LOW SEASON JERSEY

Military fortresses, mystical shores and magnificent seafood

By Claire French

Low Season: October - April

If you had to put money on guessing where in the beautiful British Isles boasts the sunniest spot, just where would you risk your hard earned cash? Newquay? Margate? Brighton maybe? You’d be wrong. For yet another year this prestigious accolade goes to the unique isle of Jersey. Tucked into the Bay of St Malo and just 14 miles from Normandy, the largest of the Channel Islands enjoys a continental climate and a melded heritage. A fusion of Britain and Brittany. A Gallic twist on your staycation.

With miles of golden beaches, plenty of outdoor adventures and easy access from the UK by ferry or flight, Jersey is a dream summer destination. From October though visitor numbers begin to drop off and Jersey returns to its most authentic self until numbers rise again in March. It is worth noting that with 2379 annual hours of sunshine (2021 records), the low season forecast remains kind, and although you may well find some days of rain, drizzle and wind, overall autumn and winter are great time to enjoy this

Keep in mind that some of the popular attractions like the Nazi War Tunnels, La Hougue Bie Neolithic house; and Elizabeth Castle close in winter, so do check if those are sites you really want to experience. However, there are so many year-round opportunities combined with some unique low season events that you’ll never be short of a packed itinerary. The small capital St Helier remains bustling throughout the year. It’s an historic centre, a charming blend of the familiar logos of Boots, WHSmith and Marks & Spencer mixed with exclusive boutiques and stalls offering the best continental produce. So, jump aboard a short flight and experience beautiful walks, legendary golf courses, fascinating Neolithic sites, and local gin distilleries. Oh, and mouth-watering cuisine served up in Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional country pubs or outdoor street cafes.

Where has all the Water Gone?

Thanks to Jersey’s petite size, just 9 by 5 miles, you’re never more than a 15 minute drive from a beach. And what beaches they are! From the north’s towering heather clad cliffs and the southern golden sands, there are nearly 30 beaches to explore.

A favourite is St Ouen on the west coast, a popular surfing haven and the perfect spot for sunset views. Keep in mind that Jersey has the third largest tidal range in the world meaning the island doubles in size when the tide is out, revealing a dramatic lunar landscape of sailing boats perched high in dry harbours, rock pools for crabbing, and seabed walks.

Take the low tide causeway to the iconic La Corbiere Lighthouse, surrounded by WWII monuments or explore gullies as you walk to Seymour Tower, an 18th century fortress a mile offshore. Join a kayak tour and look for caves, remote beaches, and bottle nosed dolphins. Learn to scuba dive or join a fishing expedition seeking the freshest ever seafood, brown crab, winkles, and lobsters.

I Would Walk 500 Miles

Jersey is a great place for getting outdoors with 500 miles of walks on your doorstep and low season is the perfect time for a hike before a well-deserved pint of Liberation Ale in one of the island’s many traditional pubs.

Jersey’s National Park is a beautiful place to explore nature with a diverse landscape and opportunities to spot wildlife. Check out the National Trust for Jersey’s free downloadable pdf for self-guided walks. A favourite ramble is along the coastal path to the spectacular Devil’s Hole blowhole, stopping by one of Jersey’s oldest pubs, the historic Priory Inn, with its cosy log fire.

Low season is the very best period for birdwatchers with the mild winter climate, strategic position and wide tidal range acting as a magnet to for both migrating and residential birds like little egrets, Brent geese and puffins. Birders should definitely check out the Jersey Wetland Centre located on the west side of the island overlooking St. Ouen’s Pond.

To go even further, explore the island on two wheels. Jersey has miles of bicycle friendly routes as well as an extensive network of 15mph ‘Green Lanes’ which will take you safely through the island’s countryside.

Military Might

The shoreline of Jersey is littered with wonderful examples of medieval fortifications, remnants of a strategic past, an era when Jersey was defended as a site of great importance in countless battles between the forces of Europe.

Mount Orgueil, one of the finest examples of a medieval castle, has cast its shadow over the beautiful fishing village of Gorey for over 800 years and remains open in November and December. Although Elizabeth Castle closes for winter at the end of October, keen photographers have achieved some spectacularly dramatic low season images of the magnificent fortress set on its rocky islet against a foreboding sky.

Aerial view of the Mont Orgueil Castle

Also very much in evidence is the more recent history which saw the Channel Islands become the only British territory taken by Hitler’s troops. Although the period is resigned to history, there are many islanders who will tell tales of those long years of extreme hardship. Interested tourists can follow the Liberation Route Forced Workers Trail which introduces 20 locations linked to the experiences of wartime foreign labourers. Over their five year occupation 11,000 German soldiers built their battery positions, strongholds and bunkers which were never destroyed but rather have become assimilated into today’s post-war infrastructure. An example is the fortification line along the coast of St. Ouen, now a popular promenade for couples, dog walkers, runners and families.

The 18th century Seymour Tower

TOP EXPERIENCES

Walk with Stars at your Feet

Jersey’s tidal range means that when the water retreats you can discover a rare natural phenomenon, the bioluminescence greenish light of tiny glow worms that live on the seabed. Take a guided walk with Jersey Walk Adventures for the full experience.

Plemont Bay Rockpools

On the northwest tip of the island is one of the most beautiful beaches. Descend the steep steps and discover a sandy cove with dramatic views, rock pools, Jersey’s largest caves and a fresh water waterfall. Unsurprisingly it’s a favourite spot for photographers.

Support Jersey Zoo

Opened by Gerald Durrell over 60 years ago this renowned institution leads the way in protecting and breeding endangered species from around the world. It’s a stunning 32 acre park and home to over 1400 mammals and birds including bears, gorillas and orangutans.

FOOD & DRINK

El Tico, St. Ouen’s Bay

For some of the island’s most glorious sunsets, visit one of Britain’s oldest surf schools and Jersey’s original beach café cantina for great food and drinks. This historic casual diner also offers movie nights, live music and good company.

Bohemia Restaurant, St Helier

Enjoy a sophisticated Michelin starred experience at the renowned Bohemia. Take afternoon tea, or book a classic, pescatarian or vegetarian tasting menu at the Chef’s Table overlooking the pass where all the action takes place.

Sumas, Gorey Hill, St Martin

Sumas is a boutique restaurant at the east of the island. Dine on local seafood like Royal Bay oysters, scallops or potted brown shrimp overlooking Mont Orgueil Castle and the harbour of Gorey. Casual fine dining at its best.

Delicious Royal Bay Oysters

INSIDER TIPS

Taxis can be pricy and there is no Uber in Jersey. Consider bringing your car over by ferry or hire a car on arrival for totally flexibility. Alternatively the bus system is phenomenally easy and clean. Choose a ticket to anywhere for a flat fee, or a 1, 2, 3 or 7 day unlimited pass.

Open all year round Tuesdays to Saturdays, Faulkners Fishery can be found at The Vivier, a converted Second World War German Bunker at L’Etacq in beautiful St. Ouen. Independently family owned for 40 years this is the perfect place to buy your local catch of the day.

Try out the ‘Big Four’ - cheese or ice cream from the iconic Jersey cow; fresh oysters the largest oyster beds in the British Isles; locally caught lobster; and the famous Jersey Royal potatoes which get their unique flavour from the mineral rich seaweed that cultivates the land.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Low season indulgences include the 6 week long Tennerfest when top restaurants serve sample set menus; the 3 day black butter making festival; La Fais ‘side d’Cidre autumn cider fair in the beautiful surroundings of the Hamptonne museum; and the Simply Christmas artisan market.

• Just a short walk from St Helier you can reach the iconic Havre de Pas, a tidal lido bathing pool, originally constructed in the 1890s. It’s linked to the shore by beautiful art deco boardwalks and is replenished with fresh seawater at each tide. Free of charge and open year round.

• Visit the intriguing site of Les Monts Grantez excavated in 1912, a Neolithic passage grave built around 4000BC, known as Lé Cuex ès Faît’tchieaux, the place of the fairies; or La Pouquelaye de Faldouet, a similar Neolithic grave, with 24-ton capstone covering the end chamber.