(Flow Magazine, Flow Magazine Collection, 2020)
Critical Journal Fashion Writing: Editorial Fashion Marketing Lucy Anne Chappell C3526351
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Chapter 1
(Cosmopolitan, Cosmopolitan Magazine, 1967)
The first monthly fashion magazines were published in the 1700s in the UK (Whittaker, 2017). These magazines contained images of the latest fashion trends. Throughout time many popular magazines have been released since including Pulp magazine comics, as well as male magazines in the 1930s, leading to Playboy magazine being released in 1953. Whereas, women’s magazines in the 1960s displayed fashion trends and communitive ideas. In the 1980s lithographic printing was introduced, allowing increased production levels; profits gained from this production through advertising (Whittaker, 2017). Because of this the design revolution moved from 1920s politics to illustration, photography and physical formats in order to advertise new surrealism and contemporary themes, promoted by 1990s innovative slogans and graphics (Whittaker, 2017). In the 1990s the internet phenomena allowed worldwide distribution; globally this allowed activist publications to be released including Wired Business News which allowed consumers to keep up to date on what is happening globally (Whittaker, 2017). By 2011, magazine apps were introduced, as well as online publication being uploaded on to sites such as Flipboard and Pulse (Whittaker, 2017). LinkedIn is also popular due to its wide variety of online sources for consumers to use like personal magazines.
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The three markets of publications include: consumer, B2B and contract consumer magazines. Consumer magazines mostly consist of advertisements with limited details, general entertainment and specialist subjects; these magazines have a niche audience. On the other hand, business magazines have a limited audience but contain a wide amount of information (Holmes, 2007). B2B publications are aimed at specific professions, and include trade magazine which are controlled circulation titles. These types of publications are distributed directly; have a worldwide inexpensive circulation; have good journalistic standards; are trustworthy due to the lack of advertisements and include valuable expertise for industry (Holmes, 2007). Another form of business publication includes management and professional. These type of publications are released commercially and provide news and advice. Examples of these prints include medical advice for the NHS, updates for trade, industry sectors and contract publishing which includes custom magazines which are free, and are used for advertising companies such as Sky (Holmes, 2007). An example of a consumer magazine for female audiences include Cosmopolitan, this publication discusses fashion trends and celebrity news. A consumer magazine for male audiences includes Menshealth, this publication discusses fitness, nutrition, health, style, grooming, tech and weight loss (Kaiser, 2015). Another market publication includes B2B, with a publication aimed at this market being Property Week which discusses the latest property news, events, and valuations (Kaiser, 2015).
(Sky, Sky TV Guide Magazine, 2020)
The last market publication includes contract consumer magazines, a publication aimed at this market includes the Sky TV Guide, which shows the latest listings from 600+ channels, as well as daily recommendations (Kaiser, 2015).
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The Professional Publishers Association is responsible for magazines/professional media published, and was first brought out in 1913 for legal matters resolved through conferences and broadcast media. Through this runs the PPA Editors Code of Practice which ensures information published is accurate, follows privacy guidelines, includes no harassment, respect and ensures finance is not used for personal profit (Kaiser, 2015).
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Chapter 2 (Brockbank, Brockbank’s Cycle of Enquiry, 2016)
For this chapter I am going to using Brockbank’s 2016 cycle of enquiry. This cycle allows writers to constantly move forward through absorbing what they have done.
Action
This first stage of the cycle refers to the content created; how the publication is broken down. For my project I decided to do a sister title for Flow magazine. This publication has a target market of creative young to middle aged woman who “Enjoy making things by hand, practical philosophy, positive psychology, and living in the moment” (Flow, 2020, NP). The sister title will take the psychology elements of Flow magazine, but will be combined with how psychology affects the fashion industry, and how consumers of fashion can use it as a positive force, whilst still acknowledging how the fashion industry can influence us negatively. It will be targeted at young/ middle aged woman with an interest in both psychology/wellbeing and fashion as a topic. The publication itself is mainly graphic/illustration based. But in-between these graphics there are longer articles and list articles. Due to this my sister title will be broken into two longer pieces, and two shorter pieces of content. The longer pieces of content will include an interview with a clinical psychologist about the topic as a whole (Q&A), as well as an article informing readers about the harmful effects retouched images have on our mental health, including a brief ‘how to’ on how readers can feel better about their natural ‘untouched’ selves (Specialist Feature). The two shorter pieces of content will include a list article on the psychology of colours (Colour Piece). And then a more graphic based list on the 9xtiny pleasures of fashion/garments which will be illustrated (Colour Feature). According to Pape and Featherstone in 2005, an editorial structure consists of a PEG (reason to be printed) through a Interest, focus, purpose; angle; tone; Intro; who, what, when, where, why and how?; quotes; research; effective Endings (Pape and Featherstone, 2005). I will be adding these things to the structure of the features detailed above in order to create engaging content for my target audience.
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(Flow Magazine, Magazine, 2020)
Reflect The second stage of the cycle refers to reasons for choices made. From studying consumer insights I became interested in how consumer behavior influences/ and is influenced by the beauty/fashion industry; when I researched this by going to the shops (Colours May Vary and The Village in Leeds) and looking online, I saw a gap in the market. I then went on to research different consumer psychology magazines and found Flow magazine. The magazine itself is graphic based like some fashion publications, making it able to smoothly link into fashion. I broke down the content in the way I did due to it being both heavily graphic based and content based; with added wellbeing advice which is relevant to the Flow publication reader. This is due to them wanting to absorb positive wellbeing advice in order to improve themselves. The use of graphics/illustrations will also appeal to their creative nature.
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Action Critical Journal Magazine.indd 7
Critical Incident
Because I am a creative person I enjoyed the illustration/ graphic aspects, but because I struggle with using InDesign I found it difficult to set out the page furniture correctly and used Ambrose and Harris’s concept of the active and passive areas of design to improve. This is where “the human eye tends to start processing the information on a page from the top left corner, before moving to the right and then descending the page� (Ambrose et al, 2008, P22-23).
The change I had to take in order to improve Due to some page furniture looking too crowded I spread some text and graphics on to multiple spreads. This allowed the text to be read in smaller chunks, with more space for graphics. Before doing this I looked at InDesign guides online, took inspiration from Flow Magazine/similar magazine layouts, and also went on MyBeckett to rewatch InDesign tutorials.
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(Flow Magazine, Magazine Contents Page, 2020)
Contents Page Inspo
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(Chappell, Magazine Body Copy, 2020)
Body Copy Inspo (Chappell, Magazine Contents Page, 2020)
(Flow Magazine, Magazine Body Copy, 2020)
(Flow Magazine, Magazine Cover Page, 2020)
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(Chappell, Magazine Cover Page, 2020)
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Cover Page Inspo
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(Flow Magazine, Magazine Pull Quote, 2020)
(Flow Magazine, Magazine Image Layout, 2020)
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(Chappell, Magazine Pull Quote, 2020)
Pull Quote Inspo (Chappell, Magazine Image Layout, 2020)
Image Layout Inspo
(Flow Magazine, Magazine Standfirst, 2020)
(Chappell, Magazine Standfirst, 2020)
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Standfirst Inspo >>
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Page Furniture Inspo >>
(Flow Magazine, Magazine Page Furniture, 2020)
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(Chappell, Magazine Page Furniture, 2020)
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(Creativereview, Huck Magazine Spread Guide, 2013)
Chapter 3 Media Pack In order to first introduce the concept of the magazine a short PDF media pack will be used, Including an introduction, vision, audience, channels, distribution details and advertising rates. Alongside this information will be images in order to connect the desired target audience to the aesthetic of the publication. This media pack will have to be routinely updated for as long as the magazine is published. This will allow the publications brand to consistently be developed in order to meet existing/new reader’s. needs. (creativereview, 2016).
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(Chappell, Bus Stop Mock-Up, 2020) (Chappell, Instagram Mock-Up, 2020) Critical Journal Magazine.indd 12
Advertisements will be placed on social media (Facebook, Instagram etc.) and the Flow Magazine website (creativereview, 2016). This is due to there being “3.5 billion social media users – which equates to about 45% of the population”. Billboards will also be used to advertise to older audiences who may not be active on social media. (Emarsys, 2019, NP). Apart from being displayed on social media/the publications website. Monthly events will also be held for subscribers of the magazine, sponsored by mental health charities such as ‘Mind’ which will allow revenue to be brought in. Due to the target audiences interest in fashion and psychology, these events will include DIY clothing classes, as well as a safe space for people to talk about mental health issues; these events will help people to feel less alone. This is due to the issue of “Mental health and behavioural problems being the primary drivers of disability worldwide” (Mental Health Foundation, 2020, NP).
Advertising
(Flow Magazine, Flow Craft Fair, 2019)
As well as attracting new readers these media packs will allow the magazine to be presented to a number of mental health charities such as ‘Mind’ for advertising, this is due to the magazine having a strong relation to psychology and mental health.
(Solocraftfair, Solo Craft Fair in South London, 2020) 06/06/2020 22:30:18
Printing Once these arrangements have been made a test print will take place, this will allow room for any adjustments beforehand. This will be done using the site ‘Pressision Printing’. The publication will be based off the main publications style. The paper size will be full colour A4 portrait, with 46 pages with a 3mm spine width. Cover lamination will be soft touch, with the inside being a mix of both full colour 120 gsm uncoated and full colour 130 gsm silk paper. PUR binding will be used. For 200 copies this will cost ÂŁ450.74. These costs will be covered through purchases and commissioned advertising from independent fashion stores and mental health charities. This is due to the audience being niche and preferring to support independent businesses standing up for social issues (Pressision Printing, 2020).
(Pressision Printing, ME & EU Magazine, 2020)
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Distribution/subscription
(WHSmiths, WHSmith Store Front, 2020)
Charities and shops will be contacted in order to suggest stocking this publication. Stores and charities suitable include Mind, supermarkets such as ASDA/convenience stores, WHSmith, Cow Vintage, Blue Rinse and Mind. Monthly subscriptions will also be made available for ÂŁ10 a month. Allowing a steady rate of income for the publication, this will also allow loyal consumers and people receive access who may not have otherwise been able to (creativereview, 2016). (Wearecow, Cow Vintage Store Front, 2020)
(Mind, Mind Charity Store Front, 2020)
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Critical Journal Bibliography BuySellGraphic, 2020. Bus Shelter Billboard. [image] Available at: <https://www.bing.com/images/ search?view=detailV2&ccid=KMLTkLMY&id=5500C52DCA711C8F23B6A15CCCF18E2FBF0A1A21&thid=OIP. KMLTkLMYRh0d9gAOe1kczAAAAA&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fimages.all-free-download. com%2fimages%2fgraphiclarge%2fbus_shelter_billboards_blank_template_picture_165463. jpg&exph=600&expw=400&q=blank+bus+stop&simid=607987779097726009&selectedIndex=4&ajaxhist=0> [Accessed 28 April 2020]. Digital Printing. 2020. Pressision. [online] Available at: <https://www.precisionprinting.co.uk/> [Accessed 25 April 2020]. Flow Magazine, 2020. [online] (34). Available at: <https://www.flowmagazine.com/> [Accessed 29 April 2020]. Holmes, T., 2007. MAPPING THE MAGAZINE. 4th ed. [ebook] Taylor & Francis Online, pp.510-521. Available at: <https://www. tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14616700701411714?scroll=top&needAccess=true> [Accessed 20 April 2020]. Instagram.com. 2020. Flow Magazine (@Flow_Magazine) â&#x20AC;˘ Instagram Photos And Videos. [online] Available at: <https://www.instagram. com/flow_magazine/> [Accessed 1 May 2020]. Kaiser, S., 2012. Fashion And Cultural Studies. London: Berg. McKay, J., 2000. The Magazines Handbook. London & New York: Routledge. Mental Health Foundation. 2020. Mental Health Statistics: UK And Worldwide. [online] Available at: <https://www.mentalhealth.org.uk/ statistics/mental-health-statistics-uk-and-worldwide> [Accessed 27 April 2020]. Miller, D., 2016. How To Launch A Magazine - Creative Review. [online] Creative Review. Available at: <https://www.creativereview. co.uk/how-to-launch-a-magazine/> [Accessed 28 April 2020]. Mohsin, M., 2020. 10 Social Media Statistics You Need To Know In 2020 [Infographic]. [online] Oberlo. Available at: <https://www. oberlo.co.uk/blog/social-media-marketing-statistics> [Accessed 22 April 2020]. Pape, S. and Featherstone, S., 2005. Newspaper Journalism. [Place of publication not identified]: SAGE Publications Ltd. [Accessed 22 April 2020]. Solo Craft Fair - South London Craft Market. 2020. Solo Craft Fair - South London Craft Market. [online] Available at: <http://www. solocraftfair.com/> [Accessed 29 April 2020]. Whittaker, J., 2017. Magazine Production. 2nd ed. London: Routledge. Ambrose, G. and Harris, P., 2008. The Production Manual. Lausanne: AVA Academia. Cosmopolitan, 1967. Vintage Cosmopolitan Magazine. [image] Available at: <https://www.buzzfeed.com/jtes/14-vintage-cosmopolitancovers-from-the-helen-gu> [Accessed 1 June 2020]. Mind, 2020. Mind Charity Store Front. [image] Available at: <https://www.mind.org.uk/> [Accessed 1 June 2020]. Sky, 1988. Sky TV Magazine. [image] Available at: <https://www.sky.com/tv-guide/20200601/4101-1> [Accessed 1 June 2020]. Wearecow, 2020. COW Store Front. [image] Available at: <https://wearecow.com/> [Accessed 1 June 2020]. WHSmiths, 2020. Whsmiths Store Front. [image] Available at: <https://www.whsmith.co.uk/?&msclkid=dc3a6bfcd2d21c094df23528318e 6085&gclid=CN2x4Ne-4OkCFRv_GwodJXUE2g&gclsrc=ds> [Accessed 1 June 2020].
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Magazine Bibliography Fotios,L,2019.Girl wearing glasses. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 5 April 2020]. Fotios,L,2019.Girl holding a rose. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 5 April 2020]. Borodinova,V,2019.Girl standing. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 6 April 2020]. Fotios,L,2019.Leaf plant. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/leaf%20plant/>[Accessed 25 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Girl illustration. [image]. [Accessed 7 April 2020]. Fotios,L,2020.Girl with magazine. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 7 April 2020]. Callaghan,J.2020.Clothes displayed. [image]. [Accessed 7 April 2020]. Callaghan,J.2020.Clothes displayed. [image]. [Accessed 8 April 2020]. Natvidad,I,2018.Girl with magazine. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/photo/>[Accessed 8 April 2020]. Krivitskiy,A,2018.Body part. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/body/>[Accessed 8 April 2020]. Dushechkina,E,2017.Body part. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/body/>[Accessed 9 April 2020]. Sebastion,N,2016.Body part. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/body/>[Accessed 9 April 2020]. NEOSIAM,2020.Body part. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/body/>[Accessed 10 April 2020]. Gaudioso,J,2019.Red lipstick. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Red/>[Accessed 11 April 2020]. Abalos,S,2019.Orange plant. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Orange/>[Accessed 11 April 2020]. Abalos,S,2019.Yellow plant. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Yellow/>[Accessed 11 April 2020]. Ferguson,R,2019.Girl in mirror. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Pink/>[Accessed 11 April 2020]. Raw,M,2019.Leaf plant. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Green/>[Accessed 12 April 2020]. Raw,M,2018.Blue fashion photography. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Blue/>[Accessed 13 April 2020]. Tanndy,I,2017.Purple fashion photography. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Purple/>[Accessed 13 April 2020]. Rabago,S,2018.White fashion photography. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/White/>[Accessed 14 April 2020].
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Magazine Bibliography Snevtsova,L,2018.Black fashion photography. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Black/>[Accessed 14 April 2020]. CREATIVE HUSSAIN,2018.Brown fashion photography. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/Brown/>[Accessed 14 April 2020]. Dids,2019.Girl putting on makeup in the mirror. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/mirror%20fashion%20 photography/>[Accessed 14 April 2020]. Matos,T,2019.Broken glass. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/mirror%20fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 15 April 2020]. Kuzenkov,J,2020.Broken glass. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/mirror%20fashion%20photography/>[Accessed 15 April 2020]. Parulian,A,2018.Woman looking in the mirror blurred. [image] Available at: <https://www.pexels.com/search/mirror%20fashion%20 photography/>[Accessed 15 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Girl illustration. [image]. [Accessed 7 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Shoe illustration. [image]. [Accessed 7 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Charity shop illustration. [image]. [Accessed 7 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Price tag illustration. [image]. [Accessed 8 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Winter clothing illustration. [image]. [Accessed 8 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Clothing rack illustration. [image]. [Accessed 8 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Jumper illustration. [image]. [Accessed 9 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Group illustration. [image]. [Accessed 9 April 2020]. Chappell,L.2020.Denim shorts and jeans illustration. [image]. [Accessed 9 April 2020]. Brasileiro,R,2019.Woman holding flowers shadow. [image] Available at: < https://www.pexels.com/search/yellow%20shadow/>[Accessed 9 April 2020]. Mental Health Foundation. 2020. Mental Health Statistics: UK And Worldwide. [online] Available at: <https://www.mentalhealth.org.uk/ statistics/mental-health-statistics-uk-and-worldwide> [Accessed 10 April 2020]. Flow Magazine, 2020. [online] (34). Available at: <https://www.flowmagazine.com/> [Accessed 29 April 2020]. Lorch, D., 2017. THE EFFECT OF RETOUCHED MEDIA IMAGES ON BODY DISSATISFACTION. The University of Alabama at Birmingham. Rihlama, S., 1999. Colour World. Helsinki: Finnish Building Centre.
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