy the dishes, the artwork and the beautiful building at The Compound Restaurant, 653 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.4353. compoundrestaurant.com. The Compound is open for lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday, and dinner on Sunday. The Compound is closed three days a year, Memorial Day Monday, Labor Day Monday and Super Bowl Sunday, because Chef Kiffin likes sports!
| Allan Houser “Buffalo Hunt Cut Out”, 1994
| Allan Houser “Water Spirit Bird”, bronze, 1980
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? Y R G N U H L IL T S C
hef Kiffin has given us three recipes. The tuna tartare is “one of the originals,” Chef Kiffin says. “It’s been on the menu for 15 years.” A real Compound Classic. The wild mushroom polenta is a vegetarian dish and a house favorite. The Denver bar steak is from the new bar menu—“it’s fun, seasonal and new.” Chef has kindly tweaked the recipes slightly so that they’re easier for the home cook to follow.
P O L E N TA W I T H W I L D M U S H R O O M S AND ARUGULA For 4-6 portions
For 6 appetizer portions
1 pound high-quality stone-ground yellow polenta 1quart vegetable stock 1 cup milk 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter 1 teaspoon Kosher salt 1 cup good quality Parmesan cheese
1 pound ahi tuna, or the best available sushigrade tuna 1 shallot, minced 1 Tablespoon fresh minced chives 1 small lemon, zest only 1 Tablespoon virgin olive oil Kosher or sea salt
½ pound good quality mushrooms, shitake/crimini/oyster 1 Tablespoon chopped shallot 2 Tablespoons white wine 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
Cut the tuna in small dice, keeping cold the entire time during cutting (bowl over bowl with ice). Mix in the tuna with the shallot, chives, zest and olive oil, stir to mix. Season with salt to taste. Return to refrigerator until ready to serve.
1 bunch arugula leaves 1 Tablespoon fresh parsley, minced fine 1 Tablespoon fresh thyme, minced fine
Serve with your favorite toast points or crackers.
Heat stock and milk and butter in stock pot until steaming. Add polenta and salt and cook 15-20 minutes, stirring often until softened. Add Parmesan, combine and pour into a baking dish. Use a spatula to spread mixture evenly in pan and let chill in refrigerator until solid. When ready to use, cut into triangle shapes and fry with a little butter in a saute pan until golden and slightly crispy. To make sauce, saute shallots in butter for a few minutes, add mushrooms and continue cooking until they are softened. Add white wine and reduce, continuing to cook until mushrooms are cooked, add herbs, toss to combine and spoon over polenta. Garnish with fresh arugula leaves and Parmesan.
DENVER “BAR” STEAK 4 portions
4 each—8-ounce “Denver” steaks, (Whole Foods usually carries these) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tablespoon butter ½ small red onion, sliced thin ¼ pound Chanterelle mushrooms or other seasonal mushroom ¼ pound haricot vert green beans, blanched in boiling salted water. Shock in ice bath, drain 1 Tablespoon fresh minced parsley 1 Tablespoon fresh minced thyme 4 ounces good quality beef jus Season the steaks with salt and pepper, grill on a hot grill to desired doneness. Let rest at least 5 minutes before slicing or serving to rest the juices. Heat a sauté pan to medium hot, add the tablespoon of butter, add onions and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, heat for 1 minute then add the green beans, sauté for another minute. Finish with the fresh herbs and adjust the seasoning. Heat the beef jus. To plate, place the vegetable mixture down, slice the steak and place on top, spoon sauce over and around. Enjoy!
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1413-B West Alameda 1/2 mile west of Solana Center
WINE BISTRO
THE M O S T C O LO RF UL O U T D O O R DINING I N S A NTA F E Lunch & Dinner Monday–Saturday Sunday Supper 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com
70 W M a r c y S t r e e t • S a n t a F e 505-988-9648 • Open 7 Days a Week
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
AUGUST 2015
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Open Wednesday to Saturday Happy Hour — Live Entertainment — Tapas Eldorado Hotel — 309 W. San Francisco St. 505.988.4455 — EldoradoHotel.com
∀圀漀爀氀搀✀猀 吀漀瀀 匀瀀愀∀ ⴀ倀爀攀洀椀攀爀 吀爀愀瘀攀氀攀爀 䴀愀最愀稀椀渀攀
䘀愀挀椀愀氀猀 ⴀ 䴀愀猀猀愀最攀 ⴀ 圀爀愀瀀猀 ⴀ 匀挀爀甀戀猀 ⴀ 圀攀氀氀渀攀猀猀 拠攀爀愀瀀椀攀猀 ⴀ 匀愀氀漀渀 匀攀爀瘀椀挀攀猀 ⴀ 䴀愀渀椀挀甀爀攀猀⼀倀攀搀椀挀甀爀攀猀
㌀ 㤀 圀⸀ 匀愀渀 䘀爀愀渀挀椀猀挀漀 匀琀⸀Ⰰ 匀愀渀琀愀 䘀攀Ⰰ 一䴀 㠀㜀㔀 ∠ 㔀 㔀ⴀ㤀㤀㔀ⴀ㐀㔀㌀㔀 ∠ 䔀氀搀漀爀愀搀漀䠀漀琀攀氀⸀挀漀洀⼀一椀搀愀栀匀瀀愀 46
AUGUST 2015
magazine.com
Nearly a half a century of providing the ultimate Santa Fe dining experience...
LUNCH • DINNER • BAR
Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com
photo: Kitty Leaken
L AU R A S H E P P H E R D ATELIER & STORE
New jackets for Fall! Pre-Performance Special 3-Course Dinner Only $40 Nightly 5:30-6:30 PM Shrimp Bisque or Watermelon Salad Grilled New York Strip or Roasted Poblano Chile Relleno Trio of Housemade Sorbets with Cookies or ‘Daffodil Cake’
65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com
231 Washington Ave Santa Fe • 505-984-1788 • santacafe.com • photosantagto.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
AUGUST 2015
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ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET presents
Juan Siddi
SANTA FE
ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET
PRESENTING SPONSOR
July 12, 21 & 26 August 1 & 29 September 5
SEE EXTRAORDINARY DANCE AT PREFERRED HOTEL PARTNER
Tickets: 505-988-1234 or at www.aspensantafeballet.com BUSINESS PARTNERS
MEDIA SPONSORS
GOVERNMENT / FOUNDATIONS
Melville Hankins
Family Foundation
Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts.
PHOTOS: ROSALIE O’CONNOR
July 10 & 31 September 4