Self Service supplement - Self Catering by Luke A Harris

SELF CAT ERING self service spring/summer supplement 2011 - 20â&#x201A;Ź

Editor-in-Chief & Creative Director Fashion Director

Luke Harris Sarah Zhang

Art Direction Advertising Director

Work in Progress www.workinprogress.com Alexander Flick

Editorial Layout Editor Associate Editor (Art&Photography) Copy Editors Editors

Luke Harris Efia White Sarah Zhang Alexander Flick Candy Choi, Samuel Green.

Fashion Associater Editor (Fashion&Beauty) Assistant to the Fashion Director Contributing Fashion Editors

Efia White Sarah Zhang Alexander Flick, Candy Choi

Design

Luke Harris

Contributing Photographers

Rossana Aroujo

Contributors

Samuel Green, Donncha Rahil, Gwen Whateley, Jessica Hutchings, Dina Dayupay,

Subscriptions

www.selfservicemagazine.com

Photographic retouching

Luke Harris

Printing & Distribution

Vauxhaul Reprographics. printroom@lsrlondon.com

Self Service offices

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

cover

SELF CAT ERING

SELF CAT ERING FRONT COVER: MODEL- GWEN WHATELEY @ IMG MODELS, STYLING: ALEXANDER FLICK, MAKE-UP: EFIA WHITE, HAIR STYLING: EFIA WHITE & ALEXANDER FLICK, PHOTOGRAPHY: ROSSANNA ARAUJO, EDITING TEAM: LUKE HARRIS. NAPKIN: VALENTINO SILK.

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

contents

the obsessions 10

12 13 14

photography by Luke Harris

styling by Sarah Zhang

style team- EfiaWhite, Alexander Flick By Candy Choi

Louis Vuiton Chanel Louboutin Prada Liqorice Macaroon Stella McCartney Yves St Lauren American Apperel Chloe Moschino Laduree

food for thought

a lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ancienne

photographed by Rosanna Araujo

Giselle Bunchen

on appreciating the smaller things

back to grain

photographed by Luke Harris

41 49

lilith through loves eyes petit dejuner

photographed by Luke Harris illustration by Candy Choi

styling Sarah Zhang, Efia White, Alexander Flick styling Sarah Zhang graphic editing Luke Harris

53 55

conversations Sophie Calle Michel Roux Jr

on creative processes on personal career

by Luke Harris by Candy Choi

in this issue

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s letter

Once again it is time to introduce something different. Self service has decided to hand over the reigns once again to a new editor in the form of a supplement. The bi-annual magazine has now spawned this, a new little sister magazine, the first (of what will become many) condensed seasonal issue. In this issue we played with food, a simple, but very much needed element of our lives, harnessing it to create a spectrum of pages, looking not only at what it is but how we interact with it and what it evokes in us. Our relationship with something as important as food, varies from person to person. Not only is it essential but it is part of a lifestyle, an image, and also part of our emotion; sparking the temptation, the beauty, the feel, and the satisfaction that is sprinkled throughout. It controls our perseption of the day and is something in which helps to invigorate us to live these wonderful lives we lead. This issue is a look into the prospects and encounters with food, capturing the ways in which it becomes part of our life, as an accent into our day-to day doings, routines and memories. The sensory influence it holds within the hours we are awake, not only do we ingest it but we enjoy it, we feel it, we smell it, using these as sensory constructs to our thoughts about the past. It is beauty, is it taste and it is also strength, not only through food do we strive, but through food we create. It has been enjoyed as part of our lives but also as part of this magazine. A tribute to the little things in which we truly canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t live without. Luke Harris - Editor in Chief

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

THE OBSESSIONS Photography - Luke Harris

Styling - Sarah Zhang

The obsessions we crave simple scream at our taste buds to try, and buy. It is the moments in which we wish to endulge, but dare not to give into these temptations. This year we pray that you give into life and enjoy lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little things, reward yourself with what your body asks for and simply enjoy sensibly, it is easy to forget that we are all still vibrant within, even in the moments that it may not seems to shine through. The (inner) child asks for pleasure without guilt. shyness is to be stripped away this time, live in modesty. - Luke Harris 09

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Model - Dina Dayupay

Dress suit: Louis Vuitton, Shirt: Chanel, Shoes & Handbag Both: Louboutin, Sunglasses: Prada.

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

This page: Jeans: Stella McCartney, Shirt: Yves st Lauren, Candy & Macaroons: Laduree Opposite page: Suit and shirt: see cover page.

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

This Page: Shirt:American Apparrel, Shorts, Belt, Bag and Shoes: Chloe Opposite Top, Shirt: Moschino, All foods featured: Laduree 13

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering supplement issue 01

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

FOOD FOR TH OUGHT A COLLECTION THAT WE DARE TO ADMIT TO

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

l’ANCIENNE

Photographer - Rossana Araujo Style Team - Alexander Flick and Efia White Model - Gwen Whateley Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Title Page: SunGlasses: D&G Dolce and Gabbanna, Cropped Blouse: Miu Miu , Shorts: American Apparele This Page: Chiffon Dress: Vintage Ghost, Underskirt: Ghost

This Page: Pink Cardigan: Valentino, White Dress: Isabel Marant. Opposite Page: Cropped Blouse: same as title, Jewelery: Models own 25

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Silk Chiffon Blouse: Yves St Laurent, Shorts: Chloe (as featured before) Hat: Diane Von Furstenburg, Belt: Prada. Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

ISELE BUNCHEN

One of the highest earning supermodel in the world, she has the body & the tan that every woman is jealous of, but unlike most other models in the industry, Gisele Bundchen is an absolute food lover. ‘ I would get really sick If I don’t eat all the time,’ said Gisele. A high profile model once revealed that Gisele often turns up to shoots & shows with all her treats, which upsets a lot of girls, and there are actually some models who refuse to be around her when she has all those snacks. But in response, Gisele warned her colleagues they shouldn’t jeopardize their health by starving to keep their looks. ‘It is very important to remember that if you don’t put gas in your car, it’s going to stop. Similarly, if I don’t put food in my body, I am going to die. That’s why I eat whatever there is to eat, because I don’t want to faint on the runway.’ Very true, but there are lots of models who would be absolutely jealous because Gisele just naturally has that amazing body. Greatful for the food that she enjoys. Gisele would put her hands over the plate of food, and say a silent prayer to pay her own respect to it. ‘ I eat a lot of meat, and I bless my food before it enters my body, because I need to be aware of what I’m eating. You bless it first and say, ‘Thank you for giving your life.’ This animal has given its life for me. You’ve got to be grateful; you’ve got to be conscious. You can’t just take it for granted. How many people in the world have no food? I think it’s important to acknowledge that.’ This is an admirable quality that Gisele not only loves food, but also respects, and be grateful of the food she has, while nowadays, most people take food for granted, and some are even anorexic. So what actually does she do to keep her body in shape? ‘A healthy & balanced diet allows me to lose weight, and to keep my body in good shape.’ And the key to success? ‘ Don’t deprive yourself of the food you like, you just need to keep an eye on the quantity. It is also very important that you don’t remove carbohydrates as it keeps your energy & happiness. And lastly, control your weight each week, it will motivate you, and let you know if you are doing well.’ Journalist - Candy Choi

BACK TO GRAIN PHOTOGRAPHY - LUKE HARRIS

STYLE TEAM - SARAH ZHANG & ALEXANDER FLICK MAKE-UP EFIA WHITE MODEL - DONNCHA RAHIL Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Opposite page: Bag: Prada, This page: Trousers: Yohji Yammamoto (features also on title)

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Knitwear Sweater: Issey Miyaki

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

ILITH THROUGH LOVEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;SEYES Photography - Luke Harris

Styling - Sarah Zhang

Model - Jessica Hutchings

Shirt Dress: Vivienne Westwood Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Of Adamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first wife, Lilith, it is told (The witch he loved before the gift of Eve,) That, ere the snakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, her sweet tongue could deceive, And her enchanted hair was the first gold. And still she sits, young while the earth is old, And, subtly of herself contemplative, Draws men to watch the bright web she can weave, Till heart and body and life are in its hold. 43

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Opposite page: Leather Shoes: Comme des Garcon, White Shoes: Louis Vuiton This Page: Shirt: Miu Miu Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

Opposite Page: Shirt: same as before, This Page: Dress: Dolce & Gabbanna, Boots Marc Jacobs

This in my dreams is shown me; and her hair Crosses my lips and draws my burning breath; Her song spreads golden wings upon the air, Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyes are gleaming from her forehead fair, And from her breasts the ravishing eyes of Death. Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

In the soft dell, among the apple-trees, High up above the hidden pit she stands, And there for ever sings, who gave to these, That lie below, her magic hour of ease, And those her apples holden in their hands.

Lace Dress: Isabele Marant

Petit Dejuner Inspired Illustration Candy Choi & Luke Harris

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

CON VERS ATIONS

ON CREATIVE PROCESS & PERSONAL CAREER

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

SOPHIE CALLE ON HER CREATIVE PROCESS

Luke Harris: So what exactly would you call yourself? Sophie Calle: I call myself nothing, though I feel like an artist in the sense that I try to put together stories. Luke:Being internationally known, with installations of texts and photographs having been shown in galleries and museums worldwide, inspirations to many, would it be presumptuous to consider yourself one of the best French conceptual artists? Sophie: Not an artist, more part detective and part anthropologist, expressed within the medium of art. I don’t paint or draw or sculpt, nor do I exactly make things or make things up. Instead I work best with what has become almost a trademark: a combination of image and text. The images tend to be documentary-style photographs, and the text is narrative, explanatory and very personal, even when its about someone else. Perhaps my best-known work - certainly the one that established my reputation as an artist - is a 1980 piece called ‘Suite Venitienne’. It was a series of photographs and notes detailing the movements of a stranger who I followed around Venice for two months. Luke: What makes you follow strangers? Sophie: I started following them before talking to them, mainly because I didn’t know what to do with my life. I was in Paris, without a job or any real energy to decide where to go in the morning, so I started to shadow people. Then I was taken by the pleasure of it and started to take photos and notes without consciously knowing why. Luke: Didn’t you get frightened? Sophie: I find that establishing rules and following them is restful. If you follow someone, you don’t have to wonder where you’re going to eat. They take you to their restaurant. The choice is made for you Luke: Often your work is also autobiographical rather than just focusing on the lives of strangers, why did you wait so long to publish Exquisite Pain? Sophie: For those who don’t know Exquisite Pain, it is about a lover of mine leaving in January 1985, and my emotional response and recovery process. Then I documented the answers that friends and strangers me to the

question: “When did you suffer most?” The reason I took so long to publish was because I felt it was too personal, too dangerous. Luke: For someone who has published works including such things as; a photograph of your bare breasts, with a note explaining how they developed and a shoe that a colleague used to try and poke your eyes out with you worked as a striptease artist. How is anything too personal? Sophie: It was because although I always knew Exquisite Pain was an artistic project, the first gesture of it was about how I could suffer less. And it worked so well - the project completely healed me - that I didn’t want to touch it. And then I grew comfortable with having it as a project on the side. It helped to protect me against the fear of emptiness. Whatever happened, if I finished another project or had no more ideas, I could always go back to working on Exquisite Pain. I felt that if I used it, then I would be without a safety net, now I have other safety nets [She smiles, then pops a raspberry into her mouth]. Luke: What has been one of your more enjoyable projects? Sophie: I quite enjoyed ‘Double Game’’, to take on aspects of a character who was based on me felt like I was creating my own particular mixture of reality and fiction, as Paul had done with ‘Leviathan’ [here referring to Maria Turner, a New York artist ‘’whose work had nothing to do with creating objects commonly defined as art”. In the 1992 novel, ‘’Leviathan,’’ by Paul Auster]. Maria’s ‘Monochromatic Diet’ was quite interesting to re-enacted in order to ‘become’ her. During ‘Red’ I found myself eating Tomatoes, Steak Tartare, Pomegranates, Roasted red peppers and pomegranates, which was nice. What I enjoyed much more was the Lalande de Pomerol, Domaine de Viaund, 1990! Ultimately the work, ending being an interesting play on the Modernism fascination with the monochrome, and exposed the tenuous boundary between my life and my work, reality and fiction.

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

MICHEL ROUX JR. ON HIS PERSONAL CAREER

Candy Choi: Let’s start at the beginning. So You have decided to become a chef at a very young age. Michel Roux Jr: Yes, You could say that I was almost born in the kitchen as my mother went into labor whilst helping my father at work in his restaurant. All my childhood was spent in or around food and it was only normal for me to become a chef. I can’t imagine doing anything else. Candy: It just seems the most natural thing that you went into the family business at La Gavroche. Michel: Yeah, but I have to admit that I did have doubts about joining the family business. When I was young, I just thought that La Gavorche wasn’t my style. Candy: But still, you took over management in 1994. It must have been difficult, following ye our father. Michel: Definitely. They were big boots to fill. Partly due to my father not wanting to let go.I have got the same problems now: being able to let go & delegate. Thankfully I have a very good team. Partly due to the difference in cookery style between me & my father. He is the classical- bourgeoise chef, while I always want to be more inventive- to offer something new as well as the classic dishes which had made the restaurant famous without sacrificing any of the quality; to make the service more ‘client-friendly’ without losing its professionalism or efficiency. Candy: Well, one of the rules of family businiess is that sons always want to do things differently from the ways their fathers did them. And fathers always insist on interfering after they have officially retired. Has it been true at La Gavorche? Did he approve of your style? Michel: No, no & no. Well, maybe a bit, but not as much now as at first, & not necessarily. And yes, I think he does approve, he still eats here regularly, and he always says exactly what he wants to say.

Candy: Oh I see. By the way, you seem to be pretty relaxed about getting that 3rd michelin star. Michel: Well, if they offer it, of course I wouldn’t say no, but I am not actively going for it. Three stars can be like cooking in handcuffs. the discipline of maintaining exactly the same standards in exactly the same dishes can become very boring. I like to experiment. & I am pretty easy on it if they offer me the 3rd star, and take it away a while later just because I am too experimental for the conservative taste. Candy: So you would probably need inspiration for your experiments very often. Where do you usually get your inspiration from? Michel: For inspiration, I run marathons. It’s my hobby. It helps to keep me fit, mentally stable & above all makes me hungry! Candy: Oh wow, that’s quite an interesting & healthy way of getting inspirations. Most people get inspirations from cigarettes & alcohol. Michel: Yeah, true, I don’t get inspiration from alcohol, but I do love it. I enjoy Krug champagne at weekend so much. It is also extremely important to enjoy food with the right type of wine. Candy: Speaking of food & wine, your book Matching Food & Wine was highly successful, and has even won the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2003. Michel: Ah, yeah, haha, the success it had did take me by surprise though. Candy: Well, maybe it’s a surprise for you, but I have to say that it is a very comprehensive book about the matching of food & wine. Michel: [ Laughs] Thanks

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

IN THIS ISSUE:

American Apperel Alexander Flick Azzaro Balenciaga le dix Candy Choi Celine Chanel Chloe Christian Laboutin Comme Des Garcons Diane Von Furstenburg Dina Dayupay Donncha Rahill Dolce & Gabbana Efia White Ghost Gwen Whateley Hussein Chalayan Isabele Marant Issey Miyake Jean Paul Gaultier Jessica Belle Hutchings Kurt Geiger Laduree Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luke Harris Marc Jacobs Miu Miu Michel Roux Jr Metro Deco Prada Rossana Araujo Sarah Zhang Second Floor Studios Sophie Calle Stela McCartney Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent Valentino Vivienne Westwood

www.americanapperel.net editor- alex-flick@selfservice.ner Paris 33 1 42 66 92 98 Paris 33 1 47 20 21 11 Candy-Choi@selfservice.com Paris 33 1 56 89 07 91 Paris 33 1 56 89 07 91 Paris 33 1 44 94 33 00 Paris 33 1 42 68 79 04 Paris 33 1 53 30 27 27 Paris 33 1 44 39 80 00 Storm Models.com donncharahill@hotmail.com Paris 33 1 47 29 42 43 efiawhite@selfservice.com Paris 33 1 67 36 46 97 IMG models Paris 33 1 55 35 33 90 Paris 33 1 49 29 71 55 Paris 33 1 48 87 01 86 Paris 33 1 44 68 84 80 Storm Models www.kurtgeiger.com Paris 33 1 66 75 42 91 www.lanvin.com Paris 33 1 53 57 52 00 Luke_lah@selfservice.com Paris 33 1 47 20 13 076 Paris 33 1 58 62 53 20 bookings@le-gavroche.com Info@metro-deco.com Paris 33 1 53 23 99 40 r.araujo@rossanaaraujo.com sarah_z@selfservice.com mail@thesecondfloorstudio.com pa@sophiecalle.com Paris 33 1 49 54 60 60 Paris 33 1 42 21 42 93 Paris 33 1 56 62 64 00 www.valentino.com www.viviennewestwood.co.uk

Self Service Spring/Summer 2011 - Self Catering - supplement issue 01

London 44 207 499 4002 London Koh Samui 44 207 836 9434

New York 1 212 496 7654

London 44 207 493 5040 London 44 207 730 1234 London 44 208 823 5348 London 44 207 434 2567 London 44 207 235 5000 London Harrods 44 207 493 1258 London 44 207 235 500 London 44 07 5 94 05 620 London 44 207 376 7764

New York 1 212 486 9701 New York 1 212 292 9000 New York 1 212 717 8220 New York 1 212 717 8220 New York 1 212 931 2000 New York 1 212 604 9200 New York 1 212 334 4964

London 44 207 201 0980 London 44 208 561 1861 London 44 208 233 6770 London 44 207 235 5000 London Whistles 44 207 514 0063 London 44 207 581 9928 London 44 207 376 7764

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