‘Bespoke is the new luxury, if you believe the forecasters, but then they also predict a return to genuine craftsmanship and a look that speaks less of sleek uniformity and more of the hands that made it.’ Danielle Proud, The Sunday Times, 23rd Nov 2008
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Contents
The Concept Introduction Ethos & Values
The Concept 4 - 9
The Range 40 - 46
The Range 40 - 46
Introduction 5
Competitor Price Competitor Structures 41 Price Structures 41
Ethos & Values 6
Range Structure Range & Pricing Structure 41 - 42 & Pricing 41 - 42
Branding & Aesthetics Branding & Aesthetics 7
Product Costing 43
Made In Britain
Product Life-Cycle 44
Made In Britain 8
Product Costing 43 Product Life-Cycle 44
Apprenticeships & Growth Apprenticeships & Growth 9
Distribution Channels 44 Distribution Channels 44
Market Research
Market Research 10 - 21
Web Design 45
Bespoke & Custom
Bespoke & Custom 11 - 12
ProductProduct ConceptConcept & Conclusion46 & Conclusion46 - 63 - 66
Web Design 45
Aspirational Aspirational Concept Brand Anya Anya Hindmarch Hindmarch Bespoke Bespoke 13 - 14
Design Concept 47
Macro-Environment Macro-Environment PESTLE Analysis PESTLE Summary Analysis 15
Mood, Detail & Colour BoardMood. 48 Detail 48 - 49
Micro-Environment Micro-Environment SWOT Analysis SWOT Analysis 16
A/W 2011/2012 A/W Trend 2011/2012 Analysis Trend 48Analysis - 61 50 - 64
Primary Questionnaire Primary Results Questionnaire Results 17
Range Range & Concept & Concept Summary2 Summary Marketing Mix 65
Secondary Questionnaire Secondary Questionnaire Results Results 18
Report Conclusion 63
Further Consumer Further Research Consumer Research 18
Appendices 64
Primary Consumer
Primary Consumer 19
Design Concept 47
Report Conclusion 66
Appendices 68 - 93
A Full PESTLEAAnalysis Full PESTLE 65 - 67 Analysis 69 - 71
Secondary Consumer ASecondary Consumer 20
B Primary B Primary Consumer Consumer Questionnaire Questionnaire 68 - 69 72 - 73
Secondary Consumer B Secondary Consumer 21
CCSecondary SecondaryConsumer ConsumerQuestionnaires Questionnaires7074- 75 - 79
Competitor Analysis Competitor Analysis 22 - 38
D Visual Consumer D Visual Research Consumer 76 Research 80
Market Mapping
Market Mapping 23 - 24
E Extensive Market E Extensive Mapping Market 77 Mapping 81
Upper Street 25 - 26
F Competitor F Competitor Comparison Comparison Table 78Table - 80 82 - 84
Freya Rose
Freya Rose 27 - 28
G Anya G Hindmarch Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Bespoke Interview Interview 81 85
Beatrix Ong
Beatrix Ong 29 - 30
H Beatrix Ong Interview H Beatrix 82 Ong Interview 86
Upper Street
Penelope Chilvers
Penelope Chilvers 31 - 32
I Location 83
Rupert Sanderson
Rupert Sanderson 33 - 34
J JContinued Continued A/W A/W 12/13 12/13 Trend Trend Analysis Analysis 88 - 92
Alexandre Birman
Alexandre Birman 35 - 36
K Retail Positioning84 - 88
Retail 93
PPD 90
PPD 94
Marc by Marc Jacobs See by Chloe
Marc by Marc Jacobs 37 See by Chloe 38
Bibliography 89 - 90
The Ra
I Location 87
Bibliography 95
Image ReferencingImage 91 - 93Referencing 96 - 97
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3
The Concept
Introduction Branding & Aesthetics Ethos & Values Made In Britain Apprenticeships & Growth
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Introduction
Tuesday Smith is a responsible British luxury women's footwear brand, manufacturing in England. The design ethos will go against throwaway fashion trends, creating products to love for generations. Aiming to support British craft and provide jobs, concept planning and in-depth market research is especially important for a socially responsible brand. This proposal intends to research and analyse the market environment, identify the brand's customer and competitors, It should also aid the continuation of brand setup, provide direction, and create awareness of future issues. The brand's values summarise the aims of the concept.
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Ethos & Values
British Designed & Made Tuesday Smith is proud to be British, and it's products will be produced in the UK. Since the production of countless items moved abroad, there has been a loss of skilled British craftsmen and women. The brand aims to raise awareness of this and support Britain’s creative heritage. Craftsmanship & Education The brand aims to provide education in craft techniques, giving apprenticeships to young, creative people, aiding the brand's growth, as well as providing British jobs, Each season, a new craft method will be employed and developed into the range, showcasing new applications of forgotten techniques. Quality Quality is paramount, and shall be monitored closely. Attention to detail costs little or nothing, and this will be maintained as a core value. Bespoke & Personal The range will be available as custom, with the customer choosing from a selection of materials. Personalisation is important, with initialing, or a stamped handwritten message. The owner’s name is more important than the designer's. Affordable Luxury The brand aims for the product range to be more affordable, with pricing falling below many luxury brands. It is important for the brand to grow, but maintaining craft heritage is a higher priority than competing with higher-end designers.
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Branding & Aesthetics
"A common misconception – and one that designers are always at pains to correct – is that a brand is simply a logo or identity. The logo is just one manifestation of a brand, although it’s often a top-level communication, seen most frequently by the greatest number of people. It should therefore embody the key ingredients of the brand in a distinctive, recognisable marque." Source : Designcouncil.org.uk - Business and Public Sector Branding
Establishing a strong identity is key to the grounding of the brand. It must be recognisable, and true to the brand values from here on forwards.
‘Word of mouth is the most powerful way in which news of your enterprise will spread, having a strong brand and clear image will help achieve that.’ Ashton, 2009 The logo has been previously developed alongside the web template (p45), and is traditional in style, but spaced for a fresh aesthetic. Including 'England' immediately lets the consumer know that the brand is proud to be British, linking with consistency to values.
The key logo is identifiable, and represents the traditional, craft element of the brand, which must be clear. ‘The artistic elements of the business proposition – for example the product, packaging and advertising execution – must remain very strong.’ Chevalier, Mazzalovo, 2008
As quoted, the aesthetic must be strong. fresh, clean but with craft influence, are key terms for the brand to work with, to establish an image and make the brand familiar.
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Made In Britain
'Even as sales on the high street are falling into what retailers are describing as "a blood-bath" home grown designer exports are more bouyant than they have been in years.' Sarah Mower, The Tumes, 26th Nov 2011
"Made in Britain would be a healthy banner and a healthy battle cry. The issue is not British ownership. It's about investing in Britain. Mat Hunter, Design Council, BBC News, 8th Nov 2011
In July 2011, the Made In Britain logo shown right was launched, and is gradually being adopted by retailers and manufacturers to clearly show customers a product's provenance., Tuesday Smith should aim to earn the right to display this logo. 'Creation of the marque follows research that 67% want a seal of approval that products were made here. It also showed that almost half of British shoppers did not know which brands could claim they were made in Britain.' Source: marketingweek.co.uk 18th Jul 2011
Websites such as frombritainwithlove.com have gained wide recognition and are becoming popular in the press. As an online magazine, frombritainwithlove.com (manifesto shown right) provides press, and consumer contact to specifically British designer-makers for ÂŁ100 per year. The publicity earned from such sites could prove invaluable to a littleknown brand like Tuesday Smith. "To maintain a traditional craft and to continue helping to support the local community. We believe passionately that manufacturing has to remain, even in a small specialised form, in Britain." Eifion Griffiths, of Melin Tregwynt Textiles, frombritainwithlove.com
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Apprenticeships & Growth
Although the business will start with the designer as the sole employee, a growth plan will need to be considered and put into motion before extra employees are urgently needed.
'We need to increase our skills base and young people are desperate for opportunities to develop rewarding careers.' Source : apprenticeships.org.uk Oct 25th 2011
As Tuesday Smith's aim is to provide British jobs and support craft training, apprenticeship schemes are a viable and widely supported method of introducing new employees to a business. Initiatives like 'Backing Young Britain', and National Apprentice Week are providing help to companies in taking on apprentices.
'Backing Young Britain (BYB) is a Government intitiative that aims to create work opportunities for you people, this includes Apprenticeships for 16 to 24 year olds.' Source : idea.gov.uk Nov 5th 2011
'The government fully funds apprenticeship training costs for 16 to 18-year-olds and matches training costs for 19 to 24-year-olds.' Source : idea.gov.uk Nov 5th 2011
Apprenticeships will also be vital to the brand's growth, estimated below.
Year 1 1 employee - The Designer After 8 months - Advertise or a suitable apprentice After 9 months - Begin apprentice training
Year 2 Advertise for a 3rd employee, taking over majority of admin After 6 months - Advertise for another apprentice
Year 3 Aim to be employing 5 full-time staff by end of year
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Market Research Bespoke & Custom - Trend Focus Aspirational Concept - Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Macro Environment - PESTLE Analysis Micro Envionment - SWOT Analysis Consumer Research - Questionnaire 1 & 2 Results Further Consumer Research Consumer Profiles
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Bespoke & Custom Trend Focus 'Providing customers with a way to customise clothing could help drive customer satisfaction and long-term loyalty.' Source: Mintel – Consumer attitudes toward luxury goods March 2011
As custom is part of Tuesday Smith's brand concept, it is important to see how other companies have embraced this trend,
Hermes In May 2011, Hermes relaunched its flagship store in New York with a new custom counter, selling its famous scarves with a choice 54 colour combinations, an example of how custom is being embraced even in very high luxury brands.
Prada Left are examples of the customisable products available on the Prada website. Initialling is the focus, and can be applied to bags, sunglasses and shoe-bags. It appears that Prada is gradually introducing this concept with a few products, but the application is interesting and very personal.
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Larin An online footwear concept, selling easily interchangeable accessories for a choice of 5 shoes. However, the choice of shoes is still quite limited, with only 5 courts of varying heights.
Nike I.D Nike I.D is one of the most popular examples of custom footwear, with a choice of colours and easy design process. Customers can also have their name or initials embroidered onto the tongue.
Converse A very similar concept to Nike I.D but with a much wider range of colours and patterns to choose from. although Nike I.D, starts at ÂŁ200, but converse starts at just ÂŁ50.
It is clear that customers want a personal product and this should be remembered throughout implementation of the concept, to ensure it is accessible and desireable. 12
Aspirational Brand Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview with Codie, Store Manager, Anya Hindmarch Bespoke, Appendix G
"There has been so much waste in fashion recently, but what is important are things that you keep, and want to hand on to your Grandchildren" Anya Hindmarch discussing her bespoke range
Brand... Although Anya Hindmarch is not a footwear designer, her bespoke range of products and the way they are sold is very inspirational, and could be a useful template for the Tuesday Smith brand. It is also a very British company, in both its traditional image and ethos. “We try to produce many of the products in Britain, but more specialist items such as the Ebury Bag, and the Keepsake Boxes are produced in Florence� Codie, Store Manager
The brand has a consistent image, in stores (shown left), concessions and online, and although large, with stockists in 8 countries, the feeling of a small business has been retained. Online there are personal touches like 'Anya's Diary' adding to customer experience.
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“The products are very personal, and that is what Anya wanted. There is a lot of choice, of leathers, finishes, and ways to personalise, with the embossing in almost any colour. I haven’t come across another brand that offers the same personal service yet”. Codie, Store Manager
Products... Products are stylish and understated, with clear focus on quality. Like Tuesday Smith, the emphasis of the bespoke range is that the products become treasured heirlooms. Customers choose materials and colours, and can edit the design to suit their needs. Each item has suprising details, such as the 'Lucky Penny' that comes inside every purse and wallet.
Left. a video on the website of Anya introducing the bespoke range, another example of personal branding. In this same way, putting creative touches to products will be important to Tuesday Smith.
Like Anya Hindmarch, promoting the 'British' provenance of the product and allowing customers to see the craft skills involved in its creation would be a useful marketing tool. 14
Macro-Environment PESTLE Analysis Summary Complete PESTLE Analysis can be found as Appendix A
Political ‘The government has to “boost the human capital of our country”, which it is doing by offering more apprenticeships and increasing the number of university places’ Source: BBC News Online
Most notably, the government has brought in new initiatives to improve employment opportunities for young people, as described above. This is positive news for Tuesday Smith's plan to provide skilled craft apprenticeships.
Economic Lending has become extremely difficult, therefore gaining funding is more challenging than ever. The increased VAT rate has also had a huge impact on profit margins for all industries.
'Most retailers have already increased clothes prices in the first quarter of 2011 or plan to in the second half of the year as a result of soaring prices in areas such as cotton, labour, energy and transport. While this has driven value growth, it has also moderated demand and led to a fall in volume sales.' Source: Mintel – Women’s Fashion Lifestyles UK May 2011
Consumer trends have altered due to the recession, but there is a growing trend toward investment buying.
‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Fashion Lifestyles UK May 2011
Social ‘Middle of the road retailers such as Clarks stand to benefit from an older population’ Source: Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011
The ageing population means that many fast-fashion retailers will struggle, with more demand for quality. The 2012 Olympics will bring business to London and interest to British companies, and this must be taken advantage of.
Technological Tablets and Smart Phones, and social networking have enabled retailers to engage their customers in exciting but inexpensive ways. Bloggers are now seen as important publicity, and gaining approval can impact hugely on popularity. 'Smart phones are still owned by only 12% of people – they’re more expensive and very highly specified, but those who have them have already realised the scope to use them for shopping. This does not mean they have to be used in isolation, they work well in conjunction with a laptop or desktop PC internet access – for example as a quick way of adding something to an Ocado shopping list.'Source: Mintel – E-Commerce Europe February 2010
Environment With the soaring cost of fuel, taking advantage of new 'green' incentives, such as solar power, and zero road tax on certain vehicles, can save substantially. The business should endeavour to recycle and minimise waste, to keep practises inline with common UK business practice. Using recycled boxes and paper will also help toward reducing the company's carbon footprint.
Micro-Environment SWOT Analysis Issues more closely related to the brand and its function have been explored through SWOT Strengths ⋅ British designed and produced, which can reduce costs such as shipping, and also fills a gap in the market, as shown by consumer research ⋅ Customisation of products, where there is also a gap in the market, in terms of making the product personal and special ⋅ Links with craft and education could increase interest in brand for moral reasons ⋅ Classic shoe styles, which are always in demand ⋅ Although price is lower than other luxury brands, exclusivity comes from production time and bespoke options. ⋅ Personal experience with both high street and luxury retailers gives broader insight ⋅ Knowledge of web design and PR, aids publicity and gaining brand awareness ⋅ Good computer skills aids design and specification processes ⋅ Good making and pattern cutting skills aids production and education schemes ⋅ London based, which is convenient for industry links and customer research
Weaknesses ⋅ May struggle to gain customer loyalty, as a new brand with no previous reputation ⋅ Small brand with little power when purchasing from suppliers, undercut by larger brands ⋅ Using classic shapes in range can mean missing out on best selling trends ⋅ Customers with unusual feet may struggle, as lasts are not bespoke ⋅ Detailing of designs may mean very slow production rate ⋅ Time constraints from having to teach staff, which could also cause quality issues. ⋅ Few materials and machinery. ⋅ Extra cost of custom options, handwritten message embossing plate cannot be reused for another customer ⋅ No current relationship with press
Opportunities ⋅ Horizontal growth through expanding product range to include small accessories and other entry-level products ⋅ Collaboration with other British brands which can generate publicity and therefore custom ⋅ Links with education and training favourable when being considered from government grants and other funding ⋅ Interest in British brands aided by UK and London tourism, could lead to discovering overseas market ⋅ Celebrity fans bring a great deal of business to many UK brands, for example Kate Middleton with Hobbs and Whistles ⋅ Social networking sites Facebook and Twitter are now commonly used by brands quickly and cheaply update fans with news of sales and products ⋅ Introduction of bespoke lasts at a later date
Threats ⋅ No reputation may mean less investment and interest from consumers ⋅ Setup costs may be difficult to cover with banks reluctance to lend ⋅ Statistically 8 out of 10 UK business start-ups fail within the first 5 years ⋅ The UK footwear industry is very large and competition is fierce ⋅ Cheap labour abroad may mean keeping production in Britain becomes increasingly difficult ⋅ Custom colour and materials options could mean overheads outweigh profit, especially when products runs are small ⋅ Unstable economic environment affects all areas of business
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External opportunities will grow in number as the brand becomes more established and must continually be reassessed to make the most of chances that present themselves. Though threats and weaknesses must be worked upon and steps taken to protect the brand and it's steady growth. 16
Primary Questionnaire Results See Appendix B for questionnaire statistics ‘It is important to understand people before attempting to engage them in a commercial transaction; of course consumer needs should come before those of the organisation’ Edwards & Day, 2005 To aid the understanding of consumers and their needs, a 10 question questionnaire was completed by 92 people, aged 18 to 60. Results revealed strong trends, with 86% noticing a lack of quality in shoes available. 34 women would describe the level of quality as 'Poor', and 45 said 'Average', showing that customers do look for quality and value when purchasing. 96% believe that there is a gap in the market for British manufactured footwear, which supports consumer reports, and the analysis of the growing demand for UK goods. This is supportive of Tuesday Smith's brand aims. With 85% of women agreeing with the statement 'Companies should aim to bring footwear production back to the UK', showing that despite the recession, consumers still care about product provenance, and supporting UK industry.
Q1 - Do you feel there is a lack of quality craftsmanship in
Q3 - Do you feel that there is a gap in the market for British designed and produced footwear?
Gauging opinions on designer footwear, 76% believe that a higher price does not necessarily mean higher quality rather 'You pay for a name', which could be useful as Tuesday Smith wishes to focus on British quality, rather than on brand-names, an anti-brand almost. The majority prioritise 'Quality', and 'Detail' over price when purchasing shoes, with 'Trendiness' lowest, indication that women are prepared to pay for a style they like. 34 believe in spending more on lasting classic styles, with 42 closely following. This supports the below Mintel quote.
Q5 - With regard to designer footwear, which of the following would you agree with best?
‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Lifestyles UK May 2011 Interestingly, question 9 revealed that the majority see the design style of footwear available as 'Poor', with 1 woman perceiving it as 'Exciting and Stylish'. This shows a possible link to the low prioritisation of 'Trendiness' in question 7. Women feel dissatisfied and uninterested in the many brands choosing to closely follow trends. 17
Q7 - Which do you consider your main priority when purchasing shoes?
Secondary Questionnaire Results See Appendix C for questionnaire statistics
The secondary questionnaire was completed to gain a more detailed insight into the customer's needs, and what real women want. A recurrent theme of size and fit is apparent, which could be an aspect that the brand moves to focus on in the future as it becomes more established. 'Wide fit whilst being fashionable too' 'Limited on styles an quality for ladies with larger legs' Focusing on this now, as well as custom and supporting British industry could dilute values and focus, but is a viable future opportunity. The view of the market is summed up well by one participant;
'Not enough good quality shops offering shoes that are a bit different' Women are not satisfied with the choice, especially for ages 35 to 60, with many stores now very trend focused. The general opinion is that retailers have lost sight of what customers want, in pursuit of lower margins. What is required is always quality, wearable, beautiful shoes that will last. The majority selected quality, and comfort, as their prioritised needs, with detailing and personalisation also being rated highly. Most loved the idea of having their shoes stamped with their own initials, which is a promising result. Provenance is important too, and most were supportive of 'British Made'. These results have helped to highlight clear issues in the market, but also gave a clearer indication of who the Tuesday Smith customer is, and of the age group that is to be targeted.
Further Consumer Research Secondary consumer research has also been completed, with key outcomes shown here.
'A third of adults are prepared to pay more for quality'. Source : Mintel Footwear Retailing UK - June 2011
'Rising clothes prices and low consumer confidence have had an impact on women’s shopping habits, with value for money having become even more important' Source : Mintel Women's Fashion Lifestyles UK - May 2011
The two statements above have proven through research to be linked, as described in the next statement, with more people choosing to make 'investment purchases'. Value is reliant on quality, as consumers want items to last.
'While women have cut back on clothes purchasing, both by trading down to less expensive stores and buying fewer garments, there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items' Source : Mintel Women's Fashion Lifestyles UK - May 2011 As Tuesday Smith's focus is on quality, this consumer trend is reassuring, and the brand could significantly boost interest through promoting this key value.
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Primary Consumer Age...
37
Profiles informed through visual research, Appendix D
Her Wardrobe...
Occupation...
Scarf £85 es Comptoirs D Cottoniers
TV Locations Manager Lives... Dulwich, London About...
• Married with 1 young child • Enjoys going to museums and
Dress £200 Sandro Coat £275 Reiss
galleries, and the cinema.
• Career driven, but spending time with
Top £59 COS
her family is equally as important. Gloves £130
Attitude to fashion... She loves British fashion, and takes pride in her appearance, experimenting with new colours. Likes to own something original and bespoke that is good quality. Classic silhouettes that flatter her figure are a staple, with interesting accessories.
Jeans £89
Diane Von
Levi's
Furstenburg
Life... Earns a good wage, helping to pay the mortgage on her 3 bedroom house. Enjoys travelling to warmer destinations such as Greece. Shops at Waitrose, Sainbury's, or online with Ocado. Enjoys keeping fit with yoga classes, but treats herself with regular meals out. Spending Habits... Although budgeting is not a priority, she tries to get value for money when she buys, and aims to buy fewer but better quality items. Sometimes favours Net-A-Porter and Matches for occasional treats. She shops trusted brands like Levi's for jeans, and Church's for brogues, but enjoys finding new labels that sell something a little bit unusual.
Bag £375 Vanessa Bruno
Secondary Consumer A Age...
50
Her Wardrobe...
Occupation...
Solicitor Lives... Bath, UK About...
• Married with 2
Shirt £99 Hobbs
Coat £450 Jaeger
teenage children Cardigan £69 NW3 by Hob bs
• Enjoys cooking and walking in the countryside.
Liberty Print Shirt £65 John Lewis C olection
• Loves spending time at her holiday home in the Cotswolds with family and friends.
Attitude to fashion... Hates to look too old, preferring a more toned down colour palette nowadays, Trends are unimportant, but tries to keep her wardrobe up-todate with fresh new accessories. Looks after her wardrobe well, making the items she loves last.
Gloves £140 Mulberry
Skirt £170 J Crew
Bag £650 Mulberry
Life... Career focused, she earns a high wage and has few money worries. Lives in a large home, owned outright. Enjoys relaxing in the family's Cotswolds cottage instead of abroad. Loves cooking for the family and favours local stores and farmer's markets for food, but Sainsbury's or Waitrose are good for essentials.
Jeans £65 Phase Eight
Spending Habits... Loves British brands like Hobbs and Jaeger, and trusts their quality. Has yet to order clothes online, as she prefers to try on. Buys only a few special items each season, avoiding sale rack leftovers.
Secondary Consumer B Age...
28
Her Wardrobe...
Occupation... Assistant Merchandiser Lives... Islington, London About...
Scarf £90 Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
• Single
Coat £165 ction French Conne
• Career focused, but likes to have fun with friends
• Loves exploring on weekend city breaks and finding new quirky stores
• Tries to keep fit and healthy, and
Cardigan £19.99 Zara
goes jogging to avoid gym costs Shorts £49 COS
Attitude to fashion... Likes to look good, but tries to do it on a budget. Trends are somewhat important, but owning something a bit different is more of a priority.
Dress £45.99 Zara
Bag £220 Milly
Bag £305 See by Chloe
Life... Earns a reasonable wage, but has to budget. Her rent is the biggest monthly expense. Tries to save money with deals, store cards and vouchers. Enjoys occasional meals out but mostly cooks at home, shopping at Sainsbury's or Asda. Spending Habits... An online shopping devotee, she scours Ebay for unusual bargains. Keeping up-to-date with blogs and apps, means she always knows about the sales first. Shops for fairly cheap items often, but saves to buy her 'investment' accessories each season. Offshoot brands such as See by Chloe are great, as she can afford designer names for a lower price.
Competitor Analysis Market Mapping Upper Street Freya Rose Beatrix Ong Penelope Chilvers Rupert Sanderson Alexandre Birman Luxury Entry-Level Labels: See by Chloe Marc by Marc Jacobs
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Market Mapping Extensive Market Mapping can be found as Appendix E Maps have been produced to clearly identify direct competitors and gaps in the market. Although the pricing bracket of Tuesday Smith's competitors covers a wide range, design aesthetic is equally as important when considering the consumer group.
Style vs Price
Competitors shown between lines
The above shows the area of the market where Tuesday Smith will operate, fulfilling a market gap between classic and design lead style. The type of custom service the brand offers cannot be found elsewhere, and differentiates the brand from competitors.
.
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Exclusivity vs Price
A high price does not necessarily mean high exclusivity. Although the average price of shoes by See by Chloe is around ÂŁ250, exclusivity has been retained, something Tuesday Smith should aim for.
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Upper Street Competing in Price & Concept
'Made to order shoes, designed by you'
USP Customers design their own shoes, applying a selection of colours, materials and embellishments to a choice of styles, similar to how the Tuesday Smith custom service will operate.
“Women appreciate quality, they want their shoes to last, and they want their shoes to be beautiful” Julia Grinham & Katy Chandler, Co-Founders of Upper Street
Brand & Aesthetic
Products
Founded by sisters Julia Grinham and Katy Chandler after they had difficulty finding stylish shoes for larger feet.
Prices start at £195 for flats, and take 6 weeks from the design to delivery. A large choice of fabrics, toe shapes, and embellishments give endless design combinations. Boots are to be introduced soon. A choice of upper patterns, allows customers to choose styles that suit their feet better.
A sleek, fashion-conscious image is conveyed clearly through the shoe design choices and website. The aesthetic is trendy, and fashionable, but also wearable.
£300
£275
£195
Snakeskin
Satin & Crystal Strap
Leather
Service Offers a full refund or exchange if shoes are unsuitable, and will also pay for problems to be locally fixed, reassuring customers. Materials samples can be sent for ÂŁ1 each, another method of securing sales. It is clear that thorough research has been completed, and the brand understands what women want.
Online
Customer
"One of the advantages of being on the internet, is that we're a British brand, but it makes us accessible to anybody, no matter where you're located" Julia
Fashion conscious, but wants comfort. Can be any age, as the brand provides unlimited combinations to suit anyone. It is ideal for a woman who wants to stand out from the crowd.
Grinham & Katy Chandler of Upper Street
- Imagery is computer generated but looks realistic. - Good style advice and reassuring information, to secure sales. - Simple '7 easy steps' to design your own shoes.
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Freya Rose Competing in Price & Concept
'An innovative, romantic and breathtaking approach to classic couture shoes'
USP
Brand & Products
Specialising in bespoke bridal footwear. Embellishment is key to her feminine style, and the materials and embellishments used are luxurious.
Feminine, romantic and unique made using high quality Italian silks and leathers. Heavily influenced by fine jewellery, and has collaborated with DeBeers diamonds. Luxurious materials are used, including freshwater pearls, diamonds and platinum. Signature feature is the inlaid mother of pearl heel, which harks back to vintage styles, along with the shoe clips she uses. She does not make bespoke lasts, but aims to make the shoes comfortable and well-fitting through design alterations.
£695
£460
£275
Leather & Crystal
Leather & Mother of pearl
Leather & Suede
Customer
Service
Mainly brides, ageing from late 20's to late 30's, but her reasonable heel heights and feminine aesthetic is liked by a wide age range.
Will make a completely bespoke design on an existing last, or an existing design in a different colour. She prides herself on her personal relationship with customers, which is reflected in her glowing recommendations.
"Your shoes made my outfit and I can't thank you enough. EVERY single person at my wedding commented on my beautiful shoes and I made sure I told them where they were from, and you do more than just bridal too..."Recommendation on website
Currently has 14 UK stockists, which are all bridal boutiques. Her global representation is small with 1 stockist in Rotterdam, and Denmark. although this is understandable as she is still a little known designer.
This level of personal service is something that Tuesday Smtih should aim to replicate, as it will help to build a strong reputation and customer loyalty.
Online - Strong, reflects the brand style. - Easy to navigate, online shop small ready-to-wear collection. - Imagery is limited, only one view per shoe.
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Beatrix Ong Competing in Price & Style
'Female without being cloyingly feminine, grown up without being tame, sexy without being obvious, classic without lacking edge'
Beatrix Ong is Tuesday Smith's main competitor, in terms of style, price and quality.
USP
Brand & Products
Quality and luxurious design, for a fairer price. Her consistent style and passion for craftsmanship has helped build her strong reputation, and critical acclaim.
London based, her passion is for elegance in design, quality and balance, which forms her business and design mantra. She aims to design distinctive but wearable shoes. Heel heights are conservative. Collaborations to create limited edition shoeboxes show her passion for attention to even the smallest details.
"We listen to our customers, and know that they want more flat pumps and mid-height shoes in the range, so Beatrix is taking this on board for next season" Iinterview with Beatrix Ong store manager, see Appendix H
£635
£295
£195
Calf Leather
Patent Calf Leather
Glitter Lace & Leather
Customer
"Our customer is usually in their late 20s or early 30s, but we also have alot of women in their late 40s who shop here. "They are usually professional women, looking for simple style. They definately appreciate sophistication too. "Comfort, quality and wearable shoes is what our lady is looking to buy". Iinterview with Beatrix Ong store manager, see Appendix H
Although Beatrix Ong has a strong number of stockists both internationally and in the UK, it appears that care has been taken to avoid market saturation, and retain brand exclusivity.
"Our bestseller is the 'Jefferson' boot, our customers like how it flatters the leg because the back is completely elastciated"
This should be an important consideration for Tuesday Smith when expanding the brand, especially considering the lower price range.
Online - Beautifully presented, efficient online shop. - Easy to navigate, although images are limited, this lets down the site. - Information on materials is poor.
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Penelope Chilvers Competing in Price, Style & Concept
'Embracing fashion but not conforming to the idea of a throwaway wardrobe'
USP
Brand & Products
The range is based upon her passion for craftsmanship, aimimg to design timeless, stylish pieces to be treasured, like Tuesday Smith. Chilvers' now provides an online bespoke service.
Made in Spain, Chilvers strives for quality and to support local craft. Known for her practical, stylish boots, and her bestselling 'Dandy' slipper, which is now offered with monogramming.
Her style is timeless, fashionable yet modern. Her aesthetic is never fussy, always consistent and very wearable.
Online - Simple but effective - Promotes the designers creative past - Online shop provides excellent product information and imagery
£499
£286
£245
Leather
Corduroy & Wood
Embroidered Velvet
Service Frequently in the press is the new online monogramming service. Prices start at ÂŁ245 which is relatively cheap for the quality and service being provided.
Customer Age ranges from late 20's to 60+ as Chilvers' simple style transcends trend and age. She has gained popularity after Catherine Middleton, Cate Blanchett and Claudia Schiffer wore her boots.
A very large number of stockists; 80 globally, including Liberty, Selfridges and Harrods in the UK. Her 'British' image has encouraged great interest from overseas. This could also be a possibility for Tuesday Smith in the future, but the British market must be the immediate focus.
32
Rupert Sanderson Competing in Style
'Less is more'
USP
Brand & Products
Synonymous with high quality and feminine design, this has earned a strong international reputation.
Made in Italy, the collection reflects his passion for detail and quality, but is also very British, shown through his choice to name every shoe after a Daffodil. Inspired by the sensual feeling of the materials he uses, the curves of the lasts and heels, aiming to lengthen a woman's leg, accentuating its shape.
Online - A practically perfect website. - Considered and efficient. - The online shop sells his entire collection, displaying it well.
£945
£625
£375
Leather
Leather & Mesh
Patent Leather
Customer Celebrity fans are constantly growing in number, with Kate Middleton encouraging sbooming sales. Professional women ageing from 25 to mid 50. They are stylish, sophisticated, who buy investment pieces rather than following trends.
Has kept a high level of exclusivity to his label, through stocking in only the most exclusive locations. He currently has two London boutiques, one in Paris, and Hong Kong. Other stockists are luxury online companies, such as mytheresa.com, and department stores such as Harrods. Obviously has ambitions to open more standalone boutiques, to keep his brand tightly controlled, and very exclusive.
34
Alexandre Birman Competing in Price & Concept
'Exotic & intricate'
USP
Brand & Products
A Brazilian designer, inspired by glamour and exotic materials. Birman also provides a custom service.
Made in Brazil, the shoes are priced below competitors. The designer is inspired by exotic femininity and uses unusual materials, like python.
Online - Easy to use, good information - Visually interesting, with videos showing his shoemaking team at work. - Translation to English is difficult to understand,
£400
£360
£240
Suede & Python
Suede, Ostrich & Metal
Python
Customer
Service
She is stylish, and an exhibitionist, loves unusual design details, and dresses to impress. Kate Hudson and Olivia Palermo are fans of the designer, and represent his customer type.
Now offers a bespoke service in a selection of his stand-alone boutiques, enhancing exclusivity. Bespoke lasts can be made, or customers can opt to choose their own colours and materials, similar to the service Tuesday Smith intend to provide.
Stocked widely throughout his native Brazil and South America, and also gaining a large following throughout the UK and Europe, aided by celebrity placements. Online, Net-A-Porter now stocks the brand, and Selfridges in London hosts a mini boutique. This has kept brand excluisvity high in the UK and Europe, unlike Brazil.
36
Marc by Marc Jacobs Competing in Price & Style
Products
Customer
Reflect the designer's quirky style, but styles are easier to wear.
Trendy, stylish women, usually aged between 20 and 35.
Unusual materials are used, such as the colour wash patent below center, with metal hardware giving designs edge.
Availability A selection are available from Marc Jacobs online, and select Marc Jacobs boutiques, which are located globally.
Marc by Marc Jacobs can be considered a competitor to the Tuesday Smith brand because of the lower price banding, although it is important to remember that the two brands have very different values and styles.
£590
£395
£220
Leather & Corduroy
Patent Leather & Metal
Printed Ponyskin
37
See by Chloe Competing in Price
Brand & Products
Customer
See by Chloe has a much lower price tag than the catwalk Chloe range with a younger and quirkier aesthetic.
She can be as young as 18, but is mainly aged between 22 and 40, quirky in style.
More practical materials are used with a rougher edge; worn-effect leathers and bolder shapes.
Availability Not available to buy on Chloe's website, but is stocked by well-known retailers such as Net-A-Porter in the UK and SAKS in the USA.
The price range of the brand is very similar to Tuesday Smith, although the design style is quirkier, making the two indirect competitors.
£355
£295
£220
Textured Leather
Leather & Shearling
Leather, Grosgrain & Crystal
38
39
The Range Price Structures Range Structure & Pricing Product Costing Product Life-Cycle & Distribution Channels Web Design Packaging
40
Competitor Price Structures £1,000! £900! £800! £700! Rupert Sanderson!
£600!
Alexandre Birman! £500!
Beatrix Ong! Penelope Chilvers!
£400!
Marc by Marc Jacobs! Tuesday Smith!
£300! £200! £100! £0!
Flat Pump! Flat Shoe! Low Court! High Court! High Ankle Flat Knee High Knee Boot! Boot! Boot!
Analysing the price structure of competitor's ranges has been a useful exercise. The black line shows the proposed level of the Tuesday Smith range from cheapest to most expensive. Beatrix Ong can be considered the closest competitor in terms of price, but also in style and quality.
Range Structure & Pricing £370 to £425 ( up to £475 custom) 6 in range
This pyramid shows the styles breakdown of the range, with the number of styles per price category.
£300 to £370 ( up to £430 custom) 4 in range £195 to £300 (up to £355 custom) 2 in range
41
Last & Height
Style
Size Range
Standard Colourways
Est. Custom Price
No. In Range
36 to 42
Est. Standard Price £195
7mm
Flat slip-on pump
3
From £245
1
20mm
Full lace-up shoe
36 to 42
£250
2
From £310
1
20mm
Knee High Boot
36 to 42
£370
2
From £430
1
50mm
Court Shoe
36 to 42
£335
3
From £395
2
50mm
Ankle Boot
36 to 42
£370
2
From £430
1
85mm
Court Shoe (1 Statement)
36 to 41
£380
3
From £440
2
85mm
Closed Toe Statement Sandal
36 to 41
£385
3
From £435
1
85mm
Closed Shoe
36 to 41
£390
2
From £445
2
85mm
Knee High Boot
36 to 41
£425
2
From £475
1
The above is a guide to the proposed AW 12/13 range, with price structure and style breakdown. The choices of lasts have been informed through trend research, but they are classic shapes which fit with the brand style ethos. Last Ref.1470 85mm
Last Ref.1641 20mm
Last Ref.1393 50mm
42
Last Ref.1641 7mm
Product Costing
The above shows an estimated costing per pair, but it must be considered that number may vary depending on materials, simplicity of design and availability of components. 43
Product Life-Cycle
Distribution Channels
The above charts show the proposed life-cycle of the range. It is important to remember that the cycle will alter as the brand grows, with new considerations if overseas stockists are gained.
Web Design Online presence is more important than ever, and the online industry is continually growing. Effective web design must be a priority for Tuesday Smith, and the custom section must function well.
Rupert Sanderson's simple layout shown left is a good example, although it's style is slightly monotone and uninteresting without any use of colour.
Anya Hindmarch's 'Anya Loves' section is an insight into the designer's life and interests, and helping the brand to feel more personal. This would be a useful feature to help build interest in the Tuesday Smith brand, encouraging customers to revisit the site regularly, capturing their attention with new products.
The Tuesday Smith website preliminary design follows a classic layout, for ease of use. Further development is needed for the online shop. Like Anya Hindmarch, there is also an 'our world' section, which should be updated regularly with likes and inspirations, provide a continual source of interest to customers. 45
Product Concept Design Concept & Moodboard Details Board Colour Board
A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis
Evaluation Range & Concept Summary Report Conclusion
46
Design Concept & Moodboard
Researching Italy’s rich heritage in art, architecture and has linked with personal interest in geometric pattern. Discovering new ways of applying traditional methods, combined with classic design that speaks of ageless style, a fresh but beautiful outcome will be produced. Trends may be referenced in a minimal way, but designing to suit the customer is more important.
47
Details Board
Details are geometric, but explore 3D. Combining understated details with excess, with consideration. See sketchbook for inspiration research, experimentation and materials. 48
Colour Board
The palette incorporates A/W 12/13 trends, mainly the tones on page 51, while considering more classic tones, and what the customer would wear. 49
Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 Trend Analysis Mid-Tones & Darks Brights & Natural Mid-Tones Pastels Pales, Neutrals & Dusty Textures Modern Pattern Textured Metallics Minimal, Neutral Otherworld, Toe Shapes The Cut-Out Lace-Up Boot Pull-On Straight Boot, Chelsea Boot Strapping, Covered Hardware Pearlised, Marbled Hardware Statement & Block Heels, Using The Trends
50
Mid-Tones & Darks
'Colour trends showed a preference for caramel and beige nuances in brown, but the darker and more intense red shades, typical of the winter season, were also to be seen, in addition to classic navy blue and dark green: warm tones and concise shades...' Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends
51
Brights & Natural Mid-Tones
52
Pastels
Pales, Neturals & Dusty Textures
WGSN
WGSN
54
Modern Pattern
55
Textured Metallics
WGSN
WGSN
'We recall tones of beige and light brown enriched with gold or bronze laminated effects to recreate a special matt-metallic effect..' Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends 56
Minimal, Neutral
57
Otherworld
Toe Shapes
58
The Cut-Out
WGSN
59
Lace-Up Boot
WGSN
60
Pull-On Straight Boot WGSN
Chelsea Boot WGSN
Strapping
Covered Hardware
62
Pearlised, Marbled Hardware
Hardware Trends
63
Alaia A/W 11/12
Statement & Block Heels
Using The Trends As prior research revealed, the customer is not overly interested in trends. Covered and pearlised hardware is an easy yet subtle way of keeping on-trend but not phasing the customer. The chelsea, lace-up and pull-on boots can be used as they will remain key styles. The cutout and statement heel trend could also be referenced, but in a simple way. Toe shapes are varied but the almond and oval styles chosen (p42) are classic, and will not date easily. The dark and mid-tone palette appeals, as such tones are most likely to transcend seasonal trends.
64
Range & Concept Summary Product British designed and produced Off-the-rack or custom with a choice 6 materials at first, and initialling or a handwritten message A new craft technique each season, with new applications Classic silhouettes, with interesting details Packaged and delivered with the environment in mind
⋅ ⋅
⋅ ⋅ ⋅
Place ⋅ ⋅
The custom and off-the-shelf range available on tuesdaysmith.co.uk Aiming to be stocked in UK boutiques and online, with department stores as a distant aim
⋅
Price ⋅ ⋅
From £195 to £425 (£245 to £475 custom) Lower than other luxury brands such as Rupert Sanderson, inline with Beatrix Ong for example
Promotion ⋅ ⋅
⋅ ⋅ ⋅ ⋅ Customer ⋅ ⋅ ⋅ ⋅ ⋅
Age 22 to 60, Average age 36 Stylish but not trend focused Prioritise quality, comfort and interesting details Want a product that will last, and not date Well-off but consider value when they buy
Aiming to be listed on frombritainwithlove.co.uk etc. Aiming to be featured in magazines Grazia, Elle, and Marie Claire, with readers aged 22 to 55 (the brand’s target market) A well-designed website, to boost profile Regular updates and newsletter to customers Strong social-networking presence Aiming to collaborate with British companies, for greater exposure
Production ⋅ ⋅
⋅
⋅
⋅
Supporting British craft, and creating jobs in the UK Produced solely in the UK, using British materials and components wherever possible Creating jobs through apprenticeships, educating in craft, keeping skills alive in the UK Custom products personalised in separate custom workshop, to cope with smaller orders Environment issues must be considered during production, packaging and delivery
This table summarises the basis of the concept, clarifying it's key facets. This will be a ! useful reference tool, and should be seen as a guideline to the brand.
The above outlines how the Tuesday Smith online custom service would operate. It is quite similar to Upper Street's method, but with fewer colour choices, because of cost, though the number could be increased in the future. Customers can also personalise an existing design with their own initials. 65
Report Conclusion
USP : Focusing on the customer, not the brand. Custom choices for an individual, special product. Promoting and protecting British craft, creating jobs and opportunities. Quality, classic but stylish, wearable.
The research that has been conducted, both primary and secondary has exposed key areas where development should continue. It is now clear who the Tuesday Smith customer is, and that there is support and interest in the concept. Supporting British craft is an opportunity in the market, and should be promoted as such. Establishing a strong brand identity can be continued as design and selection takes place, and through the realisation and placement of the products. As the type of custom service being offered differentiates the brand from it's competitors, a strong online capability must allow the service to run efficiently, and must be promoted as unique to the market. The design and selection process must consider the customer and their needs, ensuring the aesthetic of the range fits the brand and it's market. Research and findings should be utilised sensibly and intelligently to help ensure the brand is prepared and protected during it's difficult first stages, especially during such difficult economic times. Information gathered should also help to create an elegant range, in a way that is true to the brand's ethos and values.
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67
Appendices A
Full PESTLE Analysis
B
Primary Consumer Questionnaire & Results
C
Secondary Consumer Questionnaires
D
Visual Consumer Research
E
Extensive Market Mapping
F
Competitor Comparison Table
G
Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview
H
Beatrix Ong Interview
I
Location
J
Continued A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis
K
Retail Positioning
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Appendix A
Full PESTEL Analysis
Setting up a business can be difficult at any time, especially during a recession. The wider environmet has been thoroughly ainvestigated through a PESTEL analysis.
Political Since the coalition government came into power in 2010, there have been many changes to the way the country is being run, and its future outlook. Firstly, university tuition fees have been increased to £9000 per year, which has forced many people to reconsider applying to degree courses, and change their spending and saving patterns in order to afford the extra cost. We have experienced cuts throughout the public service sector, with most notable changes to the benefits system. There has since been widespread public unrest, with the riots in many UK towns and cities in August, which many attributed to anger stemming from the cuts. Millions of pounds worth of damage was caused, and retailers struggled to repair stores and replace stock quickly. Although there have been cuts across many government departments, spending in education has been increased. It is now easier for companies to take on apprentices as explained in-depth on page 9 which is advantageous to Tuesday Smith’s goals.
‘The government has to “boost the human capital of our country”, which it is doing by offering more apprenticeships and increasing the number of university places’ Source: BBC News Online
Economical The pound is now very weak against many currencies including the US Dollar, and the Euro, meaning Britain is now becoming a more attractive shopping destination for many tourists. This is a benefit for many British companies, who have lost many UK customers due to the credit crunch. The Chinese, and Russian economies are booming, and London’s high-end stores continue to be filled with both nationalities. The VAT increase of 2010 to 20% has not affected retail very noticeably, but of course manufacturers have been hit harder, trying to keep retail pricing low, but with costs in all areas rising, as reported by Mintel:
‘Most retailers have already increased clothes prices as a result of soaring prices in areas such as cotton, labour, energy and transport.’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Lifestyles UK May 2011 Interest rates areat an all time low, but lending has become extremely difficult with banks feeling reluctant to invest. This has caused a reduction business start-ups, and an increase in companies filing for bankrupcy, with Woolworths and MFI as high profile examples. It has also become much more difficult to get a mortgage, which has meant that many would-be first-time buyers are continuing to rent, which is another reason for reduced spending on goods and services. Job losses, lending and wage cuts have meant many people have reconsidered their lifestyle spending choices. The fashion and footwear industry has been affected by these changes with many people choosing to buy less often. Although, this does not necessarily mean that a cheaper option is always favoured, with many choosing an investment buying strategy, as reported by Mintel.
‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Lifestyles UK May 2011
Although the economic outlook is fairly bleak, this consumer trend gives an indication that the concept of providing quality British footwear, could take advantage of this consumer trend, if implemented in the correct way, in terms of the product itself and pricing strategy.
Social
The ageing population is an important social factor that will affect retail in a significant way.
‘A declining teen and young adult population is bad news for value fashion retailers such as Primark and New Look.’ Source: Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011 The market for cheap, fast fashion will decline with the teen population, with more demand for higher quality, more classic garments and accessories that will last longer. Older shoppers are also generally less trend-focused, and consider comfort as a higher priority.
‘Middle of the road retailers such as Clarks stand to benefit from and older population’ Source: Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011
The ageing population could be a beneficial factor for Tuesday Smith, as it will mean an increase in the call for quality classic footwear. Another social factor that has dramatically affected fashion retailers during the past year is the Royal Wedding in April, and the growing popularity of the Duchess of Cambridge since the event. Clothing and footwear choices of Catherine and Pippa Middleton have completely sold out on many occasions, giving record sales boosts to high-end high-street brands such as Hobbs and Whistles. Their fashion choices have encouraged interest in British brands at home, and from foreign customers. The 2012 Olympics will also bring new business to London and increased interest in British companies. This must be taken advantage of, through ensuring the business is promoted as clearly and widely as possible, to the visiting international audience, which could lead to overseas popularity.
Technological The Internet has become cheaper to have at home, quicker and more widely used, which has had a great impact on retailing and E-Commerce.
‘Broadband penetration is now at just under 70% of the population’ Source: Mintel – E-Commerce Europe 2010
Mintel also reports that online retailing will grow to 45% of total UK sales within the next 4 years. It is therefore imperative for any brand, especially a new retailer to priotitise online selling. An Internet presence is now expected, and online selling is a very cheap method of retailing. Technological advances such as the iPad and Smart Phone, have made online shopping even more accessible. Brands have been able to cheaply create ‘Apps’ which add a new level of interaction to the retail experience. Social networking, such as Facebook and Twitter is a quick way of communicating information such as new product launches or special promotions to thousands of people at once. Blogs, with their dedicated followers, have also become as important as magazine press in the fashion industry. A blogger's opinion can have a hugh impact on a brand's popularity and is great free publicity. In manufacturing, smart materials are slowly becoming cheaper and more frequently used, but Rapid Prototyping is having the greatest influence. It is a very efficient and cheap way of producing, saving money and resources, although it will be many years before the technology is cheap enough to be widely used. RFID tagging is also beginning to have an impact on retail, as a new way of tagging products, reducing theft and saving money.
70
Legal ‘Legislation that affects the business environment of the UK has been created and amended in such a way that the interests of investors are always given priority. This is evident from the fact that domestic and foreign players have shown a continuous commitment towards investing in the country.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report The quote shown is a very good summary of the effects the legal system has on business. Although UK banks are less willing to lend, interest from UK and foreign investors remains strong and the government continues to realise this. VAT free shopping also continues to make Britain a more attractive shopping destination for foreigners.
‘Small companies will qualify for tax breaks amounting to 200% of the expenditure on R&D, up from 175%.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report The above incentive is good news for small companies, and may continue to boost business start-ups despite the recession.
Environmental The cost of fuel, and raw materials has continued to soar, which has affected retail in almost every area. Products have become more expensive to produce and deliver, meaning that retailers have been forced to raise prices. Many companies have invested in ‘green’ measures such as solar power, and also hybrid vehicles, which are becoming more popular and helping to reduce the country’s emissions.
‘Air pollution in London is the highest in the UK and the country as a whole is among the worst in terms of air pollution.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report The government has also waived road tax and congestion charging on such vehicles, meaning that they are also helping individuals and businesses to save money. The government is also introducing measures to help individuals to produce their own electricity, through methods such as solar and wind power. This will all go some way in helping to reduce the UK’s carbon output, which has become more important than ever since the UK signed the Kyoto agreement in 2005. Under the agreement, if emissions are not reduced by 50% by 2025, the UK will be fined £300 million.
‘The UK will endeavour to reduce its emissions of greenhouse gases by 50% compared with 1990 levels by 2025.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report Recycling has now become heavily encouraged across the UK, and many companies have implemented staff benefits in return for recycling. It has also become important for retailers to show their efforts to become more environmentally conscious. Reducing the use of plastic carrier bags is an example of this. Many shops have begun to charge for bags, meaning that many customers are choosing to buy and reuse longer lasting canvas bags. This is an option for Tuesday Smith, although may be too expensive to start with.
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Appendix B
Primary Consumer Questionnaire & Results
Web Address : http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/YM75Z9N
73
Appendix C
Secondary Consumer Questionnaire & Results
Although 20 Questionnaires were completed, the most useful and noticable results have been shown to gie an overview of the types of answers that were given.
74
75
76
77
78
79
Appendix D Visual Consumer Research Shown are photographs taken on the streets of London that helped inspire and inform the construction of the consumer profiles shown on pages 19, 20 & 21.
80
Appendix E
Extensive Market Mapping
Entire Market Mapping
Custom/Bespoke Market Mapping The number of brands that are operating at the classic/fashiobale level in the custom market is very smsll, indicating a gap in the market.
The maps shown here have helped to establish where there is a gap in the market, along with who the brand's competitors are. Keeping the design style between classic and trend lead ensures the brand fulfills it's customers want. There are few brand's operating in this area of the market at the same price level currently, with Beatrix Ong being the closest competitor.
Appendix F Brand
Competitor Comparison Table
Range Style
Product
-Online custom women’s retailer, offering customers a choice of styles, colours and materials
Price
Customer
Store(s)
E-Commerce
£115 for flats £210 for ankle boots
-From 18 to 60+ -Women who are looking for something unusual, or to match an outfit
Not Applicable
-Online only -Quite basic website -Unrealistic images of shoes -Easy to use, but unattractive graphics
£230 for a court £265 for platform court £35 for luxury materials
-From 18 to 60+, majority 28 to 35, and brides! -Fashionable women who are looking to follow a trend, or match an outfit
Not Applicable But Upper Street will help small boutiques and designers to create their own ranges.
-Online only -Easy to use but impressive website -CGI images of shoes, very realistic, but can only see one angle
Prices start at £1645
-Main age from 35 to 50+ -Love to be involved in design process -Investment buys mixed with designer and high street
A bespoke shoemaker so no store, but has just started a ready to wear collection, available to order directly from her.
-Interesting wesbite, well designed. -Imagery is clear and a lot of it -Cannot order online as yet
Prices start at £2690 + VAT for a simple classic style
-Mainly men, age range from 35 to 80+ -Very wealthy, shop for quality bespoke -Investment buyers, wear forever -Men and women, age range from 35 to 80+ -Mainly people with medical consitions, or awkward feet -Investment purchasers -Mainly men, age range from 25 to 50 -Interested in British design -More fashion conscious, mix with designer and high street
Lobb’s store is on Jermyn Street London, a very traditional area, near Saville row, a destination store. Sell some readymade shoes and accessories here. Near Paddington, a destination store, only known to regular customers. Very traditional interior. Sell some ready made here.
-Simple website, cannot order online -Basic information and poor imagery -Not important for Lobbs to have an online presence
Main shop on Jermyn Street, amongst other traditional English brands. Traditional décor, a destination store, appeals to tourists too.
-Provides company information -Easy to use -Simply designed -Cannot buy online
Prices start at £1600 for a bespoke shoe and lasts
-Age range from 35 to 60+ -More fashion conscious, mix with designer and high street
Silvia does not have a store or showroom, as the service is bespoke, she visits clients and designs with them
-Shows product and company information -Some product imagery -Poorly designed, not easy to navigate -Cannot shop online
Bespoke start at £480 Ready to wear start at £195
-Mainly fashion conscious brides, looking for personal touches, and detail -Age range 28 to 45
Freya has a small showroom in Islington, London, but is also stocked in 15 bridal boutiques across the UK, Europe and USA
-Beautiful website in company colours -Small product range available to buy online -Gives info, and imagery of bespoke products.
Bespoke (from a choice of lasts) starts at £350
-Women who love colour and pattern. -Age 25 to 50 -Eccentric style -Love to own something different
Hetty has 12 stockists including 1 in Japan and Italy. She visits bespoke clients, to design and fit shoes with them.
-Plain website, does not fit brand -Difficult to use -Cannot buy online -Basic imagery of products.
Handmade in China -Online ‘bespoke’ women’s shoe retailer -Customer chooses design, colour and fabrics
Handmade in China -Bespoke women’s shoemaker -Artistic, flamboyant designs -Has started a small ready to wear collection
Handmade in the UK
-Traditional handmade men’s and women’s shoemaker
Handmade in the UK -London based handmade mens and womens shoes -Specialise in awkward feet and orthotic footwear -Very traditional styles
Start at £1595
Handmade in the UK
-Traditional men’s and women’s -Bespoke, made to order, and ready to wear
Bespoke start at £1100 Made to order start at £525 Handmade in the UK
-Womens bespoke shoe maker -Unusual designs, stand-out colours and materials with embellishments Handmade in UK -Bespoke (not the last) women’s and wedding footwear -Also has a small ready to wear collection
Handmade in the UK
-Bespoke (not the last) women’s and ready to wear -Uses kimono fabric for individual, colourful designs Handmade in the UK
82
-Provides company information -Imagery is basic -Online presence is unimportant, the company survives through word of mouth reputation
-Womens luxury designer, signature ‘island’ platform -Kitsch, retro inspired designs -Collaborates with: Victoria Beckham, Matthew Williamson
Start at £485 for flats Most popular style ‘Dolly’ (left) costs £608
-Age range 18 to 35 -Trend followers -Shop at stores such as Prada and MiuMiu -Celebrity fans include Sarah Jessica Parker, and Emma Watson.
One small store on Maddox Street, off Bond Street, amongst other small boutiques. With over 50 other stockists globally. Retro inspired décor.
-Well designed website -Entire range sold online -Gives detailed company info
Average price £595, prices start at £475 for flats
-Age range 25 to 35 -Buy directional designers -Shop at stores such as Jil Sander and Balenciaga
One store on Mount Street London, near to designers such as Smythson and Balenciaga. Modern interior that reflects shoes.
-Beautiful website in company colours -Cannot buy online which puts Kirkwood behind competitors -Gives info, and imagery of bespoke products.
Prices start at £375 for flats, up to £785 for boots
-Age range from 25 to 50 -Career women -Enjoy classics but with a twist -Buy quality brands.
4 standalone stores, 2 in London, 1 in Paris and 1 in Hong Kong. All reflect Sanderson’s simplistic, feminine aesthetic.
-Well designed website in company colours -Online store with international courier delivery.
Average price £415 Debenhams range starts at £45 to £110 for boots
-Age range 25 to 45 -Buy edgier independent designers. -Like unusual materials.
No store at the moment and no stockists currently as Kelsey did not produce a collection this season
-Website is not easy to use, limited information. -Difficult to see images of products.
Prices range from £315 for a sandal, to £650 for boots
-Age range 25 to 40 -Like to stand out. -Follow trends and buy brands such as Dominic Jones and Preen.
Over 20 stockists globally and online, no standalone store at the moment.
-Simple website but effective design. -Shoes clearly shown. -Cannot buy online which puts Camilla behind competitors. -Basic company info.
Range from £240 for pumps, to £500 for boots
-Age 27 to 40 -Feminine standout style -Buy designers such as Roberto Cavalli
Over 30 stores & stockists globally, with more than half in Brazil, his native country. Stocked in Selfridges & Neta-porter
-Website is difficult to understand, as it has been translated -Good videos of designer and team at work -Interesting and interactive
From £705 for sandals to £1050 for boots
-Age range from 28 to 45 -A LOT of disposable income -Investment buyer who wants to stand out and buy very luxurious items
Stocked in 11 countries, no current standalone store. USA and Italy are main market
-Cannot buy online as yet -Easy to navigate but not very interactive -Basic information
-Uses fabrics a lot -Complicated designs with buckles and straps -Quirky, kitsch edge
£455 for flat pumps, to £1415 for embellish ed sandal
-From 23 to 45, wide age range, as designs on offer are diverse. -Likes brandnames, and quirky style
Stocked in 17 countries, with the USA as her main market, inc. Neiman Marcus & Bergdorf. No stores of own yet.
-Very interesting website, with videos and a lot of imagery -Can buy online but only a very small number of styles
- High end women’ shoes - Simple shapes with interesting materials - Muted colour palette - Use of embellishements like diamantes to enhance plain styles
£197 for flat ballet pumps, to £635 for knee high heel boots
-Age range 28 to 50 -Classic dressers, who love to dress up with accessories -Shop high end high street like Reiss but also designers Sandro & See by Chloe
11 UK stockists, 6 of which are in London, 8 global stockists. 2 London stores, that both strongly fit her aesthetic, amongst small boutiques.
-Simple website, gives clear information -E-boutique sells large proportion of range -Imagery of shoes is limited to one angle, which makes it difficult for shoppers
-Luxury women’s designer -Modern silhouettes -Offers made to order in crocodile -Collaborates with designers Rodarte & Erdem
Made in Italy
Made in Italy
-Luxury women’s shoes -Feminine designs and materials -Modern twist on classic shapes Made in Italy -Luxury women’s shoes -Unusual materials, edge shapes -Now has an affordable range with Debenhams -Luxury women’s shoes -Muted colourings but standout architectural silhouettes. -Signature serrated soles. -Exotic materials, python, ostrich etc -Unusual silhouette, almost awkward -Chunky but high heels, use of metal (shown right) -Custom colours & design available in some stores -Very unusal style, with emphasis on shapes -Expensive materials used, stingray and python -Complicated constructions
Made in Italy
Made in China
Made in Brazil
Made in Italy
Made in Italy
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-Use plain materials a lot -Wood and crepe used in most collections
From £255 for flats, to £390 for high boots
-Age range 20 to 35 -Quirky style, with unusual details -Buy unusual brands like Clements Ribiero, and Missoni
Stocked in most Chloe stores, also in some high end dept. stores
-Good
-Unusual finishes of materials, such as ink wash patent -Strong heels, and metal used
£250 for ballet pumps, to £590 for heeled knee high boots
-Age range 25 to 40 -Quirky style, quite trend focused. -Buy brands like MiuMiu and Sandro
Stocked in most Marc Jacobs stores, of which there are many around the world. Mainly in the USA
-Fantastic website, focusing on the designer -Entire collection available to buy online, shipping worldwide
-Very punky edge, studs and cerrated soles used throughout range -Dark colourings and tough materials
£215 for ballet flats, to £370 for heeled ankle boots
-Age 20 to mid thirties -Punky strong style, -Wear dark colours, and strong shapes -Buy Vivienne Westwood, Acne
Stocked in select dept. stores and boutiques, but also in a selection of his larger standalone stores
-Conceptual website, paying high attention to designers shows -Cannot buy McQ online yet -A lot of images and videos but poor info
-Delicate shapes -Muted colour palette -Classic shapes with unusual textures and cut-out patterns
£110 for wellies, to £480 for knee high heel boots
-Age range from 25 to 60, diverse product style can appeal to many ages -Buy premium and low designer, simple style
Kors has hundreds of stores globally, with many stocking this range, along with dept. stores
-Efficient website typical of such a large brand -Can buy selection of designs online -Good stockists info
-Dark colours and metallics -Simple shapes with bold heels or accessories
From £80 for wellies, to £260 for leather ankle boots
-Young thirties or early 20’s -Buy designer and high street, classic styling with bold accessories
Stocked in many department stores and Donna Karen standalones. Main market is USA, but also Middle East
-Easy to use -Entire collection easy to shop online -Worldwide shipping -Good info and styling imagery
-Traditional womens and mens shoes. -New edgier versions on classic styles, as well as traditional designs. -Reinvents classics each season in new colours/materials. -Owned by PRADA.
Prices range from £245 to £370
-Age range 25 to 50 -Like to buy classic -British brands. -Buy modern classics like Church’s new studded brogues.
40 stores in 9 countries. All fit the company aesthetic and are smart, traditionally fitted out. Positioned in upmarket areas amongst suiting and designer shops.
-Simple website, with very limited number of product images. -Cannot buy online, and does not give information of stockists other than standalone stores.
Prices range from £170 to £475 for long boots
-Age range 30 to 50 -Buy British -Career women -Buy classic with unusual detail -Not usually trend followers
Stores in 23 countries with 18 shops in the UK. British aesthetic, to fit the Paul Smith ‘look’
-Simple website but easy to navigate -Online shopping but product range is limited. -More images of products needed.
Average price is £119, long boots can go up to £275
-Age range 18 to 60+ -Buy classic shoes that will last -Trust the brand’s reputation for quality
43 stores in the UK, with 13 in London. Positioned amongst other high-end high street and designer stores, such as Fenwicks, who are a stockist.
-Poor website with limited information and imagery. -Cannot buy online which is unusual for the price range of the company
-Women’s and men’s apparel and accessories retailer. -Simple classic design, with unusual detail. -Use of Paul Smith stripe pattern throughout range. -High end high street, British company -Classic designs, but range now includes more fashionable pieces -Reinvents classics each season in new colours/materials
Made in the UK and Italy
Made in Italy & Spain
Made in Italy
The comp-shop table has been invaluable in helping to analyse who Tuesday Smith's direct and indirect competitors are in terms of style and price. Custom and bespoke brands have been investigated, along with designer and high-street. It has been determined that it is important for the brand to appeal to a range of ages, widening the product's appeal, which is especially important during a recession. Putting focus on the development of a strong online presence must be taken into account, in a similar way to Rupert Sanderson and DKNY, as it is now expected that a brand provides online shopping facilities. Also, having a clear brand image and style is important in gaining recognition from customers, especially for a new brand. 84
Appendix G
Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview
Interview Conducted October 22nd with Codie, Store Manager at Anya Hindmarch Bespoke, Pont Street Who is the A.H.B customer? "Both men and women, they dont worry about how much things cost usually, but they want to get something special. I think luxury consumers are a bit fed up of having the same as everyone else, even though they spend alot. It's really about the products and the quality,and I think our customers recognise that. There are alot of customers buying presents, men ordering personalised diaries for their wives, it's a really lovely original gift. Most of the customers are Anya fan's, or have read about the shop, we don't get many passers buy wandering in as we're on quite a quiet street." Where are the products produced? "Anya tries to have as much of the bespoke products make in England, but some of the more special items, like the 'ultimate' boxes have to be made abroad because there just isn't the craftsmandship here. They're made in Florence, but with a very small family company, so it's still very focused on skill and detail." What is special about the range? "We have an original leather called 'London Grain' which is only available in the bespoke range, making it a little bit more luxurious, but it's really all about the products being personal. You can have your initials stamped, or a message or the design can be changed with extra pockets or compartments. The made-to-measure wallet service is really special because I don't think anyone else offers anything like it, it's basially designed 100% for the client, exactly as they want it." Which styles sell best? "The iPad cases are starting to do really well as more people are buying tablets nowadays, but the wallets do amazingly too because they're getting exactly what they want. Everything does well though, because we get Anya fan's who come in for something that little bit special, or for a present."
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Appendix H
Beatrix Ong Interview
Interview Conducted October 30th with Alice, Store Manager at Newburgh Street Store Who do you think the Beatrix Ong customer is? "They are usually young professionals, in their late 20s or early 30s, but the customer range goes up to late 40s. About half of the women come here already knowing what they want, or they have bought Beatrix's shoes before, but we also get about the same amount of customers who just walk past and have never heard of the brand, which I think is quite good for spreading the word." What is the style of the customer? "They appreciate elegant lines, and simple design. They are sophisticated women, they enjoy art and culture, and I suppose those interests carry on when they come into the shop" What are they looking for in the collection? "They definately want the shoes to be comfortable, and we get alot of comments about that. They want them to last, and they notice that our quality is better than alot of other brands who sell at the same sort of price levels." Which styles sell best? "The Jefferson boot is the best seller, we bring it back every year. Our customers like the elasticated back, because it means the boots always fit well and are comfortable around the calf, I think alot of women nowadays have problems finding longer boots that fit their leg properly" What do the customers want that the brand is maybe not providing at the moment? "Alot of ladies complain about the shoes being too high, even though our styles are mostly lower than alot of the other designers. If you are going to sell to a woman in her 40s, they dont want to be wearing a 4 inch heel, or even a 3 inch is difficult. If they want to wear them all day, they just arent comfortable and they dont want to put up with the pain like young girls! They want more plain pumps too, because alot of them take a pair in their bag to work and swap from their heels."
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Best Seller : Jefferson Boot ÂŁ520
Appendix I
Location
As a small design company, office location needs to be appropriate to the size of the brand. Cockpit Arts in Holborn, and also Deptford is a cluster space of studios home to 165 designer-makers. Charity funded, Cockpit Arts provides ongoing business support and advice for it's residents, and hosts open-studio evenings where the public are invited to see the designers at work and buy their products. Being located amongst other creative people would be very inspirational, and open up opportunities for collaborations. Being involved with Cockpit also boosts publicity for the designers, as the charity is regularly involved with London Design Week, and industry competitions.
Approximate Monthly Costing Rent is very reasonable for central London, at £229.83 per month for 100ft2 including water, heating and servcie charges. For a small studio space, acommodating storage for materials and machinery, 200ft2 of studio space should be ample, providing a studio this size is available. A central London location would be ideal for travel, and proximity to suppliers and press. 87
Rent (including water, heating and sev. charge)
£459.66
Internet & Phone (TalkTalk)
£26.95
Electricity
£60.00
Total
£546.61
Appendix J
Further A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis
Crystal Covered
Covered
WGSN
Michael Kors A/W 11/12 Valentino A/W 11/12
Giuseppe Zanotti
Gucci A/W 11/12
Uniform Sizing
River Island A/W 11/12
86 88
Woven
89
Metallic Collage
90
Blended Colouring WGSN
WGSN
'While the classic tones of gray or lilac may look a bit too dull, almost boring to some, they have been brought to life by matching them with darker and more intense tonalities, either in the same graded color or totally changing hue, passing for example from green to blue...' Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends
91
Transparent Nudity
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Appendix J Retail Positioning
The retail positioning has been included as an appendix as the primary channel of distribution of the Tuesday Smith range is through the online shop and custom service. As referred to on page 8, the brand will also aim to gain a position on the website www.frombritainwithlove.co.uk, which represents companies who solely produce in Britain, and work with traditional craft methods. The website gains regular coverage in the press, from magazines such as Red, and newpapers such as The Times. This would widen the audience of the brand, helping to establish the name, and give potential customers information and reassurance about the company. www.notonthehighstreet.com is a similar website, upon which brands are able sell a range of their products, as well as linking directly back to their own website. The site is very selective over the brands it will list, checking quality vigilantly. It is therefore very trusted and has a rapidly growing fan-base. Such websites may help the brand to promote itself to an entirely new consumer group that may not hear about it through other channels. Although Tuesday Smith is a lower-level-luxury brand, such sites may suit the concept because of it's emphasis on supporting craft. Being listed on these websites would be an inexpensive way of beginning the brand promotion stage, and should be an immediate objective, as well as promoting the brand's own online custom store. As previously discussed, the pricing of the range falls below competitors such as Rupert Sanderson, although style and quality will be at a similar level. As a new luxury brand, it should primarily aim to secure sales with smaller boutiques that have a good reputation in the UK, such as Brown's in London. This store stocks a large number of British brands, and its dedicated footwear store would introduce the range to luxury shopppers. Brands stocked currently include Rupert Sanderson, Stella McCartney, and Nicholas Kirkwood. Sitting alongside such renowned labels would be beneficial in raising the profile of the Tuesday Smith label. As a longer term goal as the brand grows, being stocked in a department store such as Liberty, or Fenwicks would be excellent product placement for the brand. Such stores have srtong siginifcance in British retail , and attract forgein shoppers for their mix of quality brands, many of which are British. Liberty's strong arts and craft history continues to influence the product mix stocked today, with British labels such as Paul Smith, John Smedley and Mulberry forming part of the store's huge range. Tuesday Smith could be of interest to the store for it's similar craft ethos and detailed, but luxurious aesthetic. As a distant goal, gaining overseas stockists would widen the brand's audience even further. Stores such as the prestigious Bon Marche in Paris would have a very beneficial impact on the brand's reputation. Although, as a primary brand value is that Tuesday Smith is British, selling to overseas stockists must only be considered when the brand is established and prepared, and the business can cope with the extra pressure this could lead to. The retail positioning of the brand will alter as the brand grows, but it is important to primarily aim to establish the concept and promote the brand-name. Increasing the number stockists must not be permitted unless the brand is capable with keeping up with production demand. Therefore, the brand must not jeopardise it's own survival with extravagant aims, allowing slow but steady growth for long-term success. 93
PPD
The project has been personally challenging in several ways. Firstly, getting back into the mindset of being at college difficult after a year out, but I enjoyed starting a project that I felt passionate about. Although I have had experience of writing business reports and similar work in the past, focusing on the concept of my brand was quite alien to me. Keeping within the word count limit proved near impossible, and I found it difficult to cover the necessary points concisely, without being too brief. This was especially difficult as there are so many facets to my brand concept. Based on past experience, I have aimed to work in a more efficient manner, which has been a good learning curve to find out what works for me. I collated inspirational research on boards, which worked well as I could see the direction the imagery was taking me in. I have used computer programs to mindmap, and create to-do lists which was very useful, as I tend to lose my paper lists often. Such programs save alot of confusion and time, keeping me organised. I created a comprehensive critical path, which I managed to stick to well. This was extremely useful as it also acted as a large checklist for the entire unit. In deciding how to improve and alter my way of working for next term, I am definately going to continue making the most of my computer. Zotero is a useful referencing tool that I unfortunately discovered too late into this term to use it to its full. I am keen to engross myself in my design research, and especially the 3D development of my range, learning about marquetry in order to use the method well and with skill. I have become very passionate about my concept and brand, and aim to build the website, so I can actually sell products I have made online. Although the concept proposal is now complete, I intend to stay interested in the 'Buy British' and custom trends, to keep up-todate with what is happening in the market. The project has been a very personal journey, combining my own interests and passions, as well as my business knowledge. I aim to continue into the final University project with the same commitment and determination, to ensure I am truly happy with the final range and portfolio. Making a thorough plan including timescales and personal deadlines is something I intend to do to help keep completely on track. 94
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Accessed November 4th 2011
www.marketingweek.co.uk Accessed November 4th 2011 http://www.gleni.it/blog/linea-pelle-trends-and-colors-in-exotic-leather/ Accesed Bovember 7th 2011
Image Referencing Page 8 Made In Britain Logo http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/sectors/retail/made-inbritain-logo-launched/3028495.article Accessed November 1st 2011 From Britain With Love Manifesto http://www.frombritainwithlove.com/about-us Accessed November 1st 2011 Page 11 Hermes Custom Scarves http://uk.hermes.com/woman.html?combination=2 Accessed November 5th 2011 Prada Custom Bag & Sunglasses http://customize.prada.com/en/US/bags Accessed November 5th 2011 http://customize.prada.com/en/US/eyewear/eyewearwoman Accessed November 5th 2011 Page 12 Larin http://www.bylarin.com/content/13-all-ornaments Accessed November 9th 2011 http://www.bylarin.com/content/28-clicktwistinstructions Accessed November 9th 2011 Nike I.D http://store.nike.com/gb/en_gb/product/lunar-glide-3shield-id-running-shoe/?piid=22180#?pbid=2358778 Accessed November 20th 2011 Converse Custom http://www.converse.co.uk/#/products/shoes/ converseOne/scratch/all Accessed November 21st 2011 Pages 13 & 14 All Images http://www.anyahindmarch.com/BespokePage/landing Accessed October 30th 2011 Page 19 Clothing http://www.net-a-porter.com, http:// www.cosstores.com/, http://www.reissonline.com/ Accessed November 3rd 2011 Dulwich Home http://www.narratives.co.uk/Details.aspx? ID=24118&TypeID=1&searchtype=&contributor=0&lice nses=1,2&sort=REL&cdonly=False&mronly=False&ima ges=True&video=True&documents=True Accessed October 31st 2011 Customer Original Photograph Taken London, October 10th 2011 Page 20 Clothing http://www.net-a-porter.com, http://www.jaeger.co.uk/, http://www.hobbs.co.uk/ Accessed November 3rd 2011
Bath Photograph http://www.google.co.uk/imgres? q=bath&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=702&tbm=i sch&tbnid=A2xO-3dPzEv3kM:&imgrefurl=http:// www.great-britain.co.uk/regions/central/ 2011bath.htm&docid=oCIFvo6Ab6VFuM&imgurl=http:// www.great-britain.co.uk/regions centralbath4.jpg&w=459&h=284&ei=88vTTqeqK8mmhAf vlqzbDQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=246&sig=117590416854 325004762&page=2&tbnh=141&tbnw=207&start=15&nds p=17&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:15&tx=70&ty=43 Accessed November 3rd 2011
Customer Original Photographs Taken London, October 10th 2011 Page 21 Clothing http://www.net-a-porter.com/ http://www.cosstores.com/ http://www.frenchconnection.com/category/woman/ woman.htm http://www.zara.com/ All Accessed November 2nd Customer Original Photograph Taken, London October 11th Angel Home Original Photograph Taken, London October 14th Tube Sign http://www.flickr.com/ photos/39206030@N04/3617166429/ Accessed November 2nd Page 25 & 26 All Images http://upperstreet.com/ Accessed November 8th 2011 Page 27 & 28 All Images http://www.freyarose.co.uk/ Accessed November 8th 2011 Page 29 & 30 All Images http://www.beatrixong.com/ Accessed November 8th 2011 Page 31 & 32 All Images http://www.penelopechilvers.com/ Accessed November 8th 2011 96
Page 33 All Images http://www.rupertsanderson.com/ Accessed November 8th 2011
Page 80 All original photographs taken in London, 30th October 2011
Page 34 Kate Middleton http://www.elleuk.com/starstyle/style-files/(section)/ kate-middleton/(offset)/36/(img)/781715 Accessed November 9th 2011 Freida Pinto http://www.runningwithheels.com/wp-content/ uploads/2011/10/freida-pinto-2901.jpg Accessed November 9th 2011
Page 85 http://www.anyahindmarch.com/BespokePage/landing Accessed October 30th 2011
Page 86 http://www.beatrixong.com/ Accessed October 20th 2011
Page 35 All Images http://alexandrebirman.com.br/ Accessed November 10th 2011
Page 87 Cockpit Arts http://www.cockpitarts.com/ Accessed October 20th 2011
Page 36 All trend images sourced from WGSN & Kate Hudson net-a-porter, Accessed 4th November 2011 http://www.vstyleblog.com/my_weblog/2010/01/katehudson-in-chanel-at-nine-premiere-in-newyork.html Accessed November 2nd 2011 Olivia Palermo http://www.mtv.com/photos/mtv-style-hotshoes/1641902/5195003/photo.jhtml Accessed November 10th 2011 Page 37 All Images http://www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Shoes/All? designerFilter=Marc_by_Marc_Jacobs All Accessed November 2nd 2011 Page 38 All Images http://www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Shoes/All? designerFilter=See_by_Chloe All Accessed November 2nd 2011 Page 45 http://www.rupertsanderson.com/new-arrivals Accessed November 11th 2011 http://www.anyahindmarch.com/page/ ThingsAnyaLoves Accessed November 11th 2011
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