Low Season Seville

Have your senses seduced in this vibrant, historic and traditional centre

Low Season: June, July, August

By Claire French

When it comes to Seville, there really are only two types of people: those who have never been but are dying to go; and those who have been who are already planning their return.

Spend a weekend or spend a month, either way this Andalucian capital will capture your mind, soul and taste buds with its characteristic sultry exoticism. Many people prefer to travel during the winter, spring and autumn and escape the northern European climate. However, to avoid peak crowds and get amazing deals, consider the low season months of June, July and August. Yes, it will be steamy with temperatures reaching the high 30s or more, but with research and planning, you can have an unforgettable experience at this time.

Magnificent landmarks

Star Wars fans will do a double take at the stunning Plaza de España in beautiful Parque Maria Luisa. Covering the area of five football pitches, the sweeping 1929 structure combines styles from Art Deco, Renaissance, Baroque and Moorish architecture and was the setting of the City of Theed in Attack of the Clones. What a wonderful place to spend your time, especially after its €14 million government investment. Back in the old town explore the ornate Moorish Royal Alcazar and Seville’s magnificent cathedral, the world’s largest gothic structure and supposed burial place of adopted son Christopher Colombus. Its belltower, La Giralda, is visible across the city and is a handy landmark if you lose your way, which is kind of inevitable in the winding whitewashed narrow streets of Santa Cruz.

Plaza Espana

Messing about on the river

Ah the historic Guadalquivir. The closest thing that Sevillianos have to a seafront and a key player in Spain’s colonial past. Join the locals and stroll for miles along the pretty promenade. You’ll pass the Plaza de Toros, where you can pop in for a fascinating audio tour, and the Moorish Torre del Oro, brilliant against the bright blue sky. Stop for respite from the sun for refreshments in one of the shady river front bars. Get closer to the water with a cruise on the river. Boats depart regularly from the Torre del Oro costing €14 for an hour’s cruise. Or hire kayaks for a fun and relaxing experience. Several companies offer guiding and include safety briefings and snacks.

Triana

Cross the river at Puente Isabel II, Spain oldest iron bridge, and reach the quieter neighbourhood of Triana. Many tourists never make it to this side but it’s well worth the trip. It’s the place to buy local ceramics and there’s even a museum dedicated to the craft. Try Santa Ana Ceramics close to the bridge. They don’t close for siesta, but they do rest on Sundays. Nearby is the authentic Triana Market busting with flowers, fruit and a load of food stalls selling fresh salmorejo (like gazpacho) and hand carved jamon. Come sit and eat with the locals before venturing to the old church of Santa Ana built in 1266 which is home to a painting of sisters Rufina and Justa, 3rd century potters and Seville’s patron saints.

TOP EXPERIENCES

Flamenco

Feel the passion of the foot stomping, hand clapping, guitar strumming flamenco. Find Peña Flamenca Fernando del Valle Niño de la Alfalfa for a real local experience every Saturday.

Cooking class at Estraperlo

Fun and friendly lessons at this super cafe near Parque Maria Luisa. Book ahead. Estraperlo also prepares food for take away and a has a lovely organic shop.

Las Setas by night

When the heat of the day is over, head up the amazing modernist wooden structure of the Metropol Parasol. It a fab experience and you’ll gain great views over the city.

Metropol Parasol by night

FOOD AND DRINK

El Pasaje Santa Maria La Blanca

Tucked away down a winding alley, this lovely venue has delicious a la carte options or a choice of set menus. The carrillada de cerdo, slow cooked pork cheeks, are a real treat.

Bar La Teresas

In the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz this busy traditional tapas bar is compete with hanging jamons. Does awesome chickpeas and spinach, one of the region’s most delicious dishes for vegetarians.

Orange wine

Everyone’s heard of Seville oranges, but you must try the city’s orange wine while you’re here. This sweet aperitif is a delicious novelty and makes a great souvenir to take home as well.

Bar Las Teresas

INSIDER TIPS

• In the hot low season, do as the locals do and start early. Insert a siesta into your afternoon and then continue adventuring until (very) late.

• Even in low season, there can be queues for tickets to enter the stunning cathedral. Think smart and pre-book online for the same price and go straight through.

• Climb the staircases at Plaza de España to the first floor balconies for a different perspective and fabulous views. The central balcony is particularly magnificent.

Metropol Parasol

GOOD TO KNOW

• Seville has a happening rooftop terrace scene. Ideal for enjoying an evening breeze. Terraza Hotel Doña Maria is a good pick for cocktails and live music.

• Mudejar style is unique to the area with Christian rulers designing in a Moorish style using Moorish architects and labourers. The Real Alcazar is a perfect example.

• If you are in Seville for a longer stay, fascinating day trips to the nearby cities of Granada, Cordoba or Ronda are possible by train or with a car rental.