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Holiday Buffet

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The Soul of Food

The Soul of Food

Enjoy your own party with a mostly make-ahead buffet-style dinner

Whether you’re celebrating the holidays or catching up with friends and family before the new year rolls around, the winter months are the time for gathering together around a sumptuous meal. The only trouble is that putting on the Ritz can often feel like too much effort during this busy season. The solution is a buffet menu easy enough to allow you to enjoy your own party but fancy enough for a special occasion.

Shrimp cocktail with cilantro-lime cocktail sauce and deviled eggs with dill and lemon.

The following menu centers around entertaining classics, including shrimp cocktail, beef tenderloin, roasted vegetables and a chocolate-truffle tart for dessert, but each has a contemporary twist to make it feel fresh yet familiar. Plus a spinach-and-onion lasagna serves double-duty as a side dish or a main course for vegetarian guests.

Throughout the recipes, you’ll find tips on how to get ahead and a timeline for the few days leading up to your party. You’ll even find turkey roasting tips if you’re hosting one of the big holiday feasts and want to swap out the beef for turkey—or if you have a really full house, you may want to serve both. For an extended cocktail hour, consider offering a cheese board and/or deviled eggs along with shrimp cocktail. While the menu is well rounded, for something fresh, add a simple green salad, or—better yet—enlist someone to bring one.

Shrimp Cocktail with Cilantro-Lime Cocktail Sauce

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Create a tasty twist on this classic appetizer with lime, ginger and fresh cilantro. For the sweetest, most tender shrimp, cook them yourself using this quick broth and no-boil method.

For the Sauce

3/4 cup ketchup

3/4 cup chile sauce

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 to 3 tablespoons prepared horseradish, to taste

1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger

1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce

2 to 3 dashes of hot sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste 1

/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

For the Shrimp

3/4 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 small carrot, thinly sliced

1 or 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon salt, any kind

1/4 teaspoon whole allspice

16 to 20 extra-large shrimp in the shell

1. Make the sauce: Combine the sauce ingredients in a bowl and stir to combine. Add more horseradish or hot sauce to taste. Chill before serving.

2. Cook the shrimp: Combine 2 quarts water, wine, vinegar, carrot, garlic, bay leaf, salt and the allspice in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, partially cover, and then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside.

3. Add the shrimp to the simmering broth, cover the pot and return to a simmer for 1 minute. Immediately turn off heat, and let sit, covered, for 8 minutes. Drain in a strainer, and quickly rinse with cool water before plunging into ice bath to chill. Let chill thoroughly, about 10 minutes.

4. Drain again, picking out and discarding any vegetables. Peel and arrange the shrimp on a platter. Serve with sauce for dipping or refrigerate until serving (see Cook’s Notes).

Cook’s Notes:

• If you prefer to buy precooked shrimp the day before the party, get 21/2 to 3 pounds (16 to 20) cooked extra-large shrimp, peeled with tails left on, and chill well before serving.

• Make ahead: The sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator. Cooked shrimp can be kept in the coldest part of your refrigerator for up to 1 day. Store them over a bowl of ice covered with a layer of plastic wrap for extra insurance.

• You will have some extra cocktail sauce. Nutrition information is calculated using half for total number of servings.

Deviled Eggs with Dill and Lemon

If you want a little something extra to put out with the shrimp cocktail, dress up your standard deviled egg formula by adding fresh lemon juice, a drizzle of honey, softened butter and fresh dill to the yolks along with the mayonnaise (figure 1/2 teaspoon softened butter per egg and the rest to taste). Refrigerate overnight before serving. It’s a small change from the classic recipe, but the results are remarkable.

Spice-roasted beef tenderloin with creamy mustard sauce

Spice-Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Creamy Mustard Sauce

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

A warming spice mix of coriander, cumin, caraway and paprika gives beef tenderloin an added dimension without overshadowing the splendor of this elegant roast. A bit of salt and sugar in the rub also enhances the beef’s tenderness and savory flavor. For best taste and texture, season the beef 24 to 36 hours ahead. Delicious on its own, roast tenderloin is even better when paired with the quick mustard sauce recipe that follows.

1 tablespoon coriander seed

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seed

1 teaspoon caraway seed

2 teaspoons brown sugar, light or dark

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon paprika, sweet or hot

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 whole beef tenderloin (4 to 5 pounds), trimmed and tied

1. Combine the coriander, cumin and caraway in a small skillet, and heat over medium heat, shaking to prevent burning, until fragrant and starting to darken, about 4 minutes. Let cool. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and grind to a coarse powder. Combine with the sugar, salt, paprika and black pepper. Pat the beef dry with paper towels and rub the spice mix all over. Place on a baking sheet or large platter and refrigerate, loosely covered, for 24 to 36 hours.

2. Heat the oven to 375°F. Let the roast sit at room temperature while the oven heats.

3. Put the roast on a flat wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet (see Cook’s Notes). Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 120°F for rare, 125°F to 130°F for medium-rare, or 135°F for medium, 40 to 50 minutes.

4. Transfer to a carving board to rest for at least 15 minutes. Remove the string and carve into 1⁄3-inch-thick slices. Serve warm or at room temperature with mustard sauce on the side.

Cook’s Notes:

• Don’t use a standard roasting rack for the beef because the high sides will cause it to steam. If you don’t have a flat wire rack for roasting, just put the beef directly on the baking sheet or crunch a long sheet of aluminum foil into a snake and make an S-shape rack to support the roast.

• When testing for doneness, be sure to check in several places and keep in mind that the natural baseball-bat-like shape of a whole tenderloin (a thicker butt end tapering to a thin tail end) ensures a mix of doneness—rosier pieces from the slower-cooking thick end and more well-done pieces from the tail end.

• Slice only as much beef as you plan to serve; leftovers keep better unsliced.

• Make ahead: Roast tenderloin is excellent warm, at room temperature or even slightly chilled, allowing the flexibility to cook it anywhere from a couple of hours to a full day ahead. The mustard sauce may be made up to 3 days ahead and kept covered and refrigerated. Serve the sauce at room temperature if the beef is served warm or chilled if the beef is chilled.

Creamy Mustard Sauce

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Delicious with roast tenderloin, this sauce is also good on leftover roast beef sandwiches.

1 cup crème fraîche

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice salt, to taste

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, mustard and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt.

Spinach and Onion Lasagna

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The key to a good lasagna is to make sure that every layer brings something to the party and that they all combine into one harmonious whole—and that’s exactly what happens here. There’s a creamy onion sauce, plenty of garlic-and-shallot sautéed spinach, a rich ricotta and cottage cheese filling, and a good mix of Fontina and Parmesan cheeses. Using no-boil noodles saves a step in putting it together, and it makes the finished dish light enough to serve as a side for a holiday roast. It also makes a great vegetarian main course.

For the spinach

2 bags (9- to 10-ounces each) leaf spinach, preferably not baby, just washed

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon ground fennel seed

pinch red pepper flakes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the white sauce

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound (about 2 medium) yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 quart (4 cups) whole milk, divided

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the cheese and assembly

1 tub (15- to 16-ounce) whole milk ricotta

1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk cottage cheese

2 large eggs, beaten

12 ounces Italian fontina, shredded (3 cups)

4 ounces Parmesan, finely grated (1 cup)

1 (9-ounce) box no-boil lasagna noodles

1. Pile the spinach in a large covered skillet with the water that clings to it after washing (see Cook’s Notes). Cover and put over medium heat. Cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until wilted, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a colander and set aside to cool.

2. Meanwhile, make the white sauce: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onions, season with salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are collapsed and very tender but not at all browned, about 25 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Gradually stir in 2 cups of milk, about 1/4 cup at a time, taking care to keep the mixture smooth. Once smooth, add the remaining milk and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. Simmer until thick, about 2 minutes. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

3. Once the spinach is cooled, squeeze it dry and then chop coarsely. Dry out the skillet used for the spinach and place over medium heat. Add the olive oil, shallots, garlic, fennel and red pepper. Sauté until softened and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the chopped spinach and sauté, stirring, until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta, cottage cheese, eggs and two-thirds of the Parmesan. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper.

5. Heat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish or lasagna pan.

6. To assemble: Place the noodles in a shallow pan and pour over enough hot tap water to cover. Let sit until a little soft but not fully pliable, about 4 minutes. Drain and arrange on a clean kitchen towel to dry. Spread 1/2 cup of the white sauce in the bottom of the baking dish, and then stir the spinach mixture into the remaining white sauce, mixing to combine. Arrange a layer of noodles over the sauce, cutting them as needed so they fit without overlapping. Spread over one-third of the spinach-white-sauce mixture, top with one-third of the ricotta mixture, followed by about 3/4 cup of fontina cheese. Top with another layer of noodles, and continue layering spinach-white-sauce, ricotta, fontina and noodles until you have 4 layers of noodles sandwiching 3 layers of fillings. Sprinkle the remaining fontina and Parmesan over the final layer of noodles. Spray the dull side of a sheet of foil with pan spray (or brush with olive oil), and cover the casserole. If not baking right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days. 7. Bake, covered, until the filling is heated through and you see a few bubbles around the edge, 25 minutes if not refrigerated (40 minutes if refrigerated). Remove the foil and continue to bake until bubbly and browned on top, another 20 to 25 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve.

Cook’s Notes:

• For the best flavor and texture, use fresh spinach and wilt it using just the water left on the leaves after washing. If the spinach comes prewashed, simply add about 1/3 cup water to the skillet before adding the spinach. To save time, you can substitute two 10-ounce boxes of frozen spinach. Thaw and drain before sautéing with the shallots and garlic as directed.

• Briefly soaking the no-boil noodles before assembling makes them pliable enough to cut to fit the pan without shattering. It also ensures that they won’t soak up too much moisture and leave you with a dry casserole. When layering the noodles, don’t let them overlap, and don’t worry if they don’t reach all the way to the edges; they expand as they bake.

• Make ahead: The lasagna may be refrigerated for up to 3 days before baking. Once baked, it may be frozen for up to 2 months. To serve, defrost overnight in the refrigerator, and then bake, covered, at 350°F until heated through, about 30 minutes.

Spinach and onion lasagna

Roasted cauliflower and broccoli caesar-style

Roasted Cauliflower and Broccoli Caesar-Style

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Tender and sweet, roasted cauliflower and broccoli are delicious on their own, but they’re better still when dressed up with the elements of a Caesar dressing: lemon, garlic and Parmesan.

1 large head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), broken into 1-inch florets

2 pounds broccoli, broken into 1-inch florets, stalks peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 small lemons (use Meyer lemons if available), well-scrubbed, sliced into thin rounds and seeded

3 to 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1/2 cup grated Parmesan

1. Heat the oven to 425°F with racks in the upper and lower thirds. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Combine the cauliflower and broccoli in a large bowl. Toss with 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to the baking sheets, dividing the vegetables evenly and spreading into loose layers. Combine the lemon and garlic in the now-empty bowl. Toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set aside.

3. Roast the vegetables until they begin to soften and brown in spots, 20 minutes. Add the lemon and garlic to the baking sheets, dividing evenly, and toss with a metal spatula to combine. Continue to roast until everything is browned and tender, another 10 minutes. Sprinkle the Parmesan over the vegetables and return the sheets to the oven until cheese melts, another 5 minutes. (Your total roasting time is 35 minutes.)

4. Combine vegetables in a heat-proof serving dish and serve warm or at room temperature.

Cook’s Notes:

• The best lemons to use are small thin-skinned ones. If Meyer lemons are available, they are especially nice, because their peels lack the bitterness of ordinary lemons. Either way, be sure to scrub the peel well before slicing, since you eat the whole thing. And don’t forget to pick out the seeds.

• Make ahead: These are delicious hot from the oven or at room temperature. You can also roast the vegetables a couple hours ahead. To serve, re-warm directly in the serving dish for about 10 minutes in a moderate oven.

Chocolate truffle tart with pecan-graham crust

Chocolate Truffle Tart with Pecan-Graham Crust

MAKES ONE 9- OR 10-INCH TART, SERVES 10 TO 12

As dense and rich as a chocolate truffle, serve this sophisticated tart in very thin slices either at room temperature or with a slight chill. The optional chocolate glaze leaves it with a shiny top layer—and another dimension of chocolate—but the tart is perfectly delicious without it.

For the crust

1/2 cup (2 ounces) pecan halves or pieces

7 (5- by 21/4-inch) graham crackers (31/2 ounces), or 1 cup crumbs

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger pinch salt

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

For the filling

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, very finely chopped or chips

1 cup heavy cream

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch salt

For the glaze (optional)

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, very finely chopped or chips

2 tablespoons warm water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon light corn syrup toasted pecans, chopped, to garnish (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 325°F with a rack near the center.

2. For the crust: Combine the pecans, graham crackers, sugar, cinnamon, ginger and salt in a food processor. Pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the melted butter. Toss with a rubber spatula until well combined. Pour the crumb mixture into a 9- or 10-inch removable-bottom tart pan and press evenly onto the bottom and 1/2-inch up the sides of the pan. Set the pan on a baking sheet, and bake until fragrant and dry looking, 12 minutes. Let cool while you prepare the filling.

3. For the filling: Place the chocolate in a heatproof mixing bowl. Bring the cream to just below a boil in a small saucepan. Immediately pour the cream over the chocolate and let stand for 5 minutes. Gently stir until smooth. In another mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla, pepper and salt. Stir the egg mixture into the chocolate, mixing just until smooth.

4. Pour the filling into the crust. Bake until the filling is set and fine cracks appear around the edges, about 30 minutes. Cool completely in the pan on a rack, at least 1 hour. Remove tart ring.

5. For the glaze, if making: Combine the chocolate, water, butter and corn syrup in a small saucepan, and heat very gently over medium-low heat, stirring with a rubber spatula, until melted. Pour over the tart, smoothing the surface with a spatula. Decorate with chopped pecans, if using. Let set for at least 1 hour before serving. Cut into thin wedges to serve.

Cook’s Notes:

• There is not a lot of sugar in the filling, so look for a chocolate that has no more than 70 percent cocoa solids. Anything darker won’t have enough sweetness to carry the filling. If you want a less intense chocolate dessert, choose a chocolate in the 50 to 60 percent range.

• For an added treat, try candied pecans: Heat 1/2 cup brown sugar, a dash of salt and 1 or 2 tablespoons water in a skillet over medium heat. Once sugar is dissolved and bubbly, add pecans. Heat for about 3 minutes, stirring to coat the pecans. Remove from heat and spread out pecans on parchment paper to set and cool completely.

• Make ahead: The tart may be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

BY MOLLY STEVENS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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