Lonely Planet's Pocket Guidebook Relaunch 2024

POCKET GUIDE SERIES

Discover twice the place in half the time

New cover & internal design: releasing from September 2024

Pocket relaunch

For short trips, usually city breaks, we want to solve the following user problems:

• There’s too much to choose from.

Help me quickly make decisions.

• Using public transport for the first time is intimidating. I’m worried I’ll do it wrong.

• I don’t want to miss the must-sees.

But I don’t want my trip to be predictable.

• I want to tailor my trip to my unique interests

• I want to enjoy exploring cool neighbourhoods on foot

• I want to sample the best local food

• I have just a few days - make them perfect for me

“New York City delivers it all in one exciting package. Indie boutiques and progressive restaurants compete for your time with world-class museums and striking landmarks that reflect the city’s riveting and complex history.”

Congratulations City

Cover, Spine and Back Cover

• “Discover twice the city in half the time”

• “Discover twice the place in half the time”

Front cover:

• Title is more closely aligned with blue spine.

• Style all caps, in colour chosen from palette to complement the image.

Spine: white title, colour used for detailing

Back cover:

• Oval image (as used in blue spine)

• Quote from the writer

• Bullet points entice you to start browsing

“New York City delivers it all in one exciting package. Indie boutiques and progressive restaurants compete for your time with world-class museums and striking landmarks that reflect the city’s riveting and complex history.”

Title colour palette

September 2024

October 2024

Our Picks

There’s too much to choose from.

Help me quickly make some decisions.

Start the book with Our Picks - quick lists of the best each place has to offer. Just 12-18 pages to choose the outline of your trip.

Architectural Experiences

The bombs of WWII may have devastated much of Berlin’s architectural heritage, but thanks to painstaking post-war reconstruction and lucky sites that survived with nary a shrapnel wound, the city is still a veritable architectural wonderland.

Previous layout

Marvel at the Neue Nationalgalerie (above), the masterpiecelis deruptas voluptae nam reiusam et quae. temple by Mies van der Rohe. (p000)

Pose with the masterpiece of sculptural modernism Nequam estisque dit voluptus doptam ra conectur at the Berliner Philharmonie. (p000)

Wander through the Sony Center the most striking building on Potsdamer Platz. (p000)

Check out Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s grand colonnaded front of the neoclassical Altes Museum (p000)

Take in the neoclassical splendour of the Torem aliquae mos cum lab il illabo. Nequam estisque dit voluptugorgeous Gendarmenmarkt square. (p000)

Connect with the past at Daniel Libeskind’s Nequam estisque dit voluptus doluptam ra conectur landmark zinc-skinned Jewish Museum. (p000)

500pxRF_75897459.jpg

guarding Checkpoint Charlie in Germany.

Mark Heine/500px ©

“Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin, Central Europe, Europe, outdaytime, two people, people, travel, destinations, landmark, American flag, patriotism, identity, American culture, actor, years, young adult, 20s adult, male, man, young adult man, checkpoint, scene, Caucasian ethnicity, Middle ethnicity, guard, protection, uniform, uniform, hut, built structure, sandstanding, looking away”

shutterstockRF_734260522.jpg

GERMANY APRIL 20, 2016: Hacke’s Courtyards (Hackesche Hofe) - series of courtyards joined together to one large commultiple uses; one of Berlin’s most tourist attractions.

Kiev.Victor/Shutterstock ©

berlin, day, market, travel, city, construction, building, sun, restaurant, architecture, color, window, europe, urban, tourism, architectural, structure, cultural, sightseeing, courtyard, german, landmark, mitte, district, hacke courtyards, germany, destinahackescher, central, sunny, hackesche european, building exterior, capital attraction, outside

Three Perfect Days

I have just a few days - help make them perfect for me. Research shows this to be one of our most popular features: Three Perfect Days is an at-a-glance starter kit for travellers to mould into their perfect trip

PERFECT DAYS

Three Perfect Days

Four Perfect Days

Day 1

Plan

One day in Berlin? Check off the key sights on this whirlwind itinerary. Book ahead for access to the Reichstag (p44 dome, then snap a photo of the Brandenburg Gate (p85 before exploring the Holocaust Memorial (p48 and admiring the contemporary architecture of Potsdamer Platz (p77).

Head to Checkpoint Charlie (pictured; p88 and saunter over to Gendarmenmarkt (p52) square and lunch at Galeries Lafayette (p57).

Head east and pop into the brand-new Humboldt Forum (p68 culture centre and the Pergamonmuseum (p62) on Museum Island.

Wind down on a river cruise book ahead for dinner at Frea (p101) and wrap up with cocktails at Buck & Breck (p102).

Day 2

Start the day at the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (p94), where you can try to come to grips with life in Berlin when the Wall still stood. Poke around the boutiques on Kastanienallee in Prenzlauer Berg before grabbing lunch at W-Der Imbiss (p168).

Stroll down to the Scheunenviertel to explore the Hackesche Höfe (pictured; p98 and the New Synagogue (p99) before enjoying a coffee-andcake break at riverside Petit Bijou (p63 with a view of the ornate Bode-Museum.

Head to Kreuzberg for dinner at Con Tho (p139), then follow up with a bar-hop around Kottbusser Tor (p126), pulling up at neighbourhood favourites such as Würgeengel, Möbel Olfe and Otto Rink.

the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (p110), then – assuming it’s not Sunday – satisfy your shopping cravings along Kurfürstendamm capped by lunch in the Kantini (p114) food hall.

Next head to the striking Daniel Libeskind–designed Jüdisches Museum (p129), then head to Tempelhofer Feld (pictured; p145 to see how an old airport has been transformed into a sustainable park and playground. Wrap up the day with dinner at Terz (p140 in Schillerkiez,

ticket to Schloss Sanssouci (p173), a rococo palace, then take a stroll in the surrounding park littered with smaller palaces and the Chinesisches Haus (p173).

Head into Potsdam’s old town for a spin around the Holländisches Viertel (Dutch Quarter; pictured) or marvel at art in the dashing Museum Barberini (p175) before heading back to Berlin for a post-sightseeing beer at Pratergarten (p169).

For dinner check out what the Georgian food craze is all about at Prenzlauer Berg’s Der Blaue Fuchs (p168), then head to Bryk Bar (p170 for a nightcap.

To see the very best of Berlin’s many sights, sounds and smells, we’ve created some itineraries that will have you hitting the ground running and not missing a beat.

Only have one day?

MORNING

Check off the key sights on this whirlwind itinerary. Book ahead for access to the Reichstag dome (p000), then snap a selfie with the Brandenburg Gate (p000) before exploring the Holocaust Memorial (p000). Ponder Cold War madness at Checkpoint Charlie (p000), then saunter over to gorgeous Gendarmenmarkt (p000).

AFTERNOON

After lunch, stroll down Unter den Linden (p000) and pop into the brandnew Humboldt Forum (p000) culture centre, followed by a spin around the Neues Museum (p000) on Museum Island.

EVENING

Head to the Scheunenviertel for boutique hopping, then process the day’s impressions over dinner, for instance at Frea (p000) or Trio (p000). Abores ditiis eicia aut labor

A weekend trip

MORNING

Start the day with a stroll along the East Side Gallery (p000), then take the M10 tram to the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (p000) to understand the grim reality of the Berlin Wall. Grab lunch on Oderberger Strasse or Kastanienallee.

AFTERNOON

Make your way to Alexanderplatz to catch bus 100 (p000) for the ride to Kurfürstendamm (p000) in western Berlin. If you’re not into shopping, say hi to the menagerie at the Zoo Berlin (p000), take in top photography at C/O Berlin (p000) or get your royalty fix at Schloss Charlottenburg (p000).

EVENING

Wind down the day with a cold beer at Schleusenkrug (p000), then indulge in authentic Asian cuisine on Kantstrasse (p000).

A short break

MORNING

Kick off with a tour of the Stasi Prison (p000) to learn about one of the most sinister aspects of life under socialism in former East Germany. Follow up with a saunter along Karl-MarxAllee (p000), East Berlin’s showcase boulevard, then find a lunch spot around Boxhagener Platz

AFTERNOON

Make your way over to historic Tempelhof airport, the site of the famous 1948–49 Berlin Airlift, then explore its former airfield, Tempelhofer Feld (p000), that’s been transformed into a sustainable park and all-ages playground.

EVENING

Venture into multicultural Neukölln for dinner before checking out the bars along Weserstrasse and its side streets.

DAYS

Get Prepared

I have just a few days - help make them perfect for me.

On a short break, time is precious. Our planning pages give you just the info you need beforehand to hit the ground running.

BOOK AHEAD

Two to three months before Book tickets for the Berliner Philharmonie (p000), the Staatsoper (p000), Sammlung Boros (p000) and big events.

One month before Reserve a table at trendy or Michelin-starred restaurants, especially for Friday and Saturday dinners.

Two weeks before Book online tickets for the Reichstag dome (p000), the Neues Museum (p000) and the Pergamonmuseum (summer only; p000).

TIPPING

Things are gradually changing but, overall, Germans still consider it rude to leave the tip on the table. Instead, tell the server the total amount you want to pay. If you don’t need change, say Stimmt so (that’s fine).

DAILY BUDGET

Budget: Less than €125

Manners Matter

Arriving in Berlin

A Berlin Brandenburg Airport

FEX Airport Express trains run twice hourly (30 minutes); RE7 and RB14 trains hourly (30 minutes); S9 trains every 20 minutes (45 minutes). All train journeys cost €3.60. Taxi to city centre €60.

L Berlin Hauptbahnhof

Main train station is in the city centre near the government district; it’s served by S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram, bus and taxi.

J Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof

(ZOB)

The central bus station is served by the U-Bahn line U2 (Kaiserdamm) and S-Bahn 41/42 (Messe Süd/ICC). Fare is €2.90. Taxis cost €15 to City West, €28 to Alexanderplatz. y

Getting Around

X U-Bahn

Most efficient way to travel; operates 4am to 12.30am and all night Friday, Saturday and public holidays. From Sunday to Thursday, half-hourly night buses take over.

b S-Bahn

Less frequent than U-Bahn trains but with fewer stops; useful for longer distances. Same operating hours as the U-Bahn.

J Bus Slow but useful for sightseeing on the cheap. Run frequently 4.30am to 12.30am; half-hourly night buses in the interim. MetroBuses (designated eg M1, M19) operate 24/7.

U Tram

Only in the eastern districts; MetroTrams (designated eg M1, M2) run 24/7.

Plan Your Trip Need to Know 37

Berliners are a relaxed bunch, but manners are important. Etiquette when meeting new people is to shake hands and say guten morgen before noon, guten Tag between noon and 6pm, or guten Abend after 6pm.

Germans use the same word –Entschuldigung – to say “excuse me” (to attract attention) and “sorry” (to apologise). If drinking wine, the proper toast is Zum Wohl – with beer, it’s Prost.

Dress Codes

Berlin is a city with no rules when it comes to fashion. Whether you wear a tight leather suit or a floral crown, you’ll be welcomed with open arms. Trends change depending on which district you visit. In Charlottenburg (p000) and Mitte (p000), people tend to wear fancier and more elegant clothing, while in laid-back Kreuzberg (p000)

or Neukölln (p000), you’ll rarely find anyone showing off the latest catwalk collection.

Things to Know

Sundays Most shops close on Sundays for Ruhetag (the day of rest), so plan to do any shopping on other days.

Späti You’ll see these pint-sized late-night shops everywhere and they’re integral to the city’s everyday life. Call in for snacks, alcohol and beverages, tobacco etc. and stay to hang out.

Crossing the road If you stroll out when it’s not a green pedestrian light - even if you feel it’s safe to do so - you could quickly face some deathly stares or even some harsh words.

Free tours You know, there’s no such thing as a free lunch. There are many great free tours to take, but make sure to tip your guide (it’s the only pay they get).

● Dorm bed or peer-to-peer rental: from €25

● Doner kebab: €5–6

● Club cover: €10–25

● Public transport 24-hour ticket: €8.80

Midrange: €125–250

● Private apartment or double room: €100–150

● Two-course dinner with wine: €50–80

● Guided tour: €15–30

● Museum admission: €8–20

Top end: More than €250

● Upmarket apartment or double in top-end hotel: from €200

● Gourmet multi-course dinner: €180–400

● Cabaret ticket (good seats): €60–150

● Taxi ride: €25

TIP

Currency Euro (€)

Language

German Time

Central European time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)

The Berlin Welcome tourist card covers public transport and discounted entry to sights; check it out online to see if it’s for you and buy it online before you go to save a few euros.

A Few Surprises & Getting Around

A Few Surprises

Relics from bygone times, oddities and hidden gems. If you look closely, you’ll find some surprising stuff in Berlin.

PLAN

Postmodern U-Bahn Stations

Ever heard of Rainer G. Rümmler?

There might be no other architect who has shaped the lives of everyday Berliners to the same extent. His main gig was designing U-Bahn stations – and he did lots of them.

From the 1960s on, almost every new station in West Berlin bore his signature. Some people love his trendy postmodern design, others think it is indefensibly kitsch. Take a ride on the U7 to see some of his wildest stations, with particular highlights being the enchanted forest that is Paulsternstraße, funky Rohrdamm and ‘dynamic’ Konstanzer Straße where it almost seems as if the colours and streaks are saying ‘swwwwwiiiissssshhhhh’.

Lower Your Gaze

Once you know they’re there, you’ll

see them all over town, but nowhere are they more concentrated than in the Scheunenviertel (p000): small brass paving stones in front of house entrances. Called Stolpersteine (stumbling blocks), they are part of a nationwide project by Berlin-born artist Gunter Demnig and are essentially mini memorials honouring the people (usually Jews) who lived in the respective house before being killed by the Nazis. The engravings indicate the person’s name, birth year, year of deportation, the name of the concentration camp where they were taken and the date they perished. Look out for the five at Alexanderplatz (p000) or the six on Kurfürstenstraße (p000).

Where the Wall Was Keep an eye out for the double rows of paving stones and cast-iron

OFFBEAT BERLIN

Drive the most popular car from East Germany on a Trabi Safari around East Berlin’s best known landmarks. (p000)

Stock up on all things that glitter and shine all year round at Christmas specialist Käthe Wohlfahrt (p000)

Sniff out curry secrets at the fun and interactive Currywurst Museum where it’s all about the sausage! (p000)

Take a dip at the Stadtbad Neukölln indoor bathing temple from 1914, with its mosaics, frescos, marble and brass. (p000)

Stolpersteine

Getting There

Most visitors arrive in Berlin by air to Berlin Brandenburg Airport (BER), but depending on your departure point, travel to Berlin by train or bus

From the airport to the city centre

Terminal 5. You’ll need an ABC ticket hof (main train station) and T1/2 in 30 minutes. It also stops at Gesundbrunnen and Ostkreuz.

same lines but stop more frequently. The S9 leaves every 20 minutes and takes about 45 minutes to/from the city centre.

U-Bahn BER is not directly served by the U-Bahn. The nearest station, Rudow, is about a 20-minute ride on bus X7, X71 or 171 from T1/2.

From Rudow, the U7 takes you straight into the city centre. This connection is useful if you’re headed for Neukölln or Kreuzberg.

Getting Around

From the beloved yellow metros to the highly efficient short-distance and regional trains, and the panoramic double-decker buses, Berlin’s public transit system is a well-choreographed symphony of movement. But wait, there’s more! The city takes its accessibility up a notch with e-scooters, bike rentals, and car-sharing options, all perfectly complemented by green and beautiful walking areas.

U-Bahn

The U-Bahn is the quickest way of getting around. Lines (referred to as U1, U2 etc) operate from 4am until about 12.30am and throughout the night on Friday, Saturday and public holidays (all lines except the U4). From Sunday to Thursday, night buses take over in the interim.

Regular Deutsche

By taxi

There are taxi ranks outside T1. Budget about €50 to €60 and takes an hour to central Berlin.

Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (ZOB)

The central bus station is served by the U-Bahn line U2 (Kaiserdamm) and S-Bahn 41/42 (Messe Süd/ICC). From here, taxis cost €15 to City West, €28 to Alexanderplatz. The nearest S-Bahn station is Messe Nord/ICC, about 400m southeast of ZOB. It is served by the Ringbahn (circle line) S41/S42 and handy for such districts as Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain and Neukölln. All journeys require an AB ticket (€3).

Berlin Hauptbahnhof

The main train station is in the city centre near the government district; it’s served by S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram, bus and taxi.

S-Bahn

S-Bahn trains (S1, S2 etc) don’t run as frequently as the U-Bahn, but they make fewer stops and are useful for covering longer distances. Trains operate from 4am to 12.30am and all night on Friday, Saturday and public holidays.

Bus

Buses are slow but useful for sightseeing on the cheap (especially routes 100, 200 and 300). They run

frequently between 4.30am and 12.30am. Night buses (N1, N5 etc) take over after 12.30am. MetroBuses, designated M19, M41 etc, operate 24/7.

Tram

Trams (Strassenbahn) operate almost exclusively in the eastern

ESSENTIAL APP

Download the BVG app (also in English) to purchase tickets and plan journeys. 58 59

I don’t want to miss the must-sees, but I don’t want my trip to be predictable.

A new feature showcasing the latest hidden gems, rising trends and oddities for those who have a taste for the unusual.

Using public transport for the first time is intimidating. I’m worried I’ll do it wrong.

Clear instructions for the best ways to get around, plus tips on the best value, the most scenic rides, and saving time.

Konstanzer Straße station

Neighbourhoods

Research showed that organising by neighbourhood helps you build a mental map, as well as allowing more casual exploration and discovery on foot.

See page 122 for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting There & Around

Y The M1 links Museumsinsel and Prenzlauer Berg via the Scheunenviertel, Kastanienallee and Schönhauser Allee. The M13 heads to Friedrichshain.

b Schönhauser Allee is the most useful station on the S41 and S42 Ringbahn (Circle Line).

Splendidly well-groomed Prenzlauer Berg is one of Berlin’s most charismatic residential neighbourhoods. Its picturesque cobblestone streets are perfect for wandering, while its diverse variety of ice cream shops, healthy cafes and international restaurants makes it a great place for foodies. This part of Berlin also hides some of the most exciting experiences once you scratch the surface, with Cold War-era sites, a brewery-turned-cultural centre and the famous Mauerpark flea market and bearpit karaoke. But it wasn’t always so. This was once a neglected backwater of East Berlin, with a stretch of the wall and a death strip cutting it off from the West. It went from rags to riches after reunification and is now one of the city’s most desirable neighbourhoods.

Getting around U-Bahn

The U2 runs through the centre of the neighbourhood. Your main stations will be Schönhauser Allee, Eberswalder Strasse and Senefelderplatz. You can also take the U8 to Bernauer Strasse for Mauerpark and the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer.

Tram

The M1 links Museumsinsel with Prenzlauer Berg via Kastanienallee and Schönhauser Allee, while the M10 will take you from Hauptbahnhof to Danziger Strasse.

S-Bahn

Ringbahn lines S41 and S42 stop in numerous parts of the neighbourhood, including Schönhauser Allee.

THE BEST…

HISTORIC SIGHT Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (p000)

BEER GARDEN Prater (p000)

FLEA MARKET Flohmarkt im Mauerpark (p000)

BAR FOR LATE NIGHTS Nemo (p000)

SOVIET-ERA ARCHITECTURE Zeiss Grossplanetarium (p000)

Walking Tours

I want to enjoy exploring cool neighbourhoods on foot.

Walking tours in every chapter provide an introduction to the neighbourhood, focusing as much on the vibe as wellknown sights, and including great places to eat.

Previous map

MelvilleSt

WHastingsStWCordovaSt

WPenderSt

ThurlowSt

WGeorgiaSt

RobsonSt

AlberniSt

Burrard

CanadaPl

BurrardSt

HornbySt

HoweSt

DOWNTOWN

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Vancouver City Centre

Granville Waterfront

Robson Sq L brary Sq

GranvilleMall

SeymourSt

YALETOWN

DunsmuirSt

WPenderSt

Waterfront Station

Vancouver Harbour

WHastingsSt

Waterfront Rd

WCordovaSt

HamiltonSt

Waterfront Stadium–

GASTOWN

BeattyStCambieSt

Listings

I want to sample the best local food. Research shows that food is a primary motivator for short breaks. So our neighbourhood listings uncover the best restaurants, bars, shops, markets and street vendors.

Best place for...

€

See page 110 for map of locations

5 Kauf Dich

Glücklich €

Eating

Cheap Noodles & Pho Soups

1 Si An €

Wasserturm Cafe Scene k

Mere steps from Kollwitzplatz, a lively cafe and restaurant scene has sprung up in a sunny spot below Berlin’s oldest water tower (1877), a round red-brick landmark that is now honeycombed with pie-sliced flats. Now looking prim and pretty, its engine room (since demolished) served as one of Germany’s first improvised concentration camps in 1933.

Sights

Kulturbrauerei CULTURAL CENTRE

1 MAP P164, D5

The fanciful red-and-yellow brick buildings of this 19th-century brewery have been upcycled into a cultural powerhouse with a small village worth of venues, from concert and theatre halls to nightclubs, dance studios, a multiplex cinema and a free GDR-history museum. The main entrances are on Knaackstrasse and Sredzkistrasse. (www.kulturbrauerei.de)

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei MUSEUM

2 1 MAP P164, E4

To better comprehend what everyday life and work in East Germany was like, spin by this engagingly curated museum in the Kulturbrauerei. Using original documents, historical footage and

rescued relics (including a camper-style Trabi car), it illustrates the stark disconnect between the lofty aspirations of the socialist state and the sobering realities of material shortages, surveillance and persecution. The free audioguide is excellent. (www.hdg.de)

Jüdischer Friedhof

Schönhauser Allee CEMETERY

3 1 MAP P164, D7

Berlin’s second Jewish cemetery opened in 1827 and hosts some 25,000 dearly departed, including the artist Max Liebermann and the composer Giacomo Meyerbeer. It’s a pretty place with dappled light filtering through big old chestnuts and linden trees, and a sense of melancholy emanating from ivy-draped graves and toppled tombstones. The nicest and oldest have been moved to the Lapidarium by the main entrance. (www.jg-berlin.org)

Kollwitzplatz SQUARE

4 1 MAP P164, E6

OK, so it’s triangular, but Kollwitzplatz is still the prettiest square in Prenzlauer Berg. The leafy park in its centre is tot heaven, with three playgrounds plus a bronze sculpture of the artist Käthe Kollwitz, who used to live nearby. Cafes and restaurants invite lingering, but for the full-on local vibe, swing by the farmers markets.

Eating

Umami VIETNAMESE €

5 MAP P164, F7

A mellow 1950s lounge vibe and an inspired menu of Indochine home cooking divided into ‘regular’ and ‘vegetarian’ choices are the main draws at this always-busy restaurant with an expansive sidewalk terrace. Leave room for its cupcake riff (called ‘popcake’). The weekday lunch specials come with herb soup or a salad. (www. facebook.com/umamirestaurantpberg)

Alain Snack GERMAN €

5 MAP P164, E1

With its rainbow-hued facade touting organic sausages, Alain Snack looks a bit like your average

hipster quick-feed stop. In reality, it’s a GDR-era institution famous for still serving Ketwurst the East German equivalent of a hot dog: a ketchup-slathered sausage stuffed into a hollowed-out tubular bun. Try ’em while they last.

Taqueria El Oso TACOS € 5 MAP P164, D8

There was forever a big blank spot on the Berlin food map when it came to authentic tacos. Fortunately, places like Taqueria El Oso are finally serving the real thing built from fresh corn tortillas, fillings like juicy al pastor (spit-grilled pork) and homemade salsas. It’s at the back of Markthalle Pfefferberg, a pint-sized food hall in a former brewery complex. (www. markthalle-pfefferberg.com)

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei Prenzlauer Berg Eating

Fresh and healthy dishes change daily and are based on traditional recipes from the ancient monasteries of Vietnam.

2 Umami €

A mellow 1950s lounge vibe and an inspired menu of Indochine home cooking divided into ‘regular’ and ‘vegetarian’ choices.

3 Van Hoa €

Satisfying bowls of beef or chicken piled high with fresh veg and herbs, with winter pho soups going a long way towards staving off the chills.

Breakfast & Brunch Spots

4 Anna Blume €

You’ll find strong java at this corner cafe where breakfast is served any time. The tiered tray for two is highly recommended.

This retro-styled cafe is famous for its classic breakfasts (weekends only) and huge selection of sweet and savoury fresh waffles.

Vegetarian & Vegan

6 Chay Long € €

Meat-free Vietnamese cooking. Star of the menu is the slivered, sesame-dusted ‘duck’ with coconut curry.

7 Lucky Leek € € €

One of the best vegan kitchens in town known for boldly combining ingredients in unexpected ways.

8 Lia’s Kitchen €

This tiny gem dishes up vegan burgers and hefty salads that will leave even the hungriest customer satisfied.

Hearty & German to Splurge on

9 Pfefferbräu € €

bakery is beloved by locals. Come early before the cheesecake sells out.

19 Cafe Chagall

15 Eispatisserie

Hokey Pokey €

10 Zum Schusterjungen € €

Old-school gastropub where big platters of goulash, roast pork and Sauerbraten feed both tummy and soul.

Street Snacks

11 Habba Habba €

This tiny snack bar makes yummy wraps with a twist, like the one stuffed with tangy pomegranate-marinated chicken and nutty freekeh (green wheat).

12 Chutnify € €

This vibrant haunt offers skillfully spiced South Indian street food, with specialities like the crispy dosas (fermented rice-lentil crêpes).

Coffee & Sweets

13 Bonanza Coffee

Heroes €

Sit in the woodsy beer hall or the leafy beer garden to guzzle Prenz’l pils paired with a hearty snack or full-on meaty main.

Have a mean cuppa java from beans freshly roasted right in this tiny industrial-flavoured cafe.

14 Five Elephant € € €

This specialty coffee roastery and artisanal

Brave the lines to get a fix of these creamy orbs of goodness created by a master patissier with a knack for adventurous flavour combos.

Proof that the boho spirit isn’t dead in Prenzlauer Berg, Chagall gets flooded with a congenial mix of locals, expats and visitors.

20 Castle

This comfortable lair has just the right amount of contemporary cool without hitting the hipster needle.

21 Weinerei Forum

Drinking

Cocktails & Craft Beers

16 Bryk Bar

Try one of the signature smoky gin and tonics made with in-house BRYK Gin at this darkly lit cocktail lab.

17 Zum Starken

August

Part circus, part burlesque bar, this vibrant venue dressed in Victorian-era exuberance is a fun and friendly pub.

Bars & Cosy Pubs

18 August Fengler

A flirty vibe, wallet-friendly prices and pretension-free crowd make this old-school but all-ages institution perfect for a good night out.

This living room-style cafe turns into a wine bar after 8pm.‘Rent’ a wine glass for €2, then taste as much vino as you like and in the end decide what you want to pay.

designers and established imports.

24 Zweimalschön

Forage for covetable local and international labels (for men and women), bags, household stuff and jewellery at this vintage shop.

25 Ta(u)sche

Browse over 200 styles of the iconic messenger-style bags and backpacks (or design your own).

Retro Homewares

26 VEB Orange

Viva vintage! With its selection of beautiful things from the ‘60s and ‘70s (especially from East Germany), this place is a tangible reminder of how colourful, campy and fun home decor used to be.

Shopping

Fashion & Vintage

22 DearGoods

Shop with a clear conscience for threads and accessories made from eco-friendly organic materials that will have you looking – and feeling – great.

23 Flagshipstore

This compact boutique is great for sourcing sustainable and fairtrade fashion from both up-and-coming Berlin

Books & Toys

27 Saint Georges

English Bookshop

Laid-back and low-key, this is a sterling spot to track down new and used English-language fiction and nonfiction.

28 Ratzekatz

Packed with quality playthings, this a fine place to source toys for all age groups – from babies to teens.

Top Experience

I don’t want to miss the must-sees, but I don’t want my trip to be predictable.

Extended features on the Top Experiences give fresh takes on must-visit sights, plus practical advice on getting the most from your time there.

o Top Tips

TOP EXPERIENCE

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer

For an insightful primer on the Berlin Wall, visit this 1.4km-long outdoor Berlin Wall Memorial along once-divided Bernauer Strasse. It explains the physical layout of the barrier and the death strip, how the border fortifications were enlarged and perfected over time, and what impact they had on the daily lives of people on both sides. Start your visit in the visitors centre across from Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station and work your way east towards Bernauer Strasse U-Bahn station.

National Monument to German Division

National Monument to German Division

Near Ackerstrasse, the central memorial to German division consists of a 70m section of original Wall bounded by two rusted steel flanks. Through gaps in the inner Wall, you can glimpse a reconstructed death strip complete with a guard tower, a security patrol path and the lamps that bathed it in fierce light at night.

Dokumentationszentrum

Across the street from the national monument, the documentation centre provides a concise and engaging overview of the Wall and answers such questions as to why it was built and what led to its collapse. It also uses artefacts, documents and videos to show how it affected daily life on both sides.

Top Experience A

Trace History at the Gedenkstätte

Berliner Mauer 1 MAP P96 C2 Berlin Wall Memorial

www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de

people on both sides. The exhibit follows Bernauer Strasse to Prenzlauer Berg, which was once divided by the Wall.

Window of Remembrance

Between Gartenstrasse and Ackerstrasse, a wall of photographic portraits gives identity to would-be escapees who lost their lives at the Berlin Wall, one of them only six years young.

Kapelle der Versöhnung

The modern Chapel of Reconciliation stands on the spot of an 1894 brick church detonated in 1985 to make room for a widening of the border strip. A 15-minute remembrance service for Wall victims is held at noon Tuesday to Friday.

Nordbahnhof Ghost Station

The Wall also divided the city’s transport system. Three lines that originated in West Berlin had to travel along tracks that happened to run beneath East Berlin before returning to stations back on the western side. Trains slowed down but did not stop at these so-called ‘ghost stations’. S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof has an exhibit on the subject.

• Start your visit in the visitors centre across from Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station and work your way east.

• Pick up a free map and watch the introductory film at the visitors centre.

• For a self-guided audio tour, go to www. berliner-mauer.mobi.

• If you have limited time, spend it in the first section between Gartenstrasse and Ackerstrasse.

5 Take a Break

• The Castle (www. thecastleberlin.de) is a fine place for post-sightseeing relaxation in the beer garden over a craft brew.

• Swing by Cafe Hermann Eicke (www.hermanneicke.de) for a quality, energyrestoring cuppa halfway through your memorial tour.

PLANNING TIP

You could easily spend a couple of hours exploring the memorial, but if you’re short on time, stick to the first section between Gartenstrasse and Ackerstrasse.

Near Ackerstrasse, the central memorial to German division consists of a 70m section of original Wall bounded by two rusted steel flanks. Through gaps in the inner Wall, you can glimpse a reconstructed death strip complete with guard tower, security patrol path and the lamps that bathed it in fierce light at night.

Dokumentationszentrum

Across the street from the national monument, the documentation centre provides a concise and engaging overview of the Wall and answers such questions as to why it was built and what led to its collapse. You’ll also see artefacts, documents and videos to show how it affected daily life on both sides. Climb the steps of the viewing tower for sweeping views of the memorial.

Window of Remembrance

Scan for practical information and selfguided audio tours.

Between Gartenstrasse and Ackerstrasse, you’ll find a wall of photographic portraits, an emotional spot giving identity to would-be escapees who lost their lives at the Berlin Wall, one of them only six years young.

Kapelle der Versöhnung

The modern Chapel of Reconciliation stands on the spot of an 1894 brick church detonated in 1985 to make room for a widening of the border strip. A 15-minute remembrance service for Wall victims is held at noon Tuesday to Friday.

Nordbahnhof Ghost Station

The Wall also divided the city’s transport system. Three lines that originated in West Berlin had to travel along tracks that ran beneath East Berlin before returning to stations back on the western side. Trains slowed down but did not stop at these so-called ‘ghost stations’. S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof has an exhibit on the subject and is a good place to start exploring the memorial.

QUICK BREAK

Grab a coffee and restore your energy with a sweet or savoury tartlet at W-Der Imbiss (p000) on Bernauer Strasse.

Toolkit

I want to tailor my trip to my unique interests. Toolkit gives travellers the kinds of specific tips you only get from first-hand experience. As well as basics like Accommodation and Money, topics like Family Travel and LGBTIQ+ travel open the city up to all travellers.

Family Travel

Travelling to Berlin with kids can be child’s play, especially if you keep a light schedule and involve them in day-to-day planning. There’s plenty to do to keep youngsters occupied, from zoos to kid-oriented museums.

Is Berlin good for kids?

German parenting, compared to most other non-European standards, is considered to be laissez-faire. Children are given freedom to explore their individuality and express themselves in public, especially outdoors – although free rein stops at misbehaviour. Particularly in Berlin, a proudly progressive and liberally minded city, children are allowed everywhere, keeping businesses conscious of family’s needs.

PLAYGROUNDS PARADISE

Accommodation

Berlin offers the gamut of places to unpack your suitcase and rates are mercifully low by Western capital standards.

Where to stay if you love…

Bar-hopping, street art and clubbing

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN

Best Midrange Orania (www.orania. berlin) Culturally minded Kreuzberg hotel with superb restaurants and live concerts. Radisson Collection, Hotel Berlin (www. radissonhotels.com)

Swish and super-central contender with urban-cosy atrium bar below

Boutique Hotels Berlin (www.boutiquehotels-ber-

Lonely Planet’s online booking service with insider lowdown on the best places to stay.

• Visit Berlin (www. visitberlin.de) Official Berlin tourist office; books rooms at partner hotels with a best-price guarantee.

conscious,

self-caterers.

(www. michelbergerhotel.com) Zeitgeist-capturing Friedrichshain crash pad with industrial DIY aesthetics and popular restaurant. 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin (www.25hours-hotels. com) Inner-city playground with easy access to top shopping and rooms overlooking Zoo Berlin. Almodóvar Hotel (www. almodovarhotel.de) Solid eco-cred pairs with modcons and rooftop sauna in Friedrichshain.

Eating Out

Best Top End Hotel Telegraphenamt (https://telegraphenamt. com) Vibrant lifestyle hotel and design jewel in neobaroque former main telegraph office. Hotel de Rome (www. roccofortehotels.com) Posh player in a former bank building with rooftop bar and bank-vault spa. S/O Berlin Das Stue (www.das-stue.com) Charismatic refuge from the urban bustle with understated grandeur and the Tiergarten park as a front yard.

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Arriving

There are about 1,850 public playgrounds in Berlin, so you’re never too far from a play space for kids to run around and let off steam between sights. Scan the QR code to find one nearby:

Many cafes and restaurants offer a limited Kindermenü (children’s menu) or Kinderteller (children’s dishes) to meet small appetite requirements. If they don’t, most places will be happy to serve half-size portions or prepare a simple meal. Popular dishes include schnitzel, Pommes mit Ketchup or Mayonnaise (fries with ketchup or mayo), Nudeln mit Tomatensosse (noodles with tomato sauce) and Fischstäbchen (fish sticks).

Public transport

Children under six travel free and those between six and 14 pay the reduced ermässigt fare.

Admission fees

Travel with Children

Some of the city’s history sites and exhibits are quite disturbing. Check a location’s website first to assess if it’s appropriate.

Many museums, monuments and attractions are free to anyone under age 18, but the cut-off might also be age 12 or 14. Free museums include the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (p000) Humboldt Forum (p000) and Jüdisches Museum Berlin (p000)

Kreuzberg (p000) Gritty-cool clubs and raucous bars around Kotti and Oranienstrasse. Cheap-ish accommodation, but noisy, and a U-Bahn ride to the centre.

Architecture and art

OU R P ICK

We love to stay in… Friedrichshain. This is where you’ll find the city’s most rambunctious nightlife scene. It’s a central district without being too touristy or expensive, with plenty of hostels and midrange indie hotels on quiet neighbourhood streets. Sure it’s an U-Bahn ride to the key sights, but you’ll be grateful for the short stumble home after a night out.

Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten (p000) Berlin’s only high-rise quarter has impressive architecture and top art museums. Most hotels are upscale international chains with prices to match.

Hostel dorm bed from €20

Boutique midrange hotel from €100

Central hotel from €150

High-end shopping and dining

CityWest & Charlottenburg (p000) Ku’damm and around are home to major brands and indie boutiques. High quality dining, especially around Savignyplatz. The best range of good-value lodging.

Museums, and history

Historic Mitte (p000)

Steps away from the Reichstag and Brandenburger Tor and close to major museums and concert venues. Touristy and quiet at night.

Film, arts and culture

Neukölln (p000) Home to the city’s largest LGBTIQ+ community and the city’s premier art-gallery destination. What’s not to love?