Ho Chi Minh City travel guide Hold on - Ho Chi Minh City is a metropolis that is going places. It’s the flourishing fast-mover that’s somehow secured old Saigon onto the seat of its shiny, new motorbike as it roars off into the future. It’s the mesmerising gateway to Vietnam where traditional and modern influences live side by side. High-rises loom over shabby French colonial villas; conical-hatted street vendors plod past karaoke bars and glitzy shops. Like the bamboo, shoulder-pole baskets you’ll see on the streets, Ho Chi Minh City is a balancing act of two parts: classical incense-filled pagodas are off-set by shopping malls and skyscrapers that wouldn't look out of place in the West. It's a forward-looking city but still locals refer to it as Saigon, a name evocative of the past. One of the city's most poignant symbols is the Reunification Palace, where the last days of the Vietnam War were played out. Saigon's story, however, was penned long before the American army waded in. Just wander around the beautiful Jade Emperor Pagoda, built by the Chinese in 1909, or search out Saigon Central Post Office for some grandiose French architecture. Few visitors get further than Districts 1 and 3, home to the Independence Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral and Ben Thanh Market, but rambling Binh Tay Market in Cho Lon (Chinatown) is worth discovering too. For a total contrast head out to Phu My Hung, known as South Saigon, where wide streets, smart villas, condominiums and manicured parkland appear to have been transplanted from California. Elsewhere, pavements teem with street vendors, barbers and dentists. Families perch on tiny plastic chairs tucking into bowls of pho. Roads bawl with a solid phalanx of two-wheeled traffic; bikes piled high with furniture and livestock.
Ho Chi Minh City History The city formerly known as Saigon has a bloody place in 20th century history. After becoming the capital of South Vietnam following the country’s division in the wake of the defeat of French colonialists, Saigon was the focus of much attention during America’s fight with Communist North Vietnam in the 1960s and 1970s. It was in Saigon where monk Thich Quang Duc burned himself to death in protest at the persecution of Buddhists in Catholic–controlled South Vietnam. His actions shone an international light on the country and led to the removal of President Diem. America’s war, however, was only just getting underway. Throughout the Vietnam War, Saigon was seen as a safe hub for U.S. soldiers and government contractors. But when the city finally fell to the North Vietnamese in 1975, the gates of the Presidential Palace smashed by tanks, residents clamoured to leave with the last U.S. residents, many clinging to helicopters taking off from the roof of the American embassy. The following year, Saigon’s name was changed to Ho Chi Minh City, named after the famed leader of the north, its status as capital city lost to Hanoi. The name Saigon, however, continues to be used by many Vietnamese to refer to the city. There is so much more to Ho Chi Minh City than its place at the heart of the Vietnam War though. Ruled over by Chinese and Khmer settlers and colonised by the French and Spanish in the 19th century, this is a city now proud of its independence from outside powers. Following the Vietnamese government’s 1986 policy of doi moi which saw the economy opened up over ten years after the end of the war, Ho Chi Minh City began to boom. With locals able to run their own businesses and Chinese money flowing into the city, Saigon has become one of South East Asia’s most vibrant metropolises, its skyscrapers and bustling streets a sign of this city’s will to overcome the worst adversity. Did you know? • The U.S. military held daily press conferences, known as ‘5pm Follies’, at the upscale Rex Hotel. • Saigon only became one city in 1955, when it was merged with neighbouring Cholon. • Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam from 1954-1975.
Weather in Ho Chi Minh City Best time to visit: Ho Chi Minh City is a year-round destination. The rainy season falls between May and October but showers are normally over in a couple of hours. In the run-up to the rainy season, the humidity increases dramatically and sightseeing can be quite exhausting. During the dry season (November until April), temperatures can lurch as high as 39째C (102째F) but usually average 28째C (82째F). The Mid-Autumn Festival (held on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, usually September) can be quite a spectacle but hotels are often full.
Getting around Ho Chi Minh City Public transport: Public transport in Ho Chi Minh City is becoming more developed as the government tries to tackle rising traffic congestion. The bus service is improving, with over 150 routes across the city (tel: +84 8 3854 6110; www.saigonbus.com.vn). You can buy tickets for single journeys on the bus. Pick up a route map from Ben Thanh bus station on Tran Hung Dao Street, the main hub in the city.
Taxis: There are several taxi companies operating within the city and they are usually metered. Visitors are advised to check that the meter is turned on. Tipping is not necessarily expected but always welcome. Reputable taxi companies are Mai Linh Taxi (tel: +84 8 3838 3838) and Vinataxi (tel: +84 8 3811 1111). Motorbike taxis (xe om) are available across the city and are an efficient way to travel around. Motorbike taxis usually approach tourists and offer their services. Negotiate a price first and also make sure the driver provides you with a helmet. If one is not offered, find another motorbike taxi as the police will inevitably give you a hefty fine.
Driving: Most visitors to Ho Chi Minh City are quite traumatised when they encounter the traffic for the first time. The streets are crammed with darting bicycles and motorbikes. Bikes regularly travel the wrong way along one-way streets and appear out of side roads without even a cursory glance in the direction of the oncoming traffic. Motorbike riders remove their wing mirrors allowing them to squeeze through the smallest gaps. Happily, visitors are only allowed to hire cars with drivers.
Car hire: It is not possible to hire a car without a driver but cars with English-speaking drivers can be arranged through travel companies. The following companies can arrange a car with a driver for the day: Ben Thanh Tourist Co (tel: +84 8 3822 7788; www.benthanhtourist.com), Saigontourist Travel Service (tel: +84 9 0928 4554; www.saigontourist.net) and Vidotour (tel: +84 8 3933 0457;www.vidotourtravel.com). Travelling by motorbike is also a popular option, but Ho Chi Minh City is not the place to learn how to ride. Wearing a helmet is compulsory. You can hire motorbikes and scooters, along with helmets, from the Saigon Scooter Centre (tel: +84 8 3848 7816; www.saigonscootercentre.com).
Bicycle hire: A popular place for hiring bicycles is around the Pham Ngu Lao area, which is the backpacker hangout. Bicycles should always be parked in the areas set aside for them (gui xe). It is always worth taking a padlock for additional security. Further out in District 7, Saigon Cycles (tel: +84 8 5410 3114;www.xedapcaocap.com) has bicycles for rent on a daily, weekly or longer basis. If you don’t want to do the pedalling, a leisurely way to explore the city is by cyclo, where the passenger sits in front and driver behind. They can be found plying the tourist areas, but make sure you settle on a price in advance.
Things to see in Ho Chi Minh City
Buu Dien Trung Tam (Post Office) Across from the Notre Dame Cathedral, the vast Post Office was built in the late 19th century in a European style. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, it is often likened to a railway station in appearance, but the elegant, high-ceilinged interior has hardly been touched since it was erected and is dominated by a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh. Even its original phone booths still remain in place. Also of interest are two maps on the walls dating from 1892, one depicting Saigon and the surrounding areas. The building always seems busy but most people are visitors rather than customers. Fascinating collections of colourful stamps can be purchased here too. Opening Times: Mon-Fri 0700-1900; Sat-Sun 0730-1800. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 2 Cong Xa Paris, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3822 1677.
Chua Ngoc Hoang (Jade Emperor Pagoda)
The Jade Emperor Pagoda is one of the most attractive pagodas in the city and was built in 1909 by the Cantonese community. Dedicated to various Chinese-Vietnamese divinities, in a mixture of Taoist and Buddhist styles, the pagoda houses numerous statues and delicate woodcarvings with intricate tiles on the roof. A statue of the Jade Emperor himself dominates the proceedings from his position on the pagoda’s main altar. The interior is full of the smells from incense spirals hanging down from the ceiling and the altars are richly decorated. There is a pleasant courtyard with a pond full of tortoises. Opening Times: Daily 0700-1800. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 73 Mai Thi Luu, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3820 3102.
Dinh Thong Nhat (Reunification Palace) The Reunification Palace is beautiful in its ugliness, a 1960s monstrosity designed with the help of Soviet architects. Most people will remember the image of a North Vietnamese tank crashing through the gates on 30 April 1975, signifying the fall of Saigon. The tank still graces the front lawn. Rooms open to the public remain exactly as they were in 1975, showing where important meetings were held during the war, as well as some of the private quarters of the president and his family. Most fascinating are a series of underground tunnels housing a telecommunications centre as well as a video about the history of the palace. Opening Times: Daily 0730-1100 and 1300-1600. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Unesco: No Address: 135 Nam Ky Khoi Ngia, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3822 3652. Website: http://www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn
Giac Lam Pagoda Located 3km (2 miles) from Cholon, the Giac Lam Pagoda is a place of calm in this often hectic metropolis. Dating from 1744, it is believed to be the oldest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City. The pagoda is surrounded by a tranquil walled garden and there is a seven-storey stupa storing relics of the Buddha. Families of the old and sick regularly go to the pagoda to pin supplications to the large bronze bell, in the belief that when it is rung, the messages will be sent to the heavens above. Time your visit right and you may find yourself witnessing the monks chanting. Remember to always dress respectfully with shoulders covered. Opening Times: Daily 0600-1145 and 1315-1900. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 118 Lac Long Quan, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3865 3933.
Ho Chi Minh City Museum Housed in the former building of the Government of Cochinchina, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum (formerly the Revolutionary Museum) contains artefacts such as weapons, uniforms, medals and old photos, from the period of Communist struggle against the French and the Americans. Unfortunately, the exhibits are only labelled in Vietnamese but some are self-explanatory. Outside the museum is a collection of military hardware including a tank and a helicopter. Built in a classical style in the late 1880s, the museum building itself is of interest as it was formerly the palace of the governor of Cochinchina and the Supreme Court. Opening Times: Daily 0800-1700. Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 65 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3829 9741. Website: www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn
Notre Dame Cathedral The twin towers of the beautiful, red-brick Notre Dame Cathedral have been a familiar landmark in Ho Chi Minh City since the 1880s. In a small garden in front of the cathedral lies a delicate statue of the Virgin Mary. Unlike most French cathedrals, the interior of the cathedral is rather plain, with no stained glass, but it offers a cool respite from the heat outside. It is also an oasis of calm from the incessant traffic that circles the cathedral. There is still a significant Christian community in the south of Vietnam and church services are well attended. Opening Times: Daily 0530-1700. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 1 Cong Xa Paris, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3822 0477.
Saigon Skydeck A recent attraction in the city is Saigon Skydeck, an observation platform on the Bitexco Financial Tower, which at a height of 262m (860ft), is the tallest building in Ho Chi Minh City. Inspired by the shape of a lotus bud (the Vietnamese national flower), the glass and steel building symbolises the new Vietnam. The observation deck on the 49th floor offers stunning views of the city and Saigon River. Helpful information boards pinpoint landmarks around the city and the views at night are particularly romantic with all the lights of the city twinkling. Opening Times: Daily 0930-2130 (last entry 2045). Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Unesco: No Address: 36 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3915 6868. Website: www.saigonskydeck.com
Vien Bao Tang Lich Su (Historical Museum) Located just inside the entrance to the Botanical Gardens and Zoo, the Historical Museum houses a collection of artefacts covering the last 2,000 years of Vietnamese history, including items belonging to ancient cultures such as Dong Son, Oc Eo and Cham. Collections run right up until 1945 and include ceramics, weapons and Cham sculptures as well as a wing devoted to ethnic minorities. The museum was built in 1929 and the collection was assembled by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient. It is worth hiring a guide with you around the museum as the labelling is poor and it can be a little difficult to understand the significance of the exhibits. Opening Times: Tue-Sun 0800-1130 and 1330-1700. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Unesco: No Address: Nguyen Binh Khiem, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3829 8146. Website: www.baotanglichsuvn.com
War Remnants Museum This is not a museum for the sensitive as it houses instruments of torture and hundreds of photographs of atrocities committed during the 20th century and, in particular, the Vietnam War. Visitors cannot fail to be moved as the exhibits provide a context for a period of history many only know from old newsreels and Hollywood movies, including the My Lai massacre. At the front of the museum is a small collection of military hardware including tanks and aircrafts and, most interestingly, the mobile guillotine used by the French colonists to dispense justice throughout the country before WWII. Opening Times: Daily 0730-1200 and 1330-1700. Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: No Unesco: No Address: 28 Vo Van Tan, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3930 5587. Website: warremnantsmuseum.com
Thao Cam Vien (Zoo and Botanical Gardens) The Botanical Gardens were established by the French in 1864 and once had the reputation of being some of the finest in Asia. The area is still pleasant for a stroll in the heart of the city, thanks to its fine collection of tropical plants and trees, and is particularly popular with Vietnamese families. It often has entertainment at the weekend. The zoo is not up to Western standards, but many of the animals and birds are housed in better enclosures than they once were. The zoo also now has its own conservation programme. Visit in the afternoon to watch the animals being fed. Opening Times: Daily 0700-1800. Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: Yes Unesco: No Address: Nguyen Binh Khiem, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3829 1425. Website: www.saigonzoo.net
Things to do in Ho Chi Minh City Make a splash in the city by learning to dive Not the most obvious thing to do in a major city, but Ho Chi Minh City is a good place to get the entry level PADI course under your belt. Rainbow Divers (tel: (09) 1340 8146; www.divevietnam.com) is the place to take the plunge, so to speak, and it means you won’t waste any upcoming beach time with theory exercises and swimming pool activities. Alternatively, just take a morning out for a Try Dive to see if you like it.
Learn to cook Vietnamese food Vietnamese cuisine is known for its delicate flavours and beautiful presentation, so what better way to learn more about the local food than by cooking it yourself. The fun starts early as you head to the market to buy the fresh ingredients and enjoy banter with the market sellers. Then you’ll work with the chef at Saigon Cooking School (tel: (08) 3825 8485; www.saigoncookingclass.com) to prepare lunch and eat what you have produced.
Play a round of golf Golf is big business across Asia, and Vietnam is no exception, with several golf courses close to Ho Chi Minh City. The nearest course to the city is the Vietnam Golf and Country Club (tel: (08) 6280 0103;www.vietnamgolfcc.com) in Long Thanh My Ward, 20km (12 miles) from the centre. One of its two 18-hole golf courses was designed by US golfing ace Lee Trevino, and visitors can play both during the week and at weekends, as well as make use of the on-site driving range.
Go swimming in a huge water park When the Ho Chi Minh City heat gets too much, head to the Dam Sen Water Park (tel: (08) 3858 8418);www.damsenwaterpark.com.vn/en) on Hoa Binh Street in District 11. The popular attraction, set in landscaped gardens, has giant water slides, a river ride and wave pool, and for the less adventurous there is the wandering river and a massage pool. The water park is particularly popular at weekends and in the holidays when there are performances to amuse the kids.
Shopping in Ho Chi Minh City Shopping in Ho Chi Minh City is pure joy for avid souvenir hunters and shopaholics. Whatever your budget, make sure you have plenty of space in your luggage as you are sure to fill it whether you bargain hunt at the city’s many markets or browse the small, traditional shops that are still found in the main shopping areas. Alternatively, you can splurge in the high-class and international designer boutiques that have mushroomed in recent years, but don’t leave without having some clothes made to measure.
Key areas: Many shops are found along Dong Khoi but close by are Hai Ba Trung, Le Thanh Ton and Le Loi, which are also worth a look. For silk clothes and accessories try Khoi Silk at 107 Dong Khoi.
Markets: Busy Ben Thanh Market on Le Loi is crammed with inexpensive but quality clothes and souvenirs. In the evening, a night market opens outside the building including dozens of food stalls. Binh Tay Market in Cholon throngs with people from early morning until early evening, and the gloomy, narrow walkways are crammed with consumer items and exotic foodstuffs.
Shopping centres: There are now several very smart shopping malls in the city including Diamond Plaza on Le Duan and Parkson Saigontourist Plaza on Le Thanh Ton.
Opening hours: Shops are generally open seven days a week from around 0800 until between 2000 and 2200.
Souvenirs: Silk clothes and accessories, in particular handbags, are readily available as are beautifully made hand-embroidered items. Lacquerware is extremely good value and the traditional designs are now complemented by some funky new patterns. Colourful woven bags are always a good buy as is clothing made by the hill tribes of the Central Highlands.
Tax information: VAT is included on most items sold and 10% is the standard. As part of a pilot scheme, foreign visitors are able to claim 85% of that VAT back at the airport for purchases of VND2million and over. Ask in the shop if they are registered for the scheme, which has been extended from 1 July 2014.
Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City offer a rich selection, ranging from bargain basement affairs and street side stalls to haute cuisine. The Ho Chi Minh City restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three different pricing categories: Expensive (over US$35) Moderate (US$20 to US$35) Cheap (under US$20) These Ho Chi Minh City restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for one, including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent, tax and service. A tip of 10% is customary.
Mandarine Price: Expensive Cuisine: Vietnamese A delightful oasis of calm, close to the Saigon River, this elegant, award-winning restaurant serves some of the best Vietnamese food in the city. All come exquisitely presented, as does the interior, which is tastefully decorated in a Vietnamese style. Only the freshest of ingredients are used for the dishes which include spicy sautéed beef served in a bamboo tube. Reservations are recommended. Address: 11a Ngo Van Nam, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3822 9783. Website: www.orientalsaigon.com.vn/mandarine
La Villa Price: Expensive Cuisine: French Staff are very attentive at this award-winning restaurant, where you can dine in the sumptuous interior of the delightful villa or eat outside by the pool. The chef uses fresh produce from the local market to create fine, French cuisine for a menu that changes daily. Treat yourself to the lightlyseared tuna cubes with marjoram oil or go all out and have the tasting menu. Either way, you won’t be disappointed. There’s even a very impressive cigar list to round things off. Address: 14 Ngo Quang Huy, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3898 2082. Website: www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn
Au Manoir de Khai Price: Expensive Cuisine: French This very stylish French colonial villa, built in the early 1900s, now houses an exquisite restaurant serving arguably the finest French cuisine in Ho Chi Minh City. The intriguing black and white décor is very French and chic, while the service is impeccable. Enjoy a glass of champagne at the sumptuous bar, or sample a bottle of plonk from the extensive wine list, before splurging on the excellent panfried lobster, prawns and scallops, which all comes beautifully presented. Au Manoir de Khai is worth every cent. Address: 251 Dien Bien Phu, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Telephone: (08) 3930 3394. Website: www.khaisilkcorp.com/restaurants/aumanoirdekhai
The Deck Price: Moderate Cuisine: Asian, International Arrive in style by boat at this riverside restaurant, which offers a pure escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, just 15 minutes away. This stylish, modern restaurant, where you can dine indoors or on the deck, serves contemporary Asian and international fusion cuisine such as herb crusted tuna with curried papaya. The Deck is perfect for a leisurely breakfast, a long lazy lunch or a relaxed evening meal with friends. Address: 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, An Phu, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3744 6632. Website: www.thedecksaigon.com
Hoa Tuc Price: Moderate Cuisine: Vietnamese Set in a former opium factory, Hoa Tuc makes the most of this delightful colonial-era building by serving up delicious Vietnamese meals with a contemporary twist. The lovely outdoor space, which includes wrought iron furniture surrounded by greenery, is a bit of a hideaway and a great place to meet up with friends. Try something a little different here, such as soft shell crabs in green rice batter with a passion fruit sauce. Dinner reservations are essential. Address: 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3825 1676. Website: www.hoatuc.com
Au Lac do Brazil Price: Moderate Cuisine: Brazilian Serious carnivores with a hearty appetite need to check out Au Lac do Brazil at least once during their trip. This all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbecue forks out different cuts of meat (including beef, pork, chicken, sausage and shrimp) directly at your table. Keep going until you indicate you can't eat any more by turning your coaster over to red to indicate you are full. If you still have space, try their signature passion fruit mousse. Address: 238 Pasteur, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3820 7157. Website: www.aulacdobrazil.com
Quan Ngon Price: Cheap Cuisine: Vietnamese Designed to reflect an authentic Vietnamese village, there’s a slew of food stalls serving up a range of traditional Vietnamese dishes at very reasonable prices. Wander around and look at what is being cooked before making your selection. Located in a lovely colonial villa, this place buzzes with activity and is popular with both locals and visitors. Dine indoors or al fresco and let the friendly, helpful staff help you choose what to eat. Address: 160 Pasteur, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3827 7131.
Pho 24 Price: Cheap Cuisine: Vietnamese Pho 24 serves hearty, delicious traditional beef noodle soup (pho) in a smart, clean location. This is just one of a chain that dishes up the Vietnamese equivalent of fast food across the city and country. It is very popular for visitors who want to try the traditional Vietnamese dish but are reluctant to eat at one of the street stalls. It’s also excellent value for money and popular with the locals. If you really love their grub, they sell instant noodle pot gifts as well.
Address: 82 Nguyen Du, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3827 4950. Website: www.pho24.com.vn
Al Fresco's Price: Cheap Cuisine: American Serving good, old-fashioned American fare (think: burgers, sizzling steaks, Tex-Mex food, pizza, pasta, ice creams, freshly baked cakes and tropical fruits), in relaxed Aussie-style surroundings, Al Fresco’s is best known for its fall-off-the-bone BBQ ribs . A family favourite with a casual vibe, this eatery (one of seven branches across the city) is great for those wanting western food that doesn’t break the bank. It is open for hearty breakfasts as well, making it the perfect start to the day. Address: 27 Dong Du, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3823 8424 Website: www.alfrescos.com.vn/hochiminh
Ho Chi Minh City Nightlife Ho Chi Minh City is awash with clubs and bars, varying from tiny, gloomy establishments to some very upmarket venues. Most of the nightlife in Ho Chi Minh City’s concentrated in District 1. Imported drinks are considerably more expensive than local ones and alcohol sold in the more exclusive places is even more expensive again. The dress code is generally very relaxed with no restrictions on jeans or trainers. Information on Ho Chi Minh City's nightlife can be found in The Guide, published monthly by the Vietnam Economic Times (www.vneconomy.com.vn). Most tickets are available direct from the venue, but Vietnam’s first ticket agency, Ticketbox (www.ticketbox.vn), sells online tickets to some events.
Bars in Ho Chi Minh City Alto Heli Bar The Alto Heli Bar is one of the smartest places in town - as well as one of the highest. You’ll find it on the 52nd floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower, which dominates the city’s skyline. The strange platform seen extending from the building is the helipad, hence the bar’s name. Drinks are a little pricey, but the views across the city are priceless. There’s a great choice of beers, spirits and cocktails, plus DJs playing on the weekend. Address: 36 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 6291 8752 Website: bitexcofinancialtower.com
Sky Bar The Sky Bar may not be the trendiest place in town, but it a laidback choice with a good selection of cold drinks on offer. Enjoy a quiet one with great views over the Saigon River from its spot on the 5th floor of the colonial Majestic Hotel, where the open terrace allows drinkers to watch the busy, intriguing river traffic, particularly the ferries crammed full of cycles, motorbikes and people. In the evenings, observe the brightly-lit cruise boats as they glide on by. Address: 1 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3829 5517. Website: www.majesticsaigon.vn
The Spotted Cow If you don’t want to miss out on those all-important sporting events, head to ‘The Cow’, as it’s known locally, to catch all the major games. Premier League football, Formula 1 and the NFL are streamed live on large TVs here, and with a slew of drinks specials always on offer, there’s little chance you’ll want to move on. The black and white bovine themed décor is fun too at this Aussie-run joint. Address: 111 Bui Vien, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3920 7670. Website: alfrescosgroup.com/cms/spotted-cow-hcm-concept
Clubs in Ho Chi Minh City
International Tourist Club The International Tourist Club is a well-established entertainment complex located in an annex of the New World Hotel. It’s famed for the Catwalk Club, which boasts private, hi-tech private karaoke rooms with their own DJs, a Singsation open lounge karaoke area, plus a chill out room for those looking to relax. It’s all stylised with chic, chintzy décor, some comfy sofas and chairs and an array of drinks on the menu. Check out the big hits in the Live Zone where professional singers and bands play songs on request or have a flutter in Chats, the in-house casino that’s open 24 hours a day. Address: 76 Le Lai, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3824 3760. Website: www.itclubsaigon.com
Lush This contemporary spot pumps out hip hop, electro and house music on a state of the art sound system as the preened and pretty of the Ho chi Minh City set dance away late into the night. If the action below all gets a little too much, there are sofas upstairs to chill out on, plus two garden areas and a bustling outdoor bar where ravers can still enjoy the music. Address: 2 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3824 2496. Website: www.lush.vn
The Observatory Fancy partying the night away? Head for The Observatory, where the DJs have made quite an impact on the city’s cultural scene since it opened its doors in 2011. This is probably the trendiest venue in town at the moment thanks to the big name music stars that gig here from time to time. It’s all about cool house and electronic vibes, but when it gets a bit too hot on the dancefloor, head out to the balcony and enjoy the cooling city breeze. Address: Le Lai & Ton That Tung, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3925 9415.
Live Music in Ho Chi Minh City
Hard Rock Café It’s difficult to miss the location of this world famous franchise restaurant, bar and live music venue just look for the large, neon-lit guitar on the street. Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls here with clothing worn by John Lennon, Rod Steward and Jimi Hendrix. It’s the house bands and happy hours that attract repeat customers, though, as nightly music swings from retro records to contemporary tunes. The burgers are pretty decent too. Address: Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 6291 7595. Website: www.hardrock.com/cafes/ho-chi-minh-city
Park Lounge Several of the larger hotels host local and international performers and this includes the Park Lounge in the Park Hyatt, which holds concerts each night. One of the smarter addresses in Ho Chi Minh City, dress up to enjoy an evening in this venue, where the dĂŠcor is inspired by the French colonial era with floor to ceiling windows and elegant wooden shutters. Address: 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3824 1234. Website: www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Sax n'Art Jazz Club Nightly performances by saxophonist, local jazz musician and owner of the club, Tran Manh Tuan, are extremely popular because of his blend of contemporary jazz with traditional Vietnamese influences. Sax n'Art Jazz Club is a small venue with an intimate, relaxed ambience and boasts regular appearances from international guest artists. Arguably, though, the most special is when Tuan’s daughter plays alongside her father. Address: 28 Le Loi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3822 8472. Website: www.saxnart.com
Classical Music in Ho Chi Minh City
Opera House The Opera House is a beautiful colonial building dating from 1899 and is home to the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet, Symphony Orchestra and Opera. It has undergone a serious upgrade recently and features a state-of-the-art light and sound system. It has regular performances and occasional shows by international classical artists and also features dance and music performances. For an exciting taste of new Vietnam, make sure you catch the fabulous AO show, a truly breathtaking performance that combines circus and dance - with a twist. Address: 7 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3823 7419. Website: www.hbso.org.vn
Dance in Ho Chi Minh City
Binh Quoi Tourist Village Get away from the hustle and bustle of the city to this popular resort located outside the city on the Saigon River. The Binh Quoi Tourist Village hosts regular traditional music and dance shows, the highlight of which is a re-enactment of a minority wedding. The spacious landscaped gardens are perfect to explore too and it’s great fun to watch the local families enjoying themselves. At the weekend there is a traditional buffet in the waterside restaurant which is atmospheric after dark when floating lanterns drift past. Address: 1147 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3556 6057.
Cunh Ding Restaurant There is a particularly good dance show during dinner at the Cung Dinh Restaurant in the Rex Hotel, with folk dancing accompanied by traditional instruments, such as the Trung used by the country's ethnic minorities. The menu features imperial dishes from Hanoi and Huáşż as well as Ho Chi Minh City, with vegetables intricately carved in the form of birds and animals, and the restaurant is decorated in the style of a royal court. Reservations are advised as it is popular with visiting dignitaries. Address: 141 Nguyen Hue, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3829 2185. Website: www.rexhotelvietnam.com
Theatre in Ho Chi Minh City Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre Vietnam is famous for its water puppets and Ho Chi Minh City has its own water puppet theatre with daily performances that last around 50 minutes. Water puppetry originated in the Red River Delta in the north of Vietnam and was performed by rice farmers. Traditional stories and scenes are performed by the puppets accompanied by musicians wearing conventional costumes and a Vietnamese narrator. The Water Puppet Theatre is a must-see for all visitors to the city. Address: 55bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Telephone: (08) 3930 2196. Website: www.goldendragonwaterpuppet.com
Travel to Ho Chi Minh City Flying to Ho Chi Minh City There are no direct flights to Ho Chi Minh City from the UK, but you can fly to Hanoi with Vietnam Airlines and take a connecting flight from there or change at other cities in the region, such as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Hong Kong. Travellers flying from the USA also need to change planes at least once. The best time to travel is during the dry season between December to March, though you may find cheaper deals at other times of year.
Flight times: From London - 15 hours (including stopover); New York - 20 hours (including stopover); Los Angeles 18 hours (including stopover); Toronto - 21 hours (including stopover); Sydney - 9 hours.
Travel by road Summary: The road network throughout Vietnam is reasonable but the standard of the roads varies dramatically from good to appalling. In theory, traffic drives on the right but in practice drivers take the most direct path to avoid obstacles and oncoming vehicles. As car hire is non-existent, visitors to the country tend to go for the easiest option of hiring a car with a driver.
Emergency breakdown service: None.
Routes: Highway 1 travels the length of the country from the very south to Hanoi. Major towns in the south ofVietnam on Highway 1 are My Tho, Can Tho, Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Dalat is reached by Highway 20, Vung Tau by Highway 51 and the Cambodian border (Moc Bai) by Highway 22.
Driving times: From My Tho - 1 hour 30 minutes; Vung Tau - 2 hours; Cambodian border - 2 hours 30 minutes; Phan Thiet - 3 hours 30 minutes; Can Tho - 4 hours 30 minutes; Dalat - 7 hours; Nha Trang - 12 hours.
Coaches: Buses throughout Vietnam range from fairly good to ramshackle. Some express services to Phnom Penh (Cambodia) and Hanoi are offered in relatively modern air-conditioned buses. It is not possible to book tickets over the telephone; you should go to the relevant bus station the day before to check the schedule and buy your ticket. Buses to Dalat, Buon Ma Thuot, Nha Trang, Danang, Hue and Hanoi depart from Mien Dong Bus Station, on Xo Viet Nghe Tinh in Binh Tan District. Call 1080 for English-speaking operators who can provide information on coach timetables. Regular buses to Cambodia, operated by Saigon Passenger Transport Company (tel: +84 8 3854 6110;www.saigonbus.com.vn), depart from 309 Pham Ngu Lao Street for the seven-hour journey to Phnom Penh.
Travel by rail Services: Travelling by train on the route north from Ho Chi Minh City is picturesque, but trains are the slowest form of transport, with express services not living up to their name. As yet there are no rail passes available and it is advisable to book tickets as far in advance as possible. Soft class has seats with
padding and four-berth cabins with thin mattresses, as opposed to hard class, which has wooden slatted seats and six-berth wooden berths.
Operators: The Vietnamese railway company is Duong Sat Vietnam (tel: +84 4 3942 5972; www.vr.com.vn). It is better to go to the station however, at 1 Nguyen Thong, District 3, to buy rail tickets. There is one major route in Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City, via Nha Trang, Danang and Hue, to Hanoi.
Journey times: From Hanoi - between 29 and 42 hours; Hue - between 17 and 25 hours.