EAST Magazine Summer 2016 by EAST Magazine

EAST summer 2016

UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS EAST ASIAN STUDIES DEPARTMENT MAGAZINE

Human Rights

BRITAIN & CHINA A Month In

MYANMAR The Dark Side of The

YELLOW UMBRELLA A Volcanic White Dream...

HOKKAIDO, JAPAN Friend or Foe?

CHINA & NORTH KOREA

THE EDITORIAL TEAM

Laura Pincher

Evelyne Hibbert

John Harwood

editor

graphic designer

Violet Ross

Amy Sharp

Matthias De Ruyver

finance co-ordinator

publicity co-ordinator

online co-ordinator

Dear Readers, Thank you for picking up a copy of EAST Magazine, the University of Leeds’ East Asian Studies Department’s own magazine this summer. In this issue we continue looking at North Korea from our article last edition, this time observing relations between the state and its neighbour China. We take a look at relations, too, between China and Hong Kong from a more personal, local perspective, and also, coming from the UK and its relationship with the Asian Tiger. But it’s not just all about China, as we gain an insight into spending a month in Burma / Myanmar and its hidden beauties, and learn what exactly it might mean to go and teach English abroad from someone who is doing it currently. And we spread outside of just East Asia as we learn how to say hello in most of the languages of East and South East Asia. Lastly, we are, as always, grateful for all of the contributions and the support from the Leeds Business Confucius Institute who have made the publication of this issue possible. We hope that you, the reader, and any of you who may have contributed, enjoy reading this magazine as much as we enjoyed creating it. If you’d like to be involved with the next magazine, whether to submit an article or actually help to run things, or just even to show your support, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. See you all again next year! The EAST Magazine team.

lueastmagazine

EAST | Summer 2016

@lueastmagazine

CONTENTS 4

Before and After: Burma’s Election* Alex King

In Search of Spring In Beijing Timothy Van Gardingen

Chinese Autumn, British Springtime: A Winter of Human Rights Discontent? Jonathan Ferguson

艺术没有国界 Art has no borders: The Leeds College of Art Confucius Classroom Business Confucius Institute at the University of Leeds

China: North Korea’s Ally or Enemy? Matt O’Dowd

How to Say “Hello” in....

Indonesia Ollie Stewart

5 Things I’ve Learned While Teaching in Japan Scott Major

CRCC Asia China Internship Program Derek Gondwe

Hokkaido: A Volcanic White Dream Ollie Stewart

The Darker Side to The Yellow Umbrella Kate Hicks

A Month of Impressions from Myanmar* Dolly Ross

*In order to maintain political neutrality, we have used both names of the country Burma / Myanmar

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 3

Before and After:

BURMA’S ELECTION by Alex King

In 2013 I touched down in Burma’s capital Yangon armed with some smelly clothes and a shiny 2012 guide book that had repeated-

had reigned for decades. So was my hostel owner, the owner of the place I had lunch and the owner of incredibly dense eyebrows who

ly warned me to avoid political conversation at all costs. Occupying a silently fascinating position in the Western media’s ‘blind spot’, I

sat with me while I ate. My first two hours in this charming country, and many subsequent beer-augmented evenings spent talking in

learned from the guide that the ruling military junta were fighting a civil war on many fronts,

hushed but excited voices, taught me this was a people on the verge of great change - and

shelling rural villages, beating monks, imprisoning political adversaries, persecuting Muslims, and spending 26% of GDP doing it. Quite the tinderbox, then.

they knew it.

Having resolved to obey the almighty gurus at Lonely Planet HQ and skirt round this con-

The highlights of this visit for me weren’t the wondrous temples of Bagan (how they don’t qualify as a World Wonder I do not know) or the huge gleaming pagodas that adorn even the tiniest village; the highlights were (cliché

siderable pool of domestic kerfuffling I got a cab into central, but to my horror was dragged into my first political conversation of the trip. My cabbie, it turned out, was a big supporter

alert) the people. These were people who’d repeatedly risen up only to be quashed, protested only to be opened fire upon, they’d seen their leader and idol Aung San Suu Kyi placed

of the NDL (National League for Democracy) - opposition to the military dictatorship that

under house arrest and their monks (monks!) march peacefully to her house in what is now

EAST | Summer 2016

known as “The Saffron Revolution,” only for 6000 of them to find themselves behind bars. Astoundingly, none of this registered as defeat in the zeitgeist of Burma’s public, as far as my own Theroux-style probing could ascertain. Happiness and hope was prevailing. An apt example of this spirit came when, high in a mountain range in the rebel Shan state, I awoke to find the village that was offering us its hospitality had become inundated by rebel soldiers. We’re talking khaki, bullet belts, AKs, RPGs, the lot. They’d moved in overnight from their jungle hideout to get food, tea and cigars. This posed a significant risk to the village: Burma’s military would not differentiate between rebels and civilians if it came to a firefight. I was, to put it lightly, quite anxious about all of this.

I emerged tentatively from our lodgings only to see our guide skipping down the road, beaming at everyone he passed. At the next house along, a sergeant was using his pistol as a paperweight for the game of cards he was playing with some of the village elders. Up at the monastery, the maroon of monks’ robes mingled with the green of dirty uniforms. Food-sellers were haggling with rebels from behind their carts. It was a surreal, almost festival-type atmosphere. Later that night, the village chief asked to see us, and asked (told) us not to mention this while we were still in Burma. We didn’t need a guidebook here to advise us to conform.

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 5

We didn’t really know whether the Shan army (who fight for sovereignty of their state) were any more honourable than their enemies when it came to civilian deaths and such, but I took away from this experience a very peaceful impression of an old and ongoing conflict. I left Burma with hope in my heart that the people would get the democracy they deserved. They got it emphatically in November last year in the country’s first democratic elections since the junta stubbornly ignored an NLD victory in 1990. This time around, with more international attention on Burma, the NLD swept up 86% of seats. While Aung San Suu Kyi is constitutionally barred from the presidency by a hopelessly obvious law concerning her children’s dual nationality, she has declared that she will hold the real power after years of suffering for the cause of freedom. No one has complained. I should add here that while she holds a Nobel Peace Prize and is hailed as a wonderful woman, she’s done noticeably little to help the marginalised Muslims of Burma.

EAST | Summer 2016

I was studying abroad in Singapore at the time, and decided I couldn’t return to the UK without first returning to Burma and hopefully catching the tail end of the celebrations. I touched down in December and found Burma just as I’d left it (albeit with a few more ATMs and hotels). This was, I have to say, slightly disappointing. Given everything I’d learned in bars, on buses and from guides last time around, I had expected a country brimming with joy at their new-found political freedom. On this trip though, in bars, on buses and from guides, I learned something else rather poignant about the people of Burma. While policy and trade and governmental offices were in the midst of a great sea-change, day-to-day life was continuing as it had done for generations. Engaged couples would still visit astrologists to select a sacred wedding day, monks would still gather alms in the streets, rubbish tea would still be served to chatting friends on ludicrously tiny plastic chairs, chapatis would still be flipped, pilgrimages be made, and taxi drivers would still turn around and give you some travel information that you can’t find in any guide book. The people of Burma aren’t in any hurry to change these things, and my two visits, straddling an historic election, proved there’s more to life than complaining about politics. These people are simply very happy.

In Search of Spring

In Beijing Photos by Timothy Van Gardingen

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 7

CHINESE AUTUMN, BRITISH SPRINGTIME:

A Winter of Human Rights Discontent? by Jonathan Ferguson

n 2016, it is possible to be optimistic about the legacy of last year’s UK-China trade mission, however inauspicious it appeared to some at the time? It is true that in much of the English language internet sphere, George Osborne’s September 2015 visit to China was received by human rights advocates coldly, or even with hostility? Osborne’s mission was noteworthy in its emphasis on practical business concerns, rather than contentious human rights issues. Yet, it is too easy to condemn the trading mission for ‘opportunism’ and ‘taking the line of least resistance.’ UK politicians are in a serious double bind. They can end up being

And there are certainly grounds for caution. It ought to be uncontroversial to say that the refusal of Lord Macartney to bow to the Emperor Qianlong in 1973 is a disgraceful episode in the history of international relations and diplomacy. Short of being consistently roughed up by the Emperor’s officials from the moment they set foot on shore to the moment they met the sovereign leader of China, it is difficult to see what could ever have remotely excused Macartney’s arrogance. Seasickness and the inevitable strains, stresses and fears of his task seem rather weak pretexts in themselves. Macartney’s conceited ‘worthier-than-thouness’ encapsulates the

criticized either for imperialist presumption, or for heartless indifference to the plight of ethnic or religious minorities, women or other individuals in China.

hypocrisy and lack of humility of the shock troops of ‘civilization.’ And indeed, many men of the traditional bureaucracy of Qing China considered past Britons to ‘barbarians bringing civilization.’

EAST | Summer 2016

And for all the faults of the late imperial literati, however conservative or even (at times) reactionary many such figures were, they were hardly far off the mark in seeing the self-exalted ‘savage-civilizers’ as being, at bottom, ‘savage civilizers.’ The Opium Wars, treaty ports and other infamous, punitive and intrusive campaigns and measures have inflicted wounds which even today, suppurate and fester. And every now and again, these wounds break out in fresh bleeding once again. Consider the fascinating studies of the views of Chinese ‘cyber-nationalists’ by Xu Wu and Ying Jiang. It is certain that while many Chinese people are wary of baring their wounds to the broader global sphere of communications, there are nevertheless a number

of ardent nationalists who are quick to call foreign governments and other political and ideological agents to account. And in all sincerity, it is difficult for a person of integrity to attribute the writings of the cyber-nationalists purely to ethnocentrism, racism, culturalism, Occidentalism, or the fear, anxiety and ‘fragile national-masculinity’ of a prominent nation-state rising to what may, in due course, be the geopolitical jackpot of true world-historical significance: to wit, one of the ‘poles’ of a truly multipolar world order, where the USA is merely one superpower among several. Of course, some Chinese people, including many in authority, will often show discretion, even in the face of what they may consider to be unbearable provocation and utterly demeaning behavior. This is probably not mere-

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 9

ly a matter of cultural differences, the latter ness’ has led to a weakening of historical being the first refuge of the simple-minded awareness in China or anywhere else can be and simple-speaking scoundrel. Rather, tact debated; but in this country at least, the past is part of diplomatic convention all over the is not up for sale. Not even to the highest bidworld, even if it is not always consistently ap- der! (And how can the UK government be sure plied. they could match the bids of other Some Yes: the mere absence of exnations anyway? It is exceedingly plicit criticism of their humanidifficult to buy off and appease Chinese people tarian pedagogues, or indeed of a powerful nation where legitiany objection at all, whether exmay have forgiven mate grievances are still firmly plicit or implicit, does not mean woven into the emotional fabric the atrocities of that Chinese people are indifof the nation). ferent to the past. In China, like Western and Japanese This is not to say that every everywhere else in the world, Chinese person is consumed imperialism; the past is emphatically not a with simmering resentment foreign country, regardless of against ‘outsiders.’ It is merely but to forgive what the flamboyant fancies of to say that governments of cerpoets and novelists may insintain nations have to watch their is not the same uate. On the contrary, the past step. And it is possible that Daas to forget is intimately bound up with tenvid Cameron’s baffling and argusions lived out in the present, and ably extravagantly naive decision to the anxieties of the future. Some Chinese peo- meet with the Dalai Lama in May 2012, and ple may have forgiven the atrocities of West- subsequent on this score may have made the ern and Japanese imperialism; but to forgive task of not unnecessarily provoking the Chiis not the same as to forget. nese authorities an even stronger imperative An old, old story. Elsewhere in the world, than it might have otherwise been. the Vatican of 2016 (a ‘Middle Kingdom’ all Ultimately, the UK’s history of coercing of its own) would feel guilt-stricken in con- China by military force cannot easily be treatdemning the marginal Protestant Chris- ed as ‘past history’ by the many Chinese peotian-barbarians on the fringes of the empire ple who view this past as living history, and to eternal hellfire. The olive branch of Vatican not as dead history. II has been adorning the throne of St Peter for some decades already! And yet… it does not follow that Martin Luther is to be deemed a Bio: Jonathan Ferguson is an alumnus of good Catholic, or half the man St Francis or St Chinese Studies at the University of Leeds (BA Ignatius Loyola have been. & MA). He is a PhD candidate at King’s College Vague and crude as the analogy is, the genLondon, currently writing up his thesis on moderal point is clear. Even if many Chinese people will not hold the crimes of past British, ern Chinese intellectual history. His research French or Japanese people against the people interests in Chinese Studies and the humanities living in such countries today, China is no less include Utopianism, identity politics and ana historically-conscious nation than anywhere else. Whether or not ‘postmodern conscious-

10 EAST | Summer 2016

ti-humanism. Jonathan has also produced some news commentary and satire journalism.

China Internship Program Invest in Your Future

Interview with CRCC Asia Alumni Derek Gondwe Derek is a ﬁnal year Sociology student at the University of Leeds. He completed a 2 month internship in Beijing through the Generation UK-China program in summer 2015

Why did you decide to intern in China?

What did you gain from this experience?

China’s growing inﬂuence in international markets, the ﬁnancial world and media and creative industries, stood out as the main reason I wanted to intern in China. I also wanted to embrace a new culture and way of life and expand my cultural awareness, making new contacts and friends along the way.

I learnt that China is a country filled with opportunities for those who seek them out! It’s a nation rich in history, culture and tradition and is very welcoming to anyone who wants to embrace what it has to offer. In a situation where I had to learn and adapt, I became more independent and self-confident. Being half way across the world from family and friends, I had to go out and make the effort to integrate with others, although the fantastic support network offered by CRCC helped! It took no longer than a day to get used to my surroundings, and I made great connections and friends with people who, almost a year later, I am still in contact with.

What was your impression of Beijing? Beijing is a booming metropolis. The best way I can describe the city is like an open termite mound; everyone in the city is working towards a common goal, focused and on the move. Beijingers are very welcoming to foreigners and, although I stuck out like a sore thumb on public transport and got the occasional stare, it was usually in good spirit with a look of fascination followed by a smile, not to mention the odd photo. I interned in Beijing during the summer months so the weather was fantastic most of the time (hard to believe but there were clear skies for a good month!). CRCC also organised a trip to an unrestored part of the Great Wall, where we camped out by the wall after a one hour hike, had a BBQ and watched the sun set and rise together as a group! This was by far one of the best experiences I ever had and something I still can’t believe I experienced.

What was the toughest aspect of your time abroad? Getting a grasp of Mandarin was probably the hardest thing at ﬁrst. However, by the end of my trip I was able to order meals in Chinese at restaurants and hold very basic conversations.

Would you live or work in China in the future? Yes of course! There is still so much of the country to explore and experience! I would love to go back to China soon but we’ll see what the future holds for me.

APPLY TODAY | BEIJING SHANGHAI SHENZHEN www.crccasia.com internships@crccasia.com

Things I’ve Learned While Teaching in Japan by cott Ma or America is King Rarely in my life do I use the words soccer or sidewalk un-ironically, and every time I do use such mericanisms it is in a voice dripping with sarcasm and thinly veiled disdain. However in apan, as in much of the world, British nglish isn’t a thing. I’ve had to say sayounara to the u in colour and favourite , and adopt merican nglish as the norm. The nadir of this downhill slope was when I was asked to read aloud a story in which a child repeatedly cried Mommy! My mouth refused to form the word properly, and instead I was left making a gurgling, choking sound. ot unlike a real child.

But this doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with it espite the fact that textbooks and dictionaries are chock-full of mericanisms, this doesn’t mean that you have to wave tatty-bye to your mother dialect once and for all. ar from it, in fact. Teaching apanese students little snippets of British nglish is one of the best parts of the ob. It feels like a small (but insignificant, let’s be honest act of rebellion. Having students tell you that they got up at uarter past seven instead of seven fifteen is oddly satisfying. However nothing could beat the time when, asked about her weekend plans, a student said I will faff. he got a sticker.

12 EAST | Summer 2016

Technical Paradise? No. In popular culture apan is a technological wonderland, and while it is true that apanese toilets are perhaps best described as high tech , the same cannot be said for much else in apan. I have never used email to contact my colleagues, and the fax machine is still very much a thing here. You can even buy blank H tapes at the convenience store.

Children have Short Memories s part of my ob, I am re uired to spend days out of every month working at local elementary schools. n elementary school days, I eat lunch with the children, and usually answer any uestions they have for me. However, the uestions are usually the same. Where are you from , How old are you , and, oddly, Where do you work Having been asked the same three uestions, from the same three children time and time again, I started to get a little creative with the answers. When I successfully managed to convince them that I was Chinese (thank you B Chinese I knew my work there was done.

School Sports are Serious Business I hated at school. I wouldn’t go so far as to say I would deliberately sabotage cricket and soccer matches, but it did take me a disproportionately long time to learn that a football is not to be picked up and carried (slowly off the pitch. o imagine my surprise when I was told that oining schools sports clubs is highly encouraged. What fun, I thought. I can play a bit of football with my kids after school, and get to know them a little better. ot so. chool clubs don’t exist to play sports, they exist to win the all- apan unior High chool Championship, and esus Christ cott-sensei, go back to the staffroom since you’re ust in the way. They never did find that soccer ball. Scott studied BA Modern Chinese (single honours) at the University of Leeds and started teaching English in Tottori City, Tottori Prefecture, Japan, in August 2015, with no teaching experience beforehand.

THE DARKER SIDE TO THE

YELLOW UMBRELLA

by Kate Hicks

Before I arrived in Hong Kong I was already somewhat aware of the anti-China atmosphere that was prevalent in the city. The yellow umbrella protests of made headlines around the world, and were an easy movement to support the peaceful democracy-seeking students standing up to the imposing acebook-blocking power of mainland China. ince living here, however, a more uncomfortable side of the anti-China movement has been very apparent and has even resulted in some rare instances of violence in this normally peaceful city. Many of the local people I have met here make no effort to hide the fact that they hate mainlanders . The reasons cited to me have been fairly stereotypical shouting, spitting, cutting ueues and general rudeness . The frustrating thing is, most of these people admit that they don’t know many mainland people personally and are basing their feelings on stories they have heard and the odd raucous tour group. They’re often shocked to hear that I do not share this hatred and that I have friends from China. But the resentment towards China is not limited to uiet grumbling across the dinner table. n many occasions I have witnessed shop keepers ignore or respond rudely to customers from the mainland, while being perfectly civil to fellow Hong ongers and other foreigners. In addition, protests about the influx of mainland shoppers have manifested in shoppers being targeted individually, and there is even a report of a man being beaten unconscious by angry locals. Worse still, arguably, I have even come across students aged about five who claim to hate Chinese people , meaning those from the mainland. When asked, they had no idea why, except that their parents did too. They were completely

oblivious to the fact that half of their classmates were themselves from across the border. It doesn’t take a history expert to find this behaviour all too familiar and extremely worrying. While the concerns about freedom of speech and protection of autonomy by localist groups are hugely important, it seems that ordinary Chinese people are taking the brunt of the blame for what Bei ing is doing in Hong ong. more refreshing conversation with one of my older students revealed that while he is still vehemently against Bei ing’s influence in Hong ong, he has started to realise that blaming the people themselves will do more harm than good. He said he feels that it is the Hong ong government’s responsibility to educate both sides about cultural differences and encourage a peaceful transition. fter all, Hong ong is renowned for its multiculturalism. It would be strange indeed if it couldn’t accept Chinese people to be part of this. I sincerely hope that this sort of mentality spreads uickly, and people in Hong ong begin to draw a line between their political and personal grudges. The hostility has already caused a drop in tourism due mainlanders avoiding the city for fear of their safety, and heading to friendlier destinations like Taiwan and apan. Moreover, a rise in violence will surely only give Chinese authorities more ustification for tightening their grip on the city, and extinguish any glimmer of hope that this uni ue place will be able to hold on to, or even develop, its tiny bubble of freedom and democracy.

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 13

艺术没有国界 rt has no borders The eeds College of rt Confucius Classroom ashion students were given a brief to design their own modern take on the ipao, adding Western elements to the traditional Chinese garment. Here you can see tutor Michelle Wang admiring the garments designed by winning students Bethan mith and odie Reynolds.

s well as having their garments professionally made, Bethan and odie were invited on the BCI ummer Camp to Bei ing. They experienced Chinese culture ﬁrst hand and had the opportunity to visit local fashion companies.

Crowds of people ﬂocked to eeds Civic Hall to see Bethan and odie’s garments shown alongside work by experienced Chinese and Western designers at the BCI ast Meets West’ event for eeds ight ight.

am Hudson, ashion rogramme eader at eeds College of rt, introducing the garments at the Confucius Classroom Grand pening.

14 EAST | Summer 2016

The eeds College of rt Confucius Classroom, launched in ebruary , is redeﬁning the Confucius Classroom concept. sually these centres deal only with Chinese language teaching, but eeds College of rt is creating a hub that focusses on cultural awareness and professional development within the context of ashion and Textiles. The pro ect was initiated by The Business Confucius Institute at the niversity of eeds (BCI , whose guidance, resources and connections provide the perfect pla orm for the Confucius Classroom to thrive. It all began with a pilot pro ect which saw fashion students learning about Chinese language and culture, and has developed into a truly exciting collaboration. Read on for an introduction to BCI ’s second Confucius Classroom in pictures.

cials from the Chinese Consulate in Manchester were present for the unveiling of the Confucius Institute pla ue.

fter the success with ashion, the pro ect will extend to involve rinted Textiles and urface a ern esign. Here rogramme eader uncan Harrison is talking to students at the Grand pening.

BCI supports a wide range of events, giving a fantastic pla orm for students to showcase their work. Bethan and odie’s designs were featured at this fashion show at eeds Town Hall where many inﬂuential women were present to celebrate International Women’s ay.

Watch the video from the Confucius Classroom Grand Opening! can the QR code or visit h p bit.ly Y. d the us ess o fuc us stitute at the University of Leeds on w er eeds o fuc us a d aceboo

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 15

n a country plagued with poverty and where the standard of living is miserably low, North Korea has recently been playing games again with its neighbours and the US. It celebrated the “success” of its fourth nuclear test on January 6th this year, causing an earthquake in part of China, and since sent a charming gift to its neighbour on the eve of Chinese New Year; a rocket fired in the sky, which was seen from the two countries’ border. Following the nuclear test, the UN got to work on imposing sanctions on Kim Jong-un’s kingdom, and whilst the US and Japan wanted to get the work done as quickly as possible, China proved an obstacle. It stated that it was concerned that sanctions would harm the stability of the nation, as well as causing its economy to collapse. Nevertheless, on 2nd March, the countries put pen to paper, and North Korea received the tough-

16 EAST | Summer 2016

est sanctions imposed for decades. The country is now forbidden from importing coal, iron, iron ore, or any fuel for its nuclear programme. If China still sees itself as an ally of North Korea, why did it agree to the sanctions? China has for years put an emphasis on maintaining world peace, fearing that war in any form would put a halt to its remarkable economic growth of the past 35 years. It has been infuriated by North Korea’s nuclear actions over the past few years, and now feels that it is time to put a stop to it. Since North Korea announced that it had developed a hydrogen bomb, capable of reaching America, concerns about the safety of Japan were raised. If North Korea’s missiles could reach Japan, they could certainly reach Beijing. But for now, China’s support of North Korea’s regime will certainly keep the two nations at peace.

CHINA

NORTH KOREA’S

ALLY OR ENEMY? by Matt O’Dowd

The two countries are bound by ideological ties, and whilst communism in China may be fading, it still very much retains its great slogan: “No war, no instability, no nukes” “不战、不乱、无核” China’s political news has been dominated by the recent “Two Sessions”, meetings of the National People’s Congress and the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference. The question of North Korea was always bound to crop up, with one journalist asking China Foreign Minister Wang Yi if the country would support North Korea or the US in the event of an armed conflict. After the usual communist official spiel about the nation’s traditions and history, he commented: “We will not yield to any nuclear or abnormal plan conducted by North Korea. We must clearly see that peace can only be brought about through

denuclearisation, dialogue is the only way out and cooperation is the only way of achieving a win-win situation.” China’s economic slowdown hit the world’s headlines last year, but results of the recent National People’s Congress have ensured that it is still a priority, with aims of maintaining GDP growth of between 6.5% and 7%. China’s exports to the rest of the world are sharply falling, which makes exports to North Korea more and more important to sustain its economy. That said, the new sanctions on North Korea, which forbid the import of substances used for nuclear weapons, could be detrimental to China’s economy. It will, however, continue to try to maintain exports with its neighbour, particularly food and energy, without which North Korea would become even more impoverished (whether Kim Jong-

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 17

un would care or not is another matter). Relations between the two countries were called into question at the end of last year, with the rather bizarre incident involving a North Korean pop group. Sent as a “gift” to Chinese officials, the state-run band travelled over to China to perform for high-level communist party officials. But on the same day North Korea announced that it possessed hydrogen bomb technology, angering the Chinese officials who refused to attend and the concert was cancelled. The New Year arrived, and their relations were aggravated further. North Korea gave no notice at all of its fourth nuclear test, even to its ally. With China’s focus on peace of stability, Kim Jong-un’s dictatorship is not proving a reliable ally. There’s no reason for China to fear a nuclear attack from North Korea at the moment, but what it will fear is the increasing nuclear ability of its surrounding countries. Kim Jong-un’s aggressive actions have essentially led to Taiwan, South Korea and Japan investing more in nuclear weapons, which all harm China’s security environment.

18 EAST | Summer 2016

H o w e v e r, it would be wrong to suggest that the two countries were starting to become enemies. Essentially, if China were to transform its stance, it could put itself at risk from a sulky attack from its neighbour, but more importantly, it would destabilise North Korea, which could see floods of refugees crossing the border into China – something the country absolutely doesn’t want given its overpopulation. In the long term, the North Korean regime would surely collapse and one would assume that this would mean a united Korea. South Korea is one of the most developed countries in the region and unity would bring it more power. China is still very much in a power battle, seen partially through its island conflict with Japan, and also through its building of artificial islands, thought to be for military purposes. A united Korea would bring itself unwanted competition to become the region’s leader. Therefore, in spite of North Korea’s irresponsible behaviour, China remains its major ally. The tension between them will continue to make the news for years to come and a breakdown of relations (which would surely lead to a breakdown in the North Korean regime) would go down in the history books.

HOW TO SAY HELLO IN... CHINA nǐ hǎo

JAPAN kon'nichiwa

KOREA annyeonghaseyo BURMA / MYANMAR min-ga-la-ba LAO sábaai-dii

THAILAND sà-wàt-dee

CAMBODIA johm riab sua

PHILIPPINES kamusta VIETNAM chào anh (M) chào chị (F)

INDONESIAN halo

MALAYSIA selamat pagi (good morning) selamat petang (good afternoon) selamat malam (good night)

These are just a few of the thousands of languages in East and South East Asia!

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 19

INDONESIA by Ollie Stewart

20 EAST | Summer 2016

instagram: #easternwonders

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 21

HOKKAIDO

a volcanic white dream… by Ollie Stewart

何?

‘Nannnniii’ (何) is a sound that you are likely to hear in a multicultural English /

most of the workers are simultaneously trying to learn their coworker’s language it adds an interesting dynamic to the workplace. I have been working in Hokkaido for a small company in the bewilderingly snow covered ski resort of Niseko. Much of the Niseko hill is covered in floodlights and due to the abundance of snow it’s possible to put a good few fresh tracks down after a day in the office. Every morning I wake up on a tatami floor with a futon (Grass mat with a slightly thicker mat on top), pull back the thin slidy doors to my room and look outside to see what Mount Yotei - the 1900 M volcano - is up too before heading off to work. The living has been pretty awesome so far

this kind of visa once. After that you will need to find a sponsor to vouch for you to continue working in Japan. Using these one off visas to work freely in Japan is a fantastic way to get to understand a lot of the cultural nuances that you might miss as a tourist. Every day interactions between colleagues in Japan unveil some more of the unique aspects of the culture. ‘otsukaresama desu’ (お疲れ様です) is a phrase I’ve noticed ricocheting around the office very frequently. It loosely means: good job, cheers for working hard or I’m so tired I’m going home… I would love to give a better explanation of what this phrase actually means but as with many of the phrases I have come across, Japanese people can’t seem to explain some of the seemingly elusive meanings of the language. Also, different people seem to come up with varying definitions, which

in Japan. As a European it’s relatively easy to get hold of a years working visa, which is ideal, but these visas are like gold dust because you can only procure

gives me the impression that Japanese sayings can often be subjective and circumstantial. One of the jobs I’ve had to do over the past few months is pick up all the cleaners from the nearby

Japanese-speaking office - It means what!? When

22 EAST | Summer 2016

town of Kutchan. With not a jot of English between them and my somewhat basic understanding of Japanese our communication can be quite comical. The snow-drenched streets of Kutchan were quite difficult for me to navigate to begin with, but I’ve come across some enigmatic scenes on the circuit. Sometimes when there are road works going on, lots of men with light-sabers appear on the roads to control the flow of traffic. When you are eventually signaled to drive on the line of men raise their light-sabers above their heads and bow to you as you pass. I can’t imagine that happening at road works on the M25…

My next plan is to buy a bike and head South. Really looking forward to seeing the rest of this beautiful country.

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 23

A Month of Impressions from

Myanmar March 2016

by Dolly Ross I’ll always remember the impatient excitement and genuine intrigue I felt first descending in a little bumpy propeller plane over verdant plains dotted with the mystical bright gold temple spires. As the last destination in SE Asia not to have had influence from mass tourism, Myanmar felt like the unknown. I’d seen in pictures its beauty and read of some human complexities lying within its landscapes; all this was racing through my mind on that descent.

Arriving there, as I was to discover, was like stepping back in time. It gave me a hint of an idea

of what the likes of Thailand and Cambodia would be if recent decades hadn’t involved so many backpacks, island tours and booze cruises. This isn’t an article to plug its mysterious ancient temple lands, the unbelievable mountainous landscapes of the South, it’s fascinating, still little-known customs or the peculiar, oily but delicious food - even though I was in love with all of it. There is already enough eas-

24 EAST | Summer 2016

ily found online for all of this. It’s simply my insight, but I hope it will leave a similar sort of effect on the reader. Here’s what I was (vaguely) aware of before arriving: * * Visitors are unable to cross borders overland casually, unlike Thailand, Vietnam etc. which many know is fairly simple. No matter how close you find yourself by certain borders you’ll normally be asked to buy a (deliberately) expensive flight over a lot of areas to avoid them (applicable mostly in the north/north-west where there are ongoing military-ethic-religious tensions). * Unusual food; characteristically extremely oily and distinctly unspicy, it is eaten by locals without the fresh chilli that is always served with it. Think of its interesting position, between India and Thailand.

* At the time, it is still under the decades-long rule of a rather brutal and silencing military government that was using methods of child/forced labour as punishment, slavery, in other words. It is now, thankfully, undergoing a huge internal shift (albeit a fragile one) due to recent election results, in the direction of democracy. * The 2nd biggest producer of Opium in the World after Afghanistan. * Possessing what is arguably the most beautiful alphabet still in use. * Profoundly Buddhist. So, not many common attributes for a holiday destination there. The minute after stepping off the plane, with some Yangon May-time humidity having kicked me in the face, I was just about to understand some of these things a whole lot better. In terms of the people, still now, whether in the big cities or remote cultural spots, you will be the first foreigner many Burmese have laid eyes on, unlike in Cambodia or Thailand

where most locals are bored by the sight of you. And of course you will stick out. I upset a seller on my first night wandering around the sprawling central city night market, failing miserably simply at trying to buy some bananas (the seller was offended that I’d touched them without him being around...oops). But other than this faux pas, it was easy to gage people’s friendly intrigue; their kind, curious faces everywhere that they are actually rather HAPPY to see you. Where are you from? What are you doing here? You can see these questions racing through their minds as they assess you, your face, your clothes, your demeanour... it’s a positive sizing-up, perhaps to them, a good sign their country is opening up. I fully be-

seeing this warmness would make the biggest Khao San road ‘lad’ seriously pull his socks up and humbly reciprocate lieve that only

the same sort of respect.

In the ancient temple-land of Bagan, a 30-something man’s lack of English didn’t deter him from boldly trying to express his frustrations on the incompetence and blatant corruption of the ‘fuck government’ for many things; his generation’s illiteracy, a huge limiting of opportunities/income for most citizens and measures severely barring freedom of

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 25

speech, just being a few. This man was

to be seen within the likes of Mawlinmyine

bold to talk so openly about such things,

(a.k.a Moulmein), standing next to brand

for, at the time, he would have been fully

new, but empty Smart phone shops. Further-

aware of its risk of a heavy imprison-

more, in some lesser visited outer-city parts,

ment. He was one of three people over the

pictures online of brand new Lamborghinis

4 weeks I was there, eager to

literally driving past third world outer-city

discuss

such things (notably with

shanty areas are not exag-

my male friend more than

gerated - I saw it.

me). And there were signs

Aside from these some-

in how these conversations

what

were initiated by Myan-

trasts,

mar people without us even

taneous beauty - in every

remotely

form you’d wish for - was

inviting

them

ourselves.

These were people who

really wanted

to talk about their lives with you,

and taking real risks in order to do so. Economic and developmental inconsistencies, or rather, the differences in living standards from one household to the next, also are pronounced like nowhere else I have been. Yangon is where new development is most evident. Skyscrapers stand next to areas of the beautiful old apartments where they hang rope and a bucket out of windows to the street for the postman to send up the day’s newspaper. Nostalgic senses of the country are seen more easily in the capital, Mandalay, where, strangely, is it less built up with old style, low-lying dark wood houses. There are also intriguing, rundown, historic markets and ghostly colonial buildings of a beautiful, weathered turquoise colour

26 EAST | Summer 2016

disorientating

con-

Myanmar’s

spon-

unlike anywhere I’d ever been. When I think of Myanmar I think of the simpler, natural sides of life seen in countryside towns such as Hsipaw (en route to Inle Lake). I think of a warm afternoon

there,

spent

paddy fields watching young boys playing in a river with some on-looking buffaloes. I think of the rowdy exaltation, Betel-induced hedonism of Bagan locals listening to live music, on account of it being the first public cultural event in the town ever (privately funded). However, mostly, I think of the genuine, open-armed, open-hearted warmness of such kind strangers who wanted to make this lone traveller feel more welcome.

These things I took away and they will succeed in pulling me back.

change lifes.

for good.

why help Myanmar?

to donate please visit:

actionaid.org.uk

We hope you enjoyed our Summer Edition of EAST Magazine!

WANT TO GET INVOLVED? We are now accepting submissions for next years Editorial Team for:

EDITORS - GRAPHIC DESIGNERS - PUBLICITY CO-ORDINATORS FINANCE CO-ORDINATORS - ONLINE MARKETERS To apply please email us at: lueastmagazine@gmail.com with your name and 500 words on why youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to apply for the role chosen

Applications accepted until: MAY 31st

photo by Ollie Stewart

lueastmagazine.com | EAST 27

Eye on Asia Photography Competition 1st place: Mailies Fleming - ‘18-hour Sleeper Train’ (FRONT COVER) 2nd place: Hannah Tendler - ‘The Underweight Cow’ (TOP) 3rd place: Jing Lin - ‘Lake of the Heaven’ (BOTTOM)