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Andalucía’s cultural wonders
Andalucía’s Cultural Wonders
By Ryan Maley
Andalucían adventures: Low season delights in sultry southern Spain
Passion, culture, identity. Despite being Spain’s most southerly region, for me Andalucía is undoubtedly the country’s beating heart. Shaped by a melting pot of distinct cultures that are evident in the region’s food, architecture, and language, Andalucía boasts an abundance of attractions, gastronomic adventures, and secrets for discerning travellers to uncover.
With one of the best climates in Europe for sun-chasers, southern Spain is the perfect getaway for low seasons. Whilst the cities are sweltering from June-August, the shoulder seasons can offer perfect weather and fewer crowds, especially as inhabitants from inland Spain tend to summer along the coast in the south. Flights from the UK to the gateway airport of Málaga are easily attainable for £50£100 return in the low seasons, a price that should put the region right to the top of your travel list.
El Acebuchal
El Acebuchal is a secluded village in the municipality of Cómpeta, just north of the well-known whitewashed village of Frigiliana. The village was in a historically important location between the coast and Granada, allowing the trade of goods between the two.
In 1948, the Franco regime’s Guardia Civil ordered the 200 inhabitants of El Acebuchal to leave the rural village, suspecting that the locals were helping the rebels’ fight. The village was left to fall to ruin in the 50 years that followed, becoming known locally as the ‘lost village’ of El Acebuchal.
50 years later, Antonio Sánchez, the son of one of the original inhabitants, returned with his family and set about the task of rebuilding the village. Excitement about the project grew, and others also returned to rebuild their own homes. Today, the small, quirky village has been restored to its former glory, and is becoming a popular site for rural tourism.
Antonio owns the main bar and restaurant in the village, which is worth the trip alone. Given the spectacular location in the Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama Natural Park, local produce and game feature heavily on the menu, but the showstopper has to be their stunning homemade bread and oil. Take a seat on the terrace and appreciate how the hard work and dedication of Antonio and his family have brought the village back to life.
Las Alpujarras
Nestled along the slopes of Andalucía’s Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra is a famous collection of traditional white pueblos straddling the provinces of Granada and Almería. Typified by the white flat-roofed buildings and narrow streets built by the Berber population after the Moorish occupation of the region, the villages remain incredibly fertile thanks to the annual snow-melt of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
The most well-known of the villages are the trio of those in the Poqueira valley: Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira. These three villages have capitalised on the touristic interest in the region, and have plenty of accommodation, attractions, and restaurants available for those wanting to make the picturesque trip up into the mountains. However, for an experience of true rural life in Spain’s low seasons, you should also take a wander through some of the quiet streets of the lesser-known villages such as Mecina Fondales or Ferreirola.
Mountain skiing - Pradollano, Sierra Nevada, Spain Sheltered fireplace with jarapas in the Alpujarra of Granada
Bodegas Bentomiz
For those that say that the climate in Málaga is too hot for a successful winery, Bodegas Bentomiz is here to prove them wrong. The success of the winery, located just above the unassuming village of Sayalonga, is down to the hard work of Dutch couple Clara and André. After lovingly restoring the vineyard, which contains 80 to 100-year-old vines, the couple began creating a range of fantastic wines that can now be found in over 20 European Michelinstarred restaurants.
The spectacular building at the heart of the vineyard was meticulously designed by André to house a restaurant, winery, and offices, and is clad in Indian slate that complements the slate in the Andalucían soil. From here, Bodegas Bentomiz offer winery tours, tastings, lunches, and special events. Taking a tour in the low season allows visitors to experience the different stages of the life-cycle of the vineyard, from the sun-drying of the grapes on local ‘paseros’ (raisin-beds) to the trimming of the previous years’ shoots at the end of winter. Be sure to stick around for the lunch and wine tasting where André, who is also the head chef, develops a local, seasonal menu that perfectly balances with their wine.
Sierra Nevada
Despite being famous for its wonderful Mediterranean climate, a low season visit to Andalucía can, surprisingly, offer fantastic opportunities for skiing. Just 45 minutes from the stunning city of Granada lies Europe’s most southerly ski resort in the Sierra Nevada National Park. Operating from November to May, the Pradollano ski resort offers over 100km of slopes ranging from easy to difficult, and boasts the largest ski slope in Spain amongst its 131 pistes. The Sierra Nevada Ski Station in Pradollano lies within the municipality of Monachil, which is certainly worth a visit itself. However, you can mix up your trip with a visit to the warmer climes of Granada, unbelievably just 35km away. The city has plenty to offer, not least the awe-inspiring Alhambra Palace, an opulent Moorish palace complex and gardens set against the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Caminito del Rey
Lying in the centre of the Province of Málaga lies the natural park of the ‘Desfiladero de los Gaitanes’. Easily accessible by train and car from Málaga city centre, this area of outstanding natural beauty is perfect for hiking and exploring in the cooler low seasons of Spain.
At the heart of the natural park is an incredible gorge, with the best views coming from the Caminito del Rey, a 3km, 100ft high suspended walkway between the walls of the canyon. Originally constructed at the start of the 20th Century and named after the visit of the monarch Alfonso XIII in 1921, the walkway fell into disrepair before being completely restored and reopened in 2015.
Take a guided tour of the Caminto del Rey in the cooler and quieter low season in order to find out more about the families that lived nearby and used the original vertigo-inducing walkway, as well as the flora and fauna present, such as the large colony of Griffon Vultures.