Lostravellers Journal # 004 by Lostravellers

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Lostravellers

Ediroial: Thinking about Bees

2â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Letter From The Editor

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Andreas is laughing, eyes shinning: “It was craz-ce man, so craz-ce.”. His Argentinian accent pulls the ends of the words up and we nod, smiling too but sad none the less. On the thin strip of tarseal that separated manuka from manuka there had been an accident: a swarming hive obliterated by passing car, the queen left injured and in her absence, chaos. Without their leader, the bees panicked and their swarming movement collapsed. Instead of the dynamic searching energy that would eventually lead them to a new hive, the bees organised around their fallen queen in straight lines, militarised boxes of solidarity - as if pay homage to her life. By the time a local had alerted Andreas it was already likely too late. Car after car scythed through the loyal workers, while Andreas organised his gear on the side of the road, resigned to the fact that there was little he could do but witness the fall of the hive, victim to the machines of man.

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Andreas eventually managed to get out to the road, picking the queen up and moving her into a temporary home, hopeful that she might have drawn the surviving bees off the road – but it was too late. She wasn’t dead but her spell had broken, the chemical scents she used to command allegiance gone and with them her power. Andreas was philosophic. “Sometimes, it happen, you know. It’s.. sad, but, the other hive is okay..” He shrugs and smiles. “The ones who survive can go back. Maybe they try again later; maybe not. The hive goes on.”

Last week was the funeral of Adam Tan, a talented Auckland illustrator and cherished friend to many. Like the bees, there was little logic in his death: events conspired, tragedy resulted; there was no need to ask more. What good would it do? I thought of the bees, rudderless and confused. They stood outside the funeral parlour, and I with them, teary eyed and strangely empty. There were no answers – yet still we stood, willing them. I don’t know much about bees. One can only dream of life in that buzzing world, of the forces driving the expansion, the swarming as those who have outgrown their world leave it in search of new lands. I thought of the last bees out on the road, created a dream for them. When the queen left and the numbers dropped, what went through their collective brain? At which stage was the decision made to abandon the dream, to regroup and retreat? Action and reaction, feedback and response - like us, the bees mould to the shape of the world. Sometimes all that remains is to return to the hive. I don’t know much about death – who does? But I know that the feelings it evokes shouldn’t be pushed to the side. In nature’s shifting cycles we all have our hives, and the community that inspires Lostravellers is one of them. Adam is gone, but his art and the community around it remains. This issue is dedicated to Adam and the inspiration he saw in the world – may it inspire some of the same in you.

Lostravellers

Lostraveller Magazine Volume .04

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Cover PhotoLaura Austin

Biking My City: Auckland Page—04

In Conversation with the Artist: Jon Drypnz Page—04 RVCA: Sri Lanka Page—04 We All Have Sins: Hector Sharp Page—04

The Ashram in Alappad: At Home with the Hugging Mother Page—04 Adios from Ze Lostravellers Page—04

Contributors Barney Chunn, Daniel Kelly, Adam Tan, Kyle Boonzaier, Laura Austin, Kurt Tappeiner , Gustav Willeit’s , Andrew Underwood, Karim El Maktafi Anthony Brownson, Cairo Bean, Leigh Barr, Campbell MacDiarmid, Anthony Naulleau Sponsors Barney Chunn, Daniel Kelly, Adam Tan, Kyle Boonzaier, Laura Austin, Kurt Tappeiner , Gustav Willeit’s , Andrew Underwood, Karim El Maktafi Anthony Brownson, Cairo Bean, Leigh Barr, Campbell MacDiarmid, Anthony Naulleau

Re-sustainable living in the Deep South: Mischa Davis Page—04

Book Review Page—04

Best of the web Page—04

Our Open Road Family Page—04

Thinking about Bees Page—04

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Best of the web.

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Re-sustainable living in the Deep South: Mischa Davis “I shot two rolls of Velvia 50 on my Minolta film camera while I was there. I hope you enjoy and are inspired by what I have to share from my time with Nick.”

#01 — Location: Taieri Mouth, New Zealand

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I recently ventured to the depths of the South Island to stay with my dear friend Nick Holmes. Nick is currently living on a one acre Croft, resting a few hundred meters back from a beautiful white sandy beach in the small fishing village of Taieri Mouth. Nick lives here in a tiny 30m2 cottage, without power, internet, or even a flush toilet.

But what he does have are about thirty heritage chickens, ten bee hives, fruit and nut trees and winter vegies, a rocket stove, solar shower and fire bath to top it all off. Not to mention the bounty of kai moana he free dives for on his doorstep. Whatever Nick doesn’t produce himself he gets from Taste Nature, the Dunedin organic shop he works at two days a week. He also swaps his eggs with bread, wild meat and raw milk. You could say Nick’s living the true alternative lifestyle but other than needing to be organized with firewood I found the simple living to be fun, cosy and romantic. It’s a place where cause and effect are more visable, where more human needs are sustainably met from around home, which certainly gets you feeling and thinking things about our current lifestyles in western consumer society. I shot two rolls of Velvia 50 on my Minolta film camera while I was there. I hope you enjoy and are inspired by what I have to share from my time with Nick. 9— — Re-sustainable living in the Deep South: Mischa Davis

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— “You could say Nick’s living the true alternative lifestyle but other than needing to be organized with firewood I found the simple living to be fun, cosy and romantic”. —

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12â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Re-sustainable living in the Deep South: Mischa Davis

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14— — A conversation with Adam Tan

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In Conversation with the Artist: Jon Drypnz

#02 — Location: Nelson Region, New Zealand

Where are you from and what’s your medium? I was born in Portsmouth in the south of England, and currently I don’t really have a specific medium or material I am working with. Maybe indecision is my medium since indecision has helped me with the exploration of materials. But when I work on a wall I use water, usually some sort of industrial / house emulsion or solvent based paint, and occasionally a bit of aerosol. The studio is a whole other story, in the studio I’m working with a range of materials and experimenting often.

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How long have you been painting and what were some of your earliest creative memories/inspirations? I’ve always had some sort of pencil in hand, and I remember making some stuff that was based on underwater scenes at some point. I spent a few of my early years in the Marshall Islands and a few islands in the Caribbean, I was constantly in the water and the drawings I was — In Conversation with the Artist: Jon Drypnz

doing for what felt like a long time were scenes of elaborate fish narratives. I’ve been in my own world from the beginning. Your style is wildly unique, where has this particular running man design come from? The running man in particular came about from observing how we walk/run in Wellington and ideas of repetition, the speed of everyday life. The image has now tuned into an icon I can be identified with, at least in Wellington, New Zealand. I found that a lot of people could identify with a figure in that mid stride motion. It has made me realize, or reminded me that I can take it easy and enjoy the process a bit more instead of rushing around, taking it back to island time. What’s the attraction for you? In saying that I’ve enjoyed slowing down I still have the urge to keep a steady push on doing projects that challenge me, take me out of my

Lostravellers

— “I love the wall painting aspect, as it’s been able to remain under the radar but continue to have some talented people active for all the right reasons ..” — comfort zone, this would explain the constant experimentation with different mediums. And that would/could also explain the continued attraction to do the work I’m currently doing. The attraction to create an image as an identifying icon starts at the beginning of time with the want or need to be known or recognized, a search for some sort of notoriety. Where do you source inspiration? To simplify things, my everyday is what inspires me. Where are you currently based? Currently I’m not really based anywhere but, I’m spending some time in the Nelson Region developing new works for a redefining – defining show for September. So if I was to say I was based anywhere it would say, ‘I’m based inside my own head’. What is an average day for Drypnz? In the mornings I’m currently curing some olives, getting them ready to pickle (rosemary, garlic, olive oil) for nourishment at this show in September. Then its about 8am and heading to the studio to play with my pencils and paints, wax and cooker, saw and scrap hardwoods/ pallets, and every now and then I’ll treat myself to a wall. The average days have been treating me well lately.

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How long were/have you been in Wellington and what are your thoughts on the cultural scene down under? When I was based in Wellington it ended up being 7 years, so not too long. I finished a degree and built a small name for myself, but

It seems you have done some extensive travel, where have you been while on the road with your paint brush? I’ve been to a few places, most recently I was doing a round of Europe, visited a few cites in Germany, a little town in the south of Poland called Jelenia Gora, a few towns in Italy, and enjoyed exploring parts Croatia, Sweden, England, Scotland, France, The Netherlands, but not much was done when there. We spent some time in Cambodia and Lao, and Thailand on that last trip. There have been a few other places prior but I didn’t really add anything that substantial to walls, it was in the doodle days. What have been some of the most exciting/ near death experience you have had behind the paintbrush? I never have any great stories or near death experiences, I have been lucky to get off on the up side of situations, but there is one funny story of painting in a drain out in the Melbourne suburbs with a two others. These two kids come down >>

— In Conversation with the Artist: Jon Drypnz

then left when it just started getting pretty good. There is a healthy and growing cultural / creative scene in Wellington, and it seems to be a really well rounded. There’s people organizing and producing great sound and visual stuff and some amazing performance artists being proactive, making it a good city to be inspired by. I love the wall painting aspect, as it’s been able to remain under the radar but continue to have some talented people active for all the right reasons. Hopefully it will continue to flourish, but lets hope it doesn’t turn into anything that already exists.

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Lostravellers

— “I never have any great stories or near death experiences, I have been lucky to get off on the up side of situations, but there is one funny story of painting in a drain..” —

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telling us we are the ones who write some name or other and that we have been going over their stuff, we shug, say ‘naw mate, sorry’, and they leave. Five minutes later they come back down with a hammer and baton. They start yelling at us a bit more, they then ignore the other two, I guess because one is a burly ginger guy who looks like he should be the one with the hammer, the other, a woman who just stands there laughing at them. I’m standing there looking weak and wondering what they are trying to tell us, so they decide I am — In Conversation with the Artist: Jon Drypnz

the one to take their frustration out on. I get a hammer and baton swung at me a few times, so I just lean over with my arms in the air over my head, too hung over to try and fight. They stop quite quickly, seeing that I’m not in the mood to fight and probably after realizing I might not be the guy since the others are saying I’m from New Zealand. Those good times in drains.

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Where can we find more of you?

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Lostravellers

The Roving Rump: 16 hours in Guangzhou

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24— — The Roving Rump: 16 hours in Guangzhou

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25— — The Roving Rump: 16 hours in Guangzhou

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Lostravellers

We All Have Sins: Hector Sharp

We all have sins, so I strip down and step into the water. The cold grips my ankles like shackles of brittle iron and the only way to break free is to propel my body into the murky depths of Lake Gosaikunda. This lake holds a special significance for Nepal’s Hindu and Buddhist sects; it is said that one dip is enough to cleanse a lifetime of sin. And so each year thousands make the pilgrimage high into the Himalaya for their once in a lifetime bath in Gosaikunda’s holy waters. Then there is me, the only pale face in a sea of tanned bodies. I pitch my tent along with hundreds of others on the shores of the lake. Yak dung stoves belch out thick smoke into the air as the sun dips below the snow covered mountains. The cold is piercing at this altitude and Tibetan rice wine seems to be the chosen method of warming; from the inside out. The Mountain Sherpa people mix with the Lowlanders, farmers and city dwellers, Buddhist and Hindu come together as they dance around an old shrine covered in religious paraphernalia.

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Songs fill the air and soon are joined by the shuffling feet of Sherpa traditional dancing. Elation is worn on the faces of each person there, including myself. The deep red sari’s of the Hindu women shine beautifully with their sequin buttons complimented by the jewel filled jackets and colourful robes worn by the Sherpa women. I observe the two cultures, starkly different, amalgamating as they link their arms in dance, sharing wine and indulging in happiness. Videnda is often a word used to describe what is to be observed in life. It’s an experience, an interaction, a view or a moment. Yet there are few times in a traveller’s journey where he or she is totally removed from anything that resembles life — We All Have Sins: Hector Sharp

#01 — Location: Lake Gosaikunda, Nepal

back home. A moment where you stop, look around and think; “am I really seeing this?” Sadly I never appreciated another culture as much as I did right then. My world, my reality, faded into the surrounding darkness. I had spent the past year chasing these moments and they never come easy. But they do come, when searched for. This particular journey started in a bar, as most good stories do. I was in Kathmandu, when I overheard a couple talking of a festival where Hindu and Buddhist come together in religious fever. I strained my ear to learn that not only was it a rare mixed religious festival but it took place at a mountain lake high up in the Himalaya.

— “This particular journey started in a bar, as most good stories do” — All travellers know that one tale, so obscure that its almost myth; its elusive beauty captivates our interest. I was hooked; right then and there I knew I had to see this festival. A week later I stand gasping for breath at 4300m above sea level. To my left lie the vast Langtang Ranges that make up the eastern Himalaya but to my right I look out over a seething crowd of almost naked pilgrims that stretched along the shores of Lake Gosaikunda. Three days of arduous trekking through stunning scenery bear fruit before my tired eyes. Hidden by sky piercing mountains and perilous goat’s tracks its secrecy is its gift, Gosaikunda’s has kept foreigners at bay and I couldn’t help feeling guilty that I had drawn a curtain on a hidden beauty of the Himalaya. This was the moment I could stop searching, I had found Videnda.

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Intro needed.

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Location: Van, South America Raising a child IS an adventure with or without adding travel to the equation. Colette, nicknamed “the ambassador of love & joy” is an instant barrier-breaker. When stern-looking cops wave us over to inspect our travel documents, their faces quickly melt into friendly smiles when spotting the happy ‘gringita.’ Having traveled as a couple for nearly a decade, traveling as a family is a wonderful experience that we heartily recommend.

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a r t Lostravellers

First, let’s start with a little context. Can you tell our readers who you are, what you’re up to, and how long you’ve been doing it? We are Adam, Emily & Colette Harteau- a family of three, soon to be four- traveling from California through the Americas in our VW Westfalia van. What started as a 1-year venture has turned into life on the open road.

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What inspired you to set off on this journey? Adam & I have always enjoyed traveling together, trying to take 1 major trip every year, and it always felt like it was too soon when we had to come home… We always talked and dreamed of sailing around the world, or planning a RTW trip choosing a few key destinations to explore in the years time. When we got our Westfalia in 2003 our eyes opened to the possibilities of overland travel; in 2007 we took a trip around the US and Canada, which whet our appetites. When a project that would have put us in India and Nepal for 6+ months fell through, we knew the time had come for us to plan our own grand voyage. We planned for a year before it all came to fruition. Living a life on the road is sure to involve some — Our Open Road Family

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challenges - are there any that you’d like to share with us? What have been your biggest hurdles? Most recently, we have had a string of major motor issues. We blew a motor which mysteriously developed a crack on the block, the replacement motor threw a rod 122 miles after the overhaul & re-instillation, the third motor blew up another 800 miles later and we are currently on motor #4- praying for a long and happy time together. Are there any specific highlights that stand out from your time? Any incredible people you’ve met, or stories you’ve heard, where you just thought - wow? We could be here for days telling tales of folks we have crossed paths with… tales of woe, perseverance, insight, inspiration, frustrations and everything in between… a perma-frying acid chemist, intrepid travelers from every walk of life, born-again international convicts, humble artisans pursuing their crafts.

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Raising a child on the road is a fantastic addition to add to an adventure, what have been the most rewarding thing about traveling as a family? Raising a child IS an adventure with or without adding travel to the equation. Colette, nicknamed “the ambassador of love & joy” is an instant barrier-breaker. When sternlooking cops wave us over to inspect our travel documents, their faces quickly melt into friendly smiles when spotting the happy ‘gringita.’ Having traveled as a couple for nearly a decade, traveling as a family is a wonderful experience that we heartily recommend.

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It must be incredibly liberating to be masters of your own destiny, as it were. Being so free, how have you changed as individuals, parents and travelers? Both Adam & I feel like this trip is an extension of who we were and remain, not a soulsearching journey to discover ourselves. It has allowed us to foster the qualities intrinsic to prospering on a journey such as this- like flexibility, openness, & intrepidness. — Our Open Road Family

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“Rather than pursuing traditional standards of capitalist success, we choose to dedicate our time to being together.”

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I feel this ‘on the road lifestyle’ is becoming more popular as peoples turn more towards memories over money, exiting the rat race and really enjoying the world in a more organic way. Was this the reason you began or has that idea formed since beginning? Absolutely! Rather than pursuing traditional standards of capitalist success, we choose to dedicate our time to being together as a family, exploring our arts, adventuring around this wonderful world we live in, while living simply and passionately. Can you see more people choosing a similar lifestyle in the future? What do you think are the barriers to this? Financial stress is the biggest factor to choosing to or not to transition into a life on the road. Some people think they could never- which will be true if they think that way. The key is making up your mind, and funneling all time and energy into that end goal. Once you understand that $10 sandwich is 50 miles worth of gas or 3 days worth of groceries, it becomes much easier to stockpile funds that could have easily been spent on ‘necessities.’

How would you define a lostraveller? A Lostraveller allows oneself to get lost in the travel, to absorb it as it is, not try to make it what they want. I think an element of that is actually turning off the modern static noise that keeps us connected to the place from which we have traveled, so taking time ‘off the grid’ without all the modern trappings is essential. Find more of the Open Road Family on: Website: http://ouropenroad.com/ Instagram: @ouropenroad Facebook: @ouropen.road

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Book Review —

“First, let’s start with a little context. a few key destinations to explore in the years time.”

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Cairo Bean —

few key destinations to explore in the years time. When we got our Westfalia in 2003 our eyes opened to the possibilities of overland travel; in 2007 we took a trip around the US and Canada, which whet our appetites. When a project that would have put us in India and Nepal for 6+ months fell through, we knew the time had come for us to plan our own grand voyage. We planned for a year before it all came to fruition.

Cairo Bean —

— Book Review

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Cycling World Tour: Auckland, New Zealand

“First, let’s start with a little context. a few key destinations to explore in the years time. When we got our Westfalia in 2 whet our appetites. When a project that would have put us in India and Nepal for 6+ months fell through, we knew the time had come for us to plan our own grand voyage.”

#01 — Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Issac Profession: Student — What do you do? I’m studying for a grad dip in geology at the University of Auckland. What type of bike do you have? Salsa A La Carte. Where are you from? I’m from Wellington originally, I’ve been living in Auckland for the last 6 months. What relationship do cyclists play in your city? Auckland doesn’t have the best cycling infrastructure, so I think it’s inevitable that there is going to be a bit of a mixed relationship with cyclists. There’s definitely a growing sentiment in support of cycling, and more and more people are getting into it, but you still don’t see the same respect for riders as in some other cities. I think it’s moving in the right direction though.

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Why do you ride? For me it’s mostly about the fun. For sure it’s a practical way to get around the city too, but nothing beats the buzz you get battling the traffic, or just cruising around with mates on a sunny afternoon. It’s also got to be the best way to get to know a new city, I love just heading out with no destination in mind and seeing where I end up.

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[1] Issac with Salsa A La Carte 43— — Bike Lifers: Auckland City

Lostravellers

Mel Profession: Student — What do you do? I’m studying for a grad dip in geology at the University of Auckland. What type of bike do you have? Salsa A La Carte. Where are you from? I’m from Wellington originally, I’ve been living in Auckland for the last 6 months. What relationship do cyclists play in your city? Auckland doesn’t have the best cycling infrastructure, so I think it’s inevitable that there is going to be a bit of a mixed relationship with cyclists. There’s definitely a growing sentiment in support of cycling, and more and more people are getting into it, but you still don’t see the same respect for riders as in some other cities. I think it’s moving in the right direction though. Why do you ride? For me it’s mostly about the fun. For sure it’s a practical way to get around the city too, but nothing beats the buzz you get battling the traffic, or just cruising around with mates on a sunny afternoon. It’s also got to be the best way to get to know a new city, I love just heading out with no destination in mind and seeing where I end up.

[1] Issac with Salsa A La Carte 44— — Bike Lifers: Auckland

#01 — Location: Auckland, New Zealand

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Hugo Profession: Student — What do you do? I’m studying for a grad dip in geology at the University of Auckland. What type of bike do you have? Salsa A La Carte. Where are you from? I’m from Wellington originally, I’ve been living in Auckland for the last 6 months. What relationship do cyclists play in your city? Auckland doesn’t have the best cycling infrastructure, so I think it’s inevitable that there is going to be a bit of a mixed relationship with cyclists. There’s definitely a growing sentiment in support of cycling, and more and more people are getting into it, but you still don’t see the same respect for riders as in some other cities. I think it’s moving in the right direction though. Why do you ride? For me it’s mostly about the fun. For sure it’s a practical way to get around the city too, but nothing beats the buzz you get battling the traffic, or just cruising around with mates on a sunny afternoon. It’s also got to be the best way to get to know a new city, I love just heading out with no destination in mind and seeing where I end up.

[1] Issac with Salsa A La Carte 45— — Bike Lifers: Auckland

#01 — Location: Auckland,

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Catherine Profession: Artist — What do you do? I am primarily an artist, but I also a yoga “teacher” and sometimes builder (mostly ex builder). What type of bike do you have? I have a Reid vintage style bike Where are you from? From Auckland now I guess- live at Pihabut originally from the same town as the hobbits. What relationship do cyclists play in your city? Cyclists play a minor part in this city- it is not a cycle friendly city really- but deserve to have a bigger and better part in city life. More cycle friendly lanes, wider roads would be nice. Its a nice city to use a bike in summer. Why do you ride? It’s been a while since I did much riding, since moving to Piha a bike has not worked well for me. I had a cool bike I bought in India and used whilst there, a classic old style made in india bike, but had to leave it behind. Bought this old style bike that I now have new on line and keep it at my workplace in the city, to use as my errand

#01 — Location: Auckland, New Zealand

[1] Issac with Salsa A La Carte 46— — Bike Lifers: Auckland

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Peter Profession: Artist — What do you do? I am primarily an artist, but I also a yoga “teacher” and sometimes builder (mostly ex builder). What type of bike do you have? I have a Reid vintage style bike Where are you from? From Auckland now I guess- live at Piha- but originally from the same town as the hobbits. What relationship do cyclists play in your city? Cyclists play a minor part in this city- it is not a cycle friendly city really- but deserve to have a bigger and better part in city life. More cycle friendly lanes, wider roads would be nice. Its a nice city to use a bike in summer. Why do you ride? It’s been a while since I did much riding, since moving to Piha a bike has not worked well for me. I had a cool bike I bought in India and used whilst there, a classic old style made in india bike, but had to leave it behind. Bought

Dank Alley Profession: Master Blazer Time: 11.05 Am — time had come for us to plan our own grand voyage. We planned for a year before it all came to fruition.

[1] Peter with Reid vintage style bike 47— — Bike Lifers: Auckland

Lostravellers

The Ashram in Alappad: At Home with the Hugging Mother

“Do not think you will necessarily be aware of your own enlightenment.” - Dogen-Zenji

The grinding whirr of the motor cut out and our little ferry coasted into the wharf. It was hot – it was always hot in India - and the nausea was playing havoc with my stomach. I stood up and my t-shirt stuck to the seat, a small groan escaping as my mind caught up with the clumsy movement of my body. I guess it didn’t matter that we hadn’t showered now. India’s smells were pungent and plentiful, and ours were static - lost in the roaring noise of another day. The boat pulled away and we headed for the bridge. Across the river stood the only building for miles and our destination: the ashram of Amma, or, as she is known to her thousands of devotees, the hugging mother. The compound towered above the palm trees, and it was with some trepidation that we approached its imposing mass.

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I can’t remember where I first heard about Amma, but we hadn’t been in Kerala for long before her face was popping up all over the show: posters on walls, murals and the inevitable namecheck in Lonely Planet. We’d mention her name to the various local who would stop to talk to us and they’d smile. “Oh yes [head waggle]. Oh yes. Amma is very nice [more head waggling] - you must visit.” Amma is called ‘the hugging saint’ for the unique form her darshan or blessing takes – and by all accounts she is very nice. Stories of Amma’s childhood highlight hours spent in meditation and her selfless devotion to — The Ashram in Alappad: At Home with the Hugging Mother

alleviating the suffering of others. Despite the traditional role of women in India and her parent’s attempts to marry her, Amma resisted and remained committed to her altruism – establishing the Mata Amritanandamayi Math foundation in 1981, and extending her programs internationally in 1987. She now stages overnight events all over the world, hugging literally thousands of followers in nonstop odysseys of devotion that often see her go without food or sleep for several days. I like a good hug as much as the next man, but we were there on a whim and it had been a rough start to the morning: the previous day’s discovery of a corner store selling weed backed up by a late night out drinking and the inevitable early morning taxi to the train where we stood like sardines, unsure of the stop that would take us to Kollam and on to the ferry towards Alappad. The heat did nothing for our hangovers and Benn swore as he caught his sandal on a step. Was this a big mistake? I was averse to religion at the best of times, but it was unavoidable in India – and so only seemed apt that we visit at least one ashram. If the Beatles had done it, so could we; although I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little sceptical. As chance (and our laissez-faire organization) would have it, Amma wasn’t there and the entrance to the compound was quiet. A group

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#01 — Location: Auckland, New Zealand

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of men in white lungis dug a trench in the shadow of the temple and in the distance a robed Westerner walked by. We were informed that Amma was in Berlin as part of her European tour (of course..) and directed to reception for registration. We had planned to stay one night and, after a brief explanation of how things worked, were given keys to our accommodation: a shared room on the fourth floor. The beds were thin swabs on rusty bunks, and we shared our basic toilet and shower with two absent others. A large poster of Jesus hung next to one of the bunks and there were rosary beads on his pillow. What had we gotten ourselves into? With half an hour until the orientation tour began we went for a walk around the complex, uneasy with thoughts of spiked kool aid and unrepentant dogma. The ashram compound consisted of one immense tower block and a series of smaller buildings congregated around a central temple, with a large corrugated barn structure behind providing space for the extended services

conducted when Amma was there. There was a pool, several canteens and large gardens where her followers worked to help pay their way. We encountered a mix of Indian and international devotees, mostly clothed in your stereotypic white robes and flowing beards. The place initially felt a bit strange and evoked the usual cult scepticism you would expect from two hungover atheists trying (loosely) to be objective. But, despite these initial feelings and the nagging question of what pragmatic purpose being a devotee serves, we were won over by the informative tour and run down of the admirable humanitarian work Amma’s charity, “Embracing the World”, does. In contrast to other religious institutions (naming no names) there was no hard sell and no pressure in any form to join the movement or conform beyond the usual courtesy expected when visiting a place as a guest. Who knows if all ashrams are as open minded, but it was a refreshing change from the usual evangelicalism. We sat and listened to the songs praising Amma and god, zoning out with the chanting in the open warehouse that houses the larger gatherings. When this was done we queued with the other devotees for a free meal of rice and watery curry, washing our tin plates in the troughs set up for this after. Even in Amma’s absence there was still a considerable presence of followers, although we were told that this was nothing compared to the chaos when she was there. With a ban on smoking and drinking we had little to do, so went along to the evening’s class in the older and smaller prayer hall. The lecture focused on explaining a segment of Krishna’s

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famous book, the Bhagavad Gita, and was part of an ongoing series for those studying there. The lecturer, a young Indian man, sat behind a small lectern and told us that every action makes karmic impressions on your sub-conscious mind, that we need to remove the ego in order to avoid this, that there is both conscious and inert thought, and that one can become a karmic yogi by learning to separate these two and thus endure the trials that can otherwise consume us. Time has taken any other details - and while I would have definitely benefited from more background on Hinduism, there was a satisfying self-evidence to the teachings. In many ways, they reflected what I had learnt in the course of my travels, and I wondered if there wasn’t more crossover than people assumed. In the way we did it, travel, like spiritual devotion, served to make you aware – sometimes painfully so – of your own insignificance and impotence. It’s hard to be egotistic when you’ve just missed your train, no-one speaks English (or cares to listen to your troubles) and there isn’t another one for three days. In absence of control you are forced to re-evaluate your role - and so it goes: patience born of necessity and no other option. It was an unpleasant night’s sleep on the hard bunks and my failure to bring a mosquito net saw me offered up as the easiest meal the local population had ever had. I woke early to the sound of

“It was an unpleasant night’s sleep on the hard bunks and my failure to bring a mosquito net saw me offered up as the easiest meal the local population had ever had”.

the morning prayers, feeling like I had barely slept. Benn too had fallen victim to the open windows and hungry mozzies, and it was with anything but transcendent grace that we packed our bags. Following breakfast we were co-opted into unloading thousands of pamphlets from the back of a truck into a dark room. This was the beating heart of Amma’s propaganda machine: an ancient printing press consumed the space and the sharp smell of ink hung in the air. We were organised into a human chain, and passed stacks on stacks of pamplets along the line - to where, I didn’t know. Our lack of sleep and lingering unease fostered resentment, but there was no escape. We were there, and expected to play our part - that was what family did, after all. My mind wandered as my hands worked and I soon fell into the easy rhythm of left to right, feeling the strain in my arms, smiling at the man to my left, grinning at Benn on my right. Perhaps this was how they got you, a week of pamphlets - then bam: white beard, flowing robes, and the glazed eyes of the eternally content... but we would never know. Our time had come; the last pamphlets left my hands, and the chain dissolved. We said goodbye to our fellow links and prepared to leave, a brief stop off at the top of the main tower to flout their “no photography” rules then out the gates, back to the outside world and its acceptance of our narcotic imbibing tendencies. As the ferry pulled away I found myself deep in thought. We had entered the ashram so critical of what it might contain, full of judgement based on conjecture and what was, in reality, something we knew nothing of.

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What was to be made of this strange meeting of cultures deep in the midst of Kerala’s backwaters? It wasn’t our place to say. There were many roads to enlightenment, and few where the sun shone. The words of the Buddhist teacher Dōgen-Zenji span in my skull. In the dark depths of that printing room, had I seen god?

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What it means to be a Lostraveller R

R R

[The Lostraveller]

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Adios from Lostravellers

Mucho love, Kyle Boonzaier Barney Chunn Daniel Kelly

—01 Keep the peace Lostravellers!

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