Travel Photographer of the Year Making destinations more sustainable

21

From lodges wi cu ing-edge ecotechnology to tours designed to protect wildlife and empower communities, these planet-friendly escapes will make you feel better than ever about getting away PLACES TO STAY

DOMINICA SECRET BAY In the wake of 2017’s Hurricane Maria, Secret Bay is one of Dominica’s comeback stories. The intimate eco-luxury retreat, on a cliff above the sea, partially reopened in late 2018 with six villas  ,"  ,#5 5#**,#11 .  4'*'-,  ," ̭ ,# Ƥ "',',% 0#12  30  ,2 1&-5!  1',% ',"'%#,-31 &#0 1 %0-5, on-site. Meticulous care was taken to develop the 1'2# 5'2&-32 &#  47 +  !&',#07Ơ 5'2& 4#2'4#0 %0  11 planted to fortify the cliff for decades to come.

Intimacy and mindfulness are at the forefront here. Each decked-out villa has a full kitchen, .0'4  2# .*3,%# .--* Ơ "#!) Ơ ," .0'4  !7 .0-4'"#" by Mother Nature. Sure, there are plenty of  !2'4'2'#1 ƥ #4#072&',% $0-+ 7-%  ," 1# Ƥ !  4# #6.*-0',% 2- .0'4  2#  02 *#11-,1 5'2&  *-!  *

 02'12ƥ 32 2&# 0#  * 20#  2 &#0# '1 #',% *3**#"  5  7 $0-+ Ư"-',% ư ', $ 4-30 -$ 1'+.*7 Ư #',% ưƟ That said, there are some not-to-be-missed experiences. Guests can venture to Prince Rupert  7 5'2&  *-!  *̭ 1&#0 2- *#  0, &-5 2- &3,2 *'-, ̭ 1& Ơ , ',4  1'4# ƺ ," "#*'!'-31 ƻ 1.#!'#1 2&  2 2&0#  2#,1 *-!  * '-"'4#01'27Ɵ $2#0 "'4',% ', 2- .0  !2'1# 2&0-5',% 1.#  01  2 2&#  7 ư1 1  ,"7 ̮ --0Ơ '2 ư1 2'+# 2-  '+ $-0 2&# #  32'$3**7 120'.#" *'-, ̭ 1& 2&#+1#*4#1 Ɵ &  2#4#0 '1 !  3%&2 !-+#1  !) 2- shore for a beachside barbecue. ON YOUR DOORSTEP There are 531 hectares of protected wetlands, coral reefs and tropical forests to explore at Cabrits National Park, set around a peninsula just 15 minutes’ drive north. Find local produce, spices, and more at the Portsmouth Saturday Market. Three-night stay for two £2,285; secretbay.dm

THAILAND YARD HOSTEL  0"  -12#* ',  ,%)-) '1 ̮ 7',% 2&# ̮ % for a new model of environmentally $0'#,"*7 '% Ƥ !'27 *'4',% -,  1+  ** 3"%#2 Ɵ  #!7!*',% '1 (312 -,# 1-!' * ','2' 2'4#  2 2&# &-12#* Ơ  1 #4#, 2&# 3'*"',%1  0# 0#!7!*#" ƥ 2&# 0--+1 5#0# 1&'..',% !-,2  ',#01 #$-0# #',% ',13* 2#" 5'2& recycled paper to keep out the heat.  #2 ',  , #,!*-1#" %  0"#, Ơ  0" 13..-021 #,4'0-,+#,2  *'1+ ƥ %3#121  0# .0-4'"#" 5'2& 5  2#0 -22*#1 2- 0# ̭ ** 5'2& .30' ̭ #" 5  2#0 $0-+  1&  0#" 5  2#0 12  2'-, Ơ *-5 Ƥ #,#0%7 *'%&2',% '1 20'%%#0#" by motion sensors and timers, and the 0#  )$ 12 7-%&302  ," (  + '1 &  ," Ƥ+  "# -,1'2# Ɵ  --+ 0  2#1 &#*. $3," %--" causes, such as Karen community forest conservation projects. But this still feels like a proper Thai &-12#* Ơ "-5, 2- 2&# $0## 5' ̭  ," 7-%  classes and the library of well-thumbed 20  4#* ,-4#*1  ," %3'"# --)1 Ɵ  &# ,  +# 0'$$1 -, 2&#  &  ' +#  ,',% -$ Ư7  0" ư ƺ0#* 2'4# ƻƠ  ," 12  7',% &#0# $##*1 *')# 4'1'2',%  , #!!#,20'! $ +'*7 +#+ #0 5&- '1 &  ..'*7 "-',% 2&#'0 -5, 2&',% Ɵ , 2&'1 urban oasis, you’ll hardly notice that the #"%7 120##21 -$  0'  0# (312 -321'"# Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP BTS Skytrain provides a low-carbon way 2- #6.*-0# 2&# ,#5#0 .  021 -$  ,%)-)  ," 2&# *#%#,"  07  &  23!&  )  ##)#," Market. To reach the historic old quarter -$  2  ,  )-1', Ơ 7-3 ư** &  4# 2- ̭ ,'1& 7-30 journey on foot or by taxi. Dorms from £14; theyardhostel.com

NETHERLANDS CONSCIOUS HOTEL WESTERPARK This Dutch boutique hotel group is all about sustainability, and the newest of its Amsterdam properties also has bragging rights as the Netherlands’ ̭ 012 5'," Ƥ.-5#0#" &-2#* Ɵ ,# 1'"# overlooks the buzzy Westergas arts complex, the other a tranquil green 1.  !# Ơ ," '2 ư1  2#, Ƥ+',32# !7!*# $0-+ -0"  ,  ," 2&# !'27 ư1 &'12-0'! !#,20# Ɵ Rooms are spacious, stylish and streamlined, with comfortable beds and large windows, and all materials  0# !0  "*# Ƥ 2- Ƥ !0  "*# ƺ+  "# 5'2& $3230# 0#31# ', +'," ƻƠ 0#!7!*#" -0 4',2  %# Ɵ  &#  **Ƥ "  7 "',',%  ,2--0  0  ," restaurant serves creative dishes made with organic ingredients – think lamb 1&  ,) Ơ 2* ,2'! 5-*$Ƥ̭ 1& -0 7#**-5 coconut curry, rounded off with vegan  ,  ,  0#  "  ," !  !  - 1-0 #2 Ɵ 4-30 '2 5'2&  , -0%  ,'! !0  $2 ##0Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP  322',% 2&# "#1'%, ̮ '0 ',2- $ '0 20  "# Ơ  3)3&'4 ƺ,3)3&'4 Ɵ ,*ƻƠ '1 (312 34Ƥ+',32# 5  *) 1-32&#  12 Ơ ," '1 2&# place to go for fashion, accessories and shoes for both men and women who .32 .#-.*#  ," ,  230# ̭ 012 Ɵ Doubles from £65; conscioushotels.com

SWEDEN GEUNJA SAMI ECO LODGE  - 4'1'2 2&#  #3,(  +' !-  -"%# '1 to completely disconnect from the +-"#0, 5-0*" Ɵ &'1 *-5 Ƥ'+.  !2 -.#0  2'-, ƺ5&'!& -,*7 5#*!-+#1 %3#121 twelve times a year) invites visitors to learn bushcraft skills, study medicinal herbs, take a dip in the lake, light the 5--" Ƥ 30,',% 1  3, Ơ̭ 1& $-0 "',,#0  ," $-0  %# ', 2&# $-0#121 Ɵ Reindeer herder Mikael Vinka and &'1  +' $ +'*7 5'** 0#%  *# 7-3 5'2& local wisdom, traditions and legends -4#0  -, ̭ 0# ', 2&# %-  2&'# ƺ 27.# -$ 2##.## 31#" 7  +' $-0 +'**#,,'ƻƟ-3 !  , (-',  ',)  -,  20#) $-**-5',% &'1 ancestor’s footprints into the nearby Vindel Mountains, where it’s possible to learn about the conservation work &# "-#1 5'2& 2&#  5#"'1& %-4#0,+#,2 2- .0-2#!2 2&#  0!2'! $-6 Ɵ  &#0#  0# ,- 0-  "1 2-  #3,( Ƣ !!#11 '1 7 -  2 Ɵ-3 1*##. -, 0#',"##0 &'"#1 in the goathie or under a kerosene lamp in a shared timber cabin with six #"1 Ɵ !0  !)*',% ̭ 0# #,130#1 7-3 1304'4# 2&# !0'1.  .* ," ,'%&2 Ơ $0#1& $-0 +-0#  +'Ƥ',1.'0#" "#2-6',% Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP Ammarnäs is near the southern end -$ 2&# $ +#"  3,%1*#"#, ƺ ',% ư1  0  '*ƻƠ 3;4Ƥ+'*# &')',% 0-32# 2&0-3%&  5#"#, ư1 $ 0 ,-02& Ɵ &# .  2& 20  4#01#1 4  0'#" * ,"1!  .#1 -$ 2&#  .* ," +-3,2  ', 5-0*" $0-+ *-5 Ƥ *7',% '0!& $-0#121 2- !0  %%7  *.',# .* 2#  31 Ɵ Three-day tour from £1,115 per person, all-incl; bjorkexperience.com

ECO RETREATS

ARGENTINA AWASI IGUAZÚ 312;< +',32#1 ư "0'4# $0-+  -32&  +#0'! ư1 most recognisable waterfall, this luxurious 1  $ 0'Ƥ 127*# *-"%# -, 2&#  ,)1 -$ 2&#  %3  8û  '4#0 '1 1300-3,"#" 7 2&#  2* ,2'!  ',$-0#12 Ɵ  3'*2 -, 12'*21 $-0 +','+  * #,4'0-,+#,2  * interference and an easy walk from the main lodge, the 14 spacious villas are replete with private living rooms, extensive decks with sun *-3,%#01  ," .*3,%# .--*1 Ơ ',"--0Ƥ -32"--0 showers and traditional textiles and baskets 5-4#, 7 2&# ',"'%#,-31  3  0  ,Ë .#-.*# Ɵ  '2&  .0'4  2# %3'"#  ,"  $-30Ƥ 5&##* "0'4# vehicle included with each villa, guests can 2  '*-0Ƥ+  )# 2&#'0 #6.*-0  2'-, -$ 2&# 0  ',$-0#12 Ơ with over 1,000 species of plants and wildlife, $0-+ 20-.'!  * -0!&'"1 2- !  .3!&', +-,)#71 Ɵ Awasi, which opened in 2018, worked with *-!  * 3  0  ,Ë !-++3,'2'#1  ," 0#,-5,#" biologists to create excursions, including !0712  *Ƥ !*#  0 .--*1 -,*7  !!#11' *# 7 -  2 Ɵ  #0)1 ',!*3"# #,2#0',%  %3  8û  2'-,  * 0) from a secret location, allowing 30 minutes -$ #6.*-0  2'-, #$-0# 2&# !0-5"1  00'4# Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP  '1'2 2&#  7  3  0  ,Ë 1#22*#+#,2 2- +##2 2&# -0'%',  * ',&  '2  ,21  ," %3  0"' ,1 -$ %3  8û  **1  ," (-', ,  230# 5  *)1 2- 123"7 5'*" +#"'!',  * .* ,21 Ɵ-3 !  ,  *1- (-',  02 !* 11#1 2- +  )# 5-0)1 $0-+ !* 7  ," *#  4#1 Ɵ Two-night stay from £1,470 per person, all-incl; awasiguazu.com

UGANDA VOLCANOES SAFARIS  -*!  ,-#1  $ 0'1 -$$#01 *36307 *-"%# Ƥ based accommodation and mountain gorilla and chimpanzee tracking in East  $0'! Ɵ 21 +-"#* .0-2#!21  ," .0#1#04#1 the region’s impressive wildlife and local !3*230#1 Ɵ  3#121 !  , 4'1'2  -*!  ,-#1  $ 0'1 ư 2&0## *-"%#1 ',  %  ,"   ," -,# in Rwanda individually, or book a +3*2'Ƥ *-"%# 1  $ 0' Ơ 5'2& ˅.. $0-+ #  !& --)',% #,# ̭ 2',% 2&#  -*!  ,-#1  $ 0'1  02,#01&'.  0312 Ơ  ,-, Ƥ.0- ̭ 2 2&  2 supports local communities and !-,1#04  2'-,  !2'4'2'#1 Ɵ  2  -3,2  &',%   -"%# ',  %  ," Ơ  2 the base of the Virunga Volcanoes next to  %  &',%   -0'**  2'-,  *  0) Ơ %3#121 !  , 12  7 ', *36307  ,"  1 ƺ12-,# &321 with papyrus roofs) and set out to track golden monkeys or endangered mountain

%-0'** 1 Ɵ  4#0*--)',% 2&# .0'+#4  *  5',"' +.#,#20  *# -0#12 Ơ  -*!  ,-#1  5',"'  -"%# ',  %  ,"  #,4#*-.#1 %3#121 ',  (3,%*# !  ,-.7 5'2&', #  17 0#  !& -$ trekking with gorillas, while at the #!*#!2'!  ," !-,2#+.-0  07  7  + 30   -0%#  -"%# -, 2&# #"%# -$  %  ," ư1 Queen Elizabeth National Park, you can 20  !) !&'+.  ,8##1 ',  13,)#, $-0#12 Ɵ Extend your trip into Rwanda at Virunga  -"%# Ơ  2#, Ƥ  ,"  .0-.#027 -,  0'"%# with views of the Virunga Volcanoes and the Musanze valley, an ideal base for 20  !)',% %-0'** 1 Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP Travellers can visit  ," 13..-02 +  ,7 1-!' * .0-(#!21 ,#  0 #  !& &-2#* Ơ ',!*3"',%  5',"'  0 ,#  0  5',"'  -"%# Ơ  !-++3,'27 0#12  30  ,2 and training institution, and a women’s !-$$## !- Ƥ -. ,#  0  7  + 30   -0%#  -"%# Ɵ Doubles from £245; volcanoessafaris.com

PERU SACRED VALLEY & LARES ADVENTURE The silver lining to the ever-increasing ̮ -5 -$ 2-30'121 2-  !&3  '!!&3 '1 2&  2  *2#0,  2'4# .  2&5  71 2- '2 &  4# ##, "#4'1#" Ɵ  #%',,',% ,#  0 2&# 4'** %# -$  0#1 Ơ 2&# 2&0## Ƥ "  7Ơ 25- Ƥ,'%&2  0#1 20  '* '1  %0#  2 -.2'-, $-0 #1!  .',% 2&# !0-5"1 Ɵ  32 5'2& +-12 .#-.*# !  +.',% #, 0-32# Ơ 2&# #,# ̭ 2 2- *-!  *1 !  , # +','+  * Ɵ  5,#" 7  #034' ,1 5'2&  .  11'-, $-0  ,"#  , !3*230# Ơ  -3,2  ',  -"%#1 -$  #03 ư1  !0#"  **#7  ,"  0#1  "4#,230# 1312  ',1 *-!  * !-++3,'2'#1  ," +','+'1#1 2&# #,4'0-,+#,2  * $--2.0',2 Ɵ  -+ ',',% 4'1'21 2- )#7  !0#"  **#7 ,!  1'2#1  ," 2&# +-12 ',2#0#12',% &')',% 1#!2'-,1 -$ 2&#  0#1  0  '* Ơ 2&# 2-30 !  , # !-+.*#2#" ', ̭ 4# -0 1#4#, "  71 Ɵ , 0-32# Ơ %3#121 12  7 ', *3630'-31 Ơ *-5 Ƥ'+.  !2 *-"%#1 !-,1203!2#" ', !-,13*2  2'-, 5'2& *-!  * !-++3,'2'#1 Ɵ  -!  *1  0# %'4#, 2&# &-1.'2  *'27 20  ',',% ,#!#11  07 2- (-', *-"%# .#01-,,#* 2#  +1  ,"  0#  *1- ',4#12-01 ', 2&# .0-.#02'#1 Ɵ  &# 2-30 ',!*3"#1 #6!*31'4# #6.#0'#,!#1 $0-+  20  "'2'-,  * *3,!& .0#.  0#" 7  $ 0+',% 4'** %# 2&  2 -,!# 0#  .#" ,- #,# ̭ 2 $0-+ 2-30'1+ Ơ 2-  4'1'2 2-  20  "'2'-,  * 5#  4',% !-++3,'27Ɵ  #" 7  &'%&*7 20  ',#"  #034' , %3'"# Ơ 2&# #6.#"'2'-, '1 2-..#" -$$ 5'2&  4'1'2 2-  !&3  '!!&3 -, 2&# ̭ ,  * "  7 #$-0# &#  "',%  !) 2-  38!- Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP  &#!) -32 2&#  #,20- "#  #62'*#1  0  "'!'-,  *#1 "#*  38!- ƺ2#62'*#1!31!- Ɵ -0% ƻƠ  ,-2Ƥ$-0Ƥ.0- ̭ 2 1#2 3. 2- 13..-02  ,"#  , 5#  4#01 Ơ 5&'!&  *1- &  1  1+  ** -, Ƥ 1'2# +31#3+ Ɵ Five-day tour with Mountain Lodges of Peru £1,470 all-incl; mountainlodgesofperu.com PHOTOGRAPHS: PHILIP LEE HARVEY, ALEX FRADKIN

ECO RETREATS

CANADA FOGO ISLAND INN  $$ 2&# ,-02&#  12 !-  12 -$  #5$-3,"* ," Ơ  12  7  2 -%- 1* ," ,, '1  **  -32 '++#01',% 7-301#*$ ', 2&# 5'*" Ɵ  %  2#5  7 2- 2&#  0  "-0  20  '2 ư1 $ +-31 !# #0%  **#7Ơ 2&'1 0#20#  2 '1 -, 2&# * 0%#12 -$  <--Ƥ'1* ,"  0!&'.#* %-  ," '1 3'*2 -, 12'*21 $-0 +','+  * #,4'0-,+#,2  * '+.  !2 Ɵ  !& -$ 2&# >? %3#12 0--+1 &  1 -3,"*#11 4'#51 -$ 2&# 1#   ," 1)7Ɵ -3,"#" 7 #,20#.0#,#30  ," -%- 1* ," *-!  *  '2   - 2-  "4  ,!# 2&# !3*230  *  ," #!-,-+'! 0#1'*'#,!# -$ &#0 &-+#2-5, Ơ 2&# &-2#*ư1 .0- ̭ 21  0# 0#',4#12#" ', 2&# !-++3,'27Ơ 5&'!& '1  !2'4#*7 ',4-*4#" ', &-1.'2  *'27Ɵ  '2& !-++3,'27 &-121  1 %3'"#1 Ơ %3#121 !  , #,(-7  0  ,%# -$ #6!301'-,1 ơ #6.*-0',% 2&# '1* ," ư1 <>C +'*#1 -$ ,!'#,2 .  2&1 Ơ 1  '*',% -$$ 2&#  2* ,2'! !-  12 5'2&  !0  ̭ 1&#0Ơ -0 *#  0,',% 2- +  )# (  +1  ," (#**'#1 $0-+ 5'*" .  020'"%# #00'#1  ," *3# #00'#1 5'2&  , #6.#02 $-0  %#0Ɵ  , 2&# .0-.#027Ơ 7-3 !  , !-17 3. 2- -,# -$ 1'6 5--" Ƥ 30,',% ̭ 0#.* !#1  ," 5-0) 7-30 5  7 2&0-3%& 2&# ',, ư1 #62#,1'4# *' 0  07Ơ 2  )# ',  ̭ *+  2 2&# ', Ƥ &-31# !',#+ Ơ 0#* 6 ', 2&# 0--$2-. 1.  5'2& &-2 23 1  ,"  1  3, Ơ  ," &  4# "#*'!'-31 +#  *1  2 2&# 0#12  30  ,2 5'2& '21 ̮ --0Ƥ 2- Ƥ !#'*',% 4'#51 -$ 2&#  2* ,2'! Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP  &# *-"%# '1  , '"#  *  1# $-0 4'1'2',%  ** $-30 *-!  2'-,1 -$ -%- 1* ,"  021  23"'-1 "#1'%,#" 7  -""  3,"#01 Ơ  ,  2'4# -$  ,"#0 5&- 3'*2 2&# -$$Ƥ %0'" 123"'-1 5'2& !-+.-12 2-'*#21 Ơ 1-* 0Ƥ.-5#0#" #,#0%7Ơ  ," 5--" Ƥ 30,',% 12-4#1 Ɵ Two-night stay for two from £2,295 all-incl; fogoislandinn.ca

INDONESIA BAMBU INDAH -&,  ,"  7,2&'  0"7 ư1 1312  ',  *# +  12#0.'#!#  + 3 ,"  & '1  20  ,/3'* Ơ 4'** %#7 (3,%*# 0#1-02 -, 2&# -321)'021 -$  3" ', 2&# *31& ',2#0'-0 -$  *' Ɵ  2  7 ', -,# -$ 2&# #*#4#, 0#.30.-1#"  ,2'/3#  4  ,#1# 0'"  * &-+#1 Ơ "#!-0  2#" 5'2& 20#  130#1 $-3," -, 2&# -5,#01 ư 20  4#*1 Ơ -0 ', -,# -$ 2&#  5# Ƥ',1.'0',%  + -- 1203!230#1 Ɵ  3#121  0# #,!-30  %#" 2- 0#31# 2-5#*1  ," *',#,1  ," 2&#  **Ƥ,  230  * -0%  ,'!  2&0--+  +#,'2'#1 &#*. 2- )##.  *'ư1 5  2#05  71 !*#  , Ɵ  &#0# ư1  15'++',% .-," $#" 7  120#  + 2&  2 %30%*#1 2&0-3%& 2&# .0-.#027Ơ 25- -, Ƥ 1'2# 0#12  30  ,21 1#04# *-!  * !3'1',# !0  $2#" $0-+ .0-"3!# %0-5, -, 2&# .0-.#027Ơ -0 1-30!#" *-!  **7Ơ  ," +  ,7 -$ 2&# "#*'!'-31 +#  *1  0# 1#04#" -,  ,  , Ƥ *#  $ .* 2#1 Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP -',  2-30 -$ ,#  0 7  + --  2- *#  0,  -32  + -- ư1 .-2#,2' *  1 2&# 1312  ',  *# 2'+ #0 -$ 2&# $3230# Ɵ  &--1# $0-+  -,# Ƥ "  7 ',20- -0 '++#01# 7-301#*$ ', "#1'%, !-301#1 -$ 2&0## 2- #*#4#, "  71 Ɵ Doubles from £85; bambuindah.com

B E L I Z E MACAL RIVER CAMP 0-+ 0'"',%  &-01# 2&0-3%& 2&# (3,%*#  +'" %' ,2 *3# 322#0 ̮ '#1 2- #6.*-0',%  7  03',1 Ơ  12  7  2  &   0##) +#  ,1 ',2'+  2# ',2#0  !2'-,1 5'2&  #*'8# ư1 &'12-07  ," #!-*-%7Ɵ 2 ư1  ,--Ƥ !0# .0'4  2# ,  230# 0#1#04# Ơ -, 2&# 5#12  ,) -$ 2&#  !  *  '4#0 ,#  0 2&# $--2&'**1 -$ 2&#  7   -3,2  ',1 ', 5#12#0,  #*'8# Ɵ 2  220  !21 -4#0 0-- 1.#!'#1 -$ '0"1 Ơ ',!*3"',% 2&# )##*Ƥ '**#" 2-3!  , Ơ  #*'8# ư1 ,  2'-,  * '0" Ɵ  !  *  '4#0  +. '1 -,# -$ +  ,7 *-"%',% -.2'-,1 ',  &   0##) Ơ 5&'!& 5  1 -,# -$  #*'8# ư1 ̭ 012 #!- Ƥ0#1-021 Ơ !0#  2#" #$-0# 2&# 2#0+ 5  1 #4#, !-',#" Ɵ  0  4#**#01 !  , 12  7 ', -,# -$ 2#, !  1'2  1 ƺ!  ',1 ƻ 5'2& 0  '1#" .* 2$-0+1 +  "# $0-+ 1312  ',  *7 &  04#12#" 2'+ #0Ơ #  !& 5'2& '21 -5, 4#0  ,"   ," &  ++-!)1 5'2& 0  ',$-0#12 4'#51 Ɵ -3 ư** # .0-4'"#" 5'2&  0#31  *# 5  2#0 -22*# 2- ̭ ** 5'2& 0#4#01# Ƥ -1+-1'1 Ƥ.30' ̭ #" 5  2#0Ơ  ," Ơ 5'2& ,- #*#!20'!'27Ơ 2&# !  +. #,!-30  %#1  "'%'2  * "#2-6 Ɵ  2 2&# #," -$ 2&# "  7Ơ %3#121 !-,4#0%# 3,"#0  !#,20  * 2&  2!&#" Ƥ0--$ 2- 1  4-30 &-+#+  "# Ơ $ +'*7 Ƥ 127*# +#  *1 5'2& $0#1& .0-"3!#  ," &#0 1 $0-+ 2&# .0-.#027 ư1 -5, -0%  ,'! $ 0+ Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP  '%, 3. $-0  %3'"#" 2-30 -$ 2&# -, Ƥ 1'2#  &   0##)  230  *  '12-07  #,20# 2- *#  0,  -32 2&# .0-.#027 ư1 &'12-07Ơ $-**-5#" 7  5  *) -, 2&#  ',$-0#12  #"'!',#  0  '* 2- *#  0,  -32 '21 +#"'!',  * .* ,21 Ɵ Doubles £50 per person, halfboard; macalrivercamp.com

ECO RETREATS

NEW ZEALAND HAPUKU LODGE & TREE HOUSES Created by a family of food-loving architects just outside Kaikoura, a little coastal town with a big, environmentally conscious heart, Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses was destined to be special. The luxury lodge with its two nature-inspired 13'2#1 !  +# ̭ 012 ', %&&'Ơ 32 2&# ̭ 4# 20## houses built four years later really put Hapuku in a class of its own. They’re 10m above the ground to take in views over the tops of 100-year-old native kanuka trees of the nearby Seaward Kaikoura mountain

0  ,%#  ," 2&#  !' ̭ ! Ɵ The whole place is a model of sustainability – important in Kaikoura, a zero-waste community that banned .* 12'!  %1 ', %&&* ," '1 0#%3* 0*7  02&  &#!)Ƥ !#02' ̭ #" Ɵ ,!*3"#" ', 2&# room rates, gourmet dinners showcase the region’s fresh produce and seafood, ',!*3"',%  ')-30 ư1 $ +-31 !0  7 ̭ 1& Ơ ," venison – in addition to having its own organic vegetable garden and olive trees, Hapuku is a working deer farm.

Low-impact activities include beach and botanical walks, swimming in the solar-heated pool and biking mountain trails, while Mangamaunu surf break and Kaikoura’s marine wonders are just down the road. Best of all, Hapuku plants native 20##1 2- -$$1#2 %3#121 ư 0#230, ̮ '%&21 2- New Zealand from anywhere in the world. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Love sealife? You’ll love Kaikoura ƺ5&  *#5  2!& Ɵ!- Ɵ ,8 ƻƟ-0'Ƥ03, whale-watching business put it on the tourist map in 1987 and it’s still one of the best places in the world to see whales of all kinds and to swim with fur seals and huge pods of dusky dolphins . Doubles from £470 half-board; hapukulodge.com

MOROCCO TOUDA ECO LODGE More like a large family gathering where everyone is warmly welcomed, Touda Eco Lodge is comfortable but modest, as is everything about staying here. The rooms are decorated with local handmade rugs; the hot water is solar heated; and electricity is used sparingly. All the materials, the stone, wood and mud used to build the lodge, are from here. Cars are a rare sight, as villagers walk or ride horses and mules to get around.

In the quiet lounge, coffee-table books celebrate the culture of the nomadic people of the High Atlas, who have lived here in harmony with the landscape for millennia. Meals are lovingly prepared each day by staff from the village and consumed either outside, with dramatic views of the mountains, or inside, with other guests drawn to the *-3,%#  ," ̭ 0#.* !# Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP Take a horse-trek across the mountains to visit nomadic families and share a meal, before joining in with the afternoon siesta in their temporary camp. Communal living here means everything is shared. Doubles from £26; touda.co.uk

USA ROAM BEYOND KALALOCH A micro-community in the middle of nowhere, Roam Beyond’s mobile dwellings give exclusive access to the wilderness of Washington state without disrupting it. With hammocks, communal tables, a covered lounge area and lawn games, the site features fully off-grid, portable cabin-like pods powered by the sun and built with responsibly sourced materials.

Both the Unesco-listed Olympic National Park and Hoh Rain Forest are on your doorstep, as is the coast, meaning near-limitless hiking and far more animals than people – look for Roosevelt elk in the forest. Thousands of old-growth logs on the beach are perfect to perch on and toast the sun as it sets over the water, rippling with humpback whales and sea otters. ON YOUR DOORSTEP An easy three-mile hike north ends at Kalaloch Lodge, where you can refuel with a hot meal and a stiff drink. Restock basic supplies at Queets Trading Post, a small store a ten-minute drive southeast. Two-nights for up to four £405, May to October; roambeyond.travel/kalaloch

MADAGASCAR EDEN LODGE Imagine spotting migrating whales from your sunlounger, or perhaps a nocturnal lemur on your way to dinner. Accessible only by boat from the nearby island of Nosy Be, Eden Lodge, on a remote beach in northwestern Madagascar, is ideal for spotting endemic critters, from 99 species of lemur to parrots and chameleons, and its colourful reefs teem with marine life.

With four-poster beds built from fallen trees and furnished with Malagasy crafts, rooms at the eco-luxe lodge – which claims to &  4# ##, 2&# 5-0*" ư1 ̭ 012 1-* 0Ƥ powered hotel – are high-end safari tents under traditional thatched roofs. A ravenala tree is planted for each guest to offset carbon impact. By using only solar power, buying local, and recycling wastewater, "#,  -"%# #!  +# 2&# ̭ 012 &-2#* ',  "  %  1!  0 !#02' ̭ #" 7 international sustainability organisation Green Globe.

Between hikes, dives, massages, and boat tours, you can enjoy meals  2 2&# 0#12  30  ,2 Ơ +  "# 5'2& ̭ 1& straight from the sea and veg from the organic garden. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Beach activities are complimentary,  ," #6!301'-,1 2- ̭ 1&',% 4'** %#1 -0 waterfalls are affordable and easily arranged. Be sure to spend an hour or so walking around the island’s baobab grove; one of the massive trees is more than 700 years old. Doubles from £155 per person, all-inclusive; edenlodge.net

I T A L Y LEFAY RESORT & SPA

LAGO DI GARDA Lefay Resort & Spa Lago di Garda is a stylish lakeside playground for socialites with a conscience. In eleven hectares of parkland cascading down the hillside towards Lake Garda, it’s a Modernist/Art Deco homage with serious eco-tech backstage. A hidden power plant digests 5--"!&'.1 2- &#  2 2&# ', ̭ ,'27 pool, switching to methane-fed micro-turbines in winter. An absorption cooling system keeps guests as chilled as a freshly mixed Bellini in summer. Elegant rooms are set into the hillside beneath living green roofs, with silent radiant heating and cooling. Meals at the

AUSTRALIA LONGITUDE 131 ° Australia’s most famous rock, Uluru, looks incredible from any angle, but its colour transformation from a luxury tented room at Longitude 131° is mesmerising. The resort’s 16 tented pavilions, furnished with every low-impact amenity 7-3 !-3*" 5  ,2 Ơ  0# "#1'%,#" 2- Ư̮ -  2 ư above the ancient sand dunes southeast of Yulara, Uluru’s tourism hub. Part of the boutique Baillie Lodges group, a collection of ultra-sustainable luxury lodges in unique Australian wilderness destinations, Longitude 131° harnesses much of its power from the sun, has showers instead of baths to preserve water, pumps waste out to Yulara, and grows

lemon-scented restaurant are crafted with local produce, including olive oil pressed on the lakeshore, and spa treatments use local herbs and essences. Scanning systems monitor light levels across the complex to minimise the use of electric light. Anything the resort can’t minimise or avoid is offset by carbon credits; it’s some of the best eco-living money can buy. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Visible from almost every corner of the gorgeously landscaped grounds, the shimmering waters of Lake Garda call out like a beacon. To keep your carbon footprint low, skip the motorboat rides in favour of wild swimming from the beaches at Sirmione, -0 5',"130 ̭ ,%  2  '4   #*  0" Ɵ Doubles from £440; lagodigarda.lefayresorts.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS, DANNY IACOB/SHUTTERSTOCK, JEREMY WOODHOUSE/GETTY IMAGES fresh produce (food waste is used as compost) to further reduce its carbon footprint. The lodge works with the local Aboriginal community, which led to the launch of an artist-in-residence programme in 2019 and gives the chance to talk to artists as they create their works. After an extensive refurbishment, in 2017 Longitude 131° looks better than ever, but with climbing Uluru banned in 2019, the views have arguably never been better. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Rates include sunset viewing and walks around Uluru and Kata Tjuta, plus bespoke experiences such as a tour of the Ernabella Arts Studio, Australia’s oldest continuously running indigenous arts centre. Two-night stay from £1,660 per person, all-incl; longitude131.com.au

ECO RETREATS

C R O A T I A HOTEL LYRA The name Lyra echoes the ‘harp’ that is one of the 88 constellations –an astronomical nod to the dark skies beneath which this hotel slumbers, bordering Croatia’s Unesco-listed Plitvice Lakes National Park. There’s so little light pollution that stars are keenly visible, especially through telescopes in Hotel Lyra’s rooftop rooms and gardens. Nature is a constant companion at Lyra. The hotel sits in a wooded clearing, with Plitvice Lakes’ emerald pools just ten miles away. Hiking the park’s web of trails is encouraged, and there’s a small chance of spotting a European brown bear, lynx or eagle. The hotel runs daily tours to little-explored Una National Park in Western Bosnia, where you can white-water raft. Inside, this four-star design &-2#* &  1   *)  , ̮ 4-30Ɵ  70  opened in 2019 with a mission to gain Green Key status, and to embrace responsible tourism by regenerating the community, which still bears the scars of the Balkan War. A charitable foundation has been established to help locals rebuild, and the hotel employs people from different communities (including Bosnians from across the border) to bring them together and facilitate unity. People from the surrounding villages were also invited to share their recipes, now served in the hotel’s restaurant. Food is sourced locally, handicrafts are sold in the shops, and brandy made from local plums is the traditional welcome drink. As the Croatians 5-3*" 1  7 ơ Đ '4(#*' ƺ!&##01 ƨƻ 2- 2&  2 Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP Karstic limestone created both Plitvice Lake and vast caverns nine miles northeast of the park (well signposted from the D1). Visits are by 45-minute guided tour (minimum two people) through chambers with names such as ‘Hall of Lost Souls’. Wear warm clothes and sensible shoes. Doubles from £80; hotelplitvice.com

LAOS ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CENTRE  #2 2- ),-5 01  1' , #*#.&  ,21 ',  345Ƥ &#!2  0# .0-2#!2#" $-0#12  *-,% 2&# shores of Nam Tien lake. On a one- or two-night stay at this conservation centre you’ll sleep and eat in their midst while learning about their plight from a team of international vets and local guides. Longer, seven-day volunteer stays are more in-depth as you help with current projects and assist in the caretaking of the animals.  00'4',%  2 2&# *#.&  ,2  -,1#04  2'-, Center (ECC) on a small wooden boat gliding through the green weeds that carpet Nam Tien lake is a memorable experience. You drop your belongings in either fan-cooled bungalows with shared bathrooms or the more comfortable rosewood lodge (a stilt house based on the traditional Tai Lue style). The ECC has the largest herd under human care in Laos and a strict noriding policy. Most animals have been rescued from the logging industry or brought for the breeding programme (the ECC hopes to re-create sustainable breeding populations in the wild). You’ll help fund one of the last hopes for Laos’ elephant population. There are just 400 of them in the wild, but with the ECC’s help, the future will be brighter. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Stop by Big Brother Mouse (bigbrother mouse.com), a publisher that produces colourful Lao-language children’s books, many of them local fairytales. Two-days from £165, incl meals and activities; elephantconservation center.com

ETHIOPIA COMMUNITY TREKS  '2& ,',#  ,#1!-  -0*"  #0'2  %# 1'2#1 Ơ dramatic scenery and peerless history, it’s no surprise Ethiopia has been drawing a growing number of tourists after years of being associated with 3,0#12  ," $ +',# Ɵ  '2& 2&# ,  2'-, recording the world’s largest tourism growth in 2018, the need for sustainable tourism has never been greater. -3,"#"  1  ,-, Ƥ.0- ̭ 2  ," ,-5 Ethiopia’s most prominent community tourism company, Tesfa Tours specialises in multi-day guided hikes designed to empower local people to conserve their culture and protect the environment while delivering incredible guest experiences. Since "#4#*-.',% '21 ̭ 012 0-32#1 ',  *' #*

and Tigray, known for ancient rock-hewn churches, Tesfa expanded to include rural villages in Simien National Park and the verdant forests -$  -$  1&  5'2& 1.#!'#1 7-3 5-, ư2 see anywhere else on Earth. Routes and the building of new guesthouses for hikers are planned with local communities to bring sustainable #,# ̭ 21 ƥ 2&'1 '1 20#))',% $-0 %--" Ɵ ON YOUR DOORSTEP $ 7-3 20#) $0-+  -)  1& Ơ "-, ư2 +'11 the chance, after having admired the views from Lik Marefya guesthouse, to descend into the valley to see an unusually laid-out monastery. The community that lives there, although Christian, claim to have converted from Judaism several centuries ago. Minimum three-day community trek from £55 per day, incl meals; tesfatours.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: OLEKSANDR RUPETA/NURPHOTO VIA GETTY IMAGES, PHILIP LEE HARVEY, ANDRÉ SCHUMACHER/LAIF, SENG KIT/

NEPAL DWARIKA’S HOTEL This family-run luxury hotel has become a saviour for Newari architecture, dating back to the Malla "7,  127 ƺ1231ƥ1567ƻƟ , 2&# 1753 1 Ơ Indian-born Dwarika Das Shrestha built his hotel in the redbrick style of the Kathmandu valley’s palaces, incorporating wooden carvings salvaged from Kathmandu and beyond as the city began its march 2-5  0"1 +-"#0,'1  2'-, ', 2&# 17:3 1 Ɵ The 83-room property has become the showpiece of indigenous design. To help preserve the art of Newari carving that makes it so unique, an on-site wood workshop teaches young craftspeople the ancient skill, now particularly valuable as the city continues to rebuild the temples "  +  %#" ', 2&# 231: #  02&/3  )# Ɵ The hotel has also taken measures to reduce its environmental footprint by minimising single-use plastics in its bathrooms, and sources produce for its three restaurants (as well as the charming Kaiser Café in Thamel) from its own organic farms. ON YOUR DOORSTEP Dwarika’s is handy for two top city sights: Shree Pashupatinath Temple with its Hindu funeral ghats ƺ1: +',32#1 ư 5  *) ƻƠ  ,"  -3"&  ,  2& Ơ Nepal’s largest Buddhist stupa ƺ1: +',32#1 ư "0'4# ƻƟ  6'1 *',# 3. ', front of the hotel. Doubles from £205; dwarikas.com

ECO RETREATS

MONGOLIA LIVING WITH NOMADS Living in ger, large circular canvas tents that can be dismantled in less than an hour, makes Mongolian herders mobile in their search for grasslands to feed their animals. Nomadic families have started hosting travellers, which provides additional income and an incentive to keep up traditions. Several local operators include horseback, camel or yak riding in their packages. But be warned: it can leave you saddle-sore. Stone Horse Expeditions & Travel’s Train to Ger trips can be combined with Trans-Siberian railway journeys. You’ll be driven from Ulaanbaatar to join your hosts in Darkhid valley. Staying with the family in their ger, or in one of your own, you’ll share meals that include foods made from the milk of their livestock. Stone Horse Expeditions take protecting the environment seriously, and treat the herder families fairly. ON YOUR DOORSTEP ,  * ,  2  0 7-3 ư** ̭ ," 20  "'2'-,  * handicrafts at fair trade Mary & Martha Mongolia (mmmongolia. com); the Mongolian Quilting Shop, which sells handmade quilts produced by low-income families ƺ"0  %-, ̮ 7/3'*21 Ɵ!-+ ƶ+-,%-*'Ɵ &2+ ƻƢ  ," 2&# ,-, Ƥ.0- ̭ 2  1  %  ,  *2  --* Shop (mongolianwoolcraft.com). Two night ger/one night city guesthouse with Stone Horse Expedition & Travel £230; stonehorsemongolia.com