S AN TA F E | AL B UQ UE RQ UE | TAO S
A Sip of Santa Fe
Our Café Culture
M AY 2 0 1 4
A TA S TE O F L I F E I N N EW ME X ICO
¡Más!
Chef Caruso in the ‘Que
Chasing the Light The Vision Behind the Camera
L AU RA S H E PP H E R D ATELIER Ethnic Chic
Edible Summer Series
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A showcase of fine food and drink on the exclusive 5th floor patio of the Eldorado Hotel & Spa
Food • Drink • Music You’ll LOVE this summer series!
May 9 June 12 July 11 August 15 September 19 October 8
Santa Fe Spirits Patrón Tequila New Mexican Summer Beer Fest Best of Santa Fe KGB Spirits Small Batch Whiskey Showcase (Beam Inc.)
Celebrating 31 Years as Santa Fe’s Premiere Southwestern Bistro Mother’s Day Brunch
May 11, 10am-2:30pm Our Mother's Day Brunch is a culinary dream Reservations 505.995.4508
Total Tap Takeover
Featuring new “casual favorites” on our dinner menu! Chicken Enchiladas $12 • Santacafé Green Chile Burger $9.50 Sherried Chicken Salad $12
231 Washington Avenue • Santa Fe 505•984•1788 • santacafe.com
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MAY 2014
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May 16, 5:30pm With Santa Fe Brewing Co. Specials on beer flights, pints and bites
Experience Beervana!
May 17, 6:30pm 5-Course Dinner Featuring North Coastal Brewing Reservations 505.995.4530
Raw Bar & Sushi
Tuesday-Saturday, 4-10pm Meet Chef Taka Ayamoto Enjoy fresh oysters, sashimi, the Eldorado Gold Roll & more!
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309 W. San Francisco St Santa Fe, NM 87501 EldoradoHotel.com 505.988.4455
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Inside:
ON OUR COVER: The Betterday Coffee Shop
The Buzz by Kelly Koepke
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What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!
Coffee Different in the City Different
by Erin Brooks
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Enjoy a sip of Santa Fe––it’s what our new café culture is all about.
Homemade Yogurt by Gail Snyder
page 16
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It’s as simple as one, two, three and as pure as can be.
Burqueños Queremos Más by Kate Gerwin
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Chef James Campbell Caruso takes Albuquerque by storm with his new place in the Andaluz, Más –Vino y Tapas.
Let’s Make Lasagna by Gail Snyder
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New Mexico gardeners learn to feed the soil—and it’s a lot like making lasagna.
Let’s Ride!
by Gordon Bunker
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Jump on your bike and moto––New Mexico has some of the best motorcycling in the country and no one knows it better than writer, Gordon Bunker.
Chasing the Light
written and photographed by Gabriella Marks
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Our readers have enjoyed her photographs for years in Local Flavor and now she shares her vision from behind the camera.
A New Accent at the Anasazi by James Selby
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Hailing from Argentina, Chef Juan Jose Bochenski brings a new accent to the Anasazi kitchen and charms us all.
Chef Johnny Vee Wants to Know by John Vollertsen
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Chef Pat Keene of the Artichoke Café in Albuquerque is on our Q&A list this month.
Still Hungry? by Mia Carbone
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Beth Draiscoll of the Zia Diner shares some Mother’s Day memories as well as three memorable recipes. MAY
2014 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant: Mia Rose Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kitty Leaken Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544.
Margret Henkels 505.501.2290. Cherilyn Swenson 505.501.5146. Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130.
223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used
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without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.
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’ n i k o Sm
Gabriella Marks has been shooting for the Flavor for the past seven years now, and her story, “Chasing the Light,” is a fascinating insight into the personal journey that a professional photographer takes each time they grab their gear and go out on assignment. I don’t go along on photo shoots as often as I used to, but regardless of who the photographer was, there was always a point when I would tease them and say, “We have the shots we need…now you’re just playing.” This story is your invitation to tag along. One of the stories that Gabriella shot this month was “Let’s Ride!” At this time of year, we always cover at least a few of the many outdoor adventures to enjoy in New Mexico—rafting, skiing, kayaking, mountain climbing, fishing, mountain biking––but motorcycling…this is a first. I had no idea how enormously popular it is here and how perfect our landscape is for it. Thank you Gordon and Jason and Andy for letting us ride along (and for the great tips on the best back-road routes). And oh! Did I mention? Gabriella grabbed her camera, jumped on her Suzuki and captured the fun. Now from the wild to the mild side. We also enjoyed some first-class dining in this issue. One of Santa Fe’s most celebrated chefs, James Campbell Caruso of La Boca and Taberna, made his debut in Albuquerque with the opening of the stunningly beautiful Más in the Hotel Andaluz. I’ve been enjoying James’ incredible tapas for years now, but there was something about the ambiance at the Andaluz, the energy of Albuquerque, James’ excitement at the new venue––I just fell in love all over again with his cuisine and his skillful pairing of wine and sherries. Here in Santa Fe, we followed a fun new trend with the recent opening of three cafés that are very, very serious about their coffee. Audrie, the young lady on the cover, is enjoying a morning hot chocolate, but Mom is definitely there for the joe. The shot captures Betterday’s vibe where the scene is actually an essential part of the coffee experience. Iconick Coffee Roasters captures an entirely different audience and Arroyo Coffeebar shows still another side of Santa Fe. It’s what I love about this town––decide who you want to be on any particular day, and there’s a place where you’ll feel at home. Enjoy the beautiful days of May and enjoy the issue. Photo: Jasmine Quinsier
2571 Cristos Rd, Santa Fe (across from the Auto Park near Kohls) 505-424-8900 • info@theranchhousesantafe.com
In our recent survey, readers asked for stories that would take them behind the scenes of Local Flavor to see how our staff put an issue together. I knew they weren’t referring to the hours of tracking down and researching the people we write about or the tedious copy editing or writers driving miles to a remote farm to interview someone, or the fun but tiring task of wading through hundreds of photographs to choose just the right one. They wanted to go on a photo shoot. So, photo shoot it is.
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MAY 2014
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A new kind o f f abu l o u s ar o u nd e v e ry c o rner !
Elevating Santa Fe’s optical experience with refreshing & artistic independent eyewear.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
MAY 2014
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b y K E L LY K O E P K E
Photo: Kitty Leaken
Albuquerque craft brews collected medals at the 2014 World Beer Cup in Denver last month: Rio Rancho’s Cazuela’s Mexican Grill and Brewery (a bronze for its Oatmeal Stout), Il Vicino Brewing Co. (silver for its Coffee Stout) and Marble Brewery (gold for its Pilsner). Add the accolades to the new breweries popping up, it’s no wonder that Livability.com ranked Albuquerque as the best mid-sized city for beer in the country. According to the editors, Albuquerque is “known for its cultural diversity, authentic landscapes and genuine characters–– and that extends to its brews.” I’ll raise a pint to that!
| Marble Brewery Another brewpub should be open by the end of May, this time in the Sawmill district of Old Town. Ponderosa Brewing Company has its roots in Portland, Ore., but with an Albuquerque connection. Founder Chad Rennaker, a developer, has been involved in other Sawmill projects. Head brewer Matt Kollaja has been overseeing tank installation, and has his own New Mexico connection––he and his wife got engaged in Albuquerque. Look for a variety of beer styles, and a strong food focus because of the neighborhood setting, and a desire to be more family friendly than some other brewpubs. Watch for the opening soon at 1761 Bellamah NW. A big welcome to Chama River Brewing Company’s new head brewer Zach Guilmette, who says he remembers Chama River when it was one of the only venues to get excellent craft beer. He’s excited to return to his old stomping grounds, and we’re excited to have him back.
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Just one more beer item, I promise! Celebrate the yeasty beverage from May 22 to May 31 at events around the city. The ten-day Albuquerque Beer Week series of events brings the community together to celebrate great beers and the wonderful places in which we enjoy them. There is something for everyone to get excited about: new and existing beer lovers, foodies and the general public. A highlight is the May 25 Albuquerque Blues and Brews event at Sandia Resort and Casino, featuring bands, tastings and a charity component. Details on all events at abqbeerweek.com. The Duke City food scene has a new fine-dining steakhouse, The Crown Room at the Downs Racetrack and Casino. The buzz around town is that the space is beautiful, decorated in rich golds, coppers and reds, the service is expert and the food is even better. Executive Chef Cordell Bomar’s menu offers the usual beef, plus a deft turn with seafood, which flows in daily from Florida. Have you been? Let us know if the experience lives up to the buzz. Call 505.767.7180 for dinner reservations, Thursday through Sunday.
A couple of notable expansions this month, too. First, the New Mexico Tea Company has opened a tea-tasting salon, The Green Room, at 317 Gold SW (next to Ghost Flame!). The reason? David Edwards’ original shop at Mountain Road and 12th Street has become too small for the popular, regular tasting events. Two-hour tastings feature about ten different teas, including white, green, oolong, black, pu-erh and rooibos, a bit of history and how to prepare them. He says The Green Room will also be part art gallery, part meeting space. For more, call 505.847.6523. Next, Nicole and Greg Villareal, owners of Nicky V’s Pizzeria, have opened Pi Brewing Company right next door to their pizza, pasta and salad joint at 9780 Coors NW. Joining the pair is brewmaster Charlie Sandoval, who has been home brewing for over ten years. Says Nicole, “The space next door became available, so there will be a tap room there. Customers can order food from Nicky V’s and Pi beer at both places. We’re doing an IPA, a red, West Coast-style ale, a porter, a cream ale and an English-style pale ale.” The name comes from the brewing license they have, which allows
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them to produce 100 gallons or less at a time; 99 gallons happens to be 3.14 barrels. Clever, very clever. Visit nickyvs.com.
Photo: Gabriella Marks
ALBUQUERQUE
| Nicole and Greg Villareal Speaking of pie, the edible kind, New Mexico Pie Company is open! Owner/pie maker Andrea Schulte will hold an open house May 6, featuring an assortment of freshly baked, handmade sweet and savory pies made with pure flavors and premium ingredients. The bakery and coffee/espresso shop’s signature pies include caramel apple green chile and cherry rhubarb streusel pies along with green chile bacon quiche and pie tarts, a delicious all-natural version of a Pop Tart. Schulte’s known for her work with sweets, having been a pastry chef for more than ten years at places like Disney World, The Scottsdale Princess Resort, The Ranchers Club, Hyatt Tamaya Resort, Marriott Pyramid Hotel and The St. James Tearoom. She has won numerous awards and competitions, including The New Mexico Chocolate Fantasy and the National Bacardi Classic, which she won for a plated dessert. Find her and her pies at 4003 Carlisle NE, and visit nmpiecompany.com. Mmmm, pie. Kudos to the Albuquerque Film Office, winner of the Outstanding Film Commission prize from the Location Managers Guild of America. Albuquerque beat out three southern California film commissions, as well as a group from Iceland. According to the organizers, the award recognizes the organization that rises above and beyond the call of duty. “It is no surprise to those of us who work closely with Ann Lerner and her hard working team at the Albuquerque Film Office, that they have been
A location featured in film (Terminator Salvation) and television (Breaking Bad, among others), the derelict Rail Yards, is getting new life as the Rail Yards Market beginning Sunday, May 4. This new Sunday market will run until November and will enliven the downtown rail yards with food, art and music. The opening ceremony at 9 a.m. that day features Circulo Solar Ollin Xochipilli, an Aztec dance group, blessing the endeavor. Visit railyardsmarket.org for details on the renovation of the Blacksmith Shop, one of the historic buildings on the 28.3-acre site that comprises the Rail Yards. Improvements include new glass, fire-suppression, roof repair, electric service and a 130-car parking lot just outside the shop’s front door where the market will be held. You can go from food to fashion downtown, if award-winning fashion designer Melissa Lea Beasley has her way. Beasley, who recently opened a studio in the Galleria, is hosting the first New Mexico Fashion Week, May 29 to 31 at the Albuquerque Convention Center. Co-sponsored with the city, the event showcases professional clothing and accessory designers from around the area. A trade component, runway show, market with juried booths offering the finest New Mexican, Southwest, and other American made fashion products, supplies and services, and a fashion photography contest. Proceeds from the event go toward a permanent location for Albuquerque Apparel Center School of Fashion Design. Visit newmexicofashionweek. com for complete details.
Photo: New Mexico Fashion Week
the buzz
awarded such a prestigious honor,” Mayor Richard Berry said in a statement. “The critical assistance they provide to the industry is a key reason Albuquerque is considered a great place for filmmaking.”
| Melissa Lea Beasley with Eva Chase
SANTA FE We’re excited for a new fine dining place to open, this time with a familiar face behind the stove. Brett Sparman, late of Luminaria at
Photo: Joy Godfrey
the Inn at Loretto, has been named Executive Chef at Georgia. This latest venture from Lloyd Abrams should be open by Memorial Day weekend in the shuttered O’Keeffe Café spot next to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum on Johnson Street. Georgia features a full bar, separate dining area and an amazing patio. “We’ll be doing modern American, very clean, simple food,” says Brett. “I’m definitely hoping to work closely with a lot of local farmers for seasonal food, balancing all of my experience and techniques. I’m creating a whole new thing here.” The menu will feature lunch and snacks like oysters, cheese plates, charcuterie and wine, with the primary focus on dinner. No website or phone as of press time.
| Chef Brett Sparman of Georgia And now, some new faces at a familiar location. Welcome to Galisteo Bistro’s new owners, Brant Keller and son Tomas Allan Keller, the new chef. The Keller men come to Santa Fe from Naples, FL, and Tomas is a Le Cordon Bleu graduate. “Between the two of us, we hope we can expand without messing up what Rob and Marge [Chickering, the former owners] created,” says Brant. “We wouldn’t buy the restaurant if we didn’t like what Rob and Marge did. Tomas (who is 23) brings some youthful energy. We’re going to make some tweaks to the menu, and bring in some seafood, some more diversified meats, including game. We want to open for lunch, too, offering a working person’s lunch and happy hour between lunch and dinner, featuring small plates at a discount.” Call 505.982.3700 for reservations. More on the culinary beat: Everyone needs a loyal hound, especially when it serves food. The Loyal Hound is a new gastropub serving everybody’s favorite foods: fried chicken, fish and chips, fried pork chops and the like. A collaboration between Renee Fox and husband Dave Readyhough, the Hound is designed to be local pub food with modern flair, in the old Hidden Chicken space on St. Michael’s Drive. Dave was most recently the General Manager at Rio Chama and has managed restaurants for Santa Fe Dining for 14 years (Sleeping Dog Tavern and Blue Corn Café). Renee’s a veteran of the Santa Fe food scene, working for Fiasco Fine Wine and previously GM of the Inn of the Anasazi and closed O’Keeffe Café. She’ll be behind the scenes at the Hound heading up menu and recipe development. “This is the kind of food that we want to eat when we go out,” Renee says. “It will be comfort food, a little eclectic. We’re hoping to open late May, serving lunch and dinner, closed on Sunday initially.” Call 505.690.3516 for hours. May’s the debut month for The Rancho De Chimayó Cookbook: The Traditional Cooking of New Mexico 50th Anniversary Edition, by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison. This beautiful full-color keepsake
cookbook celebrates the food and heritage of one of northern New Mexico’s signature restaurants, from the authors of 16 cookbook and travel guides, who write with passion and wit about the food and culture of the Southwest. They are among the nation’s mostlauded culinary professionals, with honors that include four James Beard awards. Congrats Jamisons! I’ll be heading to my local bookstore for sure. If you’ve been missing Marble Brewery’s now closed Plaza taproom, then head to 505 Cerrillos (the Luna complex next to Ohori’s Coffee and Talin Market)—Marble’s new space with a patio balcony that’s ideal for sipping and people watching—on May 18 for its grand-reopening. Part of Outside Magazine’s Bike and Brew Fest, May 15 to 18, this promises to be a celebration of craftbeer culture at venues around town (including Dr. Field Goods, Coyote Café and Cowgirl), as well as exceptional road and mountain biking. The Festival features music from Cedric Burnside and local Alex Maryol, activities including the 29th Annual Santa Fe Century bike ride, as well as kinder, gentler cruises to the local brewpub, art, music, film, bike-in movies and bowling. For complete details, visit outsidesantafe.com. Participating in Bike and Brew will be Blue Corn Cafe’s new head brewer James Warden, he of the diploma in Brewing Science and Engineering from the American Brewers Guild. Meet him and sample some of his first specialty creations on Blue Corn’s downtown patio on May 16 during their Bike and Brew party.
8917 4th St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
aWF
505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
Albuquerque wine fest May 24 thru
MeMoriAl dAy weekend May 26
| James Warden of Blue Corn
The closure is only temporary, but it was sad to see Tecolote Café shut its doors last month, especially since this New Mexican eatery has been one of Santa Fe’s most popular breakfast joints since 1980. Owner K.T. Adkins is on the hunt for a new spot for Tecolote and, based on the outpouring of support on social media, is sure to find one soon. I have often dreamed about the Tecolote bakery basket (no toast!), Sheepherder’s breakfast and their top-notch service. Watch their Facebook page for a big announcement when K.T. and crew reopen their doors. Spring has sprung at the Purple Adobe Lavender Farm in Abiquiu, and you can help them celebrate the 2014 season on May 17 and 18. The festivities include the opening of the Lavender Tea House where visitors can enjoy lavender infused teas, coffees and scones, and learn about this healing plant. Owner Elizabeth Inman and her staff proudly dedicate themselves to growing the finest organic lavender in New Mexico, which they harvest, sell and steam-distill for their full line of bath and body products, culinary lavender and herb blends, candles, sachets and more in their Lavender Shoppe. Visit purpleadobelavenderfarm.com for directions and details on this sweet endeavor.
live entertAinMent | new Mexico wines | food vendors | Arts & crAfts
MAy 24-26 | noon - 6 pM dAily $20 Adult Includes Souvenir Glass Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta Park | Use Balloon Fiesta Parkway entry Sp o n S o r e d b y:
Like us! (575) 522-1232 Buy tickets in advance at www.ABQwineFestival.com
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
MAY 2014
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the buzz Speaking of hospitality, Corey Fidler has been promoted to General Manager at Hotel Santa Fe The Hacienda and Spa. After a career of more than 20 years that includes time as the beverage director at the Eldorado Hotel and helming both Food & Beverage and IT at Hotel Santa Fe, Fidler was appointed to the GM’s position last month.
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We love Axle Contemporary, the gallery on wheels, and look forward to eating its latest exhibition, The Royal Breadshow. Yes, eating! Opening Friday, May 2, 5 to 7 p.m. at SITE Santa Fe, and running through May 11, The Royal Breadshow displays 200 miniature porcelain sculptures from dozens of professional and amateur artists, the result of clay sculpture workshops around the city. Beginning May 16, local bakeries Cloud Cliff, Panaderia y Tortilleria Sani, Intergalactic Baking Bread Company and Chocolate Maven will bake the miniature sculptures into special festive loaves, available for purchase at the Farmers Market, the bakeries and at Axle Contemporary. Each loaf will be accompanied by a paper crown with a special laudatory word and writings about bread. Proceeds from the sales of loaves will be donated to local organizations that feed the hungry. More information at axelart.com. On May 3 the Santa Fe Master Gardener Association hosts the 10th annual Spring Garden Fair at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds. This free event includes exciting speakers, demos and exhibits, tool sharpening, food and the “Ask A Master Gardener” station. Youngsters will have fun at the Junior Gardener Corner, while a “Garden Shop” browse might discover a treasure! Of course, it’s the best plant sale in Santa Fe, too. Visit SFMGA.org for more. Dave Grusin, part-time Santa Fean and full-time composer, conductor, musician and jazz legend, will be starring in a benefit concert for the Santa Fe Waldorf School at the James A. Little Theater on May 22. This once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see an extraordinary musician promises not only to be a sell-out crowd, but a historic event showcasing the talents of Grusin’s “Friends” with local jazz pianist John Rangel and two other well-known musicians: Seattle’s Michael Glynn and Ryan L. Lee from
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5:09 PM
SOUTHWESTERN SPRING
Kansas City. Vocals will be performed by Waldorf School’s Choir Director and jazz artist, Barbara Bentree. Tickets at 505.988.1234.
The Anasazi Patio Opening May 1st
| Celebrated musician Dave Grusin
Al fresco drinks & casual dining on the Plaza. Small plate menu with full bar & wine selections
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The Anasazi Restaurant & Bar
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Fusing Southwestern and Argentinean flavors to create a unique dining experience.
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Live music every Saturday evening
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Also taking on a new role is Randy Randall, this time as executive director of the Santa Fe Convention and Visitor’s Bureau. Randall’s more than 45 years’ experience includes ten years as GM of the Eldorado Hotel, board service for the American Hotel and Lodging Association, chairing the New Mexico Lodging Association and a stint as a tourism commissioner for the State of New Mexico.
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S AVO R I N G A
Photo: jazzchicago.net
The readers of USA Today have spoken. Santa Fe has been rated the No. 1 girls’ getaway. To which we say, of course! Between the shopping, art and culture, world-class restaurants, hotels to meet any budget, renowned spas, live music and stellar natural environment, what’s not to like? Oh, husbands, boyfriends and men are generally welcome, too.
0514 iota lf.pdf
May’s also the month to learn to spice up your food, courtesy of Savory Spice Shop. Learn about curries, both vegetarian- and meat-focused in two separate classes. And join the two Kates, Kate Collins, owner of Grapeful Fine Wine and Spirits Consulting, and Savory Spice Shop owner, Kate Wheeler, for an effervescent evening of champagne and hors d’oeuvres on May 23. Taste eight to ten fine sparkling wines and true Champagnes that accompany five to six appetizers. Space is limited in all classes, so call 505.819.5659 to RSVP.
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Private dining available
A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi 113 Washington Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-3236 · rosewoodhotels.com
TAOS May 17 from noon to 4 p.m. is the Sixth Annual Taos Bike Swap, and this time it’s at one of Taos’ newest burger joints, The Burger Stand @ Taos Ale House, 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. What’s better than a burger and a beer? The opportunity to dust off your old ride and clean out the shed! Vendors will set up in the parking lot that day to show off their wares, and 20 percent of sales goes to benefit TEAM FITaos, an all-ages and abilities, inclusive local cycling team. The Burger Stand recently opened with a diverse selection of small-batch, handcrafted beer and eclectic and delicious burgers, gourmet hot dogs, vegetarian options and kid-friendly fare in a family welcome environment. Night owls will appreciate food served until 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday music, too. Call 575.758.5522 for info. May sees the opening of a Harwood Museum of Art exhibition of 121 works donated by Gus Foster, an avid art collector and Museum supporter, from May 17–Sept. 7, 2014. In 2013, Foster donated a remarkable collection of 391 contemporary works of art by 83 artists to the Museum. The Museum also plans to publish a 96-page color catalog featuring an essay by Evan M. Maurer, Director Emeritus of the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. “Of the more than 300 pieces, only three or four were done by people that I didn’t know personally,” Foster said. “I have seen and followed their careers as friends and neighbors for over four decades, and that gives you some insight into their creative process. Though my work isn’t part of this gift, all of these works have informed my own vision.” Beginning on May 18, professionally trained docents will lead tours of “Highlights from the Gus Foster Collection” every Sunday at 1 p.m. through Sept. 7. Visit harwoodmuseum. org for more.
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Weddings Event Planning Banquets Meetings Culture
Indian Pueblo Cultural Center • Capacity for up to 400 • On site catering • Free parking • Indoor/Outdoor space • In the heart of Albuquerque
Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner - Drinks Patio Dining - Live Music 326 S. Guadalupe • 988-7008 • www.ziadiner.com
Locally Sourced European Influenced and Utterly Delicious Reserve early for Mothers’ Day! Open all day everyday | Rodeo Rd at Zia | 505-471-3800 | joesdining.com
Celebrate May with a Fine Rosé Everything’s Coming Up Rosés...
10% off all Rosés, Still & Sparkling Offer good May 2014, must be 750ml or larger, and can not to be combined with any other offer.
Wine a little...You’ll feel better! In the Crossroads Center St Francis at Cerrillos Mon-Sat 10am-8pm • (505) 984-1582
A new senior lifestyle is coming to Rio Rancho with apartment styles and amenities not offered in other area communities. The Neighborhood is scheduled to open in 2015, giving you time to consider how beautiful your future can be. But you must act now. A new information center is now open at 4500 Arrowhead Ridge Drive SE in Rio Rancho (one block west of the intersection of Highway 528 on Ridgecrest Drive SE). Reservations are now being taken for when the apartments become available for occupancy.
To arrange for your visit, please call Ashley Trujillo at (505) 994-2266.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
MAY 2014
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The Art of Celebrating at La Posada
The New Mexico Biopark Society & Seattle Fish Company of New Mexico present
Our Patio is Now Open Mother’s Day Brunch
Sustainable
Sunday, May 11 An extravagant Mother’s Day brunch with both traditional and new favorites, a Bloody Mary bar and more. Roses for mom and special Sense Clothing Trunk Show and prize drawing. $55 for adults; $44 for seniors; $25 for children; aged 5 and under are free.
SEAFOOD FESTIVAL ABQ BioPark Aquarium Plaza 6:00pm - 8:30pm
Not including tax and gratuity
FEATURING:
Seafood Sampling
Taste of the Wild • Màs Tapas y Vino at Hotel Andaluz Forque Kitchen & Bar at Hyatt Regency • Farm & Table Santa Ana Café at Hyatt Regency Tamaya • Pelican’s Ranchers Club of NM • Bein Shur at Sandia Casino Elaine’s • La Merienda at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & MORE!
WINE SAMPLING by: National Distributing Co. ENTERTAINMENT by: Reviva!
Treat mom on her special day with a spa gift certificate. She’ll want to try our Rose Neroli Aromatherapy Massage with special gift!
Live Music Cooking Demos
DESSERTS by:
Weekdays Restaurant • Nothing Bundt Cakes Chocolate Cartel & VR Bros Gelato
Mother’s Day Gift Certificates
Bene ABQ B fiting the ioPark Aquari $ um
50 REG Tickets
• $75
availab le
VIP
online
LA
PO S A D A
DE
S A N TA FE
R ESO RT & S PA
TM
A ROCKRESORT
Call 505-986-0000 or visit OpenTable.com 330 E. Palace Avenue, Santa Fe • laposadadesantafe.com
107 YEARS
WRIGHT’S INDIAN ART W R I G H T S G A L L E RY. C O M
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(505) 266-0120 | (866) 372-1042 2677 Louisiana Blvd NE Albuquerque, NM 87110
story by ERIN BROOKS photos by KITTY LEAKEN
Coffee Different in the City Different
It’s what gets us out of bed in the morning and what picks us up in the afternoon. It’s with you in the office and the classroom and here next to me while I write. It’s as ubiquitous as eggs and toast, and a ritual that’s easy to take for granted, but if you’re a coffee drinker there’s nothing quite like a full-to-the-brim, steaming and fragrant cup of joe. And luckily for us, the culture of coffee in our country isn’t what it used to be. Coffee culture as we know it in America began with Folgers instant coffee crystals. In the 1960s, Peet’s Coffee & Tea introduced darker roasts and espresso drinks, a trend that was followed by Starbucks. The current “third wave” of coffee emphasizes craftsmanship and treats coffee as an artisanal product like wine, rather than a commodity. Connoisseurs of coffee are concerned with the entire process behind the beverage, including specific varieties and cultivars of beans, direct trade with growers, roasting and the art of the barista. Santa Fe has been on board with the trend for serious coffee, and our city is home to some pretty fantastic independently owned coffee shops. I spent a day visiting some of the newest shops around town and had an amazing time meeting the people behind Santa Fe’s seriously good coffee.
Arroyo Coffeebar Tucked into a corner of the El Centro shopping center located on the corner of East Water Street and Shelby Street, Arroyo Coffeebar might seem obscure. But as owner Chuck Malody points out, “It’s only obscure the first time.” That’s because it’s a place you’re likely to frequent once you’ve made your first visit. Judging by the size of the shop—four small tables inside and five more on the outdoor patio that looks across Shelby to Tanti Luce Restaurant—you would never guess that two major players in the food and beverage industry are behind the venture. Chuck is a mixologist who worked in the wine industry and was later recruited as one of the original sales managers for Starbucks. His wife Karen was a former food and beverage director for Starbucks and is also an experienced caterer. The pair lived in Seattle until moving to Santa Fe last year, opening Arroyo Coffeebar in November. “I don’t want to reinvent the coffee wheel,” Chuck says. “That’s why I called Arroyo a coffeebar. What we’re about isn’t the coffee bean or the roast, but about making coffee drinks.” He wants Arroyo to be a casual shop, where people stop in for a quick cup of coffee and a bite to eat. Chuck’s approach to brewing reflects his perspective that coffee should be delicious and without pretense. He uses one blend of beans, which he purchases from Red Rock Roasters in Albuquerque, and all of his coffee is cold press, which means the grounds are soaked overnight in cold water for a slow extraction. A measure of this cold press concentrate is added to hot water for a unique cup of coffee that’s smooth, soft, round and mellow in flavor. If you’re looking for something a bit stronger, Chuck will whip you up an espresso drink, but don’t reach for the sugar and milk—my Americano was great just black. Although Arroyo Coffeebar is very small and has no real kitchen, Karen has employed a short list of ingredients and cooking gear (like a small conveyor oven) for a creative menu that includes made-to-order sandwiches, wraps, soups and salads. I was impressed with the Maui ham-and-cheese sandwich on toasty sourdough with sweet pineapple mustard, thin-sliced red onion and fresh lettuce and tomato. Chuck hopes Arroyo Coffeebar will become a hot spot for locals looking for a quick breakfast or lunch, and with a winning combination of great coffee, food and service—Chuck is super friendly and personable and is always behind the counter—I suspect it will become just that. Arroyo Coffee Bar, 102 East Water Street, Santa Fe, with an alley entrance on Selby Avenue. 505.795.7655. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Iconik Coffee Roasters I can’t help but smile when I walk into a crowded Iconik Coffee Roasters to meet Natalie Slade and Todd Spitzer, two of the owners of this new gathering place on Lena Street (Natalie’s brother Darren Berry is the third owner). The shop is located just a couple blocks from Second Street. In the first ten minutes, I hear songs by Modest Mouse, Neil Young and Johnny Cash. I see several folks I know and make my way around the room to say hello. The vibe is eclectic, highlighted by the furniture, much of which was built or repurposed by the owners themselves. There are funky colorful couches and armchairs, a wooden community table with old schoolhouse chairs, a plant wall and even a chandelier. Off to one side sits a 1927 Otto Swadlo coffee roaster. “We are intentionally trying to raise the coffee bar in Santa Fe and in the Southwest,” Todd explains as we sit together at a high table. “There’s been a food revolution in the last few years, and this is just part of it—better coffee, better tea.” I’m sipping on a pot of genmaicha tea, some of the best I’ve had. “You don’t get a quick cup here,” he says. “It’s all brewed, one at a time. It’s about the art of the bean and the art of the barista. We train our baristas to the international barista competition standards and we only do drinks that are on that list. So a cappuccino is never more than six ounces.” (You can forget about that grande iced sugar-free vanilla latte with soymilk.) For the same reason, the food menu at Iconik is selective. “The menu’s small on purpose,” Natalie explains. “It’s to accompany your coffee and not the other way around.” What makes Iconik unique, apart from its décor, is the coffee itself—beans are roasted in-house with the Otto Swadlo. The roaster provides unique coffee for the patrons of Iconik, but it also provides another source of income for the owners. “When you’re running a café, there are very slim margins,” Todd explains. “And what most people don’t understand is that to run a small business anywhere is insanely expensive, and there’s very little room for error.” With their own roaster, Iconik is able to sell coffee to stores and restaurants, both locally and nationally. So far, Iconik coffee can be found at Izanami, Cowgirl, Dr. Field Goods, Ristra and Collected Works, among others. Educating people about coffee is also part of the mission at Iconik, and I’m looking forward to coffee classes in the future. In May, Todd and Darren will be teaming up with the Santa Fe Culinary Academy for a coffee workshop where they’ll teach all about the bean, including varietals, tasting, roasting and blending. Iconik Coffee Roasters, 1600 Lena Street, Santa Fe, 505.428.0996. iconikcoffee.com.
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The Betterday Coffee Shop The Betterday Coffee Shop in the Solana Center is laid back and down-to-earth, with plain white walls, wooden tables and a counter made from concrete and corrugated metal. In one corner there’s a stage for live music and on the opposite wall at the other end of the shop is a transparent roll-up door, flooding the space with plenty of light. It’s definitely got its own vibe, but what makes Betterday truly unique is the man behind the counter. Speaking with Tom Frost, who opened the shop in 2012, would make anyone excited to drink coffee. He’s passionate about the subject and knows all about the process, from the harvesting of the beans to the exact components and proper technique of making specific coffee drinks. He explains that tasting coffee is very similar to tasting wine. “The way you talk about your palate is the same,” he emphasizes. “We’re analyzing coffee on the same level—coffee should be analyzed on that level.” As Tom talks, he makes cappuccinos and lattes for customers coming in from the busy shopping center. He’s precise with each step, the steamed milk thick and glossy. He layers the milk with the espresso, creating a symmetrical pattern on the surface of the finished drink. “Just like brewing is an art, making the milk for espresso, making cappuccinos and lattes, that’s an art,” he explains. “We’re making micro foam. Tiny air bubbles integrated into the milk, brought to the right temperature. There’s this magical thing that happens with the milk when you do that. It becomes sweeter.” We taste with our eyes first, and the cappuccino Tom makes for me, with its beautiful pattern of milk on top, is absolutely delicious. He says of the design, “Latte art is like proof that you did it right.” Like the folks at Iconik, Tom is concerned with the entire process of coffee from bean to cup. He’s definitely part of the newest wave of coffee culture, which he says is more concerned with origin than roast. “It’s the roaster’s job to bring out the flavor of the coffee,” Tom says. “He’s a steward of the coffee,” he continues. “He’s trying to find the flavors that are in the coffee and roast according to what brings out those flavors.” All the coffee at Betterday comes from Sumptown Coffee Roasters, a locally owned coffee shop and roaster based in Portland, Ore., that practices direct trade with coffee growers. I ask Tom why he chose to open in the Solana Center. “Mostly for the neighborhood around it,” he says. “Coffee shops should be local,” he adds, echoing Chuck Malody at Arroyo Coffeebar. Food selection at Betterday is small because the coffee takes center stage. “The idea is that you try not to do everything,” Tom says about the menu. “You do certain things and you do them well.” I believe he’s got the right idea—and I’ll definitely be back for another cappuccino. The Betterday Coffee Shop, 905 West Alameda Street, Santa Fe. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Homemade Yogurt
story by GAIL SNYDER
Y
ogurt famously splashed into mainstream American consciousness sometime in the early to mid-’60s as a health food, along with granola, juicing and whole-wheat everything. I had a yogurt maker back then, a simple little electric heating platform that held four cute porcelain dishes, each with its own fitted glass lid. You could monitor the milk’s progress without disturbing the process; as it got closer to being yogurt, lots of water vapor collected inside the lids. The procedure, essentially as simple now as it was then, is to add a small amount of commercial yogurt to the milk of your choice and leave it in a warm place to incubate. 1 quart whole milk (or low-fat, non-fat, unsweetened soy milk, goat’s milk)
How To:
In the meantime, commercial yogurt has morphed into less of a healthy food and more into a vehicle for loads of sugar, preservatives and hormones. Simultaneously, we’re beginning to better understand the important role probiotic organisms play in helping maintain the natural balance of microflora in our guts— and yogurt, the organic, probiotic kind, is high in these “good” microorganisms. So why not make your own? You’ll not only avoid all the additives, your homemade yogurt will be of clearly superior quality: creamier, cleaner.
1/4 cup plain whole milk probiotic yogurt (that is: containing live, active cultures) In a heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the milk, stirring gently to prevent scorching, until it reaches 185° on a thermometer (candy thermometer or an instant-read type). Remove milk from heat, keeping the thermometer in the pot. When the milk cools to 115°, pour a cup of milk into a small bowl and gently stir in the yogurt, whisking briefly. When it’s smooth, stir back into the pan of milk. Now comes the incubation period. The milk needs to stay at around 110° (no lower) until it has set. One excellent suggestion is to warm your oven to 115°, then turn the oven off, put the lid on your Dutch oven or saucepan and wrap it in several towels to insulate it. Place in oven and watch the time. Another method is to pour the mixture into a sterilized 32-ounce glass jar and keep it in a warm spot, covered, in your kitchen. At 4 hours for the oven method, 10 hours for the jar, taste the yogurt. It will be creamy and loosely set. If you like this texture, your yogurt is done. For a thicker, tangier consistency, let yogurt sit an additional 3 to 5 hours. Leave in its original container and refrigerate for at least 3 hours before eating. Separate into smaller containers; leave plain or add honey, fruit, maple syrup, vanilla flavoring—experiment! Makes 1 quart of yogurt that lasts about 2 weeks refrigerated. For your next batch, save out 1/4 cup of your plain homemade yogurt as the starter.
© Sergii Korshun | Dreamstime.com
For Greek yogurt:
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Line a medium-large bowl with a piece of cheesecloth big enough to enclose two cups of your homemade yogurt. Put it into the center of the cloth, gather the four corners of the cloth together, lift the yogurt over the bowl and twist the corners to squeeze out the liquid to drain through the cloth until most of the surface liquid is drained and it’s now dripping more slowly. Tie the cloth just above the yogurt with string, place into a colander or strainer inside a bowl (don’t let it touch bottom). Refrigerate the bowl and continue to drain another 2 to 3 hours. Remove the cloth containing yogurt, place it in the sink (don’t untie it yet) and squeeze out any remaining liquid with your hands. Then remove the string and, using a spatula, scrape the yogurt into a bowl. It will be extra-thick and delicious, the consistency of sour cream or thicker.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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The best in world, folk & eclectic music
www.ampconcerts.org Tickets: Hold My Ticket (112 2nd St SW), 505-886-1251 and ampconcerts.org, 505-232-9868
Jesse 8
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Cook KiMo Theatre Thurs, May 8 7:30 pm
More Great ShowS! Sunday, May 4 @ 7 pm
TerakafT and SihaSin The Dirty Bourbon
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auSTin Piazzolla QuinTeT
(of Concrete Blonde)
Free CoNCertS Oumar KOnaté
Outpost Performance Space Mon, May 26 - 8 pm
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CrySTal BowerSox
26 Johnette
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Wednesday, May 7 @ 7:30 pm Outpost Performance Space
Thursday, May 15 @ 7:30 pm
oumar konaTé The Cooperage
Friday, May 23 @ 7:30 pm
Robertson & Sons Violin Shop
Thurs, May 15 - Ernie Pyle Library - 12pm
austin PiazzOlla Quintet
Fri, May 23 - Lomas Tramway Library - 12pm
Burqueños Queremos Más! s t o r y b y K AT E G E R W I N
photos by JOY GODFREY
O
ften referred to as foodies, winos, oenophiles or perhaps bon vivants, a growing culture of hedonists is on the hunt for a unique voyage with virtually every dining and imbibing experience.
For many, it typically began with one moment. A moment when the light bulb was turned on and food and drink were encountered in a way never anticipated. I will always remember my “aha” moment. It was a dinner in Monterey, Calif., where a knowledgeable sommelier took a few moments to teach a rookie how to dine. With one perfect pairing of Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes and seared foie gras, as cheesy as it sounds, my life was forever changed. For the rest of my days, I would continue to search for that perfect pairing of food and drink, on some levels, with every meal. I mean, who doesn’t love a glass of cold milk accompanied by warm, melty chocolate chip cookies? I have been blessed throughout my life with a multitude of these moments of culinary perfection. At times, it may have been the company or the environment adding a little push to make the particular experience one for the books. Most often it was the harmonious marriage of food and wine that made it a cherished memory. I owe quite a few of these moments to one chef in particular, James Campbell Caruso. His passion for Spanish tapas and his remarkable talent for pairing them with one of the world’s most food friendly and underappreciated wines
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Chef James Campbell Caruso of Más A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Queremos Más! has created some of the most significant and extraordinary stops along my path down the “rabbit hole.” The wine I am referring to is sherry, a fortified wine made from white grapes grown in Andalusia, Spain. First, let me clear any confusion right off the bat; the mass-produced cooking sherry often found in the cupboard above the stove is a far cry from the Finos, Manzanillas, Palo Cortados and other styles of sherries that are worshiped by connoisseurs across the globe. They range from dry, crisp pourings reminiscent of sitting on a beach, smelling the sea-salted breeze to rich, syrupy wine that is packed with aromas of figs, raisins, coffee and chocolate. Chef James is a true aficionado. His knowledge of sherries is unsurpassed in New Mexico and he is known throughout the country not only for his talents in the kitchen, but for his precise ability to play matchmaker to the marriage of these wines with Spanish cuisine. Chef James has been chosen twice by the Sherry Council of America to compete in the Copa Jerez International Food and Sherry Pairing Competition. Only four chefs across the nation are chosen for the honor, and only every two years. Santa Feans have been blessed with Chef James as a respected part of their community for years, and recently he has expanded his territory south with the opening of Más – Tapas y Vino in downtown Albuquerque. The Duke City has been waiting with baited breath for a place like this, and Chef James couldn’t have timed it better. The Albuquerque food scene has been on a rise and New Mexico’s top chefs are among many now fully recognizing the potential the city has to offer with its metropolitan population, growing film industry and expanding cultural community. “I have always loved Albuquerque,” explained Chef James. “I lived here when I first moved to New Mexico, and I have wanted to open a restaurant here ever since.” Más occupies the former Lucia in the Hotel Andaluz, located on the corner of Second Street and Copper. The hotel (which turns 75 this year) and Chef James are a perfect pairing. The hotel name itself, Andaluz, is a short form of Andalusia, a region in Spain from which the hotel design was inspired––the same region which produces the white grapes famous for the production of sherry and where Chef James spent time studying and learning the cuisine for which he is famous. The lobby of the hotel features a mezzanine-style centerpiece to the hotel with a large fountain, local art and six “casbahs” (intimate cabana-style arched rooms separated from the lobby by curtains that can be reserved by guests for a social gathering of friends to feast on the delectable tapas Chef James has designed for Más). If the comfortable couches of the casbahs aren’t what you seek, just off the lobby is a recently expanded bar and the main dining room of Más, where the real magic happens. The brightly colored carrot garbanzo hummus and beet walnut spread on the mezze plate is a work of art on its own. Chef James rotates the menu seasonally, and the tender sautéed calamari with a broth of fresh vegetables is a light and welcome alternative to the fried calamari I typically find at other restaurants. I was ecstatic to learn that Chef ’s new menu would lighten up on the entrée section and focus more on tapas. I was curious if Albuquerque would embrace the smaller portion concept of tapas and was pleased to hear from him that the tapas were the most popular menu items and that Burqueños are embracing the versatility and social advantages of a small plates menu. Whether dining on the rooftop patio bar, Ibiza, the dining room of Más, the casbahs or the in-room dining services of the Hotel Andaluz, Chef James’ modern twist on the classic Spanish dishes easily adapt to whatever guests’ desires may be. I’ve looked to Chef James for everything from a light snack paired with a dry Manzanilla sherry, to a full multi-course voyage wrapping up with Pedro Ximenez sherry, made with grapes dried in the sun to intensify the flavor and sweetness of the wine, then fortified and aged. I am never disappointed. New Mexicans are not the only ones who acknowledge and appreciate the talents of Chef James Campbell Caruso. Over the last decade, he has been nominated for eight, yes eight, James Beard Awards. This is like the Academy Awards of the restaurant industry and one of the highest honors a chef can achieve. He is nominated again this year (among a total of ten nominations for the state) and I know I am not the only one hopeful to see him win the honor of 2014 Best Chef in the Southwest. Chef James has been welcomed into Albuquerque’s community with open arms, and when talking to him, you can see the eager anticipation he has for the region and what he can contribute. “The CNM culinary program is expanding next door,” he informs me with a smile. “I have access to the new culinary talents New Mexico has growing within its community. I am looking to forage relationships with more local farmers and feature as many local ingredients as I can. I am hosting tapas and sherry pairing dinners here at Más. I have a lot more I want to do here in Albuquerque.” And boy, are we lucky for that. Más is situated in the Hotel Andaluz at 125 2nd Street NW in Albuquerque. 505.242.9090. hotelandaluz.com. 20
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Top to bottom: Calamari and squid with bacon, pickled red peppers and aged sherry vinegar. Pisto Manchego. Mezze with three vegetable spreads and lavash.
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Let’s Make Lasagna! Lasagna gardening is a technique gaining in popularity, especially for those of us living in high-desert terrain. It’s drought-tolerant, requiring minimal watering, for one thing; also, in preparing the bed, you won’t be trying to hack and whack your way through dry, hardpacked caliche and bedrock because with lasagna gardening, you’re literally building new soil from the ground up. In
her straightforwardly titled book Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding!, author Patricia Lanza lays out the fundamentals for the simple, effective—and fun—technique she developed about 20 years ago. It incorporates levels of nitrogen and carbon, which together produce the energy and organisms essential for organic plant and soil health. You can be creative with the materials you use, as long as you follow the rule of Lanza’s recommended ratio, which is two inches of carbon-rich “lasagna levels” interspersed with one inch of nitrogen-rich materials.
How To:
story by GAIL SNYDER
First, outline your plot area, to be determined by what you’re planting and the amount of sun and shade your plants require. Lay newspaper pages in stacks of six to ten, or one thickness of corrugated cardboard, overlapping the edges, across the entire area of your garden, liberally soaking this whole initial bottom layer with water (this will kill weeds and attract earthworms). Now you begin to build your lasagna, interspersing the layers and watering each one as you finish it. Start with a nitrogen layer. Materials for this include green plant material (grass clippings, old cornstalks and the like), and food-based materials such as you would ordinarily compost: fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, animal manure. Steer clear of meat and any type of fats. Your carbon layers are composed of any dry, dead yard materials, including dry leaves, straw or hay, small twigs and wood chips, along with newspapers. Make sure your material is free of seeds so unwanted plants don’t sprout up. Continue to layer until your bed is 1 to 2 feet tall. The mound will shrink as materials within it break down and are absorbed by the soil. It’s a good idea to cover the newly composed bed for the first two weeks under a sheet of plastic in order to protect the top layers from wind (a big consideration in New Mexico!) and to provide extra heat to encourage the decomposition process to begin. You can build a lasagna garden bed any time of the year. Fall is good for gardeners not immediately ready to plant; then you can let your lasagna “cook” as it over-winters and begin your planting in the spring. Or, in the case of high-desert gardening, as spring temperatures begin warming the air, ushering us rapidly into summertime heat, you can do it now and then plant immediately after the two-week plastic sheet incubation period—just be sure to finish off with a carbon layer as you complete the lasagna and water it heavily. Then add three inches of compost directly on top of the straw, water again and it’s ready. Because this type of garden bed resembles a sponge, water is retained much longer than it is in a standard garden bed. For those of us struggling with the challenges of rising food prices versus our consciences over pouring so much water into what our conventional gardens require, this is good news. Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding! by Patricia Lanza.
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Let’s Ride! story by GORDON BUNKER photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
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T
oward the end of the ride, I stop at a traffic light and in my mirror I see Jason rolling up behind me. I raise my visor and when he pulls beside me, I give him a salute and exclaim, “It’s a fine day!” He gives a nod and has a big smile on his face. The light turns green and he gasses it. I relish the rising pitch of the exhaust note from his bike as he accelerates and quickly slips into the distance and out of sight. But that smile. That’s what stays with me. It’s what motorcycling is all about.
. . . Would I get in a car (a.k.a., sled, cage, coffin) and drive 100 miles for a cup of coffee? Flatly, no. But ride a motorcycle? Oh, there is no question, in a heartbeat, yes! And so it comes as no surprise, my friends Andy Caperones, Service Manager at Santa Fe BMW, and Jason Aufrichtig, owner of Counter Culture Café, do not hesitate when I pitch this to them: Let’s meet at Counter Culture for breakfast, ride Route 14 to Cedar Crest for a coffee at Dawn’s and come home. Jason sends me an email stating, simply, “Let’s moto!” He has it pegged. It’s a brisk Saturday morning when I head for Counter Culture, but I have the secret weapon––an electrically heated vest under my jacket. Think vest-shaped electric blanket that plugs into the motorcycle’s charging system. With the equivalent of a dimmer switch, I can dial it in from simmer to charbroil. Over the course of the morning, Andy and Jason comment about being cold. Sitting in a 60-plus mile-per-hour wind when the temp hovers around 50 degrees does in fact take the heat out of you. But I just grin. I am toasty and happy. Arriving at Counter Culture I notice Andy and Jason’s bikes parked together, so I slip into the space with them. The crew is gathered at a table, already into the joe. Andy has a new helmet that he is in the process of custom painting, but the shimmering coat of silver metallic we ogle over is just the beginning. We check it out; it’s one nice piece of kit, top of the line from Italy. We fall into conversation about roads and bikes. Like what else? Oh, and before anyone gives me grief, yes, we all ride BMWs. I’ve been accused of writing brochures for BMW, which I’ve never done, but what can I say? I’m a fan. For this story we tried to get a Harley rider in the mix, but those we knew were either unavailable or their bikes weren’t running. Motorcycling is many things to many people, but for all enthusiasts it’s an opportunity to be a little daring, get out in wide-open spaces and focus on something other than… everything else. To do it well and with a margin of safety, the rider must be totally focused on the task of driving the motorcycle. This is a big part of the attraction, especially for those of us with demanding lives. Jason’s owned and operated Counter Culture for 17 years, and on top of it, he also co-owns, with his brother Nathan, three Pizza Centro locations in Santa Fe.
“I don’t really ride much with other riders,” says Jason. “It’s by myself… I enjoy having that open space and becoming part of that element of feeling and smelling and being part of it all.” Even though Jason’s taking the morning off, he’s keeping an eye on the hustle and bustle in the café. It’s busy as always, and seeing to the 101 things that must come up every day has to be intense. “Riding brings it back down,” he says. Being Service Manager at Santa Fe BMW presents its own unique set of demands and Andy is a pro at handling them. The shop services both motorcycles and cars. He oversees eight technicians doing everything from oil changes to the most complex repairs, and with BMWs, even an oil change can be pretty involved. On a typical day, the shop resembles Counter Culture. It’s a beehive, non-stop, no slacking, no slackers. I admire these guys for their hard work––their respective businesses just wouldn’t be so successful if customers weren’t happy. Motorcycling for Andy goes back to early childhood. “I’m privileged to have a picture of the first mini-bike I ever rode,” he says. “My mom took the picture.” His grandfather gave him the bike, fully equipped with
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a lawnmower engine and pull start. Would I ever like to see that picture! Andy has a gleam in his eye when he talks about riding. No matter what, he’s jazzed about it. “You keep going further and further and further,” he says. “You just keep taking that experience and that wonderment and once you get used to it, you got to take it to another level.” Having known Andy for over ten years, I’ve seen this; there’s been a steady progression of performance in the bikes he’s owned and he’s never shied away from using it. Being aware of Andy’s progression of starting on a mini-bike with a lawnmower engine to the rocket ship he rides now, I look forward to where this goes. The sun is shining and the temperature is climbing, if slowly. Sufficiently fortified and caffeinated (thanks, Jason), there’s a lull in the conversation. We’re all thinking the same thing: let’s get on those bikes and ride. Northern New Mexico is heaven for motorcycling. Some roads are the makings of moto-legend. In my travels, I’ve talked with riders who’ve never even been here, but know about specific routes. I’ve talked with folks who live in congested East Coast metropolitan areas who tell of having to ride half a day or more just to get to a place where it becomes enjoyable. Pardon me,
Jason Aufrichtig, Andy Caperones and Gordon Bunker A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Let’s Ride!
If you’re interested in reading more of Gordon Bunker’s moto-exploits, please read The Making of a Motorcyclist––a Memoir. Available from your local bookseller (signed copies and great cappuccino at The Good Stuff, in Santa Fe) and Amazon.com. Want to hit the road? Visit localflavormagazine.com for three of Gordon Bunker’s favorite northern New Mexico routes.
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African & Caribbean Cuisine
11am - 9pm Monday - Saturday • Closed Sunday 2010 Cerrillos Road ( near Hobby Lobby ) ( 505 ) 473-1269 • jambocafe.net
Wendy McEahern
but YUK! Here, we are indeed blessed. In ten minutes we are out of town, heading south on Route 14. The landscape opens up and we cruise at a relaxed pace. Photographer Gabriella Marks wants to get shots en-route, and flying past her at Mach II would be no help. And good thing, as a Santa Fe County Sheriff falls in line behind us. Andy is bringing up the rear and his bike begs, shouts, “Arrest me!” So he’s in the hot seat and slows way down. After a couple of miles, good fortune smiles upon us and the sheriff pulls onto a side road. We continue south with me in the lead, and we approach those curves between Cerrillos and Madrid. They are just too good, so I pick up the pace. Jason and Andy hang with me and we fly. What fun! Big grins! When conditions and road come together, when you get your speed and lines through the bends just right, the bike feels like an extension of your body. It’s poetry in motion and we’re in the groove. Puttering through Madrid, the town is swarming with motorcyclists and it looks like they’re setting up for some kind of rally. For me, six is a crowd, and my sense is Andy and Jason fall into a similar camp. So we keep moving. Well, except Gabriella has us stop in front of Maggie’s Diner for photos. Jason will rib me later, “Wouldn’t it be funny if you became the poster child for Wild Hogs?” Andy thinks this is the funniest thing he’s heard in years. Oh yeah, real funny, guys! Where there are hills there are curves, and so we then peel our way up into the Ortiz Mountains. We roll it on, the bikes respond, leaning into the turns as the horizon tilts. Up and over this rollercoaster of a road, the landscape flashes by. Oh yeah, this is good. South of the Ortiz the pavement straightens out for a stretch over three miles long. Would this be a good place to open it up? Could be. But being the decent citizens we are, we don’t. Honest! On the weekends, if you arrive at Coffee at Dawn in Cedar Crest at the right time, maybe a little after sunrise, the parking lot is full of motorcycles. From the hottest sport bikes to the meanest choppers, new and old, it’s always a lively mix (saw a Vincent Black Shadow there once, ooh… ahh…). By the time we show up, only a few riders are hanging out, most everyone’s on the road. Andy and Jason are both chilled, so we grab coffees and ensconce ourselves in big, overstuffed, comfy chairs inside. We practice the fine art of kicking lies and telling tires, that is, sharing tales of two-wheel adventure: long solo rides, high winds, heat and having various parts of your motorcycle come flying off in the middle of nowhere only to get run over by a semi. I’ve heard, “Adventure is duress seen in retrospect.” But it sure makes for a lot of fun and some great stories… and having buds like these guys to share it all with is the best part.
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A Taste of Life in New Mexico
MAY 2014
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CHASING THE LIGHT 28
story by GABRIELLA MARKS photos by GABRIELLA MARKS
There’s this phrase, “chasing the light.” It’s a siren call, a venerable mantra murmured in reverence by those who are initiates in the addictive art of photographing the world we live in. There’s something about the phrase that captures the adrenalin rush of anticipation, the lure of the yet-to-be-discovered and the rewarding thrill of that discovery.
In reality, though, the mantra is more about waiting for the light. It’s about planning for and anticipating and being prepared for the light. This may mean scouting your location––exploring, considering prospective vantage points and most importantly, getting a sense of where and when the interplay of sunlight and shadow is most pleasing to your eye. The most delicious light will almost always be early morning and late afternoon––the moments after sunrise and preceding sunset. If you’re familiar with the phrase “magic hour,” you already possess one of the most precious secrets to making beautiful outdoor photographs. Magic hour light has a dreamy, nostalgic quality; it’s lovely, soft and warm. Unlike the harsh, flat light of high noon, the luminous quality of the light at the transitional times between night and day elevates your imagery. Often, this means your day starts before dawn—ready for that perfect light before it happens. And it’s not just the daylight. The clarity of the atmosphere creates exquisite light at night. We live in that place memorialized by the iconic Ansel Adams and his historic “Moonrise, Hernandez.” With the use of a tripod, you can create images that are “naturally” black and white, the world translated by the monochromatic light of the moon. Whether shooting in the night or early in the morning, your fingers will be cold. In fact, all of you may be cold. That’s a persistent reality of our high-altitude climate in northern New Mexico; the days may be hot, but the early morning air almost always has a chill. And when you’re shooting in the winter, that chill factor lasts all day. I’ve never found a glove I’m comfortable shooting with. I prefer the direct tactile feedback of holding the camera without any impediments (even though that means nearly freezing fingers). The key, as with planning for the light, is to plan for the right clothing to stay warm (or shaded and cool) while you’re out in the elements. Often, getting that perfect shot, in the perfect light, requires stillness. You may need to stay in the same position for a long time to capture the image you’re aiming for, and standing in one place also contributes to your frostiness. The better prepared you are to be comfortable, the better prepared you are to capture that image and endure the wait. Not surprisingly, the same goes for your gear. You’d be amazed at how grateful you can be for a simple plastic bag to cover your camera in a light drizzle. It doesn’t have to be high-tech to be useful or necessary.
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^^ Black mesa–my beacon. The most magnetic mesa viewed from the east, looking west at dusk. Sunsets are always vibrant events but the smoke from the 2011 Las Conchas fire created an eerie ambient effect, diffusing and muting the gloaming light as winds flared up the dust to meet the smoke.
Simple strategies like checking the forecast beforehand to make sure you won’t be caught in a mid-afternoon lightening storm can make all the difference in your pursuit of an image. Even the shoes that protect your toes from goatheads and red ants (let alone a curious snake) can make a world of difference. It’s amazing how focused and even microscopic your perspective can become when you’re looking through the viewfinder or LCD display on your camera. There is a near-hypnotic quality to seeing the world through that frame as you refine the composition, shifting your position just to get what you’re aiming for. In that moment of intense concentration, it’s easy to forget about the body behind the camera, which can be dangerous whether you’re shooting the Sangre de Cristo’s, hiking near the edge of a mesa or framing the plaza and backing into traffic on San Francisco Street. You can lose yourself in the Kodachrome moment of the scene you’re capturing, but it’s essential to stay aware of your surroundings. And we have such extraordinary surroundings here in New Mexico. It’s the first thing I notice every time I return from afar. The combined forces of low humidity, high altitude and minimal industrial production all contribute to the crystalline clarity of our skies––the nearly infinite sightlines, the pure and piercing blue. That quality of light is one of our greatest natural resources—a precious treasure I rarely see referenced in the indices that rate “great places to live.” As a photographer on assignment, I’ve been to every corner of the state, and had the privilege of seeing more of New Mexico than many a native may have seen. We go big with our territories here in the US, this state alone is nearly the size of Poland, Norway or Malaysia. And New Mexico has a striking diversity of environments to explore, from the arid, dusty rose deserts at the southern bootheel to the white sands in the Tularosa Basin, mid-state, to the forested wilderness of Wheeler Peak and the Glorieta Pass. But of late, I’ve personally become more intrigued with the idea of “local,” ranging within a radius closer to home. << My dog is entirely accountable for these images. I never would have been in that place, at that time of day, were it not for her insatiable appetite for bounding, jack rabbit style, across the public grant lands just across the arroyo. I’ve hiked the same path dozens, no, hundreds of times, watching her run for the sheer joy of it. Seeing the same landscape day after day at dusk made me want to capture the fleeting seeding cycle of the native grasses in the wind. The golden “magic hour” light makes them almost shimmer.
A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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CHASING THE LIGHT
One of the things I’ve found so transformational about photography is that somehow, the act of making photographs—that daily practice of looking, framing, composing—has helped me to see the world around me even when I’m not shooting. That sense of perception can heighten the experience both of the big views and the quiet, everyday moments in the backyard. There are views that only you know–– how the light streams through the coyote fence when you’re making coffee at that certain time in the morning, or the way the shadows lengthen in geometric patterns on the adobe wall out back in the late afternoon. Those images can be just as precious and powerful as the big landscapes, it just takes paying attention, being aware of your surroundings even during the seemingly mundane moments that frame our days. It’s an interesting conundrum. Often, so much of successful outdoor photography is contingent on preparation and even repetition––going to the same location a number of times, learning how the light falls, when wildlife is likely to be there, or how the seasons transform and cycle through a space. And yet the drive for a specific, planned result can limit your peripheral vision and hinder the simple act of seeing. Maybe that’s really the most valuable insight I’ve learned in the tens of thousands of frames I’ve shot across New Mexico: Always be prepared to be surprised. The best image of the day may not be the one you came for, but that magical, serendipitous accidental moment you simply stumble upon when you’re chasing the light.
^^ My first cover for Local Flavor–Jeff from Red Mountain Farm in Abiquiu. The farm is named after Red Mountain just west of the farm, which is in turn, named for the rich crimson the mountain reflects at dawn. This was a moment of intuition. I think I had asked a question about the garlic just beginning to green above the rows. Jeff had knelt down to feel the soil and took a moment to face the rising sun as the soil ran through his fingers. Nothing planned, nothing staged. Just a walk through the rows at dawn and being prepared for a spontaneous, natural moment. >> Heading west on Hwy 152 toward Silver City. Hands free, hitching a lift from my motorcyclist subject back to my jeep further down the road. This was an assignment on “motorcycling in New Mexico” and Highway 152 curving between Hillboro and Silver City is considered one of the most scenic rides in the state. Common wisdom in shooting is “never shoot into the sun”–but when you break the rules, beautiful things might just happen–sun flares and stark daylight silhouettes of the hills create a moody visual journey on a road that disappears ahead: destination unknown. 30
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A New Accent at the Anasazi story by JAMES SELBY photos courtesy of ROSEWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS
I
s there anything new to say about an old city? A city already different? A mañana town that bends you to its will then leaves you to its ever-scented burg whose mountain overlords assert that 400 years is not so very old? Well, yes. In Santa Fe, where the traditional nourishes creativity in the same way old soil renews fresh growth, we’ve embraced two recent Argentine imports: Malbec, a phenomenally popular wine with plush, dark-berried mocha flavor and Chef Juan Jose Bochenski, the cosmopolitan, self-assured executive chef at the Anasazi Restaurant. Malbec and Bochenski have more in common than Argentina. Both transplants have succeeded here in Santa Fe.
Originating in France, Malbec’s deeply colored, muscular fruit bolstered and enriched the major, albeit, leaner, softer varieties blended into wines of Bordeaux. But it remains a minor note in the harmonious chord of that famous region. And, while it’s the dominant grape in the “black wine” of Cahors in southwestern France, when we think of Malbec, we tend to look to Argentina. First planted there in the mid-nineteenth century, it flourished, languished and was revived in the 1990s by Nicolas Catena. Perhaps you raised a glass last month on World Malbec Day, April 17th? Malbec has changed from minor to major. Originating in Poland, the Bochenski family immigrated to Argentina. Juan was born in Bahia Blanca. The family then moved to Buenos Aires when he was 14 and, like | Chef Juan Jose Bochenski of the Anasazi Restaurant many chefs, first became passionate about cooking in the family’s kitchen. His mother’s “repertoire of ten or 12” classic Argentine dishes, such as asado (a slow-roast, grilled feast of a variety of meats, garnished with a garlicky green chimichurri sauce), various empanadas or carbonada criolla (a beef stew sweetened with dried fruits and sweet potatoes), were recipes––and flavors––ingrained in him as a boy. The Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi stands with quiet dignity on Washington Street, just off the northeast corner of Santa Fe’s Plaza. Unlike many of our hotels which are buffered by setbacks or circular driveways where you’re deposited at an off-street entrance requiring a march to reception, the Inn of the Anasazi’s hospitality, like a small European hotel, is a mere step through a door. Here, too, is one of the few actual sidewalk cafés in town. During a recent Sunday brunch, Juan took time to chat with a visitor in the cozy bar/lounge at the Anasazi, but not before amiably greeting familiar customers. He strategically sat to observe the commencing rush in the rustic yet stately Native American dining room with its willow twig Sombraje shutters pleasantly filtering the late morning light. Guests sipped on New Mexico’s Gruet Sparkling Brut infused with raspberries, and tucked into plates of Spanish eggs Benedict on sautéed spinach, Rioja chorizo and chipotle Hollandaise, or Juan’s version of asado made with beef tenderloin, heirloom fingerling potatoes, calabacitas and spring herbs chimichurri. Juan Bochenski, 42, is tall and broad-shouldered. He frequently has to swipe straight brown hair from his wide, Slavic brow. Generally, people don’t like to be told they look like someone, but if you should see a resemblance to Leonardo DiCaprio, you wouldn’t be alone (a bigger and older brother, anyway). His resume is like a bouillabaisse of culinary experience. He has dual citizenship from Argentina and Australia, where, on and off, he lived, trained and worked for ten years. (His wife is Argentine, born in Posadas, Misiones near the Iguazu Falls; both of their children, a son, Tadeusz, 7, and a daughter, Milla, 9, were born in Australia.) Juan did a stage at Taillevent, one of the grandest restaurants in Paris. In London, he was chef de partie (sectional boss) of pastry at Chez Nico at Ninety, which received three stars from the Michelin Guide. Following those, he did some stints in Singapore and Tasmania and, before taking the position in Santa Fe, he was executive chef for three years at Rosewood’s Jumby Bay Resort in Antigua, WI. Whether from travel or experience, Juan gives off an easy humility, which can seem generous as he speaks of his staff and their contributions to his cuisine. “We do a mole sauce here that is very complicated but has good balance.” (He speaks of the Anasazi’s Duck Enchilada Mole with Pico de Gallo and Green Chile Pearls.) “I rely on my sous chef, Alex Hernandez, for its preparation. Only he is responsible. It must be right and it’s fantastic.” He mentioned that he soon had to head back to the kitchen to prepare the house-made sausages himself, which is his task. “Some of our cooks have two or three jobs, and I’m aware of how hard they work. They make fun of my Spanish, my Argentine accent, and I will play the clown, if it helps them relax. I don’t care. I just want it to be right,” he said. He takes particular pride in the pastrami served at lunch in the New York-style Rueben sandwich. “We do a long, three-day process of brining, curing and smoking. One of the reasons I wanted to come to America is to learn, to research foods and regional dishes,” he says. “Eighty percent of our menu is Spanish or Mexican. When I first arrived in 2011, I was very conservative about using Argentine influences in the food, but gradually, I’ve added them. This spring and summer, we’ll have more,” says Juan. One of his regional go-to specials is grilled flatiron steak with caramelized onions, sunny-side-up eggs, Anasazi shoestring fries (made with a special spice mix) and chimichurri sauce. When asked what he would drink with such flavors? Re-enter Malbec! (Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve 2011: “Round and inviting, slightly firm around the edges and plenty of fruit here to enjoy,” adds Thomas Humphrey in a follow up email. He is the Food and Beverage manager at the Anasazi and another colleague Juan has come to depend on to choose wines to complement his menus.)
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Rosewood Inn Of the Anasazi
“My mother was also an excellent pastry chef,” says Juan. “This is what gave me a love of desserts, my sweet tooth, as you say. I’m the pastry chef in our restaurant, as well.” The chef d’oeuvre on the new dessert list is the Iguazu Falls Dessert: a pineapple cake, with (yerba) mate sorbet and coconut tapioca pearls. It’s tropical flavors were inspired by northeastern Argentina bordering with Brazil, where his wife is from, and is a sweet, if you will, homage to her and his mother. “We have a white wine in Argentina, Torrontes, with a full-bodied, silky texture. Thomas has found a late harvest Torrontes that beautifully pairs with the dessert,” he says, and with such enthusiasm it brings him to the edge of his seat. (Susana Balbo Late Harvest Torrontes 2010: Thomas writes, “The wine reveals intense aromas of jasmine, white rose petals and notes of fresh citrus fruit. On the palate it has enticing flavors of lychee, honey and pear.”) Still sitting on the edge of his seat, Juan spoke of another new dessert. “I have always wanted to make an authentic tiramisu, but we have to make it right; use Strega, brandy, Marsala, the real stuff!” When he was happy with the result, he invited Cristian Pontiggia, the chef at neighboring Osteria d’Assisi Restaurant to sample. “We got the thumbs up! We passed the test.” When asked about what he envisions for the future of the Anasazi Restaurant, he says, “I hope people would see us as an independent restaurant. People can come to a first-rate hotel restaurant, which is what we are! But, I want it to be informal and inviting, to be accessible. Our bar menu is offered until 11 at night; we’ve a wonderful outdoor patio with its own small plates, $20 lunches, $40 dinners. That is important, as it makes a welcome destination for locals as well as our guests.” He settled back into his seat only to straighten up again. “And, service. Service is more important than food. Your food can be OK, but if the service is great, people will come back for that feeling.” Only a chef serenely confident that he has “gotten it right” would allow himself such a pronouncement. Should you wish to celebrate things Argentine, the 25th of May is Dia de la Revolution de Mayo, their Fourth of July. Or, if you find yourself on Washington Street, step off the sidewalk into the Anasazi Restaurant, and savor the migration.
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Anasazi Restaurant at the Rosewood Inn Of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Avenue, Santa Fe. 505.988.3030. rosewoodhotels.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico
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Chef Johnny Vee I
stor y by JOHN VOLLERTSON photos by GAELEN CASEY
Wants to Know!
n an industry not known for its longevity, where businesses often come and go as quickly as the changing of the seasons, it’s nice to know some entrepreneurs do figure out how to enjoy a nice, long career. For Chef Pat Keene and her husband Terry of the Artichoke Café, Farina and Farina Alto, there has been a learning curve. Since they first set up shop in a somewhat dubious neighborhood (at the time) on Central Avenue in the Duke City, they have navigated the slippery slope of trend changes, economic dips and the foibles of over-expanding with skill and confidence. In my 20 years in New Mexico, I have heard nothing but nice things about this energetic couple. I checked with Pat to see what secret she thought she owed her success to. John Vollertsen: How long have you been in the restaurant business in New Mexico and to what do you attribute your successes and longevity?
Pat Keene: Terry and I opened our first restaurant in Hoboken, NJ, in 1985. My sister and brother-in-law bought an old building with a pool hall on the first floor on a great corner. We opened the Gold Coast Café there, which was a bar with pub-style food. We served New Mexico-style food, too. While we were living in Hoboken, which is directly across the Hudson River from NYC, I decided it would be a good idea for me to go to chef ’s school at the New York Restaurant School in Manhattan. It was a great decision because it was the beginning of the era of what I call the “chef-centric American restaurant.” My experience at the New York Restaurant School and my internships in New York enabled me to create my vision at the Artichoke Café when we took it over in 1989. We are celebrating our 25th anniversary this year, and I attribute our success to my education in food and Terry’s great experience as a front-of-the-house man. We make a good team and we enjoy working together. JV: Like many actors, some chefs do not want their kids to follow in their career footsteps. Did you have any hesitations about your son getting involved in the family business? PK: No, I didn’t because I first gave him time to do other things, but he’s a natural in the restaurant business like his father. When we decided to open Farina Alto, Evan was ready to work with us. It’s a good thing for him to have this experience because eventually he and his brother will be inheriting our business holdings. Our younger son Gavin is a musician, but also a very talented cook. When things got crazy at Alto this year, he saved us. The boys both have a lot of respect for how hard Terry and I have worked over the years and are always willing to help us out, but they also know we want them to do what makes them happy. JV: With Artichoke Café, Farina and the new Farina Alto all doing brisk business, how do you keep your wits about you? Is one of the restaurants your favorite child? PK: We opened Farina Alto one year ago, and I will say that I have worked harder this year than I have for many years. It’s like children, two are manageable and with three you’re outnumbered! But that’s okay. Terry and I figure we still have a few good years in us to get all the restaurants running on their own so we can “semiretire.” When people ask what my favorite restaurant is, I have to say Artichoke Café because it was my first restaurant and such a thrill to be the chef there. At that time, it was really a dream realized. Having said that, I grew up with Italian food and know it so well that I love to cook it and serve it at Farina and Farina Alto. It’s been very gratifying that people appreciate what we do at those two restaurants. They’re much more than pizzerias! JV: You have had a few challenging experiences with Portobello and Bien Shur, what were a few lessons you took away from those business endeavors? PK: We have had challenging experiences in our restaurants. We have opened seven restaurants in our career and we’re down to three. Portobello was not a good location, Bien Shur was a great experience, but when the pueblo decided to take it over, it was a disappointment; and ReBar, which was across from the University 34
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Chef Pat Keene of Artichoke Cafe, Farina and Farina Alta
had too many partners with different visions, it just didn’t work out. What all my experiences in opening restaurants taught me is that you win some and you lose some, but when things aren’t working out the way you planned, you have to make a decision to either dig in and work harder or cut your losses. We were lucky that we always came out okay and didn’t lose everything. We love the creative process of opening and running restaurants and are willing to be there every day if we have to. JV: If you had to eat one dish of food every day for the rest of your life, what would it be? PK: I never get sick of Farina’s pizza, but of course, being around restaurants every day I have to pace myself! Luckily, most times I can just take a bite! JV: Has it ever been tricky working with husband Terry—any major disagreements you care to confess? PK: When we were younger, it was harder. We did have some disagreements. We had two young kids and were working all the time. Terry always tells the story about how he criticized my soup in a very disparaging way one day, and I told him if he wasn’t able to be more diplomatic with his critiques, I would quit. He obviously learned to be more diplomatic! JV: What kitchen tool could you not cook without? PK: I am a fanatic about my cooking tools, so it’s hard to pick one, but the basic is a good, sharp knife and a good cutting board. You have to start right there. Good pots and pans would be next. JV: What are your favorite pizza toppings? PK- I love a basic margherita (fresh mozzarella, san marzano tomatoes, basil) and I add brown anchovy––very New Jersey. I also can’t resist our formaggio di capra, which has local goat cheese, leeks, scallion and housecured pancetta. Bacon and leeks...smell so good when cooking together. JV: As Albuquerque grows and develops, what changes and differences do you notice the most in your clientele and customer base? PK: The Albuquerque clientele is getting more sophisticated in their taste. They understand what we are doing and appreciate it. We’re seeing more people who have either voluntary or involuntary diet restrictions such as gluten-free, dairy-free, vegetarian, vegan––and we’re able to cater to their needs. We’re doing mostly organic, non-GMO food. JV: In this business, what part of your body do you think might give out first? PK: My hands would be the first to go if I was cooking full-time right now. I can stand on my feet and legs all day long, and I often do, but as long as I have comfortable shoes on, I’m okay. I definitely feel it in my hands when I’m in the kitchen for long periods of time. My advice to restaurant cooks is stay in good shape, eat well, do yoga, get a good chiropractor and acupuncturist! Cooking is hard on your body and you don’t want it to give out on you. The Artichoke Café is located at 424 Central Avenue SE in Albuquerque, 505.243.0200. artichokecafe.com. Farina Pizzeria is at 510 Central Avenue SE in Albuquerque, 505.243.0130. farinapizzeria.com. Farina Alto Pizzeria & Wine Bar is at 10721 Montgomery Boulevard NE in Albuquerque, 505.298.0035. farinaalto.com.
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story by MIA CARBONE
J
Still Hungry?
ust in time for Mother’s Day, we asked Beth Draiscoll, the owner of Zia Diner and a mom herself, to share with us some delicious, nostalgic and kid-accessible recipes to help celebrate that special woman in our lives. Mulling over Mother’s Day recipes “brought up memories of my mother and the food she prepared when we were young,” Beth says. She adds, “Though a fairly simple cook for the most part, my mother was born and raised in San Francisco and she did so love some iconic California foods even all those years ago when we were young.” Beth offers her mother’s roast leg of lamb recipe, explaining, “I wish that I could prepare a leg of lamb with mint sauce and wonderful grilled artichokes for my mother for Mother’s Day. If I could set the table with my grandmother’s Blue Willow ware china from the 1920s and an abundance of lovely hydrangea, the picture would be complete!” Along with the lamb recipe and memories of her own mother’s cooking, Beth shares her French toast recipe that even a child can make—for Mom’s breakfast in bed, of course! She also shares Zia Diner’s signature brunch dish, House Smoked Salmon Benedict. | Beth Draiscoll, the owner of Zia Diner
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Roast Leg of Lamb 5-6 pounds boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and tied 3 Tablespoons garlic, chopped 1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 Tablespoons butter Salt and pepper Crush the garlic and rosemary with a mortar and pestle (or food processor), add 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Butter and mash into a paste. Rub over the lamb and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 450°. Place lamb in a large roasting pan and roast until the internal temperature is somewhere around 140°, depending on your preference. This takes about 1 1/2 hours. Remove lamb from oven, cover tightly with foil and allow to rest for a few minutes. If you like, add some potatoes to the roasting pan after rubbing with olive oil and salt. They will be delicious! Says Beth: “My mother would have steamed artichokes and served them simply with melted butter and garlic, with a bit of lemon rind grated into the butter. I think an artichoke, like a Brussels sprout, is even more wonderful when grilled or roasted, and so I would serve the lamb with grilled artichokes. They can be served with a simple aioli or Green Goddess dressing, but at home I still prefer melted butter with garlic and lemon. When we were very young, my mother just used mint jelly with the lamb. We loved it! As we grew older, she introduced a more sophisticated variation, an English mint sauce that had lots of vinegar. I think the vinegar was meant to cut the richness of the meat, but it was never quite sweet enough for us kids. Fresh herbs were not so available commercially when I was a kid, but now it is really simple to make mint sauce from scratch, and to taste.”
Mint Sauce Bunch of fresh mint, finely chopped 3-4 Tablespoons boiling water 2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar 2 Tablespoons sugar Salt and pepper to taste Mix all ingredients and let sit for an hour or so before serving with the lamb. Add more or less sugar, depending on your personal preference.
Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict Serves 4
A traditional favorite for kids is to make breakfast in bed for Mom. Says Beth, “I cannot think of anything more iconic than homemade French toast with fresh berries. Even fairly young children can help, as this is very simple and still delicious!” 6-8 eggs 1 loaf of bread—I like a tasty bread with a soft crust like challah or brioche, but even inexpensive white bread will work 1 1/2 cups milk, half and half or a combination of the two 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 Tablespoon maple syrup Pinch of salt Pinch of cinnamon (if you like it) Butter Vegetable oil Break up eggs and whisk until smooth. Add remaining ingredients and mix together. Place the batter in a shallow pie dish and add as many slices as will fit. Let the bread soak up the batter for a few minutes on each side. Heat a wide sauté pan. Add equal parts butter and vegetable oil to heat and then fry bread slices for a few minutes on each side until golden brown. Keep slices warm in a low oven while cooking the rest.
To prepare the Hollandaise sauce: 3 egg yolks 2 Tablespoon lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt Pinch of cayenne Pinch of black pepper 1/4 pound butter (1 stick), melted and warm Whisk the egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, cayenne and black pepper in blender. With blender running, slowly drizzle in melted butter and mix until sauce comes together and thickens.
To put it all together: 8 English muffins 8 eggs (two per serving) 1 ounce Nova lox Sprig of dill or Italian parsley Poach eggs and rest on paper towels while toasting English muffins. Place Nova lox on each toasted muffin, top with a poached egg and pour some Hollandaise over each. Garnish with a sprig of dill or chopped Italian parsley and serve immediately.
© Joseph Gough | Dreamstime.com
French Toast Even a Child Can Make!
With Mother’s Day brunch in mind, Beth offers a Zia Diner staple, their Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict. “We smoke whole sides of salmon here at the Zia,” she says, “but I think good commercial lox is also just fine.” Beth notes that at the Zia, “We use the iconic blender Hollandaise first made famous by Julia Child. It holds fairly well and doesn’t ‘break’ as some recipes tend to do.”
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