June 2019

Page 1


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VOL. 47, NO. 1

JUNE 2019

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New website promotes tourism in the Ozark foothills By MATTIE LINK

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mattie@riverhillstraveler.com _____________

he Poplar Bluff Chamber of Commerce, partnering with the City of Poplar Bluff and the Missouri Division of Tourism, has launched a new regional tourism project, “See The Ozarks.” Seetheozarks.com is a tourism information website for outdoors enthusiasts traveling around Southeastern Missouri’s rivers, lakes, springs, and forests. “The website was built to be a com-

prehensive travel resource for visitors that focuses on the many beautiful natural points of interest in the Ozark foothills,” said Steve Halter, Poplar Bluff Chamber of Commerce president. “At the Chamber, we have always been in the tourism business and in the last five years we have really upped our game in that.” The Chamber applied to the Missouri Division of Tourism (MDT) and Destination Marketing Organization (DMO) certificates, to make all their tourism work official and get some additional

Small waters, big fun!

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took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.” For just over a century, these words have been an invitation to get off the beaten path in our journey through life. An inspiration to seek the more-wild of nature; the less urbane in where we traverse. These past few Rick Mansfield weeks I have done ———— just that. Taken Reflections guidance from from the Road Robert Frost’s iconic poem and sought the “road not taken.” The thoroughfares I was seeking were of water. Clear, spring-fed Ozark streams abundant with life and opportunity. Devoid of fellow companions. In that lay the challenge. I ventured into northern Shannon Please see WATERS, 15

funding for that. “Last year we found out that we could do three counties, so in addition to ours we applied for Carter County and Wayne County,” said Halter. The Chamber was granted that and now is acting on their behalf as well as their own as the Ozark foothills region. “When we met with them they loved the idea and we have applied for grantmatch funding for Wayne, Carter, and Butler counties, that we are fairly confident we will be receiving,” said Halter. Please see SETO, 14

Take time for the Bourbeuse

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By Michelle Turner he Bourbeuse River may have gotten its name from the French word for muddy, but that certainly doesn’t stop floaters and anglers from enjoying this 154-mile river that makes its crooked path through five counties until it meets the Meramec in Franklin County near Moselle, just south of Union. Leigh Kolb, an instructor at East Central College in Union, has been exploring the Bourbeuse for the past 14 years. “The water isn’t cold and clear like many of Missouri’s spring-fed floating rivers, but because it isn’t overcrowded by tourists, you feel a sense of being one with untouched nature,” Kolb said. Please see CALM, 14


Page 2 • June 2019

What it takes to get a ‘lesser-known float streams’ story W hen asked about occupation, I no longer say that I’m retired. I am too busy to claim that distinction. So, sometimes I tell people “I’m a freelance writer.” Just one of many obligators of my time. Now for those not sure of that vocation, I will relate my most recent endeavors. By the time this is published, I will have completed my most recent assignment. Assignments, I should say. For I have been toiling at submissions for two separate periodicals. The first, just a “few notes and pictures” for a piece that will hopefully drive some tourist business to our area. Rick Mansfield ———— Told about a parReflections ticularly great view from the Road from a local bluff, I timed things just right to walk briskly up a steep hill (amazing how quickly one gets out of shape) and arrived as the sun began to set. Took multiple shots with three different cameras. Best results were from my iPhone. Who would have thought? I wish to give credit where it is due. I do not mind not always getting picture credit myself. But as this camera was assembled by workers that frequently jump from the edge of their floor to “quit” their occupation, often enough that Apple has installed “safety nets” to save lives and workers; I wish the phone device to be acknowledged. Probably little of my stuff will even be used.

The next assignment is for friends that publish an outdoor magazine monthly. I was to go in search of “lesser-known float streams.” What readers will enjoy is my travel down two much smaller, less traversed venues. Beautiful gems that are a mix of public and private land; floatable legally by respecting the rights of those areas where the stream sides are privately owned. What they will NOT read about are the failed efforts; the little wet weather streams I tried that were blocked by low-water barbwire gates. A couple of portages where I carried a “much more stable” kayak that almost deserved its own zip code. The paddle I had to replace because it was all that stood between me and a small, but contrary swaybacked old horse defending its owner’s property rights. (The horse was unharmed; the paddle used to help propel the aforementioned watercraft over the nearest fence. It was left as tribute for the horse). Readers will NOT see pictures of the several fish I caught on one of the streams, as being a virtual novice to kayaking I was never able to navigate the stream, land the fish AND retrieve the camera from its waterproof container all at once. Being in a canoe on a flush river fared no better picture-wise. I did get a nice shot of fried rock bass and potatoes once ashore! The readers of this wonderful, nearly half-century old magazine will NOT see nor read about my overnight camping. It didn’t happen. Flash flood warnings and thunderstorm alerts drove me and my aluminum Grumman off the water and initiated a change in plans. An

A cave on Barren Fork provides floaters something else to explore.

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Twin Springs

overnight trip became a two-day trip, with several days in-between the two sections. Readers will NOT read about the debris I decided to collect; its presence marring an otherwise beautiful adventure.

Sinkin’ Creek

Nor about the fact that as maneuver’able as they are, kayaks and spines in their seventh decade are not that compatible. Joys of freelance. (Rick Mansfield can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)


June 2019 • Page 3

RiverHillsTraveler.com

What we have now is a new norm & memories

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he young man sitting beside me was an ambitious fella from Poplar Bluff, Mo. He was hungry to ride shotgun in my canoe for a day. I was taking him fishing for smallmouth bass here in the Ozarks. The young man had read one of my smallmouth fishing stories in some magazine and decided he would like to spend a day floating and fishing from my canoe. He told me that he wanted to float a stream that has been an inspiration to me. He said he wanted to experience what I had experienced. That summer morning came. As we drove he asked me questions about the Little Black River. Will we see any snakes? Do you Richard think the fish will Whiteside be biting? How many times have ———— you been there? I smiled at his excitement. New places do that to people like him and like me. Anticipation is a word that is used to describe the feeling one has as they tie on a large topwater plug in July on an Ozark stream, and we were past ready. Pushing off with the paddle blade the canoe came alive. The canoe came alive as the current of the river grabbed it. It felt good to be back on familiar waters with so many early life memories. Looking upstream where the Big Eddy heads up, I looked up through the narrow run and riffle. I launched a heavy Pop R 35 yards upstream in the lower end of the riffle and within 3 seconds the water exploded. My plug was now in the mouth of a 3-pound river largemouth. Just that fast, before he had even gotten his plug selected for the morning, he could already feel the front of the canoe where he was sitting being turned from the weight of me horsing the first fish of the day with my 12 lb. test line. I think that is when he realized the

benefit of heavy line on your spool. The guy was an experienced lake fisherman that had caught his fair share of crappie out of Wappapello Lake. Even though he was a lifelong fisherman, to him this style of fishing was very much new in every way. Side-casting was something he had never practiced, and side-casting and hitting your mark with the plug is something you need to be able to do while float fishing tight Ozark streams from a canoe. After a few miles we came to an area where many families used to frequent on hot summer weekends. Local clannish hill folks of long bloodlines would camp there on that flat spot I told him. I snugged the canoe up to the left bank. Pointing to the other bank I began to describe to him my childhood. “Over there is where the old sycamore tree once stood that had a

rope swing in it,” I said. “The hole of water was deep back then and no lily pads were here. The sound of people and kids playing was in the air along with the smell of a campfire and BBQ. “Beside our canoe used to be a spring where we kept our watermelon and cantaloupes.”

As he looked down in the river all the way across you could see the scum-layered bottom. The deep hole of water is only in my memory. I told him this is why we catch mostly Kentuckys and largemouth these days. The days of big smallmouth and goggle-eyes are long gone and this is the new norm, I told him. Between the river filling in with gravel, nutrient pollution and otters being released, we have lost a lot of fish. The gooney birds (cranes) have decimated the small fish and river bullfrogs, I told him. “When I was a kid I could fill a coffee can with crawdads in an hour. No more crawdads,” I said. We were lucky enough to watch one crane pluck a half-dozen baby bass out of the shoal in the time it took us to eat our bologna sandwiches. “Times that by thousands of cranes doing that from daylight to dark,” I said. “It’s a wonder any fish are left.” A few bends down we were at the old baptizing hole. His words were “it’s so shallow now you couldn’t baptize a baby.” Told him it didn’t used to look like this. On the way back to town I told him that he will never actually see what inspired me as a young person, that river is gone now. What we have now is a new norm and memories. (Richard Whiteside lives in Doniphan, Mo., and can be reached at rlwhiteside72@gmail.com. His blog can be followed at www.ozarkriverman.wordpress. com.)

Lost Your o Leasse?

WA ANT YOUR OWN FA O ARM? RM?

2019 HUNTING DATES IN MISSOURI

2019 FALL TURKEY HUNTING DATES • Fall Firearms Turkey Season: Oct. 131 2019–2020 ARCHERY DEER AND TURKEY HUNTING DATES • Sept. 15 through Nov. 15 and Nov. 27 through Jan. 15, 2020 2019 – 2020 FIREARMS DEER HUNTING DATES • Firearms Deer Early Youth Portion: Nov. 2-3 • Firearms Deer November Portion: Nov. 16-26

• Firearms Deer Late Youth Portion: Nov. 29-Dec. 1 • Firearms Deer Antlerless Portion: Dec. 6-8 • Firearms Deer Alternative Methods Portion: Dec. 28 through Jan. 7, 2020. Details on hunting regulations, harvest limits, allowed methods, required permits, and other related information will be available in MDC’s “2019 Spring Turkey Hunting Regulations and Information” and MDC’s “2019 Fall Deer & Turkey Hunting Regulations and Information” booklets. Both are available where permits are sold prior to the related seasons.

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FFIND YOUUR FAAVVORITTE PLACE Call Joe Pen ndergrass

57 73 368-1402

EACH MOSSY OAK PROPE ERTIES OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OW WNED AND OPERATED.


Page 4 • June 2019

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Anniversary of ‘Super Derecho’; Mingo photos

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or the month of June, Table Rock Lake is celebrating National Camping and Great Outdoors Month. Summer is here and it’s time to get out your tents, put on your hiking shoes, and get out and explore our beautiful great outdoors. Throughout the month, the Dewey Short Visitor Center will feature displays and activities for visitors of all ages to learn about various outdoor opportunities and how to be safe this summer. The visitor center is open daily from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. Located just south of Table Rock Dam on State Highway 165 in Branson, it offers several interactive displays, a Jimmy Sexton 22-minute film ———— about the purpose Journey On and construction of the dam, and viewing decks overlooking Table Rock Lake and dam. Picnic facilities and a 2.2 mile asphalt surface trail are also located on the visitor center grounds. Park rangers will provide short programs on Table Rock Lake every Monday, Wednesday and Friday beginning at 11 a.m. The visitor center is a great place to take the family, with clean restrooms and lots to do inside and out. And, sitting on the outside deck of the facility, you have an excellent view of the lake and dam. Plus, and don’t hold me to this, I believe you can see the Fourth of July fireworks from across the lake. ——— Ten years ago, a fast-moving complex of severe thunderstorms brought damaging winds, large hail, tornadoes,

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while back ago I wrote about some changes, big and small, between today and 150 years ago in the Missouri Ozarks as related to wildlife, domestic animals, landscape, crops, etc. In the same column I briefly mentioned that just a few decades before the timeframe being talked about, elk and buffalo roamed our hills and prairies. I got to thinking about that afterward, and wondered if anyone doubted the asserWes Franklin tion that bison ———— were here in Native Ozarker Southwest Missouri. If so, let me tell you a story. I actually don’t know how true it is, to be honest. It’s just one of those stories passed down into local lore. It was recorded in J.A. Sturges’ 1897 “Illustrated History of McDonald County, Missouri” and he said he received it from “reliable” sources. Before what is today Newton and McDonald counties were settled in the late 1820s and 1830s, there was an unnamed Catholic missionary who ven-

Trees damaged by the 2009 “Super Derech” that hit southern Missouri.

and flooding to southern Missouri.! NOAA’s Storm Prediction Center called this storm the “Super Derecho” because it was one of the most intense and unusual wind storms ever observed. The derecho produced significant and often continuous damage over a broad swath from the high plains of western Kansas to the foothills of the Appalachians in eastern Kentucky. Every Mark Twain National Forest ranger district was affected by the derecho.!There were power outages, damage to property, buildings, and recreation site facilities.!Trees were down across swaths of forest land.! Forest Service employees and other first responders spent the days immediately after the storm working to free campers and local residents trapped by roads obstructed by fallen trees.! When aerial flights could be made, it was estimated that more than 29,000 acres of Mark Twain National Forest lands received catastrophic damage, along with thousands of acres of private and state-owned lands.

Native bison tured into this wild country to evangelize the local Indian tribes. On the campaign, flash floods caused the party to come to a halt somewhere between a creek and a river. They were forced to camp out until the waters receded, and thus went hunting. And what did they find? A buffalo cow. Yes, it became supper, and probably many suppers, sustaining the missionary and his group until they could safely ford the waters and continue on their evangelical mission. The hide was tanned and preserved and the missionary named the creek “Buffalo Creek” to mark the occasion. The river he named “Cowskin,” which used to be another name for Elk River, and is still the name of the Elk River arm of Grand Lake. From that we also get Cowskin Prairie, of course. If the story about the buffalo cow is true it is just a quaint illustration of the fact that buffalo were at one time present in the area that most of you reading this call home. But I wouldn’t just count on that story alone, even if it could be confirmed as true. Bison remains have been found throughout Missouri, including Southwest Missouri, and verified as such. An interesting booklet titled “Bison in Missouri Archaeology” by R. Bruce McMillan can be downloaded from on-

The Forest Service spent much of the last decade addressing the management challenges created by the Super Derecho.!Timber blown down or damaged was salvaged through timber sale contracts and permits and sent to local mills.! Fuel breaks were created along roads and on ridges as a preventative measure in the event wildfires started in areas with heavy amounts of blown down trees.!Recreation facilities and trails were repaired and cleared.! Still today, the effects of the Super Derecho are felt when planning and implementing projects in hard hit areas of the national forest. ——— The 14th annual Mingo Swamp Friends Flora and Fauna Photo Contest is open for entries until Aug. 1. Youth and adults are invited to enter. Photos can be entered in any or all of four categories: native wildlife, native plants, people in nature, and Mingo landscapes. Photos of people and landscapes must be taken on the Mingo National Wildlife Refuge.

line for free for those really wanting to dive into an in-depth study. Or you can let me read it for you, which I did. The fact that bison were here up until at least the first part of the 1800s is simply treated as a given in the publication. I imagine very small herds of buffalo held out another decade or two after most of their kind moved west due to settlement and everything that meant. Buffalo have not been reintroduced to Missouri as elk have. What I mean by that is they are not truly wild. The herds are fenced in. I don’t really see a practical way to make it otherwise. That said, in 2012 it was announced that pureblood bison calves were born on a Missouri prairie for the first time since the 1840s. This happened at an enclosed tall grass prairie site managed by a non-profit organization in northwest Missouri. The buffalo are 100 percent bison, and not crossbred with domestic cattle in their lineage, part of one of only eight herds in the entire country that can claim such. So they aren’t technically “wild.” But they are native. Just like their ancestors. (Wes Franklin!can be reached by email at cato.uticensis46@gmail.com, or by USPS mail at 12161 Norway Road, Neosho, MO 64850.)

Photos will be judged on overall impact, technical excellence, originality, and subject matter appropriate to Mingo. Photos from youth and adults are judged separately. Contestants may enter any number of photos, but all photos must be 8”x10” in size. There is no entry fee for youth. There is a fee of $5 for each adult entry. A digital file of the photo must also be submitted. Winning photos will be matted for display by the Swamp Friends. Cash awards will be given for first, second and third place in each of the four categories, and for Best of Show for adults and for youth. The winning photos will be displayed in the coming year around southeast Missouri and St. Louis. The winning photos from 2011 through 2018 can be viewed on the Mingo Swamp Friends website at www.mingoswampfriends.org. Rules and entry forms are available on the website and at the Mingo National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center north of Puxico off Highway 51. Call (573) 222-3589 for more information. (Jimmy Sexton is owner and publisher of the River Hills Traveler. He can be reached by phone or text at (417) 451-3798, or jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com.)

On the Cover

A group of floaters enjoy a day on the Jacks Fork, outfitted by Windy’s Canoe Rental. (Photo by MyraGale Sexton)

River Hills Traveler 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850 Phone: (417) 451-3798 Fax: (417) 451-5188

www.riverhillstraveler.com Email: jimmy@riverhillstraveler. com Owner & Publisher Jimmy Sexton Managing Editor Madeleine Link Circulation Manager Rhonda Sexton Staff Writers Wes Franklin • Mike Roux Bill Wakefield • Bill Oder Judy Smith • Michelle Turner Dana Sturgeon • Bill Hoagland Richard Whiteside • Ronnie Moore Advertising Jimmy Sexton & Madeleine Link

River Hills Traveler, established in 1973, is published monthly by Sexton Media Group and Traveler Publishing Company. Postmaster: Send change of address notices to: River Hills Traveler, 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Subscription prices: $22 per year; 2 years, $40. Back issues available up to one year from publication, $5 plus sales tax & shipping. COPYRIGHT © 2019 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher of the River Hills Traveler or his duly appointed agent. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial submission for any reason.


June 2019 • Page 5

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Gentry Cave in Stone County

VINTAGE OZARKS

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entry Cave, a remote cave — on private land and hard to get to — three miles south of Galena in Stone County, was described by Louella Agnes Owen in Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills (1898). Hiking through the woods after the mail coach’s wheel broke, the intrepid lady cave explorer found the “broken” landscape captivating: “The topography was... very beautiful with the dense forest lighted by the slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun. The way leads up to the 'ridge road' which is at length abandoned for no road at all and descending through the forest, more than half the distance down to the James River flowing at the base of the hill, we come suddenly in view of the cave entrance, which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces of natural architecture ever seen.” From James Fork of the White: “She found the cave interior worth the walk but does not mention the abundance of bat guano that would later provide the basis for an unusual industry. During the lean Depression years, one C.L. Weekly and two hires shoveled tons of dried bat manure into hundred-pound bags and shipped it off to be used for greenhouse fertilizer. He got $35 a ton." The commercial exploitation of bat guano was also 5 years ago • The morning dawned cloudy and cool, a mere 69 degrees, after several days of 90 degree-plus weather. I welcomed the cooldown. The day before, I had endured 11 hours of pollen-filled winds and the blazing hot sun of Lake of the Ozarks, while pitching Senkos to bedding largemouth bass. Today, however, I would be accompanying Will Rollins on the Gasconade River for smallmouth bass. (Bill Cooper) • If you ask the average canoeing beginner what they want in a fishing canoe, chances are that stability will be at the top of their list. The reason for this is probably the folk wisdom that canoes are inherently tippy, reinforced by the hordes of paddlers that wend their wet way down the popular Ozark streams, crashing into rocks and logs and frequently flipping. But all canoe designs are compromises between tracking ability and maneuverability, and between speed and stability. (Al Agnew) 10 years ago • When the smallmouth bass crashed through the surface of the clear creek, I knew that I was back in a good place. My son’s rod bent, and his reel drag squeaked as the strong fish fought to get back under its log in the shadows of willow run. My son skillfully whipped the fish down and then eased the two-pounder out of the creek for our inspection. He smiled at me, I smiled at him, and the fish was released in the tail of the current run so it could find its way back home. (Ed Mashburn) • Waterspouts have different meanings to each enthusiast, but fishing is often a part of that activity. And, while many of us like to catch a few fish for fun or a

Real photo postcard by Galena photographer, D.F. Fox.

the first impetus for the development of Marvel Cave, which became the centerpiece of a much later tourist attraction in Stone County — Silver Dollar City. In Caves of Missouri (1956), J Harlan Bretz discusses Gentry Cave’s geology: “A rock shelter at Camp Ramona, 85 feet below cliff top and 50 feet above James River contains four of the five entrances to this joint-controlled cave system. Words are useless in describing the detailed interaction of passages; the cave pattern is too complicated.

"One place in the cave showed cherty gravel, but there is no other evidence for vadose occupation of this splendid phreatic cave system. No red clay remnants and very little dripstone were seen anywhere in the cave.” (This feature is courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Their most recent book, James Fork of the White, was published in 2017. Some pages from this book can be seen on www.beautifulozarks.com.)

REMEMBER WHEN

meal, our efforts don’t always pan out on busy holiday weekends. Coping with waterspouts traffic on a holiday weekend is a matter of changing fishing locations, presentations and expectations. Add to that, area lakes may be very murky from recent thunderstorms. When the water rises, fish move to shallow areas of flooded shoreline rocks or brush looking for minnows that are feeding on insect life. (Darrell Taylor) 20 years ago • Squirrel hunting has a long tradition in the Ozarks. Squirrels, more so than any other wild game species, have been the main course over innumerable time for hill country family meals. And, squirrels once ranked as the most sought-after game species in Missouri. Squirrel hunting today is not as popular as it once was, yet it still serves as an introduction to hunting for many upstarts. Additionally, squirrel hunting provides the individual hunter the opportunity to enjoy a great sport as well as to hone woodsman skills and sharpen shooting abilities. Squirrel hunting is also an activity that the whole family can enjoy. (Bill Cooper) • It was almost a non-story, in spite of a good-sounding theme. Consider. I was going fishing with a fellow who uses antique lures almost exclusively, but we were going to fish out of individual kayaks — something not new perhaps, but certainly new to Traveler’s pages.

Having told you that, what remains? We fished a section of the St. Francois River, we caught six different species, but all and all, the fishing was pretty slow that day. But as it turns out, I learned a lot about lures of yesteryear as well as today. Steve White, of St. Louis, is into antique lures both as a hobby and as a sideline business, and has a collection of 6,500 of the things. (Bob Todd) 30 years ago • Have you ever wished you actually could have been there to feel the roaring enthusiasm, be with the colorful characters and be part of the frenzied activity that marked the great California Gold Rush days of 1849? You may get your wish. Odds are, we Ozark folks may be plopped right in the middle of the great 1990s Ozark Gold Rush and it will be our doorstep that all those colorful gold rush characters will come rushing to. In April 1989, geologists from the Missouri Geological Survey, several other state geological surveys, the U.S. Geological Survey, various universities, and mining companies met in St. Louis to discuss the possibility that our Missouri Ozarks may contain giant lowgrade gold deposits. (Bill Judd) • The U.S. Forest Service has made considerable improvements to a place called Bay Nothing on Current River since I last spent any time there. Last time I’d been there at all by land, the road was so rough the kids I took

there to launch their canoes almost beat me back to Doniphan. (Bob Todd) 40 years ago • Jacks Fork. A simple name: concise, typically Ozark. No flowery adjectives, no fancy French or Indian names. Nothing to tell you what kind of stream it is. Current, at least, adequately describes one characteristic of that river. Jacks Fork. The largest tributary to Current River. Just a smaller version of the Current? A glance at a topographic map will show one of the features that make the Jacks Fork different. It is as close to a canyon river as you will find in the Missouri Ozarks; its valley narrow and steep-waled, a rugged, winding furrow across a relatively flat remnant of the Salem plateau. (Al Agnew) • The New Madrid earthquakes of 1811-1812 were probably the most violent recorded by man on the North American continent, and one of them, the one on Feb. 7, 1812, may have been the most violent in the world in historic times. In a previous story of this series, we learned of the adventure of a riverboat crier upstream from New Madrid during the night the Feb. 7 earthquake occurred. In the town of New Madrid, one settler who had not left the country due to the shocks, was Eliza Bryan and some years later, he wrote an account of what happened at New Madrid. (Bob Todd) (compiled by MyraGale Sexton)


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OHV riding on Mark Twain National Forest

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By Cody Norris ff-highway vehicle (OHV) riding is a great way to enjoy your national forest.!But to do it right and prevent natural resource damage,!OHV riders need to stay on designated roads and/or approved trail systems like those found at Chadwick and Sutton Bluff OHV Areas. For the purposes of riding on Mark Twain National Forest, the term OHV includes: ATVs (all-terrain vehicles, also known as four-wheelers); UTVs, (utility type vehicles, sometimes called side-by-sides); and offroad motorcycles (aka dirt bikes). Why is this important?!Once one person rides crosscountry, they have made the first pass of a user-created trail.!If someone else follows, then another, and another, soon this user-made trail looks like a regular trail and will continue to attract riders.! User-created trails create resource damage, including increased soil erosion, soil compaction, and negative impacts to stream channels and aquatic organisms (if traveling through streams and creeks). In areas where illegal use caused severe resource damage, agency personnel may have to consider closures.!Respected access to the country’s public lands ensures continued access.! Chadwick ATV, UTV, and Motorcycle Riding Area in Christian County, and Sutton Bluff ATV, UTV, and Motorcycle Riding Area in Reynolds County (near the Sutton Bluff Campground) are the only designated OHV trail systems on Mark Twain National Forest.! These trails were created under the Federal Lands Recreation Enhancement Act, which authorizes collection and retention of fees for specialized trail systems to improve maintenance and better serve the customers.! Anyone riding an ATV, UTV, motorcycle, or mountain bike on these trails is required to purchase and display a current Mark Twain National Forest annual ATV/UTV/motorcycle or mountain bike sticker or daily use tag. All ATVs and UTVs must be under 50 inches in width to use the trails.!The annual (season)!pass costs $45 and the daily use tag is $7 for ATVs and motorcycles.!For mountain biking, the season pass is $20 and the daily use tag is $3.! For information on obtaining permits,! visit www.fs.usda.gov/mtnf and go to Passes and Permits. The Mark Twain National Forest allows OHVs on open and numbered Forest Service Roads, in compliance with state and county laws.!Use the Mark Twain National Forest’s Motor Vehicle Use Maps (MVUMs) to ensure you are riding on designated routes.! Remember, these roads are also open to highway legal vehicles and visitors should share the road.!Please do your part to take care of the Forest by staying on the road and not riding cross country!! MVUMs can be viewed and downloaded at www.fs.usda.gov/goto/mtnf/map/mvum.! ! MVUMs can be accessed through the Avenza app as well, and used to track where you are in real-time on the map.! You may ride on these Forest Service roads in counties where ATV or UTV county permits are issued, providing you abide by Missouri State motor vehicle regulations (MSMVR). • Have the appropriate county permit. • Have a valid driver’s license. • Persons under 18 years of age must wear a motorcycle helmet on ATVs; and everyone must wear seatbelts on UTVs. • ATVs in Missouri must be registered with a state registration decal attached to the right front fork or frame.

• No operator of an ATV/UTV is allowed to carry passengers unless the vehicle was designed by the manufacturer to carry passengers. • ATVs and UTVs cannot be operated in streams or rivers, except at designated crossings. • Vehicles must have appropriate muffler system and a Forest Service approved spark arrester, a good operating brake system, a slow moving equipment emblem at least two feet above the roadway, a safety flag attached to the rear of the vehicle extending at least seven feet above the ground, lighted headlamp, lighted taillamp, and a roll bar (for UTVs). Law enforcement officers will be focused on enforcing these rules for rider safety, and stopping illegal offroad operation, especially in areas experiencing significant resource damage. The website also includes information on acquiring county permits for each county on the Forest.! The county sheriff is also a great place to get information about OHV regulations for a particular county (Cody Norris!is the public affairs officer for the U.S. Forest Service, Mark Twain National Forest.)


June 2019 • Page 7

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Webb Creek Park — best kept secret in camping

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By Christy Roberts ocated on scenic Clearwater Lake in the south-central part of Missouri, Webb Creek Park could be the “best little campground” in America. Owned and governed by the Corps of Engineers, it is hosted by Judy and Rick Mansfield from Ozark Adventures. Unlike most public campgrounds, firewood is delivered free to each campsite as needed and soap is supplied in the restrooms. But that’s just the beginning! Nestled into the hills on the “quiet side” of Clearwater Lake, it is one of the older campgrounds in the area. Hence the majestic trees and plentiful shade. Each family gets a copy of the book “Webb Creek Adventures” complete with camping tips, recipes, local tales and descriptions of local points of interest. At least twice each season, there’s “Camper Appreciation Day” with free food and entertainment. Old-fashioned “cake walks” complete with live music and free pastries are common. Every Saturday evening campers are treated to a storyteller. Invitation to gather ‘round a fire to listen to “Runt” Johnson speak of bull-walkers; or Bill “Bristleface” McDougal tell of his times as a traveling toy salesman and actually get to play with the 1950’s era toys that he peddled. Families enjoy “Bean Bag DoubleCan” and “Game of Graces”; little ones can practice with “Climbing Bear” and prepare for the eventuality they might someday need to milk a cow. Maybe C.W. Nichols, 1950’s river guide. Campers hear stories of when the guide did the work and all floaters did was hook and reel in “red eyes” and “bronze backs.” They’ll see a vintage wooden johnboat built in 1947; see a cubic-yard size zinclined cooler. In 2018, camp host and writer Rick Mansfield portrayed more than a dozen different characters throughout the five-month season. Activities Director Cynthia Dea does crafts with kids each Saturday and Sunday; as well as teaches such skills as Dead Reckoning and fire-building. Children make birdhouse gourds and assorted wind chimes. Bamboo is used

Kids making their free crafts — today gourd bird feeders!

for picture frames and placemats. Children take their projects and newfound skills home with them. There are scavenger hunts where children get to win prizes once their lists are completed. Those interested can get gloves and trash bags and while hiking or enjoying the lake, take advantage of Stream Team opportunities to get free T-shirts. Webb Creek is a great location to take advantage of several area offerings. Ride your bike or drive along the Historic Tour of Deer Run. On a fairly untraveled gravel road, see and climb the area’s first metal fire tower, circa 1926; rest at Buford Pond and explore some of the Tram Roads built turn of the 20th century as logging was in full swing via railroads. Quite possibly get a glimpse of some of the elk herd at a small roadside food plot; especially early morning. Elk were repatriated into the Missouri Ozarks in 2011 and around Ellington are the best viewing areas. Finish the day with an afternoon float on the Current River. Down in this area the river is much larger. Floating, especially on weekdays, is a much more leisurely adventure. Again, those getting in their kayaks

early have great opportunity to see elk and bald eagles. You can even catch some nice smallmouth bass in this stretch, especially at the Ant Hole shortly below the Hwy. 106 bridge. On the north side, east end of that very bridge, take the Ozark Trail. Breathtaking is the right word for the view from “the peak.” There are two fine viewing spots along the bluffs overlooking Owls Bend. Be sure and pack your binoculars, for the river-bottom fields are great places to again see the majestic elk. Come back this fall and listen for their bugling! A sound gone for more than a century-anda-half, but recently returned. Embrace the challenge of Rocky Creek by turning south on the Ozark Trail. No matter the season, wildlife and flora abound as you cross Rocky Creek and visit the “undershot” works and structure of Klepzig Mill. A classic example of “sawmill house” construction, the business was built by the son of a Prussian-German immigrant in 1928. With a rough cement spillway, the use of a hood hinge from an old Model A truck, and a corrugated iron roof it is a lasting testament to the ingenuity of the early Ozark settlers and the challenges they faced.

Wander another mile downstream and visit the Buzzard Mountain Shut-Ins. Explore rock structures more than a billion years old. Climb to the top of Stegal Mountain; take in the magnificence of Rocky Falls. Many maps are available online at www.ozarktrails.com as well as kept at the Webb Creek campground gatehouse. Accept the challenge of the Scour Trail near Johnson Shut-Ins back north off Hwy. 21. See how many geological layers you can identify where the 2005 dam breach cut through the side of Proffitt Mountain. Try and find the 500 million-year-old Paleozoic beach from where these were once islands surrounded by warm seas. For a respite from the weather, or just something different; check out the Reynolds County Museum. There are always a lot of historic artifacts from the area displaying what households, farms and businesses were like the century past; and right now a wonderful quilt collection is also on display. Please obey the 23 mph speed limit signs posted in town. Load your friends and family up and watch a movie at one of the few remaining drive-in theatres in the state. Live a piece of history before it’s gone. Catch an “oldie but a goodie” on Throwback Thursdays. The 21 Drive-In is just a few miles south of Ellington.

Bill “Bristleface” McDougal entertaining campers during story-time.

MTNF offers 3 free campgrounds & you can bring your horse

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By Becky Ewing work with the best people. They are very passionate about natural resources management and are serious about serving our Mark Twain National Forest neighbors and visitors. One of the newer Potosi Ranger Station employees is Patricia Winheim. She is from Missouri and had worked for the Natural Resources Conservation Service before joining the Forest Service. Patty is our environmental coordinator. She ensures all of our projects are compliant with the Mark Twain’s Land and Resources Management Plan and National Environmental Policy Act regulations. Patty is an avid horse rider. She and her husband raise horses and she has been riding for years. She provided the following information about horse trails on the Potosi-Fredericktown Ranger District. The Potosi-Fredericktown Ranger District offers many areas for horseback riding and three campgrounds for camping with horses. In a day and age where everything

Janice Beckett, Linda Coffman, Norman Sitzes, and Louise Enke on Mark Twain National Forest’s Audubon Trail in December 2018.

costs money, we offer these three campgrounds for you to camp with your horses free of charge. The three campgrounds where you can camp free of charge with your horses include Berryman Campground, Brazil Creek Trailhead, and Hazel Creek Campground. These three recreation sites connect with the 24-mile Berryman National

Recreation Trail and over 200 miles of Ozark Trail. If you decide overnight camping with your horses isn’t for you, you can still enjoy the Mark Twain National Forest by horseback riding for just a day-ride on the established trails, which include Bell Mountain Wilderness Trail, Crane Lake National Recreation Trail, John J. Audubon Trail, and Rock Pile Moun-

tain Wilderness Trail. Many equestrians enjoy the 12-mile circular loop John J. Audubon Trail in Ste. Genevieve County. The trail was established by the Boy Scouts of America as a memorial to the great naturalist and artist John J. Audubon, who visited the area often on his wide-ranging bird collecting trips. Plans are underway after new funding opportunities arose to support repairs and rerouting some of the Audubon Trail that was damaged in the significant rain events of 2017. Please stay tuned for those improvements to the Audubon Trail. For more information about the Mark Twain National Forest, or the Potosi/Fredericktown horse camping and riding opportunities in particular, you can look us up on the Internet at . The Potosi Ranger Station is open Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. You can reach us by calling (573) 438-5427. (Becky Ewing is the district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, Potosi-Fredericktown Ranger District. She can be reached by email at rewing@fs. fed.us.)


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RiverHillsTraveler.com

June 2019 • Page 9

RiverHillsTraveler.com

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Our communities & people are just as important as our natural treasures

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By Dana Sturgeon ight years ago on May 22, 2011, a major event in Missouri history happened in the town of Joplin. In the evening before 6 p.m., an EF-5 tornado struck right through the town of Joplin. It was an estimated 1 mile wide and went about 13 miles in length. The winds recorded were well over 200 mph. Over 7,500 homes were destroyed, not including businesses, or schools. Over 9,200 people were without homes. The Joplin Humane Society took in over 1,300 pets during that disaster. Over 500 of them were returned to their owners and the rest were adopted into new homes. The EF-5 tornado took 161 lives and injured over 1,000 that day. It will never be forgotten. We have many natural treasures in Missouri. We float rivers, fish in lakes, hunt in our forests, and enjoy hiking on trails. We also have amazing people in a lot of our communities.

Over 100,000 of these people from all walks of life came out to the Joplin community to volunteer to help clean up or whatever they could do to help. Even when a disaster like a flood, fire or a tornado comes against our Missouri communities, it brings something good out of that dark time. There is always a light in whatever dark tunnel we may face as an individual or a community. Our communities grow stronger. We band together and help build each other back up. Back in the early 2000’s, Joplin had an event known as the Festival of the Four States with a run added in 2003. Then for 2005-2009 it was renamed the Boomtown

Days. However, in 2011, just 12 days before the event took place, the unthinkable happened. An EF-5 tornado struck Joplin. They almost canceled the event, but then the organizers received hundreds of responses from the runners that had registered for the event. They wanted to know what they could do to help the city in its time of need. The organizer decided on a “Day of Service” that would replace the run. About 400 runners along with other volunteers came out to help the cleanup efforts. The organizers changed the name again in that year to the Joplin Memorial Run. It was renamed to honor the 161 lives that were lost that fateful day on May 22, 2011, and to raise funds to support the rebuilding effort.

Critter of the Month: Praying mantis • Species: Praying mantis (or praying mantid). • Scientific name: Insect order Mantodea. • Nicknames: None. • Claim to fame: Many people are familiar with these large insects that are known for their unique appearance and their predatory skills. Praying mantises are often considered to be beneficial because their hunting skills help control insect pests. Some people capture praying mantises, or collect their egg sacs, and put them in their gardens. • Species status: It’s presumed praying mantises are stable throughout much of their range. • First discovered: One of the earliest scientific descriptions of the praying mantis was written by the German painter and naturalist August Johann Rosel von Rosenhof. Many of the illustrations that accompanied his scientific descriptions of various species of insects, reptiles and amphibians are now

considered to be valued pieces of art. • Family matters: “Praying mantis” is the most common name for this insect, but praying mantid is more accurate. “Mantis” is the name of a specific genus of mantids – which is the collective name for the insects in the Mantodea order. (The use of the word mantis in an all-inclusive fashion probably stems from the fact that Mantis religiosa – the European mantis – is one of the most common mantid species.) There are approximately 1,800 mantid species in the world. The three most common mantids in Missouri – and in North America – are the European mantis, the Chinese mantis (Tenodera aridifolia sinensis) and the Carolina mantis (Stagmomantis carolina). The European mantis and Chinese mantis are not native to North America. • Length: The length of praying mantises vary from one centimenter to more than 17 centimeters. • Diet: Praying mantises are adept hunters

that feed on a variety of insects. Some of the larger mantids also occasionally capture reptiles and small birds. The two front legs, which are used for capturing and seizing prey, have sharp spines. These legs are folded in a praying position (hence the name) until prey comes close enough for the well-camouflaged insect to strike. Mantids may be seen moving along a leaf or twig in a slow, methodical fashion, but they can strike at speeds imperceptible to the naked eye. • Weight: Not available. • Distinguishing characteristics: Most people envision praying mantises as being green to lime-green in color, which are the colors of the commonly seen European and the Chinese mantids. In truth, mantids come in several colors. Mantids have triangular heads and large compound eyes. They have the flexibility to move their heads from side to side, much like

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Now, eight years later, this event still goes on to honor the lives that were lost and their memory. This year, the event took place on May 18. There was a “walk of silence” that took place on Friday night. My mom and I attended this year’s event for the 5K run/walk. As we walked down the street with the rolls of banners on each side of us that had the names of each person that was lost to the tornado, it was a humbling moment. So many lives lost, families affected, and the community as a whole. And many people coming together to help this community during that time and even after eight years later. Each Memorial Run has raised money for homes, schools, playgrounds, and this year the Joplin Humane Society in helping to rebuild this wonderful community of Joplin. The morning of the race, a Joplin fire engine ladder was raised high above the starting/finish line holding up the American flag. There was a prayer and 161 balloons were let

humans. Mantids hunt during the day, but they often fly at night. • Life span: Approximately one year. • Habitat: In Missouri, praying mantises are often found in areas of tall grasses, shrubs and other types of dense, close-to-theground vegetation. • Life cycle: Reproduction occurs during late summer. During mating, the female frequently eats the male’s head. The male body is equipped to complete the mating process, after which the female devours the rest of the male’s body. Eggs are laid in a pod called an ootheca. An ootheca can contain between 30 and 300 eggs. A female mantis can lay up to 22 oothecas during its mating period, depending on food availability. Oothecas are attached to a twig, stem or some other secluded location. The female dies approximately two weeks after egg-laying is completed and the eggs hatch the following spring. Often a young mantis’ first meal is a lesswary sibling. Young mantid nymphs undergo a series of molts until the process of mating and egg-laying is repeated in late summer. (source: MDC)

go into the air. I noticed two doves flying over after the balloons were cleared into the air. What a peaceful, humble moment. Mom and I started our 5K race (walk) at 6:45 a.m. It was an honor to be a part of this memorial event. This was my fourth time and mom’s first. We finished the race just under 52 minutes! Several thousand people raced that day in honor of the lives that were lost and those that survived. So, whether you are helping to clean up a stream, maintain a trail, volunteer at an important event like the Joplin Memorial Run or help to clean up after a natural disaster, we appreciate all you do for Missouri! Our natural treasures in Missouri are important, but just as important are our communities and the people that live in them! Thank you! (Dana Sturgeon lives in southern Missouri. She can be reached at mo_dana@hotmail. com.)


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Robber’s Cut Site of Jesse James train robbery

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By Dennis Bresnahan hen traveling around Missouri, I like to stop when I see a sign announcing “Historic Marker Ahead” and see what is there.! Usually it is just a sign or placard to read and maybe the remains of something from the past.!This used to annoy my now grown children when we went on vacation.! I can still hear them yelling out “No, not again” when I would pull over.!But now that I am retired, I can do what I want.! If you are traveling from Sedalia to Jefferson City on U.S. Highway 50, an interesting historic site you might want to stop and see is the site of Robber’s Cut at the Brownfield Roadside Park.! It is about 14 miles east of Sedalia and just east of the city of Otterville, Mo.!You have to get off of Highway 50 when you see the sign for Otterville and take Highway A.!This road is actually old Highway 50 and was bypassed when Highway 50 was rebuilt and straightened, avoiding most of the old small towns.! Because of this most travelers don’t know this site is here and never get to see it. Brownfield Roadside Park is on a high hill overlooking a railroad cut with the former

Missouri Pacific Railroad still there at the bottom of the cliff.!This is now the Union Pacific Railroad and Am-Trak runs here daily.!! It has been called Robber’s Cut ever since Jesse James and his gang robbed Missouri Pacific Train #4 in July 1876.!More than $20,000 and other valuables were taken.!The robbers then proceeded to Flat Creek one mile south of here where they divided the loot. At this park you can walk to the edge of the cliff and look down at the tracks and imagine how the James Gang might have pulled off the robbery.!As a train would pass, it would be fairly easy, although dangerous, to jump right on the top of the moving train. The park has a historic marker about the Jesse James event, a Blue Star Highway marker honoring our veterans, and several picnic tables with barbecue grills.! It is a small but very clean and well-maintained park. (Dennis Bresnahan can be reached at (314) 868-7297!or dennisbresnahan@ yahoo.com.)

RiverHillsTraveler.com

PROTECTING WILDLIFE

Fishing line left on the bank or in the water can entangle wildlife

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s fishing picks up with the warmer weather, the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) reminds anglers to properly discard used or broken off fishing line. Besides preventing unsightly litter, careful anglers will also be protecting wildlife. A recent case of a hawk entangled in fishing line is a reminder of why keeping old line out of Missouri’s waters is important. The hawk was spotted by a citizen entangled by fishing line snagged on a limb high in a tree on the bank of the Osage River at MDC’s Taberville Access, north of El Dorado Springs. The injured hawk could not be rescued and had to be euthanized. “This is a sad reminder that even a small strand of line, when used improperly, can cause a large impact on the health of the fish and wildlife in the area,” said Michael Allen, MDC fisheries management biologist. Monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing lines do not degrade readily. They can pose hazards long after they are left in the water. The line that entangled the hawk at the Taberville Access may have washed high into the tree during a flood, Allen said. Or the line may have originated from an errant cast and hang up, or perhaps a bird lifted it into the tree as nest material. Sometimes retrieving lost line after a snag is difficult. But whenever possible, old line should be retrieved and properly discarded in trash bins. Never change line and leave the old monofilament bankside. Fishing line disposal bins are available at many of the state’s boat ramps and popular fishing spots, and many cities — such as Neosho, in Newton County in southwest Missouri — have placed fishing line disposal bins in some of their parks. Missouri Stream Teams and conservation partners provide the bins. The line is recycled in a partnership with Berkeley Pure Fishing.

3 Thhings You Can Do to Help

Monarchs AND Pollina nators 1

Plant Natives

Native plants are a food source for monarch butterflies and other pollinators. Add the plants shown below to your landscape.

2

Keep it Bl B ooming

3

Get Involved

Keep something in bloom each season. Some species bloom all yearr,, others only in April and Mayy,, still others in July and August. Learn more at mdc.mo.gov v//monarch .

Protect native grasslands, provide nesting places, and become a wildliffe gardenerr.. TToo learn how, visit GrowNative e org Common milkweed

New Englan nd aster

Showy goldenrrod

Prairie blazing staar

Wild bergamot


June 2019 • Page 11

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Refrigerator, mattress & tires removed from river

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By Rick Mansfield here’s no better way to celebrate a sunny day than on one of the myriad of clear spring-fed streams we have here in the Ozarks. Recently I was with family and friends on the Lower Current River below Van Buren. The water had a bit of color and I did hook a couple of nice smallmouth about daylight. The real fun began about two hours later. In anticipation of an eventful day, word of a “target rich environment” had leaked out. More than two dozen people had already gathered at the bank when I returned from my first foray. Some old and dear friends; many strangers. At least at first. Before the day was over, these adventurers from Wisconsin would be like the extended family I had yet to meet. Kind of like the previously neglected offspring of those out-of-state cousins of which one had lost touch. Young Jessica Fry joined me and though I had previously, while alone, released my prey; now we were there “to fill the boat!” And fill the boat we did. Some of the

harvest required us both to get the “critters” in the boat. The first memorable catch was over five feet in length and weighed in at more than one-hundred pounds. Over the next hour-and-a-half, most of what we gathered was fairy small. Often could be weighed in ounces rather than pounds. Then, the leviathan! Lurking beneath a couple of crossed

logs, and its exterior very much the color of darkened sand and decaying leaves — it probably believed itself safe from our predation. There it made its mistake. I had gotten a brief glimpse earlier, but then was distracted by more easily harvested game. Still, much like Ahab’s nemesis, its presence haunted me. Though I had no gold doubloon to offer as reward, I shared my intent with my ONSR boatmate. Encouraged her in keeping a wary eye. Endured her mild look of disbelief as I described its sheer size and almost ghostlike ability to disappear back into its surroundings. Though her eyes were younger and more keen, much like the original Melville tale, it was I that actually made the sighting. It was then the battle began. It flipped; it rolled. It refused to be drug for any distance. Just as we believed it subdued, it would lash out. Fighting back with the resistance of what seemed like coiled springs; their torqued metal unwinding without warning. Finally, it was ours. In most part due

to the efforts of my young accomplice; for in truth there were times I had momentarily quit the battle to rest and regain my breath. Stretched across the bow of our modern-day Pequod, Jessica and I would return with its lifeless carcass triumphantly to shore. This captain did NOT go down with his ship; did not flail with dying arms as if calling for other fellow riverman to join in his demise. I did awake about three AM the following morning with horrific leg cramps and back spasms. We are still unsure of what the freshwater record is for a mattress. Not real positive if the refrigerator gathered earlier was even a keeper. It was recycled nonetheless. We are sure that this 3rd Annual ONSR/NPS Clean-Up was a great success. Again, tons of debris were removed from our streams and gravel bars. Park employees were joined by AmeriCorps workers from Wisconsin. Young Miss Tee and friends were a real honor to meet. (Rick Mansfield can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)

heading north. As luck would have it, I picked the week when a record number of sandhill cranes were present – over 600,000 birds were in the Central Platte River Valley between Chapman and Overton, Neb. I stopped in at the Crane Trust Nature and Visitor Center and learned that the cranes roost on the river at night and head out to nearby fields to forage for leftover grain, earthworms, and other invertebrates during the day. One can drive slowly along the county roads and watch the cranes feed

and dance. Road pull-offs are signed to encourage birdwatchers to use those areas to stop, watch and listen to the cranes. Interestingly, the cranes I saw that week were mostly headed to Siberia to nest and raise their young. Bird migration stories like that are amazing. In our neck of the woods, we have our own interesting migration stories. One of our favorite visitors is the ruby-throated hummingbird. According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, it spends the winter in Central America. Most get there by flying across the Gulf of Mexico. Some birds stay in North America along the Gulf Coast, parts of the southern Atlantic coast, and at the tip of Florida; these are usually birds from farther north. I noticed my first hummingbird on April 27, but they are usually in our area in early-mid April. World Migratory Bird Day in the Americas was recognized on May 11 and the theme for this year’s event was, “Protect Birds: Be the Solution to Plas-

tic Pollution.” Did you know that plastic poses a risk of both ingestion and entanglement to migratory birds, which can lead to illness, entrapment and serious injury? Scientists estimate that 80% of seabirds and shorebirds have ingested plastic. To celebrate World Migratory Bird Day 2019, even though it is a bit late, plan do a little bird watching and take the plastic pledge. Pledge examples include: • I pledge to say no to at least one single-use plastic item per week; • I pledge to pick up plastic pollution and dispose of it properly; or, • I pledge to recycle/dispose of any plastic item I use. Doing just one of these things can help our feathered friends that bring us so much enjoyment. (Becky Ewing is the district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, Potosi-Fredericktown Ranger District. She can be reached by email at rewing@ fs.fed.us.)

4. Camp stove All state and national campsites have a fire ring. A thick metal ring, usually with a grate for cooking, which was the focal point of the camp. A go-to tool for hot meals is a twoburner stove. You can use small one-gallon bottles or use an adapter to attach the stove to a five-gallon bottle. Even if you plan on cooking over the fire, still take the stove in case conditions change or you need to cook more than two things at once.

much better than sleeping on the ground. Why? It’s comfortable, and who doesn’t want that? Also, it makes it easier to get up off the ground when you are higher up.

Do some bird watching & take the plastic pledge

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By Becky Ewing recently traveled to Missouri Western State University in St. Joseph to visit with Dr. Cary Chevalier’s Renewable Resources Policy and Administration class. The students were exploring environmental laws and policies that address contemporary natural resource management issues at the state and national levels. To supplement their learning, Dr. Chevalier invites resource professionals from various agencies to meet with the students and discuss examples of real-life projects and how laws and policies figure into the planning and implementing of them. While up in the St. Joseph area, I took some personal time and drove over to Grand Island, Neb., to experience the annual sandhill crane migration. Each spring, the cranes migrate from the Gulf Coast area and stop along the Platte River to rest and feed before

Here are 7 crucial camping supplies for non-RV campers

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f you’re new to camping, here are some basic camping supplies you’ll need to take with you. Most of these are pretty average for any trip: tent (if you’re not in a trailer), sleeping bag, cooking tools, something to cook with and something comfortable to sit on. This list is based on experiences camping solo and with a group.

2. Sleeping bag Sleeping bags come in two basic formats: a mummy bag or a standard opening. The mummy bags tend to wrap around your head and just leave an opening for your face. Many folks like to take their own pillow when they camp, so in that case use the standard bag.

1. Tent If you have never camped, you may think a tent needs to be waterproof and have very thick, sturdy poles. The truth is, tents aren’t meant to be waterproof, they are designed to be breathable to release the condensation from your breathing and any other moisture. The poles might be very thick and flexible, but they are designed to be that way on purpose. For one or two people, a Coleman tent is the choice of many.!It fits a queen size inflatable air mattress and is tall enough for someone to stand up in.

3. Cookware If you plan to camp repeatedly, meaning every few months or even just annually, a good set of cookware for the long haul is a good investment. The cookware of choice for many is cast iron. It is durable, easy to clean, and cooks food well due to even heat distribution. Get some cast iron pans to cook on and a flat grill to toast things on, such as tortillas or bread. Carry a pot set that is multi-sized and uses a universal handle. All of these pots fit inside one another and in a carry bag.

5. Chair Camp chairs are a great luxury to have and come in all shapes and sizes. Some are loose canvas types, some are more rigid, some come with a very sturdy frame and a side table with a drink holder. 6. Air mattress An air mattress doesn’t take up much space when during transport, and it’s

7. Lighting You will find out which lanterns, flashlights, or headlights you prefer. If in a group, take two lanterns and a headlamp for yourself. You can spend over $100 on a single one, but there is no need to unless you want to illuminate a large area. The one factor to make sure of is that the face of the lamp can be adjusted up or down. This way you can aim the light exactly where you want to. It really comes down to getting outdoors for a night or a weekend and seeing what works for you. You could find that during the summer months in the Ozarks you don’t even need a sleeping bag – two blankets work just fine.


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RiverHillsTraveler.com

ONSR tourism creates $60 million for economy

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new National Park Service (NPS) report shows that 1.3 million visitors to Ozark National Scenic Riverways in 2018 spent $55.4 million in communities near the park. That spending supported 840 jobs in the local area and had a cumulative benefit to the local economy of $60 million. “Ozark National Scenic Riverways welcomes visitors from across the country and around the world,” said Superintendent Larry Johnson. “We are delighted to share the story of this place and the experiences it provides. “We also feature the park as a way to introduce our visitors to this part of the country and all that it offers. National park tourism is a significant driver in the national economy, returning $10 for every $1 invested in the National Park

Report shows visitor spending supports 840 jobs in local area

Service, and it’s a big factor in our local economy as well. Johnson said the ONSR appreciates the partnership and support of its neighbors and is glad to be able to give back by helping to sustain local communities. “After the devastating flood of 2017, visitor spending in local communities was noticeably lower than previous years,” he said. “In 2018, we saw an increase in park visitation and were happy to see local communities recovering economically from the flood.” ! ! !!

The peer-reviewed visitor spending analysis was conducted by economists Catherine Cullinane Thomas and Egan Cornachione of the U.S. Geological Survey, and Lynne Koontz of the National Park Service. The report shows $20.2 billion of direct spending by more than 318 million park visitors in communities within 60 miles of a national park. This spending supported 329,000 jobs nationally; 268,000 of those jobs are found in these gateway communities. The cumulative benefit to the U.S. econ-

omy was $40.1 billion.! Lodging expenses account for the largest share of visitor spending for national parks across the country, about $6.8 billion in 2018. Food expenses are the second largest spending area, as visitors spent $4 billion in restaurants and bars and another $1.4 billion at grocery and convenience stores in gateway communities nationwide. National park visitor spending on lodging supported more than 58,000 jobs and more than 61,000 jobs in restaurants nationwide. Visitor spending in the recreation industries supported more than 28,000 jobs and spending in retail supported more than 20,000 jobs across the country.

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June 2019 • Page 13

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MCC fines outdoorsmen, adds to conservation area

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he Missouri Conservation Commission met May 23 at Big Cedar Lodge in Ridgedale for its regular open meeting. The Commission: • Gave initial approval of recommendations for changes to the Wildlife Code regarding various permits. • Gave initial approval of changes to the Wildlife Code regarding chronic wasting disease and cervid carcass movement. • Approved changes to the Wildlife Code regarding rules pertaining to all portions of the 2019-2020 deer hunting season. • Approved the department’s fiscal year 2020 internal expenditure plan. • Approved the purchase of approximately 0.5 acres in Stoddard County as an addition to Duck Creek Conservation Area. • Approved a contract for the construction of the Southeast Regional Office Building addition project located in Cape Girardeau County. • Approved policy and procedural changes to MDC policy: tobacco free workplace. • Approved accepting the donation, in

part, and purchase, in part, of approximately 207 acres in Boone County as an addition to Three Creeks Conservation Area. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, or trapping privileges of 28 people for cause: - Thomas P. Adams, St. Charles, hunting, 1 year. - Ian J. Black, Manchester, hunting, 1 year. - Justin M. Branstetter, Rogersville, Hunting, 1 year. - Cody D. Brewer, Farmington, hunting & fishing, 1 year. - Ricky L. Carder, Mountain Grove, hunting, 1 year. - Austin T. Graeler, O’Fallon, all sports, 6 months. - James F. Gravil, Marble Hill, hunting, 3 years. - Dalton D. Greene, Oregon, hunting, 3 years. - Jeffrey A. Groves, Charleston, hunting, 3 years. - Larry D. Hayes, Willard, hunting, 1 year. - Thad M. Helton, St. Joseph, all sports, 1 year. - Kyle J. Hesse, Florissant, hunting, 1

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One of the longest-running festivals of its kind, Big Muddy features four indoor stages, more than 65 bands and 19 hours of musical performances.

Summer in Missouri is a feast for the senses he scent of barbecue and freshly baked bread, the sounds of bluegrass, jazz and blues, and the sight of fireworks lighting up the night sky — these are just a few of the experiences you’ll find during the warm summer months in Missouri. Music, history, food and fun await at dozens of festivals and events in every part of the state.

Central • The Ozark Cigar Box Guitar Music Festival began in 2017, but it’s already one of Missouri’s top blues festivals, according to the American Blues Scene. The family-friendly event features nationally-recognized musicians from different musical genres playing their handmade instruments. The festival is set for Aug. 3-4 in Warsaw at the Drake Harbor outdoor amphitheater overlooking Lake of the Ozarks. • The Missouri State Fair, Aug. 8-18 in Sedalia, has showcased the Show-Me State since 1901. Agriculture exhibits and competitions, grandstand concerts, carnival rides, and more attract several hundred thousand visitors each year. Northeast • A Hannibal tradition for more than 60 years, National Tom Sawyer Days, July 3-6, offers something for all ages and interests. Festivalgoers can participate in the National Fence Painting Contest, a frog-jump competition and the Tom & Becky Contest. Other attractions include a craft festival, mud volleyball tournament, horseshoe tournament, carnival rides, live music every night in the beer garden, and a spectacular fireworks display over the Mississippi River on the 4th of July. • Historic Laclede’s Landing in St. Louis is the backdrop for the Big Muddy Blues Festival on Labor Day weekend, Aug. 30-Sept. 1. This popular outdoor event draws thousands from around the country for an eclectic and rich celebration of the blues in St. Louis.

Southeast • The East Prairie Sweet Corn Festival boasts a week-long lineup of activities June 28-July 4. The premiere event is the Tour de Corn, a fully supported charity bike ride with varying distances for beginning to experienced riders. The night before the event, riders and visitors can enjoy the annual Main Street Party, complete with crawfish and barbecue, arts and crafts, games, entertainment, and the Husker 5K run. • Since 1953, the Sikeston Jaycee Bootheel Rodeo has been a summer staple in southern Missouri. Today, it is the premiere Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) competition in the region, bringing nearly 40,000 people to Sikeston annually for rodeo events and concerts. This year’s rodeo is set for Aug. 7-10. Southwest • Carthage welcomes more than 50,000 visitors the first weekend in August for Marian Days. Estimated to be the largest religious pilgrimage in North America, Marian Days brings Vietnamese Catholic families together to celebrate faith, fellowship, culture and the memory of their homeland across the Pacific. Hotels become hubs of activity, neighborhood lawns fill with campers, and residents enjoy the sights and sounds of the festival atmosphere. The event includes a variety of ceremonies, seminars and live entertainment. • The Ozark Empire Fair, July 25-Aug. 3, started in the early 1900s as a traveling display of area crafts and handwork in the city of Springfield. The primary objective was to promote manufacturing, agriculture and industry through exhibitions. Today, the annual fair — billed as summer’s biggest party — is one of the largest events in southwest Missouri.

year. - David A. Howell, Stockton (Ga.), hunting, 2 years. - Karl D. Kronk, Fulton, hunting, 3 years. - Jamie A. Lamkin, Poplar Bluff, hunting, 2 years. - Corbin J. McCarroll, Dora, hunting, 1 year. - Reams R. Ponting, Hale, fishing, 1 year. - Carmen M. Pritchard, Lake Ozark, hunting, 1 year. - Bruce A. Pulley, Bismarck, all sports, 1 year. - Michelle R. Redden, Caruthersville, hunting, 1 year. - Scott J. Rude, Festus, hunting, 1 year. - Anthony L. Skaggs, Newburg, hunting & fishing, 1 year. - Benjiman W. Smith, Poplar Bluff, hunting, 3 years. - David A. Spurlock, Urbana, hunting, 3 years. - Tyler M. Stewart, Versailles, hunting & fishing, 1 year. - Al F. Strickland, Florissant, hunting, 1 year.

- Kevin A. Walls, Steelville, hunting, 1 year. - Joshua C. Welker, Perryville, hunting & fishing, 1 year. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, or trapping privileges of two people to affirm actions previously taken by the Missouri court system: - Keaton H. Demoss, Martinsville, hunting, revoked until March 20, 2020. - Treigh M. Fehring, Bethany, hunting, revoked until March 20, 2020. • Suspended or revoked hunting privileges of two people who inflicted injury to another person while hunting and required completion of hunter-education training for both. • Suspended or revoked all hunting and fishing privileges of 168 people who are not in compliance with applicable child support laws. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, and trapping privileges of 222 people in accordance with the terms of the Interstate Wildlife Violator Compact. • Set the next regular meeting for June 27-28.


Page 14 • June 2019

RiverHillsTraveler.com

CALM from 1 “The quiet and solitude that you can!find on the Bourbeuse makes it my favorite river to float.” Due to Kolb’s teaching schedule, she explores the Bourbeuse mainly during the summer months. “My favorite time to float is in midsummer!in the middle of the week, when you can often get the river to yourself. Last summer I discovered the joys of solo kayaking, and having the river to myself for five hours turned out to be one of life’s greatest pleasures,” Kolb added. Less human activity makes the Bourbeuse a treasure when it comes to enjoying the beautiful wildlife that this region has to offer. “Because the Bourbeuse isn’t overcrowded, the wildlife spotting is incredible.! I can count on seeing deer, blue herons, green herons, groundhogs, beaver,!turtles, and multitudes of fish as I quietly float by,” Kolb said. Even though it could mean a little less solitude, Kolb was willing to share her favorite section of the river with River Hills Traveler readers. “I’m a big fan of Devil’s Back Floats in Leslie. I can easily park at their campground, and then be shuttled upriver to Peters Ford and then float seven miles back to the campground,” Kolb said. “This stretch of river is beautiful and secluded, and offers numerous sandbars and is rarely so shallow that you drag. Devil’s Back also rents out aluminum kayaks, which is a unique offering.” Leigh Kolb isn’t the only individual who shares a love for the Bourbeuse. Jake Johnson just graduated from Washington High School, and spends a lot of time on the Bourbeuse River thanks to the experiences he’s had growing up near his grandpa.

“My grandpa fished the Bourbeuse his whole life. He would always tell the story about when he went to check trotlines in his little johnboat and ended up with a huge catfish on the line,” Johnson said. “He said he wrestled it until it flipped him out of the boat. When he got it home, it was so big that the only place he could ice it down was in his bathtub. He claimed it was every bit of 90 pounds.” Thanks to Johnson’s grandpa, and the influence of a family friend, he has grown up with the confidence to run the river on his own. “Within the last several years I have made the Bourbeuse the centerpoint of my fishing. I try to put my boat in at least two weekends a month,” he said. “My favorite thing to do is set trotlines

SETO from 1 The site is helping visitors find lodging, dining, recreation, and local shops as well as other tourist-related information including visitor centers, museums, and parks. “The driving force here in our area smaller communities is the tourism, and recreation is the big thing people come to the Ozark foothills for,” said Halter. Halter also met with a few other towns to see if they would like to be added to the project as well. “We really want everyone in our Ozark foothills region to be apart of this and feed us information and pictures of what’s going on so we can help promote visitors to those places,” said Halter. Not only will the website be a hub to find information, Halter also has hopes of it being something visitors can leave information on as well. According to Halter, they really want the website to be interactive, where visitors can rate the point of interest. “People’s experiences of places or things going on is really helpful when people think of going or doing something, so we really want those testimonials,” said Halter. The Poplar Bluff Chamber of Commerce has done put up billboards, social media, and short videos with attractions around the area that have reached over a quarter-million people, Halter said, and has sent out brochures to welcome centers and attended trade shows over the years. “We have a committee here made up of people interested in tourism that do a lot for us and help us get information out

and fish for smallmouth bass. I also enjoy just floating down the river and taking in the great scenery.” Johnson, like his grandpa, now has some of his own fishing stories about the Bourbeuse, and highly recommends anglers give the river a try. “People don’t think that this river has good fishing potential and I have heard many people call it a dirty river. Personally, I think this river is one of the best in our area. The smallmouth bass are plentiful in most areas. I have never had a day where I did not catch a single bass on this river,” Johnson said. According to Johnson, floaters should visit the Bourbeuse in late spring to midJune for the best floating conditions. He also has a few ideas for good places to put in and take out. “A good floating route would be from

Meyers Landing to the Union Access by Dickey Bub. Although that would only be a 10-minute car ride, it would be a full day of adventure on the river.!The river needs to be up just a little to travel this route, but that’s how the river is. “If you wanted a multi-day stretch, I would recommend putting in at one of the more southern access points and then float to Rieker Ford.” If you are interested in experiencing the Bourbeuse, don’t expect an abundance of campgrounds or float companies. There is only one outfitter on the Bourbeuse that Kolb mentioned earlier, Devil’s Back Floats. They are located south of Beaufort off of Hwy 185. They even have a primitive campground. If you want more information about Devil’s Back Floats, visit their website at www.devilsbackfloats.com. I hope that your experiences on the Bourbeuse will be peaceful and restorative. If you run into Jake Johnson or Leigh Kolb on the river, make sure you wave, smile, and thank them for sharing their love of the Bourbeuse with you! (Michelle Turner lives in Union, Mo.)

AROUND the WORLD with the River Hills Traveler

there, but this website is really going to do wonders,” said Halter. The committee is made up of business owners and people from the park services that give input about the area’s tourism, but their plans don’t stop at the website. “It’s not over,” said Halter. “The website may be up, but ‘See The Ozarks’ will be an ongoing project with new content being added to the website on a regular basis. “The next step for us is to get feedback from the website so we can improve it, do more social media, create more and better videos, really push the new websites, and get other towns to buy in on this project.” The Chamber is offering a featured business option on the website where businesses pay to be at the top of their business category and the money raised will go right back into the tourism bureau. “We like to have sustainable programs, and by this we are able to help keep money going back into our project to do more advertising and more of everything we are working on,” said Halter. “We are very excited about everything we have going on and we hope that visitors and community members alike do as well.”

Caleb Jacobs and Rex Jacobs enjoying the weekend at Creekside Campground in Powell, Mo. They took a friend along with them. ——— If you're going on a trip or vacation, please take the River Hills Traveler with you and have someone photograph you and the magazine in front of a landmark or particular setting. Then email the picture to us at jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com and we will publish it an upcoming issue. You can also text your photos & info to (417) 451-3798 or send them to us via our Facebook page.

We look forward to seeing your family’s adventures!


June 2019 • Page 15

RiverHillsTraveler.com

WATERS from 1 County. Home of the Upper Current. Location of Akers Ferry — “Canoe Capital of the World.” But waters less visited. Pools where the ripples would be mine alone. Shoals of silence and solitude; streams where my thoughts would echo by themselves against limestone bluffs and beneath greening canopy. The first stretch was on beautiful Sinkin’ Creek. A spring blessed with significant rainfall had left this Current River tributary quite floatable. Though passing through sizable amounts of private property, clearly marked areas that must be respected; it is accessible to the public in a couple of places on county roads. One can launch off the bridges on county roads 19-258, off of Hwy. CC (it turns right off Hwy. A which turns east off Hwy. 19 approximately 25 miles south of Salem, 30 miles north of Eminence). I chose to launch off CR 19-252, approximately two miles further south directly off Hwy. 19. When these stretches are more easily floated, Carr’s Canoe Rental services the area and that is the venue I used. I floated a commercial-style kayak, complete with built-in backrest. Save for Robby Banks, the Carr’s employee (and old friend) who launched me, I saw no one for the first couple of hours of this sunny mid-week day. Finally drifted by a few campers sitting streamside as I meandered by Echo Bluff State Park. Spoke with a couple of fellow fishermen when on the short stretch of the Current I floated before taking out right above the Hwy. 19 bridge. There was nothing but my own laughter as I pulled some respectable smallmouth out of first the Rock Hole and then the Joe Hole; the latter named after one of the Thompson family that had settled the area shortly after the Civil War. My next “road not taken” was on the Barren Fork. A stream oddly named, for its cold spring-fed waters are abundant with life. Myriad species of aquatic vegetation and insects are present; sustaining the colorful darter fish as well as wild rainbow trout. Seeded from railroad cars as civilization moved west in the late 1800’s, these trout are the direct descendants of those fish placed into almost every small stream where it was thought they would survive. Here, below Twin Springs, they have. With help from our Missouri Department of Conservation who have built structures and enforced regulations (only one 18-inch fish per day; only artificial lures), this is one of only six

Barren Fork after Twin Springs enters.

instead of yards, and consisted of walking around a downed tree or two. Obstacles that also provided my only strikes on the wet nymphs I was using. At the Forks of the Creeks I was once

again on Sinkin’ Creek. Another purchase of land and an MDC area. With more time, I could have even replicated the earlier float. Instead, I had arranged to take out from private property a few miles further down. Wish now I had repeated the whole stretch. This day — no one! And this a fairly busy weekend on the larger streams just minutes away by highway. As previously, limestone bluffs provided a geological journey through time for anyone interested. Caves with signs of “critters” and wooded bottoms complete with bird-sound and the occasional chattering of squirrels. Two true Ozark gems. We have the Current, the Jack’s Fork. and Eleven Point and many other larger streams for those “another days.” When opportunity is there, seek out these and other “small waters.” I can almost guarantee “big fun!” (Rick Mansfield is a storyteller and writer, and is always looking for new audiences. He can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)

Fish, float, hunt & explore the Ozarks!

Sinkin’ Creek

Blue Ribbon streams in the state that still hold such descendants. Again, back to Hwy. A off of Hwy. 19 in northern Shannon County; one simply drives to the Twin Springs Conservation Area (look for the Chrisco Cemetery sign) and puts in. Even with this wet spring, be prepared to do some wading while pulling your kayak behind. This time I had a sit-on-top fishing model borrowed from a friend; better to protect and carry my fly rods. Due to some significant flooding in the past couple of years, there were several areas I portaged around. Very brief and certainly worth the effort for the flora and fauna that was mine alone to enjoy. Usually these were measured in feet

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