BETWIXT
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Words From the Editor Have you ever looked into the mirror and despised what glared back at you? This is a question most of you will probably be able to say yes to. So many girls grow up hating their bodies and the way that they look. Why is this? I know for me, it was because I grew up seeing every model in a fashion magazine being very slim. Not to mention if a celebrity gained some weight it would be plastered all over gossip magazines with a title something like “Diet Disaster Kerry Katona packs on 3 stone!” and paired with a totally unflattering beach picture. Even now this is still happening; I saw a gossip magazine that literally had arrows pointing to Kim Kardashian’s “Back and elbow fat”, even though she was pregnant when they published this! I grew up in a society that criticised gaining weight and celebrated weight loss and slimness, as did many others and it is no wonder so many young girls have health problems and a distorted body image. As I’ve grown up, social media has been a way for me to discover the wonders of body positivity. Seeing someone in an image that displays a similar body shape to you, or embraces a flaw that perhaps you have too, it makes you feel good. You feel like you are not alone, and that if someone else can be happy with similar ‘flaws’ that you loathe, why can’t you? This is why it’s so important to celebrate and represent bodies of all shapes and sizes.
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In this first ever issue of Betwixt, we are going to be focusing on exploring the ‘inbetweenie’. Someone who isn’t straight size (Sizes 4-8) but someone who also is not technically plus size (Size 18+). We are going to be looking at her place within the fashion industry and how it categorizes her. We also have an exclusive insight into what it is like to be a runner for London Fashion Week and take a trip to Brick Lane in London to interview Luiza Jordan; an up and coming artist about her struggles with weight, and how she has come to love her body. The ‘inbetweenie’ is also
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discussed more in depth in our critique of weight issues within women and the fashion industry, this article sits alongside some fabulous illustrations from talented illustrator Amy Hall, who we have collaborated with. There is all of that and a lot more within the pages of Betwixt. No matter how different you feel, how betwixt and between, how alienated; we want you to be able to find your place in Betwixt .
CONTENTS
6 - 15
Two Days as a Runner for London Fashion Week.
16 - 19
Betwixt and Between: The Average women in the Fashion Industry.
20 - 25
Love
Your Alien Editorial.
26 - 35
Brick Lane, Coffee and the Struggles of Being a Girl Interview.
36 - 37 Dear Fairy Godmother.
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TWO DAYS AS A RUNNER FOR
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I got the chance to be a runner for On|Off at their London Fashion Week showcase. Obviously, I jumped at this chance, as it’s a well known fact that if you want to work within the fashion industry, you need as much experience as possible. On|Off is a creative platform, formed to and known for representing both emerging and established talent. On|Off was founded by Lee Lapthorne in 2003 and has helped launch the careers of many talents such as JW Anderson, Gareth Pugh and Louise Gray. Read on to find out about my experience being a runner for On|Off both front and back of house.
Day One: The first day of work began at 12pm on the 18th February. A train to Victoria and a tube to Oxford Street and I was pretty much there. The venue was The Vinyl Factory just off of Covent Garden. It was a really impressive venue that was very open and light. Walking through the entrance doors, work had already been underway for a while. There were builders and electricians preparing and decorating the venue ready for the shows the next day. The first thing I noticed was the amazing mirror wall they were assembling at the back of the catwalk. The first task we were all given was to go backstage and start setting up the dressing room. They had those cool movie star mirrors with the bulbs all around the edge that you’re used to seeing in old school hollywood movies. Then the lifting started...oh the lifting, my arms are still aching now. We probably spent an hour or so to-ing and fro-ing, carrying clothing rails, posters and benches into the venue. You know those queue barriers with the retractable belts? They don’t actually come fully attached to their bottoms and we were all stood there trying to attach them thinking “I’ve never even considered this as a job people actually have to do!”. I tell you what, the bottoms of those barriers are the heaviest things I’ve ever had the struggle of carrying! Doing jobs like that makes you
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realise all of the small things that have to be done to contribute to the preparation for such a big event. We also carried countless boxes of wine and beer inside thinking “is this all really going to be consumed?” What a naive thought on reflection; loads of free alcohol at a fashion event? Of course. A really cool thing we got to do is carry all of the clothing that would be appearing in the following day’s shows. Seeing all of the garments up close and noticing all of the intricate details; I was eager to see how they all looked on the models in the show. I’m trying not to make this whole piece about carrying stuff, but to be honest that is probably the job we had to do the most for the whole two days! 24 boxes of mannequins had to be carried as well, and by this point my arms were close to falling off. I was just thinking of all the calories I was burning. Seven hours and a half an hour break later, everything was beginning to take real shape ready for the next day. I went home slightly
dreading the 6AM start the next morning, but mainly enthusiastic for show day.
Day Two: Walking to the station at 6.40 in the morning, the sun was just rising and I thought “wow I haven’t been up this early in a long time” and it felt good to be doing something really productive with my day. I’d only been to London Fashion Weekend before; the one that the public are allowed to go to. Therefore, I felt pretty exclusive being able to get access to the event, even if I was just a runner. I arrived to The Vinyl Factory at 8AM having observed how eerily quiet the streets of London were at that time of the morning. The atmosphere at the venue was even more lively than the day before, with more preparations underway for the impending shows. Hair and makeup had already arrived and were setting up their products and equipment. My first task for the day was to go and buy some lightbulbs from a nearby electrical shop. I was handed the company card, told to get transparent white bulbs and back out into the crisp morning air I went. I found one that was less than a five minute walk away that was luckily open at 8.40 in the morning. I went in and asked the little old man who was behind the till for assistance. “I need white transparent bulbs please” and he just looked at me oddly. “So do you need white bulbs or clear bulbs?”
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and I replied in a bit of a jumble “I need transparent bulbs that have a white light and aren’t yellow-y coloured”. I could tell that he thought that I was a bit of an idiot!“So you need daylight bulbs then. What wattage do you need?”. I didn’t know and he was pretty rude to me to be honest, I don’t know anything about lightbulbs and was just trying to get what I was told. “Come back to me when you know” He pretty much spat. I rang someone quickly to check and grabbed 10 bulbs. They were 6.50 each. Six pounds fifty e a c h. It came to something like 60 pounds. That’s extortionate London prices for you. When I arrived back to the venue it was bustling. The first shows started at 10AM and walking through backstage was a maze; squeezing through models and makeup artists and feeling constantly in the way. The first catwalk show featured Yana Chervinska’s designs. The collection had an array of mesh and knitted dresses, tiered floral coats and graphic printed jackets. We were lucky enough to be allowed to watch the show as there were some spare seats. The colours and textures of the collection worked really well together and I loved the glossy make up. The music playing actually scared me because it said “If you are using any social media, you will be removed from the venue” as part of the song. We all looked
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at each other whilst snapchatting the show, not knowing if it was a serious claim or not .At the same time as the first catwalk Clio Peppiatt’s presentation began. Clio Peppiatt has designed for likes of singers Charlie XCX and Marina and The Diamonds. I really loved this presentation. The room was decorated to look like a ‘hotel’ lobby with fluffy carpets, vintage sofas and a fireplace. The collection was so my taste; mesh leotards with strategically placed heart patches, pom pom berets, fur coats and glitter jackets. To die for! Tatty Devine provided the mini suitcase handbags and accessories and Steezie’s provided the fluffy bunny heeled slippers. Throughout the day, I observed what I expected to see. All of the models were conventional very tall and very slim; straight size models. I didn’t expect to see any variation with the type of models they used, as of course this is the way the fashion industry works. owever, saying this, I did see a model
in Clio Peppiatt’s presentation that had let her natural leg hair and armpit hair grow. This was something I didn’t expect to see, but I thought it was positive as it was still a breaking of the conventions of the way fashion models are ‘supposed’ to look. After the presentation ended it was time to rush around again to prepare for the next shows. This time they were both presentations; one by designer Edeline Lee and one by Little Shilpa. Once clearing the benches from the last show, in came black and white squares to transform the floor into monochrome checkered tiles. There also came countless bags of coloured shredded paper, which were then emptied into piles around the room. This collection was so minimal and totally wearable (as sometimes you see amazing collections but some of the pieces are hard to imagine wearing in the real world). I loved the black and white trimmed garments, oversized double breasted coats and there was the most beautiful red gown; fitted on the body with floaty sleeves. The other presentation was by designer Little Shilpa and the collection was filled with an array of pastel colours and lace. The models wore amazing head dresses and sweatshirts with lace ‘wings’. I heard the designer herself telling the models to ‘spread your wings!’. These presentations were the ones that lasted the longest and we hadn’t much to do in that time, so we enjoyed the shows and helped ourselves to the free food and drink available. We were doing 15 hours of free work, so I think we deserved it!
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Once the shows had ended, the hard work began again with our first job being to pick up all of the shredded paper on the floor. Massive wheelie bins came in and we began scooping as much paper up as we could and cramming it into the bins. I swear it took over an hour to pick up every last scrap of paper! The next presentation was by Jessie Western, I only got to see this presentation for a little while as me and a few other girls were sent on a mission to get ice for the party later on in the evening. From what I saw of the collection, I loved. I saw amazing cowboy boots and suede jackets paired with the most authentic western jewelry and accessories. As for our mission, I think it was probably the most strange mission I’ve ever had to do. We treked to Sainsbury’s near Tottenham Court Road, which is a walk in itself. When we arrived we, bought 60 bags of ice, borrowed a trolley and wheeled all of the ice through Oxford Street back to the venue. I don’t think I’ve had so many funny looks before! It was a hilarious trip though, and we were laughing all of the way back trying to control the trolley. By the time we got back, the finale show was almost ready to begin. We brought all of the boxes of wine through and stocked up the bar, using the ice to cool the bottles. The venue began filling up fast, everyone looked so fashionable and eager to see the show. It was
crazy to see how many times the room had changed throughout the day to
Edeline
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Lee
Presentation
cater for each show. The finale, which was showcasing up and coming talents, had a
catwalk running down the middle of the room and then the models walked onto the area, where I had fitted the light bulbs earlier, and had a live photoshoot. I thought this was a really interesting and unique idea. When the show begun, my friend and I tried our best to see the show but we had gotten crammed in a crowd of people and all we could see was heads! I took a few pictures which somehow enabled me to catch a glimpse of the show, however luckily the show was being broadcast by Dazed and Confused, so I knew I could watch it again later. It seemed to be over so quickly and it made me realise all of the hours running around and preparation is only for a few minutes of show time. Even the jobs of the runners are important to the success of the show, as they may be the ‘rubbish’ jobs, but they are the jobs that still need to be done! Once the show was over and people realised there was free wine, there was a gigantic queue for the drinks. I quickly realised why there had been so much wine delivered. I have to say, that whoever chose to order glass wine glasses was pretty silly. There was literally smashed glass all over the place and every time I picked up glasses from the floor someone would knock me and they would all go flying. I then took on the job of washing up the glasses that people had used because we had run out of new ones. I actually stood there for about two hours rinsing wine glasses with hand soap and cold water; my hands were all
Jessie
Western
presentation
shrivelled up once someone took over from me. It really makes you appreciate people that do these sort of jobs on a daily basis, such as cleaning and washing up people’s plates and cups. After a few hours of rushing around, the place died down a little bit and we were told we could enjoy some of the free wine! I was so happy. All of the runners took to the dancefloor, wine in hand and got down to some banging tunes such as Can’t Feel my Face by the Weeknd and American Boy by Estelle. Whilst we were all dancing I got this immense feeling of happiness and gratitude; I felt so lucky to be able to have the opportunity to help out for On|Off. It was something I had never done before and it confirmed to me that fashion is where I want to be. No matter what ‘rubbish’ jobs I have to do to get where I want to be.
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Overall, I really enjoyed my experience of being a runner for London Fashion Week. I would one hundred percent do it again, and I would highly recommend anyone who loves fashion to put yourself out there and get these opportunities and experiences under your belt. You will realise how valuable they are in the future.
Talents of Tomorrow catwalk
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BETWIXT AND BETWEEN The the
Average Fashion
Women in Industry
Flicking through an issue of Vogue my eyes are met with a multitude of adverts for highend designers. Chanel, Dolce and Gabbana and Chloe. All different designers but all share one thing in common; they all only feature slim models. Look elsewhere and you’ll find the same thing. Topshop, River Island, Missguided and other high street brands also use slim models in their advertisements too. Yeah that’s fine, they do look amazing so don’t get me wrong! However, I’ve grown up seeing only slim models wearing amazing clothes. I, amongst many other girls have felt like this is a way that brands visually show us ‘this is the market for our clothing and it will only look good on you if you are that size’. Of course there is the plus size market, which has boomed in the last few years. Many high street and online brands have created a plus size clothing section, offering their products to women of larger sizes. In terms of modelling, there is straight size and plus size models. Straight size being the models you typically see in most runway shows and editorials. Straight size models fall on the low extreme, ranging from a UK size 4-8 whereas the plus size range is more equivocal. Plus size clothing has been defined as ‘clothing proportioned specifically for people whose bodies are larger than the average person’s’. However, take a look on a plus size modelling agency website and you’ll quickly find models who Illustrations by Amy Hall
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start at UK size 14 and sometimes even a UK size 12. Considering that the UK average size is a 16, it’s hard to comprehend how these sizes are considered plus size. So these so called ‘plus size’ women actually fall into the average spectrum of sizes, causing the argument to arise; what IS plus size? ASOS received some criticism not so long ago. Their ‘Curve’ range starts at a UK size 18, however they were frequently using the model Bree Warren; whose model card states she is a UK size 14. She is great at her job, yet she scarcely represents the size 18 and plus people who are buying the products. It’s a similar situation with the regular ASOS collection. The range starts from size 4 to a size 16 or 18. This is a much wider range than most high street stores, however they only use size 8 models to wear the clothing. Isn’t the point of models so that we get an idea what the clothing will look like on ourselves? Only a small majority of women can actually get an accurate idea, the rest of us are left guessing.
I’ve constantly looked for someone that represents my body type in the fashion industry. But, what I was often met with was size 8 models or size 18 models. I looked at them and thought to myself ‘neither of these women look anything like me.’ When I have seen someone that I feel does represent my body, they have been labelled as plus size. Whilst there has been many steps to embrace the plus-size community within the fashion industry, I still can’t help feeling negative about similar bodies as mine being labelled as plus size. There is still such a stigma against the term plus-size. It is something that has been looked down upon with a negative attitude for such a long time that even though we’re on the road to welcoming ‘plus size’, we’ve still got a way to completely change the negative view on it. (And This is a time we should be celebrating simply because I just don’t all sizes and it very much feels like feel like I am plus sized at all.) Go back the average woman (which is us!) to the fact that the average UK size isn’t represented or isn’t represented is a 16 and this should confirm that correctly in the fashion industry. As I’m technically not ‘plus size’, but the much as we say ‘we shouldn’t way that the fashion “As someone define ourselves’ as humans, industry label bodies is who has ranged we automatically look to group completely different and from a size 12-16 ourselves. This is because this is no wonder so many when we are around people throughout my women are confused and we have things in common teenage years, I’ve have a distorted body with it makes us feel more constantly looked image. united. As someone who has for someone that ranged from a size 12-16 represents my body Last year the term or throughout my teenage years, type in the fashion ‘in-betweener’ Betwuxt 18 industry.”
something I and a lot of other women ‘inbetweenie’ arose. A term to describe would like to see more of in the fashion women straddling both sides of the size industry. A range of different sized spectrum and therefore could range women, all equally billed and it not from UK size 10-16. Size 14 model Myla used as a marketing Dalbesio who modelled for “We’re not skinny ploy (“Look at these plus Calvin Klein last year used enough to be size models alongside the term to describe herself; straight-size, like these ‘normal’ models”). “We’re not skinny enough to these [US] size be straight-size, like these zero and two girls, They are all just models, together in one shoot, [US] size zero and size two and we’re not simple as that. girls, and we’re not big big enough to be enough to be plus-size.” plus-size” - Myla If you think about it, When I read this I Dalbesio thought, “Finally ‘inbetweenies’ are actually pretty lucky; a definition (If we can finally use something, that I have to be defined) that I has hindered us in the past, to our actually relate to!” Dalbesio modelled for Calvin Klein advantage. Women who are size 1416 can shop in pretty much any store; alongside straight size models and the best bit buying regular and plus size clothing. about it was that she wasn’t We actually have more choice! labelled as plus size or any differently from the We may not find very many people to other girls. look to in the media and the fashion This is industry that represent us, but look online and you will find an array of blogs and instagrams that are run by women of all sizes who promote a strong message of body positivity. From personal experience, I find scrolling through these blogs and instagram pages really helpful when I’m having a lousy body image day. The people who run these pages are real people, just like us, and they can help you so much to feel more positive about your body and feel inspired. If you’re wondering who to check out, I personally follow Barbie Ferreira (@Barbienox), Mina Mahmood (@bae.doe), Dounia Tazi (@dounia.t) and Megan Crabbe (@bodyposipanda). You can find all of these amazing girls on instagram!
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photography: Petra Gyerman styling: Lucy Ford model: Gemma Ford
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Why do we have to feel like an extraterrestrial on our own planet? It’s almost like the fashion industry points lasers at our bodies and blasts it if it is not what they want it to be. We should be breaking the force-field surrounding our bodies and changing our warped sense of what we ‘should’ look like. We should be jumping onto the spaceship of self love and blasting off into the galaxy of acceptance.
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Brick Lane, Coffee We head up to Brick Lane in and the London with up-and-coming Luiza Jordan for a Struggles artist fun day out and discuss views on weight in the of Being her fashion industry and her own struggles with the way a Girl. she looks. Betwuxt 26
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We spent a day with Luiza Jordan and headed up to Brick Lane in London to explore some vintage stores and charity shops. Once we had shopped ourselves silly, we collapsed into a soft leather sofa in Starbucks and discussed Luiza’s views of the fashion industry and how it represents the female body. We also investigate some of her own struggles she has faced in the past to do with her weight and how it has affected her selfesteem. How have images of women in the media shaped your perception of yourself?
having a flat stomach or thighs that don’t touch, it’s about feeling comfortable in your own skin and being unique. What are your views on straight size (size 4-8) models being the ones the fashion industry use the most? I don’t think that the way that ‘regular’ sized clothes have ever been a true indication on how clothes will usually look on about 80% of women when buying clothes. I have never understood how you can sell clothes to women which are size 10-14 without giving them a true idea of how it will look on their body when you are seeing a slim and petite woman modeling these clothes. I can’t even count how many times I have found clothing I absolutely love and then being sourly disappointed when trying it on and realizing it is not flattering on my body shape.
“I have learnt
that beauty isn’t necessarily about having a flat stomach or thighs that dont touch...”
Images In the media of celebrities in the past have either highlighted when women have put on weight or lost it or whether they have been working out or eating more. In the past I have felt as though it is unrealistic to look as ‘perfect’ as some women shown in the media, but as I’ve matured and grown older I have realized there is no ‘ideal’ way that beauty should look and that images shown in the media are often manipulated and taken professionally to look flawless. I have learnt that beauty isn’t necessarily about
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What is your view on the plus size industry and what is categorized as plus sized? I don’t think the media represent the plus size well, either. When online shopping and when I see
adverts for plus size clothing companies these show curvy but regular sized women. This is the exact same issue as I have described in the question previous, this isn’t an accurate idea of how women will really look in the clothes. Plus size isn’t 12-14 and I don’t know why companies are so reluctant to represent these sizes in a true sense to the customers that will be buying the clothes. Do you feel that average sized women are well represented in the media and the fashion industry? If not, do you think this can affect the way average women feel and view themselves? Not at all. Being larger than a size 8 can be soul destroying for some women. It makes them feel as if they are not beautiful and not able to ever feel c o m fo r t a b l e or look the way they wish in their clothes. The media makes the average woman in society feel as if it is unacceptable to not have a flat stomach or have a couple of lumps and bumps.
Do you think a lot females put too m u c h emphasis on what size label they are? I think this is so true. Throughout my teen years of being a young girl in the UK, growing up in this society made me so conscious about not fitting into a size 12. If I didn’t fit into the size 12, I would refuse to buy it. I felt almost a sense of shame... which is really bad looking back on it. I think even now to some extent even though I feel very comfortable with my self image and body being a comfortable size 10, I still feel a little conscious when I don’t fit into something that isn’t my ‘size.’ Its wrong!
“I don’t know why companies are so reluctant to represent sizes in a true sense to the customers that buy the clothes”
Has your weight affected your self esteem and confidence in the past?
Majorly. Particularly in the summer just passed (2015) where I was at my biggest (11 stone 10 pounds) and a size 14. This made me feel low, I didn’t feel comfortable in any of my clothes and I felt sluggish. I didn’t feel like I was worthy
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of the relationship I have with my partner and I was always conscious of being in pictures with my friends. I have lost a lot of weight since then but reflecting on the way I felt now makes me realize just how uncomfortable I was being a ‘larger’ size. As you’ve grown up have you felt ‘pressure’ to lose weight or to look a certain way? Of course. I’ve felt a pressure at times to have a different shaped body. It doesn’t matter if you have the healthiest diet or loose tones of weight, your shape and frame will never change, and I have just learnt to live with the fact that I will never have a smaller chest, tiny thighs or smaller hips! Girls have to learn to love the way they are and to learn how to dress in a way that makes them feel comfortable! What steps do you think could be made to help widen the representation of women’s bodies in the media and the fashion industry? Firstly, Its obvious that ‘normal’ sizes and ‘plus size’ clothing websites need to start photographing their clothes on regular sized and ACTUAL plus size women to give a true and realistic view of reality for women and how clothes will actually look on
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them. This is so important. I think people also need to start realizing that everyone is different and the media need to exaggerate this. Different shaped bodies and different frames need to be embraced, and women need to learn to live with and love their bodies and feel uniquely attractive. What advice would you give to someone who trying to overcome their body confidence issues? Forget about everyone else and how everyone else looks/what size your friends wear. Wear what YOU want to wear, wear what makes YOU feel comfortable. Never feel a pressure to look the same as other girls and instead of seeing your flaws, see your positives too. I grasped that the flaws in my body are actually what makes my body unique and different... As an artist, do you think the art industry and fashion industry differ in terms of their representation of the female body? Well, it depends who the artist is and what the work is about. I have studied this throughout the entirety of my degree and looked at feminism in conjunction with the female form and found that the female body in some instances in art can appear highly sexualized and eroticized. In other instances, the female form is celebrated by feminist artists, and the body is shown as a spectacle of beauty. I think this is similar in some ways to the fashion industry in that some companies still show models in a sexualized and idealized way and edit the images and bodies of the models to fit a certain category to be ‘attractive.’ This is the dark side of the industry. Moreover, I do believe that some parts of the industry are beginning to show women as they really are and have started to open avenues for others to appreciate the larger/regular shapes and sizes of the woman to be desirable and striking/attractive.
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“Different shaped embraced, and wo their bodies and f
d bodies and different frames need to be omen need to learn to live with and love feel uniquely attractive.� Betwuxt 35
Dear Fairy Godmother, I wish for massive G cup boobs that the boys will adore, I wish for a 24 inch waist, not an inch more, I wish for long flowing blonde hair, I wish for massive confidence and flair, I wish for Kylie Jenner’s lips, I wish for little perfect nips, I wish for constantly manicured nails, I wish for never having to get on the scales, I wish for slender toned thighs, I wish for not making an effort and still getting the guys, I wish for rock hard abs, I wish for no fucking rolls of flab, I wish for never looking old, I wish for looking the way I’ve always been told. Yours Wishfully,
Lucy
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Credits: Editor, Words, Stylist and Art Director: Lucy Ford Love Your Alien Photographer: Petra Gyerman Illustrations: Amy Hall Models: Gemma Ford and Luiza Jordan
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