November 2014 "Giving Thanks" Issue by Cullen Curtiss

NOVEMBER 2014

S A NTA F E | A L B U Q U E R QUE | TAOS

A TAST E OF LIF E I N N EW M EXI CO

AHMED OBO OF JAMBO CHEESEMONGERS OF SANTA FE THE MAYORS GIVE THANKS RECIPES FROM MOM

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L AU R A S H E P P H E R D breast wishes trunk show!

ATELIER

Upcoming in November: Southwest Fest! 4 Courses / $45. per person starts 11/2 (tax & tip additional) from 5:30

Breast Cancer Awareness Month extended past October! Join us Nov 6, 12-3pm along with Breast Wishes Founder Lexie Shabel for Refreshments and Trunk Show (Nov 6–8) with items starting at $25. 10% of ALL sales go to Breast Wishes!

photosantagto.com

Join Us in November!

65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com •

Join us Thanksgiving Southwest Fest!for 4 Courses / $45 per personDinner starts 11/2 Traditional Turkey to Filet Mignon, Veggie Options & More... th November 27 1 –/ 1–8pm 8 p.m. Thanksgiving Dinner Traditional Turkey to Filet Mignon, Veggie Options & More! full menus detailed on our website www.santacafe.com Plan you family & business holiday parties with us now! Plan Your Business or Family Holiday Parties Now! ‘instant’ gift certificates, Thanksgiving & Southwest Fest Menus:

www.santacafe.com 231 Washington Ave Santa Fe • 505-984-1788 • santacafe.com • 505 984 1788 / 231 washington avenue 87501

NOVEMBER 2014

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to our local farms, growers, ranchers & artisans

Sol Harvest Farm (Our on-site farm) Agri-Cultura Moore Family Farms Akin Farm Nepantla Farms Amyo Farms Old Windmill Dairy ARCA Organics OPUS HOG Beneficial Farms Peas and Hominy Bill WEIser pollo real ce laird Preferred Produce P Chispas Rio Grande Community Farms DEl Valle Rosales Produce East Mountain Organic Farm Sabroso FOODS Exotic edibles of edgewood Sage bakehouse Fair Field Farmer Sangre de Cristo Organic Four Daughters' Ranch Schweback Farm Simply Honey Gemini Farms Simp Granja Para Mañana SKarsgard Farms Heidi’s Raspberry Farm Sterling gardEns Henry’s Farm St. Francis Farms Hip Chik Farms Sungreen Living Foods Jamisen Brothers Swans' Garden King Orchard Sweet Grass COOPERATIVE Kyzer Farm Talus Wind Ranch La Montañita Co-op Tamaya La Paloma Greenhouse Tucumcari Mountain Losack Farms Cheese Factory MIchele palmer Valencia Orchard Montoya’s Produce Vida Verde Farms White Mountain Farm & Table creates seasonal dishes made from scratch with ingredients sourced from our on-site farm and these local farms, growers, ranchers & artisans from across New Mexico

Join us for our special Gratitude Dinner November 25 | 6:00 pm | $65/person

Seating is limited. Please RSVP at reserve@farmandtablenm.com.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

The Buzz … and the Art Buzz

ON OUR COVER:

Ahmed Obo of Jambo

by Kelly Koepke 8

What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!

Jambo’s Ahmed Obo

Miguel Zenón T H U R S D AY

Inside:

NOV

7:30PM

by Melyssa Holik 13

Ahmed Obo of Jambo has not only captivated the taste buds of Santa Feans—he has completely stolen our hearts.

We Asked the Mayor by Gail Snyder 18

Caught in the throes of city problems and politics, we asked the mayors of Albuquerque and Santa Fe to stop a moment to remind us of the blessings our cities have to offer.

Got Cheese? by Erin Brooks 21

Cheesemongers of Santa Fe has not even opened its doors and we’re already standing in line.

MORE Fall 2014 Season Highlights Inpost Artspace Reception: Christa Dalien Pray for Brain Doug Lawrence UNM Songwriter Class Showcase Michael Datcher & John Rangel Michael Anthony

ALL ACTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE

Fred Sturm Glenn Kostur Women of the World (WOW) Poetry Slam Latif Bolat Eliane Elias Plus Jazz Classes for Youth & Adults, Art Exhibits and More!

210 Yale SE | 505.268.0044 | outpostspace.org

Break Out the Hard Stuff! by Erin Brooks 24

Cold weather creations from our top mixologists.

33rd Annual

Festival of the Cranes by Gordon Bunker 26

Our Local Favorite for November is the Festival of the Cranes in Bosque del Apache.

Scalo’s Steve Paternoster by Emily Beenen 30

Scalo restaurant is the cornerstone of Nob Hill and owner Steve Paternoster is its heart and soul.

Still Hungry?

by Caitlin Richards 34

In honor of the Thanksgiving holiday we asked four top chefs to share a favorite recipe from their Mom. Here’s Cristian Pontiggia of Osteria d’Assisi, Fred Mueller of El Meze, Fernando Ruiz of Santacafé and Jonathan Perno of Los Poblanos with a big shout out to Mom!

PLACITAS HOLIDAY Fine Arts & Crafts Sale November 22 & 23 Sat 10–5 pm & Sun 10–4:30 pm 80 Artists Anasazi Fields Winery at 3 Sites The Big Tent (east of Presbyterian Church) Placitas Elementary School

featuring Vangie and Bill Dunmire

Refreshments at each location • Art Raffle display at the School

NOVEMBER

2014 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant: Lily Carbone Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kitty Leaken Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Advertising: Santa Fe: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Kate Collins 505.470.1612 Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130. 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above address.

© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

NOVEMBER 2014

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preview all 80 artists at www.PlacitasHolidaySale.com The Placitas Holiday Fine Arts and Crafts Sale is sponsored by the Placitas MountainCraft and Soiree Society, a 501-c3 nonprofit organization.

Gift as you would like to be gifted. Buy gifts for everyone you know and get dinner for yourself! Enjoy a free $50 gift certificate when you buy $500 of gift certificates.

505.254.ZINC

505.294.WINE

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Shop simple, shop local, shop smart this holiday season.

Competitive Prices S t o pLargest I n Selections & Stock Up Friendly Staff for all of your holiday celebrations Something for every Taste Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Wine Manager on Duty We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

FINE WINE & LIQUOR

Est. 1981

Established 1981

505.455.2219

Competitive Prices kokoman@cybermesa.com Largest Selection Hwy 84/285 • Pojoaque Friendly 12 miles North Staff of Santa Fe Over 20 varieties of keg beer Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Something for every taste...

Presently Stocking Over 3,500 Wines • 1,000 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches • 390 Types of Vodka 220 Tequilas • 157 Types of Rum Conveniently located 12 easy miles north of Santa Fe and on the way to all your favorite destinations in Northern New Mexico...

505-455-2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road • Hwy 84/285 Pojoaque 87506

NOVEMBER 2014

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Letter

Giving thanks could be the official motto for our magazine. Each and every story that we write throughout the year is our way of giving thanks for the special people who live and work in our community and who amaze and inspire us and make us feel so grateful Presently Stocking:to be living here right beside them. In this Thanksgiving Over 3500 Wines issue we celebrate two people for whom giving is as natural as breathing. The first is on our cover—Ahmed 800 Beer Choices Obo, the exuberant chef and owner of Jambo Cafe in Santa Fe. As we go to press, Ahmed is actually visiting 105 Single Malt Scotches 220 Types of Vodkahis home village of Lamu, Kenya, overseeing his latest and most far-reaching project, a free medical clinic for 222 Tequilas the people who live on this tiny island off the coast of 136 Types of RumEast Africa.

A little closer to home, our second story centers on an equally exuberant and generous restaurant owner, Steve Paternoster of Scalo Italian Grill. Steve is a legend in Nob Hill, where he opens his door and his heart to innumerable local charities that believe the most successful fundraisers usually begin at the table—especially when it’s Taos Española a table at Scalo. Restaurant people, as a unique tribe of their own, contribute more time, money, sweat and energy for charity than any Pojoaque N otherExit group #502 I know of. And still, Steve Paternoster and Ahmed Obo are truly in a league of their own. Also in this issue of giving thanks there’s a big shout out to a brand new business in Santa Fe that hasn’t even opened yet— Cheesemongers of Santa Fe. John Gutierrez, you have swept me off my feet. John is the poster boy for a generation of creative entrepreneurs passionate about preserving the uniqueness of New Mexico’s food culture and proving that local ideas and local businesses are where our true strength lies. And right up there with John are the mixologists we write about this month, whose loyalty to local, handcrafted spirits, organic ingredients and fearless techniques have earned them a star-like status. Finally, it would not be a true Thanksgiving issue without a tribute to Mom. For that tribute we turned to five chefs to share a favorite recipe that they inherited from their moms. Just as the chefs have cherished these recipes, we think that you will cherish them as well. We also asked for a photograph that brought back memories of that very special person in their lives and I could not resist offering the same. This is a photo of my mom giving me one of her big happy hugs––the perfect image to express what we try to do in each issue. This is your November hug from Local Flavor.

AMPLIFY Your Life

www.ampconcerts.org

Tickets: Hold My Ticket (112 2nd St SW), 505-886-1251 and ampconcerts.org, 505-232-9868 NHCC Tickets - In person or by phone, NHCC Box Office (505-724-4771) AMP Concerts & Heath Concerts present

NoV

16 Time for Three 21

ryaN aDamS JeNNy LewiS Kiva auditorioum Mon, 7:30 pm

AMP Concerts & Chamber Music Albuquerque present

KiMo Theatre • Sun, 3 pm

NoV

AMP Concerts and DLeNM present

TRANSFORM YOUR HORSE & DOG

La SaNTa CeCiLia

La Fonda Hotel Ballroom • Santa Fe, Fri, 8 pm

Myofascial release for horses & dogs Cranio-sacral • In-mouth Bodywork clinics for owners

Certified Practitioner

505.501.2290

ORCHID ENSEMBLE

Outpost Performance Space • Sun, 3 pm

DeC CHRISTMAS FROM IRELAND with

13 LúnAsA & KArAn CAseY 2 SHOWS! NHCC • Sat. 4 pm & 8 pm

MaRCHINg BaND 17 MaRCHFOuRtH Sunshine Theater • Sat, 9 pm JAn FLeCK & 21 BeLA ABIgAIL WAshBurn JAn

KiMo theatre • Wed. 7:30 pm

1 DaKhabraKha 4 Leo KoTTKe ¡Globalquerque! presents

The Dirty Bourbon • Mon, 7:30 pm

Please visit: EQUINENM.COM

sAInt-MArIe 15 BuFFY KiMo Theatre • Sun, 7:30 pm FeB núñez 28 CArLos FEB 28, NHCC • Sat, 8 pm MAr 28 hAPA MAR 28, KiMo Theatre • Sat, 8 pm APr 1 ALtAn APR 1, KiMo Theatre • Wed, 7:30 pm FeB

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MARGRET HENKELS

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KiMo Theatre • Thurs, 7:30 pm

Free ConCerts • BÉBÉ LA LA

Wednesday, Nov. 12, 5 pm, Los Griegos Library & Tuesday, Nov. 25, 6 pm, Juan Tabo Library

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

Photo: Gaelen Casey

If there are three things Duke City dwellers love, it’s chile, beer and coffee. Travel & Leisure magazine recently ranked Albuquerque number four on its list of cities known for coffee. The magazine cited the New Mexico Piñon Coffee Company’s blend made with piñon and the coffee milkshake from Golden Crown Panaderia. With a double shot of espresso, that milkshake is sure to keep you up nights! Head there, or to one of our other favorites like Michael Thomas (with two locations now!), Zendo, or Daily Grind and find out what makes our humble burg special coffee-wise.

Pratt and Chris Morales of Golden Crown

Remember last year’s appearance of a struggling local joint on Food Network’s Restaurant Impossible? Chef Robert Irvine and crew were back in town in October to work his unique brand of magic on Nob Hill’s Shade Tree Customs & Cafe. The custom motorcycle shop and eatery transformed itself on October 21 for the grand reopening the next day. Shade Tree drew the attention of the show that turned around Downtown’s Pasion last year by asking fans on Facebook to support the restaurant. The episode will air early in 2015, but you don’t have to wait to see the changes, you lucky local, you. Sunday, November 2, is your last chance for the season’s Rail Yards Market. In addition to food and drink, this Sunday you can get your yoga on, hear poetry, music (marimba!), belly dance, and clap along to a National Institute of Flamenco performance. The Sunday festivities take a break until next spring. For a full list of events and times, head to railyardsmarket.org.

NOVEMBER 2014

Here’s something you don’t hear about every day: New Mexico-made balsamic vinegar. And yet Steve and Jane Darland founded Monticello Balsamico 17 years ago. Both will be at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm’s La Merienda restaurant to discuss their artisanal vinegar on November 1, and to enjoy Chef Jonathan Perno’s specially chosen menu that includes the balsamic as an ingredient. My mouth is watering just reading it: caramelized parsnips with aged gouda, chives, crispy shallots and Monticello Balsamico; three-cheese speck agnolotti with herb salad and Monticello Balsamico; roasted quail stuffed with quinoa, orange, balsamic honey glaze and poached pears filled with pastry cream, wrapped in a puff pastry with Monticello Balsamico caviar and candied tarragon. If learning about biodynamic farming while drinking wine is your thing, then the November 13 Biodynamic Wine dinner is for you. Learn about the farming philosophy developed by Rudolf Steiner that includes the soil, sun, moon, wildlife and the spirit of the land. The wines will be paired with items from a menu that changes seasonally and currently includes an artisanal cheese plate, local beans salad, grainy mustard and herbed chicken roulade, potato gnocchi and herb-crusted rib eye. The round of holiday art markets has begun with perhaps the largest, and truly a New Mexico tradition, Weems International Artfest, November 14 through 16 at Expo New Mexico. This year’s featured artist is sculptor Michael Naranjo. Showcasing over 280 local and regional artists, this year’s Artfest promises to be bigger and better than ever. Artfest offers educational activities for children and adults through Children’s ArtSMart, artist’s demonstrations and student art booths, and it always benefits a charitable organization (this year it’s Veterans Heading Home). Visit weemsinternationalartfest.org for times and a complete roster of artists. An expanded Winter Spanish Market returns on November 28 and 29 to the Hotel Albuquerque. This year’s 26th annual event promises to be 50 percent larger, with well over 100 traditional Spanish Colonial artists. Get your holiday shopping done from purveyors of handmade santos, tinwork, straw appliqué, weaving, pottery, precious metal, colcha, bone carving, furniture and woodcarving. Planned during the event are a champagne brunch, live music, the

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That same weekend, the Santa Fe-based Indigenous Fine Art Market launches its November Holiday Showcase in Albuquerque, November 29 and 30, with a special champagne party and silent auction benefit on November 29, at the Hotel Andaluz. Find holiday gifts or decor for your home, support Native artists and chat with artist like Navajo jewelers Darryl Dean and Rebecca Begay, Chickasaw jeweler Kristen Dorsey, Hidatsa sculptor Kathy Whitman-Elk Woman, Navajo painter Gilmore Scott, Blackfeet jeweler Tchin, Jemez sculptor/painter Joe Carejo, Jr. and Taos/Santa Domingo jeweler Althea Cajero. Some 50 artist will participate. Check indigefam.org for complete details. Kudos to three New Mexico published or authored books selected for honors in the annual Moonbeam Children’s Book Awards, which recognizes exemplary children’s books. Two books took gold medals: How Chile Came to New Mexico by Rudolfo Anaya, illustrated by Nicolas Otero, translated by Nasario Garcia and published by Rio Grande Books; and the non-fiction account, Eugene Bullard: World’s First Black Fighter Pilot by Larry Greenly, published by NewSouth Books. A bronze medal was awarded to Santa Febased Azro Press for Catherine Kirkwood’s animal-based novel, Looking for Tula. Nice job everyone involved!

The City Different ranked in the top ten cites in the world, as ranked by Conde Nast Traveler’s readers! Santa Fe, at number 10, includes highlights like our charming downtown, adobe buildings and art galleries, naturally, as well as our different side of American history. Of note were the Museum of International Folk Art on Museum Hill and the Basilica Cathedral of St. Francis, which inspired Willa Cather’s iconic novel Death Comes for the Archbishop. We’re encouraged to “chow down on enchiladas from The Shed and biscochito cookies from The Chocolate Maven paired with coffee from the quirky closet-sized Holy Spirit Espresso, then make sure your day ends at Santa Fe Spirits’ new tasting room.” To see how we compared with other world cities, visit cntraveler.com.

| Chef Mark Connell of Arroyo Vino The diners of Open Table have chosen Santa Fe’s Arroyo Vino restaurant and bottle shop among the Top 100 Wine Lists in America, highlighting restaurants that offer the finest selections to complement every dish. Arroyo Vino (the only New Mexico restaurant on the list) serves an ever-changing menu of contemporary American small plates designed for sharing. The wine program consists of a dynamic by-the-glass list as well as over 750 bottles in the adjoining wine shop. Congrats Brian Bargsten, Mike Mabry and Chef Mark Connell for this achievement! Photo courtesy of the La Fonda

ALBUQUERQUE

SANTA FE

Photo: Joy Godfrey

the BUZZ

procession of artists from the San Felipe de Neri Church, live demonstrations and more. For more information on the event, please visit spanishcolonial.org.

If the idea of enjoying exquisite classical music in an intimate setting, where the audience can brush shoulders with soloists and orchestra members alike, the New Mexico Philharmonic’s Neighborhood Concert series is for you. Kicking off the season on November 16 at St. John’s United Methodist Church is Haydn’s Lord Nelson Mass, Hob. XXII:11, under the direction of Matthew Greer. The program begins with Mozart’s Divertimento in D Major, K. 136, followed by his Piano Concerto No. 23 in A Major, K. 488, performed by Amy Greer. Soloists are Ingela Onstad, soprano; Darci Lobdell, mezzo-soprano; Seth Hartwell, tenor; and Michael Hix, baritone, with the Quintessence Festival Chorus performing the choral sections. More on the season and tickets at nmphil.org.

La Fonda on the Plaza

The sale of La Fonda on the Plaza made headlines last month, as the latest in a round of signature hotel ownership transfers. The historic and recently renovated 180-room La Fonda remains a New Mexico-owned venture, now under the stewardship of siblings Jennifer Kimball and Philip Wise. The new owners don’t plan any major changes, and Kimball knows the hotel intimately as she was already a part owner and chairman of the board of the company selling the hotel. Guests and frequenters of the hotel’s restaurant and bar shouldn’t notice a thing except continued great food, ambience and service.

Just in time for the holidays, another Heritage hotel, Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe, offers two new tours to enchant guests and locals alike. One focuses on the haunted history of Santa Fe. With Santa Fe being the oldest capital city in the United States, we have a rich legacy of history from which to pull scary tales, as told by tour leader and historian Peter Sinclaire. The second is a food tour in partnership with Food Tour New Mexico that includes handson demonstrations and mixology classes at some of Santa Fe’s most noteworthy restaurants. “We created these food tours as a way for visitors to New Mexico to have a more memorable, hands-on experience,” explains Nick Peña, owner of Food Tour New Mexico. For more visit Hotel Chimayo at hotelchimayo.com.

Leslie Chavez and Michelle Roetzer

Congratulations on the marriage of two member of Santa Fe’s culinary community. Michelle Roetzer, lead instructor for the culinary arts at Santa Fe Community College and Leslie Chavez, former chef at Tecolote Café and caterer. Both work at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, too. You make beautiful brides, ladies!

in time for Thanksgiving. Local Flavor’s own Johnny Vee is host and auctioneer, and all proceeds benefit The Foot Depot. More at thefooddepot.org. The Santa Fe Children’s Museum invited some of the same (and some different) top chefs in Santa Fe to design gingerbread houses for display at the Museum during November, to be auctioned off! Vote for your favorite house at the museum or online, with a chance to win museum passes. All the deliciously decorated houses will auctioned November 12 through 14, with proceeds from the sale benefitting the fun, educational and entertaining programming of the organization. Talented chefs from Osteria d’ Assisi, Terra at The Four Seasons Rancho Encantado, La Posada de Santa Fe, the Eldorado Hotel and Luminaria at the Inn and Spa at Loretto, and more will compete for top honors! Visit santafechildrensmuseum.org.

TAOS

Photo: Karol M.

In other hotel news, the Eldorado Hotel, which recently came to New Mexico ownership, has promoted Douglas Libby to general manager. “I am very pleased to announce Doug’s promotion,” said Adrian Perez, president of Heritage Hotels & Resorts, the hotel’s owner. “His leadership skills combined with a strong sales and marketing acumen will serve the hotel well, as will his familiarity with the property and the market. This is a well deserved promotion and we’re thrilled to have him leading the team at Eldorado.” Libby was most recently the regional director of sales and marketing for the company, overseeing five of Heritage’s properties in northern New Mexico.

Taos Pueblo

The voters have spoken and chosen Taos Pueblo as the second Best Native American Experience in the United States. The voters were USA Today’s readers. New Mexico also took first place with Acoma Pueblo coming in the top spot. In fact, five of the top 10 winners are based in New Mexico! It’s no surprise Taos Pueblo earned honors as it has been continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years and is the only living Native American community to be designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark. The other New Mexico winners were Santa Fe Indian Market, the Gathering of Nations Powwow and the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, both in Albuquerque.

Taos Chamber Music Group’s November concerts remind us of the passage of time. The first series of concerts, Time Change on November 1 and 2, marks the actual time Fall and pie, two of our favorite things. change (turn your clocks back!) as well as On November 2, you can visit the New Mexico Museum of Art for a free screening changes in musical meters and styles. From Brahms’ Trio in A minor, Op. 114 for of the documentary short Pie Lady of Pie clarinet, cello and piano to Judd Greenstein’s Town by artist Jane Rosemont, followed Change for electric guitar, flute, clarinet, by a slide lecture from photographer Joan Myers. And there will be pie, naturally. Visit bass and piano, to more recent compositions influenced by music from the Renaissance nmartmuseum.org for details. (Gary Schocker’s Dream Travels for flute More pie (and ice cream and coffee) can be and guitar and Benjamin Britten’s Nocturnal had at the annual Holiday Pie Mania on for solo guitar). Featured artists are Colin November 15, when you can learn all about McAllister on guitar, Nancy Laupheimer the crust from Santa Fe chefs like Tomas on flute, Sergei Vassiliev on clarinet, Sally Keller (Galisteo Bistro), Andrew Cooper Guenther’s cello, Patrick Neher’s bass and (Terra), Christian Pontiggia (Osteria Kim Bakkum on piano. On November 23, d’Assisi), Xavier Grenet (L’Olivier), TCMG pays tribute to Ralph Guenther, Dionne Christian (Revolution Bakery), composer, professor, flutist and Taos School Irene Barba (The Swiss Bakery & Bistro) of Music board member for over 20 years, and Aline Salazar (Midtown Bistro). in honor of his 100th birthday. Details and Bid on your favorite pies at auction, to be tickets at taoschambermusicgroup.org. taken home with you or picked up fresh

Italian Single Vineyards Wine Dinner We'll take you through the vineyards of Italy! Enjoy exquisite wines balanced perfectly with Chef's innovative 5-course menu. Only $59++ per person. Thursday, July 17th, 6:30pm.

Zagat Honored Old House Restaurant, featuring dry-aged rib eye steaks Dinner Reservations • 505.995.4530

AGAVE Lounge: Chef Taka’s Raw Bar & Sushi • Happy Hour Food/Drink Specials Voted by Premier Traveler Top 10 World’s Best Spas Enjoy a Cranberry Orange Wrap with massage, $10 savings, includes a take home dry brush. Call Now 995.4535

309 W. San Francisco St. • Santa Fe, NM • 87501 • EldoradoHotel.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

A RECIPE FOR Your Legacy: Pass it on! Preserve your wealth and protect your estate for generations to come. To schedule a no obligation consultation, please contact me today.

ALBUQUERQUE

SANTA FE

Friday, November 21, is the Citywide Artscrawl and Holiday Kickoff, with five percent of sales of participating galleries going to charity. Of note is New Grounds Print Workshop & Gallery’s Hot Off the Press— Open Studio, Fundraiser and Printing Extravaganza with seven artists pulling prints: etchings, gravure, linoleum cuts and serigraphs, available for sale at a discount during the reception only. Participating artists include Diane Alire, Ray Maseman, local treasure Mary Sundstrom, Kaitlin Reese, Wayne Chinander, Nikolaus Hudak and Ren Adams. Visit newgroundsgallery.com for details.

One of New Mexico’s most notable artists, Gustave Bauman, is well known for his scenes of local life, flora and fauna on everything from calendars to totes to T-shirts. The New Mexico History Museum opens Gustave Baumann and Friends: Artist Cards from Holidays Past, an exhibit of handmade Christmas cards, on Friday, November 7, with a 5 p.m. reception, gallery walk and book signing of the companion book by co-curators Tom Leech and Jean Moss. The exhibition, which features around 100 cards by Baumann and some of the greatest Santa Fe artists of the 20th century, runs through until the end of March 2015. On November 15 and 16, you can make your own holiday cards with provided paper, envelopes and supplies. And remember, Sundays are always free for New Mexico residents.

Diane Alire, Glo, 10 x 12.5″ Multiple Plate Gravure

November 22 through 23 marks the 33rd anniversary of the Placitas Holiday Fine Arts and Crafts Sale, a juried art show featuring some of New Mexico’s finest artists. Visitors have enjoyed the transition to the holidays for many years while shopping, talking with the artists and meeting old friends amidst the creative wonders. Anasazi Fields Winery, where Jim Fish and his partners make their own wine from New Mexico grapes and fruits is once again a hub of activity, along with the big tent east of Presbyterian Church and Placitas Elementary School. Organic goat cheese and colorful ristras, garlic and local honey, free wine tastings, a raffle and all kinds of art from painting to photography to clothing and accessories to jewelry. Visit placitasholidaysale. com for times and directions.

Diva Metal Art, Rainbow Dancer

Framing Concepts Gallery host its 24th annual solo artist show with David Schwindt, a talented landscape artist whose renderings of the Southwest landscape offer a sense of space and awe at the grandeur. Schwindt has been painting outdoor studies for his studio work since he purchased his first French easel in the mid-1970s. He’s won many awards, including three first place awards in oil at the New Mexico State Fair. He has been invited to jury and judge local and national shows and enjoys teaching plein air painting. Schwindt’s Road Trip 2014 opens November 21. Visit framingconceptsgallery.com. 10

NOVEMBER 2014

218 E. Marcy Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 LYNN LANDIS

ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT, INVESTMENTS

Paintings & Pastels by

Charlee Newman at

Adobe Gallery announces the exhibition and sale of over 70 Hopi katsina carvings ranging in age from the 1930s to the present day, November 14 through January. The Katsina Carvings of Hopi Pueblo opens with a reception on November 14 at 5 p.m. Katsinas are spirits or personifications of things in the real world, and a katsina can represent anything from a revered ancestor to an element, a location, a quality, a natural phenomenon or a concept. Pre-sales of these intriguing figures are being accepted at 505.955.0550, and visit adobegallery.com for more. Continuing through January 18, and in conjunction with the current Georgia O’Keeffe: Ghost Ranch Views exhibition, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum is host to Miguel Covarrubias: Drawing a Cosmopolitan Line. This show presents artwork that links Covarrubias’ commercial art, scholarly publications and studio practice, to demonstrate the cosmopolitan modernism of his life and work, which were deeply influenced by his life-long practice of moving between modern cities and sites remote from New York or Mexico City. It reveals his influential role as part of a global network of modernists, including Georgia O’Keeffe. Ghost Ranch Views brings together brilliant paintings of the harsh geography and spectacular color at Ghost Ranch, the site of O’Keeffe’s most famous landscape paintings. It includes paintings of the landscape, bones and landscapes with bones and flowers, her most iconic contribution to American modernism. Visit okeeffemuseum. org for details, and plan a trip to Ghost Ranch to compare the paintings with the real life experience!

Zuly’s Cafe

in the heart of Dixon through December 2014 preview at www.charleenewman.com

pushing

boundar boundaries

featured artists:

Trish Meyer | Mixed Media Marcella Boushelle | Watermedia Marlies Diels | Ceramics First Friday Reception

Friday, November 7, 5–8pm 6pm Artist Insights: Marcella Boushelle Citywide Holiday Kickoff

NOV 1–29

Friday, November 21, 5–8pm SALON EXHIBIT COLOR, SHAPE & TEXTURE II

Marlies Diels Ceramics Miguel Covarrubias, The New Yorker, July 6, 1929, Our Lady of the Lily: Georgia O’Keeffe © Condé Nast

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Char Punke Fiber Art 8210 Menaul Blvd. NE • Hoffmantown Center • Albuquerque, NM 87110 • thegalleryabq.com 505.292.9333 • Open Monday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm • Follow us on Facebook

WANTED FOODIES

Dinner: Tuesday–Sunday, 5–9pm Reservations Highly Recommended:

505-982-3700 OpenTable.com • GalisteoBistro.com

227 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, NM

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

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NOVEMBER 2014

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Ahmed Obo of Jambo “We all do our part, and my part is with food. That is my gift, it’s what I can give.”

stor y by MELYSSA HOLIK photos by KITTY LEAKEN

One of the first things anyone notices about Chef Ahmed Obo is his smile: it’s warm, sincere and frequent. His beaming goes beyond charm and optimism, however. It reflects his heartfelt desire to give of himself: everything and anything he can.

As a child in Lamu, Kenya, his teacher told him, “Even if you don’t have money to give, you can give a smile, you can give your time. You always have something to give.” It’s a message he clearly internalized, judging from the generosity of spirit that defines him and his life. But schoolhouse lessons aren’t the only factor that has shaped Ahmed into the person he is today. His innately selfless character was forged in a crucible of hardship. He knows what it is like to struggle for the basics: as a child, he recalls poverty and adversity. Medical care in Lamu was lacking, there wasn’t always enough food, and “Going to school was hard because my family was poor,” he says, “Just for my parents to keep the kids clothed was difficult.” As the oldest child, Ahmed felt a duty to help. At age 12, he left school to work and earn money for his family, first carrying bags for tourists and later by giving tours on a dhow boat he found and fixed up using the money he’d earned. Leaving school is a loss that he plainly grieves but does not regret. There’s no trace of bitterness about his early life or the choices he had to make, there’s only concern for others who endure similar struggles. After sacrificing his own education, Ahmed was determined that his siblings | Back left: Vince Onchaga, front left: Amber Schoch, front center: Ahmed Obo, back right: Swaleh Obo, far right: Jose Luis Reyes

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

Ahmed Obo of Jambo | Swaleh Obo and Alberto Cervantes

| Kenyan Style Beef Kebab

NOVEMBER 2014

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would not have to do the same. He strove to provide enough income for the family so that each of his brothers and sisters could pursue their education as far as they wanted. “I knew that education was important. I lost it, but my siblings will have it,” he says, and he’s succeeded in providing them with the opportunities he missed. All of his siblings were able to complete high school and a few of his brothers, sisters and cousins have even been able to pursue higher education thanks to Ahmed. It’s a theme throughout his life. Rather than complain about his own deprivation, he works determinedly to spare others the same difficulties. When asked how and why he could make this sacrifice as a young child, Ahmed explains, “It was just something inside of me. I had a choice, and I decided not to be selfish, to leave school and just go for it—to work as hard as I can.” He had seen other families scatter in search of jobs and income and he didn’t want that to happen to his family. Knowing that his mother was an orphan, Ahmed wanted to help her build the family she never had. It worked. His family stayed together, and by the time the last of his ten siblings came into the world, young Ahmed was earning enough money to provide a stable, secure life for everyone. A lot of people would have stopped there. But Ahmed, it seems, is never content to do a good deed and call it a day. Instead, his entire life is imbued with a desire to help others. It permeates his being and every aspect of his day, rippling out to touch many lives. You can see it in his face, hear it in his voice, and taste it in his food. He believes all humans share a fundamental “responsibility to care for one another” and he carried that belief with him when he came to the U.S. in 1999 and began working as a cook at Zia Diner, and when he opened Jambo in 2009. It seems fitting that he became a chef. What act is more basic and elemental than feeding another person? “We all do our part, and my part is with food. That is my gift, it’s what I can give.” Even Ahmed’s motivations to open Jambo were rooted in altruism. “Spiritually, my journey is to continue helping others, and opening a restaurant allows me to do more,” Ahmed says. As Jambo Cafe grew and thrived, Ahmed started to think about extending his mission to serve others beyond his family. He began working with charitable organizations in Santa Fe, including Food Depot, Angels Night Out, Souper Bowl, Cooking with Kids, Hungry Mouth, Girard’s House and Big Brothers Big Sisters. “I’m open to help anyone who needs help,” Ahmed says, “especially children. They are the future. We need to raise them healthy and make sure they don’t experience suffering.” Although he was involved with children’s charities locally, it wasn’t until a few years ago that he felt a calling to get involved with children’s health in Lamu. He took a trip back to his childhood home and saw a lot of the same problems that existed when he was growing up. In particular, he was troubled by a continued lack of quality healthcare for Lamu residents: inadequate equipment, medicine and personnel. It was the same privation he had endured years ago; in fact, he still bears the physical scars from improperly treated childhood wounds. Yet again, rather than lament his past circumstances, he set out to make sure others did not suffer the same injustice. He began by donating land and a building to house a free medical clinic. He formed the Jambo Kids Foundation, a 501(c)(3) to support the clinic, and began to hold fundraisers to raise the initial funds. Soon, all the pieces starting falling into place. His cousin Barke, who had pursued a medical degree with Ahmed’s financial support, came on board to help set up the clinic. More and more people began to pitch in and help make the clinic a reality. Finally, in November 2013, he opened the Jambo Kids Clinic, and it now serves 15 to 30 children each day. It is staffed with a physician’s assistant, a nurse and a lab technician, and there’s a lab and pharmacy right in the clinic, as well as a two-bed hospital for overnight care. A portion of Jambo Cafe’s profits are donated to support Jambo Kids Clinic, making the project sustainable long-term.

Ahmed shows no sign of slowing down. In December of 2013, he opened Jambo Imports, a store that sells spices, jewelry, masks, fabrics and art, to further expand his mission. A percentage of the store’s proceeds supports Jambo Kids, while it simultaneously supports local artists in Kenya and bolsters the Kenyan economy. As the restuarant and Jambo Imports grow, Ahmed plans to expand the Jambo Kids Clinic to include a prenatal and maternity center. This extension will help combat Lamu’s shockingly high infant and maternal mortality rate. The Jambo Kids Foundation is in the process of selecting a site for this critical addition to the Lamu community, and has plans to hold a fundraiser for the obstetrics center in 2015. Running a successful restaurant and a retail store, giving his time to local charities and building a charitable foundation—to say Ahmed has a lot on his plate is putting it mildly. When asked how he manages to do it all, Ahmed is characteristically modest once again. He credits other people, saying, “I have relationships with family and friends that help me.” He also recognizes his employees and the trust he’s able to place in them, saying, “I have a great waitstaff and kitchen staff that make all of this possible, so I can travel and do other things without stress. I don’t have to worry about leaving. Everybody here takes pride in their work and supports our mission.” Like many of this world’s most generous souls, he doesn’t pontificate on why he does what he does. He doesn’t need a reason: it’s as natural to him as breathing. He believes it’s his purpose in life. In fact, rather than discuss what he’s given back, he’s most focused on what he’s gotten, and eager to express gratitude for a community that’s welcomed him and for a life that seems to have exceeded his expectations. “I am so grateful to the community here. I cannot ask for a better place to live,” Ahmed says. After twenty years in Santa Fe, he considers it his home, saying, “I think I’m in the right place to carry on my dream.” He reflects on Jambo’s recent five-year anniversary celebration, when chefs from other restaurants came and celebrated by cooking some food. “I could really see the love of Santa Fe,” he says, “and I adore this community. There is no way to explain how much.” There is no doubt that Santa Fe has embraced him, and it’s no wonder: Ahmed’s genuine kindness radiates from him, affecting others in ways both large and small. “That’s why we’re here,” he says, “We have to feed our souls by giving to one another.” Jambo is located at 2010 Cerrillos Road in Santa Fe. 505.473.1269. jambocafe.net.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

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NOVEMBER 2014

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

We Asked the Mayor T

hanksgiving’s approach brings with it a cornucopia of memories and associations, especially those related to delicious smells wafting from the kitchen. It’s traditionally a time of gathering together with people we love, sharing with them our special ritual foods and getting the chance to rediscover, if we’re lucky, how much these people and places dear to our hearts really mean to us, even with their quirks (maybe even because of their quirks!).

The word Thanksgiving, when turned around as a verb—the giving of thanks—is another aspect of the season. What are we grateful for, all of us New Mexicans? For some thought provoking and heart stirring answers, we asked the mayors of Albuquerque and Santa Fe, who represent us, to share with us what they’re personally most grateful for. Both mayors are strong community leaders, both exhibit commendable leadership values in all areas of their lives, public and private. Both are passionately concerned that their respective city’s infrastructure supports everyone within its boundaries; each is exploring how to make his city more responsive to those in need. And—importantly, it turns out—both mayors are dads.

Javier Gonzales, 47, is a Santa Fe native and father of two daughters. His upbringing was steeped in traditional Hispanic culture; his family owns the popular Que Suave radio station, ubiquitous across northern New Mexico, and he was Don Diego de Vargas in the Fiestas court one year. He’s also Santa Fe’s first openly gay mayor. Since coming out, he tells other Santa Feans who have yet to go public, “You have a community that’s ready to support you. You won’t be alone.” George Gonzales, Javier’s dad, who served as Santa Fe mayor and Santa Fe County commissioner, provided his son a wonderful example. Gonzales, as an activist championing the minimum wage increase and fairer taxes for big box corporations, for greening and diversifying our local economy and for making Santa Fe safer for its citizens “in order to continue this 400-year journey of culture and history,” has carried these themes through his own stint as Santa Fe County commissioner, his two terms as head of New Mexico’s Democratic party and now as mayor of Santa Fe.

Photo: Maria Clokey, City of Santa Fe

Mayor Gonzales

| Mayor Gonzales

What are you most grateful for about living here in your city? There are so many things about this city that I love, but if I have to pick one, it’s the way that family and the idea of family is so central to the culture here. It goes well beyond the usual nuclear definition, to the extent that we view the whole community as one big family. We’re at our best when we look after one another and care for one another as one family, visitors are welcomed like old friends, and we enjoy our greatest successes together. What is one thing that’s unique to your city that you feel deserves to be appreciated but that too many of us overlook or take for granted? Santa Fe is so well known as a destination city for travelers the world over, recognized for our arts, culture, food and beautiful scenery by groups like Condé Nast, which selected Santa Fe as the number one best small city to visit in America. We’re very excited by what we have to offer in tourism, but one thing that gets overlooked is that we are much more than that. Santa Fe is a great place to live, raise a family, start a business or go to school. Our creative and start-up economy is thriving and growing and there are innovators at work in Santa Fe proving that this is a place where creative ideas and big dreams will be welcomed and nurtured. What accomplishment is closest to your heart that you’d like to leave as your mayoral legacy?

We launched the Children, Youth and Families Community Cabinet with the goal of making sure our community is fully supporting the whole health of our children, from birth to career and beyond. If I have a legacy, I hope it’s that kids born and raised in Santa Fe have access to an education and an economy that allows them to stay in Santa Fe and raise their own families here. What are you most grateful to your constituency for? Taking a chance on me and believing in my vision for our community. 18

NOVEMBER 2014

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story by GAIL SNYDER

Photo: First Lady, Maria Berry

There’s nothing quite like growing up surrounded by family who love and support you. My brothers, my parents and grandparents and all my aunts, uncles and cousins have always been there for me. It was their mentorship and guidance that helped me become the man I am today and I will always be grateful for that experience.

| Mayor Berry If you could wave a magic wand, what single challenge to your city would you like to resolve? I’d create an economy that is diverse beyond the government and tourism sectors, that better supports our community’s role as a hub for entrepreneurial activity and gives every child a pathway up through whole-community support. We’re building to that vision every day, but it takes time and if I had that magic wand, I could make it happen overnight! Describe your family’s tradition of celebrating Thanksgiving when you were growing up. We do the very traditional Thanksgiving. All the cousins and the family get together at a different house every year and make the turkey paired with the traditional New Mexican posole, sopa and red chile. What’s your favorite Thanksgiving memory from your childhood? Every year, depending on the weather, we would either play a big family pickup football game or, if it was snowing, we’d go out and sled down the nearest giant hill. Then of course we’d head back to the house and sit down to eat and watch the Cowboys. What did you love most that your mom made every Thanksgiving? Of course, the turkey and stuffing. But my mom had this special dish—I’ll have to look up the recipe—but it was a macaroni and tomato sauce dish with red chile that was just unbelievable. I couldn’t get enough. How do you and your kids and extended family celebrate Thanksgiving? It’s important to me to preserve the traditions I learned, so we stick to very much the same tradition. We get as many family members as we can together, and for me it’s really rewarding to see my daughters get to spend that quality time with their family members and celebrate all the things we are thankful for. What aspect of your childhood are you most grateful for that’s helped you become who you are today?

Richard Berry, 51, born in Waterloo, Iowa, was raised in Nebraska. He moved to Albuquerque in 1982 to go to UNM—and became a diehard Duke City aficionado right from the start. Albuquerque’s first Republican mayor in over 30 years, he was a member of the New Mexico House of Representatives for the 20th district from 2007 to 2009. While at UNM, he met and married Maria Medina. An Eagle Scout himself, he now participates with their son and was awarded a Silver Beaver award by the Boy Scouts of America for his work. The issues Mayor Berry has particularly chosen to spearhead for Albuquerque citizens are education, public safety and government transparency—so far he’s reduced government spending by over $140 million without layoffs or scaling down of services.

Mayor Berry What are you most grateful for about living here in your city? I’m grateful that we live in a place where you can be who you want to be and be accepted as yourself. Albuquerque’s a very diverse place and a very accepting place, a place where you can chase your dreams and you don’t have to fit some mold that somebody else wants you to fit into—you can make your own life. What is one thing that’s unique to your city that you feel deserves to be appreciated but that too many of us overlook or take for granted? There are a lot of things, actually, that come to mind on that. I’d say the food and the cuisine. I think that the food in New Mexico and particularly in Albuquerque is really unique. New Mexican cuisine is something I’d like to see more of around the country. What accomplishment is closest to your heart that you’d like to leave as your mayoral legacy? I’m not really a legacy type of mayor but I think a great city legacy would definitely be our work with the homeless in our community. When we started tackling the problem of chronic homelessness in Albuquerque, we went out and did surveys. What we found were people that were medically vulnerable, many of whom had been out on the streets for 20 years or more who were most likely going to die out on the streets. So we got everybody— from the business community to the government to the faith community to the private sector—everybody engaged in helping

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

We Asked the Mayor the chronically homeless, and now we have over 400 people housed that would otherwise be living underneath an overpass somewhere. I’m just really proud of our city. What are you most grateful to your constituency for? Well, that one’s easy—for giving me a chance to be the mayor of a great American city and for giving me the opportunity to serve. If you could wave a magic wand, what single challenge to your city would you like to resolve? There’s a lot. That’s hard to give just one. I wish people wouldn’t abuse children. That would be one thing that breaks my heart as the mayor that I see on a regular basis, when you see a child who’s been injured or killed by an adult. Describe your family’s tradition of celebrating Thanksgiving when you were growing up. Well, it was great because it was with Grandpa and Grandma on one side or the other of the family—one year, we’d go to my dad’s parents who lived up on a ranch in north central Nebraska, and the next year we’d go to my mom’s parents who lived in a little town of 400 people outside of Lincoln, Nebraska. We could sled up and down the hills or just get on the tractor and drive it. Thanksgiving was a chance to get out and be with family. What’s your favorite childhood memory of you and your siblings connected to Thanksgiving? I’d say it was just getting together and playing, you know? Just being in the snow. When I was a kid, depending on where we spent Thanksgiving, a lot of times there would be snow and we could have the first chance to really get out and sled or a chance to make a snow fort or a snowman. What did you love most that your mom made every Thanksgiving? Man, I love the green bean casserole! That’s always my favorite. With the crispy onions on the top? Love it! Love the stuffing, too—my mom makes great stuffing. How do you and your kids and extended family celebrate Thanksgiving? Once again, with family. We’re blessed that both Maria’s parents are alive and both my parents are alive and we all live in Albuquerque now—my parents moved here about a year ago—and it’s just a chance for us to get to spend time together and give thanks for all the blessings we’ve had in our lives. What aspect of your childhood are you most grateful for that’s helped you become who you are today? My grandfather was a rancher and a farmer. My other grandfather had a lumberyard and a grain elevator—he died fairly young from lung cancer and my grandmother remarried a dairy farmer. So I got a chance to grow up around people who, you know, wore bib overalls, but they also were well-read, they were self-educated, they were lifelong learners, they were engaged in their communities and they were passionate about what they did. Even though by a lot of standards it would be considered a simple lifestyle, they were very strong individuals, strong in their faith, strong with their families, and just were great contributors to the communities they lived in and I learned that you don’t have to wear a suit and tie to make a big difference in this world. You don’t have to be a Ph.D. to be well educated and smart. 20

NOVEMBER 2014

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he small adobe building on East Marcy Street, previously home to an office space filled with cubicles, now houses the very last thing you might expect and something you’ll be delighted to discover: several enormous deli cases soon to be filled with more cheeses than you can name. I’m surprised by the large, open room, saturated with sunlight from rows of windows and skylights that cast reflections off the glass case fronts and light up the pale mint-colored counters. When I arrive to meet John Gutierrez, one of the partners behind Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, he’s moving from case to counter and back again, grabbing different cheeses and expertly slicing them into an array of shapes. My mouth is watering while I open the bottles of Valpolicella Ripasso and Albariño I’ve brought along. John is putting together a beautiful cheese board with seven different cheeses and an array of condiment dishes filled with fresh persimmon, chestnut honey, grain mustard and pickled beets. Suddenly, he pulls out an enormous leg of jamón ibérico, slicing it by hand to add to the board. In anticipation of the shop’s grand opening in early November, John and I sit down for a tasting to talk about what we each know best, cheese and wine. Before we dive into our feast, I ask John about his background and how he became an expert in cheese. “In 2006, I was a student at the University of Oklahoma. I got a job at a sandwich shop to help pay for school,” he explains. “I ended up being a regular customer there. I’d come in with my paycheck and sit in front of the cheese case for hours, tasting though all the cheeses.” Eventually he was hired at a cheese shop nearby and he’s been hooked ever since. From Oklahoma, John moved to San Francisco where he helped a colleague open a cheese shop and worked as a cheese buyer. “I fell head over heels into the world of cheese,” John says. “I can read scientific documents about cheese and dairy science more easily than I can sit down and read a novel.” His family is from Taos and John decided to move back to New Mexico to open his own shop. “I’m really happy to be here,” he says, smiling, “because it’s what I’ve always envisioned.”

| John Gutierrez of Cheesemongers

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

GOT CHEESE? John believes Santa Fe is a great place for a venue like Cheesemongers because there’s already such a rich food culture here. He explains that the city’s isolated location has been the main obstacle for shops like his. “We’re not along the main distribution paths for cheese in the U.S.,” he explains. “A lot of my work with the shop has to do with logistics. I have to plan orders six to eight weeks in advance.” Cheesemongers will carry about 200 different cheeses during peak season, half domestic and half international, as well as several cheeses made here in New Mexico, including selections from Camino de Paz in Santa Cruz and The Old Windmill Dairy south of Albuquerque. Another deli case will hold a variety of cured meats, pâtés, terrines, galantines and mousses. The shop will also offer crackers, which John plans to source from local bakers, and artisanal mustards, olive oils, chutneys and vinegars. The integrity and sourcing of products at Cheesemongers is hugely important to John, who points out that farmstead cheeses are the real focus of the shop. “We are really committed to working with smaller producers,” John says. “There’s a big difference between small, farmstead cheese and big, commercial cheese. I’m really big on small cheese and I believe in the power of small farming and sustainable agriculture. I want to be the mouthpiece for the small farmers we represent and tell their story.” Cheesemongers will provide small dairies with venues other than farmers markets and grocery stores to sell their products, as well as help local chefs get their hands on cheeses that are difficult to find. “I’ve spoken with several chefs who are very excited,” he tells me. “We’ll be working with local restaurants to get them products that are really hard to find in New Mexico.” As a sommelier working in the thriving food and wine business in Santa Fe, I believe Cheesemongers will be a fantastic complement to our local culinary scene, especially when you take into account the similarities between fine wine and fine cheese. The amazing thing about cheese is that, like wine, it encompasses a variety of different fields, including science (think mold, bacteria and the process of aging), geography and history. The craft of making cheese begins with the quality of the milk and involves many steps along the way, each of which has an impact on the final style and flavor of the cheese. This, to me, sounds just like the process of making wine, although the main ingredient in wine is, of course, grapes. They are both ancient processes. As John points out, “Some of the cheeses we’ll sell in the shop have been made continuously with very little recipe change for up to 6,000 years!” In fact, what John does with cheese is very similar to what I do with wine: we both use our knowledge to help customers find something they’ll love. “I want to demystify cheese,” he says. “I abhor the cult of the expert and lording your knowledge over people to make them feel intimidated about the complexity of what’s in front of them. I want people to be inquisitive but to feel comfortable, instead of being afraid and just asking me to tell them what to get.” He points out that although there are tens of thousands of cheeses in the world, there aren’t that many different styles of cheese. “I want this to be a conversation with people. I want you to go home with a cheese that you love.”

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| John with writer Erin Brooks

That shouldn’t be difficult with the large selection at Cheesemongers and John’s willingness to talk cheese with his customers. During our incredible tasting, he took me through seven very different cheeses, explaining where each one comes from, how it’s made, the aging processes involved and what each cheese might pair well with. We tried a broad range of cheeses from all over the world made from cow, goat and sheep’s milk, including Caña de Cabra, Robiola due Latti, Cabra Blanca, Tomme de Savoie, Comté, Fiore Sardo and the elusive Roquefort, a sheep’s milk blue cheese from the south of France targeted by the FDA for high bacteria levels. Don’t worry, I ate plenty of it during our tasting and felt just fine! I was surprised to find that the Albariño was very cheese-friendly—Albariño and Roliola due Latti is my new favorite pairing! The two came together beautifully, with the wine bringing out the unique goat flavor of the cheese (it’s made with cow, goat and sheep’s milk), and the cheese highlighting a gorgeous, creamy mouthfeel that wasn’t apparent in the wine at first sip. The Ripasso was pure heaven with a bite of Tomme de Savoie and jamón ibérico. The wine brought out the cheese’s rich texture and the savory, umami flavors of the thinly sliced meat. There were endless flavor combinations laid out before us. Each cheese showed different nuances depending on which wine we sipped and which condiments we added. I asked John if he believes there’s such a thing as a perfect pairing. He explained that while there are classics like Roquefort and Sauternes, Gruyere and Champagne and Côtes du Rhône with Brie and Camembert, cheese and wine pairing is, like any pairing, ultimately subjective. “There are very few hard and fast rules,” he explained. “You can have a bad pairing that makes you want to pull your tongue out of your face. Then there are pairings that don’t just compliment each other, but bring out flavors and nuances that you wouldn’t otherwise achieve.” The bad pairings can be just as important as the great ones, because they remind you why you’re putting together cheese and wine in the first place. After making our way through the beautiful cheese board, John and I agree that pairing is less about searching for one fabulous combination and more about the process of trying many different wines and cheeses together, paying attention to all the nuances of flavor. “Tasting cheese is just like tasting wine. It has so many flavors and you experience it with all of your senses.” For a sommelier, introducing someone to a wine they love is a great moment. The same is true for John, who can’t wait to teach people about why cheese is so special. I look forward to attending classes hosted by Cheesemongers, where John will talk about pairing cheese with wine and other beverages. “There’s very little in the world that I value more than food,” John says with a smile. I think he’ll find that many of us in Santa Fe agree. Cheesemongers is located at 130 East Marcy Street in Santa Fe. 505.795.7878. cheesemongersofsantafe.com. Be sure to call ahead to confirm that they are open!

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

story by ERIN BROOKS

Break Out the Hard Stuff!

verywhere I look, trees have thrown off their colorful robes. Crackly piles of yellow leaves lie everywhere, piling up in corners and covering the ground between tree trunks. The afternoons, ever shorter, have a wonderful crisp feel and most days I can smell piñon and cedar fires burning in nearby kivas. Wool sweaters and hats are being pulled down from the top shelves of closets and we’ve all got our eyes on the Santa Fe ski basin, waiting for snow. It’s here: winter has crept up on us. I’ve traded in my salad bowl for the Crock-Pot and likewise it’s time to retire mojitos and mint juleps in favor of darker spirits and warming winter cocktails. I asked some of northern New Mexico’s most talented bartenders for their favorite cold-weather creations. Their original recipes and twists on old classics will have you feeling warm and fuzzy through the holidays and beyond.

The Velvet Bee

From Quinn Stephenson of Coyote Café and Geronimo www.culinarycocktails.com A bartender’s a bartender, right? Not anymore. Perhaps no one embodies the idea of “mixology” better than Quinn Stephenson, partner at Coyote Café and Geronimo restaurant. While a bartender may be well versed in the art of preparing classic cocktails, mixologists specialize in creating their own libations, using ingredients like homemade infusions and bitters. I’ve had the pleasure of working with Quinn in the past and what I remember most took place not behind the bar but in the kitchen, removing seeds from green chiles to use in spicy margaritas, cutting up lemongrass for a new recipe and creating, like scientists, tiny “pearls” of blood orange destined to bounce around in a glass of Champagne. It takes a real mixologist to carry creativity from bar to kitchen and back. This year, Quinn was chosen by Patrón Tequila to participate in its Aficionado program, which sends mixologists to cities throughout the U.S. to represent the brand and show off their own unique recipes created using the company’s products. This Thanksgiving, get your egg nog fix early with the Velvet Bee—homemade egg nog blended with Patrón XO Café and silver tequila infused with coffee.

Mulled Cider

From Chris Milligan, beverage manager and mixologist at Secreto Lounge at the Hotel St. Francis santafebarman.wordpress.com Chris Milligan has learned a thing or two in his 26-year career as a food and beverage professional (23 of those behind the bar). Some of the best classic cocktails I’ve ever had were made by Chris—no one can make a proper Manhattan or martini better than him. After a visit to his bar, you’ll understand the difference between shaken and stirred (stirring cocktails is best to maintain viscosity, unless you’re integrating an element other than booze, like fruit juice or egg whites). Chris has trained bartenders, managers and restaurant owners all over the Southwest and has helped to create training material for some of the top restaurants in the country. Like a true mixologist (or chef!), he emphasizes local ingredients and organic spirits and carries all the bartenders’ tools he needs for the creation of fabulous cocktails to and from work in his own special bag. His mulled cider recipe is a must this winter. “I love this recipe,” he says. “I serve it during Thanksgiving and throughout the holidays so I can relax with family and friends. It’s warm and soothing and I love to use locally made cider.” 64 ounces unfiltered apple cider 3 cinnamon sticks 30 cloves 2 medium oranges 2 pieces star anise 1 bottle of your favorite whiskey, rum or scotch (try Colkegan single malt whiskey from Santa Fe Spirits) Slice the oranges into 4-5 slices each and stick the cloves into the slices. Place all the ingredients in a Crock-Pot on high heat and warm. Reduce heat to low if it begins to boil. If desired, leave out the booze so kids can enjoy as well. Adults can spike their own glasses individually.

8 eggs separated 8 ounces sugar 8 ounces heavy cream 8 ounces Patrón XO Café 8 ounces Pyrat Rum 1 Tablespoon vanilla garnish: ground nutmeg and cinnamon In a mixing bowl blend egg yolks, slowly adding the sugar. Mix in the tequila, cream and rum. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until fluffy and then add the vanilla. Fold the vanilla and egg white mixture into the first mixing bowl and place in the fridge until ready to use. Pour straight from the fridge into a chilled martini glass. Garnish by dusting the top of the filled glass with equal parts nutmeg and cinnamon.

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Flor de Maria

From Natalie Bovis, editor of The Liquid Muse and author of “Edible Cocktails: From Garden-ToGlass” www.theliquidmuse.com Natalie Bovis is a force to be reckoned with in the world of mixology. She is the author of three cocktail books and runs The Liquid Muse, a consulting, educational, cocktail catering and editorial resource for beverage and spirit companies, bar professionals and beyond. She’s also co-creator of OM Cocktails, a line of certified organic vodka-based libations available in a range of flavors. Santa Fe is lucky to lay claim to Natalie, who moonlights at the Anasazi Restaurant and Bar. This winter Natalie’s Flor de Maria cocktail will warm you up, with complex flavors of hibiscus, orange and cherry. 1 ½ ounces reposado tequila (try Gran Centenario Rosangel hibiscus tequila) ½ ounce Luxardo Maraschino liqueur ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice ¾ ounce hibiscus-Cabernet syrup dash of orange bitters garnish: orange flower water, edible flower In a shaker filled with ice, add all the liquid ingredients. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass. Spritz the top of the cocktail with orange flower water and garnish with an edible flower floating on the surface of the drink. Hibiscus-Cabernet syrup: 1 cup hibiscus tea 1 ½ cups white granulated sugar ½ cup Cabernet wine Bring hibiscus tea and sugar to a low boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Let cool slightly, then add the wine. Store in an airtight glass bottle. Refrigerate.

Duke of Earl

From Oscar Nieves, head bartender at Zinc Restaurant Zinc Restaurant in Albuquerque is another must-visit spot if you’re looking for a great classic cocktail with a bit of a twist. Head bartender Oscar Nieves takes classic recipes like the Manhattan, cosmopolitan and gimlet a bit further by using ingredients like house-infused cinnamon whiskey for Manhattans and cranberry-infused vodka for cosmos. He also emphasizes local ingredients including Viracocha vodka and Hacienda Gin from KGB spirits. For the Duke of Earl cocktail, Oscar creates layers of flavor by using Bombay Sapphire gin (infused with ten exotic botanicals including almond, lemon peel, juniper berries, coriander and licorice) and earl grey syrup. Another perfect pick-me-up during the chilly holiday season. 1 ½ ounce Bombay Sapphire gin ½ ounce Earl Grey simple syrup 1 ounce lemon juice garnish: ground cinnamon & sugar Prepare a martini glass by chilling it with ice. Next, use a lemon slice to wet the edge of the glass and drag it through the ground cinnamon and sugar. In a shaker with ice, combine the gin, earl grey syrup and lemon juice. Shake and strain the martini glass. Earl grey syrup: 1 cup water 1 cup white granulated sugar 1 bag earl grey tea Bring water to a boil and then remove from heat. Steep tea bag in the water for 3-4 minutes and remove. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Let cool. Refrigerate. Cinnamon-infused whiskey: Add several cinnamon sticks to a bottle of Jim Beam and let sit for 2 weeks in a cool, dry place.

Sazerac

From Adam Kerr, food and beverage director, and Holly Suazo, assistant food and beverage director, at Doc Martin’s Restaurant at the Taos Inn If we’re talking cocktails, a visit to the Taos Inn, an iconic venue and registered historic landmark (open since 1936) is in order. This summer, the Inn’s Doc Martin’s Restaurant redesigned its cocktail list to emphasize classic recipes, joining other bars across the U.S. that have seen a revival in classic cocktails. There’s nothing as bad as a poorly or incorrectly made vesper, negroni or sazerac. On the same token, there’s nothing so good as a well-made classic cocktail (there’s a reason these recipes have persisted for more than a century). What’s even better than a fantastic classic cocktail? One that features local, small batch spirits from KGB Spirits, distilled in Alcalde, New Mexico. Adam Kerr and Holly Suazo, the folks behind the beverage program at Doc Martin’s, shared their recipe for the sazerac, a drink that dates from the mid-1800s. It’s also perfect for warming up on a cold November evening. 2 ounces KGB Spirits Taos Lightning single barrel straight rye whiskey splash of KGB Spirits Brimstone absinthe 3 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters 1 Tablespoon sugar garnish: lemon twist Rinse a rocks glass with absinthe, discarding any excess absinthe that doesn’t stick to the glass. In a shaker with ice combine the whiskey, sugar and bitters. Roll the ingredients—shaking will cause the drink to become cloudy. Strain into the rocks glass rinsed with absinthe. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Still thirsty? Visit localflavormagazine.com for more holiday cocktail recipes.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

Celebrating the Cranes story by GORDON BUNKER

2013 Festival of the Cranes Photo Contest 2nd place winner in the category of Refuge Wildlife or Scenery, Steven Yabek

erhaps you’ve already seen a loose V-formation of sandhill cranes flying south along the Rio Grande and heard their haunting, chortling calls. Perhaps you’ve felt a wonderment, a longing, stir inside of you. Now is a good time to follow the cranes and that longing to one of their favorite wintering places, the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in San Antonio, New Mexico. It’s also time to celebrate their arrival and partake in the Festival of the Cranes. Now in its 27th year, the festival is put on by the Friends of the Bosque and runs from November 18 to 23. Over the years it’s grown to more than 100 events (registration is required); six days of all things aviary, workshops, guided tours, guest speakers, and the list goes on.

But what’s to celebrate about birds … why drive a half hour south of Socorro to just look? Well, birds are seriously cool, remarkably adapted to their element and fascinating in their behavior. The stars of this show, the sandhills and others—to see them in this setting will change you, will give you a deep appreciation of nature you won’t get any other way. Once you start watching them, it’s easy to get hooked. You might even find yourself becoming part of the (ever so slightly eccentric) sub-culture known as birders. Paula, my partner in this adventure, and I decide to go for the full pre-screech-ofdawn-mass-ascension effect. We get a room at a motel in Socorro. The place isn’t fancy, but we’re only going to rest our heads here for a few hours—literally. After going out for a bite of dinner and a walk, we turn in. It seems odd to go to bed at 8:30 at night but the front desk will be dialing us with a wake-up call at 4 a.m. If you’re like me, in anticipation of an early start, you don’t sleep. So I toss. And I turn. And I toss and turn some more. I look at the clock, the glowing red numerals burn into my weary retinas. 10:30, 12:56, 2:14 … ugh. Then the phone rings. 26

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What the? Huh? I pick up the handset. “Good morning! This is your wake-up call from the front desk,” chirps the receptionist. Whatever she’s having, I want some. We groan, we get up and stumble around, we perform the absolute minimum of morning ablutions, clamber down the stairs, get in the car and start driving. It’s dark and it’s cold and the birds (mutter) aren’t even up yet (grumble). We nosh on the breakfasty items stashed in the cooler. But there’s no coffee. By some minor miracle we make it to the Bosque. I’m heartened to see a few other cars in line at the entrance. We’re not the only ones crazy enough to be doing this. Someone running a coffee concession here could make a fortune. The perky park ranger gives us a map and an intro, nothing of which I retain. Thank goodness Paula has been here before. I give her my most forlorn “help me” look. She points at the map and says, “Take the north loop.” Right about now I’m good with simple directives. We get to an observation point next to one of the marshes. I stare out into the murk. It’s still dark. We get out of the car. Frost glows white on low scrub growth. We are quiet; we stand still with a few other intrepid lovers of nature. The air is damp, heavily laden with marsh smells. The cold seeps into us. We can just make out the roosting birds, in this case primarily snow geese. Everything is grey. I want to go home, or at least back to the motel. By now there’s coffee at the motel. Hot coffee. Despite my best efforts to erase this pleasant chimera from my mind, it sticks; but we’re committed (perhaps ought to be committed), we wait. Ever so slowly, the sky brightens and the full scope of what is before us becomes clear. There are thousands of birds huddled in the shallow water—thousands. Moments of cold and quiet pass.

“The force to migrate, the desire for winter shelter are as constant as our days and the changing of the seasons. It wasn’t so long ago we humans did much the same; a little bit of the pull is still in us.”

2013 Festival of the Cranes Photo Contest 1st place winner in the category of Refuge Wildlife or Scenery, Jack Panzeca

Suddenly, without any apparent signal, all of them take flight. A multitude of wings beat the air, the clatter intensifies to a roar. In a madness of honking the birds rise, the flock fills the sky, it shifts in direction, together they orient themselves. We stand and watch this amazing spectacle. The flock shifts again and recedes into the sky. An eerie quiet settles on the marsh. Something deep inside of me connects with this elemental life, tears well in my eyes, my heart pounds, I have never seen anything like this. The force to migrate, the desire for winter shelter are as constant as our days and the changing of the seasons. It wasn’t so long ago we humans did much the same; a little bit of the pull is still in us. We take one of the festival’s morning tours of the Bosque and see so many kinds of birds I lose count. A flock of sandhills happily camps out in a field, planted especially for them with corn. Yes, they plant crops for the birds. I can’t imagine anything better. The sun climbs the sky, it’s turning into genuine daytime. The refuge is beautiful, the marshes, the stands of willow and cottonwood. Foliage shifting to yellow rustles in a brisk fall breeze, the Rio Grande slips peacefully by. Back at the visitor center, we take in the Raptor ID exhibit, put on by Hawks Aloft. Ever have a peregrine falcon look you in the eye? Or get up-close and personal with a cooper’s hawk or a great-horned owl? These creatures have remarkable presence. It’s a rare treat to see them. Unlike the cranes and the geese, until next spring that is, we head north for home. Was the trip worth it? The sleep deprivation, the coffee deprivation? Without question, yes, a hundred times, yes.

For early morning visitors, dress warmly in layers (which you’ll incrementally peel off over the course of the day), and start out with a warm hat. Bring binoculars and your camera. And a giant telephoto lens if you have one. Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. fws.gov/refuge/bosque_del_apache. 575.835.1828. Friends of the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. friendsofthebosque.org. friends@sdc.org.

2013 Festival of the Cranes Photo Contest 3rd place winner in the category of People on the Refuge, Cindy Sanders

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

“If you make a living in a community and you don’t put back, then you don’t deserve to be there. We’re as homegrown as it gets here. That’s truly what being a part of your community is about.”

n 2013, Steve Paternoster, owner of Nob Hill restaurants Scalo Northern Italian Grill and Elaine’s, received the Cornerstone Humanitarian Award, which the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation presents to an individual for his or her personal commitment to community service. Paternoster says he was “tickled” by the honor, then immediately acknowledges there were “about four million other people who should have received the award” before him and comments that the true thanks and the ability to give goes to the people who do the work—the wait staff, the manager who comes in on a Sunday, the kitchen guys and, to a much lesser extent, himself. Giving back to the New Mexico community has become part of their business model. And it works. Why, Paternoster asks, would you spend hundreds of dollars on radio ads that no one listens to or thousands of dollars on television ads that no one watches? The best way, he says, to get your message heard is to be of service to your community. Scalo and Elaine’s do not strive to be places that simply employ people and serve food; they strive to connect and become an integral part of the Albuquerque community. Albuquerque is an amazing place that has extraordinary needs and Paternoster feels it’s crucial to lend a hand when and where it’s needed. “What we do is what we hope somebody would do for us if we were in a position where we were compromised, or our house had burned down, or a loved one was sick or something had happened that put somebody up against the eight ball.” Restaurants, he says, are unique to the community because you can always make stone soup; there’s always a way to match resources to where there’s need. For Paternoster, all of New Mexico is really a big small community and he feels we have a better concept of being a neighbor than anywhere else he’s lived and worked around the United States. For example, 10 times over the past eight years, Scalo has hosted Drag Queen Bingo, an event that has raised thousands of dollars for New Mexico Aids Services (NMAS). HIV has not gone away, and it continues to have a devastating impact, though at times the media has given the false impression it’s been “cured.” The HIV-affected community is one that Paternoster is in touch with on a lot of levels. He lost a family member to HIV in 1992, as well as friends and thousands of community members when he was a flight attendant in the 1980s. He also lost his 16-year-old daughter, Haley, to intravenous drug use in April of 2010. “Drag Queen Bingo has a positive effect on the community in a lot of ways, not just money,” Paternoster says, “it’s a banner that we hang a great afternoon under and everybody knows it’s going for a good cause and they tend to give a little deeper from their pocket because of it.” There have been times during Drag Queen Bingo that Paternoster has waded out in the crowd to up the stakes further, telling the donors if they give $500 to NMAS, he’ll arrange for a dinner for 10 to be cooked at that fortunate person’s house. They’ve done that

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of Scalo

Steve Paternoster

stor y by EMILY BEENEN photos by JOY GODFREY

| Steve Paternoster with Chris Gutierrez; Humberto Barela; and Joshua Chacon

10 times, he says, and “900 clients from NMAS acutely feel the results of that money that comes out of the pockets of our community. That helps them get their dog fed, helps them get retrovirals, condoms, access to a food bank, pharmaceuticals, home visits, an arm around their shoulder, caseworkers, a place to be accepted when you’re really, really sick.” Between the two restaurants, he says, they have the resources to give and not hurt themselves. With his daughter passing away, Paternoster says, if “I can be of use to the HIV community or to a kid that’s got a drug problem or a kid that’s in children’s court or an artist that’s struggling to get their work put out in front of people, I’ll do that all day long. And it makes sense to do that.” He’s certain at times it makes his staff nuts, and he’s aware that it extends already brutally long restaurant hours, but, he says, they’ve never complained. They’ve hosted fundraising brunches at Elaine’s—they give the food, the place, they provide the people to serve and cook—and folks come in and are able to raise money that takes them a long way in their quest to raise awareness, say, about what happens when kids get sick from addictive drugs. As far as Paternoster is concerned, “If you make a living in a community and you don’t put back, then you don’t deserve to be there. We’re as homegrown as it gets here. That’s truly what being a part of your community is about.” That business philosophy was taught to him; it wasn’t something he instinctively knew. His mentors, Greg Atkin and Tom White, were the founding partners of Scalo. “These guys made it possible for me to own Scalo,” Paternoster says. “They gave me goals to shoot for, they taught me how to serve my community and like it. I never forgot that. When I saw that— that example that they provided for me—it was the thing that set them apart from anyone else I had ever met in my life. They never wanted to be recognized for their giving and I don’t know that I necessarily want to either because the recognition I get from my own self for feeling good goes a long way.” Paternoster remembers clearly the “aha” moment when this lesson crystallized in his work ethic. Years ago, Scalo was sponsoring a Catholic-Jewish dialogue for close to 300 guests at Congregation Albert up in the Northeast Heights and Greg Atkin simply underwrote the whole thing out of his pocket by writing a check to his own restaurant. “They gave very gracefully, those guys,” Paternoster recalls. “And I dug it, I really dug it.” All four partners at Scalo and Elaine’s—General Manager Elaine Blanco, Chef Andrew Gorski, Chef Garrick Mendoza and Paternoster—have made a commitment to give on some level. “We all want to pitch in when somebody is hurting. What we don’t always have is the checkbook to do it,” he laments. However, “you can always figure out some spaghetti and garlic bread—there’s always a bottle of wine hidden somewhere. You can bring people together around food and it’s a beautiful thing.”

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

Scalo To Paternoster, it just seems like a good way to pay it forward, especially in light of what happened to his daughter. I ask if the giving will ever be enough, as a parent, to cover the loss. For him, he says, “That’s really the only way anymore to say anything about what happened. I think it’s good therapy— it always makes me feel good, and anything that can make you feel good after something shitty like that happens helps.” It’s not something he tries to escape nor something he can escape; it’s part of who he is and time, he admits, hasn’t done much to take away the pain, only make it a little more tolerable. Reflecting back on his Cornerstone honor, he notes, “It is an absolutely perfect award for an imperfect guy. I don’t believe that I’m special. I’m doing what I feel right doing.” Scalo is located at 3500 Central Avenue SE in Albuquerque. 505.255.8781. scalonobhill.com. Elaine’s is directly across the street at 3503 Central Avenue NE in Albuquerque. 505.433.4782. elainesnobhill.com.

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| Chef Andrew Gorski at Scalo’s paella night

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| A “family” of patrons at paella night

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Enjoy a warm, wonderful and delicious Thanksgiving! We thank you for tuning in to The Oasis!

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

StillHungry?

story by CAITLIN RICHARDS

ovember. Evenings are longer, the air is cooler. Outside is the scent of piñon or cedar coming from chimneys. Inside, we gather round the table or crowd into the kitchen, seeking heartier meals and comfort food. There are, of course, the two big meals in November and December, but the season as a whole lends itself to a different type of entertaining than we do in the summer. More than any other season, this is a time when we reach for tradition, pulling out old family recipes and the memories that accompany them. Memories that can often be as nourishing as the meal itself.

hef Cristian Pontiggia’s first memory of food is his mother’s ravioli. “I was about 5,” he says, when he had his first awareness of food. He remembers tasting his mother’s homemade ravioli with tomato sauce, “simple, but so tasty. I still have the memory in my head.” Fresh pasta was made daily in Cristian’s home; on Sundays his mother was joined in the kitchen by all the women in the family, and the one little boy. “Making food is kind of cool, I always wanted to do this job!” On Christmas and Easter, his mother made rabbit with green peppercorn sauce. It was always the holiday meal, reserved for the two biggest family days. Though these days when Cristian heads back to Italy, his mother asks when he is coming to dinner and says, “I’ve got the rabbit.” This is Chef Cristian’s twist on his mother’s recipe.

Coniglio alla Vaniglia Ingredients: 4 rabbit loins 12 slices pancetta 1 teaspoon garlic 10 green peppercorns 1 Tablespoon olive oil 1 shot of brandy 1 quart milk 1 cup rabbit broth 1 vanilla bean 1 Tablespoon crushed pistachios salt white pepper Clean the skin off the rabbit loins. Place 3 slices of pancetta side by side to wrap a rabbit loin all the way around. Repeat with each loin. Sear on all sides. | Cristian and his mom

For the sauce, begin by sautéing the garlic and green peppercorns in olive oil. After 2 minutes, flambé with brandy. Add milk, broth and vanilla bean. Reduce until sauce starts to thicken. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve rabbit over a bed of the sauce and sprinkle plate with crushed pistachios. Buon Appetito! Chef Cristian Pontiggia is the executive chef at Osteria d’Assisi in Santa Fe, 58 South Federal Place. 505.986.5858. osteriadassisi.com.

NOVEMBER 2014

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sk Chef Fred Muller for a recipe from his mother’s kitchen and he doesn’t hesitate a second. Fried chicken. “I’m from the South,” he says. “Fried chicken is served at any family event.” Fred started helping out in the kitchen for selfish reasons; he was always starving and he thought that if he helped out, dinner would appear that much faster. One of his earliest tasks was to be in charge of putting the chicken in a brown paper bag and shaking it to coat it with the seasoning. Fred warns not to be discouraged if your fried chicken is not perfect on your first try. It takes a little practice, but the end results are well worth it.

Mom’s Fried Chicken Ingredients: 1 3½ pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces 1 quart buttermilk ½ teaspoon tabasco sauce 2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 ounces fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped Crisco for frying Mix buttermilk and tabasco together in a nonreactive bowl. Place chicken in buttermilk mixture and coat completely. Refrigerate overnight, stirring occasionally. Mix flour, salt, pepper and sage together in a large bowl and set aside. In a 4 inch deep cast iron skillet, melt enough Crisco to reach half way up the side. Heat until it is shimmering (approximately 360 degrees). Dredge 4 pieces of chicken in flour mixture, making sure it is totally coated. Test oil by dipping a small corner of one of the pieces of the chicken in the oil. It will start to immediately fry if it is hot enough. Place chicken skin side down. (Do not crowd the chicken.) Cook 8 to10 minutes. Flip with tongs (do not pierce the chicken using a fork). Cook another 8 to 10 minutes until the internal pieces are 165 degrees on the thicker parts. Remove chicken, drain on paper towels or paper grocery sacks. Readjust heat on skillet so that the oil is still 360 degrees and then dredge and fry second batch.

hef Fernando Ruiz’s mother told him to always “cook from your heart.” Red chile pork posole was a staple at Chef Fernando’s house—his mother made it at least once a week from a recipe passed down from his mother’s mother. To this day, “it | Fernando Ruiz reminds me of my mom, every time I see it on a menu.” Cooking (and eating) was a big part of Fernando’s culture. “Food brings the family together.” But Chef Fernando doesn’t want to give all the credit to his mother; he says it has to be shared with his “beautiful wife, Michelle. If it weren’t for her, I wouldn’t be doing this.”

Red Chile Pork Posole Ingredients: 2 Tablespoons canola oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1½ cups diced onion 3 Tablespoons dry oregano 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 cup red chile puree 1 cup ancho or pasilla chile puree 2 pounds pork shoulder, cut in 1 inch pieces 4 cups hominy 2 gallons pork or beef stock 1½ teaspoons salt Cilantro, green onions and lime for garnish Add oil to stock pot on medium heat and sauté the first two ingredients and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add oregano, cumin and chile purees and let simmer for 15 minutes. In a separate pan, brown your pork in a little bit of oil then add it to the simmering pot. Add the hominy, the salt and the stock. Simmer for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Add chopped cilantro and green onions and fresh lime for garnish and enjoy! Chef Fernando Ruiz is executive chef at Santacafe in Santa Fe, 231 Washington Avenue. 505.984.1788. santacafe.com.

Serve with mashed potatoes, gravy and biscuits. Chef Fred Muller is the executive chef and partner at El Meze in Taos, 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575.751.3337. elmeze.com. | Fernando’s mom

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

NOVEMBER 2014

hef Jonathan Perno grew up in New Mexico in a household that had a “lot of traditional New Mexico food, especially around the holidays.” Meals were always at the table and the food was the focal point. “We were always excited when she made cakes,” Chef Jonathan says of his mother. He and his brothers would crowd into the kitchen to see who got the beaters, the spoon and the bowl to lick clean. Today he keeps his heritage with him in the kitchen. “All the chiles I use now are via my mother’s methods.” His lentil and winter squash salad is a hearty addition to any holiday table, where “people should be together. When there’s good food happening, you can’t beat that.”

French Green Lentil Salad with Winter Squash

Ingredients: 2 cups French green lentils (Du Pays) water as needed 1 medium carrot, small dice ½ large red onion, small dice 1 rib celery, small dice 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup Dijon mustard ½ cup + 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste pinch sugar ¼ bunch parsley, rough chop 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, large dice 1 cup toasted chopped walnuts

| Perno boys

In a 4 quart sauce pot add 6 cups water and cleaned lentils. Bring to a boil, drain, rinse and add back to pot with 6 more cups water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 25 minutes or until beans are tender. Turn off heat, stir in salt to taste and let sit for at least 5 minutes. Meanwhile, mix together carrot, onion, celery, garlic, vinegar, mustard and ½ cup olive oil and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Set aside. Drain beans, toss with dressing, cover with plastic and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes, tossing and stirring a couple of times throughout. While beans are marinating, heat 2 Tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Once hot, add butternut, season with salt and pepper, allow to caramelize for a few minutes on all sides and sauté until tender. Taste and adjust seasoning on lentils, toss with butternut, place in serving bowl and garnish liberally with chopped parsley and walnuts. Jonathan Perno is the executive chef at Los Poblanos in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 4803 Rio Grande Boulevard NW. 505.344.9297. lospoblanos.com.

NOVEMBER 2014

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