Soup’s On

TOM YUM SOUP WITH SHRIMP OR TOFU

Soup’sOnSteaming soup dishes up comforting international flavors BY ROBIN ASBELL

Soup is a universal comfort food around the globe. Whether it is creamy, brothy, chunky or smooth, soup crosses all boundaries, ready to spoon up for lunch or dinner. If your soup repertoire has become routine, it’s time to try some new soups that each reflect the flavors of a global cuisine.

Making a delicious soup doesn’t need to take hours, thanks to prepared stocks, canned beans and canned tomatoes. In these soups, the flavors are easily created at home with accessible ingredients. Spanish Chickpea and Chorizo Stew gets a little heat from the sausage. You can also easily customize your homemade soups—enjoy the creamy African Peanut Soup or Thai Tom Yum Soup with just a little heat or add more spice to suit your palate. If you lean toward creamy soups, Beer Cheese

Soup is packed with cheesy goodness and spiked with rye croutons.

Italian Creamy Chicken and Orzo Soup is just rich enough to feel decadent, but not so heavy that you can’t eat a big bowl for dinner. Because soups go well with freshly baked breads, I have included a recipe for Scallion Drop Biscuits. Drop biscuits are made with a softer dough, easy to scoop and “drop” right on the pan, so you don’t have to roll or cut them. The results are tender and laced with perky green scallions for a perfect accompaniment to your soups.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Creamy Chicken and Orzo Soup

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS (12 CUPS)

The Italian flavors in this soup are crowd-pleasers—the combination of tender chicken, orzo and vegetables in a creamy soup is irresistible. This makes a big batch of soup, and if you have leftovers, the pasta will absorb some of the liquids, so just stir in a little stock to make it soup again, then reheat.

12 ounces chicken breast, cooked, shredded (see Cook’s Note) 2 tablespoons butter 1 large onion, chopped 1 large carrot, chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 medium zucchini, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped ¼ cup all-purpose flour 6 cups chicken stock 1 (15-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes, with juices 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1 cup orzo or riso pasta 1 cup half-and-half 2 cups fresh spinach Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. To cook the chicken, heat the oven to 400°F. Place the breasts on an oiled sheet pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 160°F. Cool and chill until time to use. 2. Shred the chicken and reserve. Put on a 2-quart pot of salted water to cook the orzo. 3. In a large pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery, zucchini and garlic. Sauté for 5 minutes to soften the vegetables. 4. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until the flour is all moistened and the vegetables are coated. Stir in about 1 cup of stock, stirring well, then stir in the remaining stock, tomatoes, thyme, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to simmer for 10 minutes. 5. Cook the orzo according to package directions, about 9 minutes, and drain. 6. When the vegetables are tender, add the half-and-half and chopped spinach, and stir until the spinach is wilted and bright green. Add the orzo and chicken, and stir frequently until heated through. Serve with Parmesan grated over each bowl. Cook’s Note: For the chicken, 12 ounces boneless makes about 1½ cups shredded. If you would like to use rotisserie chicken, measure out just this amount for the soup; a whole bird usually yields about 4 cups, so save the remainder for another use.

Scallion Drop Biscuits

MAKES 10

A fast way to have warm bread with your soup is to make drop biscuits. These tender, buttery gems are easy—no rolling and cutting—simply scoop the dough right on to the baking sheet. They are flecked with green bits of scallion for a mild onion flavor that goes well with soup.

1 cup unbleached flour 1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup (½ stick) chilled unsalted butter ½ cup chopped scallions ¾ cup buttermilk 1 large egg

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and heat oven to 400°F. 2. In a large bowl, mix flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Shred cold butter into the flour and toss to coat. Stir in scallions. 3. In a cup, whisk the buttermilk and egg until mixed. 4. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture, just until all the flour is incorporated. Use a slightly rounded ¼ cup measure or ice cream scoop to scoop the batter and drop onto the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden. 5. Cool slightly on a rack and serve warm.

CREAMY CHICKEN AND ORZO SOUP WTH SCALLION DROP BISCUITS

SPANISH CHICKPEA AND CHORIZO STEW

Spanish Chickpea and Chorizo Stew

MAKES 6 SERVINGS (ABOUT 8 CUPS)

This colorful stew gets a flavor boost from Spanish chorizo, a dry sausage packed with peppery cured pork. Saffron gives it a golden tint and an earthy flavor, redolent of the Mediterranean. If you haven’t used saffron before, it’s an ancient seasoning comprised of the stigma and styles plucked from the center of a special saffron crocus. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped 12 ounces chorizo links (aged Spanish kind, not Mexican), sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pinch saffron, crumbled 4 medium potatoes, chopped 4 cups chicken stock 1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juices 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup parsley, chopped

1. In a large pot, warm olive oil over medium-high heat and add onions and peppers, and stir for a minute, then add the chorizo, garlic and saffron, and sauté for at least 5 minutes to soften. 2. Add potatoes and stir, then add stock, tomatoes, chickpeas and salt. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. 3. Cover the pot and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a paring knife. 4. Stir in the parsley and serve, or cool and refrigerate, tightly covered, up to 4 days.

BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITH RYE BREAD CROUTONS

Beer-Cheese Soup with Rye Bread Croutons

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (6 CUPS SOUP AND 3 CUPS CROUTONS)

The classic pairing of beer and cheddar makes a soup that harkens back to Germany and its long brewing tradition. The rye bread croutons add some crunch to the creamy, cheesy soup. Be sure to use a lager or other mild, non-hoppy beer. An IPA or other bitter beer will overwhelm the soup.

For the Croutons 3 cups cubed rye bread 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon dried thyme ¼ teaspoon salt

For the Soup 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups finely chopped onion ½ cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 cups chicken broth 12 ounces lager beer, preferably flat 1 cup milk 8 ounces (2 cups) shredded cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup chopped chives or scallions

1. Make the croutons. Heat the oven to 350°F. On a sheet pan, place the rye bread cubes. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with thyme and salt, then toss to coat. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the bread cubes are toasted and crisp but not too brown. Cool on a rack. If you want to make these ahead of time, they will keep in an airtight container for 1 week. 2. In a large soup pot over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and sauté until tender but not brown, about 10 minutes. 3. Sprinkle the flour over the contents of the pan and stir in with a wooden spoon or heatsafe spatula to make sure there are no lumps. Stir over medium heat for a couple of minutes to cook the flour. 4. Stir in the Dijon mustard, then gradually whisk in the chicken broth, beer and milk. Stir frequently until the mixture starts to bubble and thicken. Don’t boil, reduce the heat to low. 5. Whisk in the cheese and salt, until the cheese is melted and smooth. Take off the heat. 6. Serve in bowls, topped with chives and rye croutons.

African Peanut Soup with Kale

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (6 CUPS)

Peanuts, which are also known as “groundnuts,” are made into a creamy soup or stew in West Africa, and it’s a meatless meal that has all the satisfaction of a meaty one. Peanut butter isn’t just for sandwiches—it makes a rich, hearty soup when blended with vegetable stock and spices. Simmered with a colorful array of vegetables and chickpeas, this soup delivers the flavor you love, in a bowl. This is delicious with cooked millet or rice, too.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 large carrot, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup smooth, unsweetened peanut butter 2 cups vegetable stock 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 (15-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes and juice 1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained 2 cups kale, chopped ½ teaspoon salt Hot sauce, to taste

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and carrot, and sauté over medium heat until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a few minutes more, stirring. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk the peanut butter and a little of the vegetable stock to make a completely smooth paste. Blend the rest of the vegetable stock into the mixture. 3. Add the paprika, cumin and cayenne to the onion mixture, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the peanut butter mixture, the tomatoes, beans, kale and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce to a low simmer. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, and season to taste with salt and hot sauce, if desired.

Tom Yum Soup with Shrimp or Tofu

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (ABOUT 6 CUPS) | PHOTO ON PAGE 30

The spicy, sour and salty flavors of Thai food are balanced in this soup, with a hint of chili, a dash of fish sauce and a dose of tangy lime. It can be prepared with shrimp and fish sauce or made vegan or vegetarian with tofu and soy sauce. For a more filling meal, serving it over a spoonful of warm, cooked rice is delicious.

4 cups vegetable stock 1 teaspoon red curry paste 1 large carrot, chopped 4 ounces shiitake mushroom, sliced 2 large red jalapeños, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped 2 tablespoons fish sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice, and zest pared off 1 pound large shrimp or firm tofu ½ cup fresh Thai or regular basil, shredded cooked rice for serving, if desired

1. In a large pot, combine the stock and curry paste, mashing the paste to incorporate. Bring to a boil, then add the carrot, mushrooms, jalapeños, garlic, ginger, fish sauce or soy sauce, and the strip of zest from the lime, reserving the juice. 2. Bring to a boil and cover, then simmer for 10 minutes, until the carrots are very tender. 3. Stir in the lime juice and shrimp or tofu, and bring to a boil again, then reduce to simmer gently until the shrimp are pink, about 5 minutes, or the tofu is heated through. 4. Serve with cooked rice if desired, and sprinkle with shredded basil. n nutrition (per serving)

CREAMY CHICKEN AND ORZO SOUP:

CALORIES: 330, FAT: 14G (SAT: 5G), CHOLESTEROL: 35MG, SODIUM: 990MG, CARB: 39G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 14G

SCALLION DROP BISCUITS:

PER BISCUIT: CALORIES: 140, FAT: 6G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 30 MG, SODIUM: 280MG, CARB: 21G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 4G

SPANISH CHICKPEA AND CHORIZO STEW:

CALORIES: 360, FAT: 14G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 60 MG, SODIUM: 1220MG, CARB: 43 G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 19G

BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITH RYE BREAD CROUTONS:

CALORIES: 740, FAT: 47G (SAT: 24G), CHOLESTEROL: 110 MG, SODIUM: 2250MG, CARB: 52 G, FIBER: 5G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 23G

BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITHOUT CROUTONS (SOUP ONLY):

CALORIES: 560, FAT: 39G (SAT: 22G), CHOLESTEROL: 110MG, SODIUM: 1810MG, CARB: 29G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 8G, PROTEIN: 19G

RYE BREAD CROUTONS:

CALORIES: 180, FAT: 9G (SAT: 1.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 430MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 4G

AFRICAN PEANUT SOUP WITH KALE:

CALORIES: 370, FAT: 22G (SAT: 3.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 1070MG, CARB: 34G, FIBER: 10G, SUGAR: 11G, PROTEIN: 15G

TOM YUM SOUP WITH SHRIMP:

CALORIES: 120, FAT: 1.5G (SAT: 0G), CHOLESTEROL: 145MG, SODIUM: 1930MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 17G

TOM YUM SOUP WITH TOFU:

CALORIES: 140, FAT: 5G (SAT: 1G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 1320MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 14G