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Low Season Goa: No Reservations Requirded...
EXPLORING THE CULINARY DELIGHTS OF LOW SEASON GOA - By Katha Nauriyal
Goa promises a wealth of culinary experiences. But for many, its peak season is also synonymous with understaffed eateries, overpriced menus, and throngs of visitors jostling to take beachfront selfies. Some go viral on Instagram and become so hyped that waiting in hour-long queues this time of the year feels like a norm.
Luckily, the quieter months offer ample space to unwind and slow down even in this party capital. You can enjoy gloriously lazy vacations and eat mindfully at popular hangout joints.
Hoping for a respite from the heaving crowds, while still savouring the region’s inimitable bustle, contributor Katha Nauriyal flies to Goa before the holiday rush. She shares her experience of checking out some of the state’s most highly sought-after restaurants and hotels without the fuss.
Vaayu Kula & Prana, Mandrem
I’m spending my initial days in a tranquil coastal fishing village in Mandrem. It’s tucked away in North Goa, which is ironically famous for its throbbing party scene. Finding a laid back, intimate getaway here is often tricky, but with a stay at Vaayu Kula, I’m able to find solace even in the midst of the hustle.
At this charming family-owned beachfront boutique hotel, my itinerary includes taking early-morning dips in the ocean, followed by afternoon naps under large parasols.
Every now and then, I head to their tastefully-designed restaurant called Prana Mandrem for its decadent meals and picturesque sea views.
“I’d say this time of the year (October) is one of the best seasons. It’s post-monsoon, so there are waves if you like to surf, with greenery everywhere. Plus, it’s before the peak season; there’s a new energy. Everyone’s gearing up for the holidays with just the right amount of crowd,” shares CoFounder Jill, as I chat with her over a refreshing bowl of chia smoothie.
Despite its popularity, the restaurant is able to preserve its intimate atmosphere, and the absence of noise feels just right. They serve a vegan fare that’s as delicious as its meaty counterpart. While I dig into my Spicy Beef Tataki and Vegan Taco, a couple of rescue dogs around the property keep me entertained. Mowgli, one of the canine companions, is frolicking in the waters alongside visitors, while a three-legged pup is playfully chasing a baby lizard on the beach.
“At Prana Mandrem we serve classic surfer food with wholesome portions to minimise waste. We even use the same fish in various recipes to prevent wastage. Biodegradable straws and water stations are available to refill glass bottles and cut down on plastic consumption,” she adds.
Vaayu Kula is among the few properties in the area that still have special access for local villagers to use the beach, and a discreet entrance that helps avoid commercial crowds.
The decor is inspired by the coastal communities of India, and the whole place is dotted with antiques from around the country. Its tropical ambiance is accentuated by designs from Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Mexico and the Konkan belt of India.
After a rejuvenating day, I’m ready to retire to my bedroom, which is both spacious and sumptuous. Soothing colour palettes, high ceilings and comfy furnishings are all bathed in natural light. Outside, a private sitting area offers breezy vistas of the beach.
“The wooden beams used for the roofs of the rooms were harvested from trees that were uprooted during the 2021 cyclone in Goa. Wherever possible, we try to use antique furniture and upcycled wood in our building and its decor to reduce the need for fresh-cut trees,” Jill tells me.
Vaayu Kula also hosts facilities for yoga, watersports, surfing and wellness-focused activities. “We’re a community of surfers, and when the ocean is a part of your lifestyle, you tend to care more about marine life and the environment in general. For instance, during off-season, when the company appointed by the Department of Tourism to clean the beaches is not working, we hold daily beach clean-ups in front of our hotel.”
Slow Tide, Anjuna
Anjuna Beach, also in the north, is among the most touristy districts of Goa. It’s known for trance parties, music festivals and hipster bars that crowd its shores. Luckily, I’m able to sit back with my Martini and uninterruptedly watch the waves breaking — a sight that may have been rare during the peak season.
I’m at Slow Tide for a laid-back sundowner, a scenic restaurant that pays homage to Anjuna’s hippie heritage. Its bohemian, shack-like interiors go well with the in-house cocktails like Amsterdam Dave (named after a hippie who called Anjuna his home in the 70s) and Acid Erik (a notorious drug dealer).
It has large al-fresco seating areas, adorned with literature and artsy elements that perfectly recapture the mantra of music, dance and celebrating life.
I’ve found myself a quiet corner at its sea-facing terrace bar. While away from the masses, I’m still able to bask in the teeming energy all around. The restaurant’s multi-level open spaces are a great spot for me to sit back and observe visitors posing against the stunning sunsets of the beach — all while I eat my weight! The Red Snapper Crudo, Jaffna Crab and Mangalorean Mit Mirsang Masala Fish Cake taste especially fresh this season. The creamy Jack’s Burrata is the cherry on top.
“While winter is of course the peak time in Goa, I personally enjoy the monsoons here. In fact, if you stand on the deck of the restaurant, you’re able to feel the might of the sea and watch the waves swell dramatically,” one of the patrons who’s also a regular customer of the restaurant points out. “Some of the walls have moss growing on them, so you can almost witness parts of the architecture change with the seasons.”
Bawri, Assagao
Once a quaint hamlet, overshadowed by the more touristy parts, Assagao has evolved into the latest hotbed of Goa. Travellers flock in for its swanky bars and Insta-worthy dining establishments with Bawri being the latest entrant to the scene.
Since becoming one of the trendiest restaurants on social media, it’s recommended to make reservations as far in advance as possible. In my case, however, I’m swiftly escorted in without having to wait in line. “You’re visiting at the right time. We just had a busy long weekend and will soon begin prepping for Diwali celebrations next month,” a staff member explains.
As it turns out, Bawri totally lives up to its reputation. It’s a breath of fresh air with the ideal setting to savour its special menu of slow-cooked recipes. Koi ponds, macrame hangings, potted plants and rattan chairs elevate your dining experience. Fortunately, it also has the right number of diners, with enough space for me to absorb the inviting ambiance.
The pièce de résistance is the floating cabana that I’ve seen all over social media. I quickly call dibs on it, which may not have been possible during the holiday season.
The menu at Bawri features heirloom recipes with indigenous ingredients and local spices. Even as I binge on the flavourful Thecha Potatoes and Mutton Nihari, the whole place is so aesthetically done that I can’t help leaving my meals in between to capture it on my phone. The Slow-Cooked Shank and Bawri Butter Chicken are perfect comfort foods on this slightly nippy evening. If you’re also visiting during this time of the year, be sure to order the seasonal white carrot halwa for a delightful final touch.
Jamun, Assagao
Lovingly resorted in an age-soaked Portuguese villa, also in Assagao, Jamun remains ever-popular no matter what time of the year.
You can settle down for an al-fresco dining experience under a canopy of stars. Or, head indoors for the glowy port-bottle chandelier and woven cane bar counter. Either way, I can spot poppy purple colours of the Jamun fruit everywhere — from walls to upholstery, to even on the sleeves of the servers.
The menu bursts with flavourful innovations. There are Goan spices infused in recipes from all around the country. However, the Jamun Ras Mocktail (Jamun puree with chaat masala), Jamun Sorbet, and Filter Coffee Ice Cream are among the first of the many unique dishes that catch my eye.
The Jamun Sour, a tarty Indian twist to the classic Whiskey Sour, is the star of the show. But the Tamarind Margarita, Tulsi and Kokum Panna are equally refreshing summer drinks in case you’re visiting then.
From March to May, while considered the hottest months, you can still experience the feni (local liquor made of cashew or coconut) harvesting season across the state. Jamun also boasts a selection of feni, including Cuzalo Cashew and Ani Ek Insused Feni.
The Pan-fried Sea Crabs, Pork Roast, Til Ke Aloo, and fragrant Mutton Biryani are all worth the visit. Plus, the restaurant offers a variety of fresh local catch, including pomfret and tiger prawns. So make sure to check with the staff for seasonal specials while making your reservation.
