10 minute read
Jamie Oliver
All Together Now
Jamie Oliver’s new book is an ode to the simple pleasure of gathering for a meal BY MARY SUBIALKA
But while much of the world was Googling banana bread recipes and culturing sourdough starters for the first time, this globally recognized chef was developing recipes and writing his latest—and 24th overall—cookbook.
During his 20-year television and publishing career he has sold over 47 million books and reached an estimated global TV audience of 67 million in his efforts to inspire people to enjoy cooking fresh, delicious food from scratch. Being forced to slow down a little from his busy schedule afforded an opportunity to focus on his family, what he finds important in life, and inspired the topic for his new book, “Together: Memorable Meals Made Easy,” which has its U.S. release in November.
“‘Together’ feels more poignant in 2021 than ever before,” Oliver writes in the book’s introduction. “What we’ve been through, collectively, is very unusual, and I think a lot of us have realized that perhaps we took some of life’s simple pleasures for granted. Being together is precious. … And the joyful, amazing thing about food is that it can be anything you
Like many people want it to be. It can nourish, sustain, help to during the pandemic heal, be fast or convenient, comforting, fun, surprising, or an adventure. But maybe, in its lockdown last year, simplest form, it works as an excuse to bring the people you love together.” Jamie Oliver spent a Oliver was born in the village of Clavering in Essex, England, and started helping lot of time at home out with the cooking at his parents’ pub when he was only 8 years old. Later, he was cooking. spotted by a television production company after appearing in a documentary about the restaurant where he was a young sous-chef. This led to the 1999 debut of his BBC show “The Naked Chef,” and his cookbook of the same name, which staked his reputation for preparing food in a simple and natural (“naked”) way. The show ran three seasons and his energetic presentation and enthusiasm for the ease of cooking healthy food at home shot him to stardom. He’s since launched transatlantic efforts to reduce childhood obesity and improve school lunches, as well as founded restaurants in 21 countries. Oliver is now back living in Essex—this time in a 16th-century 70-acre estate—with his wife Jools (Juliette) and their daughters Poppy, 19; Daisy, 18; Petal, 12; and sons Buddy, 11; and River, 5. His new book is the inspiration for a new TV series of the same name now airing in the U.K. He shared his thoughts on cooking and his new book with Real Food via email from his home in Essex. Check out his recipe for Chicken, Sausage and Bacon Puff Pie with English Mustard, Leeks and Watercress Sauce on page 55.
What excites you about your new book “Together” and what would you like readers to learn/take away from it?
I mean, the word Together just conjures up so much feeling now, doesn’t it? It’s what we’ve all missed and longed for, to be with our family, friends and community again after all the events over the past year. My new book is a real celebration of great food that you can share with your loved ones. But it’s about more than food—it’s about making memories. I see my job here to make it as easy as possible for you to get ahead, plan and cook up extraordinary food, in such a way that you can enjoy maximum time with your guests.
For me, I think the most important message is that food can be a fantastic excuse to just get all your favorite people around the table, together. And that entertaining or cooking for others doesn’t have to be stressful. Each chapter of the book is a meal, and I’ve really interrogated the recipes to work out what you can do ahead, so you’re hopefully just finessing here and there, whacking stuff in the oven or focusing on the finishing touches, once you’re with your mates.
Do you have a favorite recipe?
And your next question is going to be, ‘which is your favorite child?’ That’s how it feels, you asking me to choose! They’re all so different and unique in their own way—the kids and the chapters!
I love the brunch chapter, so I put that first in the book—there’s something so satisfying about getting together in the morning and having a laidback meal. I love the taco party, a riot of flavor and color, and the curry night is really good, too. Then there are meals with epic centerpieces or knockout desserts that I also really love. You’re just going to have to buy the book and have a read.
What foods did you cook during quarantine? Did the time change your approach to food or cooking?
I think being stuck at home, which a lot of people have been, has made us question
what’s really important. I know for a lot of people, myself included, slowing down a bit has been a good thing. It’s encouraged us to embrace the little things in life that bring us pleasure, and I know food has brought a lot of people great joy. Whether that’s cooking for the first time, learning a new skill (sourdough craze, I’m looking at you!) or simply finding ways to mix up your everyday repertoire. It’s been a great reminder that sitting around the table to eat together is a very special thing.
I don’t think you can go far wrong with a roast chicken, and there’s so much you can do with them, so many different ways you can go on the flavor front. Also, the oven does all the hard work, so that always helps. I’ve put a last-minute style feast in the book actually that’s Italian inspired and a really great principle to follow. For starters, you jazz up a load of those shopbought antipasti, creating an epic spread, then I’ve done a really simple yet elegant pasta for the main, using one of my favorite shortcuts—cutting up fresh lasagna sheets to mimic fresh pasta. It’s such a good timesaver. A nice cocktail or two, and you’re onto a winner.
How has your approach to food and developing recipes evolved over the years?
My actual writing style in this book is quite unique. I’ve structured the recipes
At a time when ordering food at the click of a button is so easy, there’s something really very special about caring enough to spend time and effort cooking for those you love.
into three categories—‘get ahead,’ ‘on the day’ and ‘to serve’—making it really clear exactly how to approach each recipe. I’m also really excited about the photography. I worked with three of my favorite photographers and we’ve been much more indulgent on the amount of pictures that have made it into the book, which means it’s a really good one to flick through with a cuppa and your feet up.
I’ve done a photo inspiration spread for every meal, giving you ideas for how to set the table and serve up, as well as step-by-step pictures where relevant, and just some good old beauty shots of amazing ingredients. The family pop up a few times, too, which is always fun.
I try to weave tips, tricks and hacks into all my recipes, so make sure you read the recipe through before you start cooking so you know where you’re going—I think that always helps you get in the right mindset regardless of what you’re cooking.
Every chapter is a meal, because I often get asked what stuff goes together well, so I wanted to give you really solid ideas for how to create a whole meal. I’ve got 18 really wonderful meals for you, that I’m very proud of, that mean a lot to me, and that I’ve enjoyed with my own friends and family. And a little bonus chapter on cocktails, because we all deserve a little treat, right?
You cooked as a child at your parents’ pub, the Cricketers. Do you still make any of the dishes today? What might you say to 8-year-old Jamie?
It’s funny, since I do so much cooking with my own kids now, in many ways I am talking to 8-year-old Jamie all the time. Buddy is such an asset in the kitchen and he’s been getting amongst it since he was really little. His knife skills are getting really good now. He’s always happy to help out, and to be honest, all the kids have had their moments. Poppy and Daisy are out doing their own thing a lot now but when they were younger they’d always be picking herbs and helping with jobs here and there—Petal’s the same. And River, well if there’s music playing and he can dance while he helps you, he’s there!
Me and Jools celebrated 20 years of marriage last summer, and we were planning on a big old knees-up*, so I hope we’ll be able to do that at some point and get all the old crew out of the woodwork. I’m really just excited about having all the family back over—there’s quite a lot of us with my mum and dad, Jools’ mum and her fella, and all the siblings and their kids. A proper family party, that’s what we need. Hugging, cuddling, laughing and, ultimately, just all being in the same space.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 slices of smoked bacon 2 chicken thighs (3½ ounces each), skin off, bone out 2 pork sausages 2 leeks 2 small potatoes (3½ ounces each) 2 heaping teaspoons English mustard 2 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups chicken broth 2 cups reduced-fat (2%) milk 3¼ ounces watercress 11 ounces pre-rolled puff pastry 1 large egg
GET AHEAD You can do this on the day, if you prefer. Slice the bacon and place in a large shallow casserole pan on a medium heat. Chop the chicken and sausages into 1¼-inch chunks, and add to the pan. Cook until lightly golden, stirring regularly, while you trim and wash the leeks, peel the potatoes, chop it all into 1¼-inch chunks, then stir in with a good splash of water. Cook for 10 minutes, or until the leeks have softened, stirring occasionally, scraping up any sticky bits, and adding an extra splash of water, if needed. Stir in the mustard and flour, followed by the broth, then the milk. Bring to a boil, simmer for 15 minutes on a low heat, stirring regularly, then season to perfection, tasting and tweaking. Carefully pour everything through a colander to separate the filling from the sauce. Pour the sauce into a blender, add the watercress and blitz until smooth. Spoon the filling into an 8-inch pie dish with 7 tablespoons of sauce. Let everything cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight. TO SERVE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the rim of the pie dish with olive oil. Cut the pastry into ¾-inch strips, using a crinkly pasta cutter if you’ve got one, then arrange over the dish—I like a messy lattice. Eggwash all the pastry, then bake the pie for 45 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is piping hot. Gently heat up the watercress sauce to serve on the side.
VEGGIE LOVE Editor’s note: Follow these steps to make this vegetarian. Peel 1 pound of root veg of your choice, chop into ¾ –1¼-inch chunks and cook for 20 minutes with the leeks, potatoes, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the leaves from ½ a bunch of thyme (⅓ ounce). Use veg broth with the milk, top up with ½ cup of sauce on assembly, then finish in the same way.
What advice do you have for people this holiday season?
Cooking is an expression of love. So many cultures around the world believe that and it’s true. Investing your time to prepare and dish up incredible food, cooked from scratch, really means something to people. I can’t wait to see how everyone responds to the book and which meals really resonate with people and what they will be putting on their holiday tables. n
*Knees-up” is Brit-speak for a lively party. Interview questions and answers edited for clarity and length.
NUTRITION: PER SERVING: CALORIES: 699, FAT: 35G (SAT: 14G), SODIUM: 1.8G, CARB: 60G, FIBER: 4G, SUGARS: 9G, PROTEIN: 36G
