Craft Beer at the Table

From food pairings to beer-infused recipes, adding craft brews into your culinary endeavors promises delicious fall meals

Craft beer has been making waves in the culinary scene in the past few years, and fall is a great time to try it in your own kitchen. If you want to try a beerinfused recipe, look no further than “Lush: A Season-by-Season Celebration of Craft Beer and Produce” by Jacquelyn Dodd. Long gone are the days where beer is used only for grilled meat or cookout fare. In “Lush,” Dodd proves that beer can be used for a full range of intricate vegetarian dishes. Recipes include a side of Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Beer and Leek Sauce or a delicious Coconut-Fig French Toast Casserole for breakfast, all organized by season to take into account the beer that we love to sip during the cooler autumn days and the produce that is readily available. After all, as Dodd writes in the introduction, beer is as seasonal as produce.

Pairing an entrée with a beer may seem simple, but it’s actually an art and takes some practice. Dive into the world of craft beer pairings with help from “The Beer Lover’s Table: Seasonal Recipes and Modern Beer Pairings” by Claire Bullen and Jen Ferguson. Their recipes come along with beer pairing recommendations from classic lagers to pumpkin ales, and to help you learn how to build your own perfect pair, we have also included an excerpt from the book’s guide to food and beer pairings.

And of course, there’s no rule against pairing a beer-infused dish with a delicious, complementary brew. Whether you’re hoping to give a beer-infused dish a chance or sharpen your pairing skills, the following delicious fall recipes—and brews—will look good on your table. —Katie Ballalatak

Coconut-Fig French Toast Casserole MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Here’s how we can eat bread pudding for breakfast. We all know it’s really dessert, but we’re serving it with syrup and coffee, so it must be breakfast! We collectively nod along as we eat our dessert first, but sometimes that’s exactly what you need to do. The candy-like sweetness of the figs adds a surprisingly beautiful, new flavor and texture to an old classic, making you wonder why figs aren’t a staple in all your dessertfor-breakfast endeavors.

1 (1-pound) challah loaf, cut into cubes 20 black Mission figs, cut into quarters 1 cup whole milk ¾ cup Belgian dubbel 1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk, shaken 1 cup, packed golden brown sugar 6 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup dried coconut flakes whipped cream or pure maple syrup, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly grease a 9×13-inch baking dish. 2. Arrange the bread cubes in an even layer in the prepared baking dish. Scatter the fig quarters evenly over the bread. 3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the milk, beer, coconut milk, brown sugar, eggs, vanilla and salt. Pour the mixture over the bread and figs, pressing down on the bread to make sure it is all submerged. Sprinkle the coconut flakes evenly over the casserole. 4. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and allow to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes to allow the bread to absorb the egg mixture (alternatively, you can refrigerate the casserole overnight before baking). 5. Bake for 35 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for an additional 20 to 25 minutes, until the center has puffed and the top has lightly browned. 6. Allow to cool slightly, then slice and serve with whipped cream or maple syrup.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “LUSH: A SEASONBY-SEASON CELEBRATION OF CRAFT BEER AND PRODUCE” BY JACQUELYN DODD © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF SURREY BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF AGATE PUBLISHING.

Fettuccine with Roasted Chickpeas and Kale in Lemon and Belgian Ale Cream Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

For a cold-weather meal, this tastes as bright as sunshine. One taste of the freshness of the kale and the pop of the lemon and you’ll be transported. We also need to take a second to mention the delightful crunch of the chickpeas, so addictive and crispy you might need to make a batch just for snacking.

1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon chili powder 1 pound fettuccine 5 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup Belgian quadrupel ½ cup half-and-half 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ cup shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 cups chopped kale

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Dry the chickpeas between paper towels or clean dishtowels until they are completely dry to the touch. Spread out the chickpeas in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Add the olive oil and salt, tossing to coat the chickpeas. 3. Roast until the chickpeas are golden brown and crispy, about 20 minutes. Transfer the roasted chickpeas to a bowl. Add the black pepper and chili powder, tossing to coat. 4. Cook the pasta according to the package directions until just before it is al dente. Drain and set aside. 5. Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beer, half-and-half and lemon juice and reduce the heat to medium to maintain a simmer. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, about 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until melted before adding more. Simmer the sauce until it thickens. Stir in the kale. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 6. Combine the pasta and sauce in a serving dish. Add the chickpeas and toss before serving.

Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Beer and Leek Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Roast up some cauliflower and you’ll have no idea what the haters are talking about. The mild and slightly nutty flavor is perfect in so many dishes. Serve it with a creamy leek sauce, and dunk to your heart’s content. Leeks bring a bright, sweet, pleasantly oniony flavor that balances beautifully with the cauliflower. While leeks peak in winter … they begin their season in fall.

1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 large leeks, white and light green parts only, chopped ¼ cup Belgian dubbel ¼ cup half-and-half ¼ cup reduced-sodium vegetable broth

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Scatter the cauliflower florets on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with the olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper, tossing to coat. Roast until a fork easily pierces the cauliflower, about 35 minutes. 3. Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the beer, half-and-half, broth, remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and remaining ½ teaspoon of pepper. Simmer until the sauce thickens, about 6 minutes. 4. Transfer to a blender, allow to cool slightly, and blend until smooth. 5. Transfer the cauliflower to a serving dish. Drizzle it with the sauce if desired or serve it on the side for dipping.

Chinese Glazed Baby Back Ribs MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Ribs tend to conjure images of sweat-streaked pit masters and smoke-clogged barbecues. Fair enough, then, if you’ve ever hesitated to make them at home, but note that these ribs require none of those pyrotechnics—or even a grill—to achieve bold flavor and real tenderness. All they need, in fact, is to marinate for 24 hours in the refrigerator and then cook low and slow in the oven. There are very few limits as far as marinade ingredients are concerned, but I like this Chinese-inspired version, which blends the funk of hoisin, saline soy sauce, fragrant five-spice powder and sweet honey.

Pair With: a schwarzbier. Schwarzbiers—which translates to “black beers”—traditionally hail from central and east Germany, and are brewed with dark-roasted malts and lager yeast. That combination of roasty toasty flavors with refreshing drinkability works a treat alongside these rich, burnished ribs. Editor’s Note: The author recommends Anspach & Hobday Das Schwarzbier (U.K.), Bohem Brewery Druid (U.K.) or Suarez Family Bones Shirt (U.S.) for the paired beer. If you cannot find the Suarez Family Brewery’s Bones Shirt from Hudson, New York, try looking for New Belgium Brewing’s 1554 Black Lager or Guinness’ Black Lager instead.

1 rack (about 3 pounds) baby back ribs, trimmed and cut into individual riblets 1 tablespoon Chinese five-spice powder ½ cup hoisin sauce 3 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons clear honey 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1½ tablespoons sesame oil 1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or sake (See Cook’s Note) 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 to 3 spicy red chili peppers such as bird’s-eye, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish (optional) 2 to 3 scallions, thinly sliced, to garnish

1. Start marinating the ribs 24 hours before cooking. Add the ribs and five-spice powder to a large zip-top bag or nonreactive bowl, and toss until evenly coated. 2. Mix together the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, honey, rice vinegar, sesame oil, Shaoxing rice wine or sake, garlic, ginger and chili peppers in a small bowl. Pour the sauce over the ribs and shake or mix to coat evenly. Seal the bag or cover the bowl, and chill in the refrigerator for 24 hours. 3. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a large baking sheet with foil and put a wire rack on top. Remove the ribs from the marinade and place in a single layer on the rack (return the marinade to the refrigerator). Cover the ribs tightly with foil and cook in the oven for 1 hour. 4. Remove the ribs from the oven and brush with half of the remaining marinade. Cover and cook for a further 20 to 30 minutes, or until the ribs are completely fork-tender. Flip with tongs and brush on the remaining marinade, then cook, uncovered, for a final 5 minutes, or until the ribs are dark and sticky. 5. Once the ribs are fully cooked, let cool for 10 minutes. Garnish with the sliced red chilies (if using) and scallions and serve. Cook’s Note: If you don’t have Shaoxing rice wine, you can use pale dry sherry or white wine as a substitute.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “THE BEER LOVERS TABLE: SEASONAL RECIPES AND MODERN BEER PAIRINGS” BY CLAIRE BULLEN AND JEN FERGUSON © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION BY DOG ‘N’ BONE BOOKS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEPHEN CONROY © 2019 DOG ‘N’ BONE BOOKS.

Butternut Squash Risotto MAKES 4 TO 5 SERVINGS

There are a lot of myths about risotto, the most persistent being that it is necessary to stir it constantly as it cooks (given that risotto takes 30 to 40 minutes to make, that’s a lot of arm work). Other recipes advocate a totally hands-off approach, leaving the rice and liquid to simmer together undisturbed. I prefer a method that’s somewhere in the middle. By keeping the heat low, including several large additions of liquid, and stirring occasionally rather than constantly, the result is rich and creamy without being sticky and overworked. Add cubes of butternut squash, a grating of nutmeg and fried sage leaves to lend this risotto a particularly autumnal appeal.

Pair With: a pumpkin beer. There are a lot of iterations out there these days (likely more so in the U.S., the spiritual home of the style, than other places), from pumpkin-coffee stouts to pumpkin-flavored lagers. Here, go for a classic version of the style—perhaps one with just enough hoppy bitterness to stand up to the risotto’s richness. Editor’s Note: The author recommends River Horse Brewing Hipp-o-Lantern Imperial Pumpkin Ale, Southern Tier Imperial Pumking or Two Roads Roadsmary’s Baby—all available in the U.S. If you cannot find these specific beers, look for the nationally distributed Blue Moon Harvest Pumpkin Wheat.

1 small butternut squash (about 2 pounds) 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 large onion, finely diced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1½ cups Arborio rice 4½ cups chicken stock, plus extra if needed 1 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 20 fresh sage leaves ¾ cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra to serve nutmeg, preferably freshly grated, to serve

1. First, prepare the squash. Slice off the top and bottom, and remove the skin using a chef’s knife or strong peeler. Slice in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and cut into roughly ½-inch cubes. Set aside. 2. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to a large, deep skillet and place over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the squash and season well with sea salt and black pepper. Sauté the squash until just fork-tender and beginning to brown (about 10 to 12 minutes). Transfer the squash to a bowl and set aside. 3. Wipe out the skillet and return to the stovetop. Add the remaining olive oil and place over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for approximately 5 minutes, or until softened and beginning to turn translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. 4. Add the dry rice to the skillet and stir until evenly coated with oil. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Pour over roughly half the stock, or until the rice is just covered with the liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the stock is absorbed. 5. Add the wine and half the remaining stock. Add half the squash at this stage; it will start to melt into the risotto. Keep the risotto at a simmer, stirring occasionally to encourage creaminess and stop it sticking to the skillet. 6. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Once the butter has just melted, but before it starts to foam, add the sage leaves in a single layer. Fry the leaves for about 3 minutes, or until they are crispy and the butter is browned, but not burned—watch attentively, as this process happens quickly. Remove from the heat and set aside. 7. Once most of the liquid has been absorbed, add the remainder of the stock to the risotto. Cook, stirring frequently, until the risotto is thick and creamy, and the rice still has just a bit of bite. Stir through the remainder of the squash. Season to taste. If the rice is still a bit too al dente for your taste, or if you prefer risotto on the thinner side, add more stock a little at a time. 8. When the risotto is ready, remove the skillet from the heat and add the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Drain the browned butter from the sage leaves and fold through the risotto. Divide the risotto between plates. Top with a good grating of nutmeg, a generous amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano and the fried sage leaves. Serve immediately. 

ESSENTIAL PRINCIPLES OF FOOD AND BEER PAIRING

Excerpt from “The Beer Lover’s Table”

Why does beer pair so well with food? Quite simply, its enormous variety of flavors, aromas and ingredients make it phenomenally versatile. Malted grains lend it a caramelized sweetness, roasty flavors and nuttiness. Hops impart bitterness, boldness and vibrant aromatics. Yeast, especially German and Belgian varieties, bestows fruit and spice notes. Bacteria add sourness, while barrel-aging gives beer richness, a luxurious mouthfeel and woodiness. Additional ingredients, ranging from fruits and spices to coffee—and even shellfish—contribute yet another vector of flavor.

In short, as Garrett Oliver notes in “The Brewmaster’s Table,” “You can easily see that beer is an amazingly complex beverage, so it is not surprising that beer has so much to offer food.” But don’t feel intimidated by beer’s multitudes. Instead, follow these basic pairing principles, which make it easy to craft a successful match.

Intensity

Arguably the most important factor to consider when matching food and beer is intensity: In most cases, you’re after a pairing in which each element engages the other, an equal dialogue between parties. … Try [a] witbier and white fish together, and pair short ribs [with a] stout—both are well matched in terms of impact, boldness and intensity.

Complementary pairings

Once you’ve matched your pairings by intensity, there’s room to experiment further. One foolproof method is to pair like with like and marry complementary flavors. A sweet chocolate stout and a slice of chocolate cake, for instance, are a tried-and-true duo. … To forge a complementary match, seek out beers and dishes that share flavors (or even ingredients).

Contrasting pairings

Contrasting food and beer pairings can also work splendidly. Keep richness, acidity and bitterness in mind: To contrast the creaminess of a chocolate mousse, for example, turn to a raspberry lambic, whose tartness and bright fruit notes provide a counterbalancing effect. Spicy dishes, meanwhile, don’t tend to pair well with IPAs, as the style’s hoppy bitterness only enhances the heat. Instead, a sweeter, maltier style, like a brown ale, helps put out the flames. That hoppy IPA is better used as a foil for rich, unctuous dishes.

Carbonation and mouthfeel

Often overlooked in favor of flavor and aromatics, mouthfeel … can have a significant impact on pairings. Highly carbonated beers, such as lagers … are excellent with creamy and mouth-coating dishes, as the bubbles help to “scrub” the palate clean between bites. On the complementary side, a beer with a viscous and rich mouthfeel pairs well with a similarly indulgent cheese or dessert.

Proximity and seasonality

“What grows together, goes together” is an old adage used for food and wine pairings. While this concept doesn’t directly translate to beer … there are still cases in which traditional, location-specific styles pair well with food from the same respective regions. … Beers made with seasonal ingredients—pumpkin beers, fruit-infused sours—tend to pair well with comparably seasonal dishes.

COCONUT-FIG FRENCH TOAST CASSEROLE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 721; FAT 24g (sat. 15g); CHOL 219mg; SODIUM 542mg; CARB 114g; FIBER 7g; ADDED SUGARS 38g; PROTEIN 17g

FETTUCCINE W. CHICKPEAS & KALE IN ALE CREAM SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 815; FAT 37g (sat. 16g); CHOL 144mg; SODIUM 1080mg; CARB 96g; FIBER 9g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 25g

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER W. CREAMY BEER & LEEK SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 193; FAT 12g (sat. 4g); CHOL 13mg; SODIUM 563mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 5g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 5g

CHINESE GLAZED BABY BACK RIBS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 617; FAT 36g (sat. 12g); CHOL 138mg; SODIUM 1284mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 3g; ADDED SUGARS 22g; PROTEIN 40g

BUTTERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 702; FAT 30g (sat. 11g); CHOL 37mg; SODIUM 410mg; CARB 88g; FIBER 7g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 21g