LEVEL THREE PROPOSAL FASH20032 by Lucy Leech

LEVEL THREE P RO P O S A L LUCINDA LEECH N0572209 FASH20032

CONTENTS PREFACE

CARTOGRAMS

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

IDEA ONE

HUMAN IMPACT 11 PERCEPTUAL MAP 12 CONSUMER PROFILE 15 MILLENIAL RESEARCH 17 CONCLUSION 19

IDEA TWO

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

CONTROVERSY 23 UNTAPPED AREAS OF INFLUENCE 24 CONSUMER PROFILE 29 THE NEW CONSUMER 31 THE BIG IDEA 35 CONCLUSION 37 ILLUSTRATIONS 38 REFERENCES

BIBLIOGRAPHY 40

APPENDIX RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT

LEVEL THREE PROPOSAL

EXECUTION STYLING PUBLISHING VISUAL MERCHANDISER CREATIVE CONCEPT ART DIRECTION GRAPHIC DESIGN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY THE BIG IDEA EDITOR JOURNALISM FASHION DESIGNER CONTEXT BUYING MARKET RESEARCH TREND FORECASTING

FCPTRIANGLE 04

LEVEL THREE PROPOSAL

P R E F A C E In reflecting on all aspects of my university education since September 2014 I now recognise my strengths and weaknesses regarding the skills that need further developing. Importantly, I have identified specific areas for actions needed for successfully completing the Fashion Communication and Promotion course. Through producing sketchbooks with an intention and desire to be consistently creative I have been able to develop a visual aesthetic through extensive research and experimenting. This aesthetic has been developed alongside a love for colour and an eye for detail that has resulted in positive feedback from relevant sources in recent years. I have particularly enjoyed course projects such as the Identity Zine Project, Street Style and general research. This has led me to developing creative concepts towards briefs such as the Fashion Film, Trend Project and Self Promotion. Although I am not yet certain of the area of fashion industry I wish to enter, the course aspects I have enjoyed would suggest that a career within the creative concept is where my skills are best suited. Types of employment that have particular appeal are within the field of graphic design and publications. In order to ensure my skills have high potential for life beyond university I must continue to work on areas for improvement, to include actively testing out and having confidence to positively develop my ideas. In addition, I must work at skills already learnt on Adobe software including InDesign, Photoshop, Premier Pro and Illustrator.

LEVEL THREE PROPOSAL

C A RTO G R A M S In order to choose topics for potential development into level three, I chose to look into existing topics of my interest. In a broader spectrum, these interests include environmental issues and sustainability, social media and technology, travel, mental health, sociology and the fashion industry in general.

IDEA ONE Fig. 1 Sun Protection Cartogram 2016

After extensive research into these topics it was interesting to discover information about the impact of sun protection ingredients not only on human health but also on the environment with ‘up to 10% of the world’s coral reefs could be threatened by sunscreen-induced coral bleaching’ (Environmental Health Perspectives journal, 2008). From this information, I decided produce a cartogram based around the original information I had gathered linking other cultural trends that could be developed into a big idea. This included a look into trend patterns of millennials in regards to sustainability, travel, and wellbeing as well as extensive research into sun protection currently existing on the UK market.

LEVEL THREE PROPOSAL

IDEA TWO Fig. 2 Fashion Industry Cartogram 2016

The second cartogram stemmed from an increasing interest in the controversy and influence of fashion marketing. It is no secret that the industry contributes to issues such as racism, animal cruelty, global warming, eating disorders and slave labour. As a society, ever-increasing freedom of speech is paving the way for equality and fairness in all walks of life, including fashion. My research sparked a question that if consumers are becoming aware of the threats imposed and immune to the effects of fashion marketing as it stands, where is the industry heading and what does this mean for the future of brands?

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION The research undertaken into the impact of sun protection stemmed from an influential YouTube travel vlogger Louis Cole, in a video published in May 2016, the wellknown British filmmaker expressed concern for the lack of eco-friendly sun protection available whilst on a trip in Hawaii. This motivated me into looking into this subject matter further.

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

Fig. 3 Garnier Sun Protection 2016

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

E N V I RO N M E N TA L I M P A C T First, I looked into the environmental impact that had initially concerned me. It was not long before I discovered that an estimated 4,000 to 6,000 metric tons of sunscreen washes off swimmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bodies annually with the potential to cause damage to fragile ecosystems (Cousteau, 2012). According to a study published in the Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, Oxybenzone, a UV- filtering chemical compound found in 3,500 brands of sunscreen worldwide can be fatal to coral and damaging to adults in high concentrations. Corals are vital to ocean ecosystems. Although they cover only 0.1% of the ocean seabed, they are home to 25% of the species in the ocean. Coral reefs are often referred to as the rainforests of our seas and play as vital a role in this ecosystem (as outlined by The Guardian, 2015). I then discovered that the use of sun protection products are now banned in a few popular tourist destinations, for example, in marine Eco parks in Mexico, and in some semi-enclosed transitional systems (Xcaret 2007; Xel-ha 2007). This would suggest that concern is increasing regarding the impact of sun protection on the eco system. Therefore it is important that opportunities for changing this situation must be taken.

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

IMPACT ON H U M A N H E A L T H In conjunction with environmental issues, the research also led to a number of statistics and information suggesting that sunscreen can be as harmful to humans as it can be to eco systems. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG) approximately 75% of commercial sunscreens contain toxic chemicals that are linked to cancer and disrupt hormones. The EWG reviewed over 2000 sunscreens and over 257 brands and found more than 75% of the sunscreens contained toxic chemicals. MOST HARMFUL SUN SCREEN INGREDIENTS (With both eco and health consequences) • Oxybenzone • Octinoxate • Homosalate • Octisalate (Ethylhexyl Salicylate) • Octocrylene

Fig. 4 Boots Sun Protection 2016

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

Fig. 5 Perceptual Map 2016

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

PERCEPTUAL M A P It became clear that other sunscreens must exist as alternatives on the market. Whilst creating the cartogram I came across several sun protection alternatives online that promised â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;organicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; qualities although I often found that they contained the harmful chemicals.

The internet does allow consumers to purchase these products overseas however the brands are lesser known therefore less likely to be trusted and come with extensive delivery fees. The only British brand I was able to find that offered both easy accessibility and guaranteed eco-friendly and organic qualities was Green People.

Surprisingly, I also had difficulty finding a clear ingredient list of many well-known and trusted UK sunscreen brands online that meant that I had to locate the physical products in high street stores. Initially looking in established chain stores Boots and Superdrug I was unable to locate any products that offered sunscreen without the harmful chemicals previously listed.

However, the impression given from the Green People online platforms would suggest that the products are branded and marketed at an age group considerably older than my own. This led me to pin point a gap in the market for a sunscreen that would not only guarantee a combination of ecofriendly and organic qualities, but also be branded and marketed that would appeal to a millennial consumer.

I found that considerably more eco-friendly and organic sunscreens were available on the US market rather than on the UK market.

Fig. 6. Annie Burton 2016

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

CONSUMER P RO F I L E ANNIE BURTON 21 LIVES IN NOTTINGHAM, UK SECOND YEAR PRODUCT DESIGN STUDENT INTERESTS: TRAVEL, FASHION, HEALTH & FITNESS READS: ID, THE GUARDIAN ONLINE, SUITCASE MAGAZINE SHOP FOR SKINCARE: BOOTS TRUSTED BRANDS: AUSSIE, RIMMEL, MAC INFLUENCES: BILLY PORTER, CHARLIE XCX, LENA DUNHAM SOCIAL MEDIA: INSTAGRAM, SNAPCHAT, FACEBOOK

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

MILLENNIAL R E S E A R C H

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

Fig. 7. Barcelona 2014

Not only are millennials the most environmentally aware generation, they are also dominating the travel industry, with young travellers in 2012 spending £138 billion, 20 per cent of the total £692 billion spent on tourism worldwide (WYSE survey, 2013).

The millennials are also known as ‘the internet generation’ or the ‘iGen’ (Jean Twenge, 2006). It has been suggested that the millennials are at the forefront of change due to the extent of connectivity. Young and experienced environmental activist and Green Party candidate Tamsin Omond speaking in the Generation Z issue of iD magazine claims that change happens when people are told stories that “provoke and inspire” the generation and these stories can be told “from the other side of the planet” direct to their phones. Millennials are attuned and aware of issues in the world as there is more accessibility than ever before.

With these factors combined, it would suggest that there is a gap in the market for an eco-conscious, organic sun protection product, branded and marketed for a millennial consumer. In an interview with Annabel Burton (a 21-year-old well-travelled student) regarding a potential sun protection product, it became clear that Annabel would view herself as an Eco and health conscious consumer. Despite trusting and using Nivea Sun Invisible Protect Spray whilst travelling abroad and in the UK she was unaware of the harm that the product causes. The Nivea sun production spray contains the harmful ingredients Homosalate Octocrylene and Octisalate. After informing Annabel of the dangers of these chemicals, she was very enthusiastic to learn more about the concept of an Eco and marine friendly sun protection product.

A report carried out in 2013 by the Glass Packaging Institute (GPI) partnered with EcoFocus Worldwide Research discovered that over 80 percent of Millennials claimed that being eco-friendly improves their quality of life and three-fourths actively look for changes they can make in their lifestyle to be greener. The report also found that despite being a generation affected by the economic downturn in 2008 there are a number of people willing to substantially pay more for products if they are eco-friendly. 17

THE IMPACT OF SUN PROTECTION

CONCLUSION

Fig. 8. Protect Your Skin 2016

Over the summer I plan to continue my research into consumer behaviour patterns and habits of the millennials, this can be carried out through focus groups, questionnaires and one-on-one interviews that go into further detail. In order to focus on the creative concept aspect of the FCP triangle, I will undertake extensive research into the visual aesthetic of the potential product (s). This will be done by looking at trends and existing products on the market as well as using social media platforms familiar with the generation I have chosen to focus on. As millennials make up 51% of Instagram users (Mediakix, 2015) the platform is a useful insight into the buying habits and visual preferences of the generation.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY The second research topic of choice stemmed from an increasing interest in the controversy and influence of fashion marketing. A recent google search confirmed my curiosity and led me to question the future of consumer behaviour if society were to lose trust in messages that the industry currently preaches.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

Fig. 9. Google Search 2016

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

Fig. 10. Mercedez- Benz Fashion Week 2016

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

C O N T ROV E R S Y Despite increasing positivity and equality in the fashion industry, there is still a long way to go. In a recent Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week catwalk show, social media platforms projected anger and protest after Bella Hadid led a cast of all-white models to a Beyoncé’s formation- a black pride anthem. This controversy emerged after Fashion Spot’s seasonal report claimed that the models featured in spring/summer 16 shows in New York were still 71.6% with the corresponding ad campaigns presenting 78.2% white models. (iD, 2016) Racism is just one factor that consumers are increasingly aware of, since the emergence of the supermodel in the 90s, high fashion constantly reproduces the ideal body and beauty image, making it impossible to keep up. According to i-D, there are ‘6,000 new cases of bulimia and anorexia each year in the UK and advertisers use increasingly skinny models to promote their products. In the last decade, the weight of models has fallen from 8 per cent to 23 per cent below the average woman (Naomi Campbell, all five foot 11 inches of her, is believed to weight no more than seven stones) yet they are held up as "icons of contemporary beauty".’ Social media has given brands the power to impose these unrealistic ideals but also given consumers the power to comment and make their own opinions heard for the first time ever. Platforms such as Instagram and Twitter have enabled a backlash of unhappy consumers with the invention of hash tagging to raise awareness and protest.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

U N TA P P E D AREAS OF INFLUENCE

Fig 11. Gender Neutral Sign

A recent trend report on WGSN ‘Youth Tonic’ predicts there will be an ‘eclectic rebellion’ and ‘we will learn to embrace the random and the unfinished, reaching out to untapped areas of influence’. This is due to an ever increasing gen-blended and diverse society, it could be argued that the distinction of subcultures has become blurred and there is now a stronger sense of individuality than ever before. With age increasingly embraced as an attitude rather than a number and gender neutrality progressively encouraged as a norm it is easy to see why consumers are embracing the unusual and ‘reaching out to untapped areas of influence’ (WGSN, 2016).

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

SO WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR THE FASHION I N D U S T RY ? As consumers we are constantly exposed to a saturated advertising market, the ‘number of ads that adults are now exposed to across all five media platforms (TV, radio, Internet, newspapers and magazines) is about 360 per day; of these, only 150-155 are even noted, and far fewer make a strong enough impact to be recalled’ (Media Dynamics, 2014). It is not hard to believe that consumers are becoming immune to the messages that brands are constantly trying to project, on top of increasing distrust in aspects of the industry exposed and deemed as harmful.

Fig 12. Essena O’Neil 2015

Fig 13. Casey Neistat Beme 2015

As mentioned previously, consumers increasingly value branding that is honest and original. In the past year, this value has become relevant to the use of social media too. With ‘Instagram famous’ users such as Essena O’Neil ‘quitting social media’ in early 2016, attention was drawn to exposing the filtered and fake lives dictated by individuals online, arguably mirroring the stories that advertisers and marketers are trying to sell. Coinciding with this trend, innovative creators such as YouTube phenomenon Casey Neistat are recognising a gap in the market for the rise in consumer demanding honest and raw content. Beme is an app developed by Neistat who claims that “truth is so much more interesting than the fiction we’re used to” (NY times 2015). The social media app will only capture content through the camera by covering the phone screen, this forces the individual to live in the moment rather than through the screen of their iPhone.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

Fig 14. Viceland Unbranding 2016

Fig 15. Viceland Unbranding Moodboard 2016

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

In regards to this honest attitude and the marketing industry, WGSN predicts that ‘creative unbranding and no branding will increasingly appeal to overly targeted customers’. With certain brands such as Vice already leading the way. Earlier this year, Vice launched it’s TV channel Viceland with an unbranded marketing campaign, the branding was described by the design agency as “a translation of the VICE sensibility, it’s blunt and raw. An exposed structure, a functional language free of decoration, artifice and veneer” (Gretel, 2016).

Fig. 16. George Craig 2016

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

CONSUMER P RO F I L E GEORGE CRAIG 23 LIVES IN NOTTINGHAM, UK THIRD YEAR REAL ESTATE STUDENT INTERESTS: MUSIC, FASHION, DRINKING, POLITICS READS: ID, VICE NEWS, GAME OF THRONES SHOPS: URBAN OUTFITTERS, COW, ASOS INFLUENCES: KURT COBAIN, MAC DEMARCO, SHIA LEBOUF PERSONALITY TRAITS: OPEN MINDED, LAID BACK, POLITICALLY DRIVEN SOCIAL MEDIA: FACEBOOK, INSTAGRAM

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

THE NEW CONSUMER HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY The gen-blended consumer is one that has independent access to an educated awareness of the world around them, the consumer no longer falls for generic means of marketing.

Fig. 17. Diesel AW 2015

One brand already finding a way to reach the gen-blended consumer is Diesel. Led by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the AW 2015 campaign juxtaposes standard fashion campaigns with taglines next to the images such as ‘this is where we tell you what to wear’ and ‘blah blah blah’. (Fashion Gone Rogue, 2015) The well respected brand has managed to create an effective and memorable campaign, contributing to the brands overall image. The sarcastic and brutally honest approach to marketing successfully creates a relationship with the consumer that connects on a level that is rarely seen in the fashion industry. The brand is a step ahead in terms of recognising the gen-blended consumer and has had led the way in featuring unlikely models in their campaigns, including Winnie Harlow (who is known for her prominent form of the skin condition vitiligo).

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

Fig. 18. Yeezy Season 2 2015

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

A MULTITUDE OF ELEMENTS Another variation of fashion branding that deviates from the norm is the Yeezy collections, designed by Kanye West. West is notoriously controversial in the media, however he is undeniably innovative and creative. The season 2 collection featured gen-blended models, wearing neutral garments placed by their skin colour, despite describing the collection as “just a painting, just using clothing as a canvas of proportion and color”, (Phelps, 2015) West appeals to the gen-blended consumer through a subtle statement suggestive of skin colour within the fashion industry. Season 2 is described by writer Irem Ozekes as a “fashion collection that corrals a multitude of elements” (Dazed 2016). Fashion is no longer fashion, in order to stay relevant, designers must reach out to untapped areas of influence, there is a new desire for originality.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

D I S C O V E RY IS THE NEW EXCLUSIVITY THE BIG IDEA

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

With the rise of Gen Z, and with Gen X and Boomers living longer and younger than ever before, we will see a constant mix of eras blending in new ways, breaking rules and remixing categories and styles in confident new combinations (WGSN 2016). In order to connect with the consumer and stay relevant, existing brands must continue to innovate and new brands must consider the new ways of tapping in the desire for originality. With the intention of making the gen-blended consumers aware of these brands and changes, I intend to create a publication that serves as a guide to originality, that will feature educated and honest content in all aspects of the fashion industry. Unlike existing publications, the content will reflect the genblended consumer and embrace random and weird, it will explore beyond the content already accessible on social media, and serve as a beacon of influence and inspiration for the future of fashion. Consumers will be able to identify with positivity and change within the industry, and have access to ways that they can contribute towards the changes being made.

A NEW DESIRE FOR ORIGINALITY

CONCLUSION

Fig. 1. Ill Studio 2016

In order to guide this gen-blended consumer, over the summer I will carry out research into creating a publication, I must carry out extensive research into existing magazines and publications that could pose similarities to differ and take inspiration from. I will also carry out surveys and attempt to get in touch with the relevant industry professionals.

WORD COUNT : 3014

I L L U S T R AT I O N S Fig 1. Own Image, 2016. Sun Protection Cartogram. (Photograph) Fig 2. Own Image, 2016. Fashion Industry Catrogram. (Photograph) Fig 3. Own Image, 2016. Garnier Sun Protection. (Photograph) Fig 4. Own Image, 2016. Boots Sun Protection (Photograph) Fig 5. Own Image, 2016. Perceptual Map (Photoshop JPG) Fig 6. Own Image, 2016. Annie Burton (Photograph) Fig 7. Own Image, 2014. Barcelona (Photograph) Fig 8. Photographer Unknown (2016) Due to industry pressure FDA delays new Sunscreen labeling rules for 6 months. Available at: http://inhabitat.com/due-to-industry-pressure-fda-delays-new-sunscreen-labeling-rules-for-6-months/skd276277sdc/ (Accessed: 28 May 2016). Fig 9. Own Image, 2016. Google Search Screenshot (Photoshop JPG) Fig 10. Getty Images (2016) Misha Collection Resort 2017. Available at: http://uniquestyleplatform.com/blog/2016/05/19/australia-fashion-week-resort-2017/ (Accessed: 26 May 2016). Fig 11. Holmes Stamp & Sign (2016) Whichever gender neutral restroom sign. Available at: http://www.amazon.com/Whichever-Gender-Neutral-Restroom-Sign/dp/ B00J0DRRWC (Accessed: 25 May 2016). Fig 12. Instagram | Essena O’Neil (2015) How Essena O’Neill’s Instagram can help you... - ASOS likes. Available at: https://likes.asos.com/18420/essena-oneil-instagram-status-anxiety/ (Accessed: 26 May 2016). Fig 13. Casey Neistat | Youtube (2015) A YouTube star made an app that wants to be an even better version of Snapchat. Available at: http://uk.businessinsider.com/bemeapp-from-casey-neistat-2015-7?r=US&IR=T (Accessed: 27 May 2016). Fig 14. Gretel | Viceland (2016) Vice launches TV channel Viceland with an ‘unbranded’ identity. Available at: http://www.itsnicethat.com/news/viceland-identity-gretel-020316 (Accessed: 26 May 2016). Fig 15. Gretel | Viceland (2016) Vice launches TV channel Viceland with an ‘unbranded’ identity. Available at: http://www.itsnicethat.com/news/viceland-identity-gretel-020316 (Accessed: 26 May 2016). Fig 16. Own Image, 2016. George Craig (Photograph) Fig 17. Burnbridge, R. (2015) Diesel FW15. Available at: http://theimpression.com/ diesel-fall-2015-ad-campaign/diesel_fw15_instagram_layouts_7/ (Accessed: 27 May 2016). Fig 18. Freshness Magazine (2015) Yeezy Season 2. Available at: http://www.freshnessmag.com/2015/09/16/kanye-west-debuts-yeezy-season-2-at-nyfw/ (Accessed: 28 May 2016). Fig 19. Ill Studio | Channel 4 Random Acts (2016) Ill-studio’s short film plays with reflections and odd perspectives in Berlin. Available at: http://www.itsnicethat.com/ features/random-acts-ill-studio-mirrored-100516 (Accessed: 27 May 2016).

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Medakix (2015) Reaching Millennials through Instagram marketing. Available at: http://mediakix.com/2015/04/ reaching-millennial-consumers-through-instagram-contentcreators/ (Accessed: 29 May 2016). Media Dynamics, Inc (2014) Media usage and Ad exposure. Available at: http://www.mediadynamicsinc.com/index.cfm (Accessed: 28 May 2016). Ozekes, I. and Dazed (2016) Yeezy isn’t just about the clothes – and that’s OK. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/article/29759/1/yeezy-isn-t-really-about-the-clothesand-that-s-ok (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

Danovaro, R et al. (2008) ‘Sunscreens cause coral bleaching by promoting viral infections’, Environmental Health Perspectives, . doi: 10.1289/ehp.10966. Downs et al, C.A. (2015) ‘Toxicopathological effects of the Sunscreen UV filter, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3), on coral Planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental contamination in Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin islands’, Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, . doi: 10.1007/s00244-015-0227-7.

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EWG (2016) The Trouble With Oxybenzone and Other Sunscreen Chemicals. Available at: https://www.ewg.org/ sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/ (Accessed: 28 May 2016).

Schlueter, K. (2015) Casey Neistat’s Beme Is a Social App That Aims to Replace Illusions With Reality. Available at: http:// bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2015/07/17/the-debut-of-beme-asocial-app-that-aims-for-authenticity/?_r=0 (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

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WGSN (2016) The Vision S/S 18: Youth Tonic. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/?lang=en#/65891/page/1 (Accessed: 28 May 2016).

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Cousteau, J.-M. (2012) The truth about Sunscreens and coral reefs. Available at: http://divermag.com/the-truth-about-sunscreens-and-coral-reefs/ (Accessed: 28 May 2016). Danovaro, R et al. (2008) ‘Sunscreens cause coral bleaching by promoting viral infections’, Environmental Health Perspectives, . doi: 10.1289/ehp.10966.

Medakix (2015) Reaching Millennials through Instagram marketing. Available at: http://mediakix.com/2015/04/reaching-millennial-consumers-through-instagram-content-creators/ (Accessed: 29 May 2016).

Downs et al, C.A. (2015) ‘Toxicopathological effects of the Sunscreen UV filter, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3), on coral Planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental contamination in Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin islands’, Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, . doi: 10.1007/ s00244-015-0227-7.

Media Dynamics, Inc (2014) Media usage and Ad exposure. Available at: http://www.mediadynamicsinc.com/index.cfm (Accessed: 28 May 2016). O’Neil, E. (2016) Available at: http://essenaoneill.com/ (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

Dr Axe (2012) 75% of Sunscreens are toxic: What to do instead. Available at: http://draxe.com/75-of-sunscreens-are-toxicwhat-to-do-instead/ (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

Ozekes, I. and Dazed (2016) Yeezy isn’t just about the clothes – and that’s OK. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/article/29759/1/yeezy-isn-t-really-about-the-clothesand-that-s-ok (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

EWG (2016) The Trouble With Oxybenzone and Other Sunscreen Chemicals. Available at: https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/ report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/ (Accessed: 28 May 2016). Fashion Gone Rogue (2015) Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/gallery/diesel-gets-meta-for-fall-2015-campaign/ (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

Gladwell, M. (2006) Tipping point, the: How little things can make a big difference. Boston, MA: Back Bay Books/Little, Brown and Co.

Raymond, M. and Martin, R. (2010) The trend forecaster’s handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing.

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Schlueter, K. (2015) Casey Neistat’s Beme Is a Social App That Aims to Replace Illusions With Reality. Available at: http://bits. blogs.nytimes.com/2015/07/17/the-debut-of-beme-a-socialapp-that-aims-for-authenticity/?_r=0 (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

Green People (2016) Natural & organic beauty. Available at: https://www.greenpeople.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxTvbYegTl-Rj7Tuv9yekzl3rsRTCrUAzUggJXhBXGwcBoCJJXw_wcB (Accessed: 29 May 2016).

Than, K. (2010) Swimmers’ Sunscreen killing off coral. Available at: http://news.nationalgeographic.com/ news/2008/01/080129-sunscreen-coral.html (Accessed: 30 May 2016).

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A P P E N D I X R E S E A R C H METHODOLOGY RESEARCH METHODS

PURPOSE

STRENGTHS

INTERVIEWS

To gain a deeper insight into the individuals opinions and ideas asking more in-depth questions.

Participipant more likely to give valid answers if asked one on one as they would feel more comfortable than in a group.

Answers given are on representitive of one person. Answers given will be opinions not facts.

F O C U S G RO U P S

To gain a deeper insight into the individuals opinions and ideas in a group setting.

Ideas are able to develop through input from other participants, groups are often informal so particpants feel relaxed.

Participants may feel less comfortable than a one on one interview if in a group setting, answers may always be honest.

PUBLICATION RESEARCH

To compare and gain ideas and to see what is already on the market.

By looking at what already exists I will be able to be inspired and develop concepts for my own publication.

Publications I want to find may not always be accesable to me due to price and location over the summer break.

To gain a full understanding of what consumers will want in the near future/

Access to trend forecasting sites like WGSN give me insight before many other businesses are aware.

Trends predictions are not always correct, and not always relevant to my own particular goal.

T R E N D RESEARCH

WEAKNESSES

I N T E RV I E W TRANSCRIPT Interview with Annabel Burton Age: 21 Occupation: Product Design student at Nottingham Trent University Interview Format: Facebook Messenger Date: 24/05/2016 13:09 Lucy Leech Hi Annie, I’m currently doing research into sunscreen sold on the current UK market and am looking into developing a product. I was wondering if you could answer some of my questions? 13:52 Annie Burton Hi Lucy, of course i will answer some questions 13:53 Lucy Leech Okay cool! So, I know you went on a gap year before university, where did you go travelling? 13:55 Annie Burton Yes, i was really lucky and went travelling around South East Asia, I flew to Thailand, then went to Laos, Then on to Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, then back to Thailand. I also went to morocco and to France a few times 14:01 Lucy Leech Ah Okay, do you remember if you wore sunscreen? And if so, what brand did you use? 14:14 Annie Burton Yes i did, at first i used Nivea invisible protect suncream, which is what i would always choose, Then later in the holiday i used Banana Boat tanning oil 14:16 Lucy Leech Okay cool, would you see yourself as an eco and health conscious and consumer? 14:18 Annie Burton Yes i am very health conscious, and would like to believe i am eco conscious but there is always room for improvement 14:18 Lucy Leech Were you aware that the majority of sunscreen brands sold in the UK and around the world contribute to damaging up to 10% of the world’s coral reefs? And I’m sure you are aware of the dangers of the sun but did that approximately 75% of commercial sunscreens contain toxic chemicals that are linked to cancer and disrupt hormones? 14:20 Annie Burton I was not aware of that at all, its very sad to think sunscreen is damaging coral reefs! I also was completely un aware of the toxic chemicals 14:21 Lucy Leech Would knowing this information sway you into finding a product that would be 100% organic and marine safe? 14:21 Annie Burton Yes of course! anything i could do to help and use less toxic and harsh chemicals 14:23 Lucy Leech Okay that's good to know! Thanks for the help, hope you don't mind if I ask you some questions in the future ! 14:25 Annie Burton No thats absolutely fine, Ive actually learnt something. Don't hesitate to ask in future

CONSENT F O R M S