LUSH. & CULTURE ZINE | ISSUE 2 by LUSH. & CULTURE ZINE

lush. No.2| May 2020

PANOS ASTOR KOFFAS Panos Astor Koffas, tells us all about portrait photography and what it takes to be a photogrpaher today

STREETS OF TOKYO Reporting from Tokyo. Street Style culture.

RAF SIMONS Raf Simons- From Punk to Couture

lush. Editor-in-chief Iason Raissis

Street Style Editor Runway & International Editor Runway & Archive Editor Publishing Advisor Advertising Executives Style & Make-up Advisor

Athina Krizel Iris Zimble Fivos Dimitrakopoulos Terry Raissis Maria Makrygianni, Theodora Tsantila Sophia Palyvou

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THE MAY SELECTION

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THE MAY SELECTION

Editorial

Cover Story

Street Style

Fashion News

Archive

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Covid-19: The fashion industry barely survives the pandemic The luxury fashion industry has been highly attuned to the spread of coronavirus from the early stages of the pandemic and its tremendous ramifications for the market. Luxury brand owners felt the storm’s first rumblings as Covid-19 spread through China in 2019, the nation whose consumers accounted for 90 per cent of global luxury brand growth. When the virus hit Italy, where several brands are headquartered and have their vital suppliers, they were faced with the additional pressure of working within a national quarantine when and where possible. With key luxury fashion industries now affected across the globe, labels are doing their best to protect the well-being of their workers and consumers, through shop closures and other initiatives. They also assist the forefront response to public health whenever possible, for instance, by agreeing to use their factories to manufacture necessary products such as hand sanitizer or protective clothing. The pandemic poses a significant threat to the industry, beyond the global public health crisis. Gross domestic product, jobs (and thus purchasing power) and global markets are under extreme pressure, leading to a decrease in customer loyalty and purchasing willingness. Therefore, tourist purchases of luxury goods and services will continue to be affected by travel restrictions and a persistent fear of possible contagion on flights and cruise liners. With the pandemic still progressing and the forecasts of a second wave, its full effect on the global economy and especially the luxury fashion industry is difficult to forecast accurately. Its evolution and length would depend on the response of individual governments and populations. Iason Raissis

EDITORIAL

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Editor: Iason Raissis Media: Panos Astor Koffas

Panos Astor Koffas- Faces tell stories I met with Panos on March 12th. The topic of our discussion evolved mainly around the way in which he approaches his work, what he wishes to convey to those who follow him, who he admires and how he learns from the mistakes of others but also from his own. One of the few or the many who in the midst of his career changed his faith by deciding to take up photography. First of all, thank you for agreeing to this interview. I would like to know what it was that prompted you to make a career switch and become a professional photographer. I’m going to begin by telling you that I used to be an engineer and for many years I worked in factories. One year ago, I decided to quit my job because I was feeling exploited; I was working many hours and I could not find reason in it. So, as you said, I quit my job and career and took up photography professionally. Although, in order to answer your question, this happened because I think that there is not an exact time for things in life. If I was 19 years old and I had decided then to study photography it wouldn’t be the same because I hadn’t discovered that part of myself back then. The circumstances and experiences I went through made me fall in love with photography.

COVER STORY

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Do you remember what your first job as a photographer was? Of course! I have a friend who is an actor, Aris Antonopoulos. At the time he was studying drama and at the end of the year they had a series of performances as part of their exams. So, I went to shoot their general rehearsal and to do some portraits they needed after. That was myxtfirst paid job. What is that intrigues you the most in photographing portraits? What really intrigued me about the portraits is that the way you photograph a person is clearly how you see them and not what they really are. And that was the most interesting thing when I had to adjust from shooting my friends to shooting strangers because I only had a few minutes to make them feel comfortable and imagine them in frame… What inspires you? Reading… And I will tell you what I mean by that! Since I didn’t study photography or had anyone to show me basic techniques or give me tips, everything I know I learned it myself. Usually when I have some free time, I will study Leibovitz’s previous work, I’ll see what Koumianos does in Greece or Newton whose work I admire. But I’m not studying the highlights of their careers but their worst times and how they overcame them.

COVER STORY

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What about personal projects? I try as much as I can to do my own projects too. I use them to challenge myself to see what I can accomplish and how far I can get. I really like the whole process and that’s why I constantly pursue it.

COVER STORY

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Recently we saw a groundbreaking project with Mary Synatsaki, you want to tell me how the idea came up and what did you want to achieve? Well, the original idea came to me while I was watching some videos of her on YouTube. As I scrolled down to the comments section, I saw people commenting awful things about her personality, body and more. As time went by and I continued to read this type of comments on her Instagram page and I started to put myself in her position; trying to understand how she felt seeing people hate her so flagrantly. She is my friend, we have previously worked together, and this made me feel very bad, so I decided I wanted to produce a photographic project which would reflect this instance. When I decided on the final concept, I told Mary and she was super positive. So, I started to arrange and construct my final idea. I searched all her videos and videos she appeared on in YouTube and copy-pasted all the comments in one-word document, I placed a projector in front of her with the text showing on her body and we began shooting. I personally enjoyed it a lot and I think it was a truly groundbreaking project with a very important message.

COVER STORY

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What is it like to be a photographer in Greece? In Greece, what matters most is public relations, which I do not like much. I cannot just go out in order to only meet people. The worst part is that photographers are very competitive with each other, and that is a part of the job which bothers me. Although, because I love my job, I try to do my best. I have one rule I follow; I always smile even if my program is full; I smile; and everything goes alright. Before we wrap-up, tell me , would you at some point like to work for a big magazine or VOGUE maybe? If a photographer tells you he does not want to work for VOGUE, he is lying! Plain simple. Of course, I would want. It is a great achievement to get featured in a magazine such as VOGUE. Do you have any aspirations for the future? For the next 5 years, for example No, I have not. And that’s the beauty in this job. If one year ago you told me I was going to do what I’ve been doing recently I’d tell you, “you’re crazy!”. When I quit my job and decided to work as a full-time photographer, during the first month I went to London to make a video clip; so, imagining what is going to happen five years from now is not important to me.

COVER STORY

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Streets of Tokyo|Style and Fashion Japan may be known for its anime/manga culture, but it’s also considered as one of the most fashionable countries. Tokyo is the capital of Japanese street wear fashion. Its street wear culture has evolved a lot since the 60s. The youth had the strong desire to be different and that resulted to the rise of consumerism, which exists till now. During the 90s and 00s, Harajuku rose as the district of fashion and youth culture. Street style brands were influenced by the punk, 90s hip-hop wave and continue to do so, in combination with taking inspiration from the anime/manga culture.

Editor: Athina Krizel Media: Shutterstock.com

From both, Western and Japanese influences, we can see the combination of baggy, layered, monochromatic or colourful clothes that are, most of the times, accessorised with multiple jewellery, chains, bags and other special additions, which complete the whole look. Tokyo is the ideal city for self-expression. Most of the youth dress with flamboyant, eccentric and over-the-top clothing which convey their personal style on a deeper level. Their fashion sense can indicate their ideologies, values and beliefs. “Fashion is a kind of ability” – said Shoichi Aoki, photographer and creator of FRUITS magazine & TUNES magazine, which both focus on the street style of Harajuku, Tokyo

STREET STYLE

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STREET STYLE

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Street fashion in Japan has continually set new trends all around the world and has made an impact both on western and Asian fashion/pop culture. For instance, many western brands have incorporated some characteristics of the Japanese culture on their fashion collections. The flowers, waves or dragons that are usually seen on kimonos and kanji (one of the Japanese writing systems) are now a part of many street wear brands and have been used by high fashion designers (Dior Couture Spring 2007, Tom Brown S/S 2017). This phenomenon was named Japonisme by the French and has continually inspired the youth to include some of its elements on their wardrobe.

"Street fashion in Japan has continually set new trends all around the world" It must also be noted that the street style game has been elevated by the massive phenomenon of anime/cosplay. The number of youngsters incorporating anime on their wardrobe is increasing rapidly and has inspired many young fashion designers/artists to launch their own clothing line (Kaomoji, OMOCAT). The Japanese music duo, Ami and Aya Suzuki showcase an aspect of Japanese street style everywhere they go. During every fashion event they attend to, such as the Paris Fashion Week F/W 2019, they flash us with their matching bright looks.

STREET STYLE

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Paris Fashion Week| Highlights and more

Editor: Iris Zimble Media: dior.com/miumiu.com/givency.com/ viviennewestwood.com/chanel.com

Paris fashion week took place between February 24 and March 4. This was (for autumn winter 2020 ready to wear and womenswear collections). Designers such as Dior, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Maison Margela, Off-White, Balmain, Vivienne Westwood, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen , Chanel, and many more participated in this fashion week. Taking a look at the shows, there seems to be accents coming back from the 70s. I also noticed these shows had the recurring theme of androgyny and feminism. This fashion week is interesting because due to the uncertainty of the outbreak, the trends may actually not follow like we thought. For AW of 2020, shoes will be thigh high boots, combat boots, and pointy shoes. Probably the most iconic combat boots I saw were from Miu Miu, that were above the ankle steel toe with spikes. Dior, Saint Laurent, Westwood, McQueen ,Givenchy, Chanel, Miu Miu, among others all had quite a bit of plaid in their collections. Another fabric trying to make a comeback from the 70s is Vellore that was fairly used in the Balenciaga apocalyptic themed runway, among Dior and Laurent. Transparent fabric also made it back on the runway. These runways had a lot of montages to professional women's work wear, pant suits, skirt suits, and tie blouses seen by Dior, Laurent, and Miu Miu all had these characteristics in their

FASHION NEWS

shows. I also realized there were accents to bright colors and bold patterns. Saint Laurent took a more fetishist theme, using a lot of latex and lingerie as outerwear. But still having professional workwear. Laurent’s look for this season was very Bourgeois look. From their overall color palette of, black and blue, they had bursts of pink, purple, yellows, and red. Many of the models were wearing gloves the reason I’m pointing this out is due to our current pandemic and how this may be the new norm.

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Fitting for this outbreak Balenciaga with their apocalyptic themed runway, but according to the creative director Denma Gvasalia this was a “celebration of fashion”. Gvasalia was inspired by priests coming from his orthodox up bring and football players as he was quoted calling it his “personal fetish”. Balenciaga is known for being androgynous. Characteristics of this show were long dresses, gothic inspired clothing, oversized formal wear, football uniforms and even though it was a relatively dark theme there were pops of vibrant colors and patterns.

Dior runway was the most feminist charged. The runway set up consisted of old Le Monde newspaper on the floor and hanging from the ceiling power feminists slogans such as; “consent”, “when women strike the world stops”, “women rise the uprising”, along with others. The models wear was masculine focusing on jawline, cheekbones and bold eyebrows. Their clothing this season was masculine but at the same time very feminine in the way, of embracing the women’s body with a masculine aspect. Dior’s runway was the most inspired by the 70s plaid fade.

FASHION NEWS

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Chanel has always been a historically feminist brand, since the passing of Karl Lagerfeld last year the new creative director Virginie Viard has taken a less conservative approach to the house and made it more relaxed. This collection of Chanel also had some characteristics coming through from the 70s, such as the bell bottom pants. Both the skirts and pants had the recurring slit on the side or middle, making it easier to move in. Overall, the color palette was muted, the accents of bright colors came through belts and jewelry. Due to the current pandemic, going on these trends may be uncertain. A Lot of the factories and facilities where they produce the clothing have shut down. This crisis will also lead people at home to come up with new trends, making the whole season for this upcoming year very different. Many of these brands have reopened their facilities but to make masks to give back for healthcare workers. Prada, Gucci, Saint Laurent , Balenciaga, Dior, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Zara and H&M are a few brands trying to help during this difficult time.

FASHION NEWS

"Overall, the color palette was muted, the accents of bright colors came through belts and jewelry."

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Editor: Fivos Dimitrakopoulos Media: rafsimons.com/getty.com

Raf Simons- From Punk to Couture Since 1995 Raf Simons has channeled a sense of intellectual counterculture in fashion, influenced by punk sounds and his unique background in industrial design, he has become a contemporary icon of the industry. Through his eponymous label, the Belgian designer, has created some of the most coveted garments in modern fashion. Since 2005, Raf has worked as a creative designer in a number of houses, including a three-anda-half-year long tenure at the helm of Dior. For Raf, his work as a creative director is distinct from his work as a founder and designer for his own brand, something that results in a considerable artistic distinction between these roles. His work manages to balance on the edge of conceptuality and art while also being commercially successful.