LUNA LIU PUBLIC RELATIONS
Friday, September 9, 2016
Table of Contents
Lead Article.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................4 Focus of the Day.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................5 Frame...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................6 Maiyet .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................7 Hellessy............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................8
Monday, September 12, 2016
Lead Article...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................10 Focus of the Day...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................11 Diane von Furstenberg................................................................................................................................................................................................................12 Tome..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................13 Monse............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................14
Tuesday, September 13, 2016 Lead Article...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................16 Focus of the Day...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................17 Altuzarra.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................18 Carolina Herrera..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................19 Oscar de la Renta.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................20
Wednesday, September 14, 2016
Lead Article...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................22 Focus of the Day............................................................................................................................................................................................................................23 Gabriela Hearst.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................24 Rag& Bone.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................25 DKNY.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................26
Thursday, September 15, 2016
Trends
Lead Article...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................28 Focus of the Day............................................................................................................................................................................................................................29 Naeem Khan..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................30 Narcisco Rodriguez......................................................................................................................................................................................................................31 Brandon Maxwell..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................32
The Silk Road ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................34 The Wall Street Women..........................................................................................................................................................................................................35 Sporty Genius............................................................................................................................................................................................................................36 Metallic Lady.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................37 Striped Fun.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................38
Newsworthy Collection
Tommy Hilfiger.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................40 Tom Ford........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................42 Ralph Lauren.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................44 WWD Editor’s Chart..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................46
Friday, September 9, 2016
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• Denim is driving a lot of the apparel interest right now, because people need shoes, new tops to go with denim trends, and it works with all generations. • Macy’s is really confident about their sales projection based on current selling trends and inventory management, and they made many strategic changes for the future business devlopment. • Macy’s will open their first Apple shop in a U.S. department store at its Herald Square flagship in New York in October, and more than 180 Macy locations and macys.com will carry Apple Watch products.
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Focus of the Day • Beauty
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A 1970s influence ran rampant throughout, most notably in the savvy, sleek suiting and the latest iteration of Frame’s supermodel- beloved jumpsuit. The real message was one of a brand that’s both on a roll and continually evolving: Grede and Torstensson have already begun to test the waters with accessories, starting with a small selection of rope belts, and straw totes.
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The collection was inspired by certain effortlesssly chic Sixties and Seventies aesthetics. The denim- focused part of the lineup included a range of jeans cut with various fits, from boyfriend to skinny, and worked in different colors, from light indigo to gray and washed red. The more urban looks were crafted from an array of high- end materials.
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Developing from a brand that does denim professionally, the styles Frame delivers in this collection tells all the story because everything is so simple, eternal and accessible to wear with different looks. White stripe sweater adds some young and fresh sauce for the formal look, and it shows different personalities when the girl wears stripes with denim. The denim is designed for different fits with denim cut which shows the brand’s denim specialty very well.
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Maiyet is a company on a noble, global mission; to celebrate and support and ultimately enlist artisans from around the globe. As for the clothes themselves, the silhouette was long and lean and layered, what Coiffier called “grounded,” with a linear design that seemed inspired by the whorl of fingerprint. Dressing is a sensual objective, Coiffier said- it has much to do with how we feel, what we reach out and touch in the morning.
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Maiyet continues to collaborate with artisans around the world. The label had Indian women based in Varanasi craft a textured silk fabric, done in a bright pink tone, which was used for a wrap mini skirt and a feminine slipdress trimmed in red. A sense of lightness infused most of the pieces, such as a fluid robe dress embellished with piping and layered over a silk fil coupe camisole and oversize pants, which contrasted with the thickness of pretty cotton sweaters hand knitted in Bolivia.
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As a company that collaborates with global artisans, their embroidery comes from Mumbai, and the work of weavers comes from Bolivia, which builds a strong sustainable engagement in fashion industry. The palette for this collection is very neutral, which builds a very soft transtion for the designs. The materials they use really represents the attribute that they collaborate with global artisans, and it’s beneficial for protecting and developing crafting techniques.
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For Spring, Sylvie Millstein’s Hellessy woman wants a wardrobe “fresh”. Her stylistic reset is about opening up- and anchoring that revelatory statement with an off- the- shoulder “Bessette collar” shirt, which appeared in multiple iterations on her first- ever runway today. Millstein should use caution, however, with certain fabrications.
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Statement tops have become the driving force behind Sylvie Millstein’s Hellessy collection. A wardrobe needs so many statement tops, and Millstein offered her customer plenty of other appealing updates that should look new to the eye, using strong colors and silhouettes that combined classic French insouciance with exotic flair. An eye- pppping red silk shantung T-shirt dress with a wide, ruffled hem was bold but relaxed.
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The collection is very diverse through using different materials construct all those looks which include silk, viscose, knit, leather, etc. Otherwise, one thing that makes it very amazing is no matter how different the materials they use for specfic looks, they all look very comfortable and feminine. The color of the red silk they use looks very pure and it highlights the dress so well, otherwise, the construction and sihouette cannot show model’s body shape very well.
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Monday, September 12, 2016
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• The designer’s #TommyNow fashion show and carnival at the South Street Seaport over the weekend racked up significant retail sales of the fall 2016 Tommy x Gigi collection and Tommy’s women’s line, according to Hilfiger executives. • The show also served as a major marketing event, not only providing endless social media posts, but also bringing adults and children to Pier 16 on Saturday to enjoy the carnival. • While Hilfiger executives declined to give exact sales figures, they said a double- digit number of styles sold out online within hours after the show. More than 80,000 Tommy x Gigi product views took place on tommy.com, and sales on the site on Sept. 9 were about 220 percent ahead of a year ago.
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Focus of the Day • Accessories • Innerwear • Legwear
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The dress’s asymmetry evokes the ease of Von Fustenberg’s original, iconic 1974 wrap dress, but in a more contemporary way. Saunders used asymmetry throughout the collection: by cutting other frocks and shirts with a fluttery sleeve on one side and a delicate strap on the other. Saunders said he expects knits to become a more important part of the business.
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Saunders made a conscious effort to expand on separates, cutting sturdy cottons with geometric waist flaps edged in striped grosgrain for constructivist bravado. The whole thing felt intelligent- right for the DVF customers yet with moments of discreet surprise and challenge. While one collection hardly ensures a successful succession, in his first effort Saunders must have DVF feeling like the employer she wants to be- completely confident in her choice of designated creative heir.
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Jonathan Saunders made prints a centerpiece of his collection, and he put all that into play in the new lineup. Instead of focusing on the famous wrap dress, Saunders extended his strength in using prints to play with more diverse categories, like dress, pants, jumpsuits, which bring the brand more possibilities and fun. The designer has an exceptional eye for colors, which brings us a lot of fun.
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It’s been five years for Tome, a milestone for any brand, and there was a real sense of joy that rang through the clothes. The boasted geometric prints inspired by Bridget Riley’s artwork alongside frills and frippery at the shoulders, cuffs, and hems, seemingly all just for the fun of it Inspiration for this collection came, as it always does for the duo, from the relationship between women and art.
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Tome turned out to a fun, whimsical spring collection that, according to Lobo, was “about feeling good and empowering women.” The runway is filled with a range of models- multiethnic, transgender, curvy, mature- all of who looked terrific and confident. Among many strong looks, freshest were the long prairie skirts paired with ruffled tops, voluminous off- the- shoulder tops stitched at the waist, corsets and tribal embroidered dresses.
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This collection brings us a lot of fun because the designers are so brave to using their techniques for draping fabrics. Diverse patterns and prints are used in this collection, and they don’t look too exaggerated, because the way they look just so proper, with their own stories. The off shoulder stripe top shows the model’s body shape very well and the details bring more fun for the upper body, when it wears with a long, soft fabric dress, the whole look is very vivid and energetic.
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In their first three seasons, they’ve experimented with simple shirting, high-concept gowns, and unusual fabrications, but Spring ’17 was Monse at its most quintessential. Sequins were the biggest news here, best seen on a few chiffon skirts and tunics that riffed on classic shirting stripes and were dripping with shine. The exaggerated cargo pants have become an unexpected hit for Monse.
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Designers ran with customers’ feedback for the show, escalating their reworked men’s shirt and trench premise with a wayward Wall Streeter vibe. Evening wear is an interesting category right now, with the conceptions of cocktail and black tie being redefined on a wide spectrum. A tulle bodysuit dipped in black sequins worn with a folded silk scarf skirt was a modern take on traditional razzle- dazzle.
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Even the brand is young, but the designer already have so many years experience in fashion industry, which makes their collection confident enough to be different and popular. Through adding different types of embellishment, the simple shirting looks not simple at all, and it adds a lot of fun to show the girls’ personalities when they wear Monse. Embroidery here is very natural and neutral on their ready to wear, but not plain.
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Tuesday, September 13, 2016
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• Lauren has invited retailers, press and top customers to two separate runway shows — 200 people at each — that will take place Wednesday at 7 p.m. and 8:30 p.m; The company worked with Mayor Bill de Blasio’s office to get a permit to close down the street. The entire block will be roped off to traffic and guests will be seated outside and are invited to come into the store afterwards to make purchases. • The designer joins a growing list of companies that have shown, or will show, see-now-buynow collections this season, including Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff, Alice + Olivia, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony and, next week in London, Burberry. • Lauren’s shift to see now-buy now comes at a critical time for the $7.3 billion company, which is undergoing a radical transformation.
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Focus of the Day • Ready to Wear • Textiles
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A film lover, Altuzarra looked at the David Lynch movie Wild at Heart to get him started. The python print was lifted from a jacket sported by Nicolas Cage’s ex-con. Laura Dern’s Lula wore the precise shade of hot pink that Altuzarra used for a twin set belted over a pair of striped briefs. Rounding out the collection was a good helping of gingham tailoring in a smaller check than the popular gingham from Altuzarra’s Spring collection of two years ago.
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Altuzarra was drawn to the “crazy, fun, weird atmosphere” of Lynch’s “Wild at Heart,” but not its dark side. Altuzarra crossed Laura’s Dern’s Lula with a touch of Carmen Miranda: color! midriffs! ruffles! There were even lemons and cherries galore, though not on fruit-bearin headgear, but in prints and embroideries on the clothes, bags and shoes. Altuzarra worked in fresh takes on the core of staples he established early in his career.
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This collection looks very different from the collections that Altuzarra did before, because this collection shows a lot of fun, the colors, patterns, fabric, etc. Diverse prints and colors make this collection very fresh, girls are very energetic from this collection. The silhouette of the skirt really shows the feminity of a women, and it adds more fun with wearing the fresh blue top.
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The designer took cues and highlights from her experience and refreshed them for “the women of today.” The designer revealed a series of fantastic striped black-and-white gowns that crackled with nighttime sophistication—even though it was only 10:00 a.m. As rooted as the show was in the past, it still felt very current.
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For this collection, Herrera wanted to look back, specifically to her first collection, and draw from it. In recent seasons, Herrera’s aesthetic has evolved toward simplicity. For spring, the designer kept a minimal palette- black and white, blue (as in denim), khaki and a hint of pink here or there in a lustrous brocade.
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The show is opening with a denim gown, which is stunning , and it shows the designer’s tideas to start something new, but keep it’s classic. White shirt is supposed to represent a professional office lady, otherwise, it makes the whole look sexier when it wears with a black dress. Black and white is always a classical combination, but this collection plays these two colors with different clothing categories which brings us a lot of fun.
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There’s no substitute for a distinct point of view, but the design team has a fine handle on the house Oscar-isms. They touched on many of them here: the knit skirt suit, the safari jacket, the peasant dress. Not everything had the refinement of fit that we expect from this label; the safari shorts set comes to mind, as does the off-the-shoulder closing number in pintucked pink silk taffeta.
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It was no secret that the Oscar de la Renta spring collection was an interim, design team effort in between former creative director Peter Copping’s efforts and those of incoming Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. A series of white, long- sleeved peasant- ish looks- an organza fil coupe blouse and long matching skirt opened the show, which coursed through one crowd- pleasing silhouette after another. All the boxes were checked as far as familiar shapes and standard house fabrications, and now there’s a collection to
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LUNA LIU
Embroidery is aways the center of Oscar de la Renta’s collection, the gowns are complicated and beautiful. The brand has specific standard for their designs, which really brings us some detailed and wearable ready to wear pieces. The white chiffon dress is so cute and the sihouette is strong enough to support the whole look to be classical and fresh.
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Wednesday, September 14, 2016
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• A year- long study found that Pins that show “real- life” iterations of products lead to higher click rates and higher checkout rates. • Fashion brands are particularly suited to connect with customers on the image search platform, as compared to the general public. • Pinners are two items more likely to follow fashion trends and 53% use Pinterest to decide what apparel and accessories to buy; for retailers that have a variety of Pin types, Brown said, they should consider this criteria when considering which ones to promote.
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Focus of the Day • Sportswear • Denim
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The designer is certainly got a firmer handle on her signatures than peers who’ve been around as long. The most unique of those signatures is the way she plays up her Uruguayan roots via outdoorsy pieces like this season’s reversible puffer—soft faded denim on one side, and a washed striped silk on the other. Tailoring and knits are two important categories for the brand.
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A focus on sensuality and the body opened up Hearst’s range for spring with a few shocks of color, bare silhouettes and increased construction. She broke away from the classic palette she’s drawn to with deep red and cobalt deployed on sexy, sporty looks. The collection had plenty of luxurious staples — shirts, Henleys, knit dresses and an olive twill trench to keep forever.
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Cotton gowns really make the clothing to be wearble and sensual. Details change on the whole piece cut fabric really satisfy customers who want to be simple and stylish at the same time. No matter how categories change in this collection, the whole feeling is gentle and sensual, which make me feel the trench coat, dress can be wore forever.
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With the departure of David Neville from the brand, Rag & Bone was given the opportunity for a bit of reset. This was something of a stock-taking collection, leaning extra-hard on Rag & Bone signatures such as motocross-inspired looks, English public-school-boy aesthetics, and ’90s-vintage nonchalance. If the collection as a whole had a posture, it was the slouch, evidenced in the baggy, tapered jeans, the careworn cricket sweaters, the oversize sweats with 8-ball insignia.
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Wainwright’s girls were sporty, effortless tomboys who wore oversize, pinstriped shirtdresses and slouchy V-neck collegiate sweaters with utilitarian cargo corduroys and cotton twill chinos. The pops of color were on-trend for the season, as were the updated leathers and flowing anoraks with cargo pockets. The brand managed to stay close to its core consumer and create a great wardrobe for the globe-trotting guy
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Sporty, cool girls are all over in this collection, everything looks so comfortable and special. The V-neck sweater is an eye-catching piece because it looks very comfortable, and it really shows what a girl looks like when she tries to be cool at the same time. The collection looks like it’s been designed for all weather, and some of the pieces look there is no clear boundary of which season they belong to.
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The collection Osborne and Chow showed was effectively completed before the sale was announced, but by coincidence, its futuristic theme was fitting, given that the DKNY future is now unwritten. The fact that the design duo’s take on futurism had a, let’s say, dystopian mien was not, they made clear, anything to be read deeply into. This DKNY show hinted at an aesthetics of collectivity, and its potential made you sit up a little straighter in your seat and pay attention.
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Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbornesaid in their DKNY show notes that with their spring collection they tried to define the New York style of the future by discovering “new meaning in the codes of DKNY, in which the aspirational meets the practical.” Chow and Osborne surely managed to express their love for streetwear in the lineup, but it seemed they were missing a certain women’s sensibility. there were some fun, interesting pieces in the collection, including baggy beige overalls unconventionally worn with a blazer in the same tone,
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This collection looks very futuristic and comfortable, all the clothing looks easy to wear and style. The transparent active wear element looks very cool, but I don’t know if it’s practical to wear on the street or use to wear for working out. Overall, the collection is still very New York inspired, but with a broader perspective that people can wear in more occasions, and cover more diverse consumer types.
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Thursday, September 15, 2016
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• Evine Live Inc., a multiplatform video e-commerce company, has landed several high-profile investors; the company has forged a definitive agreement to sell $10 million of common stock at $1.68 per share, to investors that include Tommy Hilfiger, Morris Goldfarb and Tommy Mottola. • Bob Rosenblatt, chief executive officer of Evine, said, “It is exciting to have these leading industry icons and executives invest in our company as we seek to build transformative alliances in this ever-evolving video commerce marketplace. This investment will help us accelerate our brand-building opportunities as well as strengthen our balance sheet.” • Mottola said he’s known about this channel for years, and all of a sudden, it all came together “because collectively, Tommy, Morris and I decided we really want to do it.
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Focus of the Day • Men’s
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The one-shouldered gown with billowing cape was particularly successful. The monochromatic parachute dress felt like a slight reach for the brand. Many of these looks came in a refreshing palette of red, blue, black, and white—a color combination that appeared intermittently throughout the collection, including on a handful of crochet gowns and a joyful, voluminous ball gown.
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Before showtime, Naeem Khan said hewas returning to his roots with “simpler,cleaner silhouettes” inspired by Halston Khan’s intention to tone the collectio down a bit was hard to reconcile, given the sheer number of scallop-fringedresses, trains, ballgowns and matchingcapes on his runway. The newest — and in Khan’s citeddirection — were the below-the-knee color-blocked jersey dresses in red, white and black.
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Naeem Khan uses a lot of embellishment and embroidery which playing with various combinations, but each one looks so specific and special. The yellow 3D flowers gown is very cute and fresh, it’s been constructed very proper, and it looks not too heavy to wear. The whole collection works for all different occations, but I also want to see more pieces that can really be wearable daily.
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Narciso Rodriguez’s show is a balm for those abuses: intimate and serene, and smaller than usual this season. Rodriguez sliced the guest list and rearranged seats, so the models were closer than usual, the better to zero in on what Rodriguez specializes in: bias draping, architectural seaming, and, this season, some unexpected embroideries. Rodriguez leaned too heavily on orange, which can be a challenging shade to wear.
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The lineup was a beautiful, powerful display of doing the most with the least, meaning only the finest essentials— no BS. A navy trench witha white strip down the opening over a silver-coated silk satin tank dress made the notion of wearing a metallic dress to the office seem like a great, easy idea. Heels might have added height, but the dresses didn’t need any elevation.
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The palette is very dark and cold, but the value of the fabric makes the clothing wearable and comfortable. The whole collection looks so easy and complicated, the easy is because the print is easy, the complicated is it can be wore in different occasions . The silk dress shows model’s body very well, even it has metallic details, but it can be wore with different looks.
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Brandon Maxwell brought down the house with exactly that scene at his Spring catwalk con cocktail tonight at New York’s famed Russian Tea Room. Maxwell admitted to wanting “to make a bit more of a wearable collection,” and that this one in particular was inspired by “learning a lot of different types of love this year.” In the past Maxwell’s gowns and separates have been relatively covered-up and statement-making, tonight he offered more sexiness, more sharp silhouettes, and more general variation than before
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Maxwell’s realm is cocktail/evening, although there were a few things that could skew day, such as a green shift with piped shoulders. In such a grand, Old World setting it was impossible not to project a heady, throwback swagger onto the collection. Maxwell’s magic is his handling of his nostalgic, party-of-a-lifetime fantasy wardrobe of swinging bell-bottom pants, bustled tops and dresses with capes and trains, with chic, spare cuts and controlled colors — white, black and, here, getting wild with a muted green.
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The fabric of the blazer and pants look soft and hard, because it shows layers of the fabric, but it also shows the silhouette for the clothes and model. The color is very pure which make the clothing which shows the high quality of the fabric and techniques. The designer is trying to make the clothing easy enough to be wearable daily, and I think it’s very successful, because the ease of the look can really prove it.
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Trends
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The Silk Road
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The Wall Street Women
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Sporty Genius
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Metallic Lady
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Striped Fun
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Newsworthy Collection
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• A very fresh collaboration between Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi. • Tommy Pier, which is the fashion show location brings a lot of topics, and people in all generations can get involved. • The design and clothing category satisfy most of people’s taste, and people can buy the products right away after the fashion show.
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• The special seeting brings attention which is a dinner party at the Four Seasons in New York’s Seagram building. • Influential celebrities include Julianne Moore, Tom Hanks, Rita Ora and Iman attended. • The collection is in see- now, and buy- now seeting.
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Tom Ford
See Now, Buy Now NEW YORK, NY- September 1, 2016 – Tom Ford will return to the fashion calendar with a cocktail and multi- course dinner party to debut the women’s and men’s fall 2016 collections in Four Seasons ‘s iconic Seagram Building on September 7, 2016. For the new collection, Tom Ford will stage a dazzling display of confidence, skill and impressive clothes. The clothes will be available immediately after the show on tomford.com and other sites, and are in store at Tom Ford and Bergdorf Goodman. “Feel now, see now, then buy now” is what Mr. Ford seemed to have in mind as the correct course moving forward. Ford is indeed the first major American designer to embrace an in-season model. Julianne Moore, Rita Ora, Tom Hanks, Uma Thurman, Alicia Keys, Jon Hamm, Zayn Malik, Baz Luhrmann, Carmelo Anthony, Anna Wintour and Barry Diller will attend the dinner, and that’s just the starters. Press Contact: Luna Liu Tom Ford 646.628.6266 Office 646.628.1056 Cell press@tomford.com www.tomford.com
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
• Lauren showed his second full collection for fall, it took deep pockets to do a full-on Take Two on a season. • The collection is available immediately online and beginning on Thursday at five flagship stores around the world. • The show closed down four lanes of an entire block of Madison Avenue for four days, and the brand commissioned a glass extension from the building’s facade out toward the street. 44
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Ralph Lauren
See Now, Buy Now NEW YORK, NY – September 1, 2016– Ralph Lauren Corporation will organize a modern and exciting runway- to- retail concept at New York Fashion Week on Wednesday evening, September 14, to celebrate the Ralph Lauren Women’s September Collection outside the 888 Ralph Lauren Collection flagship store. It will be an exciting collection that captures the romance and elegance for Ralph Lauren women. The new clothes will feed into themes that have been reverberating at the core of the brand since Lauren launched it almost five decades ago. This will be the brand’s first foray into see-now-buy-now territory. It shows Ralph Lauren’s commitment to his consumer, allowing her to wear what she falls in love with the moment she sees it. Known as a leader in world- class retailing, the company is creating for the customer a fully immersive showcase, following models directly from the runway into the store. The sidewalk will be streamed live on global social media platforms Facebook, Youku, Line and Kakao, presenting the collection, including accessories, in its entirely to be seen around the world. Items will be available as the fashion show concludes on RalphLauren.com and in worldwide flagship stores including Beverly Hills, Chicago, Boston, Dallas, Bal Harbour and Costa Mesa, Calif., in the United States;; Prince’s Building in Hong Kong;; Omotesando in Tokyo;; New Bond Street in London;; Tretyakovsky in Moscow;; and Ralph Lauren’s Paris store at Montaigne. Top retail partners include Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Mytheresa.com and Mercury. Press Contact: Luna Liu Ralph Lauren 646.628.6266 Office 646.628.1056 Cell press@ralphlauren.com www.ralphlauren.com
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
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