MAYOR OF CANON DRIVE

It’s in the DNA

“There was nothing better than making money as a kid for me!”

To the outside world Beverly Hills is a city that symbolizes wealth and prosperity. Home buyers will sacrifice home size and surrounding grounds just to be in the right zip code, especially 90210. It means a lot to them. But, to the natives of Beverly Hills this gem of a city means something else. It means community, a common bond of living and growing up in what still feels like a close-knit village. The stores, streets and businesses change but the personal connection does not.

I grew up in Beverly Hills during the 60’s and 70’s. My friends and I used to ride our bikes after school to hang out at Gunther’s Drug store on Canon and little Santa Monica. Behind the counter serving up burgers and fries was Roger, a fairly flamboyant attendant who regularly chided us on being spoiled brats and not tipping enough. There was Toy Mart, Rudnicks, Phil’s Poultry, Pixie Town, Harry Harris Shoes and many others now a part of our collective memories.

The bistros and high end stores of today’s Beverly Hills have replaced those long forgotten icons but one restaurant still thrives on that community feeling,...Porta Via on Canon Drive.

Porta Via is the brainchild of Peter Garland, a Beverly Hills native who like me, is a Beverly High graduate. Peter’s mother had a clothing store called MG across from the famous Mr. Guy’s in Beverly Hills for many years. It was there Peter told me he first encountered the value of attention to details, customer service and being present, all parts of his practice today as a top restaurateur. “I observed my mother and how she paid attention to everything and it had a great effect on me.”

Peter has always had a love for food and hospitality. Another early influence was the Crown Room at the Hotel Del Coronado. “I loved getting bananas and cream at the Del. The china, the sterling and the sounds of people enjoying themselves all made a big impression on me.”

“While at the PR firm I got to work with hospitality clients and I was drawn to them.”

He started working very early on in his teens. His mother knew the manager at Gelson’s in Century City who gave him a job as a boxboy. “There was nothing better than making money as a kid for me!”

He worked at Hunter’s Books and Burger Hills on Beverly Drive and then during college he worked at PR firms Rogers and Cowan and Baker, Winokur, Ryder. “At the agencies I worked with hospitality clients and I was drawn to them.”

In 1994, Peter sensed a need for a new great place to dine and get together in Beverly Hills. Inspired by Wolfgang Puck and Michel Richard he created Porta Via with the goal to “serve beautiful food that tastes great!” As he explained to me “good food is just easier to work with.”

I asked Peter if he cooked himself and as he explained to me while he doesn’t, he knew his success depended on working with the best young chefs around. He started working with Chef Sandy Gendel (owner of “Pace”). Other young people were excited by his venture and they wanted to be a part of it, like J.P. Amato who is now in charge of rebranded Musso & Franks. He knew consistency was all important to make Porta Via a success so he kept the menu and staff together. For the first six years he operated out of a 900 square foot space. The restaurant on Canon Drive soon became destination dining. Clientele grew. Actors, producers, directors, sports stars and everyday people interacted together to create a “must see” happening bistro.

The restaurant expanded to 1500 square feet, then another 1500 square feet to the north. Soon after stars like Jessica Alba, John Lithgow, Magic Johnson, Derek Jeter and Mel Brooks frequently showed up. “Mel sits outside so he can wave at the tour buses that pass by!”

“I loved getting bananas and cream at the Del. The china, the sterling and the sounds of people enjoying themselves all made a big impression on me.”

As one BH native to another I asked Peter if he thought the physical changes to our city had changed it’s character, it’s improbable description as the richest small town in America, an adult Disneyland of top clothing stores, high end Bistros and a plethora of medical practices geared to keep it’s patronage youthful. “No, he mused,”It’s still the same as it was when we were kids. Everyone knows everyone else. We’re a close knit community.”

After an hour or so Peter asked me if I’d like some lunch. “Of course, I’m at Porta Via!” I quipped. Peter ordered Sea Bass for us both then we returned to the interview.

“The restaurant biz is like a Broadway Show. It takes a lot of preparation.” I asked him to walk me through a typical day for him as the “Producer” . “First thing in the morning I take my kid to school, after that I head to Porta Via. I touch base with the chef and the servers to see what needs to be done. I used to be anxious about all that but not now.” After his morning meet in Beverly Hills Peter heads to his latest endeavor, Porta Via in the new Palisades Village complex which opened on September 22nd. It’s the first time he’s built a restaurant from the ground up, hiring the architect and designer along with all the subcontractors. “I worked with architect Greg Ginter out of Santa Monica and a great designer who is a newcomer to Los Angeles, Sophie Goineau from Montreal. We aimed for an evolved Porta Via look that has a more coastal vibe”. I stopped by on opening day to wish Peter good luck. I noticed Larry David dining outside with his daughter and didn’t see an available seat in the house.

The restaurant and the Caruso complex were bustling . It looked like everything Peter hoped for had come to pass. He was on the floor talking with staff and customers. Off to a good start!