Luxe Beat Magazine Special Edition, Put a Pin in it!

SEPTEMBER 2016

CHICKENS AND CHI

TAKE A BITE OUT OF NORTHERN IRELAND i j

1

I

\

ENCHANTING PRAGUE AND BEYOND

BEWITCHING BAJA SPECIAL EDITION

PU] A PIN IN IT! /1

TRAVEL INSPIRED BY DEBBIE STONE

TABLE OF

Features 10

22

26

34

2

PUT A PIN IN IT! Savor Northern Ireland One Bite at A Time PUT A PIN IN IT! Searching for Mrs. Conda First Name Ana PUT A PIN IN IT! The Indefinable Magic that is Cuba PUT A PIN IN IT! The Three R’s of Kaua’i Rebalance Replenish and Revive

42

48

56

62

70

Contents

PUT A PIN IN IT! Cloudcroft, NM – 9,000 Feet Above Stress Level PUT A PIN IN IT! Experience the WOW Factor of Sweetwater County Wyoming PUT A PIN IN IT! A Stay at Miraval The Ultimate Gift to Yourself

84

92

PUT A PIN IN IT! Stroll Sip and Savor the Delights

98

PUT A PIN IN IT! Bewitching Baja

106

PUT A PIN IN IT! Experience La Dolce Vita at the Pace of a Paddle Stroke

PUT A PIN IN IT! Chickens and Chi PUT A PIN IN IT! Big Ben Beckons

PUT A PIN IN IT! Charleston Woos Visitors with Sultry Southern Charms

114

PUT A PIN IN IT! Star-Studded Swiss

Cities of Lausanne and Montreux 122

PUT A PIN IN IT! Enchanting Prague and Beyond

136

PUT A PIN IN IT! Let Yourself Be Wooed By India

142

PUT A PIN IN IT! Antarctica Beyond Expectations

Interview 150

CONTRIBUTOR Debbie Stone

SHERRIE WILKOLASKI Publisher and Editor-in-Chief MARALYN D. HILL Executive Editor LILLIAN AFRICANO Managing Editor GRAPHIC DESIGN Benjamin Bennett Ginger Odum NINA AFRICANO Editor LEAH WALKER Editor-at-Large SUSAN LANIER-GRAHAM Wine Editor DALE SANDERS Senior Travel & Lifestyle Editor/ Director of Photography

COLUMNS Put a Pin in it!, Debbie Stone

Luxe Beat Magazine is published in English. Our audience is a global market with global contributors. Each writes, using the form of English with which they are familiar. So you’ll see US, UK, AUS, CAN, versions, etc.

We hope this eliminates any confusion on spelling.

3

DELICIOUS BY DESIGN.

Stone Fruit Skillet Pie with Basil Blossoms

by Eva Kosmas Flores.

FINEXUSA.COM

Editor’s Letter IN THIS SPECIAL EDITION of

Luxe Beat Magazine, we’re featuring Luxe Beat columnist Debbie Stone.

Her monthly column Put a Pin in It! is one of our most popular. Debbie travels the world and shares her adventures and discoveries with our readers in a style that makes you feel like you’re almost there.

We’re featuring some of her most popular articles; A Stay at Miraval: The Ultimate Gift to Yourself, Starstudded Swiss Cities of Lausanne and Montreux, and Antarctica: Beyond Expectations.

Ms. Stone has kept her suitcase packed, traveling from one continent to the next. She’s taken a bite out of Ireland, been bewitched in Bajaand, enchanted by Prague. This issue will take you around the world in just one afternoon.

Put your pin in it and enjoy!

SHERRIE WILKOLASKI Editor-in-Chief P.S. To learn more about what makes travel columnist Debbie Stone such a world wanderer, check out Lillian Africano’s interview with Debbie in the back of this issue.

5

In this issue of Luxe Beat Magazine, we’re featuring columnist, Debbie Stone and in this special edition, Debbie is answering questions from our readers directly.

Debbie’s Future Travel Excursions: Yellowstone National Park Upstate New York Newfoundland Hells Canyon Northern Spain Portugal

Letters TO THE Editor As someone who has traveled in a variety of ways, what is your favorite method and why? (plane, train, camel, donkey...)

It depends on the location: If I am anywhere near water, I enjoy exploring the area on a kayak as I can go at my own pace and get into areas that are maybe hard to navigate using other forms of transportation.

I also love the physical activity involved in powering a small boat on my own, as well as the perspective I get from being in the water. If I am in the mountains, then I want to hike as my means of travel as it gives me the opportunity to stop and “smell the roses” whenever I choose. And if I am in small towns and villages, I like to hop on a bike and ride around the area in a leisurely manner, stopping along the way to check out the sights. I find that when I use these forms of travel, I have much freedom and can get off the beaten path to discover hidden gems.

After reading your “Stroll, Sip and Savor the Delights of Storied Carmel-by-the-Sea”, I’m inspired to visit this little town! If I only had time for one meal and one activity, where do you think I should go?

I would definitely do a Carmel Food Tour as it is a most enjoyable way to see the town while sampling some of its delicious culinary offerings.

As for restaurants, Casanova’s gets my vote for authentic Italian with a French twist.

Ireland is known worldwide for its beer, the Guinness in particular. What would you recommend for a beverage while in Ireland to someone who just doesn’t like beer?

You’ve been to so many different places; how do you find the motivation to keep exploring and traveling without becoming exhausted or overwhelmed? Or does the discovery of a new place simply whet your appetite for more adventure?

It is a fact that traveling can get physically tiring and overwhelming even for the most seasoned traveler—the key is to pace yourself and not go crazy trying to see it all even though you will probably feel compelled to do so. Quality over quantity! But for me, traveling is a wondrous pursuit and always an adventure that makes me feel alive in so many ways. It stimulates me on every level and keeps me wanting more.

Bailey’s Irish Cream—on the rocks, with coffee or hot cocoa, or over ice cream.

What is one thing you never travel without?

My camera. It is my second pair of eyes.

7

ThinkAsperger’s ... ... if your student or child: Ŕ 4FFNT TPDJBMMZ BXLXBSE PS JOBQQSPQSJBUF Ŕ )BT JOUFOTF JOUFSFTUT UIBU BSF BMM DPOTVNJOH Ŕ "WPJET HSPVQ QMBZ PS PGUFO QMBZT BMPOF Ŕ )BT USPVCMF USBOTJUJPOJOH GSPN POF BDUJWJUZ UP BOPUIFS

4UVEFOUT XJUI TPDJBM JNQBJSNFOUT BSF BU SJTL GPS CVMMZJOH BOE PUIFS FNPUJPOBM QSPCMFNT dž*G ZPVS DIJME IBT EJťDVMUJFT NBLJOH PS LFFQJOH GSJFOET see XXX UIJOLBTQFSHFST PSH for the %"7& 4DSFFOJOH 2VFTUJPOOBJSF UIFO DPOUBDU 4"33$ GPS XIBU UP EP OFYU

® www.autismcenter.org (602)340-8717

Put A Pin In It!

Savor Northern Ireland One Bite At A Time

By Debbie Stone

12

Features

T

o be honest, I didn’t have high hopes for good food during my stay in Northern Ireland. My expectations were low based on a trip I had made to the Republic of Ireland many years ago. I recalled eating lots of potatoes, breads and bland stews, along with the proverbial Guinness to wash it all down.

And though 2016 has been designated The Year of Food and Drink for Northern Ireland, I was frankly still leery about the culinary scene. Imagine my surprise then to discover a country that has become a great destination for foodies: a place that crafts, grows, breeds, catches, cooks and enjoys the finest, freshest food available.

“Local” has become the buzzword, with themes from ‘plot to plate’ and ‘grown here not flown here’ celebrated. The excitement is palpable among everyone from producers and artisans to chefs and consumers.

In Belfast, Northern Ireland’s capital city, check out St George’s Market, an historic landmark that is the site of a lively and colorful market selling the very best of local farm produce, dairy, seafood, baked goods and more. Then dive into the town’s vibrant restaurant scene, offering everything from fine dining

establishments boasting globallyinfused cuisine to ethnic eateries and classic Irish joints specializing in traditional Ulster fry breakfasts.

The café culture is also alive and well in Belfast, with local artisan roasters, independent coffee shops and top-class baristas that ensure you’ll always be able to get a great handcrafted coffee or a boutique loose leaf blended tea. And when it comes to enjoying libations of an alcoholic nature, the country’s pubs are hard to beat. Walk into any Irish pub and immediately you’ll feel at home. The convivial atmosphere combined with the often energetic, live music will have you doing the Irish two-step with a host of new friends before you know it.

Ox is one of two establishments in the city that recently received the coveted Michelin Star designation.

Dinner at this restaurant is a sensory experience that defies description. Chef owner Stephen Toman is a magician in the kitchen, who uses imagination and creativity to bring fresh ingredients to life on your plate. Due to the close relationships he has with local suppliers, menus are designed around the finest seasonal produce.

The best approach is to opt for the tasting menu so you can sample a variety of dishes--and make sure to add the paired wines to enhance

13

your meal. When I finished my last bite of dessert, a heavenly concoction of Jerusalem artichoke, banana, caramel and pistachio, I literally swooned in a food-driven ecstasy.

to grow oysters and mussels. After seeing Patrice’s farm, out tour group sampled his fleshy, meaty oysters with shallots and lemon, accompanied by a glass of crisp white wine.

The Mitre is another top-rated restaurant in Belfast. Tucked inside Culloden Estate & Spa, one of the country’s most prestigious hotels, you’ll find this gem of an establishment. Surrounded by beautiful secluded gardens and woodland, with a killer coastal view, the Culloden is as beautiful on the outside as it is inside. Originally built as an official palace for the Bishops of Down, the place has an air of elegance, with fine antiques that evoke a Gothic grandeur. Let the talented Chef Brian Donaldson introduce you to his gourmet chic culinary scene via a seven-course tasting menu that emphasizes carefully selected local and seasonal quality foods. His focus is on infusing Irish staples with French and Scandinavian influences.

Everything is presented with an eye towards aesthetics, such as a palate cleanser of elderflower sorbet with candied beetroot spectacularly arranged within a toppled wine glass.

The tour ended in the sleepy hamlet of Chapeltown at Curran’s Bar & Seafood Steakhouse, one of the oldest pubs in the area. A welcoming fire and jovial wait staff greeted our group, and we proceeded to chow down on hearty Irish stew and champ, a typical Irish mashed potato dish, while listening to several local musicians make merry for St. Pat’s Day. Often voted “Pub of the Year,” Curran’s is a magnet for locals and tourists alike, who enjoy the live entertainment, good food, drink and great craic, or conversation.

For an authentic food journey, sign on for an NI Food Tour with owner and guide Tracey Jeffrey. She’ll take you around County Down, an area with the highest concentration of award-winning producers and restaurants in the country. The region has become a must-visit destination for foodies and for those who just love good food. On your tour, you’ll hear stories from local farmers and other producers while tasting their products, such as craft beers, local breads, scones, meats, potatoes, cheeses, butter, shellfish, chocolates and more.

At Rowallane Garden, for example, where they sell food made on site using products grown on the property, you can watch a demonstration of how to make Irish soda bread, a staple that goes back centuries. I discovered that the key to knowing when the loaf is cooked in the middle is if it sounds hollow when you tap it. For other Irish local specialties, you might stop in the picturesque village of Strangford, at the Cuan, for its renowned seafood chowder, made of fresh haddock, cod, mussels and prawns.

A highlight of the tour is meeting Patrice Bonnargent, an oyster and mussel farmer in Killough who came from France to play rugby years ago, and ended up staying in Ireland

14

You’ll find that food also takes center stage in Derry, home of the LegenDerry Food Fair, an annual event held in March. It’s a two-day festival showcasing the wealth and range of local food in Northern Ireland, and a celebration of everything that makes produce from this place so delicious, from Abernethy butter and Braemar Farm ice cream to Broighter Gold rapeseed oil and Kennedy Bacon.

Dozens of restaurants showcase some of their signature dishes and noted Derry chefs perform cooking demonstrations during the fair.

To help orient you to the food scene around town, take a bike tour with Far and Wild. Go on an empty stomach, as you’ll be plied with such specialties as homemade sausage rolls and traditional Irish scones at Cherry Blossom Bakery, Leek and Cream Cappuccino at the Legenderry Warehouse Café and a variety of Pintxos or tapas at the newly opened Walled City Brewery, which also brews its own craft beers with quirky names like Kicks, Boom and Wit. When you’ve indulged and imbibed to your heart’s or rather your stomach’s content, know that there’s no dearth of sights to explore in Northern Ireland. The country is rich in history and culture, with museums a plenty, and grand estates with hidden walled gardens just waiting to be discovered. And of course, there’s the breathtaking Irish coastline and the ever-so-green, bucolic countryside, which no one can resist.

In Belfast, you’ll want to head to the Titanic Quarter to uncover the true legend of Titanic in the city where it all began. There you’ll find Titanic Belfast, the world’s largest Titanic

Features

15

visitor experience, which is housed in an iconic six-floor building. Its state-of-the-art nine interpretive and interactive galleries bring the history of this famed ship, as well as the city and people who made her, to life in an unforgettable way.

Nearby, there’s the SS Nomadic Belfast & Hamilton Dock where the SS Nomadic rests. The old tender ship, originally built in 1911, served the Titanic on her maiden voyage carrying first and second class passengers. It’s the last remaining ship of the White Star line. To learn even more about Belfast’s shipbuilding legacy, visit Titanic’s Dock & Pump-House, and then make a stop at the Titanic

16

Memorial Garden, which is sited in the grounds of Belfast City Hall.

Inscribed in stone are the names of the 1,512 people who perished on the ship 104 years ago.

The Ulster Museum is also of great interest to visitors for its collection of art, history and natural sciences, which tells the story of the people of the north of Ireland from earliest times to the present day. Combine this with a tour of the many political murals which dot the city and depict the region’s past and current political and religious divisions. They have become important symbols of Northern Ireland, and are of great interest to visitors. Themes range from overtly political declarations and graphic

depictions of the age-old conflict, to comments on peace and the peace process.

In Irish Republican areas, events such as the 1981 Irish hunger strike, the Ballymurphy Massacre and McGurk’s Bar bombing are commemorated. In working class Unionist communities, several of the murals promote Ulster loyalist paramilitary groups, as well as commemorate their deceased members.

It’s impossible not to notice the walls that have been erected over the years across Belfast as a means of defusing sectarian tension. There are nearly 100 of them, dividing nationalist Catholic neighborhoods

from loyalist Protestant ones. Many have colorful murals, pictures and graffiti with varying messages scrolled on them. Today, ‘peace gates’ are being opened in some of the walls in an attempt to foster greater links between communities, and the plan is to eventually tear down all of these structures in the next decade.

Outside of Belfast, the countryside reigns with some of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most beautiful estates. Glenarm Castle and Walled Garden ranks up there as one of the finest. Though the castle is only occasionally open to the public due to the fact that it is an occupied residence, the Walled Garden

Features welcomes visitors daily from April until September. It’s a horticultural spectacle in an incomparable setting by the sea with water features, fruit and vegetable gardens, imaginative herbaceous borders and displays of flowers that burst with color. Climb the mount for a view of the castle, the sea and the estate beyond. Then relax and enjoy a snack or light lunch featuring the estate’s own produce in the charming tea room, overlooking the kitchen garden.

For picturesque photo moments, drive the Causeway Coastal Route on up to Derry, Northern Ireland’s second largest city. And if there’s mist, even better, as it’ll add a bit

of Irish magic and mystery to the scene. This is most apparent at the Giant’s Causeway, a geological wonder that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s an awe-inducing marvel containing over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, which were created as a result of intense volcanic and geological activity.

For visitors, it provides a glimpse into the Earth’s most ancient past; an epic sixty million year-old legacy to the cooling and shrinking of successive lava flows. This is a place that’s also steeped in myth and legend, with stories of a mighty giant, Finn McCool, who left behind an ancient home full of folklore.

Local folks believe that between

the hexagons, the mythical features carved out in the rocks and the sea, there’s real magic. They say that you may not always see it right away, but stand on the stones, use your imagination and just wait. It won’t be long until you feel it.

Upon reaching Derry or Londonderry, you’ll be in the oldest intact walled city in all of Ireland. You’ll also be in a town that’s been the subject of a naming dispute between Irish nationalists and unionists. Generally, although not always, the former favor using Derry, and the latter prefer Londonderry. Legally, the city and county are called “Londonderry,” while the local government district containing the city is referred to

as “Derry.” You’ll learn that there are also other names for this place, such as Cathedral City, Walled City, Maiden City, LegenDerry and my favorite, Stroke City (Derry/ Londonderry).

Begin your exploration of the city with a visit to the Tower Museum, which tells the town’s colorful and dramatic history from past to present. Follow it up by joining one of Martin McCrossan’s City Tours to view the historic walls from along the rampart walkway and at ground level. Measuring almost one mile around, the walls date back to the early 1600s when they were first constructed to protect the English and Scots settlers of the new town

17

that was established here as part of the Plantation of Ulster. As you stroll, you’ll learn the names and significance of the various bastions and gates, as well as get a glimpse of famed St. Columb’s Cathedral.

Like Belfast, Derry was also the scene of political strife for many years, and it, too, has murals depicting the issues and events of the times, including the infamous Bloody Sunday. Murals cover the buildings within the Bogside (Irish Republican section) and throughout the Loyalist-occupied areas of town.

Of note is the Peace Mural, found on the Bogside, which represents the peace process and negotiations that have helped bring an end to the terrible violence of the past.

Walking and taxi tours are available for those interested in learning more about this turbulent history and its effects on the populace.

Derry’s Craft Village is a well-known mecca for visitors and locals alike, and has often been described as a hidden jewel in the city’s crown.

This cultural oasis is an eclectic mix of artisan craft shops, charming cafes and balconied apartments.

Dickensian in appearance, with a thatched cottage to boot, it encapsulates a sense of times gone

18

by. The place also serves as a venue for concerts, weddings, conferences and crafts workshops.

If you’re a “Game of Thrones” fan or a “thronie,” you’ll be in good company in Northern Ireland, as there are multitudes of visitors coming from all over the world to indulge their fascination with this popular show. There are numerous sites sprinkled throughout the area that have been used to film the award-winning series. You can follow in the footsteps of the stars and plot a path through the dramatic scenery, taking you to where some of the pivotal scenes were shot, including Winterfell, Robb Stark’s Camp, the Haunted Forest and Inch Abbey. Though the sites are easily accessible for those who wish to explore on their own, there are also several different tour companies which offer various “Game of Thrones” experiences.

No matter what you see or do during your stay in this fair country, remember to take the time to savor each experience one bite at a time.

And as they say in Gaelic, “Ithe Sásta,” or “Bon Appetit!”

For all things Northern Ireland, visit: www.tourismni.com

TIMELESS WAIKIKI Situated on a spectacular stretch of legendary Waikiki Beach, “The First Lady of Waikiki” has welcomed visitors to a place of refined elegance and Hawaiian hospitality since 1901. Combining contemporary style with traditions of a bygone era, this iconic ocean front resort provides a timeless setting of genuine Aloha and personalized services. Its beautifully appointed guestrooms, award-winning restaurant, landmark bar, signature Afternoon Tea and rejuvenating spa ensure a rich and memorable experience.

With the Timeless Waikiki package, receive every 4th night free, daily breakfast for two, room upgrade and $100 dining credit.

FOR RESERVATIONS, VISIT TIMELESSWAIKIKI.COM OR CALL 866.716.8112 AND MENTION TIMELESS

* Offer subject to availability and blackout dates. Other restrictions may apply and are subject to change without notice. For full terms and conditions, visit timelesswaikiki.com. ©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, or its affiliates.

Put A Pin In It

Searching For Mrs Conda First Name Ana

By Debbie Stone This article has been published previously by Way Beyond Borders and the Woodinville Weekly and republished with permission.

I

was a woman on a mission when I set out on my Peruvian Amazon riverboat adventure with International Expeditions. Like most of my fellow passengers, visiting the Amazon was a bucketlist destination, one that promised to be a significant and momentous travel experience. My objective was to learn firsthand about this unique environment and its diverse wildlife, as well as about the people who inhabit its lush and verdant rainforests. I had another goal, though, which was to see an anaconda snake. Odd, I admit, but for some reason, this creature has always held a curious allure for me, after having heard tales of its almost mythical proportions and surreptitious existence. In the wild, an anaconda spends most of its time hanging out in rivers hunting for food. A solitary snake, it is somewhat shy and not easily seen, due to being camouflaged in the swamps and bogs in which it thrives.

The Amazon is the Anaconda’s home and I knew this trip represented the best opportunity for me to finally come eye-to-eye with this storied reptile.

The Amazon is by far the largest river system in the world, containing over two-thirds of all the unfrozen fresh water on earth. There are over 1,100 tributaries within this system, seventeen of which are over 1,000 miles long. The mouth may be 300

22

miles wide and up to 500 billion cubic feet of water surge out to sea per day. In 24 hours, the flow into the Atlantic would sustain New York City’s fresh water needs for nine years. Such mind boggling facts can be difficult to process and are usually met with jaw-dropping amazement from visitors to this legendary destination.

The extensive waterways and favorable climatic conditions of the Amazon Basin have fostered the greatest development of rainforest to be found anywhere on this planet.

Over twenty percent of Earth’s oxygen is produced in this area.

Though the exact number of plant species existing in Amazonia is unknown, over 25,000 have been identified thus far, with new species constantly being discovered.

As for wildlife, the place is a veritable bird-lover’s utopia. Its rich canopy of tropical vegetation is home to an astounding percentage of the world’s bird species. Each day, when we left our mother ship, La Estrella Amazonica, and went on various naturalist-guided excursions via skiffs, we were treated to the sight of countless numbers of birds of every color and size. Their musical sounds created a melodic symphony in the forest. And they possessed delightfully descriptive-sounding names such as wattled jacana, laughing falcon, glittering-throated emerald, spangled cotinga, Amazonian umbrellabird, masked crimson tanager and cobalt-winged parakeet, among many others.

One of my favorites, the horned

screamer, a large bird with a small chicken-like bill and spiny structure projecting forward from its crown, is known for its quirky attributes.

It flies like a vulture, walks like a duck and actually sounds like a donkey a noise that continued to elicit laughter among our group no matter how many times we heard it.

Our naturalist guides, Segundo and siel, as well as our expedition leader, ennis, never ceased to impress me with their eagle eyes and encyclopedic knowledge of the Amazon. While on the skiffs, our heads and bodies were in constant motion. e jockeyed in position, whipping our binoculars around in every direction each time a different bird was spotted. It was a dizzying and dazzling experience that left us in awe of the array of avian life present. And although I am not a birder, I took great satisfaction in being able to recognize a few species after a while, even having enough confidence, for example, to excitedly call out, Yellow-headed caracara at three o’clock. The reward was a nod from the naturalist confirming the identity.

The Amazon is also a dream come true for butterfly enthusiasts, with more than ,000 species of these delicate creatures and some 20,000 species of moths. They are an incredible sight, as they flutter by the water’s edge or along a jungle trail adorned in their brilliant apparel. They join the parade of flamboyant insects such as the rainbow grasshopper and the pink-toed tarantula, along with

all the glittering frogs, toads, lizards and turtles that we found along the river.

So much of the wildlife, from the green tree iguana and three-toed sloth to the long-nosed bat and olive whip snake, artfully conceal themselves to prevent predators from finding them. They seamlessly blend into the environment, appearing as parts of leaves, sticks and branches. It took me some time to train my eyes and even then, I would have missed dozens of creatures had not the guides pointed them out. I realized quickly on that the Amazon teems and pulsates with life, even when you can’t see anything moving. It’s a living, breathing system a complex organism that never sleeps.

Though there are some large animals in the Amazon, many are nocturnal and remain inactive during the day or choose to remain hidden. Monkeys, however, are the exception. They are out in full force, jumping and almost free-falling from tree to tree high up in the forest canopy. Their noises identify them long before they’re visible. e reveled in their sight and took great joy in observing their behavior. It’s hard not to fall in love with the cute pygmy marmosets or the owl monkeys and capuchins, but I think the red howler got the most attention for its amusing sounds and mischievous antics.

As it was high season and water levels were high, we spent much time on the river, as opposed to the land, which provided an ideal perspective

for spotting wildlife. It also gave us a great opportunity to examine creatures that reside within the river itself, from the multitude of exotic fish to the eely water snakes and caiman. The pink river dolphin was the star attraction. Born grey, these dolphins become pinker with age because their skin gets more translucent, allowing the blood to show through their bodies. hen we came upon a small pod of these flamingo-hued, playful mammals, everyone jumped up in the boat and tried to take pictures of them. Most of us were unsuccessful in capturing that special odak moment, as the dolphins spent only a nanosecond above the water, teasing us with their splendid color. Instead of being frustrated, however, I decided to sit back and fully absorb this spectacular sight, taking my own mental photos for later. The dolphins reappeared several times during our trip and even made an appearance while we were swimming in the river.

Through observing and studying wildlife is the main focus of an Amazon riverboat journey, there are so many other aspects to this adventure. hen we weren’t riding in the skiffs in search of creatures, our group visited villages and interacted with the local people.

One morning, we went to a school where we donated supplies, taught the children the okey Pokey and learned about the educational system. Educational opportunities are few for kids who grow up in the Amazon, unless they opt to move to the city of Iquitos, capital of the Peruvian Amazon, where secondary

23

schools and colleges exist. Iquitos, with a population of 00,000, can only be reached by river or air, as there are no roads connecting it to the outside. Surrounded in all directions by forests and a maze of rivers and streams, it is an oasis in the midst of the Amazon. The city is the hub of civilization in the region, and is also the arrival and departure point for riverboat trips.

Another time, we met with Maestro uan, a wizened and wise shaman, who shared information about his eight-year training regimen, which began at the age of seventeen. e told us he was born with the gift and that he has the ability to talk with the spirits of plants after ingesting a highly hallucinogenic botanic, which sends him into a deep trance. e grows his own plants for medicinal purposes and treats others who are ill with his portable rainforest pharmacy. At the end of the session, he offered us each a blessing for safe travels. e came across many ibere os, or river people, of all ages in their various watercraft, ranging from dugout canoes to small motorboats, as boating is the sole method of transportation in the region. The river is life on the Amazon, and all

24

activities are centered on it. It is a main source of drinking water and food, with fishing the dominant industry and livelihood of the people. ids at a young age become very adept at handling boats, because they use them as a means to get to and from school each day. And when it’s election time, the government sends in the military to set up floating booths along the Amazon, ensuring that all people are able to cast their votes, as voting is mandatory in Peru. ouses are built on stilts, which is a necessity in the high water season, as flood waters annually rise over forty feet. It was difficult to imagine all the water we saw disappearing and becoming rice and watermelon plantations come ecember. Naturalists told us to envision a totally different landscape in the dry season, where many of the small passageways we explored would be nonexistent.

Although I didn’t plan my trip to coincide with the high season, I’m glad it worked out that way, as there are a number of beautiful areas the skiffs would be unable to navigate in low water months. Picture breaking trail with a boat through a mass of densely compacted water hyacinths that lead to a pristine lake. Once the boat carves its path, the hyacinths seal back into

their original place, as if they were never disturbed, and the area looks like a meadow you could walk upon.

Overhanging vegetation with its dangling vines drip with moisture in the heavy humidity, while oropendola birds’ nests appear as earrings for the trees. This primordial setting makes you feel as if you’ve wandered into a scene from urassic Park. ishing for red-bellied piranha was another unique and entertaining activity that our group engaged in during the trip. The technique was simple Skewer a piece of raw meat to a hooked line, thrash the thin wooden pole in the water to attract the attention of the piranhas and then pull up when you feel a tug.

Even I, who have had little to no fishing experience, was successful in catching one of these carnivorous creatures. I didn’t spend much time admiring my catch rather, I quickly handed it over to the boat driver, trying to avoid the fish’s sharp teeth and violent movements. The piranha’s ferocious reputation is most deserved, and many a local fisherman bears the scars of carelessness when handling them.

Sunsets in the Amazon are pure magic. Most of the time, by late afternoon, we were back on La

Travel Features Estrella Amazonica, enjoying happy hour on the top open-air deck, and listening to our multi-talented naturalists and crew play everything from traditional Peruvian folk music to American rock n’ roll. e watched the sky slowly become a collage of fiery colors before darkness set in and paved the way for stars to give us a double feature. One evening, we took the skiffs out for a ringside seat to this performance. e were serenaded by a chorus of frogs, while fireflies and glow worms winked flirtatiously at us. Our guides and boat drivers used their beacons and spotlights to locate nocturnal wildlife. Seeing the red eyes of a caiman blaze in the darkness gave me an eerie feeling, knowing that these and other creatures in the jungle were watching our every movement.

Living quarters on the charming La Estrella Amazonica are cozy, yet comfortable for the 2 passengers and crew. In addition to staterooms, there’s a dining area, lounge bar, lecture meeting room and even a tiny workout facility. Food is served buffet style with several entr e options, including fresh fish, and plenty of delicious tropical fruit and veggies. Staff are accommodating and hospitable, making every effort to please.

They are gracious and polite, and never fail to greet you with a warm, welcoming smile. They also have a great sense of humor, which automatically sets passengers at ease.

The naturalists are not only guides extraordinaire, but musicians and storytellers. They enjoyed regaling us with Amazonian folklore, which often dealt with superstitions and myths about such creatures as the jaguar, sloth and pink dolphin. Many of the tales had morals and warnings that people in the villages continue to adhere to even today.

In the span of our week-long trip, we went a total of 0 miles on the river. e explored several tributaries of the Amazon, as well as the famed Pacaya-Samira National eserve, one of the largest protected areas in Peru, with a size approximating Belgium. Its main purpose is to preserve ecosystems of the Omagua egion and to promote sustainable development of local villages. The reserve’s biodiversity is immense, and the level of involvement of residents in regards to conservation is remarkable. Nearly 3,000 people live in and around the area within 20 communities. angers work with residents to preserve this

unspoiled locale, and they take their role seriously.

Throughout the journey, I kept my eye out for the elusive Mrs. Conda first name, Ana. As the days went by without a sign, I began to accept the reality that this legendary snake and I were destined not to meet. At the tail end of the trip, we went on a jungle walk, where local trackers came along to assist naturalists in finding various creatures. As we trekked through the thick foliage, lined by walking palms and massive banyans or Avatar-like trees with their gnarly roots and thick trunks, the intensity of color was almost blinding. After examining such creatures as bullet ants, poison dart frogs, horned toads and a red-tailed boa constrictor, we heard a sudden shout. Mrs. Conda had been found, exactly where expected on the edge of a boggy swamp, wellcamouflaged in her eco-green skin.

The tracker picked up the snake and held it out to us for a good look, keeping his hands and body away from its fangs, while it struggled mightily and forcefully to be released. Though the anaconda is not venomous, it is incredibly powerful and employs constriction to subdue its prey. e noted that the snake’s girth was large some grow as big around as a grown man , but that it was not very long in size, and one of the naturalists commented that it was probably an immature anaconda.

I was ecstatic nevertheless with this younger version, a Miss Conda, if you like mission accomplished

If you go

There are a number of companies that offer riverboat trips in the Peruvian Amazon. I opted to go with International Expeditions, due to its stellar reputation in the industry.

It is a pioneer in ecotourism and is known as a world leader in smallgroup nature travel, with a host of award-winning experiences and unique itineraries to far-flung destinations. I was also attracted to the company because it has a long history of supporting conservation projects across the globe. In the Amazon, for example, it helps to fund ongoing conservation efforts, such as building water-treatment plants in villages, funding the Amazon Medical Clinic and developing Las Malvinas rban arden Project in Iquitos, Peru. or more information about International Expeditions www.i.e.travel.com.

25

a t u P t i n i Pidnefinable Magic

The In a b u C s i that tone

By Debbie S

A

ny reason is a good reason to visit Cuba. Maybe it’s the island’s legendary music that’s the allure. Perhaps it’s the colonial architecture and wonderfully preserved history that offers the appeal. Or possibly, the country’s political situation is of great interest to you. Then, of course, there are the people.

Comprised of a colorful melting pot of cultures from Spain, Africa, Asia and elsewhere, they represent diversity at its finest.

Cuba has been a forbidden fruit for Americans for more than a half-century and the mystique surrounding it has continued to grow over the years. It has captivated our attention and piqued our interest, which is why I jumped at the chance at visiting our neighbor to the south when given the opportunity. The main reason I decided to journey to this complex country was to satisfy a long held burning curiosity, coupled with the sense of urgency I felt in regard to unknown future events. Put it bluntly: I wanted to see Cuba before the Golden Arches and Starbucks made their entrance.

For those Americans who want to explore this unique destination, it’s legally possible, but you still must play by the rules despite the recent thawing in relations between the U.S. and Cuba. If you go, you will need to participate in an educational, cultural or religiousoriented program that fosters people-to-people experiences, operated by one of the dozen or so companies that have licenses to bring U.S. citizens to the country.

Though the idea of being on a tour might deter you, know that it’s the only way at present to get an up-close and personal look at this enigmatic and fascinating place.

I chose to join a music and artsthemed tour entitled “Jazz in Havana” with Insight Cuba, a non-profit organization that has a stellar reputation for providing quality programs. The company is the most experienced provider of licensed people-to-people Cuba travel in the industry. It has sent over 12,000 Americans to Cuba since its inception in 2000 and is a pioneer in this arena, offering a broad selection of tours spanning the country. My fellow travelers, twelve total, were a diverse group, but we shared one common quality – curiosity – plus we all had Cuba at the top of our travel bucket list.

It’s only a mere 93 miles from the

28 50

U.S., yet Cuba is a world away. Leave your Western certainties behind as you travel to a land that seems frozen in time, and where expecting the unexpected is the optimal attitude to embrace. Each adventure you’ll have, and I guarantee there’ll be many, from crazy midnight rides with cab drivers who spend more time practicing their English and less time with their eyes on the road, to wandering down shadowy alleyways at night in search of unmarked private restaurants, will serve to increase your understanding, while confounding your perceptions, of this country.

The first thing you might notice upon arrival are all the vintage Americanmade cars roaming the streets.

There are hundreds of these museum pieces such as Chevy’s Bel Air and Impala models, Ford Thunderbird, Plymouth Belvedere and Mercury Monterrey among others. They’re vestiges from the 1950s when they were brought into Cuba before the

style with the top down, hands over their heads, as if they’re on an exhilarating roller coaster ride. And if there’s a catchy salsa tune playing on the radio, even better.

You’ll be surprised to find that a number of these classic cab drivers are well-educated folks. One man we met was actually a trained clinical psychologist, who unfortunately could not earn enough money at this profession to support his family.

Another was a professor of sports, who also had the same problem.

Driving a taxi provides a way for these individuals to make ends meet, as their previous jobs netted them on average a meager $25 a month.

The second observation you will probably note about Cuba is the dilapidated state of its older buildings. Many lie in ruins and tatters and are in desperate need of repair. In some quarters of Havana, for example, it feels like the city is crumbling down around its residents,

U.S. declared a trade embargo in 1960 that stopped all imports. From that point on, innovative Cubans found ways to keep these prized vehicles in operation despite not having the necessary equipment.

Over the years, they have been painted and repaired countless times with rebuilt engines and mismatched parts, while their ruined interiors are now hidden underneath ingeniously redone upholstery.

Obsessive care has kept many of the cars in remarkable shape, considering their extensive use, primarily as taxi cabs. Instead of nostalgic wheels and collectors’ items, however, they are the livelihood of their owners who depend on them for their major source of income.

as there are actual piles of fallen bricks littering the streets.

Occasionally, you will see someone trying to clean up the debris -- one guy with a shovel and a wheelbarrow making little to no headway on a monster-sized heap. In other locales within this UNESCO-listed town, however, the safeguarding of the country’s historical legacy has been an active pursuit, with preservation of its colonial treasures a priority.

Grand squares, stately homes and cobbled walkways provide a glimpse of the opulence that once reigned supreme within this lively metropolis. Though the structures are timeworn and shabby, they still manage to retain their magnificence, like dignified, aging dowagers.

Visitors love these bright, candycolored cars and are drawn to them like magnets. They are in fierce demand and tourists enjoy the experience of cruising through Havana convertible-

Cubans live their lives in the open.

This practice will become very apparent during your visit. It’s behavior that’s typical of populations residing in warm

weather locales, where the majority of residents lack air conditioners and often have small, cramped homes or apartments. Cubans, however, are also very social people who have a deep sense of community. The atmospheric streets of Havana are always bustling and teeming with people. Parents walk their kids to school, then make their way to work or to shop at the markets. Teens hang out together in noisy groups just like they do in other parts of the world. And older citizens sit on benches or on stoops chatting with one another, while watching the scene unfold in front of them. Then there are all the street vendors and shopkeepers who are out in full force promoting their wares. Aromas of tropical fruit and flowers mix with those of tobacco leaf and gas from the ancient vehicles that clog the roadways. There’s also a musty, mildewed odor that’s pervasive, especially in and around the older areas of town. At first, you are hyper aware of these clashing scents, but within just a few days, they become a natural part of the backdrop.

The musicality of the people is also very obvious to everyone who visits the island. Cuba is a rhythm nation with a world famous music scene that is one of the country’s biggest draws.

You can feel it everywhere you go -- in established venues where performers fill the air with bata and maracas, in the neighborhoods where radios blare with Afro, jazz, rock and rap beats and in the streets when the buskers serenade passersby with their Spanish guitars. The island pulsates with music. It’s an energizer and inspirer.

It’s the heartbeat of the people.

On Insight Cuba’s “Jazz in Havana” tour, you’ll be immersed in music and ushered behind the scenes to discover the history of these beats, while engaging in meaningful dialogue with musicians, music teachers and others eager to share their knowledge. Our group visited Abdala, Cuba’s top recording studio, where we were treated to a private jazz performance by the band Real Project. It was a truly special experience, as the group played several original compositions and then took the time to tell us about themselves and their musical influences. Another day we heard the Alejandro Falcon Trio perform on the patio of Espacios Restaurant. Once again, this was a private show exclusive for our group with an opportunity for dialogue. In the evenings, there was more music with famed jazz pianist Roberto Fonseca and his band giving a stellar

PREVIOUS PAGE: © SHUTTERSTOCK

Features T a el

29 51

performance at the Hotel Melía Cohiba. We also heard from the influential musician and musicologist, Alberto Faya, who provided us with an overview of Cuban music, emphasizing its strong relationship between preserving culture and preserving life. “We Cubans,” he said, “breathe music all the time. It’s so much a part of the cultural fabric.”

In addition to music, the tour also incorporated dance and art, with excursions to see Afro Cuba, a colorful and dynamic Afro Cuban dance troupe with eye-popping physicality, and the Santa Malia Jazz Dance Project. The latter is comprised of a group of dancers ranging in age from 65 to 87 who perform traditional jazz choreography in the home of Grammyaward winner, Chucho Valdes, one of the country’s most renowned rhythm kings. These senior citizens’ passion and spirit, not to mention their agility

30 52

and talent, is remarkable. Their love of dance is contagious and during our visit they had everyone on the floor strutting their newly acquired Latin dance moves.

It’s not just the adults who are involved in the arts, but also the children who are carrying on these vibrant traditions in the schools and after-school programs. In the village of Matanzas, for example, a new community project offers children the opportunity to learn Cuban and Spanish dance. Other activities include guitar and voice lessons, and classes in basic etiquette. The kids take immense enjoyment in performing for visitors and the pride they have in their accomplishments is testament to the success of the program. Another project we visited was geared towards youth living in Centro Havana, a more high risk area of the city, and involved the art of

paper mache. Founded by Lazaro Salsita, a noted painter and lithographer, the program teaches children how to make art using recycled materials and papiermâché . They are then free to keep whatever they make or they can choose to sell their creations on site. Salsita’s house is a veritable papier-mâché museum with hundreds of items lining the walls of every room.

Finally, when it comes to art, a visit to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Havana is a must. There are two buildings: one houses an international collection and the other focuses on works by Cuban artists. The latter contains an impressive range of pieces from Cuban surrealism and contemporary abstracts to landscapes, sculptures and politically-charged works. It’s an eye-opener to the moods and

Features T a el reflections of Cuban artists through the years, who chose to express their reactions to a variety of historical, political and social events.

Food is an integral part of any society and Cuba is no different.

You’ll notice that Cubans view mealtimes as social gatherings and reasons for extended family and friends to get together. Though our group had been prepared to expect the food to be bland and repetitive, we were pleasantly surprised to find this not to be the case. We encountered much more than the Cuban dietary staples of black beans and rice. Cuban cuisine is a fusion of Spanish, African and Caribbean flavors. There are also some Chinese influence, especially in Havana. We sampled an array of tasty options, from fresh grilled fish and ceviche to homemade pastas and paellas.

And every meal is finished off with a cup of strong Cuban coffee or espresso. As for libations, there are many favorites, from the proverbial mojito and Cuba Libre to the daiquiri and El Presidente, among others.

The daiquiri was popularized by the bar La Floridita and championed

by Ernest Hemingway, who was a regular visit to this renowned watering hole in Old Havana.

A statue of the famed writer is installed next to the bar and photos of him dot the walls. The venerated establishment and its lively scene attracts visitors from around the globe.

One of the best ways to enjoy Cuban food is to dine at a “paladar,” a small, family-run restaurant, usually in a converted part of a home. These charming, intimate settings are a wonderful way to experience a meal, where you’re guaranteed to get authentic, local cuisine, great service and an unforgettable ambiance that often includes live music.

It’s the people of this unique country that will leave the most lasting impression on you. Despite being oppressed and economically depressed for so many years, they remarkably still retain a sense of optimism and joie de vivre. They are warm, open and hospitable to visitors, eager to talk about current events and share their culture, as well as their hopes and dreams for the future. It’s through such cherished interactions that you will experience the true spirit of Cuba.

For more information about Insight Cuba’s tour options to Cuba, visit: www.insightcuba.com.

31 53

Blending personalized service, stylish spaces and an alluring atmosphere to deliver an uncommon Hawaiian experience.

855.706.1653

It began with a small documentary film crew traveling to Italy on a quest to find surfing waves in the Mediterranean Sea. It became a larger group of friends with a shared vision for living life to it’s fullest and embracing a conscious, eco-friendly approach to all of our actions.

Collectively, we are proud to present the ZIOBAFFA - BELLA VITA - Filmmaker Edition Wines.

100% organic, sustainably produced, Italian Wine. Featuring recycled packaging and the revolutionary HelixÂŽ re-usable eco-cork. These wines are a modern twist on an old tradition.

Distribution by Sage Beverages

ZIOBAFFA.COM

Put a Pin in it

By Debbie Stone

Features Travel

The Three R’s of Kaua’i Rebalance Replenish and A Revive

t one point during my blissful lomi lomi massage, I actually nodded off and awoke to drool inching down my chin. When I embarrassingly made a comment about it, my therapist Connie kindly complimented me on my ability to drift off, saying that it was a sign of complete relaxation or “malie” in Hawaiian. I, in turn, returned the compliment, noting the expertise of her magic fingers. The tension seemed to just melt away as she worked wonders on all of my body’s knots. That, combined with being in a semi-open air treatment room where I could hear the rustling of the palms and smell the perfumed scent of the flowers, made for a heavenly experience. It was one of many I would have during a memorable stay on the Island of Kaua’i.

The oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, Kaua’i is known for its incomparable beauty. The “Garden Isle” has it all, from miles of white sand beaches and crystal blue ocean to rugged mountains, majestic canyons, thundering waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage. But, Kaua’i is more than just a pretty face. You’ll find a diverse array of dining, art, shopping and charming, historic little towns dotting its expanse. And then there are the people, who have the reputation of being among the friendliest residents of all the

35

islands. They welcome you with the true spirit of aloha.

As a visitor to this special piece of paradise, you’ll find no shortage of things to do. The scenery sets the stage for an array of activities that not only energize, but challenge your body in a myriad of ways. Recreation reigns supreme with a range of mellow to high adventure options available. If you’re a water baby, there’s everything from snorkeling off the famed Napali Coast and

36

boogie boarding at Kiahuna Beach to kayaking the Hanalei River and mountain tubing down the tropical waterways of the island’s interior.

If you’re more comfortable on land, join a bike tour with Polynesian Adventure Tours down stunning Wailea Canyon. At 3,600-feet-deep, two miles wide and ten miles long, this “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” is a true gem, brilliantly layered in hues of red, green and brown. Take a hike at Koke’e State Park, a hiker’s mecca

with more than forty miles of trails and plenty of picturesque vistas. Or hop on a horse for a memorable ride with Princeville Ranch Adventures across a working cattle ranch.

Those looking for a unique perspective of the island can go on an exhilarating zipline trek with Outfitters Kaua’i, where you’ll have a bird’s eye view of Kaua’i’s stunning topography. You’ll soar above valleys, rivers and waterfalls ala Tarzan and Jane for a guaranteed adrenaline

Features Travel

high. A helicopter tour, however, is the ultimate way to get the lay of the land. It’s definitely a splurgeworthy alternative and one for the memory books. And as long as you’re going all out, make it a waterfall landing excursion. Island Helicopters’ exclusive tour takes you to the 400-foot Manawaiopuna Falls, which was popularized in the movie, “Jurassic Park.” The helicopter sets down in a tropical valley at the base of the falls, allowing you to experience the grandeur of this

remote, tropical site. The ride also includes a narrated tour of the island with gasp-inducing views of the Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon.

Though it’s definitely an adrenaline junkie’s haven, Kaua’i is also a destination where you can get away from it all and find some much-needed peace. The island allows many opportunities to slow down and smell the plumeria. It’s a place that encourages folks to

focus on themselves by carving out “me time.” And in our crazed on-the-go culture, everyone needs to occasionally press the pause button and focus on re-balancing, replenishing and reviving mind, body and spirit. Whether it’s strolling on the beach, watching a spectacular sunset, having a relaxing spa treatment or enjoying a nature walk, the point is to give yourself the chance to work on establishing a bit of inner harmony.

Several resorts and hotels on the island actually promote personal wellness via dedicated programs in this vein. At the St. Regis Princeville, for example, meditation and wellness retreats are offered at specific times of the year. They include guided restorative yoga, meditation and pranayama sessions, spa treatments, visits to sacred sites and botanical gardens, farm-to-table communal dinners and more. The property even has its own on-site Hawaiian guide to cultural wellness, Puna Kalama

37

Dawson, who invites guests to join her in the age-old morning ritual of greeting the sun as it rises from the ocean. Dawson advocates visitors to be in the moment, be mindful and to take the time to appreciate what we have and to share it with others. She emphasizes the indigenous tradition of using breath or “ha” to quiet the mind, which helps direct us into an awareness of our inner spaces. She also encourages people to be kind to

themselves and others, while exercising patience and humility.

Wise words that we all can take to heart.

Wellness is also practiced at the Westin Princeville where a “Wellbeing Movement” is promoted via a selection of “Move Well” activities ranging from yoga and aqua aerobics classes to fitness runs and nature walks. The property’s “Eat Well”

program helps to complement these activities. Its restaurants offer Superfoods, those that are both high in antioxidants and nutrient rich, which are denoted in color on the menus. There’s even a “Kids Eat Well Program” to assist children with making healthy food choices. The hotel advocates using locally sourced products whenever possible and works with island farmers and growers to obtain the freshest, in-season, ingredients.

At the Grand Hyatt Resort, you’ll find a state-of-the-art gym, personal trainers, an abundance of fitness classes, sunrise walks and the largest spa on the island. Anara Spa is Edenesque in design, with lush gardens, waterfalls and peaceful pools. Practitioners pride themselves on weaving traditional healing customs with island-fresh botanical essences to inspire “lokahi” – balance or harmony of body and spirit. In addition, the Grand Hyatt boasts an “Enrich Program,” which provides opportunities for guests to enhance their vacation through local volunteering. It’s a chance to give back to the island community in a meaningful way and maybe learn a new skill or two in the process. You can spend a day working with plants at the National Tropical Botanical Garden for example, or do hands-on

38

forest restoration projects at Koke’e State Park. With the Surfrider Foundation, you’ll help clean up the beaches and at the Kaua’i Humane Society, you can cuddle cats or take a dog on a hike.

Music and dance are also commonly regarded as good for the spirit, and thus successful contributors to wellness. On Kaua’i, there’s no lack of opportunities to listen and

participate in either of these arts.

Numerous properties on the island have live music at night, as well as offer traditional hula classes for interested participants. Some even provide free ukulele and slack-key guitar instructional sessions, too.

There’s also the proverbial luau, which combines song and dance for a theatrical extravaganza. Lu’au Kalamaku at Kilohana Plantation is one of the best. It’s mesmerizing

dinner theatre with a dash of Cirque du Soleil.

When it’s time to take your leave of this little slice of paradise, do as the Hawaiians do and don’t say goodbye. Just say “a hui hou” until we meet again.

For all things Kaua’i: www.kauaidiscovery.com

LUXU RY- C L A S S RE A D I N G BEC AUSE EVERYONE HAS TO COME INSIDE SOMETIME No one wants to . . . of course!

But when it can’t be delayed any longer, why not curl up with a nautical book from Bloomsbury?

Hardback, $60.00*

Hardback, $60.00*

From beautifully illustrated gift books to rip-roaring sea tales and practical guides that turn your sailing dreams into reality, bring Bloomsbury onboard and find yourself back outside and sailing the sea in an instant.

www.bloomsbur y.com/nautical *Available now at your local bookseller or online retailer.

Put A Pin In It!

Cloudcroft, NM

9000ft Above Stress Level

By Debbie Stone

I

f things go bump in the night during your stay at The Lodge Resort & Spa, not to worry. It’s most likely Rebecca, the friendly and mischievous ghost that wanders the hall of this historic hotel in Cloudcroft, New Mexico.

In these parts, she’s a popular legend, whose tale is one of passion, betrayal and unrequited love.

A beautiful young chambermaid with striking blue eyes and long red tresses, Rebecca mysteriously disappeared from her quarters after

her jealous and enraged lumberjack boyfriend found her in the arms of another. That was a century ago, yet there are those who vow that Rebecca’s spirit is still present in the hotel today. Some have seen her apparition in mirrors; others note such unexplained incidents as ashtrays sliding across tables unassisted, doors opening and closing for no apparent reason, lights turning on and off by themselves and even fires that have spontaneously ignited in the lobby

fireplace. Over the years, both guests and employees attribute these odd happenings to Rebecca’s ghost, who many believe is in search of a new lover or friend who might appreciate her playful and flirtatious nature.

Rebecca is not the only famous person associated with The Lodge.

Among the notables who have stayed at this grand dame of a property are Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Pancho Villa and every New Mexico governor

since 1901. Originally built in 1899 as a residential hotel for timber cutters working for the Alamogordo and Sacramento Mountain Railway, the property opened to the public in 1906 and became known as the “Queen of the Mountain”. It was subsequently destroyed by fire and rebuilt five years later at its current location, where it has since been in business as an upscale mountaintop lodge, complete with its own observation tower.

Though the property has been refurbished inside and out, it still retains its historical bones and is a testament to a bygone era. Old photos, newspaper clippings and various factoids line the walls, giving visitors a snapshot of the hotel’s storied past. Each of the resort’s 47 rooms are decorated with a unique Victorian flair.

There are several types of accommodations, including romantic Parlor Suites, family-friendly Guest Rooms and even a Honeymoon Suite that’s a treat for lovers of all ages.

And of course, there’s the famed Governor’s Suite, fit for royalty with its four-poster bed, intimate sitting area and elegant foyer. Nearby, the Lodge also offers its Pavilion Bed Breakfast Rooms ten cozy rooms with knotty pine walls that provide rustic yet quaint quarters. Then there’s also The Retreat Suites, four private luxury suites that share a common area with kitchen and conference facilities, making it an ideal setting for small company meetings or family reunions.

A massive copper fireplace is the

focal point of The Lodge’s spacious lobby. Folks often congregate here in the evening before or after eating a sumptuous meal in the hotel’s restaurant, which is named in honor of the resident ghost. Serving some of the finest Southwestern and classic continental cuisine, Rebecca’s is considered a Cloudcroft favorite and is popular not only with guests, but with the locals, too. You’ll wax poetic while you sit amid spectacular views of the Tularosa Basin and White Sands and dine on such specialties as Savory Blackened Chicken Cheesecake, tablesideprepared Classic Caesar, Roasted Jalapeno Sweet Potato Bisque and Red Chile Crusted Rack of Lamb.

Carnivores will swoon over the bacon-wrapped Filet Mignon, while seafood aficionados will enjoy the Seared Ruby Red Trout and Pecan Crusted Atlantic King Salmon.

Rebecca’s Signature Selection is Chateaubriand for two, a six-course extravaganza that is an experience

43

its trestles and bridges remain. In the winter, with Mother Nature’s cooperation, Cloudcroft is a magnet for skiers, snowboarders and tubers.

For history buffs, the Sacramento Mountains Historical Museum & Pioneer Village helps bring the past alive by providing a view of what life was like in this region a hundred years ago. Kids will particularly enjoy seeing the antique fire trucks, caboose, blacksmith shop, one-room school, barbershop and an outhouse built for two. Shoppers will enjoy pedestrian-friendly Burro Street, Cloudcroft’s main drag, with its stores and galleries, offering eclectic fare. Many talented artists and craftspeople reside in the area, and you’ll be surprised by the range and quality of goods, from fine jewelry and aromatherapy products to local art, pottery and unique clothing. For literary-inclined folks, Imaginary Books is a must. And if wine and cheese is your thing, make sure to visit Noisy Water. The store features some great made-in-New Mexico wines and cheeses, along with a selection of exquisitely-nuanced balsamic vinegars and olive oils.

And yes, you can sample and taste to your heart’s content. in itself. For dessert, there’s an array of delectable house-baked sweets along with several flambéed concoctions like Bananas Foster and Cherries Jubilee. Have your afterdinner libation in the adjoining lounge, with its bar that was once owned by Al Capone – I kid you not.

You’ll never lack for activity at The Lodge. Amenities include a fitness room, swimming pool, full-service spa, sauna and hot tub, onsite hiking trails and a variety of lawn games for some old-fashioned fun. There’s also the resort’s popular golf course, a premier attraction of the Southwest. Built in 1899, the course was designed with Scottish roots in mind. It’s governed by the Scottish tradition of playing different tees and separate flags on each hole. When played twice, it becomes a challenging 18-hole round. And at 9,000 feet above sea level it’s one of the highest courses in North American.

The Lodge enjoys a heavy repeat business, with couples and families who continue to make this southeastern New Mexico oasis their annual vacation destination. They return year after year because they appreciate the personalized service, consistency of staff and warm hospitality. A stay at the hotel takes

44

them back in time, but without sacrificing modern comforts.

Conference-goers also give the place high marks, as they have plenty of room to spread out within the property’s 11,000 square feet of meeting space. And it’s also a mecca for weddings, with its indooroutdoor ceremony and reception capabilities. A charming gazebo sets the stage for a memorable affair – or a summer concert.

In and around Cloudcroft, you’ll find

numerous recreation options, from fishing and hiking to camping and horseback riding, as the town is surrounded by over 200,000 acres of the Lincoln National Forest. Take your pick of dozens of trails, some that lead to picture-pretty streams and waterfalls and others that offer views of the old wooden trestles that once took trains to the timber forests and later carried tourists up the mountain to the new hamlet of Cloudcroft. Though the railroad line was abandoned in 1948, vestiges of

When you’ve shopped till you drop and need some sustenance, know that you won’t have to go far for a good meal. The Western Café, a 100-year-old Cloudcroft institution with plenty of character, is known for its Mexican food, as well as its burgers, not to mention ample portions. This historical establishment is on New Mexico’s famed Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail, a designation that comes with plenty of bragging rights. And it’s also a popular watering hole in town, offering live music and dancing on the weekends. When you walk in, the first thing you’ll notice is the unique décor thousands of dollar bills that have been affixed to the building’s walls and ceilings.

Customers “donate” a bill, by signing it with their names in permanent marker, and then stapling it to a spot of their choice. It’s just one of the many traditions at the Western Cafe.

Barbecue is also big in Cloudcroft, and Big Daddy’s is the place to chow down on all your favorite cowboy grub. Dave’s Café specializes in burgers and sandwiches; for killer homemade pies, head over to the Front Porch Bistro.

Attractions nearby that deserve mention include Sunspot, one of the

Features

largest solar observatories in the world, with a visitor and learning center focusing on solar activity observation. Down the mountain in Alamogordo, you’ll find Eagle Ranch Pistachio Farm, a family owned and operated business that offers free tours of its facility and operations plant. There’s also the International Space Hall of Fame, the Tombaugh Omnimax Space Theater and Planetarium, the Astronaut Memorial Garden, Air and Space Park and a Shuttle Camp – all features of the city’s well-known Space Center.

A highlight of any stay in the Cloudcroft area is a trip to White Sands National Monument, one of the world’s great natural wonders.

Massive wave-like dunes of gypsum sand cover nearly 300 square miles of desert, creating the largest gypsum dune field on the planet.

The brilliant white dunes are ever changing. They grow, crest, then slump, but always advance. Slowly, but relentlessly, the sand, with the help of strong southwest winds, covers everything in its path. Only a few species of plants have adapted successfully to the harsh environmental conditions. They are able to survive by growing rapidly in order to fend off burial by the moving dunes, while the small animals in existence have evolved white colorations to camouflage

them in the gypsum sand.

Most visitors to White Sands stop at the historic adobe visitor center to get their bearings. There is a good orientation film, along with several.

You can also purchase a disc sled in the gift shop if you plan on sliding down the dunes. Make sure you also get some wax to help make your descent easier. The Dunes Drive leads from the visitor center eight miles into the heart of the dunes.

Wayside exhibits interpret the

geology and natural history of the sands. Make sure to get out of your car and hike one of the several marked trails to explore the dunes on foot. You also have the option of taking a ranger-led walk. And if you’ve timed your visit during a full moon, you’ll be able to participate in a variety of special programs, including full moon hikes and bike rides through the monument

(registration necessary), along with opportunities to listen to live music while you sit back and enjoy the unique beauty of this magical environment.

If you go

www.TheLodgeResort.com www.cloudcroft.com White Sands National Monument www.nps.gov/whsa

45

Discovering your family history is a journey home.

Meander into the past and find the place where your ancestors lived. Search your family tree, through the generations. Meet distant cousins who share your great-great-grandfather. You’ll feel a new, deeper sense of belonging when you experience your heritage firsthand.

Andrew McCarthy and 25 other powerful writers, including Pico Iyer, Joyce Maynard, and Diane Johnson, share their poignant insights into the meaning of home and their journey to find it.

Home isn’t only the place to return after a journey . . . it can also be the journey itself.

AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD and at nationalgeographic.com/books

Like us on Facebook: Nat Geo Books

Follow us on Twitter: @NatGeoBooks © 2015 National Geographic Society

Put a Pin in it!

Experience the WOW Factor of Sweetwater County Wyoming

By Debbie Stone

M

y goal was not to fall in -especially so close to the dock where a group of curious onlookers attentively watched my stand-up paddle-boarding attempts on the lake at Red Canyon Lodge.

It was a make-or-break moment as I rose up from my knees, first to an awkward squatting position and then slowly to full extension. I was shaking as I stood on the board, legs quivering like jelly and hands clenched in white knuckle fashion around the paddle. Then I began to move, trying to remember to retain a slight bend in my knees, to keep eyes focused ahead and alternate paddle strokes from side to side. It was slow going initially, as I didn’t trust my balance nor the board’s stability, and I felt like a frozen statue. But gradually I started to loosen up as

34 50

I gained confidence in my skills.

Though I never quite reached that Zen moment of becoming one with my paddle, I did, however, feel proud of my accomplishments and excited to learn a fun, new sport.

Stand-up paddleboarding is just one of dozens of activities visitors can experience while exploring Sweetwater County, Wyoming. To many, this area is relatively unknown in comparison to the state’s more popular destinations of Yellowstone and the Tetons. What people don’t realize, however, is that this hidden gem is an all-ages adventure playground, ripe for discovery.

Located in the southwestern corner of Wyoming, Sweetwater County is ideally situated for those heading to the famed national parks. It makes a perfect stopover, but once you realize

how much there is to see and do here, you’ll most likely want to extend your stay. There’s something for everyone, from the adrenaline junkie to the history buff and rock hound.

Start in Rock Springs, where you can take a trip back in time and dig into the state’s mining and railroad past.

This desert oasis, named for a former spring that babbled through town, grew with the development of the area’s coal mining production and subsequent need for railroads.

Today, it thrives with trona mines.

The mineral is a common source of soda ash used in manufacturing glass, chemicals, paper, detergents and textiles. A booming oil and gas industry is also responsible for keeping the town on the map.

You can easily get your history fix at the Rock Springs Historical Museum and the Sweetwater County Historical Museum in nearby Green River. There you’ll find exhibits on everything from coal mining and the Union Pacific Railroad to early settlers and notorious outlaws, like Robert Leroy Parker (most commonly known as Butch Cassidy), who journeyed through the area over the years. Or, you can set out to discover remnants of bygone days as you explore the surrounding region with its numerous historic pioneer trails, fossil beds and petroglyphs.

One of the highlights of Sweetwater County is getting to see the wild horses that make their home in this corner of the state. These beautiful creatures run free and untamed, reminding visitors that the frontier spirit is still alive and well in our country. Though you can drive the Pilot Butte Wild Horse Scenic Loop on your own – a 23-mile route on an often rough road (reliable transportation is a must!) – the best way to view these magnificent beasts is via a guided excursion with Green River Wild Horse Tours & Eco Safaris.

Owner and guide Rich Nobles has extensive knowledge of the wild horses, as well as of their history and the high desert country they inhabit. Not only will you be able to see the horses and possibly other creatures such as pronghorn, coyotes, mule deer, hawks, eagles and more in their natural environment, but you’ll get a real taste of the scenery. Impressive vistas surround you at every turn as you navigate through a stark and unforgiving landscape of sandstone, shale, sagebrush and buffalo grass, dominated by White Mountain.

Nobles drives an Australian made Pinzgauer, or as he calls it, an “SUV on steroids.” It’s a rugged safaristyle vehicle with open air capabilities that allow passengers to get the best possible view of their surroundings. Some of the finest views in Wyoming are located along the Wild Horse Scenic Loop, with several panoramic overlooks of the area’s prominent features, such as Pilot Butte, a distinctive navigational landmark and Boar’s Tusk, a 400-foot-tall volcanic spire that acts as a sentinel to the vast Killpecker Sand Dunes. The Wyoming, Wind River and Uinta mountain ranges are also on display, along with the Overland Trail and Union Pacific Railroad corridors. You’ll be taken off-road, up and down steep embankments, as you keep an eye out for the horses and any other animals

35 51

that care to make themselves visible.

Meanwhile, Nobles will regale you with interesting facts and a collection of colorful tales. Never one to shy away from a controversial subject, he will also inject his personal and passionate opinions about the politics of the wild horse management situation and various environmental issues.

When the horses are spotted, there’s palpable excitement from the group.

Nobles tells us that the herd is a mix of different breeds, from thoroughbreds and quarter horses to Morgans and Curly horses. We keep our distance, not wanting to spook them, as we take ample opportunity of this marvelous Kodak moment.

Later, we spy a pair of old bachelor stallions making their way down to a watering hole. And then there’s another group on a nearby hillside, which Nobles explains is actually comprised of several small clusters,

36 52

each consisting of a stallion and his mares. Towards the latter part of our excursion, we come across a grouping adjacent to the road.

A few of the horses surround a small colt that is lying on the ground, protecting her as elephants do with their young. They part and move on to graze, and we get a full look at the little one before it rises in ungainly fashion and scampers off to join the others.

At Killpecker Sand Dunes, we marvel at one of nature’s largest sand boxes. Created via a combination of volcanic action and subsequent wind erosion, the dunes can reach heights of over 100 feet and run for over 100 miles from west to east. They are traveling sand dunes, constantly on the move, which gives the vegetation in this environment a real challenge. For recreation-seekers, the dunes provide a soft terrain suitable for a myriad of activities such as hiking, sand surfing or an

unforgettable match of beach volleyball. If you’re lucky, you might spot the herd of rare desert elk that roams across this unique landscape.

Nobles also includes a stop at the White Mountain Petroglyphs during our daylong tour. It’s an opportunity to see ancient artwork carved by the ancestors of present Plains and Great Basin Native Americans. The petroglyphs, of which there are hundreds, include drawings of elk, buffalo, horses, teepees and human figures. Many date to early times, about 200 years ago; others appear to be older and are estimated to be as much as 1,000 years old. Nobles

shows us a particular section of the rock with marks that appear to be hand holds. He notes a possible explanation for these indentations, telling us that Native American women might have created them during the childbirth process.

Another major highlight of Sweetwater County is Flaming Gorge. To get there, take the Flaming Gorge Scenic Byway, one of the most scenic routes in the country. The drive traverses a wide variety of dramatic landscapes from the high desert plains to the upper elevations of the Uinta Mountains.

It encircles the 91-mile-long Lake

Features Travel

which is also regarded by fishermen as trout heaven. If you’re hardy enough to come in the dead of winter, you’ll even be able to do some ice fishing!

Hikers, take heart, as there are miles of trails to give you a sense of the grandeur of the Flaming Gorge. One of the more popular walks is along Red Canyon Rim, where you’ll get great views of Red Canyon, a 1,700-feet-deep gorge carved by the Green River eons ago. The route follows the south side of the rim, providing many spectacular overlooks of the lake below. It’s easy to become mesmerized by the contrast between the red walls of the canyon and the blue/green color of the lake. Make sure to stop in at the Red Canyon Visitor Center, with its frontier history and wildlife exhibits, as well as its free interpretive programs for kids and families. Perched high upon the rocky cliffs of the gorge, the facility offers a million-dollar view of the immense canyon.

Flaming Gorge, crosses verdant forests and vast canyons carved by the Green River. Most of this picturesque area is in Wyoming, with only a small portion lying in neighboring Utah. Designated a National Recreation Area, Flaming Gorge is rich in wildlife and Western lore, and serves as a grand outdoor play arena, minus the crowds.

If water is your milieu, you’ll be in heaven, whether it’s on an exciting raft trip or a leisurely boat excursion. Traveling from one end of the lake to the other, you’ll pass through sections with stunning rock pinnacles and long stretching

beaches. As you make your way towards the south end, there are winding canyons with vibrantly-hued cliffs and lush forests. Big horn sheep graze the hillsides and scale the steep walls of the canyon, giving visitors pause as they stand in awe of these nimble creatures.

As for anglers, this area offers one of the most diverse fisheries in the world, with hundreds of waters within an hour’s drive of the gorge.

It’s a trophy trout destination, known for setting state records for Lake, Rainbow and Brown trout.

And let’s not forget about the Green River, below the Flaming Gorge Dam,

There are plenty of places to camp in and around the Flaming Gorge, as well as a number of lodges for those wishing additional comfort.

Red Canyon Lodge, where I had my stand-up paddleboard experience, is a top-rated establishment with a dose of rustic charm, offering private cabins, fine dining and plenty of activities to please all tastes and ages. The log cabins are custom-built and handcrafted, situated on the lodge’s peaceful lakeside setting.

Some folks simply sit on the porch content to gaze at the scenery during their stay, while others are active from dawn to dusk, taking advantage of the fishing and boating opportunities on the private lake or

heading down to the stables for a trail ride. The lodge rents all sorts of gear, including assorted watercraft and mountain bikes.

Clientele ranges from empty nesters to families, many who make their pilgrimage to the place year after year. It’s definitely a kid-friendly environment, where little ones have their own fishing hole to haul in a “big one” just steps away from the on-site restaurant with its madefor-children meal options.

Though it’s the wow factor that certainly impresses visitors to Sweetwater County, it’s also the opportunity the area offers them for rejuvenation and peace of mind that is of equal merit. Most important, however, it’s a place where treasured memories can be made.

If you go:

For more information about Sweetwater County, visit: www.tourwyoming.com www.redcanyonlodge.com www.greenriverwildhorsetours.com

37 53

world clas

Zebra will pamper y

from an intimate dinne

receptions on or of

704.442.9525

|

4521 SHARON ROAD

|

CH

s catering

your palate

er to corporate

ff premises

ARLOTTE NC

|

W W W. Z E B R A R E S T A U R A N T . N E T

Put a Pin in it A Stay at Miraval The Ultimate Gift to Yourself

By Debbie Stone

56

H

eights are just not my thing.

But, there I was dangling in a safety harness 40-feet off the ground. The group below, who had just moments ago hoisted me up to this point by pulling on a rope in tug-of-war style, yelled encouraging comments to me. The leader told me to breathe deeply, enjoy the beautiful scenery and set a personal intention before letting go of the rope clenched in my right hand. To be honest, my intention was to get down from this scary place as soon as possible because I knew if I spent any amount of time appreciating the desert landscape or tried to engage in some intense soul searching, I’d lose my nerve.

I had signed up for this activity, aptly named “A Swing and a Prayer,” because I wanted to put myself in a situation that would get me outside of my comfort zone. And as heights present a continuous challenge to me, the experience seemed tailormade to my needs.

When I finally let go, I screamed as my stomach dropped in rollercoaster fashion. It felt like the whole world was falling beneath me. I decided it was time for the prayer part of this activity. And then I began to swing in pendulum style from one pole to another. My legs were shaking and I had a white-knuckle grasp on the rope. The movement suddenly changed and sent me soaring in a wide circular formation. I forgot to mention that spinning is not my thing either!

Although I wanted to stop, I was urged to take a moment and relax, while letting go of first one hand on the rope, then the other. And

I reluctantly did, surprising myself by awkwardly leaning into something that resembled a backbend. As I contemplated the world from this pose, I was suddenly reminded of my childhood and the sense of pure joy and freedom that came from such simple pleasures like playing on the swings. Back on terra firma, with the group congratulating me on my accomplishment, I felt elated and proud. Yes, it was frightening and no, I’m not ready to audition for Cirque du Soleil, but it was also liberating to completely let go and exhilarate in the moment.

Celebrating life and one’s limitless potential is what it’s all about at Miraval, a well-known destination spa near Tucson, Arizona. This special retreat, nestled on 400 acres of idyllic land within the picturesque Santa Catalina Mountains, prides itself on its pioneering selfdiscovery and growth activities, not to mention its luxurious accommodations, deliciously healthy cuisine and state-of-the-art fitness and spa facilities. It’s a place to be inspired, rejuvenated, appreciated and motivated to focus on your emotional, spiritual and physical well-being.

There are many reasons why people come to Miraval. For some, it’s the need to get out of the rat race for some good old R&R, along with a hefty dose of pampering. Others view it as a chance to kick start a program of healthy habits. And then there are those who are eager to try new activities and challenge themselves in different ways. There are also individuals who come in search of help to deal with relationship or grief and loss issues.

57

Though each has his/her own purpose, they all share a commonality: the desire to do something good for themselves.

A stay at Miraval is the ultimate gift to yourself. And you can spend it anyway you wish. One of the most popular spots is the spa, where an extensive menu of services is delivered by practitioners with magic hands in serene indoor and outdoor sanctuaries. There’s everything from hot stone massage and anti-aging facials to mud wraps, prickly pear sugar scrubs and even acupuncture. One of my favorite treatments is Aqua Zen, a form of massage within a warm water pool.

The water invites complete relaxation and allows the body to be manipulated and stretched with greater freedom than traditional massage. The results are wonderful.

Stress and strain melt away and you are left a loosened and lighter being.

When you’re ready to leave spa heaven, you can opt to continue the bliss with a nap poolside or on the deck of your private casita. Or maybe you’d like to get your heart pumping a bit. If so, check out the Body Mind Center, where you’ll find classes in spinning, yoga, Pilates, kickboxing, dance, water aerobics and other body conditioning activities. It’s fun to try something new. I dropped in on a cardio drumming class and was surprised at the high-energy workout it gave me,

not to mention the pure joy I got from beating on the drums within a supportive and uplifting group setting. For the adventurous adrenaline junkies, there’s rock climbing, mountain biking, a challenge course and even a zipline experience.

When you wish to quiet your mind, there are guided meditation sessions offered at various times of the day.

One morning I started out with I Chi Flow, a class that incorporated Tai Chi movements in the water. The gentle flow of the movements combined with the warmth of the early morning sunlight and the sound of the birds chirping brought serenity to my soul and gave me positive energy to begin my day.

Another morning I opted to do a group hike in the surrounding desert landscape. Wild flowers and jack rabbits poked their heads up among the interesting shaped cacti. And even a colorful Gila monster showed up in this natural splendor, only to slither quickly into the brush.

If you are interested in outlets for self-expression, the spa also has you covered. Unleash your creative spirit or hone your artistic skills in sessions devoted to painting, weaving and photography. One of the more unique and newest experiences at Miraval is “An Unforgettable Canvas,” which encourages participants to use the side of a horse as their canvas to paint. Just as Native Americans did years ago to tell stories in symbols on the sides of their horses, workshop attendees have the opportunity to do the same. Horses are used as living, breathing canvases as a reminder for participants to stay present and grounded in the story-telling process.

Other self-discovery and growth activities come in the form of workshops taught by hand-picked professionals and distinguished experts on such topics as stress reduction, life balance, guided imagery, mindful eating, communication, grief and loss and intuitive living. And then there’s the Equine Experience, a Miraval Signature activity aimed at gaining greater self-awareness through sessions that involve working with specially selected horses. Wyatt Webb, founder and director of the program, is a wise old cowboy with much to say about the behavioral insight that can be gained from interacting with a horse. He believes that a person can begin to notice

Features

personal patterns of learned behavior that may be holding them back from the life they want to live.

“If it’s not working, then you need to make changes,” he says. “First you have to acknowledge that it’s not working. And then you have to decide to do something about it.

Determination of intent is important, but it means nothing unless you follow through.”

off, then stride toward my horse with confidence and determination to follow through on the action.

On the third try, I was successful.

Self-doubt, combined with my fears of horses and of failure, had gotten in the way. Webb reminded the group that the exercise is less about cleaning the horse’s hoof than “about cleaning or clearing out your head.”

I had chosen to take part in the Equine Experience because of the discomfort I feel around horses.

Once again, I wanted to push those boundaries and deal with my fears.

The first challenge was to scrape mud and manure from a horse’s hoof with a tool resembling a large crochet hook. My horse and I reached an immediate standoff on the first try. Though I pinched his lower right back leg repeatedly, as instructed, he ignored me. Webb told me to back

A session in the ring followed. Using body, breath and movement, each participant had to get a horse to walk, trot, change directions and then come to a complete stop. You weren’t allowed to talk or touch the horse in the process. To be successful in this endeavor, you can’t be a tightly wound vessel or allow your energy to overpower you -because you will convey this to the horse and it will most likely react adversely. “Horses only pick up two

59

GREAT CITIES

THE BEST ATTRACTIONS

SAVE MONEY. SAVE TIME. Atlanta Boston Chicago Dallas Houston New York City Philadelphia San Francisco Seattle Southern California Tampa Bay Toronto

Learn more or buy at citypass.com

things,” says Webb. “Is it safe or unsafe? Clear or unclear?”

Remembering to breathe deeply, the Miraval “mantra,” I calmed my nerves and miraculously was able to get the horse to follow my directions. It was definitely a “horse whisperer” moment and one for the memory books.

All this activity, fresh air and introspection do wonders to

stimulate the appetite. But, if you think you’ll be restricted to a Spartan diet simply because you’re at a spa, think again. Miraval’s award-winning cuisine is created with the belief that healthy ingredients can also mean exquisite flavor. Guests are encouraged to explore mindful eating and discover tasty, satisfying dishes that are moderate in calories and fat. For those interested in learning healthy

cooking tips and tricks, the spa offers a variety of instructive culinary workshops and cooking demos.

Mealtime at Miraval is a wonderful opportunity to connect and share experiences with others. Don’t worry if you come solo. You’ll be in good company, as there are others who have chosen to make this journey on their own.

61

Put A Pin In It!

Chickens and Chi

By Debbie Stone

I

confess I’ve never been a fan of chickens. They always seem like nervous, high strung birds, and their pecking and quick movements are unsettling to me. I would never have imagined that these creatures could be used in the realm of animal-assisted therapy. Dogs, yes. Horses, sure. But,

62

chickens? They couldn’t possibly bring a sense of calm and comfort to people. Then I was introduced to Blanco and his gang and something special happened.

At newly-opened Sunrise Springs Integrated Wellness Resort in Santa Fe, New Mexico, sister property to the venerable Ojo Caliente Mineral

Springs & Spa, animal interaction sessions are just one of the many experiential activities offered aimed at fostering optimal health and well-being.

Currently, these interactions involve canines and chickens, both of which reside on-site. Canine sessions

are with adult service dogs and puppies-in-training from Assistance Dogs of the West, an agency the resort has partnered with to help guests learn canine handling techniques and practice specific training activities to prepare the animals for being future assistance dogs, take walks with the dogs

Features

or simply enjoy an opportunity to cuddle with them. During my stay, I had the pleasure of spending time with a passel of five-week-old yellow Lab pups, who loved to play and then promptly curl up in my lap for a nap. Being around these adorable bundles of joy brought me enormous contentment, as well as channeled my inner child.

As for the chickens, the resort has about two dozen Silkies, who have taken up residence in a spacious covered enclosure. This breed is characterized by silky feathers, which make them appear like miniature fluff balls with tiny Uggs on their feet. They are very soft to the touch, have five toes, turquoise colored earlobes (how Santa Fe!) and a “walnut” comb. Silkies are known to be gentle birds who love company.

They like to chatter and to also make sweet purring and vibrationlike noises when they’re calm. This type of chicken loves nothing more than to raise a clutch of eggs, and as they are a magnanimous sort, they’re not picky about whose eggs they are. There are documented cases of Silkies raising other types of poultry, including ducklings and goslings, taking care of them as if they were their own.

I admit I was initially a bit apprehensive about entering the Silkies’ arena, but with encouragement from the resort’s horticulture and nature-based specialist Daniele Simmons, I gamely headed inside. Twenty-five chickens greeted me. Some came right up to me and curiously moved around my feet, as if sizing me up. Others

were busy eating either their feed or some veggies brought in from the garden.

Simmons invited me to sit on a chair and observe the creatures, while she talked about them. I learned about Blanco, the main rooster, who assumes the duty of keeping the others in their place. He thinks nothing of pecking at them if they are disturbing him or if they are trying to eat food he has claimed as his own. Then there’s Wilbur, the smallest of the bunch. As the runt, he was named after Wilbur in Charlotte’s Web. Lemon Drop is appropriately yellow in color. And Princess, who is always exquisitely groomed, has a royal moniker.

I began petting the Silkies, enjoying the feel of their soft feathers.

I laughed at their antics as they comically scratched around the dirt, then fed them a fresh cucumber, which they adored. Watching their behavior, I was able to pick up on some of their cues and subtleties relating to communication, teamwork and leadership. Finally, I let several take turns sitting on my lap. Their docile nature had a soothing effect on me and I could see how such an experience could lower stress and anxiety levels.

Being with these chickens provided me with an opportunity to slow down and reflect, something I need to do more often in my hectic life.

You’ll find serenity is a commodity in spades at Sunrise Springs. Nestled amid seventy acres of breathtaking natural beauty with towering cottonwood trees and spring-fed

63

64

Features ponds, the resort’s setting is ideal for nourishing body, mind and spirit.

The emphasis is on giving guests a place to relax and decompress in an authentic wellness environment, which blends both Eastern and Western therapeutic practices, and Native American teachings in its approach to well-being. Through a variety of experiential activities, guests can become more selfaware, while learning new skills and mindfulness techniques that help cultivate greater connection in their lives. The hope is that individuals will develop sustainable healthy living practices which allow them to thrive and experience life differently.

To assist you in these endeavors, the resort has a highly-credentialed team comprised of medical doctors, behavioral health counselors, acupuncturists, chiropractors, massage therapists, fitness and movement instructors and experiential programming staff. I offer kudos to these folks, as they are among the most compassionate and giving people I’ve had the pleasure of engaging with at any destination spa. They are knowledge and passionate about their work, and generous in their willingness to share it with others. During my stay, I sensed they really cared about me as an individual. It was akin to having a warm and benevolent light shined on me.

When guests arrive at Sunrise Springs, they are typically welcomed with a Native American traditional ritual that involves the use of sage.

It’s a ceremony that helps to cleanse and clear, while harmonizing and energizing oneself. Niccole Toral, who has both Native American and

South American roots, is Director of Experiential and Psychological Services at the resort. She explains how sage ha a lot of “ju-ju”– medicine healing energy.

You can walk the sacred medicine wheel, a grass and stone circle, in the center of the property, where the four quadrants represent the holistic self, invoking different qualities to emerge. Toral will also engage in some drumming, which she notes is the heartbeat of Mother Earth and keeps us in rhythm, reminding us of our ancestors. In closing, she asks guests to offer a bit of tobacco to the land, encouraging them to put an intention in their offering. The tobacco is viewed as a messenger or a transmitter.

Each guest works with staff to determine a schedule of focused experiential activities that are personalized to his/her therapeutic goals. Options include sessions in mindfulness meditation and yoga, animal interactions, therapeutic gardening, culinary classes, expressive arts, fitness and cultural and adventure activities. As nature is an important ingredient in the resort’s integrative wellness philosophy, you will also be encouraged to participate in some “nature bathing,” a practice inspired by the Japanese custom of “forest bathing.” Research suggests that spending even a few minutes walking among trees or in green spaces can improve mood and energy levels, while calming the nervous system.

Many of the resort’s guests lead busy and intense lives, often working high-power jobs that consume them with technology.

65

When they arrive at Sunrise Springs, they are encouraged to unplug so they can take an active role in their well-being. Overuse of electronic devices has been shown to contribute to social isolation, sleep problems, depression, anxiety and other health-related issues.

For some, it’s difficult to resist the temptation to check phones, email, texts, etc. But, after a day or two, the urge subsides, as the focus moves to tuning in to one’s senses and self-awareness.

As with all wellness-oriented properties, a spa is essential. The Integrative Therapeutic Spa (ITSPA) at Sunrise Springs combines the

66

expertise of an integrative medical clinic with the rejuvenating and restorative practices of a wellness spa.

Services range from nurturing massage, hydrating skin care and body treatments to nutritional assessments, behavioral healthcare, spiritual counseling and acupuncture and chiropractic sessions. I had an amazing “Ancient Echoes” treatment during my stay that utilized a variety of modalities and techniques. The therapy is based on East Indian head massage and is drawn from the ancient healing system of Ayurveda. I left feeling invigorated and knot-free after my

Features session. It was as if my body had been brought back into balance after having been off-kilter.

As for accommodations, you’ll have your choice of either a resortstyle guest room with a balcony overlooking the sacred medicine wheel or one of the resort’s twenty spacious and well-appointed casitas with their own private courtyard and gas fireplace. Rooms are decorated in a Southwest style, yet retain a minimalist feel without unnecessary distractions (no TVs or phones). The point is for guests to spend the majority of their time outside of their rooms, participating in the many activities available to them.

Dining at Sunrise Springs is a high point. Executive Chef Paul Novak, former Chef de Cuisine of the prestigious Geronimo Restaurant

in Santa Fe, works closely with local farmers to source seasonally available herbs, fruits and vegetables grown using organic practices.

He uses as many ingredients as are available from the resort’s own greenhouse and gardens, which are expected to expand in the coming year. Dishes include traditional New Mexico favorites plus a variety of seasonal selections. The focus is on providing nutrient dense food that’s also flavorful. Meals are healthy, not necessarily vegan or vegetarian, though if guests have specific preferences, the chef will gladly oblige.

A typical lunch would be fresh spring rolls filled with veggies or shrimp, accompanied by a bowl of delicious greens and a bowl of hearty soup. Dinner might be smoked

salmon on pumpernickel toast, cumin black bean soup, organic baby spinach salad, roasted root vegetables, Zuni chicken and carrot cake with lemon caramel sauce.

You won’t go hungry, and more important, you’ll get to learn the health benefits of the food you eat.

Evening activities can include such offerings as stargazing with telescopes, music performances and interactive wellness lectures, such as one I attended entitled, “Food as Medicine,” with holistic health coach and nutritionist Nikki White. White, who is author of Upgradeology: Upgrade Your Food, Upgrade Your Life, advocates choosing “clean” foods, which are not processed or altered from their original state.

She emphasizes eating what you love while opting for nourishing ingredients. And she believes it’s essential that people understand

what’s in their food so they can engage in “mindful eating.”

When your visit concludes, know that you are not being set adrift without ballast. Unlike some other destination spas, Sunrise Springs believes that support is key both during and even more important, after your stay. Their hope is that you can take what you’ve learned from your experience and integrate the knowledge into your daily life.

They provide an assortment of tools to take back with you and will continue the connection, if so desired, once you are back home. If you have questions or concerns, they want you to know they’ll be there for you to help you on your everevolving journey.

For more information on chickens and chi go to: www.sunrisesprings.com

67

la ferme de la lochère

bespoke culinary & wine holidays in Burgundy

with Chef Katherine Frelon (33) 672865609 la ferme de la lochère 6 rue de la lochere 21150 MARIGNY LE CAHOUET France QUOTE: LUXEBEAT

www.lafermedelalochere.com

Put A Pin In It! Big Ben Beckons

By Debbie Stone

I

had no control over my burro.

The spirited creature obviously had a mind of his own as he took off at a fast clip, then veered and attempted to squeeze between two of his friends. At one point my stirrups hooked onto those of another rider’s and we were locked leg to leg. Laughing uncontrollably, we bounced down the road like Siamese twins, linked together, eventually arriving at our destination: the tiny village of Boquillas, Mexico.

Easing off my animal in a most ungraceful way, I decided that burro riding did not rank among my favorite means of transportation. To

70

get to Boquillas, a border crossing is involved. It’s the shortest journey between two countries you’ll ever make, taking mere minutes. The Boquillas Border Crossing between the U.S. and Mexico reopened in 2013 after a closure of more than a decade.

This “pedestrian only” crossing allows visitors to go from a designated area of Big Bend National Park in Texas to Boquillas, Mexico, with the Rio Grande as the border. You’ll need to show your passport before hopping into a rowboat for the river crossing. If you’re lucky, you might get to meet Boquillas’ judge, Jaime Ureste, who

also doubles as an oarsman. Once you’re on the other side, burros and horses are waiting to take you the mile into town to your first stop, a nondescript white trailer which serves as the Mexican immigration office.

Boquillas, population 300 or so, is a humble village where the residents sell a variety of handicrafts and invite you to eat at one of the two available restaurants. To dine with a river view, opt for Jose Falcon, where the margaritas are made with Fresca and you can get a variety of typical Mexican dishes. The locals are eager to be your guide as you walk around the area, pointing out

Features

71

72

Features

the solar panel station, school, church and the few other sites of note. You’ll find people to be friendly and hospitable, though it’s difficult to ignore the poverty that’s prevalent in this economicallydepressed town.

Visiting Boquillas is just one of the many adventures that awaits visitors to Big Bend National Park.

Encompassing more than 800,000 acres of rugged mountains, rolling desert expanses and deep river canyons, the park is the king of the state’s national public areas. A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its range of elevations.

Its epic grandeur has created an almost mythic status among those

73

74

Features who find their way to this land of enchantment.

Located in far West Texas, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the TexasMexico border. It’s a long way from anywhere, but getting there can be part of the fun. If you’re flying, the closest airport is Midland/ Odessa. From there, you’ll have about a 200-mile drive to the park’s east entrance. Along the way, stop in Fort Stockton, if only to see Paisano Pete, one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. The town’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival and is one of the most photographed “birds” in the world.

You also might want to stop for an overnight in Marathon, a quaint high desert town that serves as the gateway to the park. Some folks make it their base as it’s centrally located to many of the

area’s attractions. There are a variety of lodging options in Marathon, including the renowned Gage Hotel, recently ranked the top hotel in Texas by Condé-Nast. This distinctive historical property has been designated a Texas treasure.

Each room is finely appointed with artifacts and authentic furnishings from the diverse cultures of West Texas.

Dining at the hotel’s 12 Gage Restaurant is a must. The awardwinning establishment offers Texasinspired specialties with a gourmet twist. In the upscale dining room, you’ll be surrounded by cowboy chic décor, while the outdoor patio with its fireplaces and fountains provides an intimate and romantic al fresco setting.

There’s also a full service spa, swimming pool and fitness center on site, as well as nearby Gage Gardens: 27 lush acres with lovely ponds, fountains, rose garden, vineyard, fruit orchard, native landscaped park, walking trail and nine-hole putting green. Eve’s Garden is another unique lodging

option in Marathon. This innovative organic B&B is constructed with papercrete, a light-weight, alternative building material comprised of a mixture of recycled paper, sand, clay and cement. The place is a remarkable feat that’s been a labor of love for owner Kate Thayer, along with her son Noble Baker and daughter-in-law Alaine Berg, as well as former construction manager, Clyde Curry.

Large indoor organic gardens bloom with roses, bougainvillea and countless flowers, while the seven distinct, handcrafted guest rooms open to a central covered courtyard with a pond and tea room. Walls are painted in contemporary Mexican colors that give the space a bright, joyful aura, and local artwork is incorporated within the decor.

There’s even a solar-heated lap pool and a stargazing deck to take in those memorable starry Texas nights.

For those who wish to stay right in Big Bend, there’s one lodge in the park, as well as several campgrounds. The Chisos Mountain

75

Lodge, located in the Chisos Basin, is a well-situated, full-service property. From there you can access many popular hiking trails and major sites of interest. To orient yourself, make sure to stop at the Panther Junction Visitor Center, where you’ll find friendly park rangers ready to answer all your questions.

They’ll steer you in the direction of the perfect hike. With over 200 miles of trail, it’s helpful to get some guidance. There are also several interactive exhibits at the center which provide an overview of geology and natural and cultural histories of the park, as well as an introductory movie that does a commendable job of showcasing the park’s bold landscape.

another short hike for an overlook of the basin area. For a hike with elevation, take the Lost Mine trail. It’s of medium distance and difficulty and provides a maximum of views, but no mine. The trail gets its name from a legend that suggests that a secret mine existed in the area. Story has it that workers were blindfolded before being brought to the mine to work and so could not disclose the location of the mine. Later, they were supposedly killed by local Comanche, and the mine closed up to hide its location.

As you’re hiking, you’ll spot Casa Grande Peak, and once you’re at the top, you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent vista of Juniper Canyon and the South Rim.

Chisos Mountains Basin, nestled among the stunning, cloudkissed Chisos Mountain peaks, is in the heart of Big Bend. These spectacularly eroded mountains rise nearly 8,000 feet and are akin to an island in the desert. If you have limited time, take a walk along the Window View Trail for easy access to mountain vistas and a memorable sunset view. The Basin Loop is

Another highlight in the park is the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.

Big Bend’s geologic splendor is on display via the many scenic overlooks and exhibits along this route. Of note is Castolon Peak,with its multiple layers revealing millions of years of volcanic events, and Mule Ears, a formation that perfectly fits its name. Continue the drive to famed Santa Elena Canyon,

76

Features

77

78

Features where towering limestone cliffs rise 1,500 feet above the Rio Grande.

One feels small and insignificant against these massive walls which appear as sentinels within this unique environment.

Big Bend boasts numerous ecotones, formed by river, desert and mountains. This variety results in an array of habitats which support more species of birds, plants, butterflies, bats, reptiles and cacti than any other national park in the country. The park is a well-known birders’ paradise, as it’s along a migration route and ideal for bird diversity throughout the year.

People come from all over to spot the Colima warbler, the rock star of birds in Big Bend. The only place this bird is found within the U.S. is in the Chisos Mountains.

During my stay in the park, the creatures that were most prevalent seemed to be roadrunners and javelinas, both of which are fascinating to observe. Running at speeds up to 20 mph, the roadrunner pursues lizards and small rattlesnakes, which it pecks to death with blows of its beak.

The javelina, though pig-like in

appearance, is a peccary, and not a member of the swine family as I had previously assumed. One walked right in front of our group as we walked down a trail at Boquillas.

It didn’t even bother to give us a glance, preferring to go about its business without acknowledging our presence. I remarked to my companions that the creature looked very primordial with Old World origins.

After a day on the trail, a sunset soak in Langford Hot Springs is the perfect way to relax. This historic geothermal spring is adjacent to the Rio Grande and its naturally heated water is known for its healing powers. Locals and visitors have sworn by it since the baths were first developed in 1906.

Though Langford’s once impressive bathhouse is long gone, the spring is still contained by the foundation remains of the structure. Soaking in the 105 degree water felt heavenly and of course the unparalleled scenery was a bonus. To top it off, as we left, there was a double rainbow, followed by a glorious sunset that lit up the sky with intense hues.

79

Activities not only abound in Big Bend, but within the nearby communities of Lajitas and Terlingua; both destinations are rich in Old West history. Located in the lowland desert between the National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, these towns offer plenty of lodging and dining options, along with a host of outdoor adventures from mild to wild. A trail ride with Lajitas Stables, for example, will take you into Big Bend Ranch State Park through arroyos and along canyon rims, to Lajitas Mesa where the territorial views are striking.

The horses climb up and down steep rocky paths like sure-footed mountain goats. Opt for a half-day ride with lunch and you’ll be treated to a smorgasbord of smoked chicken, black bean salad or “Texas caviar” as the locals call it, cheese, fruit, olives and other assorted goodies.

The trail guides are knowledgeable about the area and will regale you with historical and geological information, as well as common horse sense – something I always need!

For a different perspective of the area and another unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend, take a river trip with Far Flung Adventures in Terlingua.

Water flow conditions and time of year, as well as length of trip, will dictate which section of the Rio Grande you will raft. Rest assured, it doesn’t really matter where you go, as the scenery along this mighty waterway is magical. You’ll be wowed by the narrow, shadowy canyons and gigantic, steep walls, and if you’re lucky, you might see or hear red-tailed hawks as they soar and scream high above the rocks.

Look for all the turtles sunning themselves on rocks at the river’s edge.

Lajitas is also home to the Lajitas Golf Resort, a 27,000-acre property featuring a world class 18-hole course, spa, pool, zipline, shooting range, equestrian center, shops, restaurants and more. I found out the hard way that I’m definitely not Annie Oakley when I tried out the resort’s “Cowboy Action Shoot.”

Though I’d been to a sporting clay skeet shooting facility once years ago, I’d never handled a gun with live ammo before, and it was very daunting.

Each participant is given a pistol, rifle and double barrel shotgun to use on targets that have been set up within a façade of an old Western town dubbed “Stargazer Springs.” Safety and proper handling technique was the priority at all

80

times, but I still felt nervous, which I’m sure affected my ability to shoot with any amount of accuracy. I quickly got used to the instructor telling me my shots were too high, too low, too far to the right or to the left. On the rare occasion I was successful, I attributed it to just plain luck, as I had no idea how it happened.

While you’re in Lajitas, I recommend making a courtesy visit to the mayor, as this will be one encounter with a politician I guarantee you’ll never forget. The illustrious Clay

Features Henry III currently serves in this office. He is a beer drinking goat – third in a line of others of his breed – who was elected mayor of the town. His slate of opponents included a three-legged dog and a wooden Indian. The election was “bought,” as in order to vote, you had to pay a buck for the candidate of your choice. Story has it that Clay Henry regularly breaks out of his pen and corners his constituency in pursuit of his favorite beverage.

When we visited the eminent mayor, he was eating and not available for interviews!

The nearby town of Terlingua is another quirky and fun destination that often flies under the radar.

Many folks are unaware that the town is the site of two distinguished chili cook-offs; the Chili Appreciation Society International and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler World Chili Championships. Over 10,000 “chiliheads” participate in these competitions. In addition to its chili contest reputation, Terlingua also gets props for having its own ghost town. The Terlingua Ghost Town has the largest concentration of

mining architecture in the region dating back to the early 1900s, now restored as shops, restaurants and homes. Guided tours of the area are available with the opportunity to learn about a place where “plumbing is optional, the sky serves as the water district and electricity is something you provide for yourself.”

Nearby, the Terlingua Cemetery offers a glimpse into the past, when mining was arduous work amid such a primitive landscape. Wooden crosses mark stone-covered graves of people killed in mining accidents

and the influenza epidemic of 1918.

If you happen to be in Terlingua for Dia de los Muertos, or the Day of the Dead, the cemetery is the place to be. Locals decorate the graves, create elaborate altars, light candles and gather together to break bread in a community feast.

Many individuals adorn themselves in costumes fitting the occasion. It’s a traditional celebration marked by beauty, solemnity and peace.

For more information on all things Big Bend visit: www.visitbigbend.com

81

Put a Pin in it!

Charleston Woos Visitors with Sultry Southern Charms

By Debbie Stone

I

t’s impossible to be immune to the allure of Charleston. The city oozes and drips charm, overwhelming your senses with its intoxicating ambiance, gracious Southern hospitality, colorful history and rich culture. I was prepared to like Charleston before my visit, based purely on the continuous travel pub awards it receives for “America’s Prettiest Place,” “America’s Most Mannered City” and “#1 U.S. City.” But I was taken aback

84

at the school girl infatuation I felt once I got there. To say I was besotted and smitten with the place would be an understatement. My attraction to the atmosphere and environment was instant and magnetic.

Charleston woos visitors with the rustle of Palmetto fronds in the ocean air and the delicious fragrance of Magnolia trees. It’s a city set in a garden full of cinnamon crepe

myrtles and Lady Banks rose vines with stately antebellum homes that sit behind wrought iron gates and meticulously tended flower boxes.

History seeps from the city’s cobblestone streets and the nearly 4,000 pre-Civil War dwellings that are preserved and cherished by local residents.

The best way to get a handle on Charleston’s past is to take Bulldog Tours’ Charleston Stroll, an

informative and entertaining walking tour, given from the point of view of a local who will make the town’s history come alive. Your guide will regale you with stories dating from 1670 through the Civil War or the “War of Northern Aggression,” as it is commonly referred to in the South, to the present day. It’s an adventure into the past where you’ll learn about the events that shaped this fascinating city.

were drawn to Charleston, such as the French and the British, and each brought their cultural traditions along with them when they arrived.

There were also pirates and sailors who made their way to this coastal settlement, adding a rough and rogue element to the scene. And due to the slave trade, the Africans were part of this eclectic mix.

Landowners at the time viewed the slaves as essential, due to the area’s dependence on an agricultural economy – an economy that made Charleston the wealthiest city in the region. Over time, the town became the Sodom and Gomorrah of the South, with a reputation for being “party central.” Today, Charlestonians will tell you that their city is still a lively place that needs no excuse for festivity.

For those who wish to get their dose of local lore via non-ambulatory means, there’s the ever-popular, horse-drawn Palmetto Carriage Tour, where you’ll clip clop along the main streets, taking in the sights of those “Gone with the Wind” times in bygone style. Among the many buildings of interest in this historical mecca are a number of homes available to tour, such as the Edmonston-Alston House, circa

1825, with incredible views of the Charleston Harbor. It was from this place that General P.T. Beauregard watched the bombardment of Fort Sumter, which signaled the start of the Civil War. An original print of the Ordinance of Secession is among the home’s most notable antiques.

Another stately residence, the Heyward-Washington House or “Charleston’s Revolutionary War House,” was owned by Thomas Heyward Jr., a signer of the

Declaration of Independence, and features a lovely formal garden with plants popular in the late 18th century. One of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings is the Nathanial Russell House. Built in 1808, the home is adorned with elaborate plaster ornamentation and has a stunning free-flying staircase, as well as a joggling board. This uniquely Charleston invention has been a part of Lowcountry life since the early 1800s and can still be seen

Founded as a colony by eight Englishmen who were given the land

by Charles II in appreciation for helping him get back on the throne, Charleston was initially dubbed Oyster Point due to being built on an oyster bank. In the early years, fear of Spanish invasion caused residents to build a wall around the city for protection. The medieval fortresslike structure lasted for one hundred years before it was finally taken down. Different groups of people

85

on porches, piazzas and in gardens around the area. It’s similar to a rocking chair, but in the shape of a bench, and was supposedly created for a woman suffering from rheumatism.

Additional historically significant buildings in town include the old Dock Street Theatre, America’s First Theatre, the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon and the Powder Magazine. The latter is the oldest public edifice in the Carolinas and once stored the firepower crucial for defending Charleston. You’ll also notice dozens of churches in the city, as well as hear their bells, which explains another one of Charleston’s monikers: “The Holy City.” On famed Meeting Street, there’s St. Michael’s Church, the oldest church in Charleston. The ground floor consists of private pews that must be bought by a family to sit within, complete with their own separate door. On the second floor, there are open pews for those of more modest means. St. Phillip’s Episcopal Church, on Church Street, has had an active congregation since the founding of Charleston, and the French Huguenot Church, also with an active congregation, has an annual service conducted in French.

At the historic Circular Congregation Church, visitors can experience the sounds that define Charleston, including gospel, Gershwin, jazz, Civil War camp songs and light classics in the crowd-pleasing production, “The Sound of Charleston.”

86

If you’re a museum-goer, you might want to pop into the Old Slave Mart Museum or the Postal Museum. Make City Hall another one of your stops if only to take a peek inside the council chambers where portraits of famous folks line the walls, including one of George Washington that will make you chuckle upon closer

examination. Spend some time ambling along The Battery, where antique cannons line up and face out to sea, as if ready to defend Charleston at a moment’s notice.

Created as the first line of the city’s defense, The Battery is now a popular riverfront park. Its seawall promenade offers great views of

Fort Sumter, Castle Pinckney and Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse, as well as some of the most lavish houses in the entire city. These architectural gems with their massive columns and spacious verandas were built by 18th century plantation owners as summer retreats from the oppressive inland heat. You’ll note that a few of

the historic houses have finials on their walls, which are actually the ends of earthquake bolts that run through the building. They were put in after the 1886 earthquake, which destroyed half of downtown Charleston. The bolts are there to keep the house together, ready for the next seismic eruption.

Other homes display the Charleston Single House style of architecture, distinctive for being one-room-wide with the narrow end of the building facing the street. Two-story verandas, called “piazzas” stretch down the long side. Such residences were well-suited to the hot, humid local climate, as they offered welcome cross-ventilation in the days before air conditioning. You’ll probably also observe that some of the houses in Charleston are painted a specific shade of blue, called “Haint Blue,” to confuse evil spirits or “haints’ and keep them at bay.

One of the most photographed

streets in town is Rainbow Row, dubbed as such for the exterior pastel colors of the houses. The cotton candy hues are said to have represented the items sold in the ground floor stores and warehouses of the late 1800s style buildings.

Pink was for pork, green was for veggies, yellow for grains and blue signified seafood. It’s a virtual rainbow that elicits the welldeserved oohs and aahs from the many lookie-loos.

A popular attraction for visitors is

87

the City Market, the oldest public market in the country. Originally a meat market, the mostly open-air venue is now home to an array of artisans selling unique Lowcountry crafts such as sweetgrass baskets made by the Gullah people, descendants of plantation slaves in South Carolina and Georgia. These beautifully crafted coiled baskets are an example of African cultural heritage transported across the Atlantic by enslaved Africans, who used them during the planting and harvesting of rice and cotton. The craft is handed down from generation to generation

88

and is usually learned during childhood.

It requires enormous patience and creativity, as there are no set patterns, requiring each artist to develop his/her own style. You can watch the Gullah women and men weave the baskets as you walk through the market.

When you’ve shopped till you dropped and your stomach reminds you that it needs nourishment, you’ll be in for a treat. Food takes star billing in Charleston, a city with over 150 restaurants and numerous award-winning chefs. It can be overwhelming, however, when it

Features extensive selection of chilled seafood cocktails.

For an overview of Charleston’s food scene, I’d recommend taking Bulldog Tours’ Savor the Flavors Tour, which will introduce you to the area’s varied culinary influences, from Gullah and Native American to French, African and British. You’ll walk, talk and taste your way through the city, sampling tasty specialties from local restaurants, markets, bakeries and other culinary landmarks, as your guide explains the evolution of Charleston’s cuisine over the past 300-plus years. No need for lunch if you take this tour, as you’ll get plenty of goodies to sample along the way. And your sweet tooth will definitely be satisfied, too, with opportunities to try pralines, Charleston Benne wafers and, of course, the proverbial sweet tea that so many Southerners can’t live without.

No trip to Charleston is complete without a visit to one of the area’s fabled plantations: Middleton Place, Magnolia or Drayton Hall. It’s a colonial era Lowcountry experience that gives you a glimpse into the lifestyle of the land barons and their belles. Middleton Place, for example, is home to America’s oldest landscaped gardens. Known as one of South Carolina’s most enduring icons, these enchanting and graceful gardens or garden “rooms” are laid out with precise symmetry and balance, leading to a climactic view of the well-known Butterfly Lakes and the winding Ashley River beyond.

Owner Henry Middleton served as the second President of the First Continental Congress and his son Arthur was a signer of the Declaration of Independence. The main house is a museum of rare family furniture and portraits, while the stable yards are full of craftspeople demonstrating the skills once performed by slaves. comes to narrowing down this unrivaled selection. Just know that you really can’t go wrong no matter where you go. Seafood reigns supreme in the Lowcountry, from steam ‘em and eat ‘em shrimp to Carolina crab prepared a dozen different ways. And if you’re an oyster lover, you’re in good company, as they are found on practically every menu in one form or another.

Dixie Supply Bakery & Café, a hole-in-the-wall eatery featured in Southern Living, is known for its tomato pie, creamy stone ground

grits, bacon bourbon pecan pie and sweet potato cornbread. Charleston Crab House, another favorite dining establishment and watering hole, has been serving local seafood for twenty years. Its Lowcountry shrimp, collard greens, Carolina lump crab cakes, grits and melt-in-yourmouth hush puppies are just a few of the restaurant’s popular dishes.

Fleet Landing is another favorite.

The building it’s housed in used to be the home of the Cooper River Ferry before being taken over by the U.S. Navy. In 2003, it became a restaurant with prime waterfront

location, serving shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage, fresh yellowfin tuna, okra fries, seafood gumbo, fried oysters with Southern Comfort BBQ sauce and crispy whole fried Southern flounder with apricot glaze. For your meal’s finale, try the key lime pie or decadent white chocolate bread pudding. One of the best meals I had during my stay was at Amen Street Fish & Raw Bar, a casually hip place serving up such specialties as She Crab soup with sherry, pan roasted wreckfish, popcorn rice, shrimp corndogs and fried green tomatoes, along with an

Throughout your stay in this sultry gem of a city, you’ll find yourself continually embraced by the hospitality of its residents.

Charlestonians are genteel folks who are proud of their history and culture, and they are always more than happy to share it with visitors.

And if you ask politely, you might just get them to tell you the secrets of their slow, congenial lifestyle.

If you go:

For all things Charleston, contact the Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau at: 800-774-0006 or www.explorecharleston.com

89

d i s c o v e r c h a r l e v o i x ’s h i d d e n g e m

r e s e rvat i o n s 1 800 441 1414 fairmont.com/richelieu

Why settle for ordinary when you can experience the extraordinary.

Savour the rich flavours of Québec’s unrivalled Charlevoix region in an idyllic setting.

Whether it’s Sunday Brunch at Le Saint-Laurent Restaurant or award-winning gastronomy at Le Charelvoix — our beautiful dining rooms overlooking the St. Lawrence River — the innovative menus showcase the best local products. Extraordinarily delicious in every way!

FA I R M O N T L E M A N O I R R I C H E L I E U

|

HÔTEL

~

CASINO

~

S PA

~

GOLF

Put a Pin in it

By Debbie Stone

T

o say that Carmel-by-the-Sea is dog-friendly is an understatement. The famed California central coast town, rated the #1 Dog Friendly Town in America, welcomes man’s best friend with open arms.

Pet owners and their canines can dine together al fresco on many of the local restaurants’ patios, and numerous stores have water bowls outside their doors, making it convenient to satisfy Fido’s thirst as you stroll the streets. Snacks are also readily on hand as shopkeepers happily dispense doggy treats to well behaved canines. At Carmel Beach, you and your pup have more than enough space to roam, sans leash. Come nighttime, caninefriendly accommodations abound among the forty plus boutique inns, B&Bs and distinctive hotels. At the Cypress Inn, for example, which is partly owned by ardent animal lover/ actress Doris Day, pet owners can bring their furry pals into their hotel rooms, enjoy happy or “yappy” hour, doggy turn-downs and even high tea together in the lobby. It’s a veritable who’s who of breeds, sizes and personalities, and surprisingly everyone gets along – four-legged

92

creatures as well as two!

adorn most houses.

You’ll find plenty to do in this world-renowned destination, with or without Fido at your side. Though only one square mile, tiny Carmel-bythe-Sea has evolved into quite the hot spot with big-city offerings of art, theater, music and dining. The best way to explore the community is to abandon your car and experience it on foot. You’ll probably get lost once or twice, but that’s half the fun, plus it’ll help you discover some of the town’s quirky traits.

You might also observe there aren’t any chain restaurants or chain stores in town. And if you plan to wear high heels that are more than two inches in height or with a base of less than one square inch, city law requires you to get a permit from City Hall.

This rule, however, is not enforced by local police, but is on the books due to the uneven, cobbled surface of the pavement and perhaps as protection against possible lawsuits.

Up until the late 1980s, there was even a prohibition against selling and eating ice cream on public streets.

Thank one-time mayor Clint Eastwood for overturning this unpopular ordinance. Though he no longer serves in this political capacity, the veteran actor/director/ producer still maintains a presence in the area as one of the owners of the Carmel Mission Ranch Hotel & Restaurant.

As you walk around this picturesque enclave, you’ll note an absence of addresses, parking meters or streetlights, as well as sidewalks outside of the downtown commercial area. Blame it on Carmel’s founding fathers, who nixed the practice of house-to-house mail delivery, not wanting to see their village become urbanized. To this day, residents must get their mail from post office boxes at the local post office. As for getting directions, visitors receive cross streets and descriptive landmarks or they’re told to look for the often legendary names that

Wandering through town, you’ll quickly realize that Carmel-by-theSea doesn’t appear to be laid out in an organized manner. It’s a rabbit warren with its meandering passageways and hidden courtyards

– 42 in total. This, too, was purposely done by design nearly a century ago. The intent of developers James Franklin Devendorf and Frank H. Powers was to create a bohemian village - a retreat for artists, writers and professors – that was truly pedestrian friendly.

Supposedly, only a few blocks in the one-mile square area are without passageways connecting one street to another midway. There are even cutaways in Ocean Avenue, the town’s “main drag,” allowing people to pass through the planted center divide.

Each of the passageways and courtyards have their own distinct personality and special flair, adorned by wrought-iron railings, lanterns, intricate woodwork and Spanish tiles. Discovering these nooks and crannies is akin to being on a treasure hunt, where pleasurable surprises await in the form of eclectic shops, colorful galleries and intimate cafes. Those of particular note include La Rambla Court, framed by a 1920s stucco building with wooden stairs, handsome wrought-iron light fixtures and iron grillwork at the windows and

Features

Stroll Sip and Savor the Delights of Storied Carmel-by-the-Sea balconies; the Tudor-style Court of the Golden Bough, once the site of the Golden Bough Theatre; Court of the Fountains, a mecca of antiques, art, restaurants, spas and stores surrounding a lovely central fountain; and El Paseo Courtyard, an enclave covered in terra-cotta tile where you’ll find a whimsical sculpture of two figures who are in the act of curtsying and bowing to one another. A nearby plaque credits the 1928 work to artist, Jo Mora.

One of my favorite passageways, Secret Garden, is filled with stone statues, wind chimes, fountains and an array of plants. You enter on one street and come out on another, at Pilgrim’s Way, the town’s cherished community bookstore.

If you prefer some narration during your exploration, sign up for a tour with Carmel Walks. The highlyacclaimed guided walks take you through the various pathways and courtyards, as well as by awardwinning gardens, historical buildings

and enchanting storybook cottages.

Your guide will regale you with information about Carmel’s roots and its illustrious characters such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Jack London and Robinson Jeffers, as well as its quaint customs. You’ll also learn why the city is considered an architectural jewel, featuring French, English, Austrian and American Craftsman influences.

Visitors are most enamored with Hugh Comstock’s “Dollhouse Tudor” homes, complete with rolled eaves, steeply pitched roofs, rounded doors and elfin stone chimneys. Such gingerbread cottages, as the often photographed Tuck Box teahouse and the iconographic Hansel House, make one feel as if he/she has been plunked down in the middle of a fairytale. Tourists are also smitten with Michael J. Murphy’s little Victorians with Craftsman embellishments that dot the town.

Back in the 1920s when Murphy sold his homes, these dwellings went for

93

about $100, lot included. These days, they’re worth millions.

Other renowned architects, including Frank Lloyd Wright and Frank Wynkoop also made their mark on Carmel. Wright’s Clinton Walker House is built on a ragged jetty on Carmel Beach and resembles the prow of a ship. This organic structure, which the architect called his “cabin on the rocks,” is wrapped in indigenous Carmel stone, and its terrace and living room jut out into scenic Carmel Bay. The Butterfly House, designed by Wynkoop, is perched on the rocks almost at the water’s edge, looking very much like its winged namesake. Located on Scenic Drive, these homes and others in the area boast a postcard setting comprised of a pristine white sand beach, craggy cliffs and gnarled Cyprus trees.

As a longtime art colony and haven for artists of all persuasions, the town is a magnet for art aficionados who relish touring the dozens of galleries in existence. The Carmel Art Association is also worth mentioning, as it is the second oldest art cooperative in the country. Founded in 1927, it showcases the work of more than 100 professional local artists. And then there’s the Carmel Sunset Cultural Center, a state-of-the-art performing arts center bringing a wide range of world-class music, theatre and dance productions. The building, which began as a public school in 1926, is notable for its stunning Gothic architecture and incredible acoustics.

When it comes to dining, Carmel-bythe-Sea is heaven for gourmands and

94

for those who simply appreciate a great meal in a memorable ambiance.

There are many high quality establishments, featuring a range of international, regional and local cuisines, which benefit from their proximity to the abundance of fresh ingredients provided by the Monterey Bay and Salinas Valley. To get a good overview of what the town offers, join one of Carmel Food Tours’ guided culinary and wine walking experiences. Owner Staci Giovino, a self-confessed foodie, started the company in 2012 with the desire to help visitors and Carmel residents alike enjoy the best “off-the-beaten-path” food and cultural experience possible. She researched the most interesting and delicious options available in the community, while studying the history that makes this locale so creative and vibrant.

On Giovino’s Carmel-by-the-Sea Gourmet Food Tour, you’ll sample specialties from seven unique eateries, gourmet food stores and wine tasting rooms, while getting to interact with chefs, restaurant owners and wine specialists.

Highlights include Braised Kobe Beef and Polenta Cake at legendary Anton & Michel; Caprese Salad at the rustically chic Affina Food and Wine;

Features Spinach Gnocchi at Casanova’s, purportedly Carmel’s most romantic restaurant with its authentic Van Gogh’s table; and North African Lamb Meatballs at Terry’s Lounge in the Cypress Inn. Olive oils and balsamic vinegars are the focus at Trio Carmel, where your taste buds come alive with such combos as cinnamon and pear infused balsamic with a blood orange oil or lemon and mushroom balsamic with mushroom and sage oil. Caraccioli Cellars gets top marks for its sparkling wines, particularly its 07’ Brut Cuvee. The final stop on the tour is Lula’s Chocolates, most popular for its Sea Salt Caramels among other decadent delights.

technique. John, who is also a licensed massage therapist, did wonders for my “travel knots.” I left rejuvenated and recharged, ready to discover more treasures in this celebrated seaside village.

If you go:

For all things Carmel: www.carmelcalifornia.com.

If wine is your thing, make sure to take the self-paced, self-guided Wine Walk, which visits fourteen tasting rooms. Wine Passports are available at the Carmel Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center, allowing you up to four one-ounce pours at your choice of any nine of the fourteen establishments. Most of the wines you will sample come from small lot estates, family-run and sustainably operated wineries in the region.

It’s easy to unwind in this village by the sea, but if you need any assistance, there’s always a trip to the day spa for a relaxing massage or body treatment. You won’t go wrong at top-rated Kush Day Spa, where owners John and Monica Jertberg have created a tranquil haven tucked away in one of the town’s most serene courtyards. I highly recommend the Warm Stone Massage, where heated stones are placed on your body and incorporated in the massage

95

S C A R T S School of culinary arts With french master chef hervĂŠ laurent

Graduates' placement is our success!

www.scarts.com.sv

Brand your voice to build your business.

Radiocentrix, a new media company, with expertise in audio-broadcasting. We serve the mHealth sector as well as other industries. Our eLearning expertise supports the training and development needs of our clients. Our product line includes the popular audio products Voice Tattoos(SM) and Audio Avatars (SM) and Pocket Podcasts.

Talk to us when you need others to listen.

www.Radiocentrix.com

Put A Pin In It!

Bewitching Baja

By Debbie Stone

98

Features

I

’ve seen many Oscar-worthy productions in my life, but perhaps the most memorable was performed by a pod of gray whales at Lopez Mateos in the Sea of Cortez. Our panga, or small boat, was surrounded by these magnificent creatures as they spyhopped, spouted, rolled over and displayed their distinctive flutes to an audience of starstruck onlookers.

The dramatic show reached its climax when several of the moms proudly brought their seven-weekold calves to the side of our craft and we reached out to touch them.

It was pure magic and I like to believe that both whales and humans shared in the joy of this incredibly special moment together.

While whale watching is definitely one of the highlights of a trip to Baja California, there are so many other noteworthy experiences to be had in this unique region of Mexico.

Located in the northwest section of the country, Baja California is an 800-mile narrow peninsula that separates the Pacific Ocean from the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez. Despite proximity to the U.S. and rapid growth in tourism, the vast majority of the area has remained a wild and untamed paradise with an air of isolation that sets it apart from the rest of Mexico. Graced with mesmerizing desert landscapes, lush oases and rich marine life, Baja is an enticing destination that begs to be

explored in a myriad of ways.

The optimal scenario is to ply the waters in a boat, allowing you to appreciate the beauty of the sea and its vibrant life, while also offering opportunities to enjoy adventures on shore. Aboard Pacific Catalyst II’s M/V Westward, passengers spend time discovering both milieus from the comfort of a treasured wooden vessel. The company’s eleven-day Baja and the Sea of Cortez trip gives travelers the best of both worlds.

And with only eight passengers and a crew of four, you are guaranteed to have an intimate experience with like-minded companions.

Designed by Northwest Naval

architect, L.E. “Ted” Geary, the Westward is modeled after a salmon cannery tender and constructed around a 1923 Atlas engine. It was launched in 1924 as the flagship of the Alaska Hunting and Cruising Company and pioneered hunting, fishing and adventure travel in remote regions of Washington, Alaska and British Columbia. Over the years, the Westward served an esteemed clientele, including such well-known personalities as Bing Crosby, Walt Disney, John Wayne, E.F. Hutton, George Eastman and Marjorie Merriweather Post.

In the mid-70s, the boat was purchased by Donald and Anna Louise Gumpertz and moved to Los

99

Angeles, where it began cruising the world, doing a 47,000-mile circumnavigation of the globe.

Later, Hugh Reilly bought the Westward and returned it to the Pacific Northwest to resume her career as a charter and expedition vessel in Southeast Alaska.

Today, the boat is owned by Bill and Shannon Bailey, who run Pacific Catalyst II, an adventure travel business that operates small ship cruises in the Pacific Northwest, Southeast Alaska and Baja. The couple also own the M/V Catalyst, another historic craft that had its beginnings as the University of Washington’s first oceanographic research vessel back in 1932.

Captain Bill views himself as a “steward” of an important piece

100

of history and believes he has a responsibility to preserve a legacy of the past. He says, “I want to keep the old boats going. Besides, I can’t think of another job I’d rather be doing. I have the best cubicle on the planet.”

The Westward is still powered by her original Atlas engine and is listed with the U.S. National Register of Historic Places for her contributions to maritime history.

The vessel has recently been completely upgraded and renovated with an eye to preserving the style and décor of its bygone roots. The Westward is very comfortable, with four staterooms, each containing a double and a single bunk, settee, sink, toilet, shower and closet.

Though small, the cabins are cozy

and contain the basic necessities.

The rest of the boat consists of a salon, dining area, kitchen, outside deck, engine room, wheelhouse and crew quarters, which are located down below.

Trips either begin in La Paz and end in Loreto or go in the reverse direction, but the exact itinerary of specific stops along the way can fluctuate, depending on weather conditions, interests of the passengers, wildlife observation opportunities and other factors.

The crew’s mantra regarding this aspect of flexibility is simply, “It’s the plan until it changes.” With that attitude, it’s easy to adapt to whatever situation arises. And with its small capacity, the boat can enter areas that larger crafts

cannot, allowing passengers to explore hidden locales in great depth.

During the day, you’ll spend time viewing the many species of birds and sea creatures from the boat’s deck. It’s very common to see a pod of bottlenose dolphins racing alongside the vessel or soaring mobula rays jumping out of the water and putting on an astonishing aerobatic displays, only to land with a loud bang as they belly-flop back into the sea. Frigatebirds, Great Blue Herons, Heermman’s Gulls, Grebes, Petrels, Hawks and a countless number of birds grace the skies and the water. My head was spinning from looking in every direction at the magnificent array of wildlife. It’s no wonder this region

101

102

Features is known as the “aquarium of the world” and has often been compared to the Galapagos Islands.

You’ll also visit pristine beaches on deserted islands, hike in the otherworldly landscape, kayak along picturesque shorelines and snorkel in the crystal clear waters amid schools of multicolored fish. Activities are led by on-board naturalist Carlos Gajon, a personable La Paz native whose grasp of the region's people, history and ecosystem is encyclopedic. Carlos was key to our group’s understanding of the region and its unique ecosystems, and he never ceased to amaze us with his wealth of knowledge and fascinating stories. In addition, he is an accomplished kayaker and diver, often supplying the boat with fresh fish, clams and scallops, which later found their way to our plates at mealtime, courtesy of the superb talents of Chef Tracie Triolo.

Each evening or late afternoon, the boat would anchor at a different locale, typically in a secluded and protected bay. The idea is not to travel during the night, but rather the day, allowing passengers to fully experience the journey. And, in case you’re wondering about noise at night, rest assured the boat is quiet, as it has an electrical system that allows the captain to go twelve hours at anchor without running a generator. Under the starlit skies, it’s often so quiet that you’re able to hear the humpbacks thumping or “pec slapping,” along with the panting breaths of the sea turtles.

I found myself fixated on the color of the water, which ranged in hues from azure and aquamarine to emerald and turquoise, depending on time of day, vantage point and the winds. Everyone onboard had different descriptions for the sea, but we all agreed it was a constantly changing beast that could be calm and inviting one minute, then choppy and inhospitable, the next. We were fortunate during our cruise that the weather gods were in a good mood.

One of the most memorable activities you’ll have the chance to participate in is snorkeling with the sea lions at Los Islotes, two guano-covered rock islets, one with a large sea lion colony. More than 400 California Brown sea lions make their home here. You’ll find these sleek and intelligent creatures lolling on rocks catching the rays, barking to one another, asserting dominance in “king of the hill” fashion and frolicking in the water.

If you’re lucky, the young’uns will

come right up to you, wanting to play. They’ll do flips, spin around and try to get you to mimic their antics.

These consummate comedians are guaranteed to make you laugh.

Another island of note is Isla Pardito, a tiny fishing village with only twenty residents. Located about fifty miles north of La Paz, this community has been the home of five generations. Years ago, the first inhabitants came to the island, searching for a peaceful place away from the negative influences of town, where they could make just enough money to live simply. They chose the spot because it lacked nosee-ums, the pesky, almost invisible mosquitos that can drive a person crazy, as well as the fact that it had ideal access to prime fishing waters. On our visit to Pardito, we met Sylvestre, one of the few residents remaining on the island, who greeted us and showed us how to fillet the trigger fish he caught the previous night. This mellow and tasty fish subsequently turned up on our plates at dinner that evening.

Isla San Francisco proved to be one of the best snorkeling spots for our group, as we saw schools of colorful king angelfish, spotted grunts, gold and blue snapper, trumpeters and even a boldly striped zebra moray eel. For kayaking, San Jose Island provided a picture-perfect setting to paddle around, followed by a walk on Oyster Beach to a lighthouse and saltwater lagoon. The latter was particularly interesting as it had huge amounts of foam lapping at the edges of its body of water, as well as in the crevices of the surrounding vegetation, making the plants look like they were decorated with cotton balls. The lagoon also appeared to have a copper bottom, which we were told was due to the rust effect from the algae in the saltwater.

A walk through the arroyo and down into the canyon at Punta Ballena provided good examples of some of the many types of cacti that are found in Baja, such as cardon, choya, barrel, agave, organ pipe and tiny mammillaria. The variety is extensive with a multitude of shapes and sizes. Some of the cacti looked distressed due to lack of water or because animals had gotten to them. One or two were in early bloom, presenting colorful flowers to enliven the environment. It’s interesting to note that the more arms a cactus has, the older it is. We saw plenty of “senior citizens” in residence!

On our trip, we were fortunate to

103

be able to visit Santa Catalina Island in Loreto Bay National Park. Due to its remote location and often prevailing strong winds, this island can be a challenge for boats to reach. Catalina is known as the land of the giant barrel cacti and walking among these behemoths made me feel very small and insignificant. The plants grow in larger proportions because the island has its own microclimate. They stand as grand sentries in this unique landscape, where the endemic rattle-less rattlesnake roams. Another dominant feature of the island is Elephant Rock, aptly named for its likeness to an elephant whose trunk is hanging down into the sea. On the beach was a dead sea turtle that

104

had most likely been washed ashore many months ago. Joining it was a dead stingray with its stinger still intact. Seeing this sharp, serrated “knife” up close gave me a newfound respect for the ray’s lethal weapon.

The pièce de résistance, however, was when we were heading back to the Westward and spied a hammerhead shark leisurely cruising through the water.

Exploring the islands is also akin to taking a walk back in history, as many contain prehistoric middens associated with past human occupation. On Puerto Gato, for example, you can find shards of rocks that were most likely used to sharpen tools. Other islands are

known to have bones that possibly belong to the mysterious Pericú, a fierce, independent tribe that disappeared over a century ago after being exposed to European disease.

Mealtimes are a delight on the Westward, with the crew joining passengers at the table to see what delectable culinary surprises the chef has whipped up. Chef Tracie is a magician in the kitchen. She utilizes ingredients from local providers whenever possible to create wholesome, yet tasty dishes, making use of spices and herbs she grows in pots on-board the boat.

Know that you will eat well and that the food is a definite highlight

of the trip. One night you might have broiled clams as an appetizer, followed by turkey enchiladas with mole sauce. Another night it could be prosciutto-wrapped chicken or pork loin with sweet potato and Brussel sprout hash. Seafood reigns supreme, as fresh fish and shellfish are conveniently available.

Lunches are equally as varied, from homemade pizza to lobster rolls and ceviche. Tracie even makes her own sushi! And the desserts are heavenly, especially if you’re a chocoholic.

The fourth member of the crew, Randy Good, serves as the ship’s carpenter and engineer. He was equally instrumental as the other

three crew members in creating a warm and hospitable environment on the boat. On our trip, Randy was mainly occupied with putting on some finishing touches to the Westward, though he was never too busy to stop and chat or lend a hand helping with a variety of duties. And come mealtime, he was always ready with a witty remark or humorous tale to recount, often sharing the floor with the ever-entertaining Captain Bill.

who choose such an experience are generally open and friendly individuals, curious about their surroundings, while possessing a deep and abiding respect for nature.

And because there are no televisions or computers or cell phone service that works while you’re cruising the Sea of Cortez, you will be totally unplugged, leaving more time to cultivate friendships and become connected to this remarkable and idyllic region.

During the journey, I saw the ease with which passengers and crew formed bonds and became a close knit family. There’s a wonderful sense of camaraderie that exists on this type of trip, as those

For more information, contact AdventureSmith Explorations, the world's leading online resource for small ship cruises, adventure cruises and adventure travel got to www. adventuresmithexplorations.com

105

Put a Pin in it

Experience La Dolce Vita at the Pace of a Paddle Stroke

By Debbie Stone

A

h, Italy! Images of famed masterpieces, majestic churches and revered historical sights immediately come to mind. Not to mention the food, glorious food, and wine that seems to run like water in this fabled destination. Most people pinpoint a few notable cities when they talk about Italy, primarily the well-known, “must-see” triad of Rome, Florence and Venice. Such places are typically on every traveler’s bucket list and often serve

108

as representative of the country as a whole. After touring these locales, many travelers feel they have seen Italy and opt to move on to the next European hot spot on their agenda.

Years ago, when I first went to Italy, I dashed madly from town to town, crossing off sights at rapid speed, then proudly announcing my feat to others. I had “done” Italy...or so I thought. Subsequent trips to this magical destination later in my life fortunately proved this assumption

wrong. The truth is that one can’t truly appreciate Italy as viewed solely via some frenetic whirlwind city tour. Italy demands time – time to slow down and engage your senses, and to fully indulge in La Dolce Vita.

Walking and cycling through a country are wonderful ways to relax the pace of travel, and I have enjoyed both these styles in the past. On my most recent trip to Italy, however, I decided to join a kayak expedition in

order to see the country from a different perspective, one paddle stroke at a time.

My eleven-day kayaking adventure with award-winning Tofino Expeditions focused on Cinque Terre and Sardinia, two of the most beautiful areas in Italy that also happen to be world class paddling destinations. The trip began and ended in Genova, the capital city of the Liguria region, which is situated around the northwestern coast of the

Features Europe. Narrow streets and ancient alleyways called “caruggi” create a labyrinth for visitors to navigate.

Wandering through this maze, you’ll stumble upon one historically highlighted building after another, as the city is a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hillsides surrounding the town are dotted with grand villas, while down on the restored waterfront is the site of one of the largest aquariums in Europe, as well as a maritime museum that chronicles Genoa’s history as a sea power.

Our group was fortunate to get an insider’s tour of the city with a true local, who just happened to be the fearless leader of our kayak expedition. Though Enrico (picture a gregarious Italian Sean Penn, who is passionate about life, Italy, and kayaking) provided much information and background about his hometown, he never bored us with too many details – allowing us to take in the sights and smells of Genoa on our own, up close and personal. This included visits to off-the-beatenpath medieval cloisters, stone churches, and hidden courtyards adorned with sculptures and mosaics. And of course, we stopped along the way for the proverbial cup of espresso and scoop of gelato at some of Enrico’s favorite haunts.

country. Known as the City of the Sea, due to it being a strategic port on the Mediterranean, Genova is rich in art and history; with a past that dates back 1,000 years. For this reason, some have deemed it the “City of Culture” or the “City of Art.” The town’s exceptional cultural heritage is displayed in its many museums, opulent palaces, and Romanesque and Baroque churches within the Porto Antico – the largest medieval historic center in all of

Paddling began in earnest on the second day of the trip once we arrived at Cinque Terre National Park. Located along the Riviera coastline, nestled between Genoa and Pisa, Cinque Terre is made up of the five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Suspended between sea and land on sheer cliffs, these towns are known for their perfect mix of old world charm and breathtaking views. The landscape consists of rocky coastline, dry-laid stonewalls, terraced vineyards, winding paths, and enchanting beaches. Lemon trees (with lemons the size of enlarged baseballs) compete with splashy magenta bougainvillea, providing a brilliant contrast of hues and scents.

The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks further enlivens the senses.

Corniglia has the highest elevation – at 330 feet above sea level – and is reached by a series of steep stone steps that seem to go on forever.

These were especially daunting after kayaking all day, and mandated the requisite gelato as a reward for effort. Manarola, one of the oldest villages, makes you feel like you’ve just walked into an Impressionist

109

painting due to its colorful houses.

Vernazza is a pedestrian-only town, which boasts the 14th century Ligerian Gothic style Santa Margherita d’Antichia Church, while Monterosso al Mare is a bustling beach community with numerous restaurants, cafes, and hotels.

Riomaggiore is famous for its wine, as well as for being an ideal place to catch a stunning sunset while dining on some of the best seafood in Italy (at the harbor side restaurant of Luca Giaccio). A young, rising-star chef, Giaccio is devoted to the most fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and classical Ligurian cuisine.

Though Cinque Terre is known as a hiker’s paradise where travelers can walk on clearly marked paths that span the various villages, it’s also nirvana for kayakers. Paddling from one town to the next provides

110

a unique perspective of the dramatic scenery on this rugged portion of the coast. From the water, the villages look precariously perched upon the impressive cliffs. Over the centuries, people carefully built terraces on the steep landscape right up to edges of these cliffs. It’s hard to imagine a more inhospitable place to settle, especially if you’re a farmer arriving by sea to this new land.

The distances between villages are not extreme, making them relatively easy to navigate by kayak. Although we occasionally shared the water with ferries and a few motorboats, we rarely saw other kayaks.

Whenever we arrived at one of the towns, everyone on the shore would watch us with great interest, even taking pictures of us in paparazzi fashion. We seemed an oddity, viewed with enormous fascination.

Features

This surprised me, as Italy is a Mediterranean country with plenty of gorgeous sea to make any kayaking endeavor a dream. The fact is that most visitors don’t equate the sport with the destination, although awareness is gradually increasing in recent years.

There is something very Zen-like about paddling, though I never would have made such a claim prior to this trip. In my limited sea kayaking experience, I only knew soreness and fatigue. With Enrique’s expert coaching, my skills improved tremendously over time. As I was in a tandem kayak, my improvement was much appreciated by my more proficient partner. Simple advice such as lengthening the arm when initiating a stroke allowed me to

understand the concept of the paddle being an extension of the arm and how crucial it is for stroke efficiency.

Another tip – remain upright and plant your bottom on the seat, while focusing on moving the torso from side to side – was important to my comprehending core dynamics and its crucial role in powering the boat.

When it came to turns, the most important rule – look where you want to go – became my mantra.

My improvement was gradual, but steady. Each day, I felt more confident and in control of the boat.

There was a rhythm to paddling, and I finally arrived at that Zen state – where going through each of the three stages in a stroke (catch the water, bury the paddle, and exit) became second nature. I was working

with the water, not against it; and it was an exhilarating and empowering experience. My partner and I worked together in sync, like a well-oiled machine. I like to think that we were ‘a thing of beauty’, gliding across the water.

It’s hard to describe the water, as it takes on so many different colors depending on location, time of day, and weather conditions. Our group would often discuss the colors of the sea, and everyone had their own labels for it. The adjectives ranged from emerald green and aquamarine, to milky turquoise and azure. When the wind blew, the sea darkened to an almost cobalt tone. In certain places, where jellyfish were in abundance, their bright iridescent hues added to the chroma potpourri.

The second half of the trip took place around the island of Sardinia, which we reached following a brief stopover in Pisa and an overnight ferry ride from Livorno. Our base was Via del Centro B&B on the island of La Maddalena. This is one of the many islands in the Archipelago of La Maddalena, which is about two kilometers from the northeastern shore of Sardinia. Although we had stayed in several quaint inns and boutique hotels during our stay, Via del Centro proved to be the most memorable property for our group.

Located right in the middle of town, it gave us prime accessibility to shops, restaurants, and the waterfront. It was spacious and very clean, but it was the innkeepers that made the place so special. Charming Fabrizio and his lovely girlfriend

111

Jessica ran the place, and they were exceptionally hospitable and kind – going out of their way to make us feel welcome and comfortable. They joined us for dinner most nights and enjoyed talking to us about their town and laid back island lifestyle. If I could have bottled up their élan, I would have brought it back with me.

Each day, we explored the sparsely inhabited La Maddalena Archipelago National Park, with its crystal clear water, surreal rock formations and picture perfect coves. The rocks often took on recognizable shapes such as animals or humans, even Disney characters. Some, like Octopus Rock, had been previously identified and named accordingly.

Wild and relatively untouched, this area is regarded by those in the know as one of the Mediterranean’s best kayaking playgrounds. We visited isolated islands, swam and

112

snorkeled in the warm turquoise sea, and picnicked at unspoiled beaches reached only via the water. Enrique would lie out the booty for the day’s lunch, and we would devour the fresh vegetables and fruit, meats and cheeses, and crusty bread with relish. Then we blissfully relaxed, our hunger sated, in the idyllic environment of sun-drenched beaches and dazzling sea.

One of the days we went inland on Sardinia for a look at the island’s verdant and hilly countryside. It also served as an opportunity to gain insight into the vibrant culture of the region. Historical sites dot the landscape, depicting the various invasions over the centuries. The mesh of different influences can still be seen today in the island’s archaeology and architecture. Roman remains exist, along with the conical towers of the Nuraghi (which date

back to the Bronze Age), and are considered a symbol of Sardinia.

More than 7,000 of these ancient edifices have been found over the years, though archaeologists believe there are nearly 10,000 in existence.

Food was an integral part of the trip, and Enrique and his convivial assistant Daniele took their mission seriously when it came to introducing us to the numerous regional specialties; from fried anchovies and octopus salad to chickpea focaccia, Sardinian cracker bread and seabream ravioli with clams. Each meal was a farm-and-sea-to-table gastronomic

feast for the senses, accompanied by local wines, and ending with a shot of limoncello or mirto – a special liqueur made from berries. As for the gelato, I aimed at trying a new flavor each day – for research purposes, of course! All were deliciously creamy and flavorful, but the winner was a heavenly concoction of ricotta and figs. Everyone in the group ate with gusto; after all, we were expending much energy kayaking each day and believed we were totally justified in our hearty consumption.

When we saw the satisfied smiles on the faces of the chefs upon noting our “buona forchetta” – or good

appetite – we felt we had done our part in showing our appreciation for their sumptuous cuisine.

Traveling through Italy on the seat of a kayak allowed me the opportunity to experience the beauty of this country at a pace that kept me fully engaged in the moment. It was a unique way to rediscover this enchanting destination, while providing the chance to participate in a challenging – yet highly rewarding – activity.

Tofino Expeditions is a top-ranked international sea kayak outfitter, committed to wilderness ethics, as well as to the quality of their adventures. The company features a range of kayaking trips worldwide designed to meet the needs and desires of both novice and experienced kayakers.

For more information, visit www.tofino.com.

113

Put a Pin in it

By Debbie Stone

Features Travel

Star-studded Swiss I Cities of Lausanne and Montreux

t’s hard to imagine what a noted British poet, a famous film actor, a celebrated French fashion designer and the lead vocalist of the rock band Queen could possibly have in common. Yet each of them – Lord Byron, Charlie Chaplin, Coco Chanel and Freddie Mercury – all resided, at one point in their lives, in and around the French-speaking region of Lausanne and Montreux, Switzerland.

After visiting this vibrant and alluring locale, I understand why these celebs and so many others have chosen to call it home.

Lausanne’s allure is widespread, from its glorious location on Lake Geneva and its Mediterranean ambiance to its rich history and flourishing arts scene. The city’s prominent Cathedral of Notre-Dame, a 13th century Gothic edifice with four stately towers and no less than 105 stained glass windows, dominates the landscape and establishes the town’s medieval roots. Buildings dating to the Middle Ages line the cobblestone streets within the picturesque city center. More than just a pretty face, however, Lausanne is a destination of learning, commerce and culture that attracts university students, business titans and visitors from around the globe.

Most tourists are surprised to discover that the main headquarters of the Federal Supreme Court has been situated in this town since 1874 and that it has also been home to the International Olympic Committee since 1915. The acclaimed, state-of-the-art Olympics Museum, one of Lausanne’s

51 115

main attractions, is based here as well. Plan to spend time exploring this wonderful, interactive museum, which tells the Olympic Story over time, from antiquity to to the present day, while paying tribute to the men and women who celebrate and epitomize the Olympic ideal. One floor is devoted to the origins of the ancient Olympic Games, their revival

by Pierre de Coubertin and their spread throughout the world. Other galleries focus on the Games and delve into the greatest feats and stories of the athletes who participated in the competitions.

Additionally, there are displays that explore the daily lives of athletes before, during and after the Games.

Outside the museum, overlooking scenic Lake Geneva, is the Olympic Park, which features works of contemporary artists and sports activity areas.

Art aficionados will rejoice in the city’s offerings, especially the Hermitage

52 116

Foundation, a gem of a museum housed in a preserved 19th century villa that holds exhibitions of paintings and sculptures created from 1850 to 1920, with a special focus on Impressionism and French art. Another unique, must-see cultural attraction in Lausanne is the Collection de l’Art Brut. The impetus for this museum stemmed from a donation of works by French artist Jean Dubuffet, who began collecting creations outside the mainstream in hopes of shedding light on art that was free from cultural and social conditioning. Works on display are by untrained artists, many who lived difficult lives. Some resided in mental institutions or were incarcerated in prison; others were social outcasts, loners or just eccentrics who turned to painting, sculpture and other artistic media as a means to express themselves. Though the pieces can be disturbing at times, they are truly fascinating, as is the accompanying biographical information about each of the contributors.

Features Travel

Lausanne is also a magnet for shoppers who flock to Place de la Palud and Rue de Bourg, pedestrianfriendly areas with over 1,500 boutiques and stores, along with colorful open-air market stalls selling everything from flowers to local produce, fish and wine. You’ll know you’re in the right spot when you see the Fountain of Justice, distinguished by a statue holding a scale in one hand to weigh the soul and a sword in the other to right the wrongs. It’s just one of 120 historical and whimsical fountains in the town.

When it comes to nightlife, the Flon district is the place to be. The area was once an industrial hub and architects were careful to preserve

the original style of the buildings during renovation. Today, it’s a collection of avant-garde-like structures that house shops, offices, apartments and entertainment venues which come alive when the sun sets and the party-goers appear.

With Lausanne’s Lake Geneva backdrop, it’s impossible not to want to spend some time near or on the water during your visit. Stroll down the beautiful lakeside promenade, or opt for a boat ride to explore neighboring Evian, France. Though only thirty minutes separates the two cities, they are worlds apart from one another when it comes to culture, people and ambiance.

Finding good food is never a problem in Lausanne -- or anywhere in Switzerland for that matter. The offerings are versatile, from awardwinning fine dining establishments with gourmet cuisine to cozy cafes and trendy bistros that boast inventive and exciting dishes.

Sampling Swiss chocolates is an activity in and of itself and a pursuit I took very seriously, especially when I was informed by a noted chocolate maker that eating chocolate or imbibing a chocolate beverage should be an intensely emotional experience. He emphasized the power of fine chocolate on one’s psyche, explaining that it has the ability to make you dream and to set your mind free. My favorite find was

at Le Barbare, a tiny café by the cathedral in Old Town. The place has achieved cult status thanks to its original 1950s décor and its sublime, swoon-worthy hot chocolate, whose aroma envelops you as you enter the door. You’ll want to keep your spoon handy, as this is one cup of cocoa that you actually eat, not drink.

Though sadly you won’t be able to see Charlie Chaplin, Coco Chanel, Lord Byron or Freddie Mercury around town, you might catch a glimpse of some other celebs if you stop in at the bar at Beau-Rivage Palace, one of the most prestigious hotels in the city. It’s where the stars like to stay, and for Diana Ross, as well as Phil Collins, it has also served as the perfect wedding destination. Stroll the gardens and you’ll come across an unusual site – a pet cemetery – where Coco Chanel’s beloved dog is purported to be buried, along with other pooches of note.

Lausanne provides easy access to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Lavaux Vineyards. Even if wine is not your thing, you’ll want to put this Swiss treasure on your list due to its jaw-dropping setting. Ten thousand vine terraces, a system created by Cistercian monks in the 11th century, hug the steep slopes that face the Alps above the shimmering waters of Lake Geneva. This is the birthplace of the Chasselas grape variety, a wine appreciated for its pure scents and delicate fruit notes.

Other varietals grown here, such as Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Gamaret and Sauvignon, are testimony to the richness of Lavaux’s terroirs which benefit from a temperate climate and a Mediterranean character to the

53 117

region. Patrick Fonjallaz is one of 250 vineyard owners in the Lavaux region. He is the successor of twelve generations of wine producers, a wine dynasty established in 1552.

His winery is destination-worthy, not only because of the high quality of the wines, but because of its breathtaking views of the surrounding environs.

Continuing south from Lavaux along the lake, you’ll soon come to Montreux, Switzerland’s “festival city” and a noted international tourist resort. As in Lausanne, many celebs have been attracted to the area due to its beauty, temperate weather and good quality of life.

Among the sights to take in is Chillon Castle, the most-visited historic building in Switzerland. It’s located on a small island in the lake, a mere few feet from the shore, and was once the residence and profitable toll station of the Counts of Savoy. For hundreds of years, the occupants extracted a fee from people and goods passing between Italy and the rest of Europe. In more modern times, it became famous for having inspired Lord Byron’s poem, “The Prisoner of Chillon,” which was based on the true story of Francois Bonivard, a political prisoner from Geneva. Byron is said to have carved his name in one of the columns in the dungeon where Bonivard was kept for several years. The castle has had many well-known visitors over the years, including Henry James, Victor Hugo and Salvador Dali.

If you happen to be in Montreux during the first weeks of July, you’ll

54 118

Features Travel be sharing the town with the masses who are there for the Montreux Jazz Festival. The event was the brainchild of Claude Nobs, a young, enterprising Swiss man with a love of music and a forward-thinking approach to technology. He organized the first festival in 1967 and over the years its popularity has extended across the globe, attracting musicians from a wide variety of genres. Big names such as Pink Floyd, Chicago, Santana, Stevie Wonder, Van Morrison and Miles Davis have all performed in Montreux. The headliners play in the acoustically sophisticated Stravinsky Auditorium, while lesser-known acts give their shows in smaller venues around town. The energy and enthusiasm is palpable among the festival-goers, who range from children to seniors, many who make this special event an annual tradition.

Those who come to Montreux at other times of the year won’t be disappointed, as the city’s first-class hotels and spas, mesmerizing Alpine views and hip restaurant and nightlife scene provide enjoyment and entertainment. And its lovely palm-fringed, lakeside promenade helps to give Montreux a wonderfully relaxed vibe. If you can tear yourself away from this grand Swiss-style Riviera, take the GoldenPass Railway to Les Rochers-de-Naye, the top of the mountain that dominates Montreux. You’ll ride a cogwheel train, which will transport you to the summit in less than an hour.

At almost 7,000 feet, the view overlooks Lake Geneva with an impressive panorama across the mountains. Atop, there’s an Alpine garden with thousands of plants and flowers from around the world, as well as colonies of marmots, more commonly known as the mascot of the Alps, who live in the vast expanse of the area. There are also two restaurants, a conference room and several authentic Mongolian yurts for those interested in spending the night in this serene environment.

Like the celebs of the past and those of the present, you, too, will be enticed by the enchanting Swiss cities of Lausanne and Montreux.

Their charms will cast a spell on you, ensuring that you will return again and again.

If you go

For Switzerland travel information: www.MySwitzerland.com For information about all things Swiss: www.swissworld.org

55 119

Visit Hilton Hawaiian Village® Waikiki Beach Resort and discover

the top 10 things to do at Waikiki’s favorite oceanfront playground. www.HiltonHawaiianVillage.com 1-800-HILTONS s 808-949-4321

4 3

1 Waikiki Starlight Luau®: Waikiki’s only luau extravaganza under the stars, featuring four re knife dancers.

2

Hilton is the proud partner of the series, Hawaii 5-0.

Dine at Tropics Bar & Grill and enjoy Hilton’s of cial Hawaii Five-0 cocktail.

6

5

Hawaiian Cultural Activities.

Demonstrations of Hawaiian arts, crafts and culture, exclusive to Hilton Hawaiian Village, including hula and Tahitian lessons, ukulele, lei-making and more.

Friday Night Fireworks.

Enjoy the energy of the “Rockin’ Hawaiian Rainbow Revue” at 7:00pm pool side, or sit under the stars and enjoy the dramatic reworks spectacular every Friday night at around 7:45pm.

The best pools and water slides in Waikiki.

Five unique resort pools in all.

7

Our beautiful green lawns are the perfect place to start your mornings in Waikiki with daily morning exercise classes: Yoga, Aerobics or Tai Chi.

Explore the Waikiki coast on Hilton’s 54´ catamaran, “Spirit of Aloha,” from the Hilton dock in front of the resort. Enjoy snorkeling, sunset cocktails or Friday night reworks & dinner.

8

9

Learn how to surf or stand-up paddle surf with the experts where sur ng was born. Lessons and rentals available at Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon.

10

The award-winning kid’s program, “Camp Penguin®” teaches kids about Hawaii and immerses them in the history and culture of the islands through fun outings and educational activities.

For ages 5-12.

Spend a day on the widest stretch of sand on Waikiki at Duke Kahanamoku Beach.

It was named “The #2 Beach in America,”

by Dr. Stephen Leatherman on his annual list.

B B

B B

BENOVIA

R

WINERY

Benovia Winery is located in the heart of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Visit us and discover our LUXE-uriously handcrafted Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. www.BenoviaWinery.com

Put A Pin In It! Enchanting Prague and Beyond

By Debbie Stone

N

o Czech city has been written and talked about as much as Prague, the country’s picturesque capital. It’s a magical place where history comes alive and the mysteries of the past are revealed through the town’s uniquely preserved historical center. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Prague boasts Romanesque chapels, Gothic cathedrals and Baroque palaces and gardens, making it a showcase of architectural masterpieces dating back centuries ago. Nicknamed “the city of a hundred spires” for its numerous towers, this European

122

capital is regarded as a medieval jewel.

Prague is not merely a pretty face.

It has the cred to back up its claim to fame. This is the city where the most influential men in Europe came together – rulers, generals, alchemists, Jewish scholars, writers, artists and musicians. It was here that Rabbi Loew is said to have brought the clay Golem to life; Giuseppe Arcimboldo created his unique portraits from fruit and vegetables; Franz Kafka put pen to paper and wrote his seminal works; Galileo, Copernicus and Kepler made

their astronomical discoveries; and the compositions of Mozart, Smetana, Liszt and Dvorak were met with thunderous acclaim.

All of the major highlights of this fairy tale city can be explored on foot via ancient cobble-stoned streets. One of the must-see sights is Prague Castle, the largest medieval castle complex in the world. It’s home to the Old Royal Palace and nearby St. Vitus Cathedral and serves as the seat of the president of the Czech Republic and the burial place of the most important Czech rulers

Features

123

48

Features and saints. You’ll be dazzled by the richly ornamented frescoes, statues and semi-precious stones adorning the 14th century gothic cathedral, which glistens in the sunlight. Hard to believe that such a grand project was completed using only hand labor!

The country’s most valuable historical artifacts, world famous paintings and hand annotated manuscripts by many of the greatest composers of the 17th century are carefully safeguarded within the castle complex, along with the Bohemian Crown Jewels and St. Vitus Treasure. Time your visit to see the ceremonial changing of the guard at noon and make sure you catch a midday classical music concert in the Lobkowicz Palace for the full experience. You’ll feel like privileged nobility as you sit in the palace’s exquisitely decorated 17th century Baroque Concert Hall while listening to works by Vivaldi, Bach, Mozart, Bizet and others. Then head outside and walk through the lovely terraced gardens beneath the castle before ambling down the steep, narrow streets and winding alleys of the Lesser Town.

Your visit to Prague should also include a stop at the Old Town Square, the true heart of the city, with its famed Old Town Hall and Astronomical Clock. The clock, which has adorned the façade of the building since 1410, is equipped with a mechanism consisting of statues of the twelve apostles.

Every hour, a skeleton symbolizing death inverts an hourglass and pulls a rope, which opens two windows where you’ll see St. Peter leading a procession of the apostles. Then there’s the crowing of the cock and subsequent chimes to note the time. The clock also shows the movement of the sun and moon through the signs of the zodiac. At the top of the tower is a viewing gallery, offering a spectacular bird’s eye perspective of the entire city.

From this vantage point, you’ll be captivated by a panorama of spires, domes, towers and colorful red roofs as far as the eye can see.

it’s besieged by crowds of tourists.

There are numerous other sights to take in during your stay in the city, including the Municipal House, the most magnificent Art Nouveau building in the country; the Jewish town of Josefov, with the oldest active synagogue in Europe; Petrin Hill, a peaceful forested park in the heart of the metropolis with an observation tower built as a mini version of the Eiffel Tower; and Estates Theatre, where you can watch a production of The Marriage of Figaro.The opera was personally conducted there by Mozart in 1781 and has been performed at the same location ever since.

Prague, though, is often as far as most travelers go when it comes to the Czech Republic. It’s clear that the town is the undisputed crown and mother of Czech cities.

However, if you limit yourself only to Prague, you will miss so much more. The country is full of many unique treasures and wonders, particularly in the Vysocina or highlands region, which has the highest concentration of monuments on the UNESCO Cultural and Natural Heritage List within the Czech Republic. Among them is Telč, the “Town of Inspiration,” with its famed triangular-shaped village

The 14th century Charles Bridge with its magnificent Baroque statues is another highlight. Spanning sixteen arches, it’s lined with thirty Baroque statues of religious figures, each with its own story to tell.

The bridge crosses over the scenic Vltava River and serves as the main pedestrian walkway between the Castle District and Prague’s Old Town, New Town and the Jewish Quarter. It is best to visit the Charles in the early morning before

125

center. Houses in every color of the rainbow, built in the Renaissance and Baroque styles, line the streets, making the place look like something that came straight from the tales of Hans Christian Andersen.

Nearby, the grand Telč Chateau stands as one of the best preserved Renaissance complexes in the country. Especially noteworthy are the chateau’s interior furnishings within its massive halls, as well as the wooden cassette ceilings and rich collections of weapons and paintings. It’s also supposedly haunted by a woman in white, a long ago resident of the castle, who enjoys a bit of mischief by opening and closing the doors at odd times.

A lovely natural park with ponds surrounds the place and there’s an actual Classicist hothouse on site.

An hour from Telč is the town of Jihlava, home to the second largest underground in the country. The catacombs cover an area of 50,000 square miles and contain passages which are cut into the rocks in several stories under the city center’s historical buildings. They were created as a storage place for merchants, artisans and craftsmen.

Those in the brewing business also found it a particularly ideal place to store and mature beer in casks due to consistency of temperature.

The work was done by skilled miners who linked the separate cellar areas by numerous corridors into a complex network. Later, one of the passageways served as an escape route during the Swedish military occupation of the Thirty Years’ War. Some think the catacombs are haunted, and several years ago, a journalist who braved an overnight in the damp, dark and cramped conditions, captured a silhouette on the wall that many believe was an apparition. Others say they feel vibrations or different heat sensations at specific places along the walls.

The Czech Republic is a nation of beer drinkers and is proud to be the number one country for beer consumption per capita, a title it has held for nearly twenty years.

With such notoriety, a brewery tour is a definite must during your visit.

The Brewery at Dalešice, though not the largest in the country, has an engaging history and, more important, it produces some very good pibo or beer! You’ll get to see not only the modern process of beer making, but also get a glimpse of the traditional methods used in the past. In Dalešice, beer is brewed according to an old brewing act, which states that only water, malt, hops and years may be used for

126

Features

127

128

Features making beer, while nothing is to be added or taken away during the brewing process.

The tour includes several samples, but if you wish to continue imbibing, head next door to the brewery restaurant. You’ll find an assortment of light and dark beer, including one made with elderberry flowers, along with typical Czech dishes such as beef goulash, honey-roasted pork ribs with pickled vegetables, crispy roasted duck with sauerkraut and homemade dumplings, and of course, the proverbial sausage with mustard. For dessert, try the pancakes with cream cheese and prunes or the whipped mascarpone with forest fruit sauce.

Monasteries are also places to find beer-making facilities, as historically, this was a craft often undertaken by monks. Zeliv Monastery, for example, is one of the oldest monasteries in the country. It was established in 1139 and first inhabited by Benedictines; later, a community of Premonstratensians became the resident religious order. The place underwent a number of changes and was restored several times after numerous fires. During the communist totalitarian period of the second half of the 20th century, it became an internment camp for spiritual leaders. The names of those individuals held in captivity are listed on a wall plaque in recognition of their courage.

Between 1957 and 1991, the building served as a mental hospital, before it was finally returned back to the Premonstratensians. A tour of the monastery includes a stop at the Abbey Brewery Zeliv, where you can taste specially crafted beers like the fruity Siard Falco made with sour cherry extract, or Castulus, a combination of mead and ale.

Of all the churches in the Czech Republic, the Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk at Zelena Hora is, in my opinion, perhaps the most unique. Located near the historical border between Moravia and Bohemia, it is the final work of Jan Santini Aichel, a Bohemian architect who combined the Baroque style with references to Gothic elements in both construction and decoration. The church was the pinnacle of his extraordinary inventiveness and is known for its precise geometric splendor. Story has it that Vaclav Vejmluva, an abbot and keen admirer of St. John of Nepomuk, commissioned Santini Aichel to design the building after an undamaged tongue was allegedly found in the saint’s tomb in St.

129

Vitus Cathedral in Prague in 1722.

The abbot saw this as a sign and ordered construction of the church to commence. Built on top of a hill, the entire structure and its various parts are composed in the shape of a five-point star; five being the perfect number in Cistercian thinking. The layout of the building forms a pentagram where you can enter from five doors leading to five altars which have five stars and five angels. Its inner space gives the impression that it was created by light, as no dark corners exist. The church became the dominant feature of the region and people believed it was a star protecting the town and its surroundings. Annual pilgrimages to the site continue today.

Another of the region’s claims to fame is the town of Třebíč, where you’ll find several UNESCO World Heritage monuments. The first is St.

130

Procopius Basilica, a 13th century Romanesque-Gothic Christina church built on the site of the original Virgin Mary’s Chapel of the Benedictine monastery. It’s a national treasure and an imposing marvel of medieval architecture with round rosette windows, an extensive triple-nave crypt with pillars and a double eight-piece stone vaulted choir.

Třebíč is also the location of one of the best preserved Jewish ghettos in Europe. The Jewish Quarter, together with the Jewish Cemetery, is the only Jewish monument outside Israel specifically placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The quarter consists of 123 preserved houses along with the buildings of former Jewish institutions, including the town hall, two synagogues, rabbinate, poorhouse, hospital and school. The Jewish Cemetery, which

Features

131

dates back to the 17th century, contains nearly 11,000 graves and 3,000 stones, as well as separate memorials to WWI Jewish soldiers and to the victims of the Holocaust.

The best way to explore the Jewish Quarter is on a guided tour, where you’ll learn about the way of life and traditions of the Jewish community that once existed in this town. The first Jews came to Třebíč as early as the 13th century, settling on the left bank of the Jihlava River.

The Jewish Quarter gradually grew until the second half of the 17th century when it reached more than 1,500 people, which was a third to a half of the town’s population at that time. In 1723, the area’s

132

landowner, Jan Josef of Wallenstein, ordered all Jews to move into a separate ghetto, essentially closing them off and separating them from their Christian neighbors with whom they had lived for centuries without any major conflicts. During WWII, all the Jews were taken away to concentration camps, causing Třebíč’s Jewish community to disappear entirely.

A museum displays an exhibition of the housing of a Jewish family in the interwar era, and is furnished with typical objects of Jewish culture. There is also a recreation of a Jewish grocery store. Next door is the Rear Synagogue with its hand painted walls covered in

Hebrew liturgical texts, quotations of rabbis, ornamental patterns and various symbols. Built around 1669, it was the second house of worship in the town, the first being the Front Synagogue, circa 1639. The Rear Synagogue was needed due to the increasing influx of Jewish inhabitants to the area. It was severely damaged in later years when authorities issued orders to demolish it. After serving as a storehouse for a local tannery, it became an exhibition center and concert hall.

As for the Front Synagogue, it is currently used as a church.

conceal elements of Jewish architecture, such as winding lanes, houses almost one on top of the other, staircases carved into the rock and vaulted passageways.

Other characteristics adding to the original charm of the atmosphere include public passages through the houses, iron-clad doors, stone jambs of portals and verandas and balconies from the Middle Ages.

Walking down the narrow streets of this once vibrant and culturally-rich community, you can almost hear the voices of the past. Thankfully, their legacy is still alive.

As you stroll through the Jewish Quarter, you’ll notice the dense concentration of buildings, which

For more information on enchanting locations you go www. czechtourism.com

Features

d i s c o v e r c h a r l e v o i x ’s h i d d e n g e m

r e s e rvat io n s 1 800 441 1414 fairmont.com/richelieu

The castle on the cliff.

Guardian of the mighty St. Lawrence River.

Perched majestically between the ever-changing St. Lawrence River and the rolling terrain of Quebec’s unrivalled Charlevoix region, the Manoir has its special place in history.

And in memory. Tales of elegant hospitality, spectacular golf, exquisite cuisine, non-stop activities all year round ... or total relaxation. Come experience it for yourself!

FA I R M O N T L E M A N O I R R I C H E L I E U

|

HÔTEL

~

CASINO

~

S PA

~

GOLF

There’s that certain time of day. . .

REGIONAL + SEASONAL + ARTISANAL Four Seasons Resort Hualalai on the beautiful kohala coast Reservations 808 325 8333

Put A Pin In It!

Let Yourself Be Wooed

By India

By Debbie Stone

64

Features Travel

F

alling in love with India is a gradual affair. First, it flirts with you to get your attention. Then it begins to entice you with its charms.

India, though, wants more from you than just a platonic relationship. It’s looking for a deeper commitment – one that seeks to bind itself to your heart and soul. Slowly and steadily, you fall under its enigmatic spell, and before you know it, there’s a new love in your life.

Much of India’s appeal is due to its deep roots. With a civilization that can be traced back thousands of years, it has bragging rights as one of the world’s oldest cultures. The country is steeped in history and ancient sites abound, from opulent palaces and stalwart forts to dazzling temples and grand mosques. You’ll be mesmerized by architectural wonders that seem to appear around every corner. In Delhi alone, there are 1,300 monuments.

Among them is Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in the country, and a magnificent example of Mughal architecture with its red sandstone and austere, white marble. An active place of worship since 1650 A.D., it has a courtyard that can hold 25,000 people at one time. Then there’s the Red Fort, a stunning example of a blend of Persian, Indian and European architecture. Completed a decade before the mosque, it was the seat of the Mughal Empire for more than 250 years, and one of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city.

In Agra, it’s all about the incomparable Taj Mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and the

greatest monument dedicated to love. This spectacular white marble mausoleum was the creation of the Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his beloved queen, Mumtaz Mahal. It took twenty-two years to complete, involving a labor force of 22,000 skilled craftsmen. Seeing this masterpiece up close and personal is one of the many pinch-me moments that abound in this magical country.

It’s particularly stirring at sunrise, when colors of the sky are reflected on the building’s shimmering walls.

One of the more unusual UNESCO World Heritage Sites is Khajuraho.

The temples, which were constructed about a thousand years ago, are extraordinary examples of Hindu religious art. Lavish stone sculptures with erotic scenes adorn the facades. At first, you don’t notice the themes presented, but on closer examination, you are surprised, then taken aback at the explicitness of the details. The sophisticated design and building techniques used in creation of these temples and the artistry of its sculptures are difficult to describe in words. Only in person can you grasp their impact.

Jaipur, known as the Pink City, is home to the famed Amber Fort and Palace that is typically reached via elephant up a winding road to the ramparts. The town is also known for its City Palace, an immense complex containing a number of museums that offer an impressive collection of costumes, armory and miniature paintings. My personal favorite in Jaipur, however, is the Hawa Mahal or Palace of the Wind. This

137

abandoned place that once served as the capital of the region. As you wander about, you can almost hear voices of the people that resided within its walls.

India’s diversity, from its many religions and languages to its traditions and topography, is a major allure for visitors. The country is one of the most religiously diverse nations in the world, with religion playing a central role in the lives of many of its people. It is the birthplace of Hinduism, Buddhism, Sikhism and Jainism, and is home to a multitude of houses of worship.

Temples and mosques come in every shape and size, ranging from grand, over-the-top lavish complexes to simple, unadorned structures.

intriguing, eye-catching façade was built in 1799, so that ladies of the court could use its unique windows and observe the bustling bazaar without being visible to people on the streets.

You’ll also find a host of historical destinations in Jodhpur, including the fifteenth century Mehrangarh Fort, with its series of seven great gates atop a scenic hilltop locale.

Of note are the fifteen handprints in the wall next to the huge entrance Iron Gate. They were etched into the edifice by the widow queens of Maharaja Man, just prior to throwing themselves upon his funeral pyre in 1843, as the besieged fort was about to be conquered.

Equally as well-known is Udaipur’s fabled City Palace, with its beautifully decorated rooms featuring thousands of handcrafted mirrors, brightly colored stained glass windows, expansive inlaid marble balconies and the unique peacock courtyard. The nearby Crystal Gallery houses the world’s largest assemblage of priceless crystal, a dazzling scene that almost always elicits gasps of admiration from viewers.

Lesser visited sites are equally impressive and provide interesting detours, minus the crowds. Fatehpur Sikri, for example, is a beautiful uninhabited city, constructed primarily out of red sandstone.

There’s a haunting quality to this

138

Throughout India, you’ll find people praying and observing various religious rites at almost every hour of the day. For some, the experience is intensely private; others opt for a more formalized group affair.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in Varanasi, where the Ganges, India’s holiest river, is located.

Pilgrims from all over the country, and even the world, come to this city to take part in age-old Hindu rituals.

They head to numerous ghats, or areas leading down to the river, where they bathe, pray and also cremate their loved ones, so that their ashes can be washed away by the Ganges. At night, there are mass ceremonies with music and dance.

The smell of smoke, incense and humanity fills the air in what can only be described as a mesmerizing, otherworldly scene.

Clothing also provides evidence that religion is the life-blood of many of the residents. Hindu women clad in colorful saris stroll through the markets alongside their Muslim

Xxxxx xxxxx counterparts dressed in burqas and hijabs. And you’ll hear a multitude of languages spoken no matter where you are, as there are twenty-two official languages in India and countless other dialects.

Another noticeable nod to religion and tradition are the cows that wander unchecked in the streets and even attempt to enter the shops.

These animals are revered in Hindu culture, and are viewed as symbols of non-violence and of the mother goddess. They are also known to be harbingers of good fortune and wealth. It is for these reasons they are treated with respect and every effort is made to avoid hitting or injuring them on the roads – even if this means swerving into another vehicle!

As for India’s topography, you’ll quickly note the diversity when you travel across the country. The range of landforms is extensive. There are jagged mountains, stark deserts, dense forests, vast plains and picturesque coastlines, providing something for everyone when it comes to landscape. This also applies to climate, which runs the gamut from oppressively hot and dripping wet humid conditions in the lowlands to extreme cold in upper elevations.

India lures visitors with its sensoryrich environment. This stimulation can, however, overwhelm you initially, as it’s hard to take everything in at one time. Navigating the roads, for example, is a crazy, chaotic and challenging ordeal.

Streets are full of people using all manner of transportation to get to their destinations. Motor scooters with entire families compete with cars, bikes and tuk-tuks, or autorickshaws that can be described as basically a lawn mower with a rusty metal top. Then there are the dilapidated trucks and overstuffed, ancient buses with passengers hanging out the windows, along with vendors and their carts, and a seemingly endless stream of pedestrians hauling all sorts of goods on top of their heads. And let’s not forget the cows and the occasional camel that tend to block the middle of the road. Streets are typically narrow and full of potholes, and there are no apparent traffic lanes nor traffic lights at most intersections. The only rule is to stick to one direction and not deviate from that trajectory. That, and use your horn profusely to warn others of your presence.

139

When Indy’s Libertine Liquor Bar landed on Esquire’s “Best Bars in America” list, it was acknowledgment of not only a bar, but a scene that has been building. From our breweries raking in gold at the Great American Beer Festival to our chefs stirring up buzz over our dining scene, Indianapolis is serving up more than the race cars and hoops we’re known for. Take a long weekend and discover the Midwest’s best kept secret for yourself.

For what to see, do, and eat, go to VisitIndy.com | BLOG: DoingIndy.com | FOLLOW US: @VisitIndy

Features Travel

ALL PHOTOS BY DEBBIE STONE

Eating in India is also an experience that taps into all the senses. The food is heavily influenced by religious and cultural choices and traditions, and cuisine varies from region to region.

Your taste buds come alive with the intensity of the spices and herbs used in various dishes. And your palate becomes a canvas for a plethora of flavors, from sweet and salty to savory and fiery hot. An assortment of interesting textures also comes into play along with heavenly aromas, and you’ll use the omnipresent Nan bread to sop up every last bit of sauce on your plate. Then you’ll stumble back to your room, sated and in a foodinduced coma.

When it comes to smells, India has it hands down. It’s not only the food that provides olfactory stimulation, but also perfumed oils worn by women (and some men), incense that burns inside the temples, tropical flowers in gardens and yes, rotting garbage and cow pies that litter the

streets. This, too, is India.

India rolls out the red carpet when it comes to genuine hospitality. Its people aim to please and to make visitors feel welcome in their country. Their goal is for guests to have a positive experience, and they will do everything they can to assure you are comfortable. They also feel it’s important to help you understand their culture, as they are proud of their age-old traditions and ways. You will find their warmth and smiles contagious, and their

graciousness, sincere. The ancient Sanskrit greeting, “Namaste,” which is still heavily in use today, says it all “I bow to you and extend

friendship and love.” The finest compliment you can pay the people of India is a return visit to this bewitching destination.

141

Put a Pin in It!

Features Travel

I

didn’t think the day could get any better as we witnessed a pod of magnificent Orcas gliding by our ship along with dozens of Painted Petrels riding the waves amid ice sculptures that could have been made by Michelangelo himself. But it did -- as soon as we set foot on land and were greeted by a welcome committee of thousands of Adelie penguins dressed in their finest tuxes. They paraded all around us as they headed to and from their nests on the rocks and to the sea on a well-trafficked path, commonly referred to as the “penguin highway.” Most waddled in perfect linear formation, one after another, though occasionally a few would slide down the hills in an effort to take a shortcut to their destination.

Consummate entertainers, they provided endless amusement and Kodak moments for their enthralled human audience.

Antarctica Beyond Expectations

By Debbie Stone

For most people, Antarctica brings to mind a mysterious, isolated place of frigid temperatures and extreme conditions. It’s a land of superlatives, being the highest, coldest, windiest and surprisingly driest continent in the world, with the largest wilderness area. Most of its 5.4 million square miles is a vast permanent ice sheet averaging 8,000 feet in thickness. It’s hard to imagine this reality, however, until you actually visit the place and discover a pristine wonderland that goes far beyond expectations.

Getting to the Great White Continent is an adventure in itself.

The majority of travelers take an expedition cruise departing from Ushuaia, Argentina, known as “the end of the world” for its location at the extreme southern tip of South America. There are numerous companies offering such trips.

I booked my cruise with Adventure Life because of its reputation in the industry for working with top polar

143

voyage leaders such as Quark Expeditions. On an eleven-day, introductory Antarctic Explorer cruise, Quark’s Sea Adventurer was my home away from home. The ship had a wide range of creature comforts for its 117 guests plus crew, including compact cabins; a spacious, window-walled observation lounge; main dining room; bar; small library; mini boutique; several storage areas; ample open deck space and, of course, the bridge, or navigational hub.

It takes two days to reach Antarctica from Ushuaia and involves crossing the infamous Drake Passage.

This is the body of water between South America and Antarctica that serves as a connecting point between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Frequented by icebergs and huge waves and plagued by gale-force winds, this legendary passage can often be violent, chaotic and unpredictable.

If Mother Nature is in a relatively calm mood, you’ll get to experience “The Drake Lake” with just a bit of rolling and pitching about – maybe

only a one-Dramamine kind of day. If not, you’ll be at the mercy of “The Dreaded Drake,” where you’ll feel like you’re on a bucking bronco that threatens to fling you from the ship.

For those really affected by the severity of the motion, the safest course of action is to remain prone in your bed. You won’t be able to read, watch videos or concentrate on much of anything except your appreciation for being in a stalwart, sea-worthy vessel with a veteran captain and crew -- and for having access to the ship doctor’s arsenal of motion sickness medication.

Rough seas are not fun for most folks. Just know there’s light at the end of the tunnel and this, too, will pass. The discomfort is well worth the rewards.

If the situation is manageable, take advantage of all the fascinating educational presentations given by the expedition team on their areas of expertise, from marine biology and ornithology to geology and history. Spend time bundled up outside on the deck watching the albatross circling the ship; go up to the bridge and learn about the

navigational equipment; visit the gift shop and get yourself some Antarctica-themed merchandise; eat lots of cookies in the lounge and get to know your fellow passengers.

On my cruise, there were people from all over the world – a mini United Nations of sort – who were well-seasoned travelers. For many, Antarctica was their seventh and final continent. You’ll also be engaged in a variety of mandatory activities such as picking up your boots and parkas, learning about the environmental protocols for shore landings, participating in safety drills and vacuuming your outer clothing and equipment to prevent spreading any invasive species.

The two-day crossing really serves to gain not only physical, but psychological distance, from civilization. You can’t really appreciate how far removed Antarctica is until you sit on a boat for two days with not much to view except steel gray rolling waves as far as the eye can see. And that makes it all the more incredible when you spy your first iceberg and get your first glimpse of terra firma.

Then the excitement builds as gradually the ship is surrounded by more ice sculptures and jagged mountains covered with snow and glaciers, presenting a photo directly out of the pages of a National Geographic Magazine.

Visitors to the Great White Continent will find scenes of grandeur and magnificence, along with abundant marine life. The variety of ice will astound you, and

144

Features

even more so when you learn that each kind has its own name.

Passengers are provided with a glossary of terms in order to help them identify the different forms, ranging from anchor ice and bergybits to floe, growler and frazil.

Of special note are the mammoth tabular bergs flat-topped icebergs that are more or less parallel with the waterline. The glaciers, too, are impressive in size, and when calving occurs, the noise can be deafening.

As we cruised through the islands surrounding the Antarctic Peninsula, we settled into a routine that consisted of at least two excursions a day. Zodiacs or inflatable boats took us from the ship to land where we had time to wander around, watch the wildlife, take a hike and simply revel in the majestic scenery.

The expedition team was always on hand to point out sensitive, off-limit areas, as well as to explain about the environment and the creatures

inhabiting it.

The penguins were the main attraction on these landings. They squawked and waddled, fetched rock after rock for their nests, splashed in the sea during their food forays and basically went about their business as usual without paying much attention to their human admirers. Like paparazzi, we followed them, cameras clicking away, as we attempted to capture every last

comical pose. We never tired of watching and listening to these Antarctica celebrities. Most of the species we saw were either Adelie, Chinstrap or Gentoo penguins, and as it was December, they were still in the nesting stage. We were fortunate to spot one errant Macaroni penguin that seemed to have somehow gotten himself mixed in with the others. He stood out from the rest due to the bright yellow feathers on the top of his head.

145

On land, the penguins have no real predators. In the water, however, they can become fair game for seals, sea lions and whales. There are also certain birds, such as the skua, that will snatch the penguins’ eggs if they are exposed. We witnessed this on a few occasions and you had to admire these birds for their prowess and quick action. Along with the skua there are other bird species that inhabit Antarctica, including blue-eyed shags, Antarctic terns, kelp gulls, storm petrels, albatrosses, cormorants, snowy sheathbills and an assortment of geese and ducks.

Only two of the landings we made had buildings of any sort on them.

At Hope Bay, there’s the Argentinean Research Station, and at Port Lockroy, there’s an extraordinary historical museum inside the old British Antarctic Survey hut. One room within the facility is also a post office and gift shop where you can purchase stamps, postcards and souvenirs. Mail sent from Port Lockroy can take from three weeks to three months to reach its final destination.

146

Features Travel In addition to landings, we often took zodiac cruises along the coastline to get up an up-close look at the icebergs, bird rookeries and glaciers. Occasionally, we spotted seals sprawled across the glowing ice structures. Massive in size, they rarely moved from their frozen Barcaloungers. And then there were the whales. Sometimes we were lucky to see them while we were in the zodiacs; other times, we intently observed them from the ship as they spouted or fed on large amounts of krill. These small crustaceans are abundant in Antarctic waters and virtually all of the animals in Antarctica are dependent on the enormous populations of krill for their food, directly or indirectly.

When a large pod of humpbacks went by, it was akin to whales on parade – a magical Disney-like moment that felt unreal.

Depending on the cruise itinerary, Quark offers other optional activities, such as a one-night camp-out on land, kayaking, crosscountry skiing and even stand-up paddleboarding. There’s also the opportunity to do a polar plunge. I joined 50 brave folks for this challenge that involved jumping into the icy cold 28 degree water from off of the ship’s lowest deck. The

shock to your system when your body makes contact with this freezing aquatic milieu is indescribable. The good thing is that you are quickly pulled out, given a shot of vodka and wrapped in a towel before the whole experience actually registers. Those who successfully accomplished this feat are given certificates attesting to their insanity and have eternal bragging rights.

Back on the ship, there’s no time to be bored. Quark values the educational component and the expedition team is passionate about sharing its wealth of knowledge about everything Antarctica. They are enthusiastic, fun and caring individuals that have a deep, abiding respect for this wondrous continent.

In addition to the daily lectures, there are films, books about past explorations, maps, charts, photos and many resources for passengers.

And, of course, there’s time to just try to soak it all in and treasure this dramatic place – the only spot on earth that is still as it should be, untamed and untouched.

If you go: www.adventure-life.com/ antarctica

147

Luxury & ELEgancE

with ocean views from every window.

Each suite has a separate sitting and sleeping chamber with a king sized bed and a luxury private bath.

Wake up to beautiful breakfasts served by our lighthouse keepers in the cozy kitchen with fireplace and ocean vistas.

Photos by Darren Setlow Our living quarters are outfitted with the latest modern technology including wifi, LED televisions, and USB ports.

Come and stay...

Surround yourself with sweeping panoramic views of Maine’s Atlantic Coastline and bask in contemporary luxury and design. The custom millwork, beautiful moldings, coered ceilings and marble bathrooms are the ultimate in cra"smanship. The views from every window are dramatic, 360 degree ocean views. The Cuckolds is a unique experience, receiving each guest in contemporary luxury through layers of bespoke cra"smanship and design. All honoring the sense of place and Cuckolds history.

Reservations Toll Free: 855.212.5252 www.innatcuckoldslighthouse.com

Images: Jessica Pearl and Kristin Hettermann. Aerial Photo:

ONE WORLD . ONE OCEAN . ONE VODKA

Organic Ocean Vodka. Clean, Pure, Award-Winning Vodka from Paradise.

Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery shares the dream with you, educating guests on the importance of organic farming for the conservation of land and ocean, green manufacturing and the production of spirits.

We welcome you to visit our organic farm, distillery and gift shop, situated on a breathtaking 80-acres on the slopes of Mount Haleakala. Contact us for corporate and private events.

Tours daily, seven days a week.

4051 Omaopio Road, Kula, Maui, Hawai‘i - (808)877-0009

Certified 100% USDA Organic . Gluten Free . Powered by the Sun Organic Sugar Cane . Deep Ocean Mineral Water . Made on Maui Please Enjoy Responsibly. Produced and bottled by Hawai‘i Sea Spirits, Kula, Maui, Hawai‘i 40% ALC/VOL (80 Proof) ©2013.

Debbie Stone

Travel Writer and Columnist

By Lillian Africano This article originally ran in October 2015.

T

his month we are featuring Debbie Stone, whose work has appeared in a variety of publications, ranging from newspapers and magazines to travel-related websites. Additionally, she has served as a travel specialist for the NPR-affiliated, talk radio show, “2 Boomer Babes,” as well as for local T.V. stations in Albuquerque, New Mexico. She also writes a monthly travel column for Luxe Beat Magazine called Put a Pin in it!

Debbie came to travel writing after working in a number of different careers: as a play and dance therapist, an ESL teacher (both in the U.S. and abroad), an airline sales and public relations rep, an adult basic education instructor and a newspaper reporter. It was while she was a journalist living in Seattle that she began dipping my toe in the travel writing waters. Thanks to the encouragement of her editor, she started to pursue travel writing in earnest. That was fifteen plus years ago, and Debbie is happy to say that she continues to be fully engaged in the profession today. It is work that excites and stimulates her and it allows her to explore the globe in search of unique destinations and experiences to share with her readers. Debbie views herself as an avid adventurer who welcomes new opportunities to increase awareness and enthusiasm for travel and crosscultural connections.

How did you discover your love for travel?

My love for travel was ignited early on, when I was just a young girl, by my mother whose passion for adventure proved to be contagious.

I was fortunate that my family went

150

on many vacations, as these trips introduced me to a world outside my childhood home in Chicago.

Travel opened my mind, extended my awareness and gave me an education I could never have received from books. I sought opportunities to continue traveling when I was in college and in later years, choosing to study, work and volunteer abroad whenever possible. As a parent, I made travel an important part of my kids’ lives, with the goal of passing on my love of adventure, my curiosity and my explorer genes to them.

Are you more passionate about writing or photography?

Writing is my primary passion as I feel I can communicate more effectively in words, plus I have always loved the written word so I naturally gravitated to this form of communication. I do, however, take all of my travel photos for my stories, realizing that sometimes a picture is equally or even more equipped at telling a story.

Describe your writing process.

I carry a small notebook with me when I travel and jot down my impressions, feelings, necessary information, etc. I even use it to sketch certain places and people.

When I get home, I go through the information I have gathered, along with a few special mementos I have collected, my notes, photos, etc. and use everything to craft my story. I write while the memories are still fresh, yet I also give myself some time to digest the experiences. I typically design a rough outline of the story, having decided the focus with the audience in mind, and then I get to work. I write in my home office, which is a room decorated with items and photos from my

many travels. It sets the stage for my creative process. I usually complete a story within a day or two, as I am disciplined to complete the assignment quickly through my experience as newspaper reporter.

Then I wait a day before I look at the article again, with fresh eyes, make the necessary corrections/ additions, etc.

When you have the opportunity to choose your travel destination, where do you go?

I choose destinations that appeal to my interests at the time, whether they are cultural, historical, wildlife, adventure, culinary, etc.

I also choose places and modes of travel that I think will appeal to my readers, which range from high-powered professionals and active retirees to solo travelers and families with young kids. Lately, I have been trying to pick some far-flung destinations to satisfy my bucket list/dream locales, like Antarctica, India and the Amazon.

However, I recently chose to explore a small, relatively unknown place in southeastern Wyoming, as I wanted to write about a destination that I know most people had never heard of, let alone visited. There’s something special about discovering such a place and feeling like you are one of the few writers to capture its beauty.

If you could be anyone else, who would you be?

I would love to be a cultural anthropologist like Margaret Mead, who went to live among people in esoteric parts of the world to try and understand and document their cultures.

What is it about luxury travel that motivates you to write?

I enjoy writing about luxury because it brings me in contact with some of the best properties, finest food/ wine offerings and top-of-the-line experiences. It’s an exciting and fascinating world with a high droolworthy factor that is irresistible in its pull.

Where do you see the luxury market going?

The business of luxury continues to change and evolve, as people’s hunger for new and more luxurious experiences grows, along with technological advances. The bar keeps on rising, which forces those in the industry to be on their toes, constantly thinking of how to meet and exceed the expectations of the very wealthy consumer. It’s exciting to see the innovative results that occur in this market.

What has been one of your favorite experiences while traveling?

I have so many favorites, but one of the standouts has to be trekking through Nepal with Dr. Antonia Neubauer, founder of READ (Rural Education and Development) and founder and president of the cultural tour company, Myths and Mountains. Visiting the many small library community centers that Toni and her nonprofit organization have helped to create within these tiny mountain villages was an incredibly unique and eye-opening experience.

It brought home the realization of the importance of such facilities as catalysts for rural development.

As we visited these places, the villagers would line up to greet us and spend hours regaling us with stories of how the libraries and centers were helping to make positive changes in their lives and the lives of their children.

Interviews Do you have a favorite dish or chef?

Coyote Cafe’s world renowned chef Eric Distefano creates incredibly inspiring, contemporary global cuisine that continues to amaze me each time I eat at this famed Santa Fe restaurant. He is a creative genius and I am in awe of his prowess in the kitchen. Eating at Coyote Cafe is a wonderful sensory experience.

Your hometown is Santa Fe, New Mexico what do you recommend to a new visitor to get a flavor for the area?

If you came to Santa Fe, I would tell you to stroll around the city’s historic and colorful Plaza; visit the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and the International Folk Art Museum or any of the other half dozen museums in town; explore the

galleries on Canyon Road; take a hike in the nearby mountains; have a soak and a massage at 10,000 Waves; take in an opera (summer) at the famed Santa Fe Opera House; and catch one of New Mexico’s dramatic sunsets, while having a libation at the Bell Tower Bar of La Fonda Hotel. As for dining, I would recommend Pasqual’s, the Shed or its sister La Choza, the Tune Up Cafe, Dr. Field Goods, Coyote Cafe or Geronimos (for a splurge- worthy dinner), Harry’s Roadhouse....and the list goes on. Make sure to try a green chili cheeseburger and really anything with chili. If you can’t decide whether you want red or green, do as the locals do and order “Christmas,” which means both!

I understand you enjoy hiking, is that how you enjoy your free time?

When I’m not traveling, I love to

hike in the mountains around Santa Fe, cross-country ski in the winter, read and discuss books with my book clubs, go to arts events, volunteer as a docent at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and dine with friends at one of the many good restaurants in town.

More and more luxury purchases are being influenced by technology, a trend that shows no end of slowing down in the coming years. I think the industry’s growth will continue to be solid, but I do wonder whether the widening wealth gap might adversely impact luxury consumption in the future. Only time will tell.

If you were stranded on an island, name one person and three items you would bring.

I would bring my husband, Bob Stone, because he is the most resourceful person I know. As for items, I would

bring a knife, matches/lighter and a fishing pole, all useful articles that would help me survive. As for non material things, I would be sure to bring optimism, patience and perseverance.

What are three necessities you won’t travel without?

Notebook, camera and wet wipes.

What does Luxe Beat Magazine mean to you?

I have great respect for the magazine, as I feel it continues to be a high quality product that brings the best of luxury travel, food/ wine, etc. to readers in a compelling and aesthetically beautiful way.

I am proud to be associated with the magazine, and delighted to be given the opportunity to share my personal travel experiences in my monthly column, “Put a Pin in It!”

151

Decision Serge Marshennikov 20” x 17” Signed and numbered giclee print on canvas

Discover beautiful art, great fiction, a rewards club, layaway plans and much more.

Quent Cordair Fine Art The Finest Romantic Realism in Paintings and Sculpture Established 1996 • 1301 First Street, Napa, CA • 707.255.2242

www.cordair.com

Join Club Cordair, a monthly membership program for acquiring art you love.

LA PAGERIE JO $BSSJBDPV 4FDPOE UP IFBWFO -B 1BHFSJF JT B 'SFODI DPMPOJBM CFBDIGSPOU WJMMB OFTUMFE JO /PSUI /BUVSBM 1BSL PO UIF BVUIFOUJD JTMBOE PG $BSSJBDPV

ɨJT FMFHBOU WJMMB PêFST GPVS FO TVJUF CFESPPNT FBDI XJUI B MBSHF CBUISPPN POF BNQMF DIJME POF BNQMF DIJMESFO CFESPPN JODMVEJOH UXP CFET BOE UXP CBCZ DPUT BOE POF JOEFQFOEFOU TUVEJP GPS UXP

ɨF WJMMB BMTP JOUFHSBUFT B XJEF TVOEFDL JODPSQPSBUJOH B TFB WJFX JOëOJUF QPPM BMMPXJOH GPS VOGPSHFUUBCMF TVOTFUT

ɨF FTUBUF IBT CFFO MBCFMFE iɨF 1FBSM PG UIF $BSJCCFBOw CZ MVYVSZ 57 $IBOOFM -69& 57 8IFO UIF UJNF DPNFT JG IFBWFO EPFT OPU XBOU VT UBLF VT TUSBJHIU UP -B 1BHFSJF 1 8 UI +BO SE 'FC

LA PAGERIE

&YDMVTJWF PìFS (FU PÃLUXEBEAT

$POUBDU VT JORVJSJFT!WJMMBMBQBHFSJF DPN XXX WJMMBMBQBHFSJF DPN