7 minute read
The Path to Portugal
Centuries of trade, pilgrimages, wars and immigration have melded Portugal into a hotbed of cultural diversity and flavor.
STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY BY JD MERRYWEATHER
The Portuguese, known for their beautiful ceramic tiles, fishing prowess and fortified port wines, have always excelled as craftsmen. Besides my interest in Portugal’s wines, my love of history, architecture and culinary experiences placed Portugal high on my travel list. I had an extensive itinerary planned, but, in a moment of clarity, I decided to just focus on Lisbon and Porto.
The two cities have similar locations and terrains. Both are inland ports with wonderful bridges and waterfronts on sizable rivers: Lisbon on the Tagus and Porto on the Douro (river of gold). The streets, sidewalks and alleys are marble cobblestones, creating wonderful patterns but making walking on a wet day risky. Carrying my photo gear over the steep hills, I averaged six and a half miles a day, perfectly justifying the size of my meals that often included whole bottles of wine!
Lisbon, built on seven hills, is the capital of Portugal. A massive 1755 earthquake leveled many of the neighborhoods and cathedrals, but rebuilt Lisbon, with wider streets and updated infrastructure, flourished. My first five days in Lisbon were in the Mouraria section of the Alfama neighborhood, beside the Castle of St. George. Occupation of the original structure predates the Romans and many of its walls were likely constructed by the Moors, who held power until 1147. The castle is also thought to be the origin of Lisbon.
Lisbon has a plethora of ethnic and indigenous cuisine. My first meal in Portugal was a “golden” fish grilled in olive oil and garlic, dressed with a lemon slice and nearly a dozen boiled, peeled potatoes. After 24 hours of travel to get to that meal, if the lunch was any indication of what to expect foodwise, I was in heaven. Afterwards, I hit the streets, anxious to explore, photograph, and start my serious wine research.
Incredible hilltop views from bell towers, overlooks and rooftop patios guided me where to wander next. I visited noted wine bars for specific Portuguese regional wines; not only were the tastings enlightening, the education provided by the proprietors was invaluable and included suggestions of where to dine. Crab, lobster, octopus and hake (codfish) were all on my list as I worked my way around the city. A favorite spot was O Prego, fado club and cafe. The housemade olives served at O Prego blew me away - the unique taste is a result of curing them with garlic and ‘the skin of an orange”.
Fado is Portuguese folk music, the “Music of Lost Love”. Highly dramatic and wonderfully entertaining, fado singers are typically accompanied by guitarists playing traditional six string instruments and the beautifully crafted Portuguese twelve string guitars.
The three-hour train to Porto, 200 miles up the coast, rolls into the city across a tall bridge, providing a spectacular introduction to the lay of the land. Rising from the banks of the Douro River, Porto slopes gradually upward, revealing its density and splendor. I got a strong feeling that my inner oenophile had found a new home!
Researching Porto was the primary reason I wanted to visit Portugal. The region’s wines are famous, but the city also has numerous architectural gems, including the Torre dos Clergies (Clerics Tower), an Italian design baroque church from the mid-1700s; the futuristic Casa da Musica completed in 2005, designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhass, who dropped this spaceship on the city; numerous cathedrals clad in “azulejos”, the beautiful blue and white tiles crafted in Portugal. Specifically, the Church of St. Ildefonso, completed in 1739, has a spectacular azulejos exterior. My love of bridges was satisfied by the Dom Luis I bridge that spans the Douro and connects the city to the south Vila Nova de Gaia district, the location of all the port lodges. The lovely city of Porto is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Church of St. Ildefonso
Torre Dos Clergies
Casa da Musica
I spent the better part of a day “studying” port wine during a private tour and tasting at Cockburn’s, one of the oldest lodges on the south bank. The lodge has an extensive cooperage and it was fascinating to see how they maintain and repair their barrel stock - some being hundreds of years old and in continuous use. Walking the cobbled floors of the lodges, I could feel the history of the surroundings and visualize the precious white and red liquids resting peacefully – becoming a complex sipping wine to be shared around the world. Port winemaking in Porto and the Douro Valley is a unique industry, and I am planning a return trip to study it from the soil to the glass.
Like Lisbon, Porto offers incredible dining. I’ve eaten various octopus dishes all around the world, and by far my favorite experience is at ZA, a little place up the street from my Airbnb on the city’s north side. The Portuguese love garlic, as do I, and I started my meal at ZA with a house specialty, prawns broiled in garlic. They arrived still sizzling from the pan. The owner is the host and waiter, and his wife the chef; the three of us became quick friends, as I wanted to try the whole menu. We decided on octopus paired with the region’s Vallado vinho tinto (red wine). Served grilled over boiled potatoes and a simple olive oil and garlic sauce, the dish screamed flavor and tenderness. Dessert was a cheese plate paired with a few samplings of port, eventually leading to the three of us sharing a bottle after they closed. Perfection!
Fourteen days flew by and I promise I left a few unopened bottles of wine behind. Foodwise, I barely got past the seafood, and Portugal has a huge list of unique delights to be discovered and eleven wine regions, including Maderia and the Azores Islands. I still have a lot of exploring, dining, and tasting to do in Portugal, and I’ve already done the wine research!!
