Expressions from the Heart

Expressions from the Heart by Angela Moonan

The unfolding journey of Kyle Forson: Chef, Forager, Teacher

Food is a medium for beautiful expression, allowing the artist to both give and receive. Because of that, it has the power to change lives. It takes a teacher to understand that. At the First Coast Technical College (FCTC) of St. Augustine, Kyle Forson is making a difference. He’s guiding aspiring chefs, restauranteurs, re-inventors, and creators alike to express their passion for food, for connection, for creating. This young, yet wise and accomplished chef in his own right, knows what his students know: That Kyle Forson’s in the exact place he is meant to be.

Beginnings

When Kyle was ten years old he started cooking up his earliest memories of being in the kitchen. His grandmother lived on the same block. An afternoon snack with Grandma was a journey into the pantry, the garden, and his imagination. For a ten year old, learning that last night’s Rice-A-Roni could become fried rice, and biscuits were like playdough on the counter, could be life altering. It was. Kyle’s grandmother won his unconditional trust and attention and the journey into the world of food and all that it could create, began. Mentoring is second nature to Kyle. A graduate of St. Augustine High School, he started as a dishwasher at The Bunnery and Bakery Cafe. As a wide-eyed 15 year old he saw and learned, and still remembers today. He started assisting the cooks by cracking eggs and making pancake batter, and eventually making cinnamon rolls from scratch. Kyle was building his foundation as a line cook. These may seem like small accomplishments, but the lessons he learned about hard work would help him excel. While attending college he

Chef Kyle Forson

began working at The Tasting Room in downtown St. Augustine. This was Kyle‘s first experience in fine dining; and at 20 years old it became clear to him what his next chapter would be. The food was delicious and beautiful, the ingredients were exotic, and the other cooks were knowledgeable and intense. He couldn’t get enough. They referenced techniques, ingredients, famous chefs and restaurants. Kyle was not intimidated, but was jealous and eager to learn. It was at this time, and working with the chefs, that he decided he wanted to do this for a living. He wanted to know everything they knew. He began spending most of his wages buying cookbooks from famous chefs such as Thomas Keller and Alice Waters. He started collecting knives and tools, and building his physical toolbox to match his mental arsenal. He held every position in the back of house of The Tasting Room except Executive Chef. “I was Sous Chef for my final year before helping our sister restaurant open a bakery,” says Kyle.

“I wanted to challenge myself to see if I could make it to that level. I applied for a position with the Thomas Keller restaurant group. For me Thomas Keller was the pinnacle of my gastronomic mount Rushmore. I would send my résumé once a week with a new cover letter until three months later I finally received the phone call that changed my life. I was invited to go to New York City on my own dime, work for free for two days, and compete with multiple other candidates for one line cook position. I thanked my lucky stars for the chance, took a hold of my own destiny in this industry, and never looked back. I didn’t give up. This is one of the lessons we teach our students. You have to believe in yourself and you have to be committed to working diligently for what you want to achieve.”

Working as a Chef de Partie at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery in New York City doubled Kyle’s culinary knowledge in one year. The standards were higher than he’d ever imagined they could be in a restaurant. “In one year I worked every station of the kitchen at Bouchon; and in my time I was the only non-sous chef to ever be allowed to expedite service in the kitchen.” When he decided to make a move to keep progressing his career, he landed at a restaurant owned by Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and was headed up by the incredible Chef Dan Kluger. The influential farm-to-table restaurant, ABC Kitchen. “Chef Dan taught me that fine dining can be fun and the culture can be that of a family. Upon winning a James Beard award, we became one of the busiest establishments in New York, serving or seeing capacity of around 450 guests every night. The lessons I learned here revolved around keeping high standards and integrity, while producing incredible amounts at an incredibly high volume. To watch this kitchen in service is still one of my favorite culinary memories.” Move to Atlanta

When Kyle decided it was time to get closer to home, he moved from New York City to Atlanta, Georgia. After a long search he decided on The Spence. It was only a year old, and had been opened by Richard Blais, a Top Chef alum, but more importantly for Kyle, a Thomas Keller alum. “I would describe my time at The Spence as the defining experience of who I am as a chef.” After a time of taking up a chef position at a new restaurant for Porsche at the American headquarters, Kyle was able to secure the Executive Chef position at The Spence so he returned to cultivate his style of cooking and share it with everyone he could. “I have a twin sister that lives in Atlanta. It’s also where I ultimately met my wife Marianne. So, I’d say it all lined up for me and was the perfect move. But working in the restaurant business can be hard it’s Fridays and Saturdays which include late nights along with food costs and labor costs. It can be difficult trying to start a family. After careful thought and consideration, I decided to leave the kitchen. The journey took me deep into the woods. My wife and I started our own foraging business supplying chefs with wild mushrooms, ramps, carrots, edible flowers, clover greens, watercress. Kyle and his wife were very successful on multiple occasions finding the elusive morels, so rare of a find that it is something they are very proud of (and rightfully so). I’m a more ingredient-driven chef versus a technical chef, and more and more chefs are wanting to shift towards knowing what they are working with. Both chefs and consumers are so much more aware and focused on where things come from. The art of foraging completely fed my curiosity and my desire to get back to the purity of it all. Going deep into the woods for me was a vital part of my own personal journey.”

Kyle, wife Marianne and son Han

Coming Full Circle

The same priorities that took Kyle out of the kitchen in Atlanta brought him full circle back to St. Augustine. Kyle’s father Tim is the superintendent of schools for Saint Johns County. His mother Janice, a kindergarten teacher for thirty years. When his parents needed him closer to home, he did it without question. “They have supported me every step of my journey. When you’re a line cook in New York City your pockets are not filled with money. It’s a hard life. They were there for me and helped support my dream of becoming a world-class chef.”

“I guess teaching runs in my blood. I’ve always been eager to learn but over the past several years have really been eager to help others learn. I coach soccer at St. Augustine High School and I love my work at FCTC.” Family, humility, supporting his community, fostering relationships, mentoring… these are the tenets that Kyle lives his life by. To Kyle, giving back is really important. This past Thanksgiving, the school and students prepared and packaged meals that fed over 1,000 people. The effort had such a positive response they hope to make this an annual tradition. “I learned most of these lessons from my parents and I am incredibly grateful for all they’ve done for me.” Invaluable Skills

Dramatic impact has occurred in the industry as a result of the pandemic and pressure continues to affect daily operations as well as the labor force. The students at FCTC come from an incredible array of places and backgrounds. Some hail from St. Johns County, Flagler County, Duval and Putnam. Many of the graduates go on to travel to New York, Chicago, even as far as France. Students range in age from 17 to mid-50s. Students have a unique perspective and motivation. They want to learn. They want to better themselves. They want to make a contribution that means something. At least that’s what is discovered with the students Kyle has the privilege to teach. There are veterans in the culinary program as well. In fact, students even have a new and improved veteran’s lounge to relax in at the student center. Some students come to learn how to cook fine meals for their family, some aspire to open their own restaurant or to work for some of the finest restaurants in the world. Instructor, and mentor to Kyle when he was a student, Anthony Lowman, has been an instructor at FCTC for 33 years. In Good Company

Like Kyle, Anthony has experienced first-hand the ebb and flow of student enrollment in the culinary program. Both work side-by-side now, re-building the culinary enrollment at FCTC. “Anthony and I

complement each other’s teaching styles well and I’m honored to work beside him and be a part of fostering this legacy. The work we do at FCTC can create impact in peoples’ lives and around the world, from right here in St. Augustine. In his fourth year of teaching, Kyle helps oversee and guide the culinary path for nearly 50 students. While that is still half the class-size that Kyle himself graduated from, it’s a major improvement from where it’s been. “I was part of a really cool class when I went here,” says Kyle. “Barry Honan, Matt Wrann, Chip Richards… we all went through the program at the same time. From kitchens at Le Bernardin to Wicked Tuna, many of my esteemed colleagues have worked to become world class chefs at places deemed ‘culinary meccas.’ They all began honing their talents right here at FCTC.”

Students grow many of the items they use in class

“Everything I ever wanted, that I didn’t get as a working chef, I’ve gotten from teaching.” - Kyle Forson

Dreams in the Kitchen, Dollars on the Street

Whether there are dreams of having a food truck, a catering business, a pastry and dessert shop, creating a food delivery business, or being a Michelin star chef… these are the dreams that both Kyle and Anthony help to cultivate. The certification is for one year, 10 months. There are 4 (10) week courses and tuition is just under $7,000. When you compare that to $40,000 for Johnson & Wales, or CIA (the Culinary Institute of America) for example, it’s a no-brainer. There’s financial aid available. For veterans, full financial aid, which is wonderful. Kyle says the biggest challenge is perception. There are some who believe technical college is lesser than a four-year college. But that perception is shifting. A career and technical education today is absolutely vital. “We are really working to get our numbers up to speed for what the industry needs right now. We work with area high schools and the career academies. We begin fostering an interest in the culinary arts and technical fields as early as middle school. On average we’re receiving a hundred emails a week from restaurants seeking talent. We have job placement specialists on staff. We place talent in internships at Caps On The Water, Michael’s, Llama and many other premiere restaurants in the area. We partner with local restaurant owners here in St. Augustine but we also place in New York, Chicago, Atlanta,

areas across California. Today, the sky is truly the limit for our students. And we’re gaining momentum, numbers are growing. It’s wonderful!” Expressing Appreciation

It’s clear as Kyle shares his story, you hear expressions of appreciation and passion. Clearly, like Kyle, each student of his comes with a different story, something different to express. Each is an expression of their heart. This same heart, this work and devotion from both Kyle and Anthony, is helping connect more students with their passion.

“I’m happy I’m in the place I’m meant to be. I have everything I ever wanted from teaching, that I didn’t get as a working chef,” says Kyle. “The opportunity to teach culinary arts where I began my education, and to be a positive influence on the community that provided so much for me, is one that I take on with pride and vigor. I am energized by teaching and expressing what I love so much as a chef. I get to do that without the grueling schedule and overshadowing business responsibilities. I hope I can pay forward even a small percentage of what I’ve been given on my personal and professional journey.” Heart of Fire

There is a time for giving and a time for receiving. A natural dance of life. Expressing and creating the best, evolving version of ourselves, is all that we can ask, and offer. Kyle Forson is a father, husband, son, coach, chef and above all, teacher. His journey as a child, an eager teenager, deep in the woods, inside and outside of the kitchen or classroom, are all a testament to a worthwhile journey in balancing both. His is a true heart of fire. n