2
3
EDITOR’S NOTE With our world getting smaller every year, it has become hard to find places that are still untouched by human development. Places that were once isolated from humans have become overrun by us. A good example is the Amazon rainforest in South America. 50 years ago, much of it remained unexplored and unreachable. Now, with more advanced transportation and technology, we have been able to explore most of the rainforest. As usual, once somewhere new has been discovered, it wont be long before somebody will try to take advantage of it fro their own needs. Today, the Amazon rainforest suffers from deforestation, human settlement, and overdevelopment. As you can see, a lot has changed about our world in the last 5 decades. When most people think about China, the picture of it’s polluted, overcrowded capital, Beijing comes up. What most people don't know is that outside the major cities, much of the country is still covered in pristine environments. On these endless grasslands and mountains, native people of the country roam the land just like they did 100 years ago. This is one of the last places on earth where native minority’s can roam the same lands that the generations before them have roamed. Unlike the rest of the world, not much has changed about China’s countryside over the last century. In this month’s edition of China Travel, we leave the fancy restaurants and nice houses of Beijing behind, and head for the vastly unexplored areas of this country. We reveal to you the lifestyles of several little known minority’s, plus more. We hope you can learn more about China through our magazine, and as always, we hope you find it enjoyable to read!
Editor in Chief,
Max Chin 4
THE TIBETAN MINORITY The Tibetan minority mainly resides in Tibet, which is located in the south west corner of China, directly south of the Xinjiang province. Its absolute location is 32.27° N, 87.09° E. Their population includes approximately 2.91 million people. Most people follow Tibetan Buddhism or a collection of native traditions called Bön.
Minority Location
Prayer Flags
Rocky Landscapes
Traditional Clothing
5
The Palace in The Sky
had contrasting views on the world.
By: Eden Liu
While my blood is fully Chinese, I have the same diversified identity as a mixed
“Certainly, travel is more than the
child; I am not bound by my citizen
seeing of sights; it is a change that goes
loyalty or by blood promises but by my
on, deep and permanent, in the ideas
own right. I decide things not because I
of living.”
am American or Chinese, but because I
-Mary Ritter Beard
am me.
T h e re
Growing up I had always heard stories
is nothing in this world
of Tibet, but it always seemed like a far
comparable to Tibet. Mixed with
away legend. Almost no
spectacular
one had ever described
sceneries,
Tibet to me in terms of
exotic culture
scenery or culture, but
and pervasive
by its political situation
s p i r i t u a l i t y, Tibet
and religion. Finally, this
is
year I decided to see
unique. I do
Tibet for myself.
not see it as “The Roof of The World” but the place above the clouds, like the
Upon a friend’s recommendation, I was
palace of gods in Olympus; a legend
suggested to take a plane ride from
come true.
Beijing to Xining and stay there for two days in order to avoid altitude sickness.
As an unorthodox Buddhist Asian
In addition I took
American born in Seattle, I have always
6
numerous amounts of medication and
The lady who picked me up from the
pre-bought a bulk of air cans in case I
Lhasa Gonggar Airport appeared to be
was not use to the lack oxygen. While
in her early forties. Her name was
Xining was undoubtedly beautiful, it
Jampa. The corners of her eyes were
was more of an anticipatory
creased with smile lines and her hair
preparation for my stay in Tibet.
was streaked with silver streaks. She appeared plump, but in a sturdy and
On the day I continued travelling I was
almost motherly way, like a teddy bear
beyond excited. A month prior to my
you wanted to hug. Her radiant, rich
trip, I had planned to stay a day with a
walnut tan seemed to make her glow
Tibetan host family. I originally planned
in the most welcoming way possible.
to visit Tibet during their Losar New
While language was not an issue
Year Festival, which is around mid-
because we both spoke Mandarin, the
February, however I quickly found out
peculiar yet interesting accent that
that due to political reasons, Tibet was
came off of her tongue made the
not open to tourists at this time. Luckily
language sound extraordinarily exotic.
with further research I found that if I visited in August 13, the weather
Our ride to the host’s home was by car.
would not only be warmer and more
However, Jampa explained to me that
tolerable, but I will also be able to
in the past, locals would only travel by
make it in time for the Shoton festival,
horse; in fact, a common nickname for
which is the second biggest festival in
Tibet is “The Land Of Horses” due to
Tibet after Losar.
its large population of livestock including horses. After a while our
7
conversation fell into comfortable
soon after her husband, Wangchuk, who
silence, as she allowed me to enjoy the
like her was round-shaped while
rock-strewn landscapes that flashed by.
appearing sturdy. However unlike her,
Towering mountains indented the
his walk, his tone of speech and facial
endless, light cerulean sky with its
expressions screamed masculinity and
spears and horns, truly a sight to be
strict responsibility, making it clear he
seen. It was breathtaking, literally. I had
was the man of the house.
only just landed in Tibet, but my breathing was already heavy, and I was
The house was slender but tall. The
frequently taking deep breathes of air
walls were thickly built to insulate heat
from my air cans to
and all livestock were
remain stable.
stored under the living quarters to maintain
Upon our arrival, Jampa
warmth. Each room
was immediately
was very cozy and
attacked by 3 children,
filled with eccentric
who bombarded her
designs. I found myself
with an unfamiliar language. Again, I
admiring the different types of strange
was hit with the sensation of the
house ware in my room. My favorite by
peculiar sounds of the unfamiliar exotic
far is the bed. The bed was square
tones of their language. Together they
shaped surrounded with pillows, and
sounded like a singing orchestra that
covered
clashed and harmonized with each other at the same time.
Later I was introduced to the three youngsters as Jampa’s children, and
8
with different patterned bed sheets.
flags are called prayer flags; they are
Under the mattress was a stone slab.
used to bless the surrounding areas. The
Jampa explained that this was because
sky was a light shade of azure, with white
the stone slab would absorb the warmth
wisps of clouds that eddied around in
from the kitchen below and heat the
the never-ending sky.
bed; this was especially useful during T i b e t ’s u n f o r g i v i n g
My afternoon stroll was
winter time.
cut short when Jampa invited me back in the
After settling in, I
house for a small snack.
decided to take a stroll
The snack consisted of
around
the
yogurt and butter tea,
neighborhood. The late
both made from yak
afternoon sun was very
milk. Unlike yogurt
bright, but the cool
produced from cow or
breeze sent shivers
goat milk, the yak milk
down my spine. Even
made from yogurt was
during summer, Tibet
a very thin consistency
was still very cold. The
and was slightly
houses were very compact and thickly
sweeter. But despite its thin consistency
built, but instead of tight-knit
of the yogurt; both snacks were rich in
metropolitan skyscrapers, the buildings
texture and flavor, as Jampa had added
gave a more rustic impression with its
a hint of corn, cereal-like grains inside
fading whitish texture. Each house was
them.
decorated with flags of rainbow cloth that hung from ceiling to ceiling. These
9
As I chatted along with Jampa, she
has a little to do with all the barely
mentioned that since tonight was the
wine that they drank. It seemed that as
eve of the Shoton Festival, they would
the sky darkened, the eyes of the men
be hosting a large dinner with most of
shined brighter. I find it hard to not
the extended family to celebrate, and
join their festivities. They ask, I reply.
allowed me to be excused for the
They sing, I dance. They laugh, I join.
event.
It's a loquacious celebration. At what time, I am not sure, but I finally retreat
Right when the sky began to darken,
back to room, where I lay on the odd
family members started to trickle in.
Tibetan bed and let the darkness
Each member was received with
overtake me.
welcoming arms from both Jampa and Wangchuk. As the men settled in, the
The next day, I woke up especially
women of the family began pouring
early to watch the sunrise. Jampa
drinks and preparing the food. All the
personally took me to a mountaintop.
men sat at a large table, Wangchuck
We were so high up, that under us
sat at the head. The women were
were frosty, slightly purple hued
either in the kitchen working, serving
clouds, and despite it being dark at
the food, or tending to the children.
the crack of dawn, the clouds acted as lights; illuminating the sky for us. I felt
As the night carried on, the women
that if I extended my arm far enough I
started to take the children back home
would be to feel the soft, fluffy, pillow-
so they can rest. Before long I am left
like texture of the clouds. We were no
with the men, who talk as if there is no
longer under the sky, but part of it –
end. The men’s cheeks are stained red
moving
from laughing, however I suspect it
10
with it, flying with it, living in it. We
words in the Tibetan language, which
were the gods of Olympus and Tibet
means "the Yogurt (Sho) Banquet
was our palace.
(Ton)". In Tibet, yogurt to some
The sun finally came out. But I couldn’t pinpoint exactly when, it was more of
“We were the gods of Olympus and Tibet was our palace.”
gradual appearance,
consent,
is
considered a kind of holy food. This is because one of the Masters (Gods) that they believe in likes
like earthworms after a rainy day. Its
eating yogurt. Tibetans would present
fiery hues contrasted deeply with the
him with alms of yogurt when summer
ominous colors of the clouds and the
comes, so the Master would pray for
still gray and dark sky. The sun was so
them. It is said that the livestock of the
bright and alluring, that I found that
folks presenting yogurt to the Master
after staring at it for a long time, I
would be free from disease and get
could feel its burning gaze looking
neither lost nor eaten by wild animals.
directly back at me. I wasn’t sure if it was the lack of oxygen, blinding sun
Besides the obvious yogurt eating
or simply because it was too early in
aspect of the festival, another way of
the morning, but I felt dizzy sensation
celebrating is opera singing. Unlike
of ethereal flotation, like I was flying.
Peking Opera or European Opera, Tibetan opera, otherwise known as
Soon after, I left back to the house to
Ache Lhamo, was a strange mixture of
prepare for the Shoton Festival.
dissonance and melodies. Its
Shoton is a transliteration of two
11
costumes oddly reminded me of
would have wanted to be in that
African or Oceanic tribal clothing.
moment.
For lack of better explanation, Tibet
One minute I was drinking yogurt,
was the most unique and oddly
the next I was singing with the locals,
eccentric place I have ever been.
praying along with monks, frolicking
Like a weird, abstract mixture of
with children. It was beautiful chaotic
culture, spirituality and magnificent
mess. Exhausted from all the
scenery. Together it was literally and
adrenaline, I sat down in a nearby
figuratively the highest place on
bench and observed the crowd. The
earth.
people had all worn their best
All I could have wished for was a
traditional clothing for the event.
longer stay.
Their clothes were rainbows of patterns and colors. Everyone wore
On my trip back to Beijing, I took a
thick layers and hats with fluffy ear
24-hour train. My goodbye to the
w a r m e r. H o w e v e r t h e m o s t
host family was short, as they had
interesting piece apparel I saw, was a
continued festivities to attend to. We
woman’s hat that had multicolored
exchanged contact information in a
fans extending on both sides and a
promise that someday we might
tall, protruding section in the middle,
meet again. I specifically booked a
faintly reminding me of Egyptian
window seat so I could enjoy the
headwear.
outside view as well as the sunset at noon. It was still bright outside when
And it was in this moment that I
I boarded the train, so everything
realized that despite its political
outside was bright and clear. Tibet’s
situation and others opinions’ of Tibet, there was no other place I
12
textured and barren lands flashed by faster than light. I wished time could slow down so I could use my eyes as a camera and forever remember the spectacular scenery outside the train. 
 As night rolled in, the sky became pitch black. Nothing could be seen outside. No sounds of laughter or singing were to be heard, only the soft, buzzing hum of the train, and the man in front of me gently tapping his fingers against the arm rest; click, click, click. There were no clouds under us to light our way, only the light from with in the train, reminding us that we were no longer in the palace in the sky.
13
THE SALAR MINORITY According to the 2000 census, there are currently
Imagine yourself surrounded by towering mountains and cliffs. You are living in a valley between the peaks with your family and community. You work as a subsistence farmer so you can provide food for your family. Every day’s routine is the same. You wake up at 5:30 AM, and you work in the fields for the whole day. At night, you return home to have dinner with your family. This is the life of a typical Salar man.
104,503 people belonging to the Salar minority approximately
The Salar are one of the few Chinese minority’s that practice the religion
The Salar rely on
farming for food and money
of Islam
The Salar language has
written
no form
The Salar mainly occupy
Qinghai province
The location of Xunhua Salar Autonomous County in Qinghai Province
A Salar temple
Some typical foods of the Salar Tribe
Typical clothing of a Salar man and woman
15
A Day With The Salar By: Max Chin
rough start, I wasn’t sure that this trip would meet my high expectations.
The sound of bleating goats filled the
24 hours ago, I stood at the exit of
air. There was nobody else in the back
Beijing Capital Airport.
of the truck, just me, the goats and a lonely chicken.
My flight from
Kuala Lumpur had just arrived. It was 3 in
My body shook as we
the morning and I was tired, drowsy and
drove along the bumpy road. I looked
sick, but there was no time to rest. I
outside, and all I could see was endless
hailed a taxi, and went straight to the
jaggy mountains. Somewhere below us,
train station.
the Yellow River roared through a gorge.
An hour later, I was
standing at the train terminal, awaiting
I was starting to get skeptical about this
my ride. It was just me and a few other
trip that I was taking. After traveling so
native people from the Salar minority.
far, was it worth the trouble?
Then, the ground shook, as I heard rumbling in the distance. Boarding the
As a travel writer, I have been to a lot of places, but none like this.
train, I prepared for what would surely be
My name is
a long ride. From my current location in
Max, and I am originally from the country of Malaysia.
Beijing, it would take 22 hours by train to
I have been all over the
reach my destination, the Xunhua Salar
world in order to fulfil my need for travel
Autonomous County in Qinghai
and adventure. In September, I visited
Province.
the Xunhua Salar Autonomous County in
remaining places where large numbers
Qinghai Province in order to experience
of Salar people resided, and I knew this
a day in the life of the unique Salar minority.
This is one of the few
was the only place to go if I wanted to
I had been planning this trip
experience a day in their
for a long time, and I was looking forward to it a lot. However, after a
16
lives. I chose my seat and settled down.
back with a bunch of animals, and the
I fell asleep almost immediately.
torturous, bumpy ride began. I was thankful when we finally arrived in
The sunlight shining through the
the village about a half hour later. It was
windows woke me. Sleepily, I looked at
early in the afternoon, 2:45, to be exact.
my watch and saw that I had already
My first impression was that the village
slept for a full 12 hours.
I looked out
was a very peaceful and quiet place.
the window, and all I saw were vast
Everybody was walking around silently,
plains that seemed to stretch on forever.
and the only noises were the occasional
I still had 10 hours to kill, so I started
bleating of goats and crowing of
reading an informative guide on the
chickens. Immediately, I took a liking to
Salar tribe that I had bought
the place, as I always enjoyed locations
beforehand.
However, this did not
which offered peace and serenity. As I
occupy me for long, as I finished the
began looking for my host’s home, I
book within an hour. For the rest of the
noticed peculiar features about their
journey, I just looked out the window at
housing. Almost all of them had large,
the different scenery that we passed by.
open windows that allowed air to flow
A few hour’s later, I had arrived at my
inside the house. I knew that this was
destination. I had heard that somebody
probably because of the areas arid
would be here to pick me up, but there
climate, especially in the winter.
was nobody in sight, other than an old
Despite the high elevation of this area,
truck filled with animals. I politely asked
the weather was often very dry. This
the driver whether there was anybody
fascinated me, as I have always been
here to pick me up, and I was shocked
interested in how geography affects the
when he replied that he was the one
way a specific group of people lives.
that was sent. Reluctantly, I got in the
Soon, I stopped at a large wooden door that was supposed to be the entrance to
17
a man in a white hexagonal cap with no
was a specific way to hold the teacup
brim, white clothes with a green
and that you had to tear the bread into
waistcoat, and a red belt around the
small pieces before eating it, so I was
waist opened the door.
prepared.
After that, I talked a bit
about myself, and he talked a bit more Stepping
about the village and the minority’s
into the
main religion, Islam. That explained the
house,
name, as you don’t find many Chinese
the first
called Muhammad. He also explained
thing I
about why they wore clothing that was
noticed
neither tight fitting or loose, because
was the
depending on the season, the climate
w h i t e
could vary from freezing cold to burning
w a l l s
hot.
It seems that I had come at the
decorated in elegant Arabic
calligraphies in Kufic script. The house
exact right time, as the village was
was split up into 4 basic rooms, a
currently in the midst of celebrating
bedroom, a kitchen, a dining room and
their annual Corban Festival, also
a living room.
known as Eid-al Adha, which involves
My host introduced
himself as Muhammad, and said that he
lots of sacrifices and ceremonies.
would be my guide for the next 24
3:30, Muhammad led me on a walk on a
hours. He led me to a small tea table
d e n s e l y f o re s t e d t r a i l t o w a rd a
and offered me fresh tea and steamed
ceremony that I was told was
bread. I learnt before hand that there
18
At
taking place. As the sound of music and
still part of the tribe’s culture and an
loud voices got closer, I found myself
interesting ritual to watch. Now that the
getting more and more excited at what
sacrifice had been done, it was time for
was awaiting me at the ceremony.
the celebrating.
We walked out of the dense forest and
For the next few hours, I witnessed a
into a clearing filled with people dressed
variety of traditional songs and dances,
in vibrant dresses.
but out of all of them, only one really
Everybody was
gathered in a circle. In the center, there
caught my eye.
stood a single man with a knife in his
traditional song known as a Flower Song
hand.
I really had no idea what was
that was performed a few times in the
going on, and why the guy in the center
festival. With its roots in Tibet, this type
had a knife.
Then, I watched as a goat
of song is usually sung in the fields before
was brought forth from somewhere in the
or after work. With its beautiful melodies
crowd into the center where the man was
and pleasant vibrato, this was the
standing.
performance that I enjoyed the most
The man held the goat and
There was a type of
lifted it up, putting the knife at its throat
throughout the festival.
and chanted some unknown words in the
traditional songs and dances, there were
traditional
also lots of traditional story’s and folk
Salar language.
Besides
Realizing what he was
tales that were shared during the festival.
going to do, I turned myself away at the
By the time the festival finished, it was
last A. The loud bleat of the dying goat
already nearing 7:00, and it was time for
filled the air.
dinner.
Realizing that it was safe to look, I turned around.
Someone had taken the goat
I sat at the dining table back at
away, but I could still see the fresh blood
Muhammad’s house, waiting for dinner to
dripping from the man’s blade. Although
be served. There were 2 seats beside a
this might not have been my most
low-lying wooden table. To
enjoyable experience in my travels, it was
19
my surprise, I saw no form of cutlery
causes.
After dinner, we talked about
visible anywhere, so I assumed that we
different aspects of the Salar culture. Around these parts, the main occupation is farming, as there is good fertile soil here, and lots of rain in the summer as well.
were going to eat with our hands. Muhammad walked out of the kitchen carrying 2 plates, which I assumed were our dinner. Our dinner consisted of flat
As a result, the people rely mainly on farmed vegetables for food. Once again, the environment they live in affects the way the tribe lives. He also explains how in Salar culture, men are in charge of the bread made out of flour with potatoes
farming and construction while woman
and chicken. There was a pot of rice tea
are in charge of cooking, taking care of
on the table for us to drink. While we eat,
the house and kids. Before we know it, it
Muhammad talks about how flour made
is time for us to head to bed, as we had
out of corn is a staple part of their diet.
an early rise tomorrow. Muhammad led
He also mentions how their religion
me to the bedroom, where there are
prevents them from drinking alcohol, and
several rolled up mattress’s leaning
how it is considered taboo to eat meat
against the wall. He takes one and
from animals that have died of natural
20
unrolls it on the floor.
Following his
example, I set up my mattress as well. I lay down, and fell asleep almost immediately, as I had had a long day.
When I woke up, it was still dark outside, as the sun has not risen yet. I looked over beside me, and I see Muhammad rising and preparing himself for a long day. After a quick breakfast of bread, we exited the house and began the ripe ears of corn of and tossing
to make our way towards Muhammad’s
them in our basket. I even ate one of
fields. It was quite a long walk, with lots
the ears, and I can’t describe how good
of dense vegetation and a steep uphill slope.
it tasted. The succulent vegetable had
I really had no idea how these
people make this walk every day.
the perfect combination of sweetness
I’m
and juiciness. As we moved on through
pretty sure I wouldn’t survive a day in
the fields, I was starting to enjoy life as a
their lives. By the time we finally reach
farmer more and more. At around 1:00,
his fields, I’m exhausted. The first thing
we started the long journey back to
I noticed about his fields were their peculiar shape.
Muhammad’s home, as I had to be at
They were staggered
the train station by 2:00 to catch my
along the hillside in layers, as there
train.
wasn’t any flat land around. This made the hills look even more beautiful than
After arriving at his home and packing
they already did. As soon as we arrive, we get to work.
my bags, I bid farewell to Muhammad
Right now, it was
and take one last walk around the
harvesting season, so me and
village.
Muhammad walked around, plucking
I realized that I had only
discovered the tip of this iceberg, and
21
that the only way I would eventually uncover its secrets was if I lived here. It really was a beautiful place, and I realized that life here wouldn’t actually be that bad. You could breath in fresh mountain air, had good food and lots of fun festivals as well.
I really wished I
could stay longer, but I had other places to go, and I was on a strict time limit. In my head, I made a mental note to come back to this amazing place in the future. There was so much more I wanted to know.
As I walked towards my ride, I
knew I had answered my question. This place was definitely worth all the traveling that made it possible to visit. I took one last look at the pristine village, before I climbed into the truck filled with the sound of bleating goats.
22
24
THE MONGOL MINORITY The Mongols are the people who live in Inner Mongolia. Inner Mongolia is located at 44Ëš N, 113Ëš E. It makes up the northern border of China. The population of Mongols are 24.82 million people, and the main religion is Tibetan Buddhism or Mongolian Shamanism. Their main language is Mongolian. Did you know that the Great Wall of China was all the way in Inner Mongolia too? It is also the third largest province in China.
Percentage of Livestock in Inner Mongolia, 1985 Robert L.; Savada, Andrea Matles (1989). "Mongolia: A Country Study:Agriculture". Washington GPO for the Library of Congress. Retrieved September 4, 2008.
A white and blue yurt
Colorful traditional clothing
Inner Mongolian milk tea and yogurt
25
Being Basic
I took some pictures out the window
By: Louisa Song
as the bus drove away from Hohhot to the Xilamuren Grasslands. We
Inner Mongolia isn’t necessarily what
were currently in Northern China and
you think it is. In the beginning, I
Mongolia took up a big part of the
thought that Inner Mongolia was just
border of China. After a long period
a huge open space full of green
of realizations and self-thoughts, I
grass and yurts. No roads, streets or
feel asleep, shortly before Gerel
cars. Only horses and livestock! Or
shook me up with an excited face
maybe a train station in the middle
signaling our arrival to the
of nowhere. But I was wrong. When I
grasslands. As soon as we got off the
left the train station of Hohhot, I
bus, I knew that my first vision of
stood on a normal street. Moments
Inner Mongolia wasn’t totally wrong,
later I hurried over and shook her
because in front of my eyes laid
hand. Building a good relationship
unfolding grasslands and hills, the
with this woman was crucial, for she
fresh smell of horses and dots of
would be my travel buddy for a
white yurts with intricate patterns on
couple days. I introduced myself as
the outer skin of the yurts. It was
Louisa, and I soon learnt that her
amazing to see the Mongolians still
name was Gerel, a beautiful name
living nomadic lives. Gerel explained
meaning light in Mongolian.
to me that Mongolians moved their
Together we walked over to the bus
yurts three to four times a year in
stop and hopped on a bus that took
search for better grazing land. This
us to the grasslands. It was 8 a.m.
was why their yurts were built this
and the skies were a sapphire blue, a
way; because it was easy to
sight hard to find in a city like Seoul.
dismantle, carry, and set up again.
it was cool to know that Inner
But then I wondered, wouldn’t such a dumpling-like house have bad air,
26
Well, Gerel further explained that
I could see that the outside of the
there was an opening in the middle
yurt had blue prints on them. The
of the roof, a crown, so the cold air
designs were simple, but the color
was able to come in, and the hot air
choice was not. There were only two
was able to get out, helping
colors in the exterior of the yurt.
circulate the air! And the yurts were
Light blue and white. Gerel told me
circular, because that was sturdier
that the Mongolians revered the sky
and could deflect the strong winds
as Holy Father and the grass as Holy
that blew in Inner Mongolia. In
Mother, because Inner Mongolia
addition, it was easy to raise the
was full of vast grasslands and skies.
covering of the yurts in the
And that was why the designs were
summertime and increase the
in light blue, to symbolize the sky. At
airflow. At the same time this had a
the same time she also explained to
cooling effect, perfect for fighting
me that the religion most
the heat.
Mongolians believed in was Tibetan Buddhism or Mongolian Shamanism.
I noticed that the owner of the yurt was motioning me to walk inside. This was when I made all the wrong mistakes. Like a habit, I brushed both of my sleeves up my arm before entering the yurt, an action unwelcomed in this society. I also approached the yurt too quickly, and startled a little horse standing nearby. To the people here who lived nomadic lives, even startling
27
the horse would have come off as
m e t h a t d u r i n g t h e w i n t e r,
disrespect. They even had specific
Mongolians wore robes made of
procedures for killing livestock, to
sheepskin, because the days
minimize the pain the animal would
dropped down to a bitter cold. And
feel during the killing. Knowing
in the summer, they switched to silk
this, I was unsure what to do,
robes to stay cool. I gave him a nod
worried about the bad first
of appreciation for helping me
impression I would have made on
understand.
my host family.
Next, the host passed me a
Looking away, I entered the
cup filled with
doorway and stepped inside. As
something I
soon as I walked in the cozy yurt, I
wasn’t familiar
observed that the designs and
with. Gerel explained that this drink
furniture inside were rich in color. I
was Tarag, a yogurt made with milk
kept looking around, waiting for
from cattle and yaks. It had many
the host to say something. I was
grains in it, and I accepted it with
slightly excited that I was finally in a
my left hand, immediately followed
yurt! I also
by a rush of regret. I remembered
observed that
that I wasn’t supposed to accept
even in the
anything with my left hand here,
hot summer,
but it was already too late to fix this
t
e
mistake. After pulling out my
Mongolians
camera and taking a quick
were properly
snapshot of the drink, I looked
clothed, with
around uneasily, hoping I wasn’t
h
not a lot of skin showing. They
breaking any more rules.
wore long sleeved silk robes. When my host saw me looking at his
Awkwardly, I just stirred the thick
outfit, he told Gerel to translate to
white yogurt with a plastic spoon. 28
The spoon just left slight marks in the
was usual for the woman to do the
yogurt that smoothed out after a
housework and take care of the kids
couple seconds. When I looked up, I
and for the husbands to work in South
saw that my host had a hat on his
Korea. In Inner Mongolia, the women
head, and based on what I learnt so
were in a higher rank in terms of work
far, I inferred that the hat meant
compared to the woman in other
something meaningful. And so Gerel
parts of Asia. The woman herded and
explained to me that the pointed top
milked the sheep. If their husbands
of the hat symbolized values like the
were not there, the woman would
unity of the nation, and the circular
manage the household and do other
dome shape represented the yurt, not
things like perform military service or
too different from the one we were
caravan work. I understood what she
sitting in that very moment. As usual, I
was saying and went back to eating
nodded and tried my best to
the delicious mutton.
remember all the details and took some more photos.
After the delicious dinner I rummaged through my luggage to pair together
That day for lunch my host served me
the brightest outfit. Tomorrow was
some mutton. Gerel explained that
July 12th, the second day of the
mutton was important for the Inner
Naadam Grassland Festival, a festival
Mongolians, and that there was a lot
meaning recreation, something I did
of this meat here on the grasslands.
not want to miss.
During dinner, Gerel talked more about what happened around here.
The next morning, I smoothed down
She knew I was from Seoul and told
my red shirt and slipped on my
me how the roles of the husband and
brilliant blue long skirt. My host
wife were different here. With some
brought his family, Gerel and I to
exceptions in this modern world, it
where the festival was taking place.
29
As I was getting closer, I could feel the
were under clear blue skies, breathing
heat and roaring of the audience. The
fresh air. They were getting more
ground shook with the dancing and
opportunities to interact with nature
the area was accompanied by
and animals.
shouting and singing. My host family was also dressed in the most colorful
When I took a quick look at my host
outfits I’ve ever seen. Even with a
family, it was the hat of the wife that
naturally loud voice, Gerel had to
caught my attention this time. On her
shout in order to let herself be heard.
head was a hat that wrapped around
She said that the clothes the
her head. Nothing was loose. I
Mongolians wore depended on the
guessed that this was part of the
climate, the age of the person
culture because Inner Mongolia could
wearing it, fabrics and occasions etc.
get windy in the springtime.
The children also looked very festive, but they never seemed to forget their
We entered the National Nadaam
manners. I was just going to pat their
Stadium and found our seats.
heads when I remembered that
Fortunately, my seat allowed me to
patting the heads of children was
see all the action clearly without even
indeed another taboo.
I thought of
standing up. The second day of the
the children I saw on the streets of
Nadaam festivals were the horse
Seoul. They all had backpacks on their
races. As the festival started, the roar
backs, earplugs in ears, books in
of the crowd vibrated my eardrums
hands. They didn’t have much
rapidly. There were so many horses
opportunity to get out in the open
out on the grasslands that I couldn’t
and release the large amounts of
count them all. Roughly I estimated
stress they received from their studies.
about 600, but I was sure there were
The children here looked free. They
more. The jockeys waiting on the
were children on horsebacks, and
sides all
even though they studied hard, they
30
looked very young. What‌? I
know pretty well. I guess it was a
thought children were watching the
traditional tune of some sort. Then
festivities, not participating! Were
the jockeys also sang a tune and
they going to be safe? Question
hopped on the horses. The races
after question rolled across my
were starting soon! I could see that
brain. As if my host read my face of
the horses were dividing up into
confusion, he politely explained to
sections. I counted roughly six, and
me that the jockeys were all
all the horses in each section were
children from the ages of 5 to 13.
the same sizes. I guessed that the
He said this was because the race
sections were divided up by age,
was to test the horse’s ability, not
and later I realized my guess was
the riders. But he assured me that
right!
they were going to be safe, because Inner Mongolia had vast
After a long while, the horses came
green lands everywhere, so the
back and I saw that people were
children here learned to ride horses
serenading the 2-year-old horse
even before mastering how to walk.
that lost the race. How sweet of
Before learning to walk? I thought
these people! When all the races
that was pretty impressive. I relaxed
were over, I tried my best using my
back into my seat and waited to see
translator on my phone to ask my
the skills of these talented
host why the Mongolians
horseback riders.
celebrated this festival. He explained that the festivals were
Soon after, the crowd started to
there as a ritual to honor the many
sing songs that they all seemed to
mountain gods. On my way out of
31
probably find with my eyes closed.
Even during the dinner, Gerel didn’t
Just by following the smell. The
forget to tell me that mutton was
smell wafted into my nostrils. It was
important for the Inner Mongolians,
so nice and welcoming that I
because the mutton in Inner
couldn’t help but close my eyes and
Mongolia was the most tender
smile.
compared to other places in China. That night after eating a scrumptious
When I entered the yurt I saw the
dinner, I climbed into bed dreaming
prepared dish. It was roasted whole
about sheep and horses.
sheep. I gasped. This delicacy was really for the most honored guests. I
The next morning all of us climbed
quickly turned to my host. He smiled
on camels. My host said that he
and motioned for me to sit down.
wanted to show me something really
The more my host family cared about
cool. Following my host’s lead, we
me, the more I was worried, because
rode for a long while, until the grass
I was scared that I would disappoint
patches of grass started to go away
them in some way. As the dinner
and we were at a desert. It was here
started, I tried not to eat too fast,
when I realized that sitting between
because I didn’t want to seem
the humps of a camel was quite
impolite. But the sheep was
relaxing. Mongolians used camels to
irresistible.
travel around places like deserts because camels could go long
“It was so delicious, and the
distances without drinking much
flavors of shallot, ginger, salt
water.
and other seasonings seeped
We started to go over some hills,
throughout the sheep, making
and I observed the sun rising in the
it incredibly indulgent.”
distance. It looked like a fireball
32
rushing out of the sand. And
them enough. The people in Inner
suddenly, when we walked up one of
Mongolia were so nice and
the hills, the ground started to make
kindhearted. My host family came
a rumbling sound. I thought the
with Gerel and I all the way to the
desert was angry with us! Was the
entrance of the grassland where our
sun really a fireball ready to fire? I
van was.
nervously moved around, trying to get my host’s attention to ask what
Even inside the van I watched my
was going on. On the way down from
host family walking back home. He
the hill, he told me that the sound
was a man I would never forget.
made from this sand still remained a
The Mongolians have taught me
phenomenon. People inferred that
many lessons without even using
this sound was made from the spirits
words. Just by showing how they
that lived under the sand, but there
move their yurts four times a year just
was no science to prove this theory.
to find better grazing land teaches
That was when I started to get
me to be flexible and determined. As
excited. So this was what people
a travel writer, it tells me to visit many
were talking about when they
places in search for better
mentioned the resonating sand! I
information and learn to be flexible
heard it once again, and this time it
in many environments too. I will
was even louder. I could almost feel
forever remember the magnificent
the ground rumble under my feet.
people of Inner Mongolia.
When we went back to the yurts, I wished my host family goodbye and kept thanking them for allowing me to make such great memories and for being so helpful in showing me around. I didn’t know how to thank
33
THE TUJIA MINORITY The Tujia minority mainly resides in Hunan and Hubei province, which is located in the central east of China and the south banks of the middle reaches of Yangtze River. Its absolute location is 27.40° N, 111.80° E. The Tujias often live in mountainous regions and near water.
Provincial Distribution of the Tujia
Regions with Significant Populations
“Diaojiaolou”, Tujia’s Traditional Housing
Corn, One of Tujia’s main food source
The Tujias religion is Polytheism
35
The Legendary Legends of Tujia
I vividly remember arriving on the
By: Sunny Lee
evening of February 16th at the Huanghua International Airport
The
after an 18-hour flight plus a
loud and busy streets of
transfer in PEK. There were
Chicago, that’s where I’m from. It
crowds of hundreds of people
contrasts very much to the people
trying to get past one another, I’m
and the natural area I visited, the
guessing because they were
Tujia’s in Hunan Province. Upon
going to reunite with their family
my colleague’s recommendation, I
for the upcoming Gannian
did some research on my own to
festival.
get a feel of what the place was
like. I was surprised to see that
In the past 5 years, I have traveled
somewhere so natural and green
all around the world, from the
as this still existed on earth. I read
scorching deserts of Sudan to the
online that they have a special
frigid land of Canada. This would
festival called “Gannian”, which is
be my second visit to China; with
their lunar New Years Eve Festival,
the first being Beijing because of
but it is celebrated one day
a meeting I had to attend.
before the one celebrated by the Hans which we know best of. This
When I had exited the plane, I
year, this day, according to the
was ready to collapse from jet-lag
Western calendar, is February 17th,
and tiredness. In the waiting area,
which was a perfect time for
I saw a tanned man wearing a
me to go because we had
short, black, coat, blue trousers
Chinese New Year holiday then
and sandals. With him was a
anyway.
woman holding a sign above her head,
36
with the name “Sunny” written in
located to the south of the
bold, red letters.
Ya n g t z e R i v e r a n d L a k e Dongting.
Therefore they are
I planned to stay with a Tujia
blessed with a rich waters and
family for an entire day while I
this area provides ideal
was in Hunan to enlighten myself
conditions for the development
with their culture, so now at 7 at
of forestry, agriculture, fishery
night; my 24-hour journey has
and stock raising.
begun. The taxis in Hunan formed a When I approached them, the
colorful mosaic of white, yellow,
women holding the sign smiled
and blue. They formed a line
brightly. She introduced herself
outside the airport, surprisingly
as Helen and that she would be
with quiet and patient taxi
my guide during my stay. The
drivers.
man was named Mao and his wife’s name was Jiang but she
I’m proficient in Chinese so I
couldn’t come because she was
thought I would have been able
at home, busily preparing for the
to get myself to my home-stay
Gannian festival. They also had
location if I wanted to, but it
one daughter named Hong, but
turned out that I wouldn’t have
she couldn’t come as well
been able to communicate here
because she was, of course, at
alone. People here had all sorts
school. As the three of us walked
of different dialects and accents.
out of the airport, my face was
The vast majority of the Tujia
immediately blasted with the
speak in Southwest Mandarin,
extremely hot and humid air. Mr.
with a few speaking Miao
Mao explained that Hunan is
language.
37
We took a long-distance bus that
Mrs. Jiang, she was very welcoming
was awfully crowded. At one point
and helped me carry my luggage
we stopped and got on a little
inside. Entering her house, she
boat, that they told me was a
asked me to take my shoes off and
traditional boat they used for
leave them beside the front door.
getting around in their own village.
This was a little unusual for me as
It took roughly 40 minutes in total
she placed a pair of brocade fabric
to arrive at their front door, which
slippers in front of my feet. She told
was actually by the water so we had
me that it was handmade by her 14-
to get off the boat and walk up a
year-old daughter. Tujia women are
few steps.
experts at weaving. “Xilankapu”, also known as “Knitting Floral
Carefully lifting myself up and
Bedclothes”, is the masterpiece of
leaping out of the boat, I scanned
the Tujia crafts. According to the
the scenery. Most of the houses
customs of Tujia nationality, the
nearby were very traditional, wooden, and high up. Their traditional housing is called “Diaojiaolou”, literally meaning hanging attic. This type of wooden b u i l d i n g s a re b u i l t c l o s e t o mountains or above water, they are usually built on slopes and are 100% made of wood without iron.
After minutes of arrival, I was greeted by my home-stay named
38
Tujia girls will start learning
traditional dances such as the
knitting with colorful threads
Baishou dance and the Maogusi
when at the age of 11 or 12.
dance, because crafting and
Mrs. Jiang was wearing a bright
dancing is a big part in the Tujia
lime green jacket with buttons
culture. Tujia follows the one-
down the left side and a long
child policy, therefore our family
black skirt that was woven by
is gifted with our lovely
herself.
daughter,” Mr. Jiang stated proudly.
Mr. Mao came along and offered to give me a tour of their house, I brought my guide Helen with me incase I missed anything he said. “The houses are usually two to three stories with a verandah,” he
“What does your child learn in school? Do they have the usual math, science, and language class?” I asked. “Children here learn a variety of skills such as math and science, but they also have classes in art for learning how to weave and sew. Tujia children are also taught the
39
began. The ground floor is
China, they got tackled and
served as livestock sheds or
bitten by the beasts, reptiles, and
storehouse for equipment and
insects in the mountain forests.
firewood, while the second floor
First, they set fire to keep these
and above is for family living.
beasts away, but people were still
Family members whose
often bit by snakes and
bedrooms are upstairs have
scorpions. Then a brilliant leader
better lighting so they can work
in the tribe invented what they
on handcrafts or rest. The central
l i v e i n t o d a y, D i a o j i a o l o u .
room on the second floor is
Because it is high above the
where ancestors are enshrined
ground, Diaojiaolou has many
and worshipped. This is also the
advantages,” Mr. Mao told me.
place for family activities and
“Firstly, it can keep people away
entertaining guests.
from deadly wild animals in the old days. Second, people can
I’ve been waiting to ask this
stay away from the cool air rising
question ever since I arrived here
from underneath and prevent
and I finally found an appropriate
humidity related diseases such as
time to ask it, “Is there a specific
Rheumatism. Lastly, there is
reason why the houses are so
better lighting higher up, so
high above the water, and does it
people can work on delicate
have to do with the name
handcrafts such as their
Diaojiaolou?”.
Xilankapu,” he continued.
“That is an
excellent question and is significant to our lifestyle,” he
As we came down to the second
remarked. “It comes from a
floor, Mrs. Jiang greeted us. “I
legend.” He started. “When
am preparing a few important
ancient Chinese pioneers moved
things for the Gannian festival
from north to hilly southern
tomorrow,
40
would you like to join me?” she
Yaozhi knew it was almost
asked. I graciously accepted and
impossible for him to return, he
followed her into the kitchen.
decided to celebrate the New
Mrs. Jiang was very bright and
Year with his family two days
open. “Do you know much about
ahead of the traditional New Year
Gannian?” she asked. “I don’t
in case he died in the battlefield.
know everything about it either,
As time was limited, the soldiers
simply because there are so many
s t e w e d c u r e d m e a t , t o f u ,
variations of the history and
and carrot together in a pot and
traditions, but I will tell you what I
marched to the battlefront. They
know. Gannian Festival, also
defeated the enemies and
known as the Spring Festival, is
regained the lost territory in no
the most important traditional
time. To remember this victory,
festival for the Tujias. The Tujias
the Tujias began to celebrate
celebrate this festival one day
their Spring Festival one day
before the lunar New Year’s Eve
earlier since then,” I explained.
celebrated by the Hans, and that is why it’s called “Gannian”,
“Like I mentioned,” She said,
meaning an earlier new year. It is
“Time was limited and they didn’t
said that in the 33rd year
prepare much food, therefore we
of Jiajing Reign in the Qing
do the same which is different
Dynasty, Japanese pirates kept on
from the Hans.” She taught me
harassing and attacking China’s
how to make tofu first because it
southeastern seaboard. Under the
is a necessary dish on the dinner
imperial order, Tan Yaozhi with his
table on Gannian and it took the
son Tan Chengkun led other
longest to make. After we
soldiers to quell the pirates at the
pressed
end of the lunar year. As Tan 41
the tofu and let it set, we cooked
focus back to the Gannian
all the vegetable side dishes, a
festival. “Food is definitely one
variety of meat recipes, and a
of the biggest preparations here,
grilled fish.
but there are in fact other jobs that need to be done.” She
“Do only women work in the
answered. She led me to their
kitchen?” I asked curiously.
shed and dug out something
“Because our history says that
that I’ve seen before, Couplets.
men were the ones going to war
These are more than just red
fighting for our land, women
papers with gold words on them.
prepared most of the Gannian
To the Chinese (Hans, Tujias, etc),
festival. But in our general
hanging couplets on their gate
lifestyle,” she explained,
protects their family from evil
“Women, like men, did heavy
and disaster and greet the
agricultural labor in the early
coming of an auspicious year.
twentieth century. Because that was when women had extremely
I’ve had a long day dealing with
l o w s t a t u s i n s o c i e t y. B u t
jet-lag and learning about this
nowadays, it’s a relatively even
new culture. I decided to get
split in the division of agricultural
some rest so that I could
labor between men and women.
continue and finish my journey
However women is essentially
the next day.
more responsible for the domestic labor,” she finished.
Streaming sunlight and stepping sounds awakened me. I turned
“Is food the only thing that
to look at my watch, 5:53 AM.
needs to be prepared for
“So early…” I mumbled as I
Gannian, according to the
rolled off the bed sheets. I
history?” I asked, switching the
washed off my
42
face and stumbled down the
are required (usually April to June),
stairs. I saw Mrs. Jiang’s daughter
they will add another meal in the
already awake, swiping the ground
morning. Because these are the
outside. I was impressed of how
months when the monsoon rain
hard working she was. I slid into
falls. They will have snacks such as
the kitchen to greet Mrs. Jiang.
Ta n g y u a n ( g l u t i n o u s s w e e t dumplings), which she said I would
“You’re up already?” She was
have a chance to taste during the
asked a little surprised. “Do you
festival later in the day.
need help with anything?” I asked, wanting to help but my eyes half
Mrs. Jiang welcomed me into her
awake. She allowed me to sit and
closet informing me that clothing
relax on the breakfast table as she
during the Gannian festival was
prepared and set in front of me a
very important. She lent me one of
simple breakfast that consisted of rice, corn, and pickles.
“Tujia people mainly eat rice and corn, and sometimes wheat and sweet potatoes. Because all of these food are obtained by farming and this humid area provides perfect conditions for agriculture.” She told me. They also favor sour and spicy flavors, and eat a lot of pickles. Usually they have three meals a day but during busy farming seasons when heavier and longer hours of labor
43
her hand woven dresses that was
Hand dance. It is a traditional
bright blue with many other
mass collective performance of
colors incorporated all around
the Tujia people. It has a history
the dress. Her daughter also
of over 500 years and was
entered the room and offered to
originally a dance of triumph.
coil up my hair, which was then
This dance, now with its seventy
wrapped within a thick cloth.
ritual gestures that represent war,
Necklaces, earrings, wrist and
hunting, farming and other
ankle bracelets were also
aspects of life, is popular at the
necessary, which I borrowed from
Lunar New Year's festival.
Mrs. Jiang’s daughter. Mr. Mao wore a very traditional short
By the time they and many other
jacket with many buttons in front
groups finished dancing and
and a red cloth wrapped around
we’ve looked around a lot of the
his head.
different activities available, the sun started to set and we
When we stepped out of the
returned to the home-stay.
house, we saw people from other families already outside chatting,
It was 6PM, which meant that I
dancing, eating, drinking, doing
had one hour before I need to
whatever they wanted to do to
leave to go to the airport. Mrs.
celebrate the annual Gannian
Jiang began setting up the
festival. We went specifically to
dinner food because she wanted
the dancing section because Mrs.
me to join them for their big New
Jiang and her daughter had
Years Eve dinner even for a little
practiced a dance routine that
while. The tofu that we prepared
they wanted to share, called the
together the night before, the
Baishou dance, also known as the
44
vegetable dishes, the meat, and
level of humidity. I was able to
the fish, it didn’t feel much when
immerse myself in a new culture
we were preparing them the
and a new lifestyle. The last
night before, but seeing them all
thing we did before I left the
set up on the table made it
home-stay with my guide was
seem like it was a lot, which is
that we exchanged thank you
the point.
messages on the dinner table because that was part of their
I’ve learned so much during this
tradition. My home-stay family
experience in a completely
was a great pleasure to meet
different environment than what
and I hope to visit them again
I‘m used to. I had to step out of
sometime.
my comfort zone to live in a place that was so natural and pure. It was a new experience for me, living in a house that was balanced above the water to avoid the high humidity. This also led them to a different type of transportation; the traditional boat they used to get around in their villages. It was very interesting to see that the Tujias’ ate mostly corn and rice because they had such a high
45
Citations Hao, Yan. "Tibetan Population in China: Myths and Facts Re-examined." Asian Ethnicity 1.1 (2000): 11-36. Web. "Religion in Tibet - People's Daily Online." Religion in Tibet - People's Daily Online. China Tibet Information Center, 12 Dec. 2008. Web. 18 May 2015. Aeroplane. Digital image. Dwapl. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://dwapl.com/ images/aeroplane.png>. Blue Arrow Right. Digital image. Triathlon for Weight Loss. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://triathlonforweightloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/blue-arrowright-300x227.jpg>. Digital image. Intellichoice. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http:// image.intellichoice.com/f/38042597/Front+View+640>. Digital image. Tistory. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://cfs11.tistory.com/original/27/ tistory/2009/02/10/09/05/4990c4d0c3fc8>. Gray Parchment Paper Background. Digital image. Zinger Bug Images. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://www.zingerbugimages.com/backgrounds/ gray_parchment_paper_background_1800x1600.jpg>. Honda Logo Silver. Digital image. Raylaks Credit. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http:// www.raylakscredit.com/images/honda-logo-silver.gif>. Hong Kong City View at Night. Digital image. John Harvey Photo. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://www.johnharveyphoto.com/HongKong/CityViewAtNightLg.jpg>. Mountain Landscape. Digital image. Free Big Pictures. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 May 2015. <http://freebigpictures.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/mountain-landscape.jpg>.
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