Sunday, 24 July, 2011
Introspecting on
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the media
By Hashim bin Rashid
Lessons from Britain: The State is complicit everywhere
Britain, we have spoken about. Pakistan is our subject now (if only briefly). Media in the sub-continent was brought by the British. It felt it could control a public by controlling how they viewed events. As a study of history reveals how instances of people’s struggle were represented as instances of people’s barbarism in the colonial period and how the colonial state sought to check print media. In the 1920s, British officials sought changes in law to control press (in response to communalism in the Punjab and the non-cooperation movement in India) and attempted to offer subsidies to pro-government papers. The ‘carrot-stick’ approach of how the Pakistani post-colonial state dealt with media took roots in the earlier era. But, a number of other factors influenced the evolution of media. The entry of high capital in the picture post-independence and the entry of government tenders meant the newspaper industry (more and more business-like) could be manipulated by soft power: a set of unwritten rules to be followed. If a newspaper ran a story against an influential company, it would hold ads. If a newspaper ran a story against an influential government officer, it would withhold ads. A senior Ministry of Privitization officer once relayed to me that he had stopped ads to the leading English daily because they ran a story against him. That is soft power. Hard power has also been displayed in Pakistan. Leftist newspapers Imroz and Pakistan Times were shut and taken over respectively during military dictatorships. The Zia dictatorship knew the height of censorship. The current period in journalism is the period when journalism attempts to free itself from the State. The early Musharraf period shows an independent media that towed the government line. Only in 2007, when the powerhouse of Geo Television had been established, that a rupturing came. But that rupture signaled a shift. The agency to change policy moved back from government to media. Media-driven agendas have begun. The antiZardari, anti-PPP campaign has found itself at its fiercest in moments when the PPP attempted to check the power of the military. That the media unanimously turned on the PPP when it attempted to put the ISI under the Prime Minister’s control (2008) and the discourse around the PPP-favoured Kerry-Lugar bill (2009) revealed a set of hidden forces driving media agendas. ‘Hidden forces’ are not so hidden when one sits within a community of journalists. Who gets what from what agency are open subjects. Which story was ‘fed’ is also not too difficult to determine. For a number of critical stories over the past year, there has been no
Pathways to new journalism
The trouble with Pakistan is that libel laws are weak. In England, before the NOTW scandal broke out, a 20-year old history of libel against privacy invasions and misreporting existed. Pakistan has no such history and media houses accountability is weak. One of the first lessons one learns as a journalist is not to alienate the advertiser. A second lesson is that most reports remain bound within State law. It is, in fact, most interesting that a majority of investigative reports constitute the State violating its own principles (laws). In so many ways, the purpose of journalism has been defined as keeping the State from violating itself. But, here, journalism is both strong and weak. Certain aspects of the State it remains vocal on. Certain other, until recently, the military being prime example, it has not been critical of. However, media in Pakistan itself has a tortured history which continues with moments like Saleem Shahzad. Similar are the tales told by reporters in Balochistan. In order to progress, journalism in Pakistan must liberate itself from the State and capital. And neither is going to happen anytime soon. NOTW’s fall came due to the Guardian watch over it. In Pakistan, there is no watching over the watchers. And thus newspapers are not taken to task for blackmailing, for misreporting, for fabricating, for complicity. Maybe, a tradition of media houses watching over each other needs to begin – but some suggest that like England, if the secrets be laid bare, none would survive. But then it is the public’s right to watch over the watchers. And it is this right whose exercise threatens to bring down Rupert Murdoch’s once unbreachable empire.
Designed by Javeria Mirza
Critics have directed themselves towards News Corp and News of the World’s (NOTW) journalistic practices – and right so – but there is a story in the subtext that they are only subtly reflecting upon: in all deviations from journalistic ethics, state institutions were involved. Police officials were revealed to be those aiding the hacking and senior police officials were revealed to have put pressure on investigating newspapers (theGuardian editor revealed that the British Police Chief had questioned the credibility of a key story). Police had also employed ex-NOTW’s heads as media consultants in the same period. What was also revealed was that 10 Downing Street (the British PM) had hired the same individuals as media consultants. The British Prime Minister David Cameron’s admission, before a parliamentary committee upon seventh time of asking, that he held direct talks with News Corp officials over their bid to take over the Sky network and carve out the largest media network in the UK. The ‘friendship’ of former-News Corp chief executive Rebekah Brooks and the British PM is in question – but the question to ask is: what allows these friendships to take place? For answers, one has to understand the relationship between media and political power in the UK. Since the Murdoch entry into British media, all British governments have been backed by News Corp newspapers. Rupert Murdoch is known famously as a supporter of Margaret Thatcher was courted by Tony Blair to seek support for his election (which he duly received). Gordon Brown had a falling out with him, after which News Corp tabloids turned against him and helped oust him from office. And therefore David Cameron had to court News Corp to become elected prime minister. Rupert Murdoch brought on record meeting the PM through the 10 Downing Street backdoor after Conservative Party won the election backed by News Corp (which had a falling out with PM Brown) papers. The only positive to take from the scandal is the high possibility that stricter anti-monopoly and privacy laws may come about – but the struggle of the British journalist against Murdoch’s dominance and transformation of British journalism has only began. Murdoch’s newspapers, the Guardian and Independent aside, have been the identity of British
Lessons from Pakistan: un-freedom within a free media
Especially conspicuous were four stories, one, alleging a plot to kill the Lahore High Court Chief Justice, another, alleging the marriage of the President of Pakistan, a third, which popularised the Reko Dik with the writer backtracking the next day, and, a fourth, claiming India had caused last year’s floods. Sitting within media, the nexus between journalist unions and specific political parties also are known. How it works is that political party X funds election block A for the elections of a journalist body and offers incentives to members after the elections to ensure ‘good press.’ There is another dirty side. Journalism is tainted with bribe-seeking. Conversations with reporters reveal that they have heard the heads of major Urdu print agencies ask reporters to ‘become leeches.’ For a significant period of time, very few Urdu reporters, and only those belonging to established groups, were paid. It was an unwritten rule that the reporter ‘makes money for himself.’ The entry of capital, money and corporate advertisements, has changed some of these dynamics. Journalists are now better paid – or so most companies claim. But these practices continue.
2 A handshake for survival 8 Nature at its best
ny article claiming to offer critical insight on the media written within a media forum should be viewed with scepticism. It is likely that the writer is withholding a few punches to protect themselves from alienating their community and, more directly, their employers. And so should this article be viewed. The article begins by imagining the fascinating developments in the United Kingdom, where media mogul Rupert Murdoch has been brought to face a parliamentary inquiry, and the Chief Executive of News Corp (Murdoch’s company) been forced to resign.
journalism. The closure of NOTW in Britain was almost felt like the loss of a national institution (which is a poor reflection on a British public since the newspaper prided itself on privacy breaches, the very limits of which are under debate). The good debate that has come of the scandal is that journalists have asked: will there be a revival of investigative reporting? But since it has been a question – not a declaration of intent, whether journalistic ethics shall improve in the UK is a question for time to answer.
pire is m e a i d e rdoch m As the Mu lsewhere – let us de es dismantle journalistic practic on an introspect onopolies in Pakist am accountability. and medi
the review
NOTW’s fall came due to the Guardian watch over it. In By Khawaja Manzar Amin Pakistan, newspapers are not taken to task for blackmailing, for misreporting, for fabricating, for complicity
02 - 03
Sunday, 24 July, 2011
Illustrated by Sana Ahmed
the review
A handshake for survival A sea-change in the mutually inimical perception of Saudi Arabia and Iran is the key to bringing about an urgent stability and unity of action within the Muslim world
By Khawaja Manzar Amin
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t least some of the leading Muslim countries must band together at this critical juncture, otherwise the beleaguered Islamic world stands to lose everything, except its chains. We have seen powerful Muslim countries reduced to rubble, a prey to warnings and threats (the ‘do more’ syndrome), suffered invasions fed on lies and masked by greed of light crude, seen foreign troops swagger on our soil, borne unsolicited advice and unbearable intrusions in our internal affairs, watched helplessly as our sovereignty was violated time and again, experienced Balkanisation and breakup (East Timor and Sudan), witnessed imposed regime change… or else (‘Col. Qaddafi has lost legitimacy, he must go’), observed the plunder of our resources by ruthless exploiters, remained in danger of attack (‘all options are on the table’ ) for advances in space and nuclear technology, and read of the ‘sleepless nights’ spent by the likes of the Israeli defense minister Ehud Barak over our nuclear assets. Muslim nations appear paralysed and confused in the face of this onslaught. And more is in the offing, the blood-lust has not abated, the ‘flaming imperial anger of barbarous kings’ (now read presidents) seeks new victims to appease the drunkenness of power, national interests and electioneering gimmicks. The realpolitik lessons from the on-going aggression in Libya by the US, UK and France under the NATO fig-leaf are clear and unmistakable: never ever voluntarily surrender your strategic weapons, or you become a sitting duck for your ‘well-wishers’ whenever it suits their interests. The North Korean model or example is best suited in the times of the sole super power, its poodles and lackeys, and the pliant, highly- selective UNSC. A weakened enemy, holding vast reserves of black gold that specifically feeds the (now mostly bankrupt) European economies, is a prime candidate for invasion and regime change if he threatens the vital oil interests of the latter. Col. Muammar Qaddafi was reported to be re-negotiating with the entrenched western firms for a greater share of the oil profits, even talking of nationalisation due to plummeting international prices, which sent alarm bells ringing among the vested interests. But the wily Colonel has only himself to blame for his present predicament. In his usual dramatic fashion (after giving away billions of dollars to the Lockerbie crash victims to curry favour with the West and the UK in particular), he had called an end to his nuclear programme a few years ago, shipped his accumulated plans and hardware to the ‘friendly’ sole superpower, heaping as a residue not
a little calumny on Pakistan’s nuclear programme, in order to neutralise the threat of a regime change. But all this fawning and grovelling did him little good in (what seems to be) the end. So, expand and defend your strategic assets to the death, never even dream of being a Good Samaritan or a Boy Scout in this matter. A de-fanged country is an ‘open season’ invitation for aggression by all manner of enemies i n
these might is right, rule of the jungle, times. A little matter of passing United Nations Security Council Resolution
1973(2011) for ‘protection of civilians, enforcement of the arms embargo, a no-fly zone and asset freeze’ was sufficient reason for the French to start a full-fledged shooting war with the worried ‘permanent’ poodle also understandably entering into the fray. Although the French Foreign minister Alain Juppe was at his most pious and eloquent in introducing the resolution, it was the Arab League’s (whose member states are hardly paragons of human rights themselves) earlier request to the UNSC to enact a no-fly zone in Libya and the African Union’s (containing some of the world’s most violent countries) strong call for an end to violence, that clinched the issue of the fateful resolution 1973. If the Arab League had not in effect sided with the vested oil interests of the west, China might have vetoed the resolution.
And so another war of blatant aggression against an oil-rich Muslim country goes on, under the ‘just’ auspices of the UNSC, with nary a qualm of conscience in the aggressors over the killing of civilians, arming of the rebels in violation of the UNSC e m b a r g o , and most importantly, without even a
whimper from the Islamic world. Still, the Russian Federation and the People’s Republic of China, by their abstention (tantamount to
consent) during the crucial voting on resolution 1973(2011)
cannot absolve themselves from the subsequent NATO aggression in Libya, despite now talking in a different language of outrage and dismay. In order to remedy the current impossible situation, in which the leading Muslim countries are being taken out one by one on flimsy and hegemonic grounds, it is essential that initially, some of the Muslim states, like, Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Egypt and Saudi Arabia gather on one platform, possibly under the aegis of Turkey, for a firmly bolstered common front. The fact that religion has become such a divisive force in the endangered Islamic world of the 21st century sounds illogical, but unfortunately it is true. Our enemies are extracting maximum mileage from the historical sectarian dissentions, and like sleepwalkers we are helping them in their evil designs. Hence the necessity for the formation of a Muslim common bloc (its ‘vanguard’, so to speak)
before it i s too late. The very survival of a number of leading Islamic states is at stake here. Others are under threat of attack at any time. The West too had its barbaric religious wars in Europe over the centuries, but such conflicts are a thing of the past, although prejudices may linger (it was said that a Catholic could never become President of the USA until John F Kennedy debunked this myth). The last ‘war’ involving the two main Christian sects must be the Anglo-Irish ‘troubles’, but in this case religion was overshadowed by the ethnic rivalry of centuries and bitter memories of Irish famines and oppressive British landlords. It must be acknowledged that the root cause of the Muslim world’s
It must be acknowledged that the root cause of the Muslim world’s deadly sectarian problem (and even of the rise of extremism in some countries) lies in the mutual revulsion between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Islamic Republic of Iran, one an extreme Wahabi state, the other a staunch Shiite one, which the former perceives to be its greatest threat, even ahead of a nuclear armed Israel!
deadly sectarian problem (and even the rise of extremism in some countries) lies in the mutual revulsion between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Islamic Republic of Iran, one an extreme Wahabi state, the other a fanatically Shiite one, which the former perceives to be its greatest threat, even ahead of a nuclear armed Israel! Billions of dollars are being spent by Saudi Arabia and the Gulf sheikhdoms on acquiring sophisticated weapons from the West, ironically not for self-defence against the real enemy, but to checkmate Iran, which has boldly stood up to US, EU and Zionist threats and also braved their sanctions. Israel is openly encouraged to attack the nuclear facilities of the Islamic Republic of Iran, and the use of Arab air space is offered for this purpose! No wonder the miserable plight of the stateless Palestinians remains unchanged, as an arrogant Israel is further emboldened by this split in the Islamic world (as indeed by its nuclear arsenal and unequivocal US backing) to dominate the region and beyond. The reckless and unconcerned way in which it is building new settlements in occupied territories, its far right (but far from right) leadership, the preponderance of the hardline settlers in the military and in policy-making, its oft-repeated threats to attack Iran and habitual use of brute force points to its growing disdain for a fair Mid-East settlement. It is indeed an absurd state of affairs, defying all reason and logic, that a confirmed nuclear-armed Israel could be preferred over a potentially nuclear Iran in the Arab world. Three instances taken from veteran US journalist Seymour M. Hersh’s book on Israel’s covert nuclear programme, The Samson Option might shake the illusions and clear the misconceptions in the Arab elite about the real Zionist designs and their regional/global reach and aspirations: 1) New Israeli defense minister Ariel Sharon’s speech read out at the Institute of Strategic Studies at Tel Aviv University on 15/12/1981: Broaden Israel’s national security interests ‘to include, beyond the Middle East and Red Sea, states like Turkey, Iran and Pakistan, and regions such as the Persian Gulf and central and northern Africa’. Israel must now ensure its national security by being able to ‘influence events in a huge area stretching from Kenya in the south to Turkey, and from Mauritania in the west to Pakistan’. 2) Moshe Dayan, former defense minister and Army chief: ‘The Jewish people has a mission, especially in its Israeli branch. In this part of the world, it has to be a rock, an extension of the West, against which the waves of Arab nationalism will be broken’ (1958). 3) First Israeli prime minister David Ben-Gurion’s plan for a Middle East ‘settlement’ presented at the Sevres conference between the French and Israeli leaders in October 1956: ‘Jordan has no right to exist and should be divided. East of the Jordan River it will become part of Iraq, and Arab (that is, Palestinian) refugees will be settled there. The West Bank will be annexed to Israel as an autonomous region. Lebanon will get rid of its Muslim regions to assure stability based on the Christian part. The Suez Canal will be internationalized and the Red Sea straits will be under Israeli control’. The Arab leaders should ponder these innermost thoughts, uttered at a time when Israel was still a ‘dot on the map’, as compared to its present status and power. Hence, if the chasm between the two powerful rivals, the House of Saud and the Islamic Republic of Iran is not bridged in the face of the much dire threats confronting individual Muslim countries, irreparable harm will befall the entire Islamic world. O the other hand, in case of a much needed thaw (and Turkey can be a welcome and effective facilitator in this respect) a strong signal of unity would be sent both to the neo-con imperialists as well as to the Zionist and Indian lobbies, or should one say ‘axis’. The impact of the rapprochement will also be felt among the warring sectarian factions on the ground, the foot soldiers, who would cease their self-defeating in-fighting and end the needless bloodshed. With the threat of offending Saudi Arabia removed, Pakistan can accelerate the procurement of its gas and power needs from Iran, giving a much needed fillip to its industrial sector and ending the torture of its citizens due to the energy crisis. So, a sea-change in the mutually inimical perception of Saudi Arabia and Iran is the key to bringing about an urgent stability and unity of action within the Muslim world. One will have to renounce its ‘passion play’ crusading spirit, the other its knee-jerk hostility and air of superiority. Both must display flexibility, maturity and pragmatism in the interest of the larger Islamic world. The Iranian–Arab divide must go the way of the earlier Persian-Turkic divide – a minor footnote in the history books. And soon, for in the words of Omar Khayyam, ‘the bird of time… is on the wing’. Of course, we have also to start making a genuine effort to put our own house in order – no one can help us unless we help ourselves (but not in the current Islamabad meaning of the term!). And therein lies the rub – who or what will eradicate the ‘Al-Faeda’ terrorists haunting the capital?
Altaf Hussain’s Mein Kempf One of the most enigmatic individuals in our political panorama comes up with the narrative of his life and the birth of the MQM By Kunwar Khuldune Shahid
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n this turbulent epoch which we collectively seem to be traversing through, it is difficult to not be politically active at some level. So, when one of the most enigmatic individuals in our political panorama comes up with the narrative of his life – the attention scale is bound to amplify precipitously. “My Life’s Journey” is a translation of the book “Safar-e-Zindagi”, which is based on a lengthy interview of Altaf Hussain – the leader of the influential party MQM (Muttahida Qaumi Movement) that has since the 1980s scored big electorally in the urban centres of Sindh. The book has been partitioned into two distinct portions and thirty-seven enthralling chapters – each of which can be considered an inimitable rapid fire question; and Mr. Altaf Hussain launches a blitzkrieg of responses of his own. The first part of the book titled “The Struggle and Birth of the MQM” commences by taking us all the way back to 1964 and the infamous Ayub Khan-Fatima Jinnah elections, which bifurcated Karachi into ‘Pakhtuns’ and ‘Muhajirs’. The latter being on the losing side austerely came under the Pakhtun gun. The nucleus of the entire Muhajir movement originates from the scars of 1964. “This episode left a deep impression in my mind. That was the first time I realized that there was a parochial bias in our environment; that there was an element that discriminated people on ethnic lines. There was constant talk of who was a Sindhi, Punjabi, or Pakhtun. Nobody ever called themselves Pakistani.” – (Chapter 1 Page 4) 1965 was the year when a wave of patriotism swept across the country, and young Altaf Hussain’s emotions were stirred profoundly. That was the time when aspirations for medical excellence were supplanted by the desire to stand up tall on the front, which eventually saw the adolescent warrior qualify for the National Cadet Service Scheme. In a mock training skirmish a few utterances of his sergeant transformed his line of action again. “Who selected you in the army? You people from Karachi; living in big cities; drinking tea; wearing teddy trousers! How can you fight a war?” –(Chapter 1 Page 11) These discriminatory remarks by the sergeant and the fetid exclamations that followed steered the young boy towards another front – one he continues to adhere to. After the completion of his B.Sc. degree from Islamia Science College, Altaf Hussain got admitted into B. Pharmacy at the University of Karachi. A variety of academic related protests and minor college remonstrations later, Altaf Hussain was stealthily en route to political headship. Through his early encounters with the Students’ Union, the presence of a score of ethnic banners and groups boggled his mind and led him towards an identity crisis. The query regarding the absence of a Muhajir banner was superseded by the reservation regarding the need of any ethnic dissection at all. The quest for the solution of this conundrum would take over Altaf Hussain’s entire student life - and more. The book continues with the depiction of Altaf Hussain’s role in the Nizam-e-Mustafa Movement PNA (Pakistan National Alliance) coupled with his desire to limit national categorization to within the realm of ‘Islam’ and ‘Pakistan’. His eloquent speeches started winning the hearts of those around him and he started coping with the offshoots of his nascent stardom. “… as I was descending the stage after giving a speech, a little boy came to me with his autograph book and a pen. It was the first time anybody had asked me for an autograph and my mind went completely blank… It was only when the child prodded me with, ‘Altaf Bhai, won’t you give me your autograph?’ that I collected myself and nervously wrote my signature in the child’s book.” –(Chapter 6 Page 29) Altaf Hussain realised that the PNA was not the all-embracing solution to the Muhajir issue, and that the Sindhi-Muhajir ill-feeling was aggravated by the relentless language clashes. He cites the root of this animosity
the ‘conspiracy of the exploiting class’. The aforementioned apprehensions led to the birth of the APMSO (All-Pakistan Muhajir Students’ Organization). The struggle engulfing the inception, maintenance and survival of the organization form the core of the book. The below-thebelt antagonism of more established groups, the launch of a rival ‘Muhajir’ organization; Altaf Hussain’s comrades had to rely on their resoluteness, loyalty and meager donations for survival. “… some would say, ‘Maaf karo’, as though we were beggars but we did not mind and continued on doggedly to the next shop. I have personally been given even paltry amounts like 10 or even 5 paisas to add to our fund.” –(Chapter 9 Page 40) The hardships surrounding the task of APMSO strengthened the companionship amongst the group. Every single member considered the mission their personal battle, and in Altaf Hussain they had the stalwart to guide them. Violence against the organization escalated as soon as they started gaining popularity in Students’ Union Elections; when the antipathy was blown out of proportion Altaf Hussain was about to cave in… “When I said that we would have to fold up the Muhajir flag and wind up our work every one of my colleagues in the room began to sob. They wept as people weep when they lose a close relative.” –(Chapter 13 Page 60) And so he knew that the group was here to stay… Part I of the book ends with the tragic accounts of Sohrab Goth and Hyderabad killings following the launch of MQM in 1984, and their historical gathering at Nishtar Park. “To my knowledge it was the first meeting in which there were torrential rains but, even as it poured voices shouting ‘Nara-eMohajir, Jeeay Mohajir’ grew louder.” –(Chapter 14 page 64) The second part of the book titled “Notes on Important Issues and the Mohajir Movement” focuses on the elaboration of the MQM ideology. It starts off with the continuation of directly proportional link between the party’s fame and the rivals’ aggressive antipathy. The MQM’s triumph in the Local Bodies’ Elections catapulted them towards unparalleled esteem and in turn guided them towards a new line of action. A statement issued after the victory stated: “… I instruct the ‘Haq Parast’ councilors that, starting from today, they must demonstrate that they are not the representatives of the Muhajirs only; they must serve our Punjabi, Pakhtun, and other compatriots evenhandedly, just as they would serve Muhajirs.” (Chapter 16 Page 79) In fact most of the second half is dedicated to the clarification that MQM is not antagonistic towards the Punjabis or the Pakhtuns. If members of either of the two communities were to live in Sindh, they would have the same rights as the Muhajirs in accordance to MQM’s manifesto. Another clarification is of the trepidations regarding MQM’s ostensible efforts to divide Sindh in the 80s; whereas the truth was that all Altaf Hussain clamored for was proportional representation within the province in
Altaf Hussain divides opinion like a knife through the axis of a block of butter. He has his devotees and his detractors compliance with the population. Most of the tail-end of the book is utilized to inculcate the concept of nationality, its evolution and how it encompasses the interior of the Muhajirin. Three of Altaf Hussain’s Jail Experiences are also presented with appalling portrayals. “There was no question of lying down; there was hardly any place to sit. The open toilet was overflowing and bugs were crawling out of it.” –(Chapter 17 Page 82) Some scornful comments about the Punjab Police-esque criteria for selection of smaller built Sindhi officers and a cheeky punt at Pir Sahab Pagara are noteworthy constituents of the later half as well. Hot issues of that time ‘The Kalabagh Dam’ and ‘MQM’s Afghan Policy’ are extrovertly clarified – the latter of the two being juxtaposed with similar catastrophic conditions in Bangladesh which not too long ago was our integral part. The continuous enmity with the MQM, from various quarters, has been ridiculed in detail and there’s a myriad of arguments pertaining to self-defense. “Why do the public continue to support us? Because, in the last forty years, no councilors were ever seen to sweep the roads or clear the gutter with their own hands.” –(Chapter 32 Page 143) To wrap it up, “My Life’s Journey” gives us an insight into a larger than life political personality up till 1988. Matthew A. Cook’s foreword provides the academic standpoint before the actual book unravels before the reader. Altaf Hussain divides opinion like a knife through the axis of a block of butter. He has his devotees and he has detractors. Regardless of which side of the knife you’re on if you want to solve the mystery of how a man controls the emotions of a lion’s share of an educated and upwardly mobile ethnic community in our southern province from thousands of miles away – this book can go a long way in helping you.
the review
Dystopia now Shteyngart reminds you that you are not a gadget but might soon turn into one By Anum Yousaf
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here is nothing that cements your hipster cred more than horn-rimmed wayfarer specs and being featured in The New Yorker (as if teaching creative writing at Columbia wasn’t enough). Gary Shteyngart can tick all these boxes. He was heralded by The New Yorker in its ‘20 under 40’ (which were declared the future of contemporary English fiction) and then therefore catapulted into the limelight in a way that he couldn’t manage to after his under-the-radar but plenty audacious debut novel “The Russian Debutante’s Handbook” and sophomore offering “Absurdistan”. His third novel “Super Sad True Love Story” got much more space in the limelight. It in many ways carried and built upon the tropes of his first novels and showcased how Shteyngart has
found his voice as the novel is peppered with much of his signature quirks and writing tics that not only embellish his previous novels but also accentuate much of his journalistic writing in many artsy fartsy journals. He belongs to a new generation of writers in postmodern, or should I say post-postmodern English fiction, that have populated our shelves with books that equally preface style with substance. The good thing about Shteyngart is that he, much unlike some of his preciously pompous contemporaries, has a point to make which is not lost amongst the vicissitudes of his craft. There is a seriousness of purpose that peeks through the satirical caprices of his prose and there is even political undertones to his work which art-for-arts-sake writers of today are loath to deal with. This novel “Super Sad True Love Story” is set in a dystopian America and chronicles the improbable love story of Lenny Abramov,
a 39 year old Russian Jewish immigrant (like the author himself), and Eunice Park, a young Korean immigrant majoring in ‘Images’ and ‘Assertiveness’. The love story is very unsettling and awkward and Shteyngart very vividly captures its awkwardness, actually revels in foregrounding it and using it as a cornerstone to build upon the many points that the novel wants to make such as the unlikely places where one may find companionship, the place of “MayDecember” relationships in a fast-changing world and how technology affects the way we form relationships. Indeed, how an oldworld Abramov (he still reads books in a world where they have gone the way of the dodo) communicates discomfitedly with a techsavvy new-world Park who is always connected to an array of gadgetry and its paraphernalia chronicles how all this technology is eroding the conventional means of getting to know another
A matter of trust
The book is an in-depth study of the hawala issue not only from an economic angle but also from an acad
04 - 05
Sunday, 24 July, 2011
By Syed Afsar Sajid
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r. Edwina A. Thompson has specialized in the ‘hawala’ system and its global socio-historical dynamics. She has been working with INGOs, the UN, Red Cross and the military in difficult geo-political milieu like Somalia, Sudan, Sri Lanka, Papua New Guinea, Pakistan and Afghanistan. “Hawala (or sometimes ‘hundi’) is an informal value transfer system based on the performance and honour of a huge network of money brokers, which are primarily located in the Middle East, North Africa, the Horn of Africa (Eritrea, Djibouti, Ethiopia and Somalia), and South Asia.” In this system money is transferred through a wide network of hawala brokers commonly known as hawaladars. No promissory instrument is executed in
the process and the whole transaction is carried out on the ‘honour system’. The ‘forwarding’ broker from a given city receives the money (on consideration of a small commission) and instructs the ‘clearing’ broker at the other end, usually in a foreign locale, to deliver it to the designated recipient under a verbal promise to settle the ‘debt’ at a later date. Customers are enamoured of hawala because of the fast and convenient movement of their money. In some countries hawala is seen to be a sort of money laundering facilitating anonymous movement of wealth by neutralizing tax, currency control, immigration, or other concerns; yet in certain other countries hawala is a compulsory option for legitimate funds transfers across the globe. As an aftermath of the 9/11 episode the image (or credibility) of the hawala operations has been considerably tarnished especially in the western world. Anti-money laundering initiatives have been launched on a global scale to subvert terrorism, drug smuggling and piracy. This introductory will help the reader better grasp the theme and content of the book being reviewed. Ironically ‘trust’ is the coin of the intriguing realm of hawala. Dr. Wesley W. Widmaier of Griffith University, Australia in a review of the book says
that “based on extensive field and archival research into the workings of hawala – an ancient financial system operating throughout the Muslim world, accused of bankrolling the bulk of today’s terrorist operations, but central to development in fragile states – this book shines a rare light on local-level institutions in Afghanistan and tribally-controlled areas of neighbouring Pakistan”. He goes on to say that the book “indicates that the future reconstruction of Afghanistan hinges on whether the international community can engage genuinely with indigenous socio-economic networks like those of the ‘money men’, for it is trust that emerges ultimately as the ‘coin of the realm’, not only in the bazaar, but also against the backdrop of counter-insurgency and statebuilding efforts within the region”. Trust is the Coin of the Realm – Lessons from the Money Men in Afghanistan owes its leading title to Admiral Michael G. Mullen, US CJCS as the following quote (2009) from him would reflect: “We have learned after seven years of war that trust is the coin of the realm – that building it takes time, losing it takes mere seconds, and maintaining it may be our most important and most difficult objective.” The author has dwelt at length on the paradox that on one hand there is an implicit endorsement of the
‘A fascinating foray down the alleys of the ‘hawala’ world, this book is as rich in its insights as it was daring in its research. There are lessons here for both policy makers and scholars, for the concerned citizen as well as the international expert’ role of money dealers in emergency relief or state-building practice, “while on the other hand, there is an explicit negative construction of hawala in the policy world”. The book stipulates a study and scrutiny of the hawala issue not only from an economic angle but also from an academic one. The book is divided into four
He belongs to a new generation of writers in post-postmodern English fiction that have populated our shelves with books that equally preface style with substance person and often amplifying the insecurities we carry around. For instance, people use technology to chase immortality in the novel but it just reminds them of how elusive this goal is and how everything in transient and life but fleeting. Their love story is set in an America which is virtually ungovernable, which is half true today, and its currency is pegged to the Chinese Yuan, which is probably going to be true soon enough. The socio-political setting of the novel takes potshots at our world today; at the many contradictions of this globalised world order we live in; how a crumbling economy is based on hyper-consumerism and debilitating inegalitarianism. This is a truly sad fact about the novel. It is supposedly set in a dystopian future but all the things that it sketches out seem uncannily real in today’s world. For instance, everybody in this world communicates through little contraptions called ‘apparati’ which broadcasts a person’s entire information as they meet someone. Sounds a lot like smart phones and our social media profiles on facebook, Google plus, twitter and what not. Plus, the political disaffectations of
this book’s generation sound much like those we are surrounded in. A religiously-inclined in-your-face proselyte, a faddish activist and a person who is fed up with politics: these aren’t just characters in this novel but people we’ve all met. Another such instance where a dystopian fact is all too familiar: the most prestigious occupations in this world are Media and Credit, the two things which define the contours of our world today. The novel is epistolary (written in a series of diary entries and chat-logs) which is itself a comment on how our lives operate. Our lives too are now epistolary and ersatz. We live our lives in little snippets: on newsfeed updates, on twitter timelines, one text message to the next. I am sure there is a mathematical correlation between how many times we press the refresh button and how much we sublimate the online stream for our loneliness. Shteyngart himself says in an essay in New York Times Book Review: “With each post, each tap of the screen, each drag and click,” he confesses, “I am becoming a different person—solitary where I was once gregarious; a content provider where I at least once imagined myself an artist; nervous and constantly updated where I once knew the world through sleepy, half-shut eyes . . . With each passing year, scientists estimate that I lose between 6 and 8 percent of my personality.” And this is the gloomy idea that animates his novel
Long, wondrous Harry Potter voyage As the cliché goes, ‘let’s not be sad that it’s over; let’s be happy that it happened’
But this undercurrent of sorrow is given a paintjob of wit and satire. Shteyngart is funny and some of his jabs are coruscating but others are dull and hackneyed and something you’d expect from the MFA brigade: all word play and no import. The novel is written with ebullience which is in sharp contrast to its dejected storyline but this flashiness isn’t enough. The novel ambles along at a glacial pace taking time and too many words to get from point A to point B. At the end of the day, its dystopian but diluted dystopia-lite, not Orwell-scale frightening. The novel is a good read, a suitable but unoriginal cultural critique and a true but slightly cookie-cutter indictment of the world where we are turning ourselves into gadgets. It’s sad, not super sad. But all these MFA-types oversell their creativity. I guess readers will have to live with that.
demic one major heads with nine chapters in toto. Since it is a research work, it is duly supplemented and supported with all necessary facts and figures. The author avers that “the book’s focus on hawala in particular also serves as a compass for directing attention to broader concerns at the global level, such as global economic governance and security, and challenges at the national and local levels related to post-conflict (when ‘throughout the ‘nineties’ and ‘noughties’, at least two-thirds of the world’s poorest countries either experienced active conflict or an insecure peace’) reconstruction and humanitarian action in ‘failed’ and failing states”. The study projected through the book in question is based on what is termed as a ‘snowball’ or ‘chain referral’ sampling method aimed at investigating economic order in crisis and its legitimacy dynamics in the context of hawala. The author has employed the discipline of IR to guide the direction of the book She has conducted a series of personal interviews with money dealers on the soil of Afghanistan, situated as it is in the figurative ‘amphitheatre’ of the global war on terror. And now the concluding comments on the book as aptly voiced by Os Ginness, an IR expert and a Senior Fellow of the EastWest Institute (New York), while appraising it!: “A fascinating foray down the alleys of the ‘hawala’ world, this book is as rich in its insights as it was daring in its research. There are lessons here for both policy makers and scholars for the concerned citizen as well as the international expert. If we insist on behaving as ‘ugly Westerners’, Thompson leaves us without excuse.”
Title: Trust is the Coin of the Realm Lessons from the Money Men in Afghanistan Author: Edwina A. Thompson Publisher: Oxford University Press, Karachi Pages: 354; Price: Rs.995/-
By Fatima Ahmed
“T
his will be the last Harry Potter film?”, my mum inquired after witnessing my pronounced jubilation and excitement at its release. “Ab Harry Potter say related aur kuch tou nae aye ga, tou matlab this is the end?” Upon hearing these words, a sinking feeling replaced my initial excitement. So this was really it. Harry Potter was actually coming to an end! But, can it really ever completely end? I am sure there are many like me out there for whom Harry Potter is much more than just a book. It is a symbol of our childhood and early adolescence. We have grown up along with Harry, Ron and Hermione, laughed at Fred and George’s jokes, loathed Draco with all our heart, cursed Snape, loved Dumbledore, mourned Dobby’s death, rejoiced when Ron and Hermione finally got together and prayed endlessly for Harry’s triumph. Harry Potter has been a long and marvelous journey and evokes many fond memories. The first time I started reading the book and ran to my mum asking her how to pronounce Hermione. Sitting at my desk and staring intently at my aquarium glass in the hope that it would disappear. The various scolding that I had to endure because I would be found reading some Harry Potter book instead of doing my homework. Stocking up on Harry Potter mugs, pencil cases, key chains, posters or any other such item I could get my hands on was the done thing – not to be missed, regardless of the rather steep prices and limited pocket money. Then there were never-ending discussions with friends during school break, on which character was our favourite, what would happen in the next book and how the latest film had disappointed us. And my vehement defence with regards to my obsession on rereading the books, for my cousins could not fathom why I would want to read the same books over and over again. In those days, the most important use of the internet for me was visiting
Mugglenet and other such websites almost everyday. I would cut any clippings regarding Harry Potter that I would come across in the newspapers (an ongoing passion that I still indulge in!). I remember finishing the sixth book in one night after it got released because I was expecting guests the next day. I find no shame in admitting to having cried like a baby at Dumbledore’s death. I read the fan fiction books on Deathly Hallows, argued with friends about whether Snape was good or bad, Dumbledore dead or alive and whether Harry would survive or not and scanned the entire Harry Potter blogs and websites for clues on what
Harry Potter is a parallel world in which all Potter heads dwell, waiting anxiously for their letter from Hogwarts to expect. I even asked my mum to pray that no one from the trio dies. Then, when I got my hands on the final book, with what difficulty I overcame the temptation to read the last page! And once I emerged from my room after having finished it, my parents asked in unison, “Harry mara tou nai?” Harry Potter is a parallel world in which all Potter heads dwell, waiting anxiously for their letter from Hogwarts. Yes, the film Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 2 will be the last film and the last official venture of the Harry Potter series. But the smiles, the tears that it has given us shall remain etched forever in our hearts. The characters will live on in our memories. We will read the books and watch the movies repeatedly, without ever getting bored. We shall remain diehard Potter fans, forever. Thank you, J.K Rowling, for the uncountable wonderful moments that we shall cherish to the rest of our days. As the cliché goes, ‘let’s not be sad that it’s over; let’s be happy that it happened’. Harry Potter, the boy who lived – the boy who lives on!
Sunday, 24 July, 2011
It is no surprise that a clutch of illnesses should be the lot of a community of 20,000 souls that has forever lived on contaminated water e open tank in th ry. Notice the ne hi ac m ng ur yi The water purif water for the people of Hajip king source of drin
been the
Pictures by the Author
The machinery and in the background the overhead tank from the now defunct 2004 water supply scheme
at has always
background th
Nowhere to go Though there is hope, it has yet to be seen however when the poor folks of Hajipur get the promised water supply going
By Salman Rashid
‘W
e would migrate if we could. But we are stuck; we have nowhere to go.’ Mohammad Nawaz all of fifty-five years old says with utter, desperate hopelessness. A hum of agreement rises from the forty odd men sitting with him in the derelict pump room of an old water supply scheme. These people do not desire displacement for fear of terror attacks or nuclear disaster or any other such difficulty. These are but humdrum nuisances compared to their problem. The trouble that the people of village Hajipur have always known is the non-availability of potable water. Situated thirteen kilometers west of Fazilpur in Rajanpur district, Hajipur lies an equidistant east of the bleak, treeless line of the Suleman Mountains. Through the millennia the drainage washing the eastern slopes of this hill range have deposited vast amounts of minerals, including salt, on the flat, arid plains between the mountains and the Indus Highway (N-55) that runs north-south through the district. The salts leaching into the ground over the years have rendered subsoil water in the sub-montane region bitter and unpalatable. No surprise then that wells are unknown in the area. For as long as villages like Hajipur have existed, their water needs were met by the seasonal streams running down the slopes of the Suleman. But in that arid desert, the streams ended up trapped in pools where subterranean limestone kept them from disappearing into the ground. In the other case, the mineral-laden water was soaked up to poison the aquifer. Nawaz remembers the time when rains, whether summer or
winter, were a signal for men armed with digging implements to go up to the point where the streams broke out from the mountains. The gushing waters were then trained from pool to pool across the dozen kilometers of parched wasteland to as near as they could be brought to Hajipur. These stagnant pools served as the sole water source for the village. In times of drought, things got very bad and water had to be carted in at heavy expense from sweet wells near Fazilpur. During the early 1960s, the government laid a water supply from Fazilpur to Hajipur. The scheme was very welcome, but the plastic-vinyl pipe stretched the whole way on the surface. Being the way we are, without a sense of belonging to a country, shepherds and passers-by punctured the pipe wherever they pleased to water their herds or quench their own thirst. Within weeks of being laid, the water supply failed because of the callousness of Pakistani people. In 1979, the government bequeathed to Hajipur its second water supply scheme. A distributary taking off from Dajal Branch canal, brought water to two newly prepared water tanks in the village. Unlined to begin with, the tanks were brick-lined at some point in the past thirty years. But the supply channel remained unlined and open to the elements and to human and animal intervention. Those who drank the water drawn from the tanks knew others were bathing and doing their laundry in the supply channel and that the water was also laced with animal excreta. It was seen too that farmers washed their spraying machines in the channel. Consequently, when all sorts of gastric ailments, hitherto unknown, afflicted them, many people recognized the cause: their sickness was due to the contaminated water they were drinking. But they had no choice. It was either this or the Suleman runoff. Of course they also had the highly brackish subsoil water that even cattle found unpalatable. The people of Hajipur, unable to lavish anything else on visiting dignitaries heaped them with pleas for a water supply scheme. From the local parliamentarian to the district officers, all faced a barrage of entreaties for a clean drinking water scheme. The politicians, always being local tribal chiefs, were no less than demi-gods
in whose presence poor folks could only cringe and beg and yet remain unheard. As for the bureaucrats who lorded over the district, they were, said one man, no better than the private serfs of the powerful politicians. All supplications for water fell on deaf ears. In 2004, the government of Abu Dhabi gifted a sweet water supply system to Hajipur. Five turbines worked by an equal number of twentyfive horsepower electric motors pumped water from Fazilpur wells across farmlands to an overhead tank in the village. And so, for the first time, the people of Hajipur, all 2600 households plus the roughly four hundred of satellite villages (a total of 20,000 souls) got their first taste of tasteless, odorless and colourless water. Now, a twenty-five horsepower motor soaks up vast amounts of electric power – five of them five times as much. Power costs money and the Tehsil Municipal Authority (TMA) which had taken charge of the system from the Abu Dhabi builders, failed to pay the electricity dues. The electric supply company killed the supply and barely after six months of operation the system shut down all of a sudden. All entreaties to the TMA to restore the supply were met with one response: there was no money to pay the dues running into millions of rupees. Meanwhile, other things happened: first the pump house transformer burned out, and then the floods of 2005 wrecked some additional damage on the pipeline. Hajipur users of the water supply knew that they were doomed to return to the supply of their contaminated open water tanks. And to it did they once again revert. It is no surprise that a clutch of illnesses should be the lot of a community of 20,000 souls that has forever lived on contaminated water. Consequently anyone tested from among them turns up Hepatitis A positive. Throat infections and dysentery were rampant as indeed were renal complaints including stones. These last, according to a doctor, being because of low water intake. Fateh Mohammad, who worked as the valveman for the TMA scheme and who, despite being on the roles,
has not received any salary since its closure says he suffered from peculiar gastric troubles. ‘For five years I ate only so much as to keep myself going. Five years I had no appetite, only flatulence,’ he says. ‘We are all terribly sick people in Hajipur and it seems that so far as the state of Pakistan is concerned, we do not exist.’ He is not alone. Everyone has a roster of illnesses, surgeries (mostly for kidney stones) and the regular visits to doctors. Many have stopped referring to doctors for fear of being told of yet another ailment that afflicts them. And all because of a contaminated water supply. In February 2011 things changed for Hajipur when the NGO Sungi in partnership with Norwegian Church Aid carried out a survey in the area. A water treatment plant installed in Madyan (Swat) subsequent to the flood havoc of August 2010 had become redundant because of the restoration of the town’s water supply. The NCA-Sungi survey determined that Hajipur was as apt a beneficiary for the plant as any. One of the existing water tanks was repaired to hold the 20,000-liter water bladder. The plant comprising of a coagulation unit, a percolation unit and two filters (one sand, the other carbon) was installed. Water, heavy with slime and silt, was drawn from the open tank and after due machine process was stored in the bladder and chlorinated. Now, the average daily use of potable water for the 20,000 souls of Hajipur and its catchment is 60,000 liters. Consequently, the unit was required to run 24/7. Worked by one diesel and one petrol engine in rotation, the system kept the bladder filled to deliver clean water by two water points, one each for women and men. This was the second time in the life of any fifty year-old of Hajipur that he or she had water as drinking water should be. When I was in Hajipur in late June, everyone I met had a general feeling of well-being and they connected it to the good quality of water. The periodic doctor’s visits were fewer, their food tasted better and their appetites had returned. But there is a downside to this happy scene. The people of Hajipur knew that the water treatment plant was only loaned them for a short period.
Indeed, initially planned for three months, NCA extended the loan by another three in view of the pressing need of the community. But all good things must come to an end. And for the people of Hajipur this end came only too soon. Desperate that they will soon lose their only source of clean drinking water, they plead with anyone that visits them. Never mind who the visitor, for these utterly distressed people every comer is a bringer of hope and they cling to him to hear the words that the plant will stay. As you read these lines, the water purification plant has already been removed. But there is some good news for Hajipur: restoration of the long-dead supply of good water from Fazilpur is on the cards. And this was made possible only because the community, galvanised by the NCA intervention, acted as one man to demand from the government what they most needed. Though there is hope, it has yet to be seen however when the poor folks of Hajipur get the promised water supply going. –Salman Rashid, rated as the best in the country, is a travel writer and photographer who has travelled all around Pakistan and written about his journeys.
Being the way we are, without a sense of belonging to a country, shepherds and passersby punctured the pipe wherever they pleased to water their herds or quench their own thirst. Within weeks of being laid, the water supply failed because of the callousness of Pakistani people
closing bell GARFIELD
aries
taurus
geMini
Try not to get too tense or stressed-out if you find yourself frustrated in your efforts to make progress. Your senses should really be working overtime. And your ability to understand others could help to draw you closer to some positive opportunities right now.
Home or family issues may be absorbing too much of your attention right now. You might feel that others have been taking advantage of you in some way. But even if you're right, don't put yourself at a disadvantage by reacting emotionally.
It is time now for you to do something to enhance your career prospects by joining a new course in the related field. Professionals engaged in marketing sectors are likely to fulfill their goals, as they are successful in achieving their targets.
cancer
leo
Virgo
You need to be able to hold practical values as well as looking for things that are beyond price. This is great time to do good for humanity in general. Friends will be helpful in your personal matter. Don’t make false promises.
Negotiation in contracts and private plans are very favorable for you this week. Take care of your diet. This is good period for recovering dues. opt for long term saving plans. Health and children will need your attention. At meetings, heavy discussions need to be handled properly.
Friends are full of bright ideas. Useful information is expected from professionals. Use your psychology to tackle a sensitive person. More hardwork and focus is needed for student’s careers. At the end of this week a close relative may create some trouble.
liBra
scorPio
sagittarius
A cheerful week for players and sports related persons. Political leaders may feel fresh. Family and children will enjoy the week. Financial troubles will reduce, however, love life will pass through a very rough phase.
Verbal agreements that you make will not be easy to get out of. Do not allow people to influence the way you spend your money. Some jealous people can harm you; keep away from the friends who are not faithful to you. Try to shake off negativity and replace it with a good perspective.
You will get a lot of energy, it is probably a good idea to start a new project or make some new friends. Those having a problem in their relationships/marriages will be able to solve amicably. Means of prosperity remain fruitful.
caPricorn
aQuarius
Pisces
You could feel uncomfortable about having to carry certain secrets. But if you reveal them, things could blow up in your face right now. Let others reveal their souls, but remember to play your cards close to the vest.
Some positive work and health developments should be heading your way at this time. Some interesting new opportunities could be available to you, and you should be feeling fairly optimistic right now as well. Try not to let yourself get defensive, impatient or argumentative.
You might need to review and repeat things a number of times until they are right, but persistence and attention to detail could be your key to success. While you are retracing your steps and analyzing things, you might discover hidden solutions to some longstanding problems.
SUDokU
By Sana
Fill in all the squares in the grid so that each row, column and each of the squares contains all the digits. the object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once.
Today’s soluTions
U.S. DomInAtIon
chESS BLACK TO PLAY AND MATE IN 4 MOVES 8 7 6 5 4 3
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
chess solution
1
2.Rdh1 Rh8
2
1...Be7
1. equality 2. method 3. anarchy 4. charged atom 5. ignore 6. furthermore 7. abbr. lieutenant 8. comrade 12. ploy 14. watchful 15. provoke 17. constitutional 18. dishonor 22. blade 24. intimidation 25. clash 27. furious 28. organic ammonia compound 29. acronym. Young nation 31. disciplined 33. grime 34. consumed 37. harmony 41. hot beverage
BRIDGE
4.f4 Bxh4 *
1. not operating properly 9. go into 10. maintain 11. acronym. Garbage disposal 12. enemy 13. skein of thread 16. shovel 19. rug 20. acronym. Immediate constituents 21. contender 23. stretch 24. wax 26. whole 30. test 32. taking place 33. distant 35. tart 35. prickle 37. arena 38. wreath 39. grommet 40. decorative box 42. berate 43. insolent
how to pLAy
Political leaders aPPear More Bent on engaging in shouting Matches rather than Joining together to address the ProBleMs that threaten Pakistan
3.Qxg5 Bxg5+
DoWN
By Sana
sudoku solution
Across
woRD SEARch
crossword solution
cRoSSwoRD
DILBERt
Nature at its best
Deosai, an absolutely treeless wilderness of comparatively level country framed by minor peaks, gives a unique impression of desolation By Yasir Nisar
P
akistan is no doubt bestowed with an abundance of physical beauty by Allah Almighty. Such a variation and diversity in the landscape cannot be found in almost any other country of the world. The mountains, archaeological sites, deserts, hilly areas and cities all provide great tourist attractions. While at one end of the country you can find picturesque beaches, lagoons and mangrove forests, the other end provides access to the magnificent, lofty peaks of the Himalayan, the Karakorams and the Hindu Kush mountain ranges, with the K2 (8611 m.) marking the final challenge to Alpinists. The lush green valleys of Chitral, Swat, Kaghan, Hunza and Skardu are ideal destinations for those who want to soak in the beauty of north and few places in the world can compare to the northern Pakistan with its combination of soaring mountains, shimmering glaciers, crystal clear water streams and flower bedecked Alpine pastures. In addition, the gentle, warm and hospitable character of the villagers makes a trip to this part of the world a truly unforgettable experience. Pakistan also contains a lot of National Parks and plateaus. Of these, the Deosai Plains is possibly the most beautiful National Park of
Pakistan and is known worldover for its wildlife and scenic wonders. Deosai Plateau, also known as the Deosai National Park, is among the highest plateaus in the world, located at an average height of 13,500 feet above sea level. This vast, uninhabited stretch of land covers an area of almost 3,000 square kilometres. For nearly eight months between late October and May – Deosai is snow-bound. In the summer months when the snow clears up, it becomes accessible. The Deosai Plains are located close to the Indian-held Kashmir border and can be accessed from Skardu from around 50 kilometers to its North and the picturesque valley of Astore from its west. The Plains are strategically packed between the soaring Himalayas and the breathtaking Karakoram Range, and are, themselves, part of the Pangri Range of the Himalayas. The Plains are accessible either by foot or on a 4x4 jeep, since there are no metal roads,
only a jeep track connecting the Deosai between Skardu and Astore Valley. From Skardu, the road heads south up the Sadpara valley, passing one of the most beautiful lakes in Skardu, the Sadpara Lake and a small, sleepy village nestled in the valley. It continues west across the Deosai plateau, crossing large clear streams via bridges. As it leaves Deosai, it skirts the northern shore of another charming lake, and then crosses the Pass (4266 meters) to upper Astore Valley.
One will encounter contrasting rain and sunshine on the road to Deosai. There are several hills rising out of these plains, the height of which range from between 500 and 700 feet. The gradient is never too steep, and the slopes provide leisurely ascents. Once on top of these grasscloaked hills, one can have a clearer picture of the full grandeur of the
Pictures by the Author
08
Sunday, 24 July, 2011
Deosai Plains. Deosai Plains are interlaced with streams which are the sources of pure, cool and sweet water. On the way from Skardu to Astore or from Astore to Skardu, one will have to cross the Bara Pani where the jeep will pass over a wooden bridge – this is one of the most exciting parts of the journey. Tourists often stop at Bara Pani and spend hours in fishing
in the cold waters of Barwai Stream. Kalapani, is another scenic place which one will pass through on the journey. Aleister Crowley’s description of Deosai rings startlingly true: “In front of us lay the Deosai, an absolutely treeless wilderness of comparatively level country framed by minor peaks. It gives a unique impression of desolation. I have never seen its equal in this respect elsewhere. Yet the march was very pleasant with many flowers and streams”. The whole area is encircled by snowy mountains exceeding 5,000 meters in height and suspended glaciers but the real beauty of the plateau materialises in spring and summer when the whole plateau is brimming with greenery and countless species of fauna and flora. The Deosai Plains is at its most enchanting during this season and the view of the Karakorum Range from the top of the 4,785 metres pass is renowned.
Spring normally comes in August and millions of wild flowers bloom all over the lush green grassland and the gently rolling hills are carpeted in large part by the purple or the reddishpurple flowers. The assorted flowers attract an equally extensive variety of butterflies which lend a magical air to the entre scene. At some places, vegetation is sparse, and all one sees is rock-and-sand stretching on endlessly. At other places, regal and proud forests of alpine trees cover the land. Another feature of the Deosai Plains is the variety of lakes which lend further beauty to the vast plains. There are countless lakes, some of which have not been explored as yet, but one of the most magnificent of the lakes is the Sheosar Lake. The lake is about 2.3 kilometers long and 1.8 kilometers wide with pure, sparkling and crystal clear water. From the lake you can get a view of the south face of Naga Parbat and panoramic views of Deosai Plains. The serene, deep blue Shoesar Lake, nestled in the awe-inspiring backdrop of Nanga Parbat in the distance makes for a stunning picture of beauty. Deosai Plains also has beautiful weather and one can glimpse clouds with unique colors and rare formations. But besides all this, the popularity of Deosai Plains is also because these plains make up one of the last frontiers of natural habitat for the Himalayan brown bear, a
creature that once roamed the mountains freely. Due to its fast diminishing population as a result of hunting, the government declared it a National Park in 1993 to conserve the threatened species of Himalayan Brown Bear as well as the Snow Leopard. Another purpose of the establishment of this park was to conserve the sub-alpine vegetation and the Alpines of this area. All the travellers entering this national heritage are warned at a barrier near Chilum to observe certain rules regarding camping and fishing in these plains. It is gratifying to note that not a single wall is visible here and that the bio diversity of these plains is intact. The Himalayan Wildlife Foundation (HWF) started the conservation plan to secure the survival of the brown bear in the Deosai Plains and to monitor their population and in the last one decade have been successful in increasing their population from 17 to 50. The Deosai Plains are also home to the Ibex, Red Fox, Golden Marmot, Wolf, Ladakh Urial, Snow Leopard, Himalayan Musk Deer, Pika, Migratory Hamster, Ermine and a number of resident and migratory birds. The Deosai Plains is ‘a must-visit’ if you want to explore nature at its best. It is one of those places which will wonderfully showcase the natural beauty that Pakistan has been bestowed with. So, if you are planning to explore the north of Pakistan this year, then Deosai Plain is just the right place for you.