Trend
Analysis
“ N0369699 Lucynda Jackson Fashion Communication and Message
Contents Trend one. –The American Dream
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Trend two. – The Purists
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The Trend. – The American Dream
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The Origin The Press and Publications The Brands The Terminology Street Style Brand case study
Page 12 Page 13-18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21-25 Page 26-27
Trend one. The American Dream S/s 12
1.1 Vintage Fantasies 1.2 The Twenties Rebellion 1.3 Gatsby Glamour
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Trend One. 2
The American Dream 1.1 Vintage Fantasies
Motivations Expressing an embraced, nostalgic view towards 50s style. Restyling/championing the past. The wannabie spring fling.
Brands- Personalities Marc Jacobs –sheen and shine Proenza Schouler Valentino – classic 50’s glamour Jil Sander- gingham Rochas –preppy, prim and proper Prada- show muscle cars 3
The American Dream 1.2 The Twenties Rebellion
Motivations To set the stage for rebellion, think scandal, prohibition, and adultery Become the poster girl for fierce attitude, updating timeless style with a modern edge
Brands- Personalities Gucci Givenchy Etro
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The American Dream 1.3 Gatsby Glamour
Motivations Be the icon, tell your story Conspicuous consumerism Lavish abundance of riches To admire and be admired
Brands- Personalities Gucci Etro Marchesa Ralph Lauren Versus Sonia Rykiel
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Trend two. The Purists S/s 12
1.1 Looking Glass Reflectors 1.2 Pale and the Paired Down 1.3 White to the Point 6
Trend two.
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The Purists 1.1 Looking Glass Reflectors
Motivations Super sleek, the purist way to glitz and glamour Clean lines and sleek tailoring sets a high rich tone
Brands - Personalities Chanel Christopher Kane Marc Jacobs Giles Marios Schwab
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The Purists 1.2 Pale and Paired Down
Motivations Pale and interesting gains status, purity and virginal Pared down subtle tones hint at a modesty in style, not obtuse in sickly attention
Brands - Personalities Dolce and Gabanna Dior Louis Vuitton Mui Mui Marc Jacobs Christopher Kane Carolina Herrara Calvin Klein Nicole Fahri Lavin Givenchy Oscar de la Renta Tommy Hilfiger 9
The Purists 1.3 White to the Point
Motivations The clinical look and thinking of a genius. Purity rules as a new sophistication, clean lines, straight talking. The new minimalism doctraine.
Brands- Personalities Celine Diane Von Furstenburg Stella McCartney Louis Vuitton Giambasttista Valli Chloe Dolce and Gabanna
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The Trend.
The American Dream
“ A nostalgic look to American’s stylish past, reimaged and reconstructed in the present
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The Trend.
The Origin.
Vintage Fantasies Think of jocks wearing puffy sports jackets representing teams, think perfect housewife, full skirts and preppy teens with a dashing of gingham prints.
With the presidential election looming, and economic status dwindling designers look to the affluent 1950’s with retro/ vintage Americana styles, think sheen fabric, prints and bright Cadillac red.
The Twenties Rebellion Think deco detail, long cool cigarettes, fishnet tights, prohibition, conspicuous consumerism, adultery, and scandal….this was the Jazz age!
One impetus for the Art Deco rage in fashion could have been the sudden obsession with 20’s nostalgia. However ‘The Twenties Rebellion’ Trend updates the naïve, modest look, to become hard, aware and ultimately modern.
Gatsby Glamour Think flapper girls, lavish riches, diamonds, glamour and all night parties.
The trend has cultivated in a reaction towards the upcoming much anticipated Baz Luhrmann adaptation of Classic 1920’s ‘The Great Gatsby’. The catwalks ushered a sense of swarve sophistication, suggestions of 20’s dropped waist silhouette’s and bejewelled garmentsnostalgic and true to the era in every sense. 12
The Trend. The Press and publications.
Marie Claire “Channelling the catwalk show, where guests were seated in vintage cars...the blonde bombshells and sultry noir heroines bring Prada’s SS/12 collection to life, showcasing the micro pleated skirts, silk head-scarfs and of course those killer lipstick heels that we all loved when they tottered down the catwalk” Chloe Mac Donnell
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Style Magazine Taking the style that was in the culture and bringing it first to all of America and then worldwide. Matthew Schnier
Vogue UK
Designers have shrugged off recession gloom with dreams of a more affluent era: Fifties USA. Prim plaids, from pastel checks to classic tablecloth ginghams, brought a prim and preppy air to Jil Sander and Rochas, while Prada's muscle-car print is the motif to covet Lucy Hutchings 13
The Trend. The Press and publications.
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Dazed and Confused.
Frida Giannini Indulged in flapper-girl chic in the evening, hijacking the classical drop waist and fringes with chains and metallic appliqués… Alice Pfeiffer
…Muses such as Nancy Cunard, Louise Brooks and all these personalities in the 1920’s, who were very unconventional for their time were also key. Frida Giannini
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Dazed and Confused. Tisci mixed 1920s references with futuristic brooches, beaded collars in shades of white, beige and brown
Givenchy’s collection was inspired by generous and chandelier-like 1920 jewellery, which it humorously hijacked by creating giant nose rings, clipped between the nostrils. Contrary to the pinks and lime washes of previous seasons, the palette exclusively contained black, white and chocolate brown. Tisci picked up his own classics – stars, conductor’s jackets, and the more recent spikes, applying them on individually sewn alligator and skin scale, embroidered chiffon and silk, and Swarovski-encrusted racer-back dresses. “Tisci’s collection was inspired by generous and chandelier-like 1920 jewellery, which it humorously hijacked by creating giant nose rings, clipped between the nostrils” More 20s references were made, such as wide blouses with sewn-on, beaded collars, retro-futuristic brooches and ultrawide leg trousers. Yet this was deeply rooted in 2012, as Tisci merged those with contemporary references: a basketball here, a giant zip there, and purposely unwearable shoes gave a postmodern wink to an otherwise classic collection.
By Alice Pfeiffer 15
The Trend. The Press and publications.
Vogue UK
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Cast yourself as a modern-day Daisy Buchanan for evening in tasseled trims - in abundance at Gucci and Etro - Marchesa's lavish beading or a froth of ostrich feathers at Ralph Lauren. Lucy Hutchings
The New York Times. It’s a way of women returning to a glamorous notion of dressing,… designed for splendour and extravagance.” Charlotte Perman
Dazed and Confused. Ralph Lauren the all-American designer focused on a 1920s look with an elegant and chic series of eveningwear pieces in embroidered sequins David Hellqvist 16
The New York Times.
Why Deco Now? Every fashion designer, they say, is an architect manque, intent on imposing a structure on the wayward human form. That observation seemed especially apt in a season of spring runway shows filled with dresses constructed to glide over the body and embellished to echo the linear symmetry of Art Deco design. Ruth La Ferla reports on emerging trends from the shows to the streets. Frida Giannini of Gucci was but one in a handful of influential fashion makers to embrace the hedonistic spirit of the Jazz Age, releasing on her catwalk in Milan a succession of free-spirited flapper dresses emblazoned with the outlines of the Chrysler Building and other Deco monuments. “I like the architectural shapes,” Ms. Giannini said, “especially the New York skyscrapers of the period.” The Chrysler Building was a touchstone at Etro as well, where Veronica Etro showed block-print geometric designs inspired by that silver-tipped landmark, as well as black-and-white graphics on a kimono coat, and a sinuous charmeuse evening column paired with a fringed bed jacket. Louche references to the speakeasy age resonated in the New York collections, too, as designers as disparate as Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch and Ralph Lauren offered drop-waist looks trimmed with bows and siren-y sequined Deco motifs.
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But fashion doesn’t happen in a vacuum, of course. In Europe, one impetus for the current Deco rage could well have been the silent film “The Artist,” a newly minted black-and-white star-is-born saga unveiled at Cannes in May (and which opened in New York on the weekend). In that production, set in 1927, the heroine, Peppy Miller (Berenice Bejo), sashays around in the kinds of slinky giltlavished dresses Clara Bow might have worn. It’s likely that a raft of designers saw the film on its European release. In New York, madcap flapper styles were tiered, glitterflecked and wreathed in fringe, owing more of a debt to the roaring 1920s of “Midnight in Paris,” Woody Allen’s cinematic homage to the era of Picasso and Hemingway. Mr. Lauren offered a nostalgic nod to his own 1970s costumes for “The Great Gatsby” and seemed to allude simultaneously to the much anticipated Baz Luhrmann Gatsby revival, set to open in theaters late next year. What does it all signify? Well, it’s tempting to read this latest resurrection of the pre-Crash 1920s as a portent of lean times. Or not. Sometimes, after all, a trend is just a trend. Ruth La Ferla
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The Trend.
The Brands
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The Trend. The Terminology.
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The Trend. Street Style.
Sarah O’Connell
Emma Gorden
Laura Andrews
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Street Style.
Sarah O’Connell, 37, is an Art Director from London. The muted grey palette of this cleverly ensembled outfit makes for the perfect chic daywear. The synched in waist, full skirt and decadent silk head scarf all denote a distinctive 1950’s nostalgia. “ I love heritage and vintage timeless pieces of clothing, this skirt for instance is inspired by 50’s style, small waist and full skirt which drapes and adds elegance”.
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Street Style.
Emma Gorden, 26, Marketing Coordinator from London. This casual and yet sophisticated outfit transcends an almost 20’s chic, with desirable drape and interesting deco detail on the cardigan. The dusted grey silk dress offers a sublime subversive sexiness to the outfit- the modern day answer to 20’s elegance, updated with eye-catching low dropped earrings and bold necklace. “ I like to mix and experiment with different trends and play on my style incorporating influence from heritage pieces”.
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Street Style.
Laura Andrews, 23, is a student from London. This playful outfit denotes a clear Vintage Americana feel. The synched in waist and draping black skirt set the tone for the unmistakable style, propelled by the colourful silk headband and off the shoulder embroidered lipstick red top. “I loved the 50’s style, Ive tried to recreate it myself, I think it was a very sophisticated style era, which complimented and accentuated the female form in spectacular fashion”
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Street Style.
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Ralph Lauren. Brand Case study. Ralph Lauren’s tone of voice enables the brand to convey its American heritage and personality through the language it employs. Ralph Lauren ensures its tone of voice is always consistent, so to allow the consumer another means of recognizing the brand and ultimately being reassured of expectations, such as‌
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Quintessential quality
Desirable brand
Heritage Feminine
Elegance
Luxury
American American Heritage
Luxury Traditional values
American Heritage Sophisticated timeless style
Sophistication
Brand as product
Brand as Experience
Luxury
Traditional
Quintessential quality
American Heritage
Elegant
Timeless
Brand as Symbol
American Heritage, timeless styled
Brand as Person
Brand as Organisation
Sophisticated
Refined
Privileged
Enduring
Original
Classical
Elegant Feminine
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