Spring Lamb

Try protein-rich lamb for a naturally tender and flavorful take on dinner

BY MOLLY STEVENS

We often think of roast lamb when planning springtime feasts and celebrations, but this delicious and nutritious meat is also worth considering for regular weeknight meals anytime of year. For starters, lamb is so naturally tender and flavorful that it takes only a little tinkering and coaxing to transform it into delectable dishes—simply season with salt and pepper and toss it in a skillet or into the oven. That said, the sweet, almost herbal taste of lamb pairs wonderfully with a range of flavorings from around the globe, making it adaptable to almost any preparation. From a health standpoint, lamb is nutrient dense, notably high in B vitamins, zinc, niacin and heart-healthy unsaturated fats. Additionally, lamb is produced in every state in this country—much of it grass-fed—so fresh, local lamb is increasingly available.

If lamb is not already a part of your regular cooking repertoire, here are five recipes using various cuts to give you a head start, including spice-marinated kebabs, Greek-inspired pita sandwiches, broiled chops with a fresh salsa, an elegant little roast and succulent slow-cooked shanks. Now that ought to get your juices flowing!

LAMB AND CARAMELIZED ONION PITAS WITH TAHINIYOGURT SAUCE

Lamb and Caramelized Onion Pitas with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Inspired by the traditional Greek gyro, these dinnertime sandwiches combine spiced ground lamb with sautéed onions and a creamy dill-spiked sauce. A handful of toppings adds crunch and zing. Serve with oven fries or a green salad to round out the meal.

For the Sauce

2 tablespoons tahini

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

¾ cup plain Greek yogurt

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Salt and black pepper, to taste

For the Filling

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 pound ground lamb

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Assembly

4 small or 2 large pitas (see Cook’s Notes)

2 cups loosely packed baby spinach

about ½ cup thinly sliced cucumbers

about ½ cup chopped cherry tomatoes

about ½ cup crumbled goat cheese or feta (optional)

Sliced pepperoncini, to taste (optional)

1. Prepare the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice and olive oil until smooth. If the tahini clumps, add a few drops of warm water and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the yogurt and dill, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

2. For the filling, heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender and golden, about 6 minutes. Scoop out the onions with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the oil behind. Return skillet to medium heat, and add the lamb, breaking it up with a spatula. Season with coriander, thyme, cinnamon, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lamb is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir the reserved onions into the lamb. Taste for seasoning and keep warm.

3. Spread a thick layer of yogurt sauce inside both sides of the pitas. Add a layer of spinach. Fill each with the lamb and onion mixture, and top as desired with cucumbers, tomatoes, and (if using) cheese and pepperoncini. Serve immediately.

Cook’s Note: If you buy large pitas (about 8 inches diameter), figure half per person. For smaller pitas (about 5 or 6 inches diameter), you’ll need a whole one, using the two halves per serving. Whole-wheat pitas tend to be sturdier than white ones, so they hold up better to the filling.

Mustard-Crusted Rack of Lamb

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | PHOTO ON PAGE 28

Few roasts are as elegant and easy as a rack of lamb, especially when prepared with a crunchy, savory breadcrumb coating. Accompany this with roasted new potatoes and steamed asparagus for a memorable spring feast.

2 racks of lamb, about 1¼ pounds each (see Cook’s Note)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon honey

2 tablespoons chopped scallion, white and pale green parts

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

¾ cup panko breadcrumbs

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Pat dry the racks of lamb, and season with salt and pepper.

2. Heat a large dry skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the lamb, meaty side down, pressing down with tongs, until nicely brown, about 2 minutes. Turn to quickly brown the other side, another 2 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board. If the skillet can’t accommodate both racks at once, repeat with the second rack. (This can be done up to 2 hours ahead; leave the lamb sit room temperature.)

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, mustard, honey, scallion and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the panko onto a large plate. Once the lamb is cool enough to handle, paint all over with the mustard mixture (the meat, not the bones), then roll in the breadcrumbs, pressing so they adhere.

4. Arrange the racks, bone-side down on a baking sheet, and roast until medium-rare (125 to 130°F internal temperature), 20 to 23 minutes, or until medium (135 to 140°F internal temperature), about 25 minutes.

5. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board. Carve down between the bones into double or individual chops and serve, scooping up any crust that falls off and scattering it over the chops.

Cook’s Note: Lamb racks usually come pretrimmed, or “frenched,” the term for trimming away the meat from the top part of the rack to expose the bones. This is primarily decorative and doesn’t affect the flavor. Either way, if the racks have a thick layer of surface fat, you will want to trim it down to just a thin layer before cooking.

Lamb Chops with Zhoug-Brown Butter Sauce

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Zhoug, a vibrant cilantro-chile salsa from Yemen, makes a stellar sauce for broiled lamb chops—especially when it’s enriched with a little brown butter. If there is any leftover sauce, spoon it over bread, tomatoes, eggs, or just about anything that needs a boost.

8 bone-in lamb chops (about 1½ pounds)

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1½ cups lightly packed cilantro, leaves and tender stems

½ cup lightly packed parsley, leaves and tender stems

1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, chopped

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon caraway seeds, finely ground

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon fine salt (or 3/4 teaspoon kosher), or to taste

⅛ teaspoon sugar (optional)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Pat dry the lamb chops and arrange them on a plate or tray. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Combine the cilantro, parsley, garlic, jalapeño, caraway, cumin, cardamom, salt and sugar (if using) in a food processor. Pulse to coarsely chop. Add the oil and water, and continue pulsing into a rough paste. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the herb paste onto the lamb chops, and rub it evenly over the surface of the chops. (The chops can be seasoned, covered with plastic, and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)

3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until toasty brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining herb paste, and remove from the heat. Taste for salt. Keep warm or at room temperature.

4. Heat the broiler to high and position a rack 4 inches from the heating element (or heat an outdoor grill to medium-hot). Broil (or grill), flipping halfway, until the chops are nicely browned on both sides and cooked to your liking, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve immediately, spooning the zhoug sauce over the top.

Cook’s Note: To use an instant-read thermometer to test the doneness of the chops, look for an internal temperature of 125°F for medium-rare, and 135°F for medium. Take care that the tip of the thermometer is inserted in the thickest part of the chop and does not touch the bone.

LAMB SHANKS BRAISED WITH GARLIC AND WHITE WINE

Lamb Shanks Braised with Garlic and White Wine

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Fall-apart tender and infused with rosemary, garlic and a hint of orange, meaty lamb shanks make a deeply satisfying meal. Serve them atop a pile of fluffy mashed potatoes, creamy polenta or buttered egg noodles— something to soak up all the delectable juices.

4 lamb shanks (¾ to 1 pound each)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 navel orange

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup chicken broth or water

6 garlic cloves, peeled

3 leafy sprigs fresh rosemary

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley (or a mix of parsley and mint)

1. Heat oven to 325°F. Pat dry lamb shanks and season them all over with salt and pepper. Use a vegetable peeler to remove 3 strips of zest from the orange, then squeeze the juice from the orange. Set both aside.

2. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large Dutch oven or other heavy braising pot. Add as many shanks as will fit in a single layer, and brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes total. Set the browned shanks on a platter or tray to catch any drippings. Repeat with any remaining shanks. When all the shanks are browned, pour off and discard the fat from the pan.

3. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the wine and reserved orange juice. Simmer, stirring to dislodge any brown bits on the bottom of the pan, until reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, broth (or water), garlic, rosemary and reserved orange zest, and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the tomato paste.

4. Return the shanks to the pan, cover and slide into the lower third of the oven. Braise, turning the shanks after about 1 hour, until fork tender, about 2½ hours.

5. Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Tilt the braising pot to pool the juices at one end and skim off the surface fat. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the rosemary and orange zest, and pressing down on the garlic cloves, forcing the pulp through. Taste for salt. To serve, spoon the sauce over the shanks and top with the chopped parsley.

Cook’s Notes:

• Lamb shanks are excellent made a day or two ahead. When finished, don’t bother skimming the fat. Instead, strain the braising liquid, pressing down to extract the garlic pulp, and pour a little over the shanks to moisten the meat. Refrigerate the shanks and remaining strained braising liquid separately, both tightly covered. Before serving, arrange the shanks in a baking dish. Scrape the solid fat from the top of the chilled liquid, spoon what remains over the shanks, cover with foil and warm in a 325°F oven for about 30 minutes. Top with parsley before serving. n

• The recipe can easily be adapted to serve 6; simply add 2 more lamb shanks. The rest of the ingredients remain the same. n

• Smaller appetites may not finish an entire shank. Combine any leftover meat and braising liquid to use it as a pasta sauce in coming days. If there’s not enough liquid, add canned tomatoes to keep it moist, and toss in a handful of chopped olives or capers to perk it up.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (8 KEBABS)

A simple marinade tenderizes the meat and adds loads of flavor to these colorful kebabs. Cook over the grill or under the broiler, weather depending. A drizzle of melted butter before serving brings the taste to the next level. Serve with a grain salad or couscous.

1½ pounds boneless lamb, from leg, sirloin or shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1- to 1½-inch cubes

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to drizzle

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¾ teaspoon fine salt (or 1 teaspoon kosher salt), plus more to taste

Pinch red pepper flakes

2 large bell peppers, cored and cut into 1-inch squares (see Cook’s Notes)

1½ tablespoons melted butter (or olive oil), for serving

1 teaspoon sumac or lemon pepper (optional), for serving

Flaky salt for serving (optional)

1. Place the lamb in a large bowl. In a smaller bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, coriander, cumin, salt and red pepper flakes. Pour the marinade over the meat, toss to coat, and cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours.

2. Heat the grill to medium-hot or preheat the broiler with a rack about 4 inches from the element. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature while the grill (or broiler) heats.

3. Thread the lamb and peppers onto skewers, alternating meat and peppers. Drizzle each kebab with a thin thread of olive oil and season lightly with salt.

4. Grill or broil, turning a few times, until the meat is cooked to your liking, 8 to 12 minutes. Drizzle with butter, and, if using, season with sumac and flaky salt. Serve immediately.

Cook’s Notes:

• Try a mix of red and green (or yellow) bell peppers to add color. n If using bamboo skewers, soak the skewers in water for 20 minutes before assembling kebabs to prevent them from catching fire. n

• A trick for making equal size kebabs is to divide the meat and vegetable into 8 even piles before assembling. This way you won’t overload the first few skewers and run out before you’re done.

nutrition (per serving)

MUSTARD-CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB

CALORIES: 450, FAT: 26G (SAT: 9 G), CHOLESTEROL: 115 MG, SODIUM: 450 MG, CARB: 15G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 39G

LAMB AND CARAMELIZED ONION PITAS WITH TAHINI-YOGURT SAUCE

CALORIES: 610, FAT: 46G (SAT: 16 G), CHOLESTEROL: 90 MG, SODIUM: 240 MG, CARB: 21G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 27G

LAMB CHOPS WITH ZHOUG-BROWN BUTTER SAUCE

CALORIES: 480, FAT: 43G (SAT: 20 G), CHOLESTEROL: 130 MG, SODIUM: 380 MG, CARB: 1G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 24G

LAMB SHANKS BRAISED WITH GARLIC AND WHITE WINE

CALORIES: 560, FAT: 22G (SAT: 6 G), CHOLESTEROL: 220 MG, SODIUM: 780 MG, CARB: 8G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 71G

LAMB AND BELL PEPPER KEBABS

(PER 2 KEBABS) CALORIES: 320, FAT: 17G (SAT: 6 G), CHOLESTEROL: 135 MG, SODIUM: 810 MG, CARB: 3G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 39G