That's Amore

by Sonja Willets

Local, authentic Italian flavors that save you a 13 hour plane ride!

Having traveled to Italy a few times in my life I’ve experienced what many would refer to as “the real thing.” One of my recent experiences at Amici Italian Restaurant convinced me that a 13 hour plane ride isn’t always necessary to experience authentic Italian. With this said, Jennifer and Freddy Underhill have created a culture known to locals as the “Food Mafia” by infusing their vision and indigenous ingredients into the classic Italian cuisine.

Chef Joseph masterfully explained each item to us so that no detail would go unnoticed. We started with one of their perennial appetizers, the Antipasto. Unlike most antipasti in American bistros/delis, they treat the dish with a seasonal welcome. It changes daily, sometimes even hourly to ensure only the best items make the plate. The charcuterie included; Soppresata, prosciutto, and locally made Datil Summer Sausage (this sausage alone deserves its own write up). Oh, and then the cheeses; Gorgonzola dolce topped with Florida orange supremes, Brie paired generously with their citrus Datil honey, and their house made whipped ricotta, accompanied with Freddy’s strawberry Datil jam. Cured vegetables and seasonal fruit completed the offering along with homemade bread grilled with cold pressed olive oil. Is your mouth watering yet? Pairing this beautiful bounty with good dry Italian wine, it could be a meal in itself.

Next we tried the Pancetta Candita (aka thick, hand-cut candied bacon), truly amazing! The idea for this came from Freddy and his wife Jenn, but the exact execution took months to perfect. A sweet and spicy sauce lacquers the hearty medallions of pork belly. It is served with grilled pineapple and a trio of dipping sauces; smoked tomato agrodolce, garlic herb crema, and their signature citrus Datil honey. Sounds amazing, right?

Now, let’s discuss this creative take. The Italian “Nachos” are a nod to many of the small plates they often feature. The corners of the dish are a play on their avocado and burrata caprese salad, while the heart of the plate features blackened scallops, fried cherry peppers, more candied bacon (oh yes!) and heirloom tomatoes lightly dressed with truffle balsamic and Maldon flake salt. All of this is atop a bed of deep fried house pasta chips. Did you catch that last part? Who thinks to deep fry lasagna noodles into crispy yummy chips? That would be the Food Mafia.

Lastly, and let me say I crave this often, the eggplant rollatini. This entree is even one of the Chef’s favorites. It’s a carryover from the previous owners’ menu and tweaked a bit to reflect Freddy's vision. Long, shaved leaves of eggplant are dipped in a savory cake batter and fried. They’re then rolled and stuffed with their fresh herb-whipped ricotta, coated in a hand-crushed marinara, finished with a mozzarella melt. Dreamy!

Did you enjoy this tour d’amore with me? Mangia, Mangia! I can hear ‘ole Dino crooning the song in my head as I take another… and another delectable, authentic, Italian bite. All from the comfort of Amici’s patio in the beautiful and historic, St. Augustine. n