PORTFOLIO
LOTTE TIMMER AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUTE FASHION AND MANAGEMENT 2017
INDEX - Who am I? Semester 1 - The prototype - Inspirationbook - Style Research Semester 2 - Concept phase - Design phase - Production phase - Financial phase Personal work - Fortunate sons - Photography
WHO AM I? My name is Lotte Timmer, 20 years old and born in Roermond, Netherlands. Currently living in Amsterdam, city of my dreams, and exploring the world of fashion. Developing myself at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, studying Fashion and Management. Why is fashion my future and passion? I’ve always been interested in fashion and especially the development of it. Reading interviews of new development techniques and innovation of pieces of clothing are things that I love to do. For about 5-6 years I modelled, and this was for me also a way to taste the industry and see how products get sold by using a showroom and clients such as Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman etc. For a long amount of time I was working as a model, at Dries van Noten and I could have a close look on the way he was designing a collection and the development of pieces of clothing during the production phase. AMFI was always a dream, but by seeing more of the industry and the grow of my confidence I was finally ready to make the next step and apply, succesfully.
Next the work I do for AMFI, I love to read books such as Vestoj to develop my vision on fashion and stay up to date of new developments. Styling is a passion I created during the years. I love to experiment with this and create new perspectives on looks. Music is a big inspiration source for me, listening to sounds and lyrics gives you a mood which for me always works by persuing a project. Any project. On the next pages, there is a selection of work I made during AMFI but also next to AMFI. Any feedback is always welcome, keeps me growing as a person but also as a professional.
THE PROTOTYPE The first assignment during the first semester of AMFI, was prototype. The goal of the assignment is to gain knowledge on a 3 dimensial object and knowledge of the industry and the market. The brief: Make an experimental article of clothing by draping a piece of flat fabric directly on the body, so that the torso is covered. This means that a 2-dimensional piece of fabric has to be turned into a 3-dimensional form that a direct relationship with the forms and functions of the body. The final prototype is a personal and inspiring statement and must be based on one of the 3 Fashion Segments: Streetwear, Sportswear of Workwear. The student must also keep track of the overall costs of the process. The design experiment must meet the following requirements: The silhouette must be created by: - concealing the body - exaggerating volumes - working close against the body - symmetrisch-asymmetrisch The prototype must cover the torso. Account must be taken of the wear-ability of the garment and of body movement. Work must be done at 1/2 scale and then scaled up to full size. Account must be taken of proportions. Account must be taken of design and form aspects in relation to material proporties and constructions techniques. Clarification of the prototype: Workwear is the fashion segment where the dress is inspired on, espcially the Dutch Army, this is used as the main inspiration. The fabric choice went out to Percal. This is a firm fabric but not too thick. Though, it is stive enough to let the pleats stand on their own and gives it more a balloon look. This project gave me the opportunity to look to the body/torso and designing a dress. The main technique used in this dress is pleats. The pleats are based at the front and the rear of the dress. I used press-buttons at the back of the dress, in order to make it easy to open and close, as well that is communicates with the tough look of the army. I added technical drawings, seen the fact that this is the main development of myself during the project.
INSPIRATION BOOK Assignment number two, inspiration book. The brief: You’re creating a inspirational book where a vision of fashion comes forward. You’ll use pictures that you can find online as well as offline (60%). Your orientation is mainly contemporary, where non-contemporary imagery is placed in renewing context. The final composition of image, text and material has a strong link to fashion or the fashion industry. Think of developments in the area of design, of industry, and in the area of everything to do with identity and communication. The book consists of your choices. The content is by the choices inspiring and surprising. Eventually you choose about 35 pictures and 10 texts including a selection of own work. These selections are made into different chapters, which are intuitively and consciously composed. Each chapter includes a very brief inspirational introduction. Each image is supported with a short caption about why it’s inspiring. Included is, as often as possible, some background info / intention of the maker / designer / artist etc. For articles give a brief description of what it is about and why it is inspiring. Two chapters of my inspiration book: I have made a combination of two chapters, the first chapter is based on out of the comfort zone. This is for everybody different and is an on-going process. After seeing a couple of pictures that are shocking to you the other one becomes less shocking, because of the one you’ve seen before. The world is changing on this aspect as well. There is more tolerance for subjects and approaches are wider and more open-minded. After this first chapter I decided to make another chapter, which is called: In the comfort zone. This is a chapter contains less shocking pictures and gives you a sweeter feeling. There is more recognition in it. Therefore the first book cover, out of the comfort zone, has a latex cover. A more fetisj inspired cover, at least the connection with this fabric is often a fetisj way. The other chapter as a velours cover, gives you a soft touch and sweeter feeling.
STYLE RESEARCH The brief: Research the different styles of a typical Amsterdam neighbourhood, both historical and actual, locality. Translate this into a styleconcept for 2017. During this project you will work in a group of 4-6 persons and you’ll research the neighbourhood, which is pointed out to you. This will take place is week 1 and 2. After this, you’ll translate this into an individual styleconcept. Research the historical building structures as well as the tribes in a neighbourhood. Think about the architecture, people, culture, Zeitgeist, music, community, religion etc. The next step when analyzing the neighbourhood is to think about: - what kind of style characteristic are visible? - where are they coming from and what do they look like? - what is the core of these styles? - is there a relation between the different outing of styles? - is there a relation between the different styles, current fashion, community and trends in a neighbourhood? After the conducted research you start to make collages and find resemblances in visuals and defining this into a new style concept. You’ll define core values of a neighbourhood and start clashing these core values with eachother to develop a new style concept in the form of a poster. The neighbourhood where I conducted research on is the Plantage buurt in the east of Amsterdam. The architecture in this neighbourhood is very stately and the residents can be placed in a higher segment, highly educated and higher than avarage earnings. In this new style concept I clashed the stately buildings with the actual museum culture of Artis. There were good resemblence visible in the plants that are shown in Artis as well as the buildings. When looking to the core values of the buildings and the plants, a firm repetition in structure is visible. Construction and man made buildings as well as oppertunities to let tropical plants grown in a zoo.
PLEATED LINE STRUCTURE
CONSTRUCTION
REPETITION
ILLUSION
BY FOSSIL. The Fossil project can be seen as a long term project divided in four phases. Starting of with the concept phase. The central theme of these four phases is the development of a collection, a basis clothing package, for a brand that, until now, has had no clothing in his brand portfolio. This collection should be developed in accordance with the findings of research in to the brand identity. A number of these garments must be fully developed into finished products: a sample. You will make tech packs and an overview of costs. CONCEPT PHASE: You’ll deliver a concept pitch in which the basis for the development of a new clothing colelction for a brand that has no clothing in its product line is discussed. The report and presentation should show what impact/implications the research will have on the client, the brand and the brand concept. You will work with 2-3 students in a proejct group and research the possibilities for new clothing for the brand. In my case this is Fossil. This is a preview of the mood and style in relation to the brand identity. During this concept phase we examined the brand and came with four core values of the current brand to base the collection on: American Heritage, Diverisity, Quality, Accesibility. To develop a new fashion brand we first looked into our perfect customer by making a customer profile. To do this, we first looked at what kind of customer we want, but also sketching his/her day and make a profile: what’s in his/her backpack. We researched the current brand by looking at his main competitors and the position we would like the place the new brand in. We chose a new target group between 25-35 years old. The target group is searching for sustainability in clothes and is conscious about the environment and his life. 4 characteristics about the collection will be: Functional, big pockets, loose fit and a recognizable brand tag on every item. The disposable income of the target group will be around 1000 euros. Prices of the collection will lay between 50 and 200 euros because of the use of sustainable materials and will be middle class segment. After this phase two concepts will be put together into a new one.
MERKWAARDEN: ORGINELE MERK
AMERICAN HERITAGE:
FOSSIL IS OPGERICHT IN TEXAS EN GRIJPT TERUG NAAR AMERICAN/VINTAGE DESIGNS. WAT OOK TERUG TE ZIEN IS IN WEBSITE, PRODUCTEN & FILOSOFIE.
DIVERSITEIT: DOOR HET VEELZIJDIGE AANBOD VAN PRODUCTEN SPREEKT FOSSIL EEN BREDE DOELGROEP AAN VAN 16-60 JAAR.
AMER HERIT
Teruggrijpe periode me gevoel een a voor kwalit
FOSSIL KWALITEIT: GOEDE PRIJS-KWALITEITS VERHOUDING.
TOEGANKELIJK:
IN PRIJS, DOELGROEP & PRODUCT AANBOD.
COLLECTIONBOOK: BY FOSSIL. SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
PRODUCT
PRIJS
- Middle class segment - Prijs tussen de €50-€200,- Duurzame materialen - Prijsklasse van People’s Avenue, American Apparel en People Tree
- UNISEX - Comfortabel - Draagbaar - Functioneel - Vintage touch - Sustainable - Loose fit - Brandtag op elk item
FOSSIL PROMOTIE - Social media - Aparte website - Doorverwijzing via Fossil website - Reclamecampagne abri’s in en rond grote steden Nederland - Samenwerkingen met lokale koffietenten in Amsterdam, bijvoorbeeld Toki
4 P’s
PLAATS
- Mobiele pop-up container - Reizend door Nederland - Evenementen - Kleine samenvattende collectie in huidige Fossil winkels - Aparte winkels
BY FOSSIL. DESIGN PHASE: Collection plan and presentation: The brief: Once you have convinced the brand management of the possibilities, the group will be merged. The new group, 5 students, will develop this collection further. This phase provides a professional proposal for the customer in the form of a collection plan. In the presentation you will convince the brand representatives of the potential for the new collection. You will present the colelction and indicate the quantities, sizes and garments you will produce, taking into account sustainability. By using moodboards you will show and motivate your choice for the brand’s collection. You should indicate what colours, fabrics and trimmings are to be used. Style sheets, should be created in Illustrator. In addition you should show which knits and basics you will use in order to complete the collection. As soon as the groups were merged and feedback was received during the concept phase, we started to finish off the concept. We took off with the concept that we developed which you can see on the previous page. We changed the target group since this target group is already used by several groups. The new target group is a working mom from 35-50 years old, a busy woman who is switching life between kids and work. The new core values became: American Heritage, Accesibility and Functionality. The new elements of the collection are oversized and adjustable. We did research to our client, sketched a new customer profile and developed a moodboard of her favorite products, reads, stores she visits etc. We narrowed down the competitors and came to two new main competitors: Hope Fashion and Oska. Two sustainable brands, Hope that has unisex collections and Oska that has just women’s wear. The mood of the collection is based on the American Heritage core value. We found traditional elements of cowboys from Texas and shown this in visuals. The mood for the Spring/Summer ‘18 collection is called Desert Raven. To combine the elements of an average day of the target group, we added to almost every piece of clothing an element in order to be able to adjust the piece. From shortening dresses, when bringing kids to school, to adjusting the length of sleeves when doing dishes. Colours were inspired by the moodboard, which are mainly shades of nature. Trims, like pipings, give it a tougher look with a wink to the western mood.
MERKWAARDEN: NIEUW FASHION CONCEPT TOEGANKELIJK:
Toegankelijk in prijs, kledingaanbod en transparantie in het productieproces. Plaats van verkoop zo toegankelijk mogelijk.
AMERICAN HERITAGE:
Teruggrijpen naar een periode met een retro gevoel en aandacht voor kwaliteit.
BY
FUNCTIONEEL:
FOSSIL.
Een kledingstuk dat op verschillende manieren aangepast kan worden en daardoor voor verschillende gelegenheden geschikt is.
COLLECTIONBOOK: BY FOSSIL. SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
5
DESERT RAVEN S/S ’18
COLLECTION OVERVIEW TOPS
Western singlet “Buck” €70,Light weight dotted cotton
Button overlay dress “Karli” Graslinnen
Adjustable sleeves top “Keith” €110,Light weight dotted cotton
€165,-
Adjustable dress “Kansas” Kraanoog 1.
Waist trimmed parka “Buck” Light weight cotton
€135,-
€275,-
Western shirt “Koko” €140,Graslinnen & Kraanoog 2.
COLLECTIONBOOK: BY FOSSIL. SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
COLLECTION OVERVIEW BOTTOMS
Folded legs pants “Dawn” €175,Light weight stretch denim
High waisted short “Dusk” €110,Light weight stretch denim
Western midi A-line skirt “Daisey” €110,Kraanoog 2.
High waisted belted pants “Django” €150,Kraanoog 2.
Wrapped midi skirt “Dalla” €125,Graslinnen & kraanoog 2.
COLLECTIONBOOK: BY FOSSIL. SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
15
BY FOSSIL. PRODUCTION PHASE: Production of the sample and techpack. The brief: For the collection, you will make a Tech Pack, in which the developed garment, the Sample, is fully documented. From this Tech Pack, a Production company must be able to produce the garments according to the standards and criteria and in the proper distribution of sizes and colours. Because production takes place abroad you will hace to write the Tech Pack in English. You will have to produce your chosen sample industrially, with the right processing seams and types of stitch. This must also be shown in the Tech Pack. The Tech Pack includes the following components: - Technical drawing - Bill of Materials - Sequence of Operations with work description - Cost of the CMT For the sample I decided to produce the designed pants in the collection. This was my own design, but for production a couple of adjustments were made to improve the fit and look of the pants.
TECHNICAL
DRAWING
BY
FOSSIL.
High waisted straight leg pants Frabric composition: 65% CO, 35% PES Design: By Fossil.
3
ginning of d, ending
GRADING Description:
SHEET
The high waisted pants, shown on the image on the right side, is designed by, By Fossil. The fit of the pants, is high waisted and has a straight leg. The fabric composition, is a mix of 65% biological cotton, mixed with 25% polyester to give the fabric a light shimmer. The fabric is middle weighted, not heavy and not light, but a wearable item in a season such as spring/summer.
BY
FOSSIL.
Django, will be available in two colour ways. The first colour: Camel BF07 and the second colour: Oasis Blue BF03. On the side seams and inleg seams, you can find a topstitch to give the pants an tough and luxurious look. At the bottom of the legs you will find a rolled hem of 2 cm. Two pockets on the back of the pants, for a better and more elegant fit at the back part. There are two darts at the back side, which end just underneath the pockets. A logo GENERAL INFORMATION will be attached on the waistband on the back side Name High waisted straight leg pants which has a fabric composition of 100% leather to Description get back to the Desert Raven style theme of the Quality
SIZESPEC
Date 1st PDS Coll / Prod Supplier
97 %CO, 3 EA
Composition
By
Washing / Finsh
Fossil.
Shipment date
#####
Grading sheet: Article: High waisted straight leg pants
Article number: HW-SS18-DJANGO
GRADED PRODUCTION SPEC
Measured siz
Measurement position
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
1
1/2 waist width
36,5
39
41,5
44
46,5
49
51,5
No.
2
outseam
98,5
101
103,5
106
108,5
111
113,5
3
waistband height
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
front rise (exclusive waistband)
22
24,5
27
29,5
32
34,5
37
5
high hip
23
23,5
24
24,5
26
27,5
29
6
1/2 upper hip
27
28,5
30
31,5
33
34,5
36
7
inseam
73
74,5
76
77,5
79
80,5
82
8
back rise (exclusive waistband)
31
32,5
34
35,5
37
38,5
40
9
1/2 opening leg
19
19,5
20
20,5
21
21,5
22
10
Hem height till (upper) stitching
0
0
0
0
0
0
11
Belt loops
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
12
Pocket back width
-1
-0,5
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
13
Pocket back height
-1
-0,5
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
14
Fly opening (actual opening)
19,5
19,5
19,5
20,5
20,5
22,5
22,5
SMS
7
REMARKS
29
Last update
PP1
PP2 R
E
VISUAL
SPEC
SHEET
Inside leg panels, back and front panel stitched together, then overlocking both panels with 3 threads overlock. Rolled hem of two cm at the bottom.
Dart, that stops just underneath the back pockets at the back panels.
Eye-Buttonhole, with button machine, button sewed on by hand. Stitching of zipper with 1 needle stitching, 301.
Overlock fly and fly facing with 3 threads overlock stitching. Double fly facing and sewed on fly on the left front panel. Stitched on by 1 needlestitch.
Darts on both of the back panel, each side one. Width of dart on widest point: 1,5 cm 9
BY FOSSIL. FINANCIAL PHASE: Financial Advise & Logistic Plan: The brief: In addition to the Collection Plan, there should also be an indication of the finance, revenue and expenses and a well-reasoned argument should be given for the country where each garment will be produced. Using business models, this should be described in the Financial Report containing: - mapping the supply chain - providing insight into costs including C.M.T. transport and stock - pricing including calculating the margin on the basis of cost and selling price - calculating individually for each of your two styles doing a Break-Even Analysis calculation - providing realistic financial support, including a range plan During this phase I calculated the entire collection, the costs for the CMT, transport and break-even analysis. For the production I focussed on Portugal. A country with balanced costs as well as productivity. The choice of Portugal as production base will ensure garments of excellent quality, produced according to environment friendly standards for a commercially appealing price. On the next page, you’ll find the range plan from the entire collection.
RANGE PLAN BY FOSSIL. S/S ’18
PERSONAL WORK FORTUNATE SONS Shots by Puck Verheul make-up and hair by Geesje Remijnse models Mike-Ryan, Retmar, Corné @ Alpha Male Styling by me
PERSONAL WORK PHOTOGRAPHY Experiments with a camera, trying to develop myself by searching interesting places to capture and play with different kind of angles.