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JACQUEMUS
Adobe Indesign Lucca Simone Oldenburg BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 5, 2019-20 5FAMK003C Visual and video techniques CWK1 Nicolas Godon 2706 Word count: (
P. 6 RESEARCH P. 18 EDITORIAL P. 34 LOOKBOOK P. 44 WEBSITE 4
INDEX
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RESEARCH
CORPORATE PROFILE Simon Porte Jacquemus who was born in Salon-de-Provence in France in 1990 is a self-thought designer and owner of the French label Jacquemus. Simon started the brand in 2009 when he was 19 years old, one year after his mother died in a car accident. For that reason, the brand is called Jacquemus, the labels name is an ode to his mother. Jacquemus started his brand while he was studying at the fashion school in Paris, he dropped out soon after the dead of his mother and continued for his own. To be able to pay for the start of his own business he worked for the brand Comme Des Garcons in a boutique in Paris. The brand has a history and it tells a story; people do not only wear his garments, but they live it. Right now, the brand goes
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for one of world’s most popular brand in the high fashion industry and his shows are taking over the media. It is mostly focussed on women, women who are powerful and sensitive, mostly like his mother. The garments of Jacquemus are recognized for its natural appearance and simplicity, because Simon started the brand without being able to afford the costs for fabrics and extensive designs, later this has always remained the character of the brand. Jacquemus has an online shop and sells with retailers, it does not have its own physical stores, instead of that the brand made itself extremely strong online by social media platforms like Instagram.
MARKET POSITION Jacquemus is a player in the high fashion scene, especially under the young audience he is a leader in the industry. Jacquemus competes with giant brands as Saint Laurent, Prada and Balenciaga, although Jacquemus differs in multiple strategies in the market. While the main competitors charges high prices, Jacquemus has another price position which is much lower, this is what makes Jacquemus distinct most from his competition and makes the brand more accessible and affordable for the younger audience. Also has the brand a larger accessories collection which consist of almost half of the collections. A uniqueness characteristic of Jacquemus which fits very well with the brands purposes is his use of Instagram to reach its customers. Jacquemus is at the moment one of world’s most influential brands, while it creates stories with a real-life and nostalgic feeling for his 3 million
followers does this makes the consumers feeling closer to the brand. Another deviation of the brand are his specific fabrics used for the designed garments, most of the fabrics are natural cotton, linen and viscose where the competitors are using more other fabrics. To mention that Jacquemus is not a sustainable brand despite the natural fibres, this is pure to create a fabric – and colour palette with a comprehensive and detailed natural appearance. The sizes of the garments are more extensive than most other brands, the sizes vary from 32 till 44. Through the years the brand has gained a higher place in the market through its use of size inclusivity and racial diversity in his models’ choices, especially the young, modern audience reacted really good on this and it gave the brand a highly modern ethic.
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CURRENTS SITUATION Jacquemus’ situation reached a point where the contact with his consumers is very close, the stories of the brand has built a lifestyle shown through imagines with lots of emotion in it. These stories vary from different angels but will always express happiness, which is the main purpose of Simone Jacquemus, who quoted “It’s not so much about fashion, it’s about the lifestyle”. It is very clear that the point of view from Jacquemus self is very much on storytelling by the use of photography, this seems even more important than the
designs self, it makes the brand very unique with an increasingly high level of attached emotion. The purpose of the brand is mainly focussed on its imaginary and feeling, it consists of bringing the viewers on a trip to the south of France, even his fashion shows are located there in the middle of nature fields. It has a high proportion of romance and nostalgia combined with nature. While everything moves fast in the fashion industry the audience of Jacquemus is waiting on a new story and a new message.
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COMMUNICATION BACKGROUND The main communication of Jacquemus, which also differs him with competitors, is Instagram, with an amount of 3 million followers has the brand a leader influencing roll on the social media platform. On his Instagram he shows parts of his personal life, himself and the inspiration that he gets for his designs. Also, does he shows the collections and parts of the fashion films he makes. Simon Jacquemus brought out a book with photographs in it all made with his phone and camera since
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he was 9 years old, the book called Images and was a great success to increase the brand awareness. His fashion films are made by Jacquemus himself, before he discovered fashion his big passion was to work in the film-industry. He makes his own films inspired by films in the 60s, 70s and 80s. He also makes his own ad-campaigns with famous models, one example of this was ‘La Bomba’ which was a great success.
THE MESSAGE ‘She lives her life’ is going to be the message of the new brands campaign, with a strong reach to the young women. This campaign is going to have a focus on the female audience of Jacquemus, there will be shown feminism and women empowerment, which pares perfectly with the women who wear Jacquemus’ designs, a mostly female audience with a strong willingness and independency. It is a combined coherence of the French movie ‘Vivre Sa Vie’ and the modern world of the now. ‘Vivre Sa Vie’ is a movie
about a young French woman that leaves her family and chooses for independency, she takes the road to her own goals. The inspiration comes from Simon Jacquemus who is obsessed with France, French movies and French culture, only was this movie never used before in his ideas, so this is going to be a whole new ‘story’ a new ‘reach’. The idea comes from the purpose to talk to the modern female audience and connect it with the inspiration and vibes of the brand.s.
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INSPIRATION
The inspiration would come from the French culture, while Jacquemus is a French brand with a very French aesthetic and vibe, is this a very important inspiration point to stick on to. Other inspiration will come from the 60’s, French movies directed by Godard and France itself. The inspiration is a glance on Simons inspiration he uses for the brand, but the inspiration will also come a lot from his audience self, think of the modern young women, the opinions and leaders of now, and the discussion that are going on in the world, but everything in of the eye of the young ones. The brand reflects to happiness and joy in life, so the sto-
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NOT TO DO
Very important with this new storytelling approach for the brand is to keep it in the style of Jacquemus. It is not for no reason that Simon chooses to place storytelling over the clothing themself, this has to stay like this. If the designs would come out too much with the purpose to sell them, the brand can come over too commercial and trendy, this is everything what Jacquemus tries not to be. It cannot go out of the natural - and down-toearth vibe that the brand carries at the moment. If there would be the mistake that Jacquemus will turn its way of commerce where the focus will be more on its garments, then it can start to attract other customers as what the brand wants. This is why
EDITORIAL
The editorial will be a selection of photographs shoot by Pierre-Ange Carlotti. The inspiration for this editorial comes from movie Vivre Sa Vie directed by Jean-Luc Godard which also is an important inspiration source for Jacquemus. Two models will be chosen to pose in a farm while wearing Jacquemus’ dresses and dirty boots under it. The message of the editorial will transmit women that choose their own pad in life by showing a questionable contrast between femininity and male dominated work, women that can radiate their femineity without reaching out to men. The reason to transmit the message in this way is because of the division of gender in many important sectors and discussions. Jacquemus talks with this editorial to a young, modern and female audience with a strong willingness in life, which also covers a large group of the brands target audience.
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STYLIST The in New York based Celia Azoulay is going to be the stylist of this editorial for Jacquemus. I choose her because of her work that brings up femininity and a kind of sexiness without that it looks cheap. She is an artist in dressing women with strong characters and independent appearances, she shapes these women with her styles. I wanted a stylist that could bring out the female shapes in the models in an out standard way, this will give the most contrast between the farm and the models which is the aim of the editorial. I belief that Azoulay will understand our idea perfectly and will be able to adapt the message we choose for this editorial with her power of styling.
Celia
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MODELS Ashley
Emily
Emily Ratajkowski and Ashley Grahams are going to be the models for this editorial of Jacquemus. Emily Ratajkowski is a 29-year-old model which is in the top of most followed women at this moment. Beside her many times of booking by high fashion brands, does she have very strong political opinions of which she is not afraid to say them out loud. Her feminism and fame are a perfect fit for this campaign, I wanted someone already famous to make a statement and with her background and position in the fashion world, it will make the message of the campaign stronger. Her opinion is that all women in the world should do whatever they want, her political statements about this are a great ad for Jacquemus’ message. Second model Ashley Grahams is a plus size model of 33 years old. She is one of the most booked plus size models and a feminism statement. Her great curves, attitude and strong willingness will let this campaign come over stronger. She has a powerful lead in the feminism and women empowerment discussions where she is also an example for many women. The decision to take two feminist women is because I wanted to make this campaign powerful and direct, people that will look at these posing models in a farm could understand easy the message that Jacquemus is trying to show.
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MAKE-UP
and
HAIR
Diana Kendal is going to be the make-up and hair artist for this campaign. I did not want the focus to be on the make-up and hair but more on the silhouette of the models and the dresses. This is the reason why we choose Diana Kendal, she is an artist who can bring back the contour of the 60s, she can apply a natural look which at the same time looks very pronounced.
PREP The photoshoot is located on a farm in France in a village called SaintAu bi n - Châ t eau - N euf. The shoot will be spread out over two days, each day it starts at 12 in the afternoon and will take till 5. The models have to be on the set at 9 for the hair – and makeup preparation. De rest of the crew is expected to be on set at 10 to instal equipment. Also will there be a catering and permissions for location will be signed at least one month before the shoot.
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TIME There will be 4 shoots per day, and 8 shoots in total. Each shoot gets a time limit of one hour, so there will be one hour in total for in case one shoot takes longer. The dressers and artists will assist the whole shoot to change the looks and the make-up after every shoot. At 5 the models can go home, and the crew will clean the equipment. Choosing and editing the pictures will be done in the 2 weeks after the photoshoot.
DIRECTION The shoot will be directed by the team of Jacquemus and photographer Pierre-Ange Carlotti will choose together with Simon Jacquemus the selection of edited pictures which are going to be used for the editorial.
IN HER
OWN
IMAGE
E
LOOKBOOK
VISION The aim for this lookbook is to show nothing else but the garments self in a clear way. Jacquemus is a brand that normally goes more about the story then the clothing, but this time I change the rolls and put the beautiful designs in the spotlight. The main reason is to not overlook the designs with the stories, at the end the consumers buy next to a lifestyle also the garments where they want to be seen in and where they fall in love with. As you see, there no models used for this lookbook, but mannequins instead. This project is all about women and the ‘use’ of them in fashion, women are often seen as beautiful dolls that are good in selling themselves
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instead of a brand. Jacquemus wants to go against these opinions, discussions and thinking’s. For Jacquemus it is time to stand for the modern women. Not using models is a statement in this lookbook, besides is it immediately the opportunity to show the garments in a perfectly communicated way. This is a professional lookbook which is meant for buyers, there will be informatio for buyers, there will be information with it, and they will be able to take a physical lookbook with them. In the physical lookbook there will be swatches included from the fibres so the garments will be visualized as realistic as possible.
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COAT: CY-27386 TROUSER: FW-27865 BAG: JY-672839
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COAT: IK-98283 BAG: HG-327827
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COAT: JH-92887 BAG: LL-02928
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TOP: GH-87366 TROUSER: HV-823723 BAG: ST-82728
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COAT: SC-98837
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COAT: EU-27373 BAG: BY-2378237
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WEBSITE
https://jacquemus851396613.wordpress.com/blog/
The website a place where Jacquemus’ consumers can get all the content of the brand. The fans of the brand are here able to see what the brand really is about, they can see in one sight how the aesthetic of the brand is and how it feels like to be part of Jacquemus’ lifestyle. I used very basic and natural tones that combines the persona of the brand, the natural fibres of the garments and the colours are the same as the appearance of the website. The home page of the website is a page where you can have multiple options, also can you find here the women and men collection, if you scroll down you find articles, collections, photos and news about the brand. The website has one page with ‘articles’, because Jacquemus is so much more than just garments, it seemed like a great idea to add articles about everything behind the brand, lifestyle stories, inspirations, videos and opinions. Simon wrote in the about page about himself and how he started the brand, everybody who knows Jacquemus, knows Simon. He is a very clear face behind the brand, and this has a purpose. Simon want people to know him as they know the brand, this is his way of communication. Also is it very easy to find all the information you need on the website, like customer service and question fields. The visual aspect of the website gives a great overview, the pictures are catching immediately the attention, I wanted to create a website which clearly shows Jacquemus aesthetic, and this was the best way to do this.
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Naive Magazine. 2020. Jacquemus: The Key To Success. [online] Available at: <http://www.naivemagazine.eu/2020/04/13/jacquemus-the-key-to-success/> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Office Magazine. 2020. Emily Ratajkowski Gets Radical. [online] Available at: <http://officemagazine.net/emily-ratajkowski-gets-radical> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Parsonshereandnow.com. 2020. [online] Available at: <https://parsonshereandnow. com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Charles-Royle-Project-Book_compressed.pdf> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Retviews. 2020. Jacquemus: How The Fashion House Out Shadows The Luxury Industry. [online] Available at: <https://retviews.com/blog/focus/jacquemus-brand-analysis/> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. The Business of Fashion. 2020. Simon Porte Jacquemus Is Part Of The Bof 500. [online] Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/simon-porte-jacquemus> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Trousers - JACQUEMUS | Official website. 2020. Trousers - JACQUEMUS | Official Website. [online] Available at: <https://www.jacquemus.com/shop/women/ trousers> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Vogue Business. 2020. Data Analysis Shows Jacquemus As Fashion’S Top Breakout Brand. [online] Available at: <https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/data-analysis-breakout-brands-jacquemus-marine-serre-bode> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Vogue Paris. 2020. La Piscine By Jacquemus. [online] Available at: <https://www. vogue.fr/fashion-videos/fashion-story/videos/la-piscine-by-jacquemus/6955> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Vogue. 2020. Marni Resort 2021 Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2021/marni/slideshow/collection#3> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Youtube.com. 2020. Youtube. [online] Available at: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVwwbn3Xri0> [Accessed 15 December 2020]. Yotka, S., 2020. “It’S Not So Much About Fashion; It’S About The Lifestyle”—Simon Porte Jacquemus Debuts A New Photobook. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https:// www.vogue.com/article/jacquemus-images-photobook> [Accessed 15 December 2020].
JACQUEMUS