21 minute read
Incredible Eggs
From giving cheese soufflé a lift to making creamy frosting and more, eggs are indispensable
BY JASON ROSS
Eggs are the most useful and indispensable ingredient in cooking. What else could raise a soufflé and emulsify a sauce such as mayonnaise or aioli? Eggs make ice cream smooth and creamy. They can whip up a base for buttercream frosting, inflate a pastry for cream puffs, and as you will see here, are used to make a dough that can create both éclairs and pasta dumplings. Think of all the different preparations of eggs, from poached to fried, and the varieties of omelets, including a baked Spanish omelet rich with potatoes and melting cheese known as a tortilla, or oyakodon, a Japanese poached egg rice bowl featured here. These and more egg-centered recipes highlight the ingredient’s strengths, and I include some do’s and don’ts to make the most of working with the incredible egg.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLÉ (RECIPE PAGE 32)
Parisian Gnocchi with Zucchini MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Maybe you have tried potato gnocchi, the Italian potato dumpling-like pasta served with a variety of sauces. Parisian gnocchi are similar, although a bit lighter, and utilize another egg powerhouse preparation, called pâte à choux. Pâte à choux is made by beating eggs into a warm dough. It is simple enough, but an amazingly versatile product. Bake it and you get éclairs or cream puffs. Fry it and you get doughnuts or Mexican churros. And in this case, poach it and sauté it and you get crunchy, tender dumplings called Parisian gnocchi.
1 cup water 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter ½ teaspoon salt plus a pinch to cook zucchini 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ¼ cup minced green onion ¾ cup shredded Swiss, Gruyère or Gouda 3 eggs 2 tablespoons olive oil plus some to drizzle on poached gnocchi 1 zucchini, sliced into ¼-inch half moons 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup grated Parmesan (optional)
1. In a medium sized pot bring the 1 cup water, butter and ½ teaspoon salt to a rapid boil. Lower the heat to medium and add the flour all at once, stirring with a wooden spoon for 3 to 5 minutes. The dough will become firm and smooth and pull away from the sides of the pan, leaving a film on the bottom of the pan. 2. Add the warm dough to a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment—or use a medium mixing bowl and a wooden spoon, although a mixer is much easier. Beat in the mustard, green onion and cheese, and work until smooth and cooled slightly, about 1 minute. 3. Add the eggs, one at a time. With the addition of each egg, the dough will go slack and break apart but will become smooth and glossy as you beat the dough. The consistency of the dough should be firm enough to form a loose peak but not so stiff that it would be hard to squeeze through a piping bag. A dollop of the dough should hold its shape for a few seconds but slowly start to lose its form. 4. Put the dough in a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch flat tip, or simply fill a zip-top plastic bag and snip off a ½-inch hole in the corner. 5. Bring a large pot filled with about 3 inches of water to a gentle simmer. Place the piping bag over the boiling water and gently squeeze out some dough. Use a butter knife to lop off short sections of dough, about 1 inch long each. Keep piping and cutting off pieces until the bottom of the pot has filled with pieces of cut dough or gnocchi. 6. After a few minutes, the gnocchi will rise to the surface. Cook them for another 2 to 3 minutes, and then, using a slotted spoon, remove the gnocchi to a baking sheet or platter. Drizzle them with a little olive oil so they do not stick. Continue cooking the rest of dough in the hot water until all the dough is cooked. 7. At this point, the gnocchi can be cooled and stored in a container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. 8. To serve on the same day, allow the gnocchi to cool and become a bit firm. Then heat a large frying pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil (half the oil) on medium-high heat. When the oil heats and ripples, add enough gnocchi to fill the bottom of the pan in a single layer, but do not pile them up. It is important for the gnocchi to touch the hot pan to brown. Stir and roll the gnocchi in the hot oil, cooking and browning them for about 5 minutes. Remove the gnocchi to a plate and cook the rest of the gnocchi in the same way with the remaining olive oil. 9. Using the residual oil in the pan from the gnocchi, cook the zucchini and garlic in the pan on medium heat, for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until slightly softened, but not browned. When the zucchini and garlic are done, put the browned gnocchi back in the pan and gently toss together. 10. Sprinkle on Parmesan cheese if you like it and serve immediately.
PARISIAN GNOCCHI WITH ZUCCHINI
EGG DO’S AND DON’TS
Besides being tasty and nutritious, eggs have two strengths that are useful to us as cooks. First, eggs hold air well; second, they can emulsify or mix two substances together that would otherwise separate. Whipped egg whites, or meringue, are used to incorporate air into foods, and egg yolks are used to emulsify and thicken recipes. Here are some tips for adding these two tools to your repertoire:
• Do not let any egg yolks get into the egg whites used for meringues. Even a small amount of fat can inhibit the egg whites from foaming and forming meringue. Likewise, make sure bowls and whisks are clean and free of any residual grease or fat. • Room temperature egg whites whip more easily. • A little acid helps egg whites whip and makes them more stable. You can use a few drops of lemon juice, but cream of tartar is best, which adds acid without any additional liquid. • Do not overbeat meringues. Think of the bubbles in the egg whites as little balloons; if you whip them too full of air, they become fragile and may pop, giving you a broken meringue. • Use a mixer for whipping egg whites. Egg whites take longer to whip than whipped cream, so while mixing by hand is doable, it takes some effort.
• As you make an emulsion, like mayonnaise, it is important to add oil slowly and whisk until all droplets are dispersed. If any are left unmixed, they will start to pool and the sauce could break.
• Use a few drops of water to help prevent emulsions from breaking. As fat is added, do not let the sauce become too thick and rich with oil; the oil droplets will adhere to each other and the sauce will break. Adding a few drops of water before this happens will give the oil droplets room to spread out and prevent sauces from breaking.
OYAKODON
Oyakodon MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Oyakodon is a popular Japanese egg bowl. Think of it as a floating omelet cooked in a flavorful soy broth, served over steaming bowls of rice. It’s soft, savory and comforting, with chunks of cooked chicken breast and sliced onions. The trick is to have about ½ inch of broth on the bottom of the pan, enough so the eggs do not stick, but not so much that the broth drowns the rice. This recipe makes one batch to be shared, but if you have a small lidded frying pan—and the time and patience—you could make four small batches, one for each serving.
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or 2 teaspoons hondashi powder, if available ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup mirin sweet rice wine ¼ cup sugar 1½ cups (¼-inch sliced) onions 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thigh or breast, cut into ½-inch slices across the width 4 green onions, green and white parts, sliced thinly 4 eggs lightly scrambled with a fork or chopsticks 4 cups cooked (unsalted) white rice, served in 4 individual bowls
1. Put chicken broth in a medium frying pan, about 8 inches in diameter (If using hondashi powder, dissolve powder and 2 cups water). Add soy sauce, mirin and sugar. Bring to a vigorous boil and stir until hondashi powder (if using) and sugar are dissolved. 2. Add the onions and lower heat to medium and cook for about 1 minute, until they just begin to soften. 3. Add the chicken and spread chicken and onions evenly to cover the width of the pan. Simmer gently for 5 to 6 minutes, until it is almost, but not quite fully cooked. 4. Sprinkle half of the sliced green onions over the chicken, saving the rest for garnish, and pour the eggs around the pan, evenly covering all the chicken. Cover with a lid and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the eggs are steamed and cooked through. 5. Use a serving spoon to break up portions of oyakodon omelet. Be careful to cut nice pieces and not break the omelet too much into little chunks as you spoon it over bowls of hot rice. Add a little broth from the pan to each bowl and garnish with the remaining sliced green onions. Serve immediately piping hot.
Classic Cheese Soufflé MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
“Soufflé” sounds so exotic and exciting, and it is, but there is no need to fear making one. It’s just a baked egg dish with the whites whipped and airy, like a lightened omelet. This is another example of the wonderful power and versatility of eggs.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided ¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese or breadcrumbs ¼ cup flour 1½ cups whole milk 1 cup grated Gruyère, Gouda, cheddar or any semi-firm cheese 6 egg yolks few grinds black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 6 egg whites pinch cream of tartar (optional)
1. Heat oven to 375°F. 2. With 1/2 tablespoon butter, coat the inside of a 32-ounce soufflé mold or 6 to 8 individual soufflé dishes, and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese or breadcrumbs. (See Cook’s Notes.) 3. In a small pot, melt 21/2 tablespoons butter on medium heat. Whisk in all the flour at once and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, whisking constantly. 4. Pour 1/3 of the milk into the pot and whisk vigorously until smooth. Continue with another 1/3 of the milk in two more rounds until all the milk is incorporated and smooth. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently to avoid scorching and cook 2 to 3 minutes. This mixture is a thick version of white sauce or béchamel. 5. Vigorously whisk in the cheese. When all the cheese has melted, turn off the heat, and whisk in egg yolks, salt and pepper. Set aside. (Get ready to work quickly; once you start whipping the egg whites, it is important to have everything in place. After you make your soufflé mixture it will begin to lose volume as the air bubbles in the meringue deflate.) 6. Use a hand mixer (you can mix by hand, but be ready for a workout) and a deep bowl, and whisk the egg whites (and cream of tartar, if you have it) on high speed until they have nearly firm peaks. The peaks should still just barely fold over, as you pull the mixer blades out of the mixture. 7. Use a rubber spatula to mix 1/3 of the whipped egg whites into the cheese mixture (this is called tempering). With the spatula, fold the cheese mixture back into the remaining whipped egg whites in the bowl. To fold, gently cut down into the mixture and fold it over itself. Rotate the bowl and repeat until well combined. 8. Immediately spoon the soufflé mixture into the prepared dish(es). Fill to about ½ inch from the top of the dish, leaving room for the soufflé to rise. Place soufflé(s) on a sheet tray and bake in the oven, undisturbed for 40 minutes for one large dish or 10 to 12 minutes for individual dishes. 9. Check for doneness by shaking the pan and looking for firm centers that do not jiggle or appear wet. Soufflés should rise to an inch above the rim of the dish. If needed, cook for 5 more minutes. Remove the tray from the oven and serve soufflé immediately; it will begin deflating as it cools.
Cook’s Notes:
• If you don’t have soufflé molds, use ramekins or any straight-sided casserole, heat-resistant ceramic dish, or even coffee cups. • Preparing the molds with breadcrumbs or Parmesan cheese gives the soufflé something to cling to as it rises—or it’s likely to collapse down the sides of the dish.
Coconut Cake with Swiss Meringue Frosting MAKES 2 10-INCH CAKES, 16 SERVINGS
For dessert, eggs are used for everything from cake to a gently cooked Swiss meringue. Toasty coconut and layers of cake make a lovely springtime treat. Coconut milk instead of cow’s milk in the cake adds tasty, toasty flavor.
For the Coconut Topping 2¾ cups sweetened coconut flakes (half a 14-ounce bag)
For the Cake 2 cups sugar 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 eggs 3¼ cups all-purpose flour 3¼ teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon salt 1½ cups coconut milk
1. Toast the coconut: Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread the coconut into an even layer on a sheet tray and toast for 5 minutes in the oven. Remove the tray and stir the coconut with a wooden spoon. Jiggle the pan to spread coconut into an even layer again, and toast for another 5 minutes. Repeat until the coconut is light brown and fragrant. Set aside. 2. Reduce oven to 350°F. Lightly grease and flour two 10-inch round cake pans and line with a circle of parchment paper. 3. Using a mixer with the paddle attachment (hand mixer or counter-top is also fine) beat the sugar and butter on medium-low speed for about 8 to 10 minutes or until light and fluffy. With a rubber spatula, scrape the bowl and the paddle to make sure all the sugar and butter are fully combined. 4. Add the vanilla and eggs one at a time and mix on low until fully incorporated. 5. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. 6. Add 1/3 of the dry mixture to the wet ingredients and mix on low until just blended. Add 1/3 of the coconut milk and mix on low until just blended. Scrape the bowl and the paddles with a rubber spatula, making sure cake batter is fully incorporated as needed. Continue adding dry mixture and coconut milk, alternating, until all the ingredients are incorporated. 7. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pans. Tap or jiggle the pan gently to get the batter to lay flat and even. Put cake pans on sheet tray and bake in oven for about 30 minutes or until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle of the cake pulls clean with no wet batter. 8. Cool the cakes in the pan until set, about 40 minutes, then invert cakes onto a wire rack and remove parchment paper. The cake can be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for up to 7 days or in the freezer for 3 to 4 months. Swiss Meringue Buttercream MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS (ENOUGH TO FROST 1 2-LAYER CAKE)
Buttercream can be made with different bases. The French version uses egg yolks whipped with boiled syrup. Italian uses egg whites whipped with boiled syrup. And Swiss, the gentler and more versatile cousin, uses a warmed egg white meringue for the vanilla-scented icing. It’s stable, spreadable and simple to work with.
6 egg whites 1¾ cups sugar ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 5 sticks unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Bring a wide pot filled with a couple inches water to boil. Then, reduce heat to very low, enough to keep water hot but not bubbling. 2. Put egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar in a stainless steel bowl that will fit on top of pot with hot water. Whisk the egg whites with a wire whisk over the hot water until they are warmed through, about 120°F. This should take about 10 minutes. If you do not have a thermometer, taste a small spoonful; it should be warm, or put a dollop on your wrist or upper lip for the temperature check. 3. Use a mixer with whisk attachment (hand mixer or counter-top is fine) and whip at high speed until the meringue is white and fluffy, forms stiff peaks, and is cooled. The side of bowl will feel cool. 4. With the mixer still running, add the softened butter by the spoonful, allowing butter to incorporate with each addition. Continue until all the butter is used and the mixture is light and fluffy. Finish by beating in the vanilla. 5. Butter cream can be used immediately or stored in a zip-top bag or container in the refrigerator for 7 days, or in freezer for 3 to 4 months. If refrigerated or frozen, the buttercream will need to soften until it is at room temperature, and then be re-whipped until smooth.
Cake Assembly
1. Use a long serrated knife to trim off any rounded tops on the cakes and brush off any stray cake crumbs. 2. Place one cooled cake on a revolving cake stand if you have one, or use a plate. With an offset spatula or cake spatula, spread 1 cup of buttercream across the top of cake from edge to edge and just past the edge of cake. Put the next layer of cake on top of the frosted cake and repeat, spreading 1 cup of buttercream across the top, and just a little bit past the edges. Next, spread the extra buttercream that went past the edges, adding a little more as needed around the sides of the cake to make a thin coating. Do not worry if some crumbs make a messy coat, this is called the crumb coat, and will be covered with a fresh coating of buttercream. Refrigerate the cake until the buttercream is firm, about 15 minutes. 3. Use the rest of the buttercream to cover the crumb-coated sides and another thin layer on top. While the buttercream is still damp and sticky, sprinkle and coat tops and sides with toasted coconut. 4. Serve immediately, or the cake can be stored at room temperature in a cake box for up to 3 days but does not refrigerate well.
COCONUT CAKE WITH SWISS MERINGUE FROSTING
BETTER BUTTERCREAM
It is a common mistake to make a buttercream that ends up either too stiff or too runny, and it might even seem ruined—but the good news is that buttercream is simple to fix if you run into problems. If the buttercream is loose and soupy, it has gotten too hot. Put the mixing bowl in the refrigerator until the outside edges of the buttercream have gotten firm, like refrigerated butter. This should take around 10 to 15 minutes. Then re-whip on high speed and the buttercream will firm up into a smooth, spreadable consistency. If the buttercream looks curdled or grainy, it has gotten too cold. Put the mixing bowl back over the hot water and stir until the edges of the buttercream start to melt around the edges. Then re-whip. The cold buttercream will soften and smooth as it whips with the melted butter.
SPANISH TORTILLA WITH POTATO, SPINACH AND CHEESE AND GARLIC AIOLI
Though the Spanish tortilla shares a name with the popular Mexican thin flatbread, it is actually more like a frittata or egg bake than a traditional tortilla. The classic Spanish tortilla is a type of omelet made with potatoes and onions, and is most often served at room temperature with garlic aioli as a dipping sauce. This recipe adds spinach and melted cheese. Spanish chorizo could be added, too, for a little more flavor and spice if you wish.
1 pound (about 4 medium sized) potatoes (Yukon gold or russet) 1 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch for boiling potatoes 8 eggs few grinds black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup (¼-inch sliced) onions 1 cup frozen spinach, defrosted ½ cup grated semi-firm cheese, such as Spanish Mahon, cheddar, Gruyère or Gouda ½ cup aioli (recipe right)
1. Heat oven to 425°F. 2. Peel and dice the potatoes into ½-inch dice. Bring a medium pot of water with a pinch of salt to a boil and add the potatoes. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender but still holding their shape—it’s better to leave slightly firm than to overcook and turn mushy. 3. Use a colander to strain the potatoes and lay them on a plate to cool slightly. 4. In a medium bowl use a fork to vigorously scramble the eggs, adding 1 teaspoon salt and some ground black pepper to taste. 5. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet on medium heat and add the olive oil. 6. Add the potatoes and onions to the hot oil and gently stir to coat without breaking up the diced potatoes. Add the spinach and evenly disperse around the pan. 7. Pour the eggs over the pan and immediately sprinkle cheese over the eggs. Use a spatula to push some of the cheese below the surface of the liquid eggs without disturbing the contents of the pan too much. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottom of the tortilla is set. 8. Use a rubber spatula to carefully lift the edges and peek at the underside. When the tortilla is starting to brown, slip the pan into the oven and cook for 12 to 15 minutes. 9. Check the tortilla by pushing the center with a spatula and look for uncooked egg seeping out of the tortilla. Cook for a few more minutes, if needed, until firm and solid, without any liquid eggs in the center. 10. Let the tortilla cool for at least 15 minutes. Then place a plate on top of the pan and flip the pan over, placing the tortilla on the plate with the browned side served facing up, like an upside-down cake. Serve warm, room temperature or even fully chilled. The tortilla can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 days. To serve, cut into slices garnished with a few spoonfuls of aioli ladled over each slice. Cook’s Note: Some chefs prefer to flip the hot tortillas instead of baking them in the oven. This browns the tortilla on both sides. It’s a little tricky and possible to burn yourself with hot oil from the pan, but if you want to try cooking the tortilla on both sides, you will not need to turn on the oven. Instead, after the tortilla is browned on one side, invert it onto a plate and then slide it back onto the hot pan cooking both sides. But be very careful not to get hot oil on yourself while turning the pan. Better to move it quickly and decisively than furtively and allow the hot oil to drizzle out of the pan.
Garlic Aioli MAKES 1 CUP
2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon water ½ cup olive oil ½ cup light oil, such as canola, vegetable or grapeseed
1. Put the garlic, salt and lemon juice in a small mixing bowl and whisk to combine. 2. Add the yolk and water. 3. While whisking, drizzle in the oil. (A friend holding the bowl can be helpful or set the bowl on a pot lined with a kitchen towel to keep it from sliding and moving as you whisk.) 4. Keep whisking as you slowly add all the oil, making a thick and creamy emulsion. If the sauce is a little thin, whisk in a bit more oil. If it’s too thick, add a couple drops of water or lemon juice. 5. Aioli can be served immediately or stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. It is safest to use pasteurized eggs when serving raw or undercooked eggs. Cook’s Note: For an easy cheat, just add garlic and lemon juice to your favorite store-bought mayonnaise to make aioli.
CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLÉ:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 250; FAT 18g (sat. 10g); CHOL 210mg; SODIUM 590mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 0g; SUGAR 3g; PROTEIN 15g
OYAKODON:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 570; FAT 8 (sat. 2g); CHOL 260mg; SODIUM 1450mg; CARB 81g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 20g; PROTEIN 40g
COCONUT CAKE W. SWISS MERINGUE FROSTING:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 650; FAT 41g (sat. 27g); CHOL 115mg; SODIUM 280mg; CARB 67g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 45g; PROTEIN 6g
PARISIAN GNOCCHI W. ZUCCHINI:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 370; FAT 26g (sat. 13g); CHOL 140mg; SODIUM 320mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 1g; SUGAR 2g; PROTEIN 11g
SPANISH TORTILLA W. POTATO, SPINACH & CHEESE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 410; FAT 30g (sat. 6g); CHOL 230mg; SODIUM 700mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 2g; PROTEIN 14g
