Gorgeous Gourds

Five deliciously different ways to enjoy winter squash

The sweet, brilliantly colored flesh of squash is one of the nutrition superstars in your kitchen. The color comes from carotenoids, which are antioxidant compounds that protect your health on a cellular level. Vitamins A, B and C hide in that delicious, creamy squash. It’s even high in fiber and pectin, which stabilize blood sugar and make you feel full longer.

Why does pumpkin get all the attention? It takes center stage in our favorite Thanksgiving pie, and pumpkin spice flavors are everywhere in muffins, coffee and more. It’s enough togive all the squash siblings a self-esteemproblem. It’s time to give the rest of the squash family some face time. If you area fan of pumpkin, you are already a fanof squash, which is in the same gourdfamily. Fall is when all those gorgeous gourds are in season and stores will have the widest selections.

The squash we see this time of year is known as winter squash, which gets its name from being a good “keeper.”It’s harvested in fall, and if left in a cool room, will keep all winter. After it’s picked, the squash cures for a couple of weeks to let the skin harden into natural“packaging,” sealing in the freshness better than a plastic wrapper ever could. Most winter squash have inedible skins, but a few, like the sweet dumpling, carnival, delicata and kabocha have thinner skin that can be eaten.

There are two ways to approach your squash. One is to simply cut it in half, scoop out the seeds and bake it on an oiled sheet pan. Then, you can scoop out the flesh to make purees for use in recipes from soup to cheesecake. The second way is to peel and cube the squash. It’s a little more work, but you’ll love those meltingly tender chunks of squash in pastas, curries and stews.

Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry, Thyme and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds

Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry, Thyme and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds

Makes 4 servings

The sweet, nutty flavors in squash are accentuated by the addition of dry sherry, which lends a savory depth to the creamy soup. The crunchy pumpkin seed topping adds a spicy flavor boost and texture to the smooth soup.

2 cups squash puree from 2 pounds butternut squash

2 tablespoons butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

2 tablespoons flour

11/2 cups whole milk

6 tablespoons dry sherry

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon salt

For the Pumpkin Seed Garnish

1 teaspoon canola oil

1 cup shelled pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut squash in half, scoop out the seeds and place, cut side down, on an oiled sheet pan. Bake for 40 minutes to 1 hour, until the squash is tender when pierced with a paring knife. Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and use a spatula to turn the hot halves over, which will help them cool faster.

2. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and place in a food processor bowl. Puree until smooth, then measure 2 cups for this recipe. If there is a little extra, refrigerate and save for another use.

3. In a large pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat, then add the onion and thyme. Stir until the onion starts to sizzle, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the onion mixture and stir to mix well, then cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, to cook the flour. Take the pot off the heat and whisk in about 1/2 cup of the milk. When it is incorporated, whisk in the rest of the milk and then the sherry. Return to medium heat and whisk occasionally until the mixture thickens slightly and starts to bubble around the edges. Whisk in the squash puree, cayenne and salt and stir until heated through. Serve with pumpkin seed garnish.

4. For the pumpkin seed garnish: Heat the oil for 1 minute in a medium non-stick skillet. Add the pumpkin seeds and toss in the pan over high heat until the seeds are popping and browning, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, add the brown sugar and toss constantly until seeds are coated with melted sugar (careful—it can burn easily). Quickly mix in the spices and salt, then spread on a plate to cool. Cool completely and store in an airtight container until ready to use. It can be made up to 1 week ahead.

Spaghetti Squash with Shrimp, Lemon and Spinach

Spaghetti Squash with Shrimp, Lemon and Spinach

Makes 4 servings

For those days when you want more veggies than carbs, spaghetti squash is your answer. Here, the tender strands get tossed with garlicky, lemony butter for a sensation that feels like scampi, but better. Spinach and tomatoes add color and even more tasty veggies to the meal.

3 pounds spaghetti squash, about 4 cups, cooked

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups baby spinach, chopped

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

2. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place the squash, cut side down, on the pan. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes. To check for doneness, take the pan out of the oven, turn a squash half over and then insert a paring knife into the flesh along one side and try to separate the strands. If the squash does not separate easily, place it cut side down again and bake 10 minutes longer.

3. When the squash can be broken into strands easily, remove from oven, turn the halves cut side up, and cool on a rack. When cool, scrape out the strands and measure 4 cups for this dish.

4. Prep the shrimp and pat dry. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and stir, cooking until the shrimp are pink. Add the garlic, lemon zest and red pepper flakes and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the spaghetti squash and salt and toss until the squash is heated through. Add the spinach and tomatoes and stir into the mixture, cooking until the spinach wilts. Sprinkle with Parmesan and toss to coat. Serve hot.

scraping spaghetti squash strands

Squash Varieties

Acorn: Deeply lobed and pointed at the blossom end, these small squashes are often halved and baked, then topped with butter and brown sugar. Their flesh is pale orange or yellow, and smooth textured for easy eating.

Buttercup: Squat, blocky and streaked with greens and greys, the buttercup hides a rounded “cup” on the blossom end. Sweet, nutty flesh is smooth and meaty, and drier than some squashes.

Butternut: The tan-colored squash with smooth, bright orange flesh is one of the most popular varieties. Moist, sweet and mild, it’s easy to peel and good in most recipes.

Delicata: Small and oblong, these are streaked with white, yellow, orange and green on their thin, tender skin. Their flesh is sweet and a little denser and drier than acorns and butternuts.

Hubbard: The Hubbard can be a 40-pound blue-skinned behemoth, although new varieties are smaller. Rich, meaty flesh and deep orange color make it a popular one. They are often cut in chunks and wrapped so you can get a smaller portion.

Kabocha: Sometimes called a Japanese pumpkin, this squat, round squash is streaked with greens and greys. A favorite for Asian dishes, it has dense, meaty flesh that holds its shape in a curry or stew.

Red Kuri: Very similar to kabocha, the squash’s dark orange skin and teardrop shape give it curb appeal for days.

Spaghetti: This is the odd man out, with pale yellow skin and flesh that falls apart into spaghetti-like strands. The key to working with this squash is to not overbake it, which makes the strands soggy. Halve, seed and bake until a paring knife inserted into the flesh can easily twist and break the strands apart. Waiting until the skin is easily pierced is too long.

Sweet Dumpling, Carnival: These adorable little squashes are 4 to 6 inches across, with white or pale yellow skins, splotched with green. Mild and sweet, their edible skin lends them to slicing and roasting, sautéing or stewing, or stuffing for a pretty presentation.

Thai Red Curry Squash and Chicken Stew

Makes 4 servings

Sweet, meaty kabocha squash and chicken thighs go well together in this creamy, spicy Thai dish. A simple simmer sauce allows you to cook everything at once, streamlining the cooking process and saving time. Serve with black rice for a stunning, whole-grain presentation, or substitute brown or sushi rice.

1 cup black rice

1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk

1 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup fish sauce

1 stalk lemongrass, split lengthwise

3 small shallots, minced

1 large lime, pared

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon ginger root, slivered

4 teaspoons red curry paste

3 cups peeled and cubed kabocha squash, uncooked

1 pound chicken thighs, cut in bite sized pieces

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/2 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped

1. Cook the rice: Put 11/2 cups water in a medium pot and place over high heat, and when boiling, add the rice. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the rice is tender. If necessary, drain the rice in a fine mesh strainer. Put back in the pan, cover, and keep warm.

2. In a large sauté pan, pour the coconut milk, chicken stock and fish sauce and place over medium heat. Add the lemongrass, shallots, lime zest, garlic, ginger and red curry paste and mix well. Bring to a boil. Add the squash and chicken and reduce heat to a simmer and cover the pan, adjusting the heat so it’s not boiling. Cook until the squash is tender when pierced with a paring knife and a piece of chicken cut in half has no pink left, about 10 minutes. Add lime juice and simmer just until thick. Serve the curry over cooked black rice, topped with cilantro.

Sausage and Farro Stuffed Acorn Squash

Sausage and Farro Stuffed Acorn Squash

Makes 4 servings

Smaller squashes stuffed with delectable goodies are perfect for making into single-serving meals. This beauty will tempt your diners with chewy sausage and whole grain farro laced with herbs and Parmesan cheese.

2 small acorn squash, halved (or large sweet dumplings)

1/2 cup pearled farro

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

8 ounces Italian sausage, mild or hot

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup dried apricots, finely chopped

1 large egg

1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Set out a large casserole or pan for the squash halves.

2. Halve the squashes from the stem end to the tip and use a spoon to scoop out the seeds and strings. Place cut side down on the sheet pan and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until the squash is tender when pierced with a paring knife. Cool on pan on a rack.

3. In a small pot, place 2 cups water and put it over high heat to bring to a boil. Add the farro and return to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cook, covered, for about 20 minutes, until the farro is tender. Drain in a fine mesh strainer and let cool.

4. In a large sauté pan, drizzle the olive oil and place over mediumhigh heat. Add the onion and stir until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir occasionally for at least 5 minutes. When the onion is softened, crumble the sausage into the pan. Raise the heat to medium-high and stir, crumbling the sausage with your spatula. Add the thyme, oregano and salt and stir until the sausage is no longer pink and is cooked through. Scrape into a large bowl and let cool.

5. Scoop out the squash flesh, leaving about a ¼-inch layer inside the skins so they won’t collapse. Place the squash in a medium bowl and mash with a fork, then transfer to the bowl with the sausage. Add the cooked farro, apricots, egg and half of the Parmesan cheese. Mix well.

6. Stuff the squash halves with the sausage mixture, rounding the top of the filling. Place them in the casserole or on a baking sheet, and top each with the remaining Parmesan. Bake for 30 minutes. The tops will be golden brown and the filling will be firm when pressed with a fingertip. Serve hot. When completely cooled, place any leftovers in a storage tub, cover tightly, and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Kabocha Cheesecake with Maple Walnut Sauce

Kabocha Cheesecake with Maple Walnut Sauce

Makes 16 servings

Forget about pumpkin pie—this cheesecake is going to win your heart with its creamy, cinnamonkissed appeal. You’ll need to roast a small kabocha squash for this; a 1½ pound squash should yield 1½ cups mashed squash. This recipe will feed a crowd, depending on how hungry they are. If you have a smaller group, you can also freeze a few slices for another day. You’ll be glad you did!

For the Crust

2 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

For the Maple Walnut Topping

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons cream

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

For the Cheesecake Filling

1 (11/2 pound) kabocha squash (for 11/2 cups mashed)

3 (8-ounce) packages neufchatel or cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup sour cream

1 cup granulated sugar

3/4 cup light brown sugar

5 large eggs

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. To bake the squash for the cheesecake filling, cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and place the squash, cut side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 30 minutes at 400°F, then cool. Scoop the flesh into a measuring cup, mashing with a fork as you go, to make 11/2 cups, reserving any extra for another use.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10-inch springform pan and wrap a sheet of foil around the bottom of the pan in case it leaks. Get a deep roasting pan that the springform fits in. Boil a pot of water.

3. Make the crust: In a large bowl, stir the graham cracker crumbs and brown sugar. Melt the butter and drizzle over the crumb mixture, stirring until evenly mixed. Press the mixture in the buttered pan. Bake for 10 minutes to lightly toast the crust. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.

4. Make the cheesecake filling: Place the neufchatel or cream cheese in the food processor bowl and process to blend well. Scrape down and process, as many times as it takes to get it smooth, with no lumps. Add the sour cream and sugars and process again, scraping down until well mixed and smooth. Add the mashed squash, eggs, flour, cinnamon, salt and vanilla. Process until smooth and well mixed, scraping down as needed. Pour the batter into the prepared crust and place in the roasting pan. Carefully pour the boiling water in the roasting pan to come 11/2 inches up the sides of the springform pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 1 hour and 30 to 40 minutes. The cake will be puffed around the edges and will not jiggle in the center when lightly shaken.

5. Remove the roasting pan from oven and place it on a cooling rack with the cake still in it, for about 10 minutes, then take the cake out and discard the water. Cool the cheesecake on the rack until room temperature, then chill for at least two hours before cutting. 6. While the cake is cooling, make the topping: In a small saucepan, combine the maple syrup, brown sugar, butter and cream. Stir over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the walnuts. Let cool.

Peeling and Cubing Squash

• Squash that is smooth and not deeply lobed, like a butternut or kabocha, will be easier to peel.

• If the squash has a big stem, knock it off with a few whacks with a hammer or small pot.

• For a round squash, place it stem side up on the cutting board and use a sharp chef’s knife to slice straight down to cut it in half. You may have to rock it a little and carefully place the heel of your hand on the back of the knife blade to lean into it. Once halved, scoop out the seeds. Cut the squash in 1- to 2-inch wedges and place each on its side on the cutting board so you can use your chef’s knife to trim the skin off, cutting straight down and taking it off in sections. You can also use a paring knife to pare the skin. A peeler may not be up to the task with thicker skinned squash.

By Robin Asbell

Photography Terry Brennan

Food Styling Lara Miklasevics