Fire It Up

Add international flavor to your backyard barbecue repertoire this season

When it comes to cooking food over fire it is pretty much a global enterprise. And even though live-fire cooking is the most primitive of cooking styles, it is still extremely popular from the tip of South America to the reaches of northern Tibet and the countries in between. In the recipes featured here, I have drawn on this global influence to take advantage of its wonderful diversity.

The flavoring of the grilled shrimp is decidedly influenced by Spain and its love of shrimp and using Spanish chorizo as a flavoring agent. The ribs take advantage of the classic Chinese condiments hoisin and soy sauce to produce a sweet and savory glaze. The chicken coated in Dijon mustard and herbs pays homage to France’s love of mustard. Even flavors from our own country are involved in the marinade for beef tri-tip, an American cut loved for grilling in the central coast of California. And because I use stout in the marinade, I could argue that the beloved beer style of Ireland—not a country known for grilling—even plays a role.

With these recipes you can add international flavor to your outdoor barbecues that friends and family will enjoy. Best of all, these recipes are simple to produce and don’t involve any complicated cooking methods.

Grilled Shrimp, Sweet Peppers and Onions with Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter

Grilled Shrimp, Sweet Peppers and Onions with Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter

Makes 4 servings

Soaking shrimp in an iced salt solution not only leaches out any off flavors but gives the shrimp a crisp, juicy texture even if slightly overcooked. The result is crisp, clean succulent shrimp. Butterflying the shrimp prior to cooking makes it quick and easy to grill, plus it creates more interior surface to soak up the flavorful butter. Use Spanish chorizo and not Mexican chorizo, which is completely different and will not work as well in this recipe. Try Pimentón Vera, a smoky Spanish paprika, but if it’s not available a good quality Hungarian paprika will work. If you have any chorizo butter left over, chill and use as a garnish for grilled fish, beef or chicken breast.

1/2 cup kosher salt

1 cup ice cubes

11/2 pounds large unshelled shrimp (20 count or larger)

1 large red bell pepper cut into 1-inch squares

1 medium-large red onion or sweet onion cut into 1-inch chunks

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley, for garnish

Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter

1/3 cup (2 ounces) diced Spanish chorizo

2 large cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

1/2 cup (1/4 pound) melted butter

2 teaspoons Pimentón Vera or Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Pour 31/2 cups cold water into a mixing bowl and stir in salt until dissolved. Stir in ice cubes to chill brine to 45°F or less. Add shrimp. Make sure they are covered with the brine and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Drain and discard brine.

2. To butterfly shrimp, make a cut along the leg side to a depth of half the thickness of each shrimp, making sure not to cut all the way through. Open shrimp and flatten them in your palm. Thread shrimp onto skewers so the skewers are perpendicular to the length of the shrimp. The skewers should help to keep the shrimp flat (2 parallel skewers work better than one). Set shrimp skewers aside.

3. Thread alternating pieces of peppers and onions onto skewers.

4. To make the Chorizo Butter: Drop chorizo into the feed tube of a running food processor followed by the garlic and shallot. Stop the machine, scrape down the sides and pulse several times until all is finely chopped. Melt butter over low heat in a small saucepan. Add chopped mixture and paprika to the pan, increase heat to medium, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the garlic and chorizo become fragrant. Add remaining ingredients and keep butter mixture warm.

5. Build a charcoal or gas fire to provide medium-hot heat. Brush each shrimp, pepper and onion skewer with the butter mixture. Place shrimp leg side down and grill for 2 to 3 minutes. Brush again with the butter, turn and grill 2 minutes more or until shrimp are pink and firm. Transfer shrimp to a warm platter while you finish the vegetables.

6. Grill pepper and onion skewers for 2 minutes. Brush with butter and turn over and grill 2 more minutes and brush again with the butter. Continue to baste and turn until the vegetables are tender and the edges are a little charred, about 10 minutes total. Remove shrimp and vegetables from the skewers and arrange on a platter. Drizzle the remaining butter over everything, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Meal Plan

My preferred side dish is rice cooked in saffron or a whole grain such as spelt, bulgar or farro. I like to serve this with Sauvignon Blanc or lager beer.

Grilled Chicken with Mustard, Lemon and Fresh Herb Coating

Grilled Chicken with Mustard, Lemon and Fresh Herb Coating

Makes 4 to 6 servings

The mustard coating on this chicken recipe is applied after the chicken is nicely seared and when it roasts over indirect heat. When done, it forms a lovely mustardy, herby crust. I like thighs and breast but you can use any combination of chicken pieces you prefer including legs and thighs, breast and leg, and thigh quarters. You will need about 4 to 5 pounds total to feed six folks or four folks with big appetites.

Mustard, Lemon and Herb Paste

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons minced garlic

juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

4 large chicken breasts, about 3 pounds

4 large chicken thighs, about 1 1/2 pounds

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the mustard coating, combine all ingredients except the chicken and the 1 teaspoon rosemary and 1 teaspoon oregano in a small bowl and whisk until well mixed. Set aside.

2. Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a mediumhot fire. Lightly season all sides of the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Combine the 1 teaspoon rosemary and 1 teaspoon oregano and sprinkle over the skin side. Scatter chicken over the heat, skin side down. Cover the grill and sear for 2 to 3 minutes until chicken is nicely browned. Turn and cook the other side 2 to 3 minutes or until beginning to brown. If the grill starts to flare up, immediately move the chicken to the part of the grill that has no fire to avoid burning.

3. When all the pieces have been nicely seared, space them skin side up over the unlit side of the grill. Brush each piece with the mustard coating. Cover and cook for about 30 to 40 minutes or until the area near the bone is no longer pink. Breasts will take less time than thighs. Breasts are done when they reach an internal temperature of 160°F and thighs are done at 170°F. Arrange chicken on a platter and serve.

Meal Plan

I like to serve the chicken with a potato salad made with a mustard vinaigrette and a green salad of mixed summer lettuces. The full-flavored coating on this chicken makes it ideal to eat cold the next day on its own or in chicken sandwiches. I like to serve this chicken with a somewhat fruity white wine such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer. Lager or wheat beer is also nice.

Chinese-Style Glazed Back Ribs

Chinese-Style Glazed Back Ribs

Makes 4 Servings

Since I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, I often visit Chinatown and can never resist the racks of hoisin-glazed ribs hanging in the windows of the food shops that line the streets in the neighborhood. The glaze in this recipe is inspired by these ribs but has many more ingredients than the typical hoisin glaze. Not only is this glaze good on back ribs but it could also be used for chicken, pork chops or even burgers—so have fun with it.

Chinese Glaze

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

juice of 1 fresh lime (about 2 tablespoons)

juice of 1 fresh lemon (about 3 tablespoons)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground fennel seed

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons honey

2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil

1 large slab or 2 smaller slabs pork back ribs (also called baby back ribs), about 3 to 4 pounds

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the glaze, heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook until soft, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add remaining ingredients except the sesame oil and bring to a boil. Reduce the liquid until it becomes syrupy. Stir in the sesame oil and set aside.

2. Set up a gas or charcoal grill for indirect grilling with medium-high heat on the hot side of the grill. Lightly season both sides of the ribs with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place ribs, meat side down and grill until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook the bone side for another 5 minutes. Move the ribs, meat side up, to the area of the grill where there is no fire under the meat. Generously baste the ribs with the glaze. Cover the grill and try to maintain a temperature of 300°F to 350°F. Baste the ribs with the glaze every 30 minutes. The ribs are done when the meat begins to pull away from the bone, 45 minutes to 11/2 hours, depending on the temperature of the grill. Since it is very difficult to manage a consistent low temperature on a grill, begin monitoring the internal temperature at 45 minutes. The internal temperature at the thickest part of the ribs should be 160°F to 170°F.

3. Brush the glaze over the ribs once more and place them directly over a mediumhot fire and grill for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the glaze is bubbly and just beginning to brown. Turn and brush the other side with glaze and grill for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, or until the glaze is bubbly and beginning to color. Remove from the grill, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Slice in between the ribs to separate them. Place on a platter and brush generously with more glaze.

Meal Plan

I like to serve these ribs with baked sweet potatoes and an old-fashioned mayonnaise-ey coleslaw. I think they go well with a fruity red wine such as Zinfandel or Pinot Noir.

Stout-Marinated Grilled Tri-tip

Stout-Marinated Grilled Tri-tip

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Tri-tip is a small roast from the bottom end of the sirloin. It has great flavor, no waste, and is very easy to carve. It takes well to marinades and when I grill tri-tip, I usually marinate it for a day or more in a flavorful marinade followed by a simple dry rub. I have often seen marinade recipes that call for red wine but I don’t care for it as it can lend a bitter aftertaste to marinades. Rather, I prefer to use beer as a basic ingredient in my marinades. This recipe uses a dark stout beer, which has slightly bitter and caramel undertones that really complement the rich, beefy flavor of tri-tip. Because tri-tip is fairly thick, I don’t like to cook it completely over direct heat since there is a high risk of burning the outside before the inside is cooked to the proper degree of doneness. I prefer to sear the roast first and then complete the cooking over indirect heat, a process I call “grill roasting.”

Stout Marinade

1 (12-ounce) bottle American Stout or 1 cup strong brewed coffee (see Cook’s Notes)

1⁄4 cup malt vinegar

1⁄4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Coleman’s dry mustard powder

2 tablespoons minced garlic (4 large cloves)

1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1⁄4 cup olive oil

1 tri-tip beef roast (about 21⁄2 pounds)

Paprika and Cocoa Dry Rub

2 teaspoons Pimentón Vera (smoked Spanish Paprika) or Hungarian paprika

1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until well blended.

2. Using a sharp meat fork or skewer, puncture the meat all over on both sides. Place meat in a 1-gallon zipper lock bag. Pour over the marinade. Seal bag and shake and turn the bag so the meat is totally covered with the marinade. Place bag in a bowl in case it leaks and refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. Turn and shake bag occasionally.

3. For the rub: About 2 hours before you are ready to grill the tri-tip, make the rub by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl until well blended. Rub may also be made several days or up to two weeks ahead and stored in a sealed container.

4. Remove roast from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Coat the meat on all sides using the rub. Place on a tray or platter and rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.

5. To set up the grill for indirect cooking, place coals on one half of a covered grill or, if using a gas grill, preheat it by heating all the burners on high heat. When the gas grill is hot, turn off the middle section; if using charcoal, heat until coals are glowing hot. Do not remove the spice coating and lay the meat directly above the heat. Sear the meat for 3 minutes on each side and then transfer the roast to the area of the grill that has no fire. Cover and grill-roast (indirect grilling). After about 15 minutes begin to check the internal temperature of the roast. When it registers 115°F to 120°F it will produce a mostly medium-rare roast after resting (thinner areas of the roast may be closer to medium doneness). If you prefer rare meat as I do, remove the roast when its internal temperature is 110°F to 115°F, which is perhaps after a total cooking time of around 25 to 26 minutes.

6. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and loosely cover with foil. Let rest at least 10 minutes and up to 15 minutes. The final internal temperature will reach 125°F to 130°F. Slice across the grain into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices and serve.

Cook’s Notes:

• For an alcohol-free marinade, use 1 cup dark brewed coffee in place of the stout. This will also give the marinade a slightly bitter flavor, which works well with tri-tip.

• If you are lucky enough to have any leftovers, this makes great sandwiches or a nice addition to a mixed lettuce salad.

Meal Plan

This roast can be served with a full flavored red wine such as Petit Syrah or Zinfandel, but I like to serve it with beer such as stout or ale. For side dishes, roasted or boiled new potatoes are very good. It also goes well with your favorite bean dish.

By Bruce Aidells

Photography Terry Brennan

Food Styling Lara Miklasevics