LOST iN Vienna

Issue No.5

LOST iN

English edition

A secret cafÊ with an impressive vinyl collection, a disco ball pizza oven, a cemetery for the nameless, a restaurant in an old Apotheke and Europe’s finest tap water... Discover Vienna from Schubert to Falco in 38 hours.

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Publisher: 36hrs GmbH, Brunnenstr. 191, 10119 Berlin Managing Directors: Joseph Djenandji, Philipp Majcher Editor-in-Chief: Uwe Hasenfuß (ViSdP) Art Direction & Design: NODE Berlin Oslo Editors: Eva Baumgardinger, Marleen Franke, Marc Poggia, Laura Posdziech, Rhiannan Roe Photographers: Lukas Gansterer

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Fritz Molden

Vienna

Contributors: Krista Bursey, Jörg Henning, Werner Sturmberger Printing: Jung Produktion GmbH, Germany Special thanks to: Art Brandom, Jeremy Dean, Angela Greenman, Nhoah Hoena, Johann Hölzel, Michael Leuffen, Nicole Spilker, Mr. Staab, Ulrich Theilmann ISBN 978-3-00-048381-3 38HOURS in is a publication of 36hrs GmbH, Brunnenstr. 191, 10119 Berlin, Germany, www.38hrs.com Inquiries & Distribution: info@38hrs.com

in 38HOURS

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“In Vienna, nothing has changed in a hundred years, only the emperor no longer comes.”

IMPRINT 38HOURS, Issue No. 5, Vienna

Vienna

Having flourished under the Habsburg Dynasty, Vienna provides for the classical attractions of an Imperial city. Following a decade of stagnation and the fading glory of the fin-de-siecle era, Vienna had to re-invent itself.

Even back toward the end of the 19th century, a movement was brewing. Artists such as Gustav Klimt and Oskar Kokoschka, to name but a few, forged new approaches by breaking out of prevailing conventions. The two artists and their peers became known as the Vienna Secessionists: they laid the foundation of how the city would evolve throughout the next century.

In this fashion, Vienna is as delicate as it’s pastries, as rude as the waiters in the famous Kaffeehäuser and as diverse as the former Empire. It is a city that despite it’s rich history, manages to stay utterly contemporary.

38HOURS is about the value and worth of the experience. It’s about the smell, taste, feel, sound and sight that such experiences conjure up.

We hope this guide will hone your sensitivities and improve your level of engagement with this evolving city. In order to do so, we have drawn from our network of local curators ranging from artists, designers and chefs to guide you through their versions of this classic city.

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Editorial

Testimonial

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Vienna Calling

Erwin Wurm

Art Move 24 Roshi Parker & Wolfram Eckert

Neighbourhood

20 2nd District

The Island 44 3rd & 4th District

Inside Out

Export Champions 38 Carola Schmidt

Traditional Way 52 Erwin Gegenbauer

The Insider

Story

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Singing in the Boys Choir

Espionnage in Vienna

by Werner Sturmberger

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Wiener Melange 58

Hotels 67

Index 64

Out of the Dark Observations

by Jรถrg Henning

Showcase

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Wiener Blutwurst

by Lukas Gansterer

Photo: Lukas Gansterer

Entering the Wortruba Kirche is a lot like entering an art form, Fritz Wortruba, a Viennese sculptor designed the church inspired by the Chartres Cathedral. Through 152 blocks of concrete, this monument embodies the experimental side of Vienna, rough and asymmetrical yet entrenched in tradition. • Wortruba Kirche, Ottillingerplatz 1, 23rd District, georgenberg.at

Food

Kiss the Cook

… says the stitched signet on Mario Bernatovic’s chef jacket. After several years in some of the city’s finest restaurants, the Zadar-born chef opened his own place in 2014. Kussmaul divides neatly into three parts: restaurant, cafépâtisserie, and bar—complete with a beautiful terrace. For the full experience, head to the fine dining section. Here Mario is serving regionally inspired, creative cuisine. Try Shitake-Raviolio or pig’s trotters ragout. With 16 Gault Millau points from the start proves that this is one of the hottest openings in recent months.

Surely a cook worthy of a kiss!

• Kussmaul, 7th District, kussmaul.at

Vienna Calling

Outdoors

Great Escape

Every city has a spot that locals go to for peace and quiet. And for Vienna it is Kahlenberg, a 480 meter high hill in the Vienna Woods. There are perfect panoramic views of the city and wonderful patches of green grass, which make it a romantic choice for summer picnics.

Even Albert Einstein came here for inspiration. Today the whole hill is filled with beautiful hiking trails and bike paths. Reachable by tram direct to the last stop (tram line D to Nussdorf), it’s only a couple minutes away from the city centre, yet feels so far.

• Kahlenberg, 19th District, kahlenberg-wien.at 8

Photos: 1) Thomas Schauer, 2) WienTourismus / Karl Thomas, 3) Peter Kainz/MAK, 4) Palmenhaus

From Pharmacy-Restaurants to Hipster Heurigen

Culture

Comtemporary Kunst 101

Sitting proudly on the northern edge of Stadtpark is the red-brick grandeur of the Museum for Applied Arts. Not only one of the city’s most impressive buildings but also home to world-class collections of design and contemporary art.

Passed the illustrious columned hall, a wealth of design wonders await, ranging from original Biedermeier furniture to the mosaics of Gustav Klimt. There is no better place to see how Viennese heritage interacts with 21st century creativity.

Case in point: the traditional comfort food and futuristic interior design of their Österreicher im MAK restaurant.

• MAK, 1st District, mak.at

Food ∙ Night

Imperial Wining & Dining

The Palmenhaus is a first-rate botanical garden in its own right as well as a lively three-pronged establishment: cafe, brasserie and bar. First opened in 1882, its grand cast-iron arches and Jugendstil architecture is evocative of imperial Austria, making it one of the finer settings in which to while away an evening. The food is perfectly decent, but the Vienna Calling

atmosphere is second to none. Seated cosily beneath exotic plants and palms provides a wonderfully incongruous setting for dark winter nights — until the warmer months arrive and the terrace is suddenly the place to be. Choose a nice bottle of local Donau Riesling and enjoy the music and conversation as it flutters across the palace gardens.

• Palmenhaus, 1st District, palmenhaus.at 9

Night

Arise, Sir Barkeep!

Food

Dancing Pizza

This is no ordinary Italian pizza joint.

A giant sparkling disco ball is the most noticeable thing in the restaurant— maybe not so unusual, until you see that the pizza is going to be cooked inside it! Frequented by many of the cool creative cats of Vienna, it’s a place for a quick lunch or a spicy start to the evening. The name refers to the yacht of the evil Emilio Largo in the James Bond movie “Thunderball”. But it’s also a play on words: The translation means “flying saucer” and this is what the place is famous for.

• Disco Volante, 6th District, disco-volante.at 10

Photos: 1) Philip Martin Rusch, 2) Lukas Schaller, 3) Mark Glassner, 4) Ruth Ehrmann

Working at the legendary Loos Bar for 15 years, Roberto Pavlovic went from dishwasher to head barman to business partner. Then in 2014, he ventured out alone to open his own place, just a couple blocks away. And what a crackerjack of a bar it is! Shunning the current obsession with mixology, it’s all about the straight-up classics here—served to absolute perfection, of course. In dark, sumptuous surroundings, the chandelier is a real showstopper of a centrepiece.

Featuring around 80,000 freshwater pearls, the soft glow of the light draws patrons back to the bar, time and time again. Top tip: Roberto’s favorite drink is an Old Fashioned, and boy, does he make a mean one—the finest this side of the Atlantic, some say.

• Roberto American Bar, 1st District, robertosbar.com

Food ∙ Night

Heuringer Remixed

Try mixing ’90s digital nostalgia with an Austrianstyle bar-restaurant—and the result would probably resemble Zum Gschupftn Ferdl. “Schnitzel” and “Gschupfte Krapfn” dishes are served in this eclectic, Super Mario-flavoured space,alongside numerous live gigs and DJ sets that go on into the night.

(Yes, it’s as mad as it sounds!). Their lunch menus are also worthy of attention though, which isn’t surprising considering their products are 100% organic and delivered fresh by farmers from the region.

• Zum Gschupftn Ferdl, 6th District, zumgschupftenferdl.at

Shop

Apothecary from Above

This is not your average pharmacy.

Firstly, it has occupied the same spot since the turn of the century. Natural, traditional products have always been the name of the game here, an ethos which is apparent in their deluxe line of organic cosmetics. Most noteworthy is what is touted as Europe’s first pharmacy-restaurant. Raising the bar in the world of regional and organic cuisine, the cooks handpick the herbs and vegetables themselves. The result is a spellbinding, 10-course romp through the Austrian forest!

• Saint Charles Apotheke, 6th District, saint.info Vienna Calling

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Photo: Nils M端ller

Erwin Wurm is an artist who uses and simultaneously questions the medium of sculpture. His motto is “All is sculpture” and he acts on those words. Wurm, who initially applied to study painting at Mozarteum University in Salzburg, found himself majoring in sculpture instead after professors assessing his application assigned him to the discipline. So Wurm decided to mix the medium with his passion for painting. The result?

Sculptures that follow Wurm’s unique rules rather than the prevailing norms of the art form. For his ongoing series, One Minute Sculptures, the sculptures become visible only when the viewer interacts with the material Wurm selected. Such are the thought processes behind Wurm’s works.

Erwin Wurm

Art Move Vienna’s art scene thrives to this day, shaping the new instead of following the established. With works expressing her physical feelings, Maria Lassnig, for example, has sparked conversations about females in society and the art world. Erwin Wurm is also among the contemporary artists who define the city’s art landscape today. He questions the definitions of his medium of sculpture while challenging our perceptions of the ordinary. For 38HOURS, Wurm exposes his everyday life in Vienna.

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You are originally from Bruck an der Mur—you lived in Salzburg and Graz during your studies and then moved to Vienna, where you graduated from the University of Applied Sciences.

Was it there where you fell in love with the city and decided to stay?

I was in Berlin for half a year and in New York for one and a half years, but yes, apart from that, I have always lived in Vienna. The city has shaped me throughout my life and still does today. Vienna is like my mother’s milk. It attracts me, repels me and then attracts me again. I can’t imagine living any where else, especially since my family and friends are here.

What is it about Vienna that shapes you?

The cultural background; the intellectual horizon; the openness, and respectively, the closeness of society here; the architecture; the system of the city and the political capability that Vienna offers, or more precisely doesn’t offer. All this embeds you into a society and yes, that’s what connects me to Vienna.

You say you feel both attracted and repelled by Vienna. What causes these feelings?

I am fascinated by the history of the city, but at the same time, I feel repelled by the characteristic features that are a result of the history.

Austria went through tough times.

It was once an important country, but then it all collapsed and kind of lost its identity for many years.

During the Habsburg Monarchy, hierarchies were unalterably determining. While the monarchy disappeared, the notion of how society has to work, stayed. After a great misery, it’s mostly the case that you try to experience different directions.

And the Austrians did that too, with fascism, communism... and 14

they’re still trying different things today without finding what could serve as a central point and ensure calm. And this is what repels me.

When I grew up in the 1950s, 1960s, we were still a very restrictive society. With the 1968 movement, of course, people tried to rebel against restrictions, but the liberalization only became established very slowly.

And all this together—the new, the old, the contemporary, the conservative, the reactionary, the revolutionary— causes a very special atmosphere here.

Where in Vienna do you live?

In the second district, but actually very close to the first one.

The second district is the former Leopoldstadt, which was once home to a great Jewish community and is again now, too. Also a lot of young people are there—it’s a very mixed and enjoyable district, especially because it’s not overtaken by tourists. It’s more a presentation than a form of life. The first district is kind of cemented in its lifestyle. The second is more free.

Is your studio located in the second district, too?

It was there for a long time but now it’s in the countryside as I just have more space there—vehicle access for trucks and so on. It’s nearly impossible to find this in Vienna.

Vienna has experienced some exciting art movements. Was there something brewing when you finished your studies?

Back then, it was the time of the “Neue Wilde”—an art movement that I, by the way, just coincidentally became aligned with.

How did this happen?

I studied in the 1970s and was taught all prevailing doctrines of minimal and concept art. Once I

Architecture as a testimony of the imperial past: The Marble Hall in the Upper Belvedere.

read that you need to overcome the established to find yourself. As a reaction, I made classical sculptures out of not yet established material.

Photo: Belvedere, Wien / ub

Such as?

Waste. And as I actually wanted to become a painter, I painted them. This was against the thinking at the time, but then suddenly, it was accepted and even gained appreciation through this new movement. And that’s how I suddenly became an active part of it.

The Vienna Secessionist is one of those famous movements with big names such as Gustav Klimt. Which Art Move

other artists also represent Vienna as an art city?

Richard Gerstl, for example.

He’s from Klimt times. Or Arnold SchÜnberg for his paintings. And there are also Walter Pichler and Maria Lassnig, Arnulf Rainer, Hermann Nitsch and Valie Export.

I would also mention names that are likewise pioneering and worth mention, but from other disciplines.

Architects like Hans Hollein or Wolf Prix, for example.

Do you still go to galleries and museums to see exhibitions?

At the moment, less so, as I am traveling a lot, but I normally 15

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Photos: 1) WienTourismus / Peter Rigaud, 2) Plachutta

The “Kunsthistorisches Museum� features a 60 meter high dome.

Kunsthistorisches Museum 1st District Albertina 1st District Belvedere 3rd District Büro Weltausstellung 2nd District Mochi 2nd District Motto am Fluss 1st District Cafe Ansari 2nd District Karmelitermarkt 2nd District Naschmarkt 6th District Stephansdom 1st District Burgtor 1st District

Plachutta: A family run mini chain. Their signature dish: The Tafelspitz.

regularly go to the Kunsthistorisches Museum and also to other houses like the Albertina or Belvedere.

There are also some young, nice galleries and independent venues.

Büro Weltausstellung, for example, is great.

How else do you spend your free time in Vienna?

Back in the days when I was a student and a young artist, I still had time to stroll around. Today, I am mostly working and if there is free time, I meet friends or indeed go to a museum. And what I always do is take time for good food.

Where would you go for lunch, for example?

At Mochi. The kitchen is very contemporary, healthy and Japanese inspired.

And dinner?

Motto am Fluss or Ansari. It’s next door to the Mochi and serves Georgian cuisine—very nice, too.

Would you recommend these two spots to those visiting for 38 hours?

Art Move

Definitely. I would also show them the area around Praterstrasse, the street where Mochi and Ansari are located. It’s not just a good destination if you’re peckish—the neighborhood is also very nice.

Where else would you take sightseers?

Karmelitermarkt. A nice scene of very good restaurants and cool bars evolved around this market. Then, of course, I would also show the Naschmarkt, which is said to be Vienna’s most popular market. Next stop would be the Stephansdom. It’s really beautiful. And then I would walk with them through the Burgtor towards Heldenplatz. If you are standing there, the city kind of opens up in front of you—you will see the former Glacis where the city walls ended and the ground was left empty in order to have free sight in order to see who was approaching. But during Gründerzeit in the 19th century, all this free space got blocked. Buildings, such as the big museums—the Kunsthistorische Museum, the town hall, the Burgtheater, the Austrian parliament, are there now.

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Motto am Fluss: The fancy restaurant overlooks the Danube.

Do you also have kind of a secret spot?

The small alleys with all the little depressing shops are very attractive.

You will see shop windows that make you look at them in disbelief.

There might lay three dusty umbrellas and that’s it. Unbelievable that something like this is still possible today. Not in the first district, but in the second and many others where the city hasn’t been caught by modernization yet, where it still is antiquated. It has something attractively depressing—it’s in fact difficult to verbalize. That’s why I would show it.

Is there actually such a thing as ‘Vienna coziness’?

The so-called Vienna coziness went through a change with a culture that still had the Heuriger as the elixir and centre of life.

The Heurigen are venues where you go for a wine. You could even get 18

some food there and take it home.

I don’t experience it anymore at all, as Vienna is shaped by a hectic and fast pace like other big cities.

Starbucks is also here in Vienna, which, in my opinion, is an imposition on the city. We really don’t need Starbucks with such an amazing selection of great coffee.

And in the traditional coffee houses, you will also experience one remarkable feature that makes up Vienna: grumpy waiters.

People say you get the best coffee in Vienna. Do you agree?

What’s fact is that there is a great variation of coffee—the so-called Einspänner, Kleiner Brauner, Großer Brauner, Großer Schwarzer, Kleiner Schwarzer, Melange, Verlängerter and so on.

It’s not only the variation, but allegedly the water in Vienna is very soft—perfect for

Photos: 1) WienTourismus / Christian Stemper, 2) Björn Segschneider / Ausstellungsansicht “Postwest 1”/ Büro Weltausstellung 2014

Caption

Büro Weltausstellung is the open platform of the Vienna Art Foundation.

Café Prückel 1st District Café Museum 1st District Plachutta 1st District

coffee-making. And then there are all the cooked desserts that highlight each coffee indulgence. And all this happens in an environment where you are mostly still allowed to smoke as there is no general smoking ban in venues in Vienna.

And then the grumpy waiters —what a set!

Indeed! What coffee house do you suggest? Café Prückel or Café Museum.

Café Prückel still has its original interior from the 1950s. It looks super. You have to go there. And Café Museum still has its interior created by Adolf Loos. It’s, so to speak, the still-existing old Vienna.

Which pastry should you order to go with your coffee? The typical “Sachertorte”?

Yes, “Sachertorte” (chocolate cake) is always great. But there’s more.

“Cremeschnitte” (vanilla and custard cream cake)—delicious,“Schaumrolle”

Art Move

(cream pastry)—gorgeous “Punschkrapfen” (rum cake).

Which traditional meal is your favourite?

Prime boiled beef, for sure.

Plachutta is by far the best restaurant to eat it. And “Kaiserschmarrn”, another pastry which is also a lunch meal, goes well with stewed plums.

And all these other messes—Wiener Schnitzel, for example, or “Fleischk nödel” (meat dumpling), “Krautrouladen” (cabbage rolls) and “Schinkenfleckerl” (diced ham pasta).

That all sounds very heavy.

Yes, you shouldn’t eat too much of it; it’s life-endangering. Everything is made with butter, traditionally. Even rice will be tossed in butter here.

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2nd District

The Island

Start Making Sense

These days, when it’s easy to get lost in the World Wide Web, where everything’s virtual and cloudbased, it’s good to take a break in the real, analogue world—and Vienna might be the perfect place for that. Especially at Supersense, a new and unique concept store. Situated in a mock-Venetian palace from the late 19th century, Supersense is a store with pre-digital delights for all the senses—a time machine transporting you to analogue heaven.

Part workshop, part stylish retail space, part café, Supersense was co-founded by Florian Kaps, who—with his “Impossible Project”—saved instant photography by buying the last existing Polaroid factory in the Netherlands. Consequently instant photography is a major theme here—among other 20

wonderful stuff, Supersense sports the world’s largest Polaroid camera (which takes pictures in an incredible 20×24 format!). Wish you could turn your smartphone pictures into Polaroids? Supersense has a machine for that too. If you should fancy producing a vinyl record, just enter the “flabbergasting record elevator” and record your own 90 seconds of vinyl fame. There is even a completely analogue, livingroom studio that can be booked for longer sessions. And don’t forget your sense of taste by having a cup of wonderful coffee (from a machine handmade in Seattle by Italian immigrants) or trying one of the stores locally produced delicacies.

• Supersense, Praterstr. 70, 2nd, supersense.com

Photos: 1) Supersense, 2) Vincent Thibert, 3) Ansari, 4) Saba Song

Shop

Night

Sunset Tower

Le LOFT, the top-floor restaurant at the Sofitel Vienna designed by Jean Nouvel, not only provides a drop-dead gorgeous view across the city’s historic sights like the gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral or the Riesenrad, but it's become a landmark itself.

This is mainly due to the ceiling of the restaurant on the 18th floor, which was designed by Swiss video artist Pipilotti Rist. It looks like a kaleidoscope of autumn foliage and sky, twisting in gold, amber and blue. Because the ceiling is curved slightly, its reflections in the glass appear to extend out to the horizon. Perfect for a sundowner at the bar—no matter what season.

• Loft, Praterstraße 1, 2nd, sofitel.com

Food

Georgian Style

Café Ansari is located at the quiet end of Praterstraße. In this magical surrounding, former artist Nana Ansari and her husband Nasser created a casual yet stylish restaurant offering fusion food that might be described as Georgian-Oriental.

Designed by renowned Austrian architect Gregor Eichinger, Café Ansari emphasizes the small details.

Black tea is served in real British bone china, the Moroccan mint tea in small silver pots from Casablanca, and guests can help themselves to a free-of-charge drinking fountain—a statement on the ongoing discussion about the traditional free tap water policy in Viennese venues.

• Cafe Ansari, Praterstr. 15, 2nd, cafeansari.at

Shop

Brandmania

This former fur coat wholesaler turned concept store on Praterstraße offers upscale fashion, furniture and art. SONG ’s minimalist aesthetic with metal elements, wooden racks and concrete slabs also creates a perfect setting for rotating exhibitions and performances in its gallery (SONG SONG ).

Owner Myung il Song is a tasteful curator of apparel and she rejoices in mixing younger designers with established icons. Brands include: Dries van Noten, Paul Harnden Shoemakers, AF Vandevorst, Marc Le Bihan. Items of the classy Vienna manufacturer of glassware, J. & L. Lobmeyr, can also be bought here.

• Song, Praterstr. 11 – 13, 2nd, song.at 2nd District

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Food

Casual Avant-garde

If you’re looking for a perfect Wiener Schnitzel accompanied by great wine and followed by a creme brulée, Skopik & Lohn is the place for you.

It has the look of a modern French brasserie with an avant-garde edge (the ceiling’s painted with a spidery scrawl by Austrian artist Otto Zitko).

Waiters wear white suits, and the food is modern European and Austrian with a focus on French cuisine. Skopik & Lohn’s selection of Austrian and French wine is very impressive, and it’s a favourite among the local creative bohème—so be sure to book in advance.

• Skopik und Lohn, Leopoldsgasse 17, 2nd, skopikundlohn.at

Art in the Park

Hidden on the far side of the Augarten, a beautiful baroque park, you’ll find TBA 21—a progressive art space from Francesca Habsburg’s foundation, Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary. The foundation is dedicated primarily to the commissioning and exhibiting of ambitious projects that defy traditional categorizations, and its collection (featuring names like Sharon Lockhart or Heimo Zobernig) has gained a high reputation among art lovers. TBA 21’s restaurant—die AU—has a bar designed by Hans Schabus and a wonderful garden, where you can relax with a coffee or enjoy traditional cuisine with a contemporary twist.

• TBA 21, Scherzergasse 1A, 2nd, tba21.org

Food

Alpine Food

If you’re not in the mood for salad and calorie counting, restaurant Ü could be the place for you.

This eatery was created by three men from Vorarlberg, Austria’s most western and mountainous region known for its elaborate cheese production. Therefore you will find a hearty “Jause” (bread, ham, cheese, dark bread), dishes with a lot of “Speck” (bacon), or traditional “Käsknöpfle” (cheese dumplings—only Fridays) on the menu.

And when you are really full there's only one thing left to do: order some original Vorarlberg Schnaps —the selection at Ü is superb. Prost!

• Ü Lokal, Obere Augartenstr. 46, 2nd, ue-lokal.at

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Photos: 1) Stefan Joham, 2) Charsten Höller / JenFong Photography, 3) U Restaurant, 4) Alexi Pelekanos

Culture

Food

Grätzel Style

This former Jewish Quarter has seen dark times, when pretty much all of its population was deported during World War II, but has later managed to somewhat revive the ethnic diversity— mainly due to the immigration of Eastern European Jews. Some fifteen years ago Karmeliterviertel was also discovered by the creative and art scenes.

Although this “Grätzel” (neighbourhood) has subsequently seen considerable gentrification, it still offers some of the most interesting venues in town with a good range of authentic ethnic places and Viennese cuisine. A stroll through the market— which has existed since 1671—is well worth it. Set in a square with architecturally picturesque surrounds, the market is not overly crowded like the other major markets (think Naschmarkt and Brunnenmarkt) and vegetable stalls share the 2nd District

marketplace with butchers selling kosher and halal meats. On Saturday the square features a Bauernmarkt (farmers market).

Foodwise check out Zimmer 37 (featuring 5 Elements cuisine), Kaas am Markt (a deli and café with excellent organic and Slow Food dishes), or Café Einfahrt. Just around the corner from the market in Große Pfarrgasse, restaurant Das Engel welcomes guests with a charming marble-wooden reception that was once a pharmacy counter.

Smokers (yes, it is still a topic in Vienna) can come here for a cigarette break, the rest of the place is non-smoking.

• Karmelitermarkt, 2nd, several locations, see Index p. 67

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Photo: Lukas Gansterer

Roshi Parker & Wolfram Eckert Vienna-born Roshi Porkar studied fashion under Véronique Branquinho and Bernhard Willhelm at the University of Applied Arts. She’s worked for Lanvin Paris and Karl Templer in New York. In 2014 she won the Chloé Prize for her collection at International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères. Her boyfriend Wolfram Eckert, also based in Vienna, is a globetrotter too. He performs as a DJ and music producer in clubs and venues from Bogota to Venice under the pseudonym Wolfram Amadeus. His collaborations with Hercules and Love Affair, Patrick Pulsinger and Euro dance-legend Haddaway are some of Austria’s hottest musical exports.

Roshi Parker & Wolfram Eckert

Export Champions The creative couple perfectly represent Vienna’s vibe: a mix of highculture and underground, of tradition and innovation. Visit vintage shops and flea markets, local designers and Schnitzel restaurants, tiny streets and public pools with Roshi and Wolfram.

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Photos: 1) Robin Roger Peller, 2) Lukas Gansterer

Vienna nights: Lounging at Loos Bar (below), clubbing at Grelle Forelle (above).

Albertina 1st District Mumok 1st District Leopold 1st District MAK 2nd District Wien Museum 1st District Kunsthistorisches Museum 1st District Park 7th District Song 2nd District Firis 1st District Flo Nostalgische Mode 4nd District Prater Sauna 2nd District Grelle Forelle 9th District Roberto’s Bar 1st District Schloss Schönbrunn 13th District Burggarten 1st District

Export Champions

Roshi and Wolfram, you both work internationally and travel a lot…

What makes Vienna special to you?

Roshi: Our families, the quality of life…

Wolfram:…and the great tasting tap water.

You both have a creative background.

In this field, what should I not miss if I travel to Vienna?

Roshi: There are many museums like the Albertina, Mumok, Leopold, MAK, Wien Museum and the Kunsthistorisches Museum that shouldn’t be missed.

Wolfram: If you are interested in classical music or theatre there are always concerts, plays and operas that you can always get last-minute tickets to.

and Grelle Forelle. For a drink, I like Roberto’s American Bar! Roshi—if your best friend were to visit, what does the perfect day in Vienna look like for you two?

Roshi: I would probably just walk around the city with her. Take her to exhibitions, sit in old coffee houses for hours: Cafe Sperl, Prückl, Griensteidl, Havelka, and Central are all worth a visit. And depending on her interest in opera or theatre, I’d take her to a play. Then I’d take her for fancy drinks at night and get her a late-night sausage at one of the many legendary “Würstelstand” (sausage stands) in Vienna—definitely a must!

Wolfram—same question. What would you do if your best friend from Roshi, you’re a designer. What shouldn’t abroad were visiting?

I miss when I go shopping? What Wolfram: I would just take him kind of fashion is unique to Vienna? through all the tiny roads in the Roshi: Park has a very nice selec- first district where only the horses tion of fashion labels and a few hand and the carriages are allowed. Just picked local designers as well. Song walking through a city is sometimes also carries beautiful garments though better than going to a museum mainly international brands—the because the city itself is basically same goes for Firis. My favorite a museum. During summertime local designers are Femme Maison, Schloss Schönbrunn is also a nice Gon and Petar Petrov. These are spot to hang out, or in the garden friends and people I studied with. of the Burggarten where one can They started their own brands early grab a great coffee. on and have been creating beautiful collections ever since. If you like Where do you go in Vienna if you good vintage, the only place I can want to get inspired? recommend is Flo Nostalgische Wolfram: If you’ve lived in a city Mode, owned by a couple who claim long enough it’s hard to find places designers all over the world come that still inspire. to visit them to gather inspiration for Roshi: Plus, we don’t really like their collections. Whether this is the word “inspiration”. But in terms true or not, they definitely have of going to places in Vienna that a huge secret warehouse somewhere are unique and memorable we would in Vienna and regularly bring new suggest the Wurstelprater, an old things in. amusement park that dates back to the 18th Century. Or the Friedhof Wolfram, what’s the best place to der Namenlosen (Cemetery of the have a solid party? Is there a bar you Nameless). The saturday flea market recommend before clubbing? at Naschmarkt can be full of interWolfram: The clubs Pratersauna estingly strange discoveries.

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The original Streetfood: It's never too late for a Würstl.

Friedhof der Namenlosen 11th District Naschmarkt 6th District Neuwaldegger Bad 17th District Kuishimbo 6th District Skopik und Lohn 2nd District Restaurant Finkh 6th District

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And where do you relax?

Roshi: In the summer we love to go to the Neuwaldegger Bad, a very old, beautiful outdoor pool surrounded by a forest. Because it’s a little more expensive than other public pools it’s less frequented and is the perfect spot to relax.

It’s run by a small family, they also serve lunch, drinks, homemade cakes and ice cream there.

What’s your favourite place for dining out?

Wolfram: There is a tiny Japanese Restaurant called Kuishimbo in the Naschmarkt area where we’ve been eating for years. It’s run by a lovely Japanese family and serves delicious Kyoto-Style dishes. We love their Udon Soups, especially during the winter.

Roshi: Skopik und Lohn is another one of our favorites. Wolfram especially loves their Schnitzel. Restaurant

Finkh is also great; it’s mainly Austrian cuisine, but very refined.

Is there a place on the outskirts of Vienna that is worth travelling out of the city to see?

Wolfram: The Wienerwald and the Kahlenberg are definitely worth a visit. If you like walks through the forest that is. You can also just go to one of the old coffeehouses and enjoy the scenery and view of the city.

In your opinion: What is missing in Vienna to make the city even more perfect?

Roshi: 24-hour supermarkets.

Photos: 1) WienTourismus / Hertha Hurnaus, 2) WienTourismus / Peter Rigaud

Wurstelprater 2nd District

Fairytale garden: The park at Schรถnbrunn Palace is a public recreation site since more than 230 years.

Export Champions

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Wiener Blutwurst A photo showcase by Lukas Gansterer Following in the footsteps of photographers such as Teller and Richardson, Gansterer photographs his subjects in their most natural states with a minimalist approach. In this photo essay, Gansterer manages to capture the fading glory of the Austrian capital through the juxtaposition of Viennese nightlife characters and half-consumed local dishes.

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Photo: Marcel Haupt

Carola Schmidt is an artist of many talents. Spanning mediums, she works with film, video, performance art and photography and often combines techniques. Sister finishing her studies at the Berlin University of the Arts until 2007, she was quickly awarded with numerous awards for her music and video art. In 2012 Schmidt brought her alter ego Lulu Schmidt into being. Lulu is a performative, multitalented, erotic, romantic and overexposed persona, acting out her journey of self-discovery through her live music performances. Lately she’s collaborated as a singer with the Berlin band Tangowerk.

Carola Schmidt

Traditional Way Vienna is Carola Schmidt’s haven. Here she reconnects to her roots, recharges her batteries and finds the antidote to her busy everyday life which brings her to stages and studios all over the world.

Traditional food, stunning nature and the relaxed atmosphere of Vienna gives her the feeling of going back to her youth and calms her with its traditions from the old K&K times and its coffee houses and swimming places at the banks of the river Danube.

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Lena Hoschek Store: The Austrian designer is famous for her “Dirndl” collection but she is also a big fan of the 1950s.

Café Korb 1st District

Everyone has their own way of finding the right spots in a city—how do you usually do that?

When I travel, I go to the street.

I try to find people who look like me, are my age and have an aura that appeals to me, and ask them for advice. In my experience you should never follow the first advice, because thats the one thats obvious, the second one is their second guess and the third advice is the most private one, the one they really love. That’s the one I go for. That’s how I move when I am a foreigner in a place.

Now we’re curious about your third piece of advice for Vienna… But before that: what makes Vienna so special?

Vienna is a city where people are still sitting in the old coffee houses,

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reading and talking. The place I go to is the Café Bräunerhof. I really love the old people you see there.

The old world is still alive here. The Bräunerhof is the place my Grandma used to go to and it’s still the same.

A visit is like a time travel. They have live music. There is this old man coming with his violin and sometimes there is a piano player. They play the the traditional music called “Schrammelmusik”—which is never perfect. Its a sad sound, always a bit off tune and a bit squeeky. You immediately feel the vibe.

Vienna and its coffee houses... are there any others you would recommend?

Yes, I also love the Café Korb.

What I like about those old places is that most of them have a “Patronin”, an old woman who

Photo: Lena Hoschek

Café Bräunerhof 1st District

Leupold Restaurant 1st District Zum Roten Bären 9th District Gastwirtschaft Schilling 7th District Loos Bar 1st District Robertos Bar 1st District

Traditional Way

ownes the place for ages. They have pictures of her and the team on the wall from back in the day. Korb is also special because they have a “Kegelbahn” (the German/Austrian version of bowling) in the basement.

A lot of people I know go there, because it is in the first district. It’s easy to just pass by and accidentally end up there.

early stage beer. Zum Roten Bären serves them very fresh. You also get a nice Schnitzel at Gastwirtschaft Schilling.

If I don’t have the time for a big lunch, do you have a recommendation for a quick snack on the road?

You have to go to the “Würschtelbude” (sausage stand) and try an “Eitrige” (cheese sausage). I like the What’s on the menu at Bräunerhof or Würschtelbude next to the Albertina.

Korb? Which local dish should I try? It looks like a UFO. It’s very modern There are all those nice dishes and at least you know the sausage that only exist in Vienna. You didn’t stay there for more than five definitely should try one of these: days. Of course you are supposed “Eiernockerl mit frischer Petersilie” to order it with hot mustard and (Austrian dumplings made from fresh horseradish. Those places are semolina and flour), “Griesnockerln- open all night long, so they’re perfect suppe” (dumpling soup), “Mohnlate night food spots, when you’ve nudeln” (noodles with melted had a drink or two. In the daytime butter and poppy seeds), “Selchthere is also the “Extrawurstsemmel” fleischknödel” (meat dumplings), (sausage sandwich)—try it without “Käsespätzle” (cheese noodles), cucumber and order an extra “Marillenknödel” (stuffed dumpportion of “Extrawurst”. You can lings), “Powidltascherl” (sweet order it in any regular supermarket dumplings) or “Mohr im Hemd” at the meat counter. (chocolate cake). I personally also Vienna is best when it’s very love “gebackene Champignons mit traditional. My advice is: go with Sauce Tartare” (breaded mushthe traditional food. One thing thats rooms with tatar sauce). They are also very basic and you run into best at Leupold at Schottentor. everywhere in the city is Aida, a bakery brand. This is where old And of course Wiener Schnitzel… women go to buy cakes and baked Where can I get a perfect Wiener goods. My recommendation is Schnitzel in Vienna? to try an “Original Cremeschnitte” I would go to Zum Roten Bären.

—that’s much cheaper than an Thats my favourite spot right now, original “Sachertorte”, which is more because those guys go out of town of a tourist snack. Vienna is the to the markets or even to the perfect spot for gaining weight! mountain regions like the Steiermark to get the freshest seasonal Where do you get a decent drink in products available. Their menu Vienna? changes weekly and you have to For drinks only I would go to the reserve your dinner seats early, Loos Bar, and although it is featured because it’s booked out almost in some tourist guides, this is a real every night. Still they have a lunch classic. Many artists come here menu offering a perfect schnitzel and it’s a perfect nighttime location. daily or all the other “Hausmanns– Robertos Bar in first district also kost” (traditional food). Vienna has offers excellent cocktails. For good good beers too. You have to try an white wine there is also Zum Roten unfiltrated Zwickelbier, which is an Bären—one of my absolute 41

Elmayer 1st District Motto 5th District Strandbad Gänsehäufel 22nd District

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favourite spots at the moment. It’s a superb example of a “Wirtshauskultur”, which is basically the more traditional kind of place, offering local wines and dishes and all the specialities mentioned above.

district to either book a course or get their book about how to behave.

And for the easy nightlife... in terms of live music, clubs and parties, what are your recommendation?

Vienna people always go someSpeaking of wine... can you tell us where else. I would start a night at what a “Heuriger” is?

Motto. That’s the only spot in Vienna These are small taverns in the wine- where they have food and club growing regions in Austria. Like music at the same time. It’s a place pop-up restaurants that the winewhere you don’t get tired before growers run when they have their heading into the night because the wines made. They’re very much sound is just superb. The subculplaces for everyone. Everybody in ture scene is mostly posted on sothose communities helps out, even cial networks like facebook. It’s a children. You can find a “Heurigen” much smaller scene than, for examin virtually every small village ple, Berlin. It’s word- of-mouth around Vienna. I especially like the propaganda here. You can also grab whole region around Krems in the an issue of “Falter” magazine to Wachau, villages like Stein. You see what’s going on. But be aware, can’t go wrong with that. It’s just people smoke in the clubs...

45 minutes by car to the Wachau and you’re surrounded by winefields Back to daytime... what do you do —it’s hot and it feels like you’re sud- during the daytime on sunny Vienna denly in the south of Italy. Just Weekend? google the “Heurigenkalender”. But Actually, in the summer I love to you don’t even have to that. Just go to the countryside. You can go go to the countryside and watch for there easily—even with the tram. a little ring made of hay with a For example, you can go to the little bulb inside—when the bulb is Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) and lit that’s the sign that there’s a collect mushrooms. After that you “Heurigen” going on. So just stop head over to the Amtsstation to get and look for the next garage, sit your mushrooms tested—they will down, and let them cater to you. sort out the poisonous ones and then you go home with only the What about the nightlife—where do ones that are edible and taste good.

Austrians go on a night out?

For a short trip on the weekend I Austrians really love going to a also recommend going to the region “Ball”. Number one with the young of Wachau to take a swim in the people is the “Lifeball”. A smaller Danube. variation is the “Rosenball”. From In Vienna there’s the Strandbad April to November there is a Gänsehäufel—a lido on the banks of different “Ball” almost every day: the old arm of Danube. Its a very one for the “Zuckerbäcker” cool spot, because you’re out in (confectioner), one for the “Jäger” nature and in the distance you see (hunter)—the list is endless. There’s the skyscrapers of the business a small booklet which tells you district. Another nice thing is to where and when. Austrians learn take a boat trip, which boards at the dances and the etiquette in Schwedenplatz. You can make it school. If you plan to attend a ball to Budapest within three hours. you should visit Elmayer in the first Where else would you go to relax,

Steinhofgründe 14th District Villa Aurora 16th District Song 2nd District Mühlbauer 1st District Lena Hoschek 7th District We Bandits 6th District Feinkoch 6th District Habari 6th District

At Wirtshaus “Zum Roten Bären” a young team serves traditional cuisine with local ingredients.

in autumn and winter?

When I want to rest out I go to the Steinhofgründe. That’s a park where you can spot wild deer if you’re lucky. There’s also the beautiful Otto-Wagner-Kirche and an old hospital for the mentally challenged—the whole place is magic. And you have a great view over the city. There’s a restaurant close by: Villa Aurora. their speciality is “Kaiserschmarrn” (shredded pancake), but not a sweet one. This one is served with little pieces of Schnitzel, that’s very special. And in winter there is an open air iceskating place next to it.

Photo: John Prada

If I were in a shopping mood, where would you send me?

For fashion: Song in Praterstraße is great. They offer inspiring highend fashion plus a small selection of furniture. Or you could buy yourself a hat at Mühlbauer, a traditional hatmaker with innovative designs.

For a “Dirndl” visit Lena Hoschek’s shop—she’s famous for spicing up traditional Austrian dresses. Another of my favourite places is We Bandits Tradtitional Way

in Theobaldgasse. Also, Feinkoch— they have ready-to-cook meals with recipes, so you can make your own classic Viennese dish at home. Next is the Habari, which offers furniture from all over the globe. And in the Schleifmühlgasse you get all the vintage stuff.

Do you have any other special tip for a visitors what he shouldn’t miss?

Haha, yes. So, I told you I love simple things... You shouldn’t miss our tap water. Vienna probably has the best tap water in the world, spring water coming directly from the mountains. It’s much better than any bottled water you can get anywhere in the world—perfect for your skin and hair and it tastes just unbelievably good.

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3rd District & 4th District

Culture

Contemporary Redevelopment

The 21er Haus, Vienna’s newest museum and exhibition space for contemporary art, has seen quite a few transformations during its short history.

Originally designed for the Brussels World’s Fair in 1958, this modernist gem and masterpiece of minimalist, lightweight architecture was later moved to Vienna, and housed the Museum for 20th century art, and hence was nicknamed 20er Haus (Haus 20). After the arrival of the new century, in 2011, it was carefully modernised and remodeled by Adolf Krischanitz and consequently renamed 21er Haus. It’s now a branch of the nearby Belvedere 44

museums, and focuses on Austrian art of the 20th and 21th century. You will also find the Blickle Kino with its stunning 1950s design and spacious auditorium, based on the cinema from the original Expo pavilion. The museum’s surroundings are completely new as well! The 21er Haus offers a perfect starting point to explore one of Europe’s largest projects of urban redevelopment. Around the new Vienna Hauptbahnhof, an entirely new district with residential areas, office blocks, shops and cultural institutions is emerging.

• 21er Haus, Arsenalweg 1, 3rd, 21erhaus.at

Photos: 1) Gerald Zugmann, 2) Gregor Graf, 3) Emmanuel Plattard, 4) And:_I

Inside Out

Food

Precious Bread

This spin-off of the Joseph Brot boutique (1st district, Naglergasse) quickly became a popular breakfast, lunch and dinner place after it opened in late 2013. Owner Josef Weghaupt (photo) only processes ingredients from local producers he personally knows—and even the terrazzo stone stables in this minimalistically designed venue have their roots in the region. There is also a upscale take-out bakery attached where you can buy bread, fantastic patisserie, and Viennese homemade delicacies. Be sure to try the freshly made “Belegte Brote” (sandwiches).

• Joseph Brot, Landstraße Hauptstraße 4, 3rd, joseph.co.at

Night

Rock around the Malipop

“And even if the world should end, I’m sure that inside here nothing can happen to me,” Viennese singer-songwriter Ernst Molden sings in his eulogy to Café Malipop. Indeed, once you’re inside this little alternative café-bar, time seems to slow down.

The place was opened in 1979 and since then has stayed pretty much the same. It has a French, intellectual flair and the walls are coated with a smoky patina of old and new concert posters. Frau Margit, the bar’s owner, plays records from her impressive vinyl collection (mostly indie or classic rock) and serves beer and toast. A wonderful place for late night conversations.

• Malipop, Ungargasse 10, 3rd

Shop

Silver Man

Welcome to Vienna’s flamboyant side, where extravagance meets artisan handcraft—welcome to AND_i jewellery. Goldsmith and sculptor Andreas Eberharter has made his mark with highend accessories and jewellery made of silver and leather as well as unusual materials such as aluminium. His fanciful pieces are in international demand, the metal eye patch by AND_i has become a desirable cult object after it was used in Lady Gaga’s “Paparazzi” video. The Workshop in the 3rd district (open only Thursdays) also offers ready-to-wear pieces.

• AND_i, Hohlweggasse 11/2, 3rd, and-i.com

3rd District & 4th District

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Shop

Pure Porcelain

The basic material of all objects of the label feinedinge is the special Limoges porcelain. The shelves in the 340 m2 shop are stacked with vases, lamps and tableware, most of them in white or pastel colours. Each item is handmade in the workshop attached to the shop and therefore can slightly differ in form, colour and décor which adds to the individual flair of the label. The development of the illuminating object “moonstruck” was and is very important in the chronology of the label that has been in existence for more than ten years. Despite its fragile appearance, feinedinge’s tableware is dishwasher proof and fit for everyday use.

• Feineding, Margaretenstr. 35, 4th, feinedinge.at

Food

A la Granny

The name of café-bar is a tribute to the owner’s grandmother, Erna. And that’s not the only reference to Elisabeth Bader’s roots. Papa Bader renovated the wooden tables, the café’s chairs once belonged to the fire station in her hometown and the huge industrial lamps to an ice skating hall.

As far as the food is concerned, Erna B. is a family business as well. Mouth-watering homemade pies and snacks are on offer and Granny Erna also pops in once in a while to help out. The perfect cosy hangout after a stroll through the city—and also a nice place to have a sip in the evening, try a pint of Czech lager Velkopopovický Kozel.

• Erna B., Große Neugasse 31, 4th, ernab.at

Sweet ’n’ Sauerkraut

If during your stay, you should tire of Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz or Gulasch, then ON might be a welcome alternative. This restaurant has the look of a modern Viennese Gasthaus, but the cuisine is in fact Chinese, mixed with many international and indeed Austrian influences. Think oriental sea bass meets Sauerkraut. Beside being a wonderful cook, ON’s chef Simon Xie Hong is also a qualified doctor of traditional Chinese medicine, so he knows about the importance of food for our health—a fact that is reflected in the choice of his ingredients.

In the summer there are also tables in the wonderful backyard garden.

• ON, Wehrgasse 8, 4th, restaurant-on.at 46

Photos: 1) Feine Dinge, 2) erna B., 3) ON, 4) Victoria Schaffer

Food

Shop

Walk of Fashion

The luxurious high-end brands might be found in Vienna’s inner city but the more diverse, interesting shops and local designers you will find in the 7th and especially in the 4th district. Start your stroll at Pregenzer Fashion Store at Schleifmühlgasse which has been around for more than 20 years. Jutta Pregenzer sells her own purist fashion as well as international labels. Turn left at Margaretenstraße where you’ll find the charming Elfenkleid (photo), specialized in elegant evening and bridal creations (number 39 ). Just a couple of houses further the designer duo superated operates a store called Samstag (number 46 ) including brands like Chalayan, La Casita de Wendy, Grosser Heinrich or the 3rd District & 4th District

Austrian labels House of the Very Island’s, Andy Wolf Eyewear and of course their own collections.

Diagonally across from here, the concept store Unikatessen (number 45 ) is worth a visit, offering unique pieces and small collections by aspiring young designers. If you are hunting for funky vintage items, Little Joe’s Gang Vintage Shop might be the place for you. It has some fantastic finds, shoes and sunglasses, from classic brands like Chanel.

There’s also a Little Joe’s line of bags and t-shirts.

• 4th, several locations, see index p. 67

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Singing in the Boys Choir

Viennese hospitality is not just a magnet for tourist culture vultures, conference participants and international diplomats. Even the city’s clandestine workers feel comfortable in the capital on the Danube.

Vienna is the European capital of spies, agents and intelligence services.

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Photos: Flight over Wien of the 1918, Public Domain

Espionnage in Vienna

On a hazy summer day at the Vienna airport, a Russian and an American plane land almost simultaneously. At the aircraft parking area, the two aircrafts stand next to each other. Stairs are brought down; the doors open. People leave the American plane and get into a black van that takes them to the Russian aircraft. There, another group gets in and is driven to the American aircraft. People disappear into the aircraft, the doors are closed, the stairs are moved away. The Russian machine takes off around 12:30; the American, a quarter of an hour later. It took less than two hours on 9th July 2010 to complete the procedure, which was considered the biggest spy swap since the Cold War. The fact that the Vienna airport served as the backdrop for this is no coincidence. As a spy capital, Vienna stands next to Washington and New York in stature. Although Vienna itself has not played a significant role in world history since the end of the Habsburg monarchy, it has become a stage for those who dominate world political events. There are suspected to be about 7000 spies currently in Vienna. With liberation from the Nazi regime by the Red Army and the division of the city into four zones of occupation, this was one of the first and most important sites in the Cold War. “The Third Man”, Caroll Reed’s spy thriller, portrays this phase of contemporary history in a dark, cynical and debt-laden Vienna like no other film.

Also, the withdrawal of the occupying powers does not change the significance of the Danube metropolis: Although the “Four in a Jeep”, the international patrol of the occupation forces, left Vienna in the summer of 1955, their intelligence system remains. Austria’s neutrality freed the country from the occupying forces and started the ascent of Vienna to becoming the third UN city. The labelling of the federal capital as a centre of espionage and the prime meridian between East and West continues to grow.

The local environment of Vienna offers intelligence services almost ideal conditions. Because the city is home to a variety of corporations, diplomatic missions and international institutions— the UN, IAEA , OPEC and OECD —the central resources of the information business can be found here in abundance. Even bigger than the supply of information is perhaps only the grey zone of opportunities to get to it. In Austria, espionage is prohibited only if it is directed against the Republic itself. As long as intelligence services do not infringe the basic rules of hospitality and behave in a somewhat discreet manner, staying in line with the proven “Do not ask, do not tell” method, officially, generally speaking, people usually know nothing and do not even have to ask.

The high quality of life and the safety of the Danube metropolis enhances its standing as a spy nexus. Just like everybody else, spies also enjoy the ordinary amenities of the city: its culture, the quality Espionnage in Vienna

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The film industry has picked up the the topic: “Stolen Identity”, set in Vienna.

of life, good food, and water that you can drink from the tap. Vienna is a popular posting in intelligence circles and in the CIA it was so highly regarded that there was a separate expression for the placement: agents who went to Vienna were ‘singing with the Boys Choir’.

According to the journalist and intelligence expert Emil Bobi there are also cultural characteristics that distinguish Vienna as a city of espionage. He sees the Viennese as natural spies: “It’s life here.

It’s part of Vienna’s culture.” The Viennese were always eager to meet strangers and to judge their agenda and would therefore have a high level of human knowledge in dealing with other cultures. They are experts in keeping their own circumstances secret and offering the other the benefit of their experience and the opportunity to employ them. The more whispers you know, the more important you are— because secrets are at the core of Viennese society: “Viennese society is built on secrets and people live to have secrets. If you have a secret in Vienna you are somebody.”

There seems to be no shortage of Viennese with secrets—not just in the literary world such as Arthur Schnitzler’s “Traumnovelle” (Dream Novel), but also in real life. After the fall of the Iron Curtain it was announced that about 12,000 city residents had spied for the USSR. They included Helmut Zilk, who was responsible for the fate of the city from 1984 to 1994 and is still considered one of its most popular mayors. At the same time Zilk lived in a residential house where the CIA maintained apartments for agents to work. It is believed that Zilk was active as a double agent. That would explain 50

why his activities have never been made public, although they were known to the State Police. The existence of a double agent is nothing more than a specific form of international understanding and inter-cultural dialogue—thus it’s considered a profoundly Viennese property. It fits so well, why shouldn’t the mayor of the capital of espionage be a spy himself?

Bobi goes on to speak of the “Wiener truth”—which is only a part of the “whole truth”. And indeed, the Viennese have special access to truth. The residents of this city don’t find it uncomfortable, per se, but it can be considered impractical, or worse—rude. Bobi explains that when things are clear and known that they are no longer negotiable. The “not setting in stone” which is typical of Vienna, allows you to have done something differently in retrospect. For him, a lot has to do with “Viennese artfulness”, which is usually rephrased as “Viennese charm”. What this translation deliberately omits is that this charming and joyful form of behaviour is maintained even when dealing with the truth. “Austrians tend to make their lives easier. So, first of all, they are very polite and second, they do not mean it.” revealed Oscar winner Christoph Waltz when he was a guest on Conan O’Brien—he was speaking about his countrymen and their creative approach to the truth. This protects the other person from the truth and thereby places them at a loss.

While this typical Viennese behaviour can be observed in the everyday life of the city quite easily, there are of course only very limited opportunities to observe the espionage activities themselves.

The places where they occur can, however, be visited—and not just the historical locations, such as the Vienna sewers in the wake of “The Third Man”. The documents leaked by Edward Snowden list several Viennese NSA listening posts, some of which are now well known. One of them is a villa in the middle-class district of Währing.

If you believe the Austrian news magazine “Format” about 70 percent of telecommunications traffic in the city is monitored. Another monitoring system is located on the roof of the US Embassy and a third is suspected to be on the roof of the IDZ Towers, where the US mission is quartered at the United Nations. From the roof of the building you can look down on the United Nations headquarters just 50 meters away. Another spy hotspot will inevitably be visited by many guests of the city: the transit area at Schwechat Airport is considered one of the busiest hubs for information of all kinds.

Who knows, you might even find yourself in a handover or even an exchange of prisoners during your next visit to Vienna.

Text by Werner Sturmberger. Werner Sturmberger is social scientist and freelance journalist in Vienna. He is frequent Contributor to Heureka, the science & humanities-insert of the Viennese city-magazine Falter. For magazines like Biorama or The Gap he covers topics related with ecology and urbanism as well as music, film and theatre.

Espionnage in Vienna

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Erwin Gegenbauer

The Insider

Just as Erwin Gegenbauer’s clients are chefs and gourmets, he too is a real foodie. But to get a feeling for the real soul of Vienna he recommends sampling some simple pleasures: having a traditional meal in a “Wirtshaus”, exploring a more delicate side of Vienna from a “Heuriger” in one of the vineyards, or dining at the first vegetarian Michelin star restaurant.

Photos: 1) Andreas Pessenlehner, 2) Gerhard Wasserbauer

Erwin Gegenbauer In Vienna’s Favoriten district, his family’s company was originally founded by Ignaz Gegenbauer in 1929. In 1992 Erwin Gegenbauer developed the business from mass production of canned goods to high quality products like vinegar, juice and oil—manufactured in a traditional way with local ingredients. His vinegars are now used by top chefs all over the world. You can find Gegenbauer’s products on Naschmarkt or take a tour and stay for the night in the “Wiener Gäste Zimmer” guesthouse set directly in his vinegar distillery, in the heart of Vienna.

Restaurant Konstantin Filippou: Michelin-starred cuisine served in a minimalist interior.

Meixner’s Gastwirtschaft 10th District Gasthaus Wolf 4th District Purzl’s 23rd District Heuriger Spaetroth Gumpoldskirchen

Your products are very successful in the high-class gastronomy sector, globally—and you’ve lived in many different cities. What keeps you in Vienna?

Yes, that’s true. I spent time in Paris, London and New York when I was young. That was simply to see what other cultures are like, and what the pots and pans look like in other places. That fascinates me. I can recognise the culture of a people in its cookware. But back to the point: why I stayed in Vienna, I can rest here. Vienna is a comfortable city. I’m able to withdraw and concentrate on my work. The privacy I have here is unprecedented.

Where in Vienna should can I hope to see the city’s nature in its cookware?

Go to a “Wirtshaus” (traditional tavern). You can taste traditional Viennese food and see how it developed. Viennese cuisine is mixed, with diverse influences from many regions of Europe. I would say that

The Insider

it’s the first cosmopolitan cuisine: with sweet dishes from Bohemia and Moravia, goulash from Hungary, spicier dishes from the Balkan countries—the mix is what makes it so unique. It also still involves plenty of handicraft.

Which taverns do you recommend?

Meixner’s Gastwirtschaft is great and traditional. I also find the Gasthaus Wolf very good. That’s actually quite a hot tip, in the 4th district—first-rate. Or Purzl’s; it was previously used as a TV studio for a cooking show and it’s furnished with fixtures from old taverns that shut down. The food there is excellent.

What about “Heuriger”—the traditional wine taverns, do you have a recommendation?

The best winery for me is in Gumpoldskirchen, which is quite a well-known wine town—it’s called Heuriger Spaetroth. A Michelin-star 53

Tian 1st District Konstantin Filippou 1st District Steirereck 1st District Naschmarkt 6th District Karmelitermarkt 2nd District Victor-Adler-Markt 10th District

54

cook serves traditional regional food there. Of course, they also have wonderful wines, especially from local grape varieties such as Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. Those are fantastic old wines, different from the mainstream.

restaurant is the Restaurant Konstantin Filippou. It has a Michelin star too. The Steirereck, of course, is still wonderful—it will certainly get its third star sometime the next few years. The cuisine there is truly innovative; each course takes one to new depths with great clarity.

Can you recommend a specific vintner?

Yes, I suggest two: the Johannes- Besides taverns and star-crowned hof Reinsch and the Schaflerhof. restaurants, any other tips to discover Both of those are really good estates Vienna? with interesting wines.

The markets—naturally, the area around the Naschmarkt. This is So, let’s move away from tradition... not just Vienna’s culinary heart.

A vegetarian restaurant in Vienna Galleries, small bars, taverns, coffee was the first of its kind to receive a houses: this area really has a lot to Michelin star. Where can I find mod- offer. Also, the Karmelitermarkt in ern and innovative cuisine in the city? the old Jewish quarter, where one That takes us into the top ranks. can sense the old classical Viennese The vegetarian restaurant you men- culture and lifestyle. And for sometioned, Tian—that’s really high-class. thing completely untouched, then It’s a bit too opulent for my taste, definitely try the Victor-Adler-Markt but the effort invested in the dishes in the 10th district. There, one is incredible, not to mention the can have a very pure, non-touristic ingredients used. It’s just excellent. experience, and brush shoulders Another very interesting upper-class with people from anywhere you can

Photos: 1) Hertha Hurnaus / WienTourismus, 2) Helmut Pierer / pierer.net / PPAG architects

Still the heart of the Vienna’s food scene: the Naschmarkt. The whole area around the market is worth exploring.

© Helmut Pierer

Steirereck: Excellent food meets innovative architecture. The location in the park was developed by PPAG architects.

Cafe Prückel 1st District Café Korb 1st District Loos Bar 1st District Pearl Bar, Park Hyatt Hotel 1st District

imagine. The quarter has just been refreshed because of the new central station. The 10th district has a bad image and is considered a classic working-class area. However, it’s currently undergoing rapid development. If you want a real experience, go there, where the unspoilt life thrives.

Where are your spots to withdraw to, after a market day for instance?

As always, the classic coffee house. It plays a very important role here. Even if they don’t actually have good coffee! One orders a cup, gets a glass of water with it, and can then read the papers—undisturbed—for hours on end.

Which coffee house can you most often be found?

In the Cafe Prückel, perhaps. Or in the Café Korb. But I’m also a bar frequenter. I like to go to bars… and I don’t just drink one cocktail!

The Insider

Which bars do you hit then?

While the Loos Bar isn’t a wellkept secret anymore, it’s still lovely.

The new bar in the Park Hyatt Hotel is also worth a visit.

That all sounds great! Is there anything that you don’t like about Vienna?

The opening times on Sundays are a horror. Everything is closed on Sundays. That’s a catastrophe here. Especially for visitors who come to town just for the weekend.

Ah... So what is there to do on a Sunday in Vienna?

Stay in bed—hopefully not alone!

Or go out to the countryside. It doesn’t take long to get to the vineyards and the nice countryside restaurants. It takes 20 minutes by car, and shows you a whole new side of the region.

55

Wiener Melange

Eyecatcher

Royal Skull Would a perfume in any other bottle smell as sweet? Wendy & Jim answer that question with their cold modern twist on a classic idea.

The fashion designer duo mix clever china work with naturally sourced fragrances. Skeletons made out of the highly esteemed Royal Viennese porcelain.

• wendyjim.com

The jewellery by Melanie Haarhaus has a subtle dark touch. Her handmade designs are fantastically finished and whether it’s a silver skeleton with golden ornaments or a gallant rose, you’ll find it difficult not to stare. Her work is playful yet stunning—one can decide to take it with a smile or enjoy the aesthetic for its artistic originality.

• by appointment only, melaniehaarhaus.com

Heritage Hats Counting Yoko Ono and Madonna among their past patrons, Mühlbauer provides a shopping experience of both high quality and diversity. All fabrics and styles are assembled and brought to you according to the season of your choice. Their hats are unique and they manage to mix tradition with a modern touch.

• muehlbauer.at

56

Books

Movies

Music

Night Work • Thomas Glavinic, 2006

Müllers Büro • Niki List, Hans Selikovsky, 1986

10 Years Of Cheap Records • Various, 2004

The “Omega Man” scenario set in Austria: Jonas wakes up one morning in modern Vienna and discovers that he’s the only human beeing around. But where Charlton Heston in the 1971 sci-fi film had to shoot zombies, Jonas is fighting with solitude and the monsters of his subconscious. A thrilling and deep piece of fiction from the city of Freud.

This comedy is set in mid-80s Vienna and plays with film noir and musical clichés. A singing private eye meets a strange character in Vienna’s red light district.

A trippy movie experience—typical for the cult filmmaker Niki List.

The A-team of the Vienna’s electronic music pioneers: listen to techno

by Christopher Just, post-punk by Potuznik, or to the voice of Louie Austen who transformed from a bar singer to an underground star.

The highlight: “Claire”—one of the most elegant club tracks ever— written by Pulsinger & Tunakan.

The Third Man: The Fallen Idol • Graham Green, 1948 Following this murder mystery will take you on an exploration of the post-war shadows of its palaces and ruins. Having left his job, the American protagonist finds himself investigating the sudden death of his host. Graham Green’s eloquent writing meant it was no surprise that this book became an all-time classic film.

The Man Without Qualities • Robert Musil, 1930–1942 Hailed as one of the most important modernist novels, it addresses themes ranging from science, economics, philosophy and psychoanalysis. The plot depicts Viennese society months prior to the beginning of the first world war. This novel took Musil over 20 years to write. Not having achieved any commercial success at the time, he died in 1942, broke. The novel was not completed.

Wiener Melange

The Piano Teacher • Michael Hanneke, 2010 The story of a sex-addicted piano teacher, Isabelle Hupert, teaching at the Vienna Conservatory and her relationship with her student.

A dark tale, where the juxtaposition of piano and hard mechanical machines creates interesting and layered melodies—especially the ones of Vienna’s own Schubert that are present throughout the film.

A classical Euro art-shock porn masterpiece.

20th Century Masterpieces • Alban Berg Quartet, 2008 A product of the Vienna Academy of Music, they’re lauded as one of the finest string quartets of our time. Whether they play Alban Berg, Arnold Schoenberg or Béla Bartók—their execution holds up to their reputation: immaculately harmonious and tastefully subtle.

Surely one of Vienna’s finest cover bands.

1st April 2000 • Wolfgang Liebeneiner, 1952

Psychoterror • Drahdiwaberl, 1980

A political satire depicting a vision of once-again blamed Austria in the year 2000. The nation has to prove that it is no longer a nation of war but of peace. On the one hand, there’s a submersion into total fictional creativity and wonder with spaceships, a Global Union and futuristic sets, on the other hand a frim re-attachment to Austria’s authentic heritage.

An interesting combination, not to be missed.

If Frank Zappa had been from Vienna he likely would have been one of the members of this band.

Punk meets funk with anarchoinspired lyrics in Austrian-German and English. Falco made his first stage appearances with this combo and introduced his future hit “Ganz Wien” to their underground audience.

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Where to stay

Ruby Sofie Hotel

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The library and 24-hour bar feature design classics, vintage pieces, and original items from the building’s past.

Book now on 38hrs.com

Where to stay

25hours Hotel

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Advertorial

The 25hours Hotel Vienna at MuseumsQuartier might be the most playful place to stay in Vienna. The interior design is largely inspired by the circus, perfectly embodying the surreal and surprising fantasy atmosphere. The combination of material, shapes and colours transform each of the 217 rooms into an individual retreat. With its excellent location, right in the center of the museum district, all major attractions are easily reachable. The rooftop bar, in-house restaurant, and food truck at the hotel offer attractive dining options to help you savour your day.

Where to stay

The Guesthouse

Advertorial

Once a 1950s student hostel, The Guesthouse is now a temple of clean, comfortable interior design. The boutique hotel conversion is outfitted with modern design classics by Wittmann and Kiesler, selected by none other than Sir Terence Conran. Its supreme location in the centre of town, surrounded by classical Viennese architecture and charming small streets, makes The Guesthouse an ideal spot for a picture-perfect city break. Personal service and the down-to-earth atmosphere pay homage to the hotel’s humble beginnings, and the famous in-house bakery adds an extra cozy charm. You’re sure to feel at home in this relaxed and welcoming spot.

Book now on 38hrs.com

64

Observations

Out of the Dark Something warm and wet is touching my face; it feels like a dogs tongue. I hear music, a rural version of Falco’s ‘Ganz Wien’. I’ve never heard it sound like this, but the voice is definitely his.

I hear children laughing and the gentle voice of a woman.

“Hans, come quick—he woke up!“ The music stops. It sounds like people are leaving.

Where am I? I open my eyes and see a man entering the room.

“You’ve been sleeping for days,“ he says.

“The dog found you in the woods under a fallen tree. We’re glad you’re alive. Are you hungry?“ Wait a minute—this is not happening. Is that Falco? I must be dead then.

Later that night we are sitting at a giant wooden table in the open kitchen of the farmhouse. He’s looking good. Not that he ever looked bad, but now he seems very much in balance with himself.

“Hello, stranger,“ he greets me, smiling and offering wine and food.

“Falco? What happened? The world thinks you’re dead—how is this possible?”

“Please don’t call me Falco. That was a marketable international brand; its history. Just call me Hans.“ “Of course… Sorry, Hans, but how come you’re alive?“ “Well, that was a deal I made with a friend, a famous ex-racecar driver who was very concerned about my lifestyle in the late 80s. He said: Hans, you have to get away from all the bullshit. Why can’t you stop messing up and start over? Step out of the light. It’s time for you to really get clean and start living a happy life.“ “But wasn’t that why you moved to the Dominican Republic in the first place?“ “Of course, but it didn’t work, even the Dominican cab drivers were greeting me with ‘Alles klar, Herr Kommissar’ and offered me everything that would destroy me. So my friend and I figured out the only way to kill Falco was to let Hans Hoelzl die. We faked the accident, arranged a coffin to Out of the Dark Paris

be flown back to Vienna, and staged a funeral.“ He laughs.

“What a big success!“ The door flies open, and the room suddenly fills with happy kids. “Daddy!“ they cheer, and jump onto him. He laughs, gives them kisses and asks his wife to take them to bed.

“I’ll be right there for a goodnight story.“ He turns back to me.

“You see, I’m a happy farmer now.“ “So, you still make music then?“ “Of course. You never stop being a musician; it just doesn’t matter anymore if I earn money with it.”

“But, if you were young again, would you do it all again?“ He takes a sip of wine and smiles.

“Maybe I wouldn’t live my life to such extremes.

On the other hand, I doubt, that I would have been able to write songs like ‘Ganz Wien’ or ‘Der Kommissar’ in a clean state of mind. It’s one thing to push things to the limit and another thing to moralise without experience. I guess that just doesn’t work. But why would I even think about that? There’s no need to.“ His beautiful wife enters the room.

“Hans, the children—they’re waiting for their story.”

I’ll be right there, honey—just a second.”

He turns towards me.

“I’m an organic farmer now, and at nights I play music in the barn with my boys from the village.

It’s like a dream to me. Why the hell would I want to go back? Everybody out there is under constant surveillance. From up here it seems to me that I’m observing robots living a fake life, guided by fake promises. Its all fake down there. I don’t miss a thing…“ Back in Vienna, I nevertheless decided to buy some flowers, enter the Straßenbahn and pay his grave a visit. Zentralfriedhof, Abteilung Ehrengräber, Gruppe 40.

Text by Jörg Henning Illustration by Krista Bursey

65

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Index

Café Korb Brandstätte 9 +43(0)1.53 37 215 cafekorb.at → p. 40, 55 F

Loos Bar Kärntner Durchgang 10 +43(0)1.51 23 283 loosbar.at → p. 41, 54 N

Tian Himmelpfortgasse 23 +43(0)1.89 04 665 tian-vienna.com → p. 54 F

LOFT Praterstrasse 1 +43(0)1.90 61 60 sofitel.com → p. 21 F N

Café Museum Operngasse 7 +43(0)1.241 006 20 cafemuseum.at → p. 18 F

Motto am Fluss Schwedenplatz 2 +43(0)1.25 25 510 motto.at → p. 42 F N

Wien Museum Karlsplatz 8 +43(0)1.505 874 70 wienmuseum.at → p. 27 C

MAK Stubenring 5 +43(0)1.71 13 60 mak.at, → p. 9 C

Albertina Albertinaplatz 1 +43(0)1.53 483 albertina.at → p. 27 C

Café Prückel Stubenring 24 +43(0)1.51 26 115 prueckel.at → p. 18, 27, 55 F

Mühlbauer Seilergasse 10 +43(0)1.53 35 269 muehlbauer.at → p. 43 S

Burggarten Josefsplatz 1 +43(0)1.53 39 083 → p. 27 O

Elmayer Bräunerstraße 13 +43(0)1.51 27 197 elmayer.at → p. 42 C

Palmenhaus Burggarten 1, +43(0)1.53 31 033 palmenhaus.at → p. 9 F O

Burgtheater Universitätsring 2 +43(0)1.51 44 441 40 burgtheater.at → p. 17 C

Firis Bauernmarkt 19 +43(0)1.53 34 275 firis.at, → p. 27 S

Pearl Bar / Park Hyatt Am Hof 2 +43(0)1.227 401 183 vienna.park.hyatt.com → p. 55 N

C F N

O S

Culture Food Night Outdoors Shop

1st District

Burgtor Heldenplatz +43(0)1.211 140 84 → p. 17 C Café Bräunerhof Stallburggasse 2 +43(0)1.51 30 549 braeunerhof.at → p. 40 F

Heldenplatz Heldenplatz → p. 17 O Joseph Brot Naglergasse 9 +43(0)1.71 02 881 joseph.co.at → p. 45 F

Café Central Herrengasse 14 +43(0)1.53 33 763 palaisevents.at → p. 27 F

Kunsthistorisches Museum Maria-Theresien-Platz +43(0)1.01 525 240 press.khm.at → p. 17 C

Café Griensteidl Michaelerplatz 2 +43(0)1.535 269 20 cafegriensteidl.at → p. 27 F

Leupold Restaurant Schottengasse 7 +43(0)5 33 93 811 4 leupold.at → p. 41 F

Café Havelka Dorotheergasse 6 +43(0)1.51 28 230 hawelka.at → p. 27 F

Little Joe’s Gang Vintage Shop Operngasse 34 / V +43(0)1.96 67 534 → p. 47 S

Index

Plachutta Wollzeile 38 +43(0)1.51 21 577 plachutta.at → p. 18 F Restaurant Konstantin Filippou Dominikanerbastei 17 +43(0)1.51 22 229 konstantinfilippou.com → p. 54 F Roberto American Bar Bauernmarkt 11-13, +43(0)6.769 429 001 robertosbar.com → p. 10, 27, 41 N Stephansdom Stephansplatz 3 +43(0)1.515 523 054 stephanskirche.at → p. 17 C

2nd District Ansari Praterstrasse 15 +43(0)1.27 65 102 cafeansari.at → p. 17, 21 F Büro Weltausstellung Praterstr 15 +43(0)6.76 43 021 91 rendi.at → p. 17 C Café Einfahrt Haidgasse 3 +43(0)1.94 26 886 einfahrt.at → p. 23 F Das Engel Große Pfarrgasse 5 +43(0)1.2127894 dasengel.at → p. 23 F Haus 21 Arsenalweg 1 +43(0)1.795 570 21erhaus.at → p. 44 S C Kaas am Markt Karmelitermarkt 33 +43(0)1.69 918 140 601 kaasammarkt.at → p. 23 F Karmelitermarkt → p. 54 O F S

Mochi praterstraße 15 +43(0)1.92 51 380 mochi.at → p. 17 F Pratersauna Waldsteingartenstraße 135 +43(0)1.72 91 927 pratersauna.tv → p. 27 N O Skopik und Lohn Leopoldsgasse 17 +43(0)1.21 98 977 skopikundlohn.at → p. 22, 28 F Song Praterstraße +43(0)1.53 22 858 song.at/shop → p. 21, 27, 43 S Supersense Praterstrasse 70 +43(0)1.96 90 832 the.supersense.com → p. 20 S Ü Lokal Obere Augartenstraße 46 +43(0)1.96 91 013 ue-lokal.at → p. 22 F Wurstelprater Prater 7 +43(0)1.728 05 16 prater.at → p. 28 O

67

Zimmer 37 Karmelitermarkt 37-39 +43(0)6.99 17 23 73 11 zimmer37.at → p. 23 F

3rd District 21 Haus Arsenalweg 1 +43(0)1.79 55 70 21erhaus.at → p. 44 C Belvedere Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27 +43(0)1.79 55 71 34 belvedere.at → p. 17 C Cafe Malipop Ungargasse 10 → p. 45 F Restaurant Steirereck Am Heumarkt 2A +43(0)1.71 33 168 steirereck.at → p. 54 F Schmuckdesign Andreas Eberharter Hohlweggasse 11/2 and-i.net → p. 45 S

4th District Erna B Große Neugasse31 +43(0)6.63 92 59 61 ernab.at → p. 46 F Flo Nostalgische Mode Schleifmühlgasse 15 +43(0)1.58 60 773 flovintage.com → p. 27 S Gasthaus Wolf Grosse Neugasse 20 +43(0)1.58 11 544 gasthauswolf.at → p. 53 F

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Pregrenzer Fashion Store Schleifmuhgasse 4 +43(0)1.58 65 758 pregenzer.com → p. 47 S

5th District Elfenkleid Margaretenstr. 39 3-4 +43(0)1.20 85 241 elfenkleid.com → p. 47 S Feine Dinge Margaretenstraße 35 +43(0)1.95 40 918 feinedinge.at → p. 46 S Motto Schonobrunnerstr 30 +43(0)1.58 70 672 11 motto.at → p. 17 N On-Restaurant Wehrgasse 8 +43(0)1.58 54 900 restaurant-on.at → p. 46 F Samstag Shop Margaretenstraße 46/R2 +43(0)6.99 17 095 882 samstag-shop.com → p. 47 S Unikatessen Margaretenstrasse 45/11–12 unikatessen.at → p. 47 S

6th District Café Sperl Gumpendorfer Str. 11 +43(0)1.58 64 158 cafesperl.at → p. 27 F

Disco Volante Gumpendorfer Str. 98 +43(0)6.64 19 525 45 disco-volante.at → p. 10 F Feinkoch Theobaldgasse 14 +43(0)6.99 10 04 57 12 feinkoch.org → p. 43 S Habari Theobaldgasse 16 +43(0)1.58 62 340 habari.at → p. 43 S Kuishimbo Linke Wienzeile 40 +43(0)6.99 11 94 06 73 → p. 28 F Naschmarkt Floridsdorfer Hauptstr.

36/2/12 +43(0)6.60 49 055 61 wienernaschmarkt.eu → p. 17, 23, 28,53, 54 F

O

Restaurant Finkh Esterhazygasse 12 +43(0)1.91 38 992 finkh.at, → p. 28 F Saint Charles Apotheke Gumpendorfer Str. 30 +43(0)1.58 61 363 saint.info → p. 11 S F We Bandits Theobaldgasse 14 +43(0)6.99 19 003 895 webandits.tictail.com → p. 43 S Zum Gschupftn Ferdl Windmühlgasse 20 +43(0)1.96 63 066 zumgschupftnferdl.at → p. 11 F

7th District

10th District

Gastwirtschaft Schilling Burggasse 103 +43(0)1.52 41 775 schilling-wirt.at → p. 43 F

Meixner’s Gasthaus Buchengasse 64 +43(0)1.60 42 710 meixners-gastwirtschaft.at → p. 53 F

Kussmaul Spittelberggasse 12 +43(0)1.58 77 628 5 kussmaul.at → p. 8 F Lena Hoschek Gutenberggasse 17 +43(0)5.03 09 200 shop.lenahoschek.com → p. 43 S Leopold Museumsplatz 1 +43(0)1.52 57 00 leopoldmuseum.org → p. 27 C Mumok Museumsplatz 1 +43(0)1.52 50 00 mumok.at → p. 27 C Park Mondscheingasse 20 +43(0)1.52 64 414 park.co.at → p. 27 S

9th District Grelle Forelle Spittelauer Lände 12 grelleforelle.com → p. 27 N Zum Roten Bären Berggasse 39 +43(0)1.31 76 150 → p. 41 F

Victor-Adler-Markt Viktor-Adler-Markt 3-5 +43(0)1.60 35 306 → p. 54 O

11th District Friedhof der Namenlosen +43(0)6.60 60 03 023 friedhof-der-namenlosen.at, → p. 28 O

12th District Lena Hoschek Trachten Shop Längenfeldgasse 27/7A +43(0)5.03 09 100 shop.lenahoschek.com → p. 43 S

13th District Schloss Schönbrunn Schönbrunner Schloßstraße 47 +43(0)1.81 11 3239 schoenbrunn.at → p. 27 O

14th District Steinhofgründe Baumgartner Höhe 1 +43(0)1.91 06 00 wienkav.at → p. 43 O

16th District

Outskirts

Restaurant Villa Auora Wilhelminenstraße 237 +43(0)1.48 93 333 → p. 43 F

Heuriger spaetrot Wiener straße 1 +43(0)6.64 88 43 90 10 heuriger-spaetrot.com → p. 53 F

17th District Neuwaldegger Bad Promenadegasse 58 +43(0)1.48 62 452 → p. 28 O

19th District Kahlenberg → p. 28 O TBA21 Scherzergasse 1A +43(0)1.513 985 624 tba21.org, → p. 22 C

22nd District Strandbad Gänsehäufel Moissigasse 21 +43(0)1.269 901 60 gaensehaeufel.at → p. 42 O

23rd District Purzl’s Walter Jurmann Gasse 4 +43(0)6.99 17 06 07 02 purzls.at, → p. 53 F Wortruba Kirche Ottillingerplatz 1 +43(0)1.88 86 147 georgenberg.at → p. 7 O

24th District Spaetroth 2352 gumpoldskirchen +43(0)2.252 611 64 spaetrot.com, → p. 53 F

Index

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IMPRINT 38HOURS, Issue No. 5, Vienna Publisher: 36hrs GmbH, Brunnenstr. 191, 10119 Berlin Managing Directors: Joseph Djenandji, Philipp Majcher Editor-in-Chief: Uwe Hasenfuß (ViSdP) Art Direction & Design: NODE Berlin Oslo Editors: Eva Baumgardinger, Marleen Franke, Marc Poggia, Laura Posdziech, Rhiannan Roe Photographers: Lukas Gansterer Contributors: Krista Bursey, Jörg Henning, Werner Sturmberger Printing: Jung Produktion GmbH, Germany Special thanks to: Art Brandom, Jeremy Dean, Angela Greenman, Nhoah Hoena, Johann Hölzel, Michael Leuffen, Nicole Spilker, Mr. Staab, Ulrich Theilmann ISBN 978-3-00-048381-3 38HOURS in is a publication of 36hrs GmbH, Brunnenstr. 191, 10119 Berlin, Germany, www.38hrs.com Inquiries & Distribution: info@38hrs.com

POSTCARDS New York photographer Robert Whitman’s career spans decades and has taken him everywhere, from Punta del Este to Moscow and Myanmar. His lens catches subjects from every walk of life under one humanising gaze BACK COVER Barbra Streisand is the diva of divas. The Brooklynite actress and singer has won every award there is, commands exorbitant ticket prices when she performs, and the effects of her sexual allure are legendary.

One collaborator said working with Babs is “like having a picnic at the end of a runway”