Fleur du Mal

DARE to dream

Inspired by the colourful boldness of the 80s, Marcell von Berlin’s collection creates forward-thinking momentum in an era of pandemic-paralysis.

By KATIE LISTER

When a global financial crisis hits, you have one of two choices: to give in or to lean in. To give in would mean to surrender, accept defeat, let the external forces surrounding you dictate your fate. Whereas to lean in signifies embracing the circumstances, being optimistic, grabbing hold of the steering wheel, and being resourceful - thinking quickly to thrive in the face of adversity. It’s not how hard you work, it’s how smart you work. Innovation is born during times of duress. Diamonds can only form under pressure after all.

Designer label Marcell von Berlin’s very DNA is made from all of the main ingredients that would prepare it well to flourish and blossom when the crisis hit: the brand is infused with fun and fearless optimism, forward-thinking vision, confidence, strength, and boldness. This empowering philosophy and vision has attracted mega-stars as brand muses, including Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Kris Jenner and Maluma.

Over the years since its 2012 debut, the luxury house has championed an exuberant “dare to dream and be daring” celebration of fashion, with cutting-edge, avant-garde designs that challenge the status quo, test boundaries, and then step over them. There is no fun in being overly conservative. Rather, joy is found in pushing the envelope of self-expression.

When the pandemic hit in early 2020, the world shifted into minimalist sensibility: yoga pants, t-shirts, and sweatpants immediately became the all-day, everyday go-to pieces worldwide. But Marcell Pustul, the founder and creative director of Marcell von Berlin had other plans in mind for this lockdown with seemingly no end in sight. Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the designer led the way in lifting everyone’s spirits out of their dark and dullened cavernous lives into a fun, brightly coloured world. His Fall/Winter 2021 collection titled ‘Fashion Remains’ oozes confidence, strength and futuristic fashion fantasies come to life. “Fashion is yearning to be enjoyed and revealed again,” quotes Pustul in his opening remarks about the collection.

His optimistic stance of hope and enthusiasm in the face of the pandemic’s challenges were a breath of fresh air: when everything seemed paralyzed in time forever, he saw this as a catalyst for opportunity: “The passion for creativity, artistry, and beauty relentlessly thrive to renaissance a new age. We are heading into a new direction as the world faces the unknown, but what we do know is that art and fashion will and always remain.”

It is hard not to feel happy, liberated and empowered when seeing and wearing the collection featuring themes of rock’n’roll chic, colour blocking, with a touch of disco. The sequin, leather, and cotton suits have made an electrifying comeback as key statement pieces. The collection of western boots are drool-worthy and add punch to any look.

There was no grander way to present the collection during lockdown than in collaboration with Lady Gaga’s creative director and stylist Nicola Formichetti, through a fashion film and lookbook shoot produced at the Eric Lloyd Wright residence in Malibu. This new boldness was followed up in September when Marcell von Berlin unveiled the Spring/Summer 2022 collection in an energized presentation bursting with color at the architecturally iconic Sheats-Goldstein residence in the Hollywood Hills, with a star-studded lucky few in attendance.

A brand such as Marcell von Berlin is just what everyone needs in their wardrobe as the world emerges out of the lockdown cocoon. The latest collection is a nod to the 1980s, one of fashion’s most

FASHION

“FASHION IS THE ARMOR TO SURVIVE THE REALITY OF EVERYDAY LIFE” — Bill Cunningham

eclectic and bold decades. It’s “a resurgence in fashion ignited by the post-lockdown desire for fashion that is fun, powerful, and full of energy,” says Pustul. “From shoulder pads, power suits, to puffy sleeves and high-waisted jeans – my old favorites are back again.” There is a contemporary revival of the decade’s loud expressiveness with oversized silhouettes, with emphasis on the shoulders and cloud-like sleeves – bursting with bright colors and zany prints. Infused with references to pop and punk culture, the era of creative individuality and the current times have set the stage for a fashion reset.

Everything arrives bigger and bolder, from sharp-shouldered, highlighter print dresses, oversized silhouettes, power suits, sequin skirts, to leather jackets, trench coats, and high-waisted denim pieces. The accessories collection welcomes never before seen python-embossed boots and sandals, satin pumps, summery logo buckle slides and dazzling strass mules; and refreshing new bags in breathtaking color palettes and unique prints. “The decade gave us Madonna, Sade, Tina Turner, and Cher, plus numerous other superstars whose sense of style influences many now. And isn’t that exactly what we need right now? Clothes that make you a little powerful? We’re on the brink of reemerging into the world and showing off a little; taking up some extra space feels irresistible,” exclaims Marcell.

In the darkest days these past two years, the brand’s collections have given us a well-needed dose of Vitamin D enriched sunlight. As the pandemic fades, we see a bright future ahead, with Marcell von Berlin leading the way.

St Barth’s residents and visitors are in luck: Marcell von Berlin’s collections are available here on the island at L’Officiel’s newlyopened Le Carré pop-up concept boutique in the heart of Gustavia’s shopping district.