The essential guide to Camden Town, King’s Cross, Bloomsbury and Hampstead & Highgate. Visit www.lovecamden.org
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Top ten things to do:
Welcome
Great offers See Love Camden boxes throughout this guide for money-saving deals. Go to www.lovecamden.org for full terms and conditions.
Exploring Shakespeare’s world in a major new exhibition. Markets, global cuisine, walks and a great spot to meet friends. Centuries of heritage and a celebration of new British writing.
Free summer wellbeing sessions and live music at the bandstand. Wild animals, flower gardens, outdoor theatre and alfresco dining. Fine dining, live jazz, champagne – all without leaving the station.
7Lauderdale House 8Jazz Café
Art and arts performances in an old English garden setting. Funky club nights and great live sessions. One of Camden’s many vibrant music venues.
9Oasis Sports Centre 10Museum Street
Swimming under the skies on a rooftop in the middle of London.
Quirky independent boutiques and charming cafés.
VISIT LOVECAMDEN.ORG FOR MORE GREAT THINGS TO DO
Editor Tim Arthur
Published by Time Out Magazine Ltd Universal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, W1T 7AB Tel 020 7813 3000 Fax 020 7813 6001 www.timeout.com
1British Museum 2Camden Lock 3British Library 4Hampstead Heath 5Regent’s Park 6St Pancras Grand
Chief executive officer David King Chief operating officer Aksel van der Wal Chief commercial officer David Pepper International managing director Cathy Runciman Group Financial director Paul Rakkar
Guide editor Laura Lee Davies Sub editors Claire Hils, Lewis Lyons Contributors Laura Lee Davies, Lisa Mullen, Emma Perry Design Chris Tate, Thomas Havell Picture research Abigail Lelliott Production manager Brendan McKeown
Printed by Ancient House Printing Group
Time Out Magazine Ltd is part of the Time Out Group Director & Founder Tony Elliott
This is a product of Time Out Brand Solutions: Derek Pratt 020 7813 6008
© Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2012. All rights reserved. All information was checked at time of going to press. The publisher and the brand partner cannot be held responsible for any errors. Front cover: © Nick Hanna/Alamy © Vibrant Pictures/Alamy This page: Peter Phipp/ Travelshots.com/Alamy
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 3
WELCOME
From raw natural beauty to the architectural echoes of an industrial past, Camden is a fascinating and diverse slice of London that has inspired centuries of artists and writers, and which continues to draw visitors from around the world. Whether you have lived in north London all your life or you’re in town for the first time, you’ll easily find something fresh to enjoy. Look beyond high streets and stroll away from main roads for entertainment, scientific discovery, art, wildlife, history and a world of cuisines. In this Guide we want to lead you to hitherto undiscovered places and new favourite experiences – the village lanes of Hampstead and Highgate, the rock ’n’ roll haunts of Camden Town, and the cultural walks through Bloomsbury. Our maps and directions will show you just how easy it is to get from one to another. So what are you waiting for? Go explore!
30 minutes’ walk to Hampstead
King’s Cross to Camden Town
Art by Hogarth, Gainsborough and Reynolds (p19)
6 The Place Specialist dance theatre (p13)
7 St Pancras Parish Church Crypt Gallery Contemporary art (p13)
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Unique and fascinating (p15)
16 Petrie Museum Egyptian archaeology (p19)
17 Russell Square A fine spot to relax, with a fountain and a great café (p19)
18 St Pancras Gardens Lovely former churchyard
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15 Granary Square
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Manuscripts by Shakespeare and Handel, exhibitions and cafés (p13)
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1 British Library
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During the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, King’s Cross St Pancras is a major travel hub for visitors from around the world. However, even many Londoners won’t realise how many great things there are to see and do within easy walking distance of the stations. From quirky market stalls in Camden to Aztec artefacts at the British Museum to wild creatures at Camley Street Natural Park, there’s something for everyone.
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19 Brunei Gallery Visiting art exhibitions (p19)
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20 Wiener Library Major Holocaust resource (p19)
21 The Wellcome Collection Museum of medical history, art and culture (p13)
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15 TO 30 MINUTES’ WALK
22 British Museum
Egyptian mummies, the Rosetta Club, music and arts venue (p15) Stone, visiting exhibitions and much more (p18) 9 Shaw Theatre Modern 446-seat theatre (p13) 23 Camden markets Bustling, colourful fun (p10) 10 TO 15 MINUTES’ WALK 24 Grant Museum Zoological museum (p19)
8 The Scala
10 Bloomsbury Theatre
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Drama, music and comedy (p14) 25 Jewish Museum
11 Camden People’s Theatre Innovative fringe theatre (p14)
12 Coram’s Fields Seven-acre park designed especially for children (p19)
13 Drummond Street Top spot for Asian food (p14)
14 Euston Tap Craft beer house (p14) 4 Time Out Love Camden
London
History, art and events (p7)
26 Regent’s Park London’s Central Park, with lakes, cafés, a rose garden and an open-air theatre
27 Store Street Check out NLA’s 3-D map of London, on a street of independent shops (p19)
OUTDOOR GYMS
28 Argyle Square Gardens 29 Cumberland Market Green 30 Polygon Open Space
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The borough of Camden has more outdoor gym installations than any other in the UK, with nine sites, free for you to use! The gyms are suitable for people of all ages and fitness levels, and you don't need any experience to use them. For full details and addresses, visit www.camden.gov.uk/outdoorgyms
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For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit lovecamden.org ™ 5
Camden Town
Drink at Made in Camden
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to the The upper half of the High Street, Roundhouse and Proud north of the tube station, is the Camden Camden Lock main drag leading to the Stables Market Village Market V markets, so, not surprisingly, Camden Lock Market this is where many of Camden’s alternative style Camden Lock shops are found. Camden Market AL N A Goths (and the C to T’S Electric Ballroom Primrose goth-curious) head for EN G Hill RE Chaos (243 Camden AD CAMDEN RO TOWN N High St, NW1 7BU, 020 DE M CA 7284 2174) and Darkside (245 Camden High St, NW1 afé WAY Jazz Café PARK 7BU, 020 7284 2174). There is a Jewish Museum small Cyber Market (211 to Camden London Town Library Camden High St, NW1 7QR), with and Koko stalls keen to lure in the club kids on their way to Cyberdog (p11). Y LE
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Camden’s original and most respected tattooists Evil From the Needle (232 Camden High St, NW1 8QS, 020 7482 2412) are a bit further up, close to piercing studio Cold Steel (238 Camden High St, NW1 8QS, 020 7267 7970). Two pubs vie for your attention on this strip. The Buck’s Head (202 Camden High St, NW1 8QR, 020 7284 1513) is a friendly, nononsense pub serving good-value lunches, while across the road, the Oxford Arms (265 Camden High St, NW1 7BU, 020 7267 4945) has a cheerful beer garden, and upstairs, the tiny Etcetera Theatre (020 7482 4857) hosts sketch comedy and new plays and attracts an artier crowd. South of the tube station, Camden settles into its offduty identity as a local neighbourhood. The Camden Head (100 Camden High St, NW1 0LU, 020 7485 4019) is a large, comfortable bar which hosts open mic comedy nights and live music; next door, Camden Bar and Kitchen (102 Camden High St, NW1 0LU, 020 7485 2744) is a
ALAMY
Camden Town is known around the world for its colourful weekend market, a magnet for lovers of alternative fashions. But the area buzzes seven days a week with pubs, bars, restaurants, shops, galleries, museums, clubs and live music and comedy venues. And during the week, or even at the weekends away from the market areas, the pretty Regent’s Canal provides a surprisingly peaceful and laid-back antidote to all the bustle and excitement at street level.
KEN TIS
CAMDEN TOWN
Show this guide for a freeglass of house wine or Camden Town Brewery beerwith lunch, dinner or weekend brunch at the Roundhouse’s bar & dining room. Offer applies to the first 100 people.
Parkway and Inverness Street
BEN ROWE
Parkway is defined by two music venues that give it a distinct flavour. The Jazz Café (5 Parkway, NW1 7PG, 020 7485 6834) is a midsized venue hosting a little jazz, but mostly R&B, soul, hip hop, pop and retro music nights, with a good Modern European menu. Legendary indie-rock venue the Dublin Castle (94 Parkway, NW1 7AN, 020 7485 1773) is justly proud of its heritage (Madness and Blur started out here) and still seeks out up-and-coming bands to champion, but also functions as a friendly pub with a great jukebox. Nearby is the low-key Greenwich
The Jewish Museum
MICHELLE GRANT
Koko
(54 Parkway, NW1 7AH, 020 7485 5163). Across the road, the original Palmer’s pet store was just too large and desirable to remain a purveyor of fish food and cat baskets; it’s now home to airy teashop Yumchaa (35-37 Parkway, NW1 7PN, 020 7209 9641), though it’s happily preserved the original (indeed, ASHKAN & ELMIRA listed) 1930s shopfront, advertising AT CAMDEN LOCK ‘Monkeys’ and ‘Talking Parrots’. ‘There’s lots of energy, I like the variety, the colours, the good smells. Off Parkway is a major cultural I enjoy the crowd, everyone is very attraction, the Jewish Museum friendly and there’s not too much London (129-131 Albert St, NW1 sales pressure.’ 7NB, 020 7284 7384, www.jewish museum.org.uk), with permanent Village-style hangout Green Note galleries, temporary exhibitions (106 Parkway, NW1 7AN, 020 7485 and a programme of walks, talks and readings. And at the top of 9899), which serves veggie ‘world Parkway (only five minutes’ walk tapas’ and hosts jazz, blues, folk, roots and world music gigs, as well from Camden Town tube) is the eastern edge of beautiful Regent’s as comedy and spoken word. By day, Parkway has some good Park (www.royalparks.org.uk), lunch choices, including hot meals, great for walks, sports, cafés, outdoor theatre in summer, and ZSL salads and sandwiches at organic London Zoo (www.zsl.org). food store Whole Foods Market Running parallel to Parkway, (49 Parkway, NW1 7PN, 020 7428 Inverness Street features a strong 7575), open till 9pm daily, and run of shops, bars and cafés, with there’s delicious fro-yo at The Cultured Cow (82 Parkway, NW1 Bar Vinyl (6 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9318) and Bar Gansa (2 7AN, 020 7998 7203). Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 7267 Vinyl junkies head to Sounds That Swing (88 Parkway, NW1 8909) nestled at the eastern end, and 7AN, 020 7267 4682), specialising former Britpop Central The Good in hillbilly, doo-wop and early soul Mixer (30 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, and funk, and to add to the 020 7916 7929) at the bottom of the neighbourhood feel there’s a small road. There’s more vinyl at On the pet shop called Palmer’s Pet Care Floor Records (10 Inverness St,
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 7
CAMDEN TOWN
favourite for its all-day breakfasts (including a veggie version) and eclectic evening menu. To the east, on Pratt Street, you’ll find Sen Nin teppanyaki restaurant (35 Pratt St, NW1 0BG, 020 7096 1276), and Vilamoura (23 Pratt St, NW1 0BG, 020 3302 7331) for tapas and seafood, quietly tucked away from the High Street bustle. But then you’ll also find All Ages Records here (27 Pratt St, NW1 0BG, 020 7267 0303), specialising in all things punk, so you know you’re still in Camden. The end of the High Street is marked by the ornate front of Koko (1a Camden High St, NW1 7JE, 0870 432 5527), opposite Mornington Crescent tube. Opened in 1900 as a theatre by Victorian stage actress Ellen Terry, it was reborn as a music venue in the ’70s and later as alternative clubbing hot spot the Camden Palace, but it still retains plenty of old-style trappings such as ornate balconies, gargoyles and a huge mirrorball centrepiece.
ROB DUNLOP
ANTHONY WEBB
that’s seen it all over the years. Since 2006’s refurbishment it’s been a slick and thriving hub for music and theatre. Its standalone bar, Made in Camden, is open to nonticket-holders (see offer, p6), and there’s an exciting programme of creative workshops and support for emerging artists. Almost opposite, Crogsland Road leads off Chalk Farm Road to
the Zabludowicz Collection (176 Prince of Wales Rd, NW5 3PT, 020 7428 8940). Hosting three sitespecific exhibitions a year, this big, bright, beautiful former Methodist chapel opened in 2007 and is now well established as a leading north London art venue. There’s a library and fine arty café on site too.
The Roundhouse
NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9958), while MegaCity Comics (18 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9320) caters to collectors of another kind. For food, try gourmet burger bar Haché (24 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9100), or Made in Brasil (12 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 7482 0777), where you can wash down your Rio street food with an icy caipirinha.
Chalk Farm Road and around Camden Lock The area north of the canal is where much of the serious partying goes on. The Hawley Arms (2 Castlehaven Rd, NW1 8QU, 020 7428 5979) has in recent years become known as the rock ’n’ roller’s watering hole of choice, and you might still spot a famous face lurking in the crowd. Further up on Chalk Farm Road, opposite the Stables Market, the Lock Tavern (35 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AJ, 020 7482 7163) lures in a young hipster crowd by matching a decent DJ bar with a leafy rooftop garden. A step or two further on, Barfly (49 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8 Time Out Love Camden
Primrose Hill
2-for-1 comedy 2 tickets for the price of 1 on any Friday or Saturday show at the Highlight Comedy Club before Christmas 2012. Call 0844 844 0044 to book before September 1, quoting code CAMRO241 to redeem this voucher. Visit www.thehighlight.co.uk/ camden for listings. 8AN, 020 7688 8994) is a key stopping-off point for music lovers. Ex-Libertine Carl Barat hosts the Jubilee club night on Friday nights, with live bands upstairs. Across the road, the biggest beast on the Camden culture scene is the Roundhouse (Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8EH, 020 7424 9991), a venue
A curious hush descends when you cross the railway footbridge from Chalk Farm Road into Primrose Hill, the single link that joins rowdy Camden to one of London’s most charming urban villages. The main shopping street is Regent’s Park Road, where you’ll find a branch of Mary Portas’s upmarket charity shop Mary’s Living and Giving (109 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 9UR, 020 7586 9966), which supports Save the Children and plays Radio 4 while you explore. Further up towards the park, kitchenware shop Richard Dare (93 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8UR 020 7722 9428) is a treasure trove of desirable accessories, linens and gadgets. Stop at Primrose Hill Gallery (81 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8UY, 020 7586 3533) for a look a their well-chosen range
ROB GREIG
CAMDEN TOWN
Lock Tavern
RICHARD ROWLAND
(65 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JH, 020 7722 0950) is a local landmark that was recently refurbished and boasts one of the prettiest pub gardens in the area. A visit to Sardinian restaurant Sardo Canale (42 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JD, 020 7722 2800) is a
JONATHAN PERUGIA
Primrose Hill
delicious treat, or you can take away from the smart next-door deli Melrose and Morgan (42 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JD, 020 7722 0011, see offer p20), where you’ll find top-quality charcuterie, preserves and pickles plus delicious sweet pastries. There’s an old-fashioned fishmonger here too, winningly called Fishmonger (75a Gloucester Ave, NW1 8LD, 020 7483 4435), where the tantalising wares pile up on ice chippings begging to be taken home.
for the British Boot Company (5 Kentish Town Rd, NW1 8NH, 020 7485 8505), in business since 1851, which sells every style of Doc Martens from the no-nonsense to the flowery. Across the road, the Mango Room (10-12 Kentish Town Rd, NW1 8NH, 020 7482 5065) is a popular Caribbean restaurant, and in a commanding position on the corner of Kentish Town Road and Camden Road, the Camden Eye (2 Kentish Town Rd, NW1 9NX, 020 7267 2622) is a grown-up boozer stylishly rigged out in Fornasetti Kentish Town Road wallpaper downstairs and with a and Camden Road comfy ‘kissing lounge’ upstairs, which hosts poetry, comedy and As a general rule, the further west music nights. Across the junction, a you go in Camden, the more lively whole corner is dominated by the things get; the more south and east enormous World’s End pub and you go, the less likely you are to Underworld club below (174 bump into a celeb or a member of an Camden High St, NW1 0NE, 020 extreme fashion tribe. 7482 1932). Not the place for a quiet Heading due north from Camden pint, this venue is a magnet for outTown tube, up Kentish Town of-towners, though downstairs the Road, you walk the boundary atmosphere is more hardcore, with a between these two zones; the music programme favouring the unlovely Sainsbury’s car park is noise/metal end of the spectrum. here, but then so is the Hobgoblin Just off Camden Road on Bayham Camden (33 Kentish Town Rd, 020 Street you’ll find another venue that 7284 0562) – the legendary goth prides itself on its lack of fluff: the pub once called the Devonshire pub Brewdog (113 Bayham St, Arms and still almost universally NW1 0BA, 020 7284 0453). You referred to as the Dev. come here for the beer: the Scottish If you’re shoe shopping, look out microbrewery cooks up magical
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 9
CAMDEN TOWN
of prints and pictures, or drop into Primrose Hill Books (134 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8XL, 020 7586 2022), which specialises in rare and collectable editions. Foodies are well catered for, too. Anthony’s Deli (146 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8XN, 020 7722 9246) is stuffed with Italian goodies and Sesame (128 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8XL, 020 7586 3779) sells organic wholefoods, while Shepherd Foods (59-61 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8XD, 020 7586 4592) stocks everyday groceries as well as delicatessen items, seasonal specialities and a wide range of US products – popular with American expats missing their Vlasic pickles or Welch’s grape jelly. For lunch or dinner, the classic destinations are classy Greek grill Limonia (89 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8UY, 020 7586 7454) and, for special occasions, Bryn Williams’s acclaimed Modern European Odette’s (130 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 8XL, 020 7586 8569). Gloucester Avenue has some of the area’s big destinations. Cecil Sharp House (2 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1 7AY, 020 7485 2206), home of the English Folk Dance and Song Society, hosts live music and was voted London’s second-best music venue by Time Out readers this year. Further up, The Engineer
© NICK HANNA/ALAMY
Wedge Card
CAMDEN TOWN
Camden Lock As well as pleasant waterside walks heading east to King’s Cross and west to Little Venice via London Zoo, the Regent’s Canal is a feature of Camden Town itself. Walking north up Camden High Street,duck down to the towpath to your right when you pass over the bridge and you’re in Camden Lock Village Market, where enthusiastic noodlevendors compete to tempt you away from the array of Asian street food, burgers and pizzas all sizzling in a long row. Take a seat on one of the sawn-off Vespa half-scooters parked along the canal (or a scaled-down Trafalgar Square lion) and watch the world go by on the towpath below as you eat. Pass underneath the bridge and you’re in Camden Lock Market. This part of the Lock is presided over by Dingwalls (11 East Yard, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AB, 0844 844 0044), which hosts live music and club nights, in a complex that includes the Highlight comedy club (see offer, p8) and Lock 17 bar. The equally popular Lockside Lounge venue (75-78 West Yard, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AF, 020 7284 0007) has its own eclectic line-up from bluegrass to hip hop. A stroll down the towpath is a joy, or you can book a narrowboat trip to Little Venice with Jenny Wren (250 Camden High St, NW1 8QS, 020 7485 4433). Don’t assume the Pirate Castle (Oval Rd, NW1 7EA, 020 7267 6605) is an activity centre for kids only – adults can learn kayaking too, and once you’ve finished the course you can head out on the water on your own. The Lock’s main draw, though, is the variety of shops and stalls (see The markets, this page).
potions with names like Paradox Smokehead, Trashy Blonde and Tactical Nuclear Penguin (which claims to be the world’s strongest beer). If that’s not authentic enough for you, head up Camden Road to Castle’s Pie Shop (229 Royal College St, NW1 9LT, 020 7485 2196), one of the last surviving pie and mash caffs in London. There you can sample the delights of meat pies and parsley liquor – or even jellied eels – among the imitation teak-panelled retro ’70s decor. 10 Time Out Love Camden
Present this guide at participating businesses in Camden for offers, discounts and treats from local independent shops and businesses – look out for the Wedge Card sticker in windows. See www.Turning CamdenON.com for more details and a full list of offers.
tourist attractions and rightly famous as a breeding ground for alternative trends. Heading north up Camden High Street from the tube station, the tightly packed outdoor market (confusingly just called Camden Market) on the corner of Buck Street is the first to beckon you in. It’s a good place to find colourful one-off fashions and T-shirts, though more serious style hunters usually bypass it in favour of music venue the Electric Ballroom (184 Camden High St, NW1 8QP, 020 7485 9006), which hosts designers, jewellery makers, vintage hawkers, tarot readers and vinyl merchants at the weekend. Across the road, the weekday fruit and veg vendors of Inverness Street Market make
The markets In 1972, disused warehouses at Camden Lock, including T E Dingwall’s timber yard, were leased to craft workshops, and soon after, a weekend market was established, with shops and stalls selling clothes, food and antiques. It became so popular that by the mid ’80s, three other markets had opened along Chalk Farm Road, and Camden’s market district is now one of the capital’s biggest
Proud Camden
RICHARD ROWLAND
Camden Market
ANDREEA FROM OLD TIMES PHOTO STUDIO, STABLES MARKET ‘I like InSpiral, everything is organic, they make great smoothies and they have music and writing events every Sunday. I like the culture of Camden, there’s everything for every taste.’
can often be found giving an impromptu recital. Head north again and you’ll find yourself bumping into giant horse statues at every turn: a good sign that you’ve found your way to the Stables Market on the left-hand side. Gigantic statements are the trademark of Camden, and the theme is carried on by three of the must-see destinations here. Extreme cyber fashion emporium Cyberdog (Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 7482 2842) is flanked by – what else – two towering cyborgs, the huge panAsian bar-restaurant Gilgamesh (Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 7428 4922) is framed by massive chunks of intricately
FREE CAMDEN TOWN APP The perfect companion for a trip to Camden Town, this free app from Camden Town Unlimited guides you around to find exactly what you’re looking for. Including recommendations from designer Wayne Hemingway, TV chef Andy Bates and Madness frontman Suggs, the app helps you discover the local secrets to find the best shopping, eating and music, as well as special Wedge Card offers. The app is available in English, Italian and Japanese. Go to iTunes and search ‘Camden Town’ to download it.
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 11
CAMDEN TOWN
way for more clothes stalls at weekends. The hub of the market scene is a quick saunter further north, past shops with massive 3-D hoardings advertising clothes, shoes, tattoos and piercings, to where the street crosses the canal. To your right is Camden Lock Village Market and on your left is the labyrinthine Camden Lock Market (for both, see Camden Lock box, p10). The Lock’s main draw is the variety of shops and stalls. East Yard consists of a square courtyard surrounded on three sides by a Victorian market building. The vibe here is global; shops like Araucaria (4 Camden Lock Place, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AL, 020 7267 2707) sell fairly traded ethnic staples like throws, rugs and incense, while indoor stalls heave with amber and jade jewellery. Connected by an overhead walkway, West Yard specialises in homegrown eccentricity, with vendors such as the family-run Village Games (65 West Yard, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AF, 020 7485 0653), selling board games and oldfashioned toys. Upstairs, The Piano Shop (West Yard, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AF) sells a wide range of sheet music and the owner
carved timber, and the hit African restaurant Shaka Zulu (Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 3376 9911) is guarded by huge bronze warriors. The Stables is the place to come for goth outfits, pin-up-style fashion and a wide range of vintage clothing, from formalwear to leather coats and army surplus, as well as stylish vintage homewares. It’s also home to Alchemy yoga centre (Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 7267 6188), which has a juice bar and café. A recent addition is Old Times photo studio (Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH) where you can have your portrait taken in Tudor, Wild West or other fabulous costumes. Here, too, you’ll find Proud Camden (The Horse Hospital, Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 7482 3867). A photography gallery and laid-back bar by day and a hip live venue by night, Proud also has a supper club restaurant hosting burlesque and cabaret shows, and a glassed-in terrace café with great views of the busy High Street below.
King’s Cross
At this brasserie and bar at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel get two courses from the set menu for £19 or three for £23. Specific times apply, call 020 7278 3888. Show this guide for a free ‘1873’ cocktail when dining.
With Eurostar services leaving St Pancras International station for cities in mainland Europe, the King’s Cross area is developing fast. Now its mix of old London and new feels more like the 10th arrondissement of Paris around the Gare du Nord than a busy commercial traffic route just north of the West End! Explore west beyond St Pancras or east around King’s Cross station for live music, ancient manuscripts, great cakes and world cuisines…
wonderful British restaurant offering seasonal menus. There’s an oyster bar here, too. Or try The Gilbert Scott within the Renaissance Hotel (020 7278 3888) part of the main station building. Here chef Marcus Wareing’s team has put together a fine British menu, served in opulent brasserie surroundings. Great for afternoon tea and for cocktails, too. (See offer, above.)
St Pancras International
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Within the station itself you can now stock up on luxurious skincare treats at Kheils (020 7278 8476) or women’s E ROAD LL VI ON PENT fashions, jewellery and Scala KING’S CROSS ST PANCRAS Shaw Theatre homeware gifts at Oliver Monto Water Rats AD Bonas (020 7837 6467), or RO The Place St Pancras Library N O find a classic novel at ST EU Watermark Books (020 7713 Wellcome Collection 7900). Harry Potter fans can Bloomsbury Theatre also get their photo taken by the sign for ‘Platform 93⁄4’… On Euston Road opposite the station you’ll see one of London’s newest restaurants. Karpo (23-29 RA S
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Around King’s Cross station
to Granary Square
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At St Pancras station, there is lots to do beyond just catching trains. In the lovingly refurbished warren of hallways you’ll find popular shopping names like Cath Kidston, Fossil, LK Bennett, Hamleys and Neal’s Yard Remedies. There are also great places to eat and drink. For quick feeds, Carluccio’s (020 7278 EUSTON 7449) and Des Vins Café SQUARE and Wine Bar (020 7713 8730) are good choices, but for something special, St Pancras Grand (020 7870 9900) reflects the station’s glamorous past, with a
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Dine for £19 at The Gilbert Scott
HELOISE BERGMAN
The British Library Almost next door to St Pancras station, the British Library is a stunning modern building not only used for academic archives and studies, but also open daily to the public, with free access to its galleries. The Sir John Ritblat Gallery, for example, includes some of the most incredible historical texts, including Magna Carta, Leonardo’s notebooks and Shakespeare’s Quartos and First Folio, as well as musical manuscripts from Handel to The Beatles. The British Library hosts regular free and ticketed events and exhibitions (see offer, p14), but it’s also just a lovely place to wander or to chill out with a coffee, in one of the three indoor cafés or the square in front of the building. British Library, 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB (020 7412 7332).
Chalton Street and Euston Road There are other good places nearby for meeting friends or a pit stop – west, towards Euston Station. The Rocket on the corner of Chalton Street (120 Euston Rd, NW1 2AL, 020 7388 0021) is light and airy. A couple of minutes’ walk north, Somers Town Coffee House (60 Chalton St, NW1 1HS, 020 7387 7377) is a cosy yet
JEFFREY AT THE BRITISH LIBRARY ‘It’s a really good meeting place, especially if you’re interested in literature and culture, or local history. The exhibitions are great and I like the cafés and public spaces.’
spacious traditional pub with a great English ‘tapas’ menu for light eats, and main meals like moules and handmade burgers. Euston Road has quite a few cultural gems as unexpected as the British Library (see box, above). Heading west from the British Library, just across Ossulston Street you will see the modern exterior of the Novotel. Underneath this hotel the Shaw Theatre hosts regular shows and one-off spoken word events (100-110 Euston Rd, NW1 2AJ, 0844 248 5075). Walk on a few minutes more on the same side of the road, and ‘hidden’ on the ground floor of the Unison offices you’ll find the new Elizabeth Garrett Anderson Gallery (126-144, Euston Rd, NW1 2AP). Free to visit, it’s a small museum dedicated to the life and work of the first woman to qualify as a doctor in the UK. Across the
road, venture into St Pancras Church, where the Crypt Gallery shows a varied programme of contemporary art (Euston Rd, NW1 2BA, 020 7388 1461). Here you are just a couple of minutes from The Place dance studio, which hosts regular performances as well as training for all ages (17 Duke’s Road, WC1H 9PY, 020 7121 1100). On Euston Road, continue west on the same side of the road as the Crypt Gallery, past the grand Friends Meeting House. This Quaker centre has in its time hosted talks by guests as diverse as Bertrand Russell and Mohandas Gandhi, and has a pleasant café and restaurant. Further on you come to the Wellcome Collection. The Wellcome Trust is the world’s leading charitable foundation funding research into human and animal health, and the Collection (183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE, 020 7611
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 13
KING’S CROSS
Euston Rd, NW1 2SD, 020 7843 2221) is a welcoming place with an eclectic global menu, from Finnish smoked eel to harissa chicken and Eccles cakes. It’s open daily from 7am to 11pm, so you can try it for breakfast, lunch, dinner or anything in between. Heading north from King’s Cross station, King’s Boulevard is a pedestrian walkway leading to Central Saint Martins (Granary Square, off Goods Way, N1C 4AA). This famous art college is on Granary Square, where students and public alike can chill out and where there are regular events. Also near here, at King’s Cross Filling Station, Shrimpy’s (Goods Way, N1C 4UR, 020 8880 6111) is a pan-South American diner from the team behind Bistrotheque. Just five minutes’ walk west of here, along Goods Way then up Camley Street, you’ll find Camley Street Natural Park, a charming nature reserve which offers a wild open space alongside the Regent’s Canal (12 Camley St, N1C 4PW 020 7833 2311).
BRITTA JASCHINSKI
£2 off at the British Library £2 off tickets for the Writing Britain exhibition – exploring the connection between landscape and literature, from Blake to JK Rowling. Present this guide at the box office to claim your discount.
KING’S CROSS
The Wellcome Collection
2222) is a free gallery with regular events and exhibitions dedicated to medicine and the body. Around the corner from the Collection, the Bloomsbury Theatre (15 Gordon St, WC1H 0AH, 020 7388 8822) presents live comedy, theatre or dance most nights.
Euston station and Drummond Street Face Euston station from the main road and you will notice one of its original stone gateway pillars has been converted into the Euston Tap bar (190 Euston Rd, NW1 2EF). With outdoor tables, great beers and a menu of New Yorkstyle pizzas, it’s a little-known gem that busy commuters often miss. Further west along Euston Road, turn up Melton Street. Here, the second turning on the left is Drummond Street, home to many Asian sweet shops, grocers and restaurants. Highlights include the vegetarian cuisine served up at Diwana Bhel Poori House (121-123 Drummond St, NW1 2HL, 020 7387 5556) – much loved by regulars for decades. For fantastic value vegetarian Asian buffets, try 14 Time Out Love Camden
JULIET AT THE BRUNSWICK CENTRE ‘I’m a cyclist, I live in Camden Town and work in Covent Garden. I have a great route into work on the cycle path, I cut through the back of Agar Grove, past the railway line and come out by Camley Street Natural Park.’
Chutneys (124 Drummond St, NW1 2PA, 020 7388 0604). Follow Drummond Street to its corner with Hampstead Road and you come to Camden People’s Theatre (58-60 Hampstead Rd, NW1 2PY, 020 7419 4841), which hosts regular innovative contemporary theatre in its 60seater auditorium.
with a clutch of independent shops, secondhand bookstores and cafés. The deli and patisserie Fork (85 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AL, 020 7738 7286) and, further down, 49 Cafe (49 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP) are perfect for something light and quick to eat, but if you fancy a more substantial meal, try Italian restaurant Balfour (75-77 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP, 020 7713 6111) or Vegetarian’s Paradise Bhel Poori House (59 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP, 020 7278 6881). There are a few good pubs here, including the Norfolk Arms, just off the top end of Marchmont Street (28 Leigh St, WC1H 9EP, 020 7388 3937). This pub is acclaimed for its
Marchmont Street Across Euston Road from the British Library, head down into Cartwright Gardens and you come to the top of Marchmont Street,
Friends Meeting House
THOMAS HAVELL
BRITTA JASCHINSKI
Camino
Gray’s Inn Road Just to the east of King’s Cross station, the distinctive old cinema building called the Scala sits just above the top end of Gray’s Inn Road. Nowadays the venue is home to live music, comedy and club nights (275 Pentonville Rd, N1 9NL, 020 7833 2022). Head down the lane next to the Scala and you come to 06 St Chad’s Place (WC1X 9HH, 020 7278 3355), a former Victorian workshop space converted into an airy, funky bar and restaurant. Monto Water Rats music pub is just a couple of minutes’ walk south (328 Gray’s Inn Rd, WC1X 8BZ, 020 3589 5983), with live bands every night, from rock, pop and folk to metal and techno. Just off Gray’s Inn Road, a walk down Britannia Street brings you
Karpo
to the Gagosian Gallery (6-24 Britannia St, WC1X 9JD, 020 7841 9960), part of an international chain of galleries, with a changing lineup of major contemporary artists. Or stroll further south down Gray’s Inn Road and turn left onto Acton Street, where you will find the wonderful Work gallery (10a Acton St, WC1X 9NG, 020 7713 5097). This is an independent arts space presenting work in the fields of art, architecture and design.
East of King’s Cross Walk five minutes north up York Way and you’ll see Kings Place on
AMY & FRIENDS AT ST PANCRAS ‘I like Russell Square, it’s near my university and it’s a peaceful spot in central London, and the Brunswick Centre is good for a bit of European café culture.’
your right (90 York Way, N1 9AG, 020 7520 1490). The ground floor and the levels below it are an arts space with a busy theatre and three excellent, free to visit art galleries. Grab a coffee from the venue’s Green & Fortune Café or visit its Rotunda bar and restaurant which overlooks the pretty canal boats on Battlebridge Basin. Across the water you can see the London Canal Museum (12-13 New Wharf Rd, N1 9RT, 020 7713 0836). Just off Pentonville Road you’ll find Regents Quarter, a tuckedaway little complex with three great bars. Camino is a lively lounge and restaurant with authentic Spanish food (3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD, 020 7841 7331), Bar Pepito is a cosy Andalucian-themed bar, and VOC is a 17th-century inspired punch house (2 Varnishers Yard, N1 9AW, 020 7713 8229). Walk through onto Caledonian Road and on your left is Drink, Shop & Do (9 Caledonian Rd, N1 9DX, 020 7278 4335). The shop sells gifts and sweets and at the back there’s a cute retro tearoom. In the evening it’s a lively bar. Everything in the place is for sale – even the chair you’re sitting on!
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 15
KING’S CROSS
Spanish menu. Or try the Marquis Cornwallis (31 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP, 020 7278 8355), which has regular DJ nights. There is a real village feel to Marchmont Street, with regular community events in the street and in the small gardens just north of the Brunswick Centre (see p19). The stores are wonderfully diverse – from the organic vegan and vegetarian grocery and beauty store Alara (58-60 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AB, 020 7837 1172, www.alarashop.com, see offer p18) to Gay’s the Word (66 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AB, 020 7278 7654), which stocks gay and lesbian books and DVDs and hosts events and discussion groups.
Bloomsbury
Free tours
restaurants. Here Jamie Oliver and Chris Bianco have opened the retro diner Union Jacks (4 Central St Giles Piazza, WC2H 8AB, 020 3597 7888), offering starters and pizzastyle flatbreads using quality regional British meat, fish and veg, and serving cider, perry, ales and English wines. There’s also a branch of Zizzi (8 Central St Giles Piazza, WC2H 8LA, 020 7240 8447), which Around St Giles hosts live music on Thursday nights. For a daytime break, grab a coffee Walking east from Tottenham and a gourmet fairy cake at Peyton Court Road towards Holborn, you to to Grant Brunswick and Byrne (1 St Giles High St, enter the area of ‘Midtown’ – Museum Centre Brunei Gallery and Petrie WC2H 8AG, 020 3422 1451). Bloomsbury, Holborn and St Museum Queen Square Russell Square R On St Giles High Street, face Giles. Here Paramount Royal Academy the church across the road and restaurant and bar sits at of Dramatic Art to your right is Denmark the top of the Centre Point GOODGE The Alf Barrett Playground Street. Once known as Tin tower (101-103 New STREET Pan Alley, where musicians Oxford St, WC1A 1DD, British Museum All Star Lanes including the Rolling 020 7420 2900), with three Stones and the Sex Pistols floors of dining and to Central YMCA Holborn played and recorded, it is drinking, perfect for 360Library AY YW still crammed with shops degree views of the city. UR B The kiosk ki k MS OO Just behind here you’ll see selling sheet music and BL Paramount N OXFORD STREET BOR the most obvious new instruments. It’s home to the L HOLBORN O H TOTTENHAM GH Midtown landmark, the excellent 12 Bar Club (26 COURT ROAD HI colourful Renzo Piano-designed Denmark St, WC2H 8NL, 020 7240 Denmark Street office block Central Saint Giles, 2622). Set in old converted stable set around a courtyard of shops and buildings behind the shops, the 12
To the east of Tottenham Court Road and north of New Oxford Street, central London slows down. Away from West End theatreland and big-name stores, here you’ll find fascinating galleries and independent shops, old pubs, an outdoor swimming pool… plus two rowdy rock musicals and the British Museum!
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BLOOMSBURY
Covering everything from literary and political history to the criminal and musical past of the area, free guided walks set off at 1pm from the orange inmidtown kiosk outside Holborn tube station and last around 45 minutes. No need to book, just turn up. See www.inmidtown.org/ walks for more details.
RICHARD ROWLAND
Bar presents gigs and DJ nights and its bar is open in the daytime.
High Holborn and New Oxford Street
Museum Street Cross the road from the Old Crown and the short street ahead of you leads to the British Museum. This is Museum Street, which bustles with interesting little shops. Edwards & Todd (25a Museum St, WC1A 1JU, 020 7636 4650) is a wonderful boutique to browse for scented gifts, artists’ prints and jewellery, as well as lovingly sourced cards and curiosities. Opposite, the Camera Café (44 Museum St, WC1A 1LY, 07887 930 826) offers fresh juices, coffee and snacks in a cosy spot at the back of Aperture photographic shop. On Museum Street you can also find handmade knitwear, vintage-style leather satchels, antiques and contemporary art.
Denmark Street
more to it than just the UK’s most visited attraction… Hotels with great restaurants for lunch include the Kenilworth’s sleek Modern British restaurant and bar Creation (97 Great Russell St, WC1B 3LB, 020 7666 2068), and opposite, the Bloomsbury Street FRANCES AT THE BRITISH MUSEUM Hotel Bar and Restaurant with its European menu and sumptuous ‘I love the buildings in Bloomsbury, and the Victorian pubs like the afternoon teas (9-13 Bloomsbury St, Museum Tavern and the Plough – WC1B 3QD, 020 8817 0944). it was an actors’ pub and it used to There are also some great little be called the Baby’s Bottom! I’m bookshops to browse, including the fascinated by all the history here.’ esteemed antiquarian booksellers Jarndyce (46 Great Russell St, WC1B 3PA, 020 7631 4220) opposite Just off here, the Cartoon the British Museum, and Arthur Museum (35 Little Russell St, Probsthain (41 Great Russell St, WC1A 2HH, 020 7580 8155) is a popular archive of comic drawings WC1B 3PE, 020 7636 1096). Stop here for a while and enjoy a cuppa at and caricatures and modern their café, Tea and Tattle. graphic talent. They have regular Between the many souvenir special exhibitions and a great little shops near the British Museum shop at the front. A couple of doors there are some great shops selling away, try lunch at Pizza Express (30 Coptic St, WC1A 1NS, 020 7636 reproductions and original work, like the Contemporary Ceramics 3232). This was the second ever Centre (63 Great Russell St, WC1B branch to open and still has a real 3BF, 020 7242 9644) and It’s All 1967 feel to its funky décor. Greek (65 Great Russell St, WC1B 3BL, 020 7242 6224). Great Russell Street At the corner of Bury Place you’ll It’s hard to miss the imposing Greek see the Georgian courtyard Pied Bull Yard. When the sun shines, sit Revival columns of the British out and drink at the wine bar Museum on Great Russell Street Truckles (WC1A 2JR, 020 7404 (see box, p18). However, this road 5338). There are a couple of small running from Tottenham Court Road to Southampton Row has a lot galleries here, too.
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 17
BLOOMSBURY
Heading east towards Holborn, the Shaftesbury Theatre (210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP, 020 7379 5399) stands in the middle of a busy road junction. If you like the Queen-themed musical ‘We Will Rock You’ at the nearby Dominion Theatre (268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ, 0844 847 1775) then the romping 1980s-fest ‘Rock of Ages’ at the Shaftesbury is for you. By tranquil contrast, the Oasis Sports Centre across the road (32 Endell St, WC2H 9AG, 020 7831 1804) includes an indoor pool and a fabulous rooftop outdoor pool, fitness facilities and squash courts. Cross the road and head north to New Oxford Street. Turn left and you’ll find lots of places to get a sandwich, pizza or something more exotic. The Old Crown pub makes for a good excuse to stop for food and drink (33 New Oxford St, WC1A 1BH, 020 7836 9121). Tuesday night is ’50s night, with 2-for-1 deals on burgers, live DJing, Wii bowling and the chance to sample their alcoholic shakes and ice cream floats.
BLOOMSBURY
Opened in 1759 as the world’s first national public museum, its two million artefacts tell the story of the world’s oldest civilisations, but it’s also one of London’s best contemporary attraction experiences. When the Norman Foster-designed Great Court opened in 2000, it hailed a new era. The spectacular glass roof stretching over the famous Reading Room has given the central concourse a clean, airy feel, with light pouring onto bright new Portland stone. Schoolkids flock to the Greek and Roman treasures and visitors come to gaze on the beautiful objects in the Americas, Egypt, Asia and Middle East galleries. The museum is free to visit, and there are free talks and tours and ticketed special exhibitions, as well as free activities for children. It’s open until 8.30pm on Fridays, with special events, screenings and tours of artefacts like the Rosetta Stone or Parthenon sculptures, as well as food and drink. After a dip into the exhibitions, you can lounge in the gardens in front of the museum, or visit one of its cafés; the Court Restaurant, upstairs under the glass roof, serves Modern European dishes and excellent afternoon tea. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG (020 7323 8299, www.britishmuseum.org) Tottenham Court Road tube. Adm free.
Walk further along Great Russell Street and you come to Bloomsbury Square with its small playground. Tucked away down steps to the basement of Victoria House is the bowling alley All Star Lanes (Bloomsbury Place, WC1B 4DA, 020 7025 2676). Designed in classic 1950s American style and serving food and drink, it’s a subterranean gem.
Holborn and Midtown Turn right at the end of Great Russell Street and walk to Holborn station. From here, head east along High Holborn. On your right the University of the Arts Gallery (272 High Holborn, WC1V 7EY, 020 7514 2300) is an art space with free exhibitions. Keep walking and after Chancery Lane station you 18 Time Out Love Camden
come to the jewellery quarter Hatton Garden. Or head south past Holborn station and turn off Kingsway for Sir John Soane’s Museum (13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP, 020 7405 2107). The stretch from King’s Cross to the Thames is full of museums. Discover more at www.museummile.org.uk, or see the Orange Midtown information kiosk by Holborn station. Free walks leave here at 1pm daily (see offer p16, www.inmidtown.org).
Southampton Row and Russell Square Southampton Row is a busy main road that throngs with hotels and restaurants. Highlights near here include Orchard (11 Sicilian Ave,
RICHARD ROWLAND
The British Museum
WC1A 2QH, 020 7831 2715), the informal sister café of Michelinrecommended vegetarian restaurant Vanilla Black. On Southampton Row the many specialist shops include Falkiner (76 Southampton Row, WC1B 4AR, 020 7831 1151), which stocks beautiful stationery and runs courses on topics from calligraphy to making pop-up cards. Walk north towards Russell Square and duck into an alley called Cosmo Place. Here there is a row of great little restaurants where you
can dine outside. The alley opens out onto the peaceful Queen Square. The Queens Larder on the corner (1 Queen Square, WC1N 3AR, 020 7837 5627) is a tiny, friendly pub. To the south end of the square, walk for a couple of minutes to the October Gallery (24 Old Gloucester St, WC1N 3AL, 020 7242 7367). Here art exhibitions are presented
Free drink & cake at Alara At Alara, spend over £5 on food from the deli bar and get a free tea or filter coffee, or buy any pre-packaged food and get a free cake of the day. Offer runs July 27 to September 8.
RICHARD ROWLAND
LEO, BRITTANY & ALINA AT RUSSELL SQUARE ‘We like to spend time together at the weekends. Russell Square is a good place for relaxing. It’s nice for Brittany, we just got her an ice cream.’
ED MARSHALL
Brunswick Centre At this development opposite Russell Square tube, the crowds spill out after a movie at the Renoir cinema (0330 500 1331) to dine at the Brunswick Centre’s many good restaurants (including Carluccio’s, Giraffe, and the Japanese/panAsian diner Hare & Tortoise). For daytime shopping there are plenty of fashion options here too, including Coast and French Connection. Bookworms beat a path to Skoob Books (66 The Brunswick, off Marchmont St, WC1N 1AE, 020 7278 8760), one of London’s best second-hand bookstores. For details of all stores, check www.brunswick.co.uk. Take a five-minute walk round the corner to Coram’s Fields (93 Guilford St, WC1N 1DN, 020 7837
Petrie Museum
Handel, who performed benefit concerts for the hospital, and works of art by the likes of Hogarth.
Around Gower Street
10% off at The Lamb Classic London pub The Lamb on Lamb’s Conduit Street dates from 1729. Present this guide on any day except Sunday for a 10 per cent discount on all food and drink. 6138). It’s a park you can only visit if you are accompanied by a child, and it has sandpits, water features and even a few farm animals. South of here, Lamb’s Conduit Street is a row of little shops, cafés and the beautiful old pub The Lamb ( 94 Lambs Conduit St, WC1N 3LZ, 020 7405 0713, see offer above). Just north of Coram’s Fields, the Foundling Museum (40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ, 020 7841 3600), tells the history of the Foundling Hospital, opened in 1739 to take in orphans and abandoned children. There is an archive dedicated to
West of the British Museum, Gower Street runs south from Euston Road. Along here the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art (RADA, 62-64 Gower St, WC1E 6ED, 020 7636 7076) opens its doors for regular public events. The Grant Museum, nearby, is a free zoological museum with skeletons, mounted animals and specimens (Rockefeller Building, UCL, 21 University St, WC1E 6DE, 020 3108 2052). Also free to visit, the Petrie Museum (UCL, Gower St, WC1E 6BT, 020 7679 2000) has a vast collection of Egyptian and Sudanese archaeology. Off Gower Street is the tree-lined Store Street. Grab lunch at Olivelli Italian restaurant (35 Store St, WC1E 7BS, 020 7255 2554) or try Busaba Eathai for Thai cuisine (22 Store St, WC1E 7DS). Across the road at the New London Architecture offices (26 Store St, WC1E 7BT, 020 7636 4044) there’s a lovely café and an amazing scale model of London to look at. Further down Gower Street, turn right for sports facilities at the Central YMCA (112 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NQ, 020 7343 1700).
For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 19
BLOOMSBURY
alongside talks and events with poets, writers and commentators. Back out on Southampton Row, head north to Russell Square, a spacious leafy oasis with a fountain and a café. Facing the square, the Wiener Library for the Study of the Holocaust & Genocide (29 Russell Square, WC1B 5DP, 020 7636 7247) has collected writing, photographs and testimonies. Off the north-west corner of the square is the School of Oriental and African Studies. See art at its Brunei Gallery for free, and spend contemplative time in the Japaneseinspired roof garden (Thornhaugh St, WC1H 0XG, 020 7637 2388).
Hampstead & Highgate
Order a delicious Picnic for Two from Melrose and Morgan in Primrose Hill or Hampstead this summer (July 27-Sept 9) and get 25% discount on presentation of this guide. Call 020 7485 1600 to order (48 hours notice required). to Hampstead Heath, lined with chic boutiques like CoChineChine (74 Heath St, NW3 1DN, 020 7435 9377) and independent shops like toys and games emporium The Hundred Acres (82 Heath St, NW3 1DN, 020 7794 2781), which also runs classes and has a café. to Turning back down the hill, Highgate Wood Heath Street continues below the Hampstead High Street Hampstead Heath tube station. Urban Den (16-18 and Heath Street Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7431 to Highgate 6002) is a quirky and Walking out of Hampstead Library and Fenton House Highgate fabulously eclectic gift tube station, turn left and Village shop and well-loved you’re walking down Holly Bush to Lauderdale boutique Miriam London pretty Hampstead High House and Highgate stocks sought-after and Street, full of designer Cemetery Everyman exclusive label clothes and chains like Kurt Geiger Flask HA M accessories (10 Heath St, (30 Hampstead High St, HAMPSTEAD ST HAMPSTEAD EA DH HEATH NW3 6TE, 020 7794 6311). NW3 1QA, 020 7794 4290) IGH South End Green ST Look out for the alley lined and Nicole Farhi (27 RO SS T with hanging baskets at the Hampstead High St, NW3 LYN DS PON HIL L entrance to Hampstead 1QA, 020 7435 0866). Antique & Craft Emporium Along here, on the left hand to Camden (12 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7794 side, you’ll see Flask Walk, a Arts Centre and Freud 3297), where the Antique Textiles pretty little passage with secondMuseum hand bookshops and other lovely Co sells beautiful rare quilts and one-offs like Judy Green’s Garden textiles and the Button Lady sells Store (11 Flask Walk NW3 1HJ, and ales. Grab a spot by the picture exquisite antique buttons. 020 7435 3832). The Flask pub (14 window and watch the world go by. Heath Street is a good place to Flask Walk, NW3 1HG, 020 7435 Turn right out of the tube station find a decent pub. The Camden 4580) serves very good pub grub and Heath Street winds up the hill Town Brewery started in the cellar
A trip to Hampstead or Highgate, perched on hilltops on either side of Hampstead Heath, is like escaping to the country but with all the good things about London within strolling distance along pretty lanes or tucked away in courtyards. As well as great pubs and smart boutiques, you’ll find arts, history and natural beauty.
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OLIVER KNIGHT
of the Horseshoe gastropub (28 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7431 7206). The tiny Pentameters Theatre is upstairs (see p22). Nearby there’s the gloriously retro Hungarian cafépatisserie-tea room Louis (32 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7435 9908).
West of Heath Street
The Flask
for a pint. Where Frognal Rise and Holly Bush Hill meet is Mount Vernon Green and Fenton House (3 Hampstead Grove, NW3 6SP, 020 7435 3471). It’s a grand 17th-century merchant’s house with lunchtime concerts, croquet in the gardens and great rooftop views. In September there’s apple bobbing in the orchard. At the end of Admiral’s Walk is Lower Terrace. Along here, Hampstead Scientific Society Observatory (Lower Terrace, NW3 6RF) is the only place in London where you can regularly look at the night sky through a good telescope at no cost. Just turn up on a fine night (mid-Sept to mid-April: Fri, Sat 8-10pm; Sun 11pm-1am).
Around the lanes Head back down the hill to rejoin Heath Street and turn left onto New End. Keep on until you reach Burgh House (New End Square, NW3 1LT,
Hampstead Heath Hampstead Heath’s 790 acres of hilly unmanicured countryside offer shady glades, open heathland, enticing paths through ancient woodland and many opportunities for hearty outdoor activities or a relaxing stroll. It’s so big that it’s best to explore a corner at a time: get to Parliament Hill Fields by bus from Camden Town or by train to Gospel Oak or Hampstead Heath stations, or walk through the lanes east of Hampstead High Street to get to East Heath. From Highgate Village, take a short walk from The Grove down Fitzroy Park, or down Highgate West Hill to Merton Lane, to enter the Heath near Highgate Ponds, or walk along Hampstead Lane to Kenwood – the estate of Kenwood House (Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR, 020 8348 1286). This handsome 18th-century mansion is currently closed for renovation, but its Brew House café remains open. You can also enjoy Kenwood’s pretty landscaped gardens, lake and marvellous warren of wooded walks. Seek out statues by Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth in the grounds, too. From Kenwood it’s easy to drop down into the main part of the Heath for a good long walk. If you’re feeling sporty, the Mixed Bathing Pond is the oldest of three large ponds set aside for swimming. Unlike the men’s and ladies’ ponds, which are open year-round, the Mixed Pond is only open from May to September (7am-6.45pm daily). Children under 8 are not permitted, but they can splash about in the paddling pool at Parliament Hill Fields. 020 7431 0144), which contains an art gallery and a small local history museum and puts on regular classical concerts. On sunny days the terrace tables are served by its Buttery café. From here, walk straight down to 2 Willow Road, the modernist architect’s Ernö Goldfinger’s 1930s home (NW3 1TH, 020 7435 6166), where you can take a guided tour between 11am and 2pm or browse between 3 and 5pm. Goldfinger’s art collection includes works by Henry Moore and Bridget Riley. Turn right up Downshire Hill, take the first left, and you’ll find Keats House (Keats Grove, NW3 2RR, 020 7332 3868). The poet John Keats lived here from 1818 to 1820. You can sit in the garden where he
heard the birdsong that inspired ‘Ode to a Nightingale’. A leaflet guides you through each room, renovated in 2009 to look just as it did when Keats lived here. The quiet streets between Hampstead High Street and the
JAMIE FROM KEITH FAWKES BOOKSHOP, FLASK WALK ‘I’m from Camden Town. I love working in Hampstead. The best thing about it is its community spirit.’
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HAMPSTEAD & HIGHGATE
CHRISTINA THEISEN
From the tube, veer right into Heath Street and climb The Mount on the left-hand side, up the steps to your left. You’ll find yourself in what looks like a country lane. Look back at the stunning view over the rooftops. Up a little lane here, the Holly Bush pub (22 Holly Mount, NW3 6SG, 020 7435 2892) is a great spot
RICHARD ROWLAND
HAMPSTEAD & HIGHGATE
Everyman Cinema
Heath are great to stroll around, but magpies should head straight to Mystical Fairies (12 Flask Walk, NW3 1HE, 020 7431 1888), where sparkly toys and play accessories for girls fill every square inch. There are some excellent pubs, too. At the Duke of Hamilton (23 New End, NW3 1JD, 020 7794 0258), Saturday night is comedy night and on Thursdays they host live acoustic music sessions. The Old White Bear (1 Well Rd, NW3 1LJ, 020 7794 7719) serves great food all week but is well known for its Sunday roasts and sticky toffee pudding. Right next to the Heath, The Wells (30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX, 020 7794 3785) is another favourite local gastropub serving a good Modern European menu.
Heath Street south to Fitzjohn’s Avenue South of Hampstead tube station, Heath Street continues down the hill and becomes Fitzjohn’s Avenue, heading off towards Swiss Cottage. Near the top of this busy little parade is the boutique arthouse cinema the Everyman (5 Holly Bush Vale, NW3 6TX, 0870 066 4777), which offers gourmet food and snacks, a well-stocked bar and a choice of seating from comfortable armchairs to cosy two-seater sofas, complete with waiter service. For alternative entertainment, check out what’s on at the 60-seat fringe Pentameters Theatre, above the Horseshoe pub (28 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7435 3648). There are a couple of great little 22 Time Out Love Camden
walkways linking Heath Street and Hampstead High Street, with doorways leading off into charming little shops. Along Oriel Place the very modern Melrose and Morgan (NW3 1QN, 020 7794 6727, see offer p20) is a branch of the esteemed Primrose Hill deli, with a mezzanine café. A little further down Heath Street on the left hand side, Perrin’s Court also offers numerous delights, such as Ginger & White (4a-5a Perrin’s Court, NW3 1QS, 020 7722 9944), which serves Square Mile coffee, fantastic brunch and cakes. Beyond Perrin’s Lane, the row of boutiques and little stores includes independent camera and photo printing shop Photocraft (4 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7435 9932, see offer p23 ). After this, Heath Street becomes Fitzjohn’s Avenue. Take a right turn along Arkwright Road to the Camden Arts Centre (NW3 6DG, 020 7472 5500), a classy exhibition space featuring emerging and established artists from the UK and abroad, with a great bookshop and café; it’s open until 9pm on Wednesdays with talks, screenings and live events. Admission is free. The next right turn off Fitzjohn’s Avenue, Netherhall Gardens, leads to Maresfield Gardens and the fascinating Freud Museum (20 Maresfield Gardens, NW3 5SX, 020 7435 2002), the home of pioneering psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud from 1938. Freud’s study has been preserved just as it was, and you can see the very couch where all his patients reclined during sessions.
SUYO AT PERRIN’S COURT ‘Hampstead Heath is the best thing about Hampstead. I like to walk there in the morning and have lunch at Ginger & White. I like the High Street, the Everyman and the crêpe stand.’
2-for-1 food and wine tastings Present this guide for 2-for-1 on any food and wine tasting at The Hampstead Butcher & Providore on Rosslyn Hill. Call 020 7794 9210 for information and bookings or visit www. hampsteadbutcher.com.
Rosslyn Hill and South End Green Continuing down Hampstead High Street brings you to another row of interesting shops, such as The Hampstead Butcher & Providore (56 Rosslyn Hill, NW3 1ND, 020 7794 9210, see offer above), where exquisite meats are displayed on antique china platters. Also at this end of Hampstead, look out for craft and vintage fairs in St Stephen’s Church (Rosslyn Hill, NW3, 020 7433 1272). Turn left here onto Pond Street, leading to South End Green. Halfway along is the friendly, loungey Young’s pub the Roebuck (15 Pond St, NW3 2PN, 020 7435 7354). A few doors down, the Armoury gym (25 Pond St, NW3 2PN, 020 7431 2263) is where locals go to get buff. It’s packed with cardio equipment, has a ladies’ sauna and offers classes including spinning, yoga, Pilates and boxing. Day passes are £10 (concs £7-£3). Overlooking South End Green is the White Horse pub (154-156 Fleet Rd, NW3 2QX, 020 7485 2112) with its airy interior and huge windows. Across the road the traditional French menu at La Cocotte (85b Fleet Rd, NW3 2QY, 020 7433 3317) is a favourite with the locals.
RICHARD ROWLAND
Heading past Hampstead Heath rail station, turn right into South Hill Park, then turn into Parliament Hill and then bear right again into Nassington Road. Along here you’ll come to the foot of Parliament Hill Fields. On your way you go past the Magdala pub (2a South Hill Park, NW3 2SB, 0207 435 2503), a lovely spot for a drink or a meal. It enjoys notoriety as the place where Ruth Ellis shot her lover dead on Easter Sunday 1955. The bullet holes can still be seen in the wall outside. Back on South End Road there are a number of interesting little stores. Daunt Books (51 South End Rd, NW3 2QB, 020 7794 8206) has a great book selection and a secret book cave for children, and sylish retro goodies await at Skandinteriors (57 South End Rd, NW3 2QB, 07794 640 937). Mimmo la Bufulà (45a South End Rd, NW3 2QB, 7435 7814) serves top-notch wood-fired pizzas.
Judy Green’s Garden Store
JAEL MARSCHNER
Highgate Cemetery
Highgate is a visit in itself but if you’re coming from Hampstead it’s worth taking the 603 bus from Heath Street as this links Hampstead to Highgate in about 10 minutes. Browse in the few independent shops like Not So Big (31a Highgate High St, N6 5TJ, 020 8340 4455), with exquisite children’s clothes, or the friendly Highgate Bookshop (9 Highgate High St, N6 5JR, 020 8348 8202), before going for a delicious afternoon tea at the cute, laid-back High Tea of Highgate (50 Highgate High St, N6 5HX, 020 8348 3162). The houses around Pond Square
Around Highgate Wood Half a mile from Highgate Village, down Southwood Lane, is Highgate tube. The shops along the busy A1 – Archway Road – include the lovely second-hand bookshop Ripping Yarns (355 Archway Rd, N6 4EJ, 020
8341 6111) and the well-stocked Deli & Delights (343 Archway Rd, N6 5AA, 020 8340 8632). The arts centre Jacksons Lane (269a Archway Rd, N6 5AA, 020 8340 5226) holds classes and presents dance, theatre, children’s theatre and music. Around the corner from Archway Road, walk for a few minutes down Muswell Hill Road and you come to Highgate Wood on your left and the quieter Queen’s Wood on your right. In Highgate Wood (020 8444 6129) there are regular nature walks organised, including night-time bat walks. The Pavilion Café (N10 3JN, 020 8444 4777), in a clearing in the middle, serves good coffee, hot and cold meals and own-made ice cream.
Free print at Photocraft Order ten or more digital prints of any size at Photocraft Hampstead on Heath Street to get a free 8"x12" digital print on presentation of this guide. Offer valid throughout 2012. Call 020 7435 9932.
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HAMPSTEAD & HIGHGATE
Highgate Village
are charming, and the cosy Prince of Wales pub (53 Highgate High St, N6 5JX, 020 8340 0445) serves wellkept real ales and has a terrace with tables right on the square. Walk a little further along South Grove and you come to the Flask (77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU, 020 8348 7346 ), a handsome 17thcentury pub. Inside it’s a warren of bars and snugs, and there’s a big outdoor terrace. It’s worth a detour down Swain’s Lane. Just after Bisham Gardens is the back entrance to Waterlow Park (N6 5HG, 020 8348 8716), one of London’s prettiest. It adjoins the recently restored formal garden of 17th-century Lauderdale House (Highgate Hill, N6 5HG, 020 8348 8716), used for art exhibitions, music performances and craft fairs. The café on the west side of the house has a lovely terrace overlooking the park. Further down Swain’s Lane is 19thcentury Highgate Cemetery (N6 6PJ, 020 8340 1834). For a small fee you can wander the East Cemetery and see the graves of Karl Marx and George Eliot, or take a guided tour of the West Cemetery.
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