Global Mash-Up
Process Analysis Document Louise Skehan Fashion 3 H00108995 Fashion Theory into practice E19FT Fashion Theory into Manufacture E19FM
Brief This collection is inspired by the Global Mash-up between two opposing cultures, music and ancient Egypt. Named Lone Melody it is a womenswear collection designed for the Spring/Summer 2016 season. The first culture is music culture. Looking at the link between mental illness and music as a release and an escape from reality while also investigating personal experiences of music such as music festivals, concerts and playing an instrument or playing at a gig. Stereotypical associations with music culture, such as the alternative woman/man, tattoos, piercings and such things. The second culture is ancient Egypt. Going back in time and investigating the cultures myths and legends. The symbolism behind the beautiful hieroglyphic script and the Ancient Egyptian imagery and symbols. Both cultures will be explored conceptually but also literally. Looking at things such as shape, silhouette and colours associated with the chosen cultures. Lone Melody has a strong emphasis on bold colour choices combined with exaggerated geometric shapes.For a unique and individual look. Both cultures will be moulded together to create a new and unique concept.
Contents Summer Work Trend Research Marketplace Music Culture Ancient Egyptian Culture Colour Palette Design Development Final Collection Final Look Working drawing Fabric Used and Manipulation Evaluation Bibliography & References
Summer Work Looking back to summer research as a starting point, Phyllida Barlow’s exhibition ‘Set’ which was located in the Fruitmarket Gallery in Edinburgh was revisited. ‘Set’ was a sculptural installation incorporating materials such as fabric, scrim and paper with wood, polystyrene, cement and plaster to make hybrid sculptures.It was arranged in such a way that the viewer, rather than standing still to view and appreciate the pieces, could walk around and sometimes through the sculptures, taking it in from many different angles. The various pastel shades such as pink and green splattered artistically throughout the exhibition will be considered when choosing the colour palette. The exhibition held a variety of interesting textures, rough and irregular juxtaposed against smooth and flowing. These textures could be investigated further, ways to recreate these textures in the collection either through fabric manipulation or print methods.
The above photograph conjures images of pleats.Particularly pleated skirts.
Interesting mixtures of rough and smooth textures.A stark contrast against each other.
Geometric shapes were a prominent feature throughout this exhibition.
Spring/Summer 2016 Deep Summer
‘Inspiration comes from the unexplored and imaginary, such as the deep sea and deep space. Cinematic backgrounds are vital for showcasing the bright, otherworldly colours, materials and shapes of this trend. Equally essential is the introduction of light effects and bioluminescent technology to design. Pattern, colour and texture are showcased in fresh ways, with watery, submerged and weightless aspects focused upon. By looking at nature in detail, we become aware of strange new technical and organic surface possibilities.’- WGSN. (6th June 2014). S/S16 Macro Trends: Deep Summer. Available: http://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/144551/page/1. Last accessed 7th November 2015.
Target Market & Market Research The brief specified the market place for the collection was to be high-end designer. Harvey Nichols in Edinburgh was visited as part of the research. The stores collections were investigated,looking at colour and style but more specifically sewing and finishing details.Stella McCartney was one designer investigated in the store,details such as closed seams and blind hems were found.
It was decided that the target market would be strong, independant females who like to stand out from the crowd. Aged between 2540, women who are still regarded as young but considerably more mature.They have a high disposable income and are more interested in buying statement pieces that will last rather than fast fashion pieces.Bold colours and interesting and unusual details attract this consumer.
Music Initially the link between music and mental health was investigated. How music, both playing and listening to, can evoke strong feelings and be an excape from reality,this evolved into the exploration of music events. Festivals,concerts and gigs were explored. Elements such as light displays, colours and shapes.Further analysis looked at the specific shapes of musical instruments, such as the guitar body, the strings...etc.
Looking at the shapes of tents and teepees it conjured images of studs on clothing. This technique will be considered when designing the collection. It not only visually represents teepees and tents from festivals, it also fits in with the rock and roll music culture, alternative and edgy.
Egypt Ancient Egyptian culture was next explored, looking to the hieroglypics and symbols that adorn the temples and tombs. Hieroglypics were a beautifully written language rich with symbolism which translates directly to the alphabet.
The Eye of Horus/ The Eye of Ra/ Wadjet The all seeing eye, the Eye of Horus is a powerful ancient egyptian symbol of protection, royal power and good health.
Next explored was egyptian dress. Different rankings wore different types of garments. The clothing was full of natural drape using the natural characteristics of the fabrics used to the wearers full advantage. Pleats were also a very prominent feature of the clothing. These characteristics will be considered for the Lone Melody collection, they could be modernised to make a unique look.
For the colour palette the trend Deep Summer was explored, while also looking at the chosen cultures for the global mash-up, Ancient Egypt and music. Looking at variations of eye catching greens from mint to aqua to mustard yellows and light browns withs pops of bright coloured blues, purples and pinks.
Toiles
As Part of the design process toiling was explored to help inform and inspire more garment and outfit ideas.Shapes from the Spring/Summer 2016 trend were initially explored as a starting point and then built on to make the designs more unique and relevant to the Globol Mash-up concept. Though this process inspired a number of new ideas, it was a bit too fluid and soft for the Lone Melody collection Nothing stood out as overly interesting or unique to be developed more thoroughly so a different route for design development was explored. Something more solid,stable and geometric was required to fit in with the theme for Lone Melody and thelook required.
Moving away from the toiling on the mannequin method shapes found in both the music and egyptian cultures were investigated in depth. Shapes such as triangular like the pyramids, the hieroglyphics and the traditional shapes of egyptian dress were explored as well as the shapes of guitar bodies, strings, light displays and found shapes from personal images. This process fit better with Lone Melody, as it allowed for more solid shapes to be designed, fitting in with both chosen cultures.
There were two types of trouser that seemed suitable for Lone Melody, so it was decided to try design a 2 in 1 trousers, for two different looks. A large flowing flare, that can also be buttoned into a straighter leg. This idea would be investigated and develoed further.
Final
Collection
Final look
The chosen top is based on the shape of an SG Epiphone guitar head.It has a high neckline and cut outs over the shoulders. To add more interest to the top, two panels were added in the top using a futuritic silver foil fabric, drawing inspiration from the trend deep summer. Cone shaped studs are also added to the garment, drawing inspiration from the teepee shapes investigated in the music culture. The shrug will be made from a clear, seethrough PVC material.The shape was taken from the egyptian costume of a semi-circular neck piece sometimes worn as jewellery, other times directly attached to garments. From sampling and experimentation it was realised that PVC is extremely hard to work with for sewing, so a design was made to the desired shape using no sewing. At the front eyelets were inserted so as a tie could be threaded through to hold the shrug in place and also close it.Inspiration was taken from Phyllida Barlows exhibition Set as paint was splattered on the shrug. For the trousers as discussed previously a design was devised that would allow the trousers to be two in one. Large flowing flares drawing inspiration from both the triangular shapes of the pyramids and also the light effects seen on stage at concerts. The second look for the trousers be a straight leg look, with a silver foil cuff. This would be carried out by attaching a panel of silver foil fabric on the inside of the leg, so as when it is turned up, the silver foil fabric will be on show. The leg will be tightened at the bottom by attaching snap fasteners on either side, closing the sides in together.
Working drawing
Fabric Used and Manipulation
Studs attached to fabric
It was noticed that the silver fabric was extremely delicate and under the slightest pressure it ripped. Though it ripped in an interesting pattern, this was instead used as a feature.
Evaluation Lone Melody was a collection designed for Spring/Summer 2016. It was designed for 25-40 year old females who make bold fashion choices and like to stand out from the crowd.It drew its inspiration from 2 opposing cultures. Music and Ancient Egypt. The outfit embodied both cultures as well as taking inspiration from Phyllida Barlows Set exhibition which was on show during the summer of 2015. All these concepts were merged together to come up with the collection Lone Melody. The top which was based on a guitars body hit a few problems along the way. All of which were noted, accepted and solved.The first was that the neck wasn’t wide enough to fit around a persons neck, this was sovled by opening the side seams and inserting elastic covered in the chosen fabric.This neatly fixed this problem, while also complementing the design. The next problem as previously stated in Fabric Manipulation was realising that the silver fabric was quite weak and ripped very easily, this was used as a unique twist to the fabric rather than purchasing a new fabric, or changing the design. Unfortunately the 2 in 1 trousers didn’t work out as well as had been imagined. The Flair was too wide to allow for a comfortable and neat fold up. When the trousers were folded up with sides buttoned together as the second look planned, on a body, the garment looked oversized and frumpy. Despite this look 1, the trousers as a flair fit well, looked stylish and sat and flowed well. Finally the shrug was finished well. Despite the fact that there is no sewing in this garment, it was designed with this purpose in mind.It sits nicely on the shoulders,and adds a unique twist to this outfit.
Colours chosen for the final outfit were based on the egyptian culture, though the greens and mustard browns were also seen in the Deep Summer trend. Lone melody encompassed both cultures well and stylishly,while also incorporating inspiration from the summer research every problem encountered was solved. Lone melody was a successful collection, achieving what it set out to.
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