elle 2022 by Luc Nguyen

AUG FALL FASHION REFRESH MIKAELA SHIFFRIN TELLS HER TRUTH EXCLUSIVE DE ARMAS ANA THE JOURNEYUNLIKELYOF

ROMA FENDI.COM2830520646BOUTIQUESFENDI

Inc.LauderEstée2022© FOR ALL AGES, ALL SKINTONES, ALL SKINTYPES.

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Concept vehicle shown. Not available for sale.

Audi’s futuristic vision: The vehicle becomes an experience device through added living space. Absolute highlight (above): The cockpit is a digital screen. Modern technology meets luxurious simplicity.

“To develop ideas in collaboration with our progressive customers is a core component of our culture here at Audi.”

The AUDI URBANSPHERE CONCEPT CAR promises RELAXATION and ENTERTAINMENT alongside an INNOVATIVE way to travel. WELCOME TO A NEW KIND OF LIVING SPACE

— HENRIK WENDERS, HEAD OF BRAND MANAGEMENT, AUDI HE GREATEST LUXURY OF OUR TIME? Room. Space. Time to unwind. These days, we find ourselves speeding on highways, both metaphorically and literally. Cities are turning into megacities, roads are becoming ever more crowded, and the distances we need to cover—and the time it takes to reach our destinations—are getting longer and longer. This is why Audi developed a revolutionary idea, in close consultation with some of its core customers—the Audi urbansphere concept, a vehicle designed from the inside out and focused on our urban lifestyle. The urbansphere is the third concept car by Audi, in addition to the spectacular Audi skysphere concept vehicle—a sleek roadster transformed into an autonomous grand tourer—and the Audi grandsphere concept, a luxurious electric sedan.

The idea behind the urbansphere concept is to create a vehicle that is more than just a car—but a means of personal space. For some Future

4. Collective use of the infotainment: a large-format, transparent OLED Screen that lowers from the roof and in between the front and back seats. people, that space might be for productivity; for others, relaxation. Think of it as an office or living room on four wheels.

LESS CAR, MORE EXPERIENCE DEVICE

Concept vehicle shown. Not available for sale. Concept vehicle shown. Not available for sale. Concept vehicle shown. Not available for sale. 1 3 2

And if you just want to chill out? The Relax-Mode lets you do exactly that: Reclinable seats and extendable leg rests allow you to stretch out while listening to the soothing sounds of a meditation app through your private speakers, all while enjoying the view through an oversized sunroof.

1. The MMI touchless response within the interior paneling of the doors is controlled via rotary ring and keys. If the seat is reclined, the MMI is managed by a combination of eye-tracking and gesture interaction.

Whether it’s dialing into meetings, streaming movies, or taking advantage of customized events, the Audi urbansphere concept lets you have it all. Four roomy front and back seats give the feeling of traveling in first class. For those who want more privacy, there are integrated privacy screens fitted between each headrest to create a division between the seats. What’s more, each headrest is fitted with its own speakers, and monitors are set into the back of the front seats for passengers in the rear. There’s also a large, transparent screen that lowers from the roof and in between the front and back seats for collective viewing.

We all want more space, especially in stressful times. Audi’s urbansphere concept promises just that. The design team has used its roomy dimensions (18 feet long, 6.5 feet wide, and nearly 6 feet high) to give maximum space and comfort to those who are commuting, rather than the usual approach of including as many seats or as much storage as possible.

The Audi urbansphere concept features elegant flowing lines, with a large, flat windshield, curved roof, and integrated light fixtures. “The show cars embody the next level of our design communication,” explains Audi’s head of design, Marc Lichte. In short, they are an expression of Audi's new approach to design, while also remaining recognizably Audi with maximum freedom in mind. For more information, visit progress.audi/urbansphere-US

3. First-class on-board care with an integrated water fountain in the open passenger compartment.

2. Outward rotating seats ease entering and exiting the vehicle. The privacy collar lets you pause and rest.

A FLOWING SILHOUETTE

LUXURIOUS MOBILITY OF THE FUTURE

“The Audi urbansphere concept enables every passenger to be productive and creative—and allows for momentsextraordinarytobeexperienced.” — HENRIK WENDERS Future Concept vehicle shown. Not available for sale. 4

SOUTHFLYING Ready to experience all the sights and sounds of Colombia for yourself after reading about Maria Claudia ”Cloclo” Echavarría’s wedding (page 62)? Escape to the beach in Barú at Sofitel Barú Calablanca, a favorite of ELLE editor-in-chief (and native Colombian) Nina Garcia. Just in time for summer, the hotel is opening a beachside food truck featuring local favorites, as well as workshops and dance classes with local artists and artisans. soﬁtelbarucalablanca.com.

RESORT:BEACHCALABLANCABARÚSOFITELSORRENTI;MARIOKARDASHIAN: ROSELAERKEBYPHOTOGRAPHEDMODEL:KNITSBOYBLACKFOTOGRAFIA;URIBEXINXINMØLLEGAARD;REMAININGIMAGES:COURTESYOFTHEDESIGNERS.

Summer Lovers

Here’s what we’re obsessed with as the season reaches its peak.

KEEPING UP “It is work,” new skin care entrepreneur (and no stranger to hard work) Kim Kardashian says about her routine. For the launch of SKKN by Kim, Kardashian collaborated with her longtime aesthetician, Joanna Czech, to create a nine-piece collection that includes hardworking ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and exfoliators. The hand-tooled stone packaging was inspired by the ceramics in her own monochromatic home. “People said I should launch with just three products,” Kardashian says. “But that’s not what I use in my own routine. And the magic is when the products all come together.” SKKN by Kim, skknbykim.com.

Trending 2

Jacket, $695, skirt, $450, Coach x Tom Wesselmann, coach.com.

As summer ebbs and thoughts turn to your fall wardrobe, consider Jacques Agbobly of Black Boy Knits, who is creating some of the most exciting knitwear around from their Brooklyn studio. They’ve described their work, with its bold color combinations and layering effects, as an expression of Black joy—and you’d be hard-pressed not to smile while wearing it.

almost too precious to wear. Jean jackets, minis, and more are emblazoned with Wesselmann’s playful images, like the cosmetics and accessories shown here. The range ($55–$2,200) also includes handbags, jewelry, shoes, and home goods that are sure to liven up any space.

WEATHERSWEATER

Turtleneck, $750, top, $500, gloves, $550, Black Boy Knits, made to order at blackboyknits.com.

FLOAT ON Few names are as synonymous with Venice as Fortuny. The storied textile manufacturer, founded in 1907 by Mariano Fortuny, is as renowned for its iconic Delphos dress as for its rich velvets and brocades. Max Mara has collaborated with the brand to channel all the romance of the Floating City with its latest bag, the appropriately named Pasticcino (éclair). And what a treat it is, with hand-loomed silk brocade, a clasp topped with two coordinating Murano glass balls, and a removable chain strap. Pasticcino bag, Weekend Max Mara, $925, maxmara.com.

14 TRENDING 24 EDITOR’S LETTER 25 NINA’S EDIT 26 NEW ARRIVALS The perfect bag, shoe, and watch with which to greet autumn. Front Row 32 FUTURE OF FASHION: THE GEN Z WHISPERER With her brand Parade, Cami Téllez has ushered in a whole new approach to undergarments. By Chantal Fernandez 33 FUTURE OF FASHION: NEW DESIGNERS The emerging names taking fashion in an innovative direction. 35 FUTURE OF FASHION: NEW FRONTIERS On the merging of tech and fashion. 36 FUTURE OF FASHION: NEW IDEAS How collaboration, trend forecasting, and slow fashion are demonstrating an evolved approach to the business. Accessories 39 PARIS, TEXAS Cartier lands in Dallas with a spectacular art exhibit. By Naomi Rougeau 42 MATCH POINT Tennis apparel reigns— both on and off the court. 44 GARDEN PARTY Embrace the season with florals and picnicready accessories. Shop 46 DOMESTIC BLISS Chic orforwhethermust-haves—you’reheadedthemountainsridingthewaves. Beauty 51 DO THE TWIST Margaux spotlightsAnboubaamodern take on the classic chignon. 52 THE COOL CLUB For this season’s skin refresher, look to ice. By Emily Burns August Volume XXXVII Number 10 NO.438 EVANSM.MAUREEN 18

BODYSUIT, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION, $750. BULGARI EDEN THE GARDEN OF WONDERS NECKLACE,EARRINGS,RINGS,BULGARI.

NO.

THE COVER LOOK Ana de Armas wears a polo shirt and hoop earrings from Louis Vuitton and rings from Marie-Hélène de Taillac. Photographed by Christian MacDonald (styled by Alex White; hair by Orlando Pita for Orlando Pita Play; makeup by Mélanie Inglessis at Forward Artists; set design by Todd Wiggins at MHS Artists; produced by 1972 Agency and Callie Rose.SculptingCrystal,CrystalPureQuadEnvymakeupProductions).HouseholderFordeArmas’slook,tryPureColorLuxeEyeShadowinDesertDunes,ColorRevitalizingBalminCosmicandPureColorEnvyBlushinAlluringAll,EstéeLauder. 438

58 RETRO RULES Yesterday’s makeup somehow feels perfect for today. By Marisa Meltzer 60 MS. ROBINSON GOES TO HOLLYWOOD With a new TV show based on her essays, Phoebe Robinson learns how to “Hollywood-ready.”get 62 COLOMBIAN DREAM

Living

Fashion 75 ANA’S GETAWAY Ana de Armas opens up about living a new life in a new city. By Marisa StyledChristianPhotographedMeltzer.byMacDonald.byAlexWhite

The most celebrated names in fashion—Fendi, Chanel, and Armani among them—approached this season with a nod to their past. Photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg. Styled by Alex White

90 HOUSE PROUD

54 TWO BECOME ONE Twins Simi and Haze Khadra have created a beauty line for a new age. By Faran Krentcil 56 WHAT I WISH I’D KNOWN GETTINGBEFOREAFACELIFT Makeup artist Jenny Patinkin shares her experience.

110 EIZA RISING Eiza González has a busy slate of streaming projects and a historymaking role as Bulgari’s first Latina ambassador for North America. By Naomi Rougeau. Photographed by Greg Williams. Styled by Charles Varenne 116 SHOPPING GUIDE 118 HOROSCOPE

StephaniePhotographedByisquestionbymothersrealizenumberincreasingofwomenthattheirwerebetrayedfertilitydoctors,theofrecoursebeingreckonedwith.SarahTreleaven.byMei-Ling

GUIDE.SHOPPINGSEEDETAILS,FORWILLIAMS;GREG 20

The wedding of Sí Collective cofounder Maria Claudia “Cloclo” Echavarría to theLiechtensteinJosef-EmanuelPrinceofcelebratedbride’shomecountry. Perspectives 66 MIKAELA SHIFFRIN IS STILL THE BEST SKIER IN THE WORLD After suffering the loss of her father and enduring mental health struggles, the Olympian is coming back stronger than ever. By Rose Minutaglio. Photographed by Caleb Santiago Alvarado 70 WHEN THE DOCTOR IS IN YOUR DNA As an

August Volume XXXVII Number 10

ELLE is published by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019.

The ELLE trademark and logo are owned by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), a Lagardère Active Group company.

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FASHION Senior Market Editor SARAH ZENDEJAS Credits Editor CAITLIN MULLEN Market Editor JADE VALLARIO Fashion Associate KEVIN LEBLANC Assistant Fashion Editor ROSIE JARMAN Fashion and Accessories Assistant MADISON REXROAT FEATURES Senior Fashion Features Editor NAOMI ROUGEAU Associate Editor ADRIENNE GAFFNEY Assistant Editor JULIANA UKIOMOGBE BEAUTY Beauty Editor MARGAUX ANBOUBA Assistant Beauty Editor EMILY BURNS ART AND DESIGN Art Director KATELYN BAKER Senior Digital Designer LEAH ROMERO Designer HANNA DAY-TENEROWICZ Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief SAMUEL MAUDE HEARST VISUAL GROUP Deputy Visual Director FIONA LENNON Senior Visual Researcher MEGAN A. VICTORIA Associate Producer SAMEET SHARMA COPY AND RESEARCH Copy Chief TERRI SCHLENGER Research Chief BRENDÁN CUMMINGS Research Editor LAURA ASMUNDSSON PRODUCTION Operations Account Manager MARIA FERNANDEZ Premedia Account Manager JEAN-NATE FONTE Digital Imaging Specialist REBECCA IOVAN International Coordinator MONIQUE BONIOL Editorial Business Director CAROL LUZ Editorial Business Manager KATE REMULLA ELLE.COM Digital Director JESSICA ROY Deputy Editor CLAIRE STERN Beauty Director CHLOE HALL Features Editor KATHERINE KRUEGER Senior Culture Editor ERICA GONZALES Senior News and Strategy Editor ALYSSA BAILEY Senior Writer MADISON FELLER Senior Social Media Editor CARINE LAVACHE Staff Writer ROSE MINUTAGLIO Beauty E-Commerce Editor NERISHA PENROSE Beauty E-Commerce Writer TATJANA FREUND Associate Editor LAUREN PUCKETT-POPE Associate Fashion Commerce Editor MEG DONOHUE Photo Editor YOUSRA ATTIA Video Producer LAURA HACKER Senior Video Editor KAMERON KEY After Effects Artist ALINA PETRICHYN DP/Editor TOM JEZIK WORLD’S LEADING FASHION MAGAZINE • 45 INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS Argentina • Australia • België • Belgium • Bulgaria • Canada • China • Croatia • Czech Republic • Denmark • Finland • France • Germany • Greece • Holland • Hong Kong • Hungary • India • Indonesia • Italy • Japan • Kazakhstan • Korea • Malaysia • Mexico • Norway • Oriental • Poland • Portugal • Quebec • Romania • Serbia • Singapore • Slovenia • South Africa • Spain • Sweden • Taiwan • Thailand • Turkey • Ukraine • United Kingdom • USA • Vietnam PUBLISHED BY HEARST President and Chief Executive Officer STEVEN R. SWARTZ Chairman WILLIAM R. HEARST III Executive Vice Chairman FRANK A. BENNACK, JR. Chief Operating Officer MARK E. ALDAM HEARST MAGAZINE MEDIA, INC. President DEBI CHIRICHELLA Chief Content Officer KATE LEWIS Chief Financial and Strategy Officer; Treasurer REGINA BUCKLEY Senior Vice President, Consumer Revenue and Development BRIAN MADDEN President, Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT Secretary CATHERINE A. BOSTRON Publishing Consultants GILBERT C. MAURER, MARK F. MILLER Founding Editor RÉGIS PAGNIEZ

ELLEAROUNDTHEWORLD.COM

MARTIN HOOPS Executive Design Director

ERIN HOBDAY Executive Managing Editor

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VÉRONIQUE HYLAND Fashion Features Director

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For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wright’s Reprints, 877-652-5295 or bkolb@wrightsreprints.com.

For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wright’s Reprints, 877-652-5295 or bkolb@wrightsreprints.com. ELLE is published by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), a Lagardère Active Group company. Copyright © 2022. Printed in the United States of America. CAROL A. SMITH Senior Vice President, Group Publishing Director Senior Vice President, Publishing Director JACK ESSIG Vice President, General Manager ANNE WELCH Vice President, Marketing BRENT WILLIAMS ALLEN Executive Director, Advertising Business Operations JEANINE TRIOLO Group Executive Marketing Director & Sales Strategy LISA PIANA Vice President, Sales CHRIS PEEL Chief Brand Officer, Hearst Luxury Collection E-Commerce KEN DOWNING Group Finance Manager RON SABATINI Executive Assistant/Business Associate DANA WENTZEL

Senior Marketing Director, Research & Brand Development ALEXANDRA STETZER Associate Marketing Director, Research & Brand Development MELANIE SINGER ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Advertising Services Director MICHAEL NIES Senior Advertising Services Manager MICHELLE LUIS CREATIVE SERVICES Executive Creative Director THEA KARAS Senior Art Director JESSICA TSOUPLAKIS Creative Director FRAUKE EBINGER Art Director ALICE STEVENS CIRCULATION Vice President, Retail Sales JIM MILLER Vice President, Group Consumer Marketing Director RICK DAY EVENTS & PROMOTIONS Executive Marketing Director, Events & Promotions KAREN MENDOLIA Associate Marketing Director, Events & Promotions JESSICA HEINMILLER PRODUCTION & ADMINISTRATION Senior Billing Coordinator JONELLE DUNCAN ELLEINTERNATIONAL.COMELLECUSTOMERSERVICE ELLE INTERNATIONAL, A DIVISION OF LAGARDÈRE NEWS CEO CONSTANCE BENQUÉ CEO ELLE International Licenses FRANÇOIS CORUZZI SVP/International Director of ELLE VALÉRIA BESSOLO LLOPIZ Fashion Editor CHARLOTTE DEFFE Beauty & Celebrity Editor VIRGINIE DOLATA Syndication Director SÉVERINE LAPORTE Syndication Coordinator MONIQUE BONIOL Copyrights Manager KENZA ALLAL Database Manager PASCAL IACONO Digital & Graphic Design Director MARINE LE BRIS Marketing Director MORGAN ROHÉE INTERNATIONAL AD SALES HOUSE LAGARDÈRE GLOBAL ADVERTISING SVP/International Advertising JULIAN DANIEL jdaniel@lagarderenews.com Call: 800-876-8775 Email: elmcustserv@cdsfulﬁllment.comVisit:service.elle.com Write: Customer Service Department ELLE P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037 ELLE® is used under license from the trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse, a subsidiary of Lagardère SCA. BRANCH OFFICES Executive Sales Director, West Coast MARJAN DIPIAZZA Executive Sales Director, Midwest AUTUMN JENKS Executive Sales Director, Southwest LUCINDA WEIKEL lucinda@wnpmedia.com Sales Director, West Coast JASON YASMENT Sales Director, Southeast RITA WALKER rita@mandelmediagroup.com

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INTEGRATED ADVERTISING SALES Group Executive Director, Beauty & Lifestyle JOANNA NOWACK MELISSAKIS Group Executive Director, Fashion & Luxury AARON S. KRANSDORF Senior Executive Sales Director, Luxury KATE SLAVIN Executive Sales Directors, Fashion PAULA FORTGANG, JOHN WATTIKER Executive Sales Director, Luxury CARYN KESLER Executive Sales Directors, Beauty ANGELA PARAUDA, JILL SCHLANGER-SLIVKA Executive Sales Director, Travel RW HORTON Executive Sales Director, Lifestyle TAMMY COHEN Senior Sales Director, Beauty LAUREN DEL VALLE Senior Sales Director, Fashion MICHAEL RIGGIO Senior Sales Manager, Direct Media ANGELA HRONOPOULOS Sales Assistants OLIVIA BENSON, HALLEY DEONARINE, AALIA MEHRA, AMANDA SHEERIN INTEGRATED MARKETING Executive Marketing Directors SARAH CLAUSEN, ALEXANDRA KEKALOS, DANA MENDELOWITZ, LINDSAY SABLE Senior Marketing Director AIMEE COUTURE Marketing Director SARA OLDMIXON Associate Marketing Director DEAN FRYN Senior Marketing Manager BRIANA ROTELLO Marketing Managers GINNY DURKIN, EMILY LYNCH Associate Marketing Manager

or actress Ana de Armas, finding a place to call home has been a lifelong quest. This month’s cover star has now happily settled on the East Coast, away from the Hollywood fishbowl. (She calls L.A. “a city that keeps you anxious.”) Coming from Cuba, where she grew up with food rationing and power blackouts, de Armas has never fully considered herself an insider. As an immigrant myself, I can relate to this feeling of displacement and wistful longing for the country of your birth. “I assumed—and I say this with real embarrassment—because she had come from Cuba, that she had just arrived,” says her Knives Out costarJamieLeeCurtis.“Imadeanassumption thatshewasaninexperienced,unsophisticatedyoungwoman.” She would quickly learn that de Armas was not someone to be F underestimated. It hasn’t been easy to get to where she is, and all her achievements reflect her prodigious acting talent. This summer,she’llflexthoseskillsinTheGray Man with Ryan Gosling, Chris Evans, and Regé-Jean Page. A fellow game-changing Latina actress,EizaGonzález,alsogracesourpages this month, posing from high above the rooftops of London—a fitting setting for this fast-rising star, Bulgari’s first Latina brand ambassador for North America.

@NINAGARCIA NINAGARCIA @NINAGARCIAOFFICIAL

Getting drop-dead gorgeous doesn’t have to be drop-dead serious. Just look at PhoebeRobinson’slaugh-out-loudaccount ofhowshegotherself“Hollywood-ready” intimeforhersemi-autobiographicalshow Everything’sTrash,nowairingonFreeform.

STAR

GUIDE.SHOPPINGSEEDETAILS,FORMACDONALD;CHRISTIAN

Editor’s Letter

staffWinterdisappointingcrushingingtalentermagical62manyartisans,talent,ditions,celebratedwhatCartagena,Liechtenstein—spreadweddingMariaWhenIattendedSíCollectivecofounderClaudia“Cloclo”Echavarría’stoPrinceJosef-EmanuelofoveraweekinBarú,andBogotá,Colombia—struckmemostwashowtheeventsthecountry’sresources,tra-andimmensestoresofcreativenotonlyfashiondesignersbutalsoillustrators,musicians,andsomore.Considerourreportonpageyourowninvitationtoexplorethesedestinations.Asanavidskierandlongtimeadmir-ofMikaelaShiffrin,I’minaweofherandresiliency.Duringachalleng-periodinherlife,shebeganfeelingself-doubtthatculminatedinaperformanceatthisyear’sOlympics,asshetellsELLE.comwriterRoseMinutaglio.Femaleath-

letes from Naomi Osaka to Simone Biles have brought about a revolutioninthewaywetalkaboutmentalhealthinsports.Now Shiffrin is opening up about her own struggles, learning to let go of the shame around them, and not letting the sport define her. I’m proud that ELLE can be a forum for these important conversations.“I’madifferentpersonthanIwas,”shesays,“and I didn’t want to hide what I’m feeling anymore.” POWER

At ELLE, we make it a point to highlight those who are forging new paths in fashion. Our third annual Future of Fashion package includes Chantal Fernandez’s profile of Cami Téllez, the Parade cofounder who’s shaking up the way we see lingerie; Isabel B. Slone’s report on how TikTok became a haven for a newtypeoftrendforecaster;andanexcitingcropofup-and-comingdesignerswho arechangingthewaywethinkaboutbody diversity and sustainability.

HOODIE, $3,400, SNEAKERS, $640, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE. RINGS, MARIEHÉLÈNE DE TAILLAC, FROM $850. SOCKS, FALKE, $23.

1. Sandal, The Row, $1,090, therow.com. 2. Cuff, Cano, $275, canojewelry.com. 3. Bodysuit, Jacquemus, $310, jacquemus.com. 4. Ring, Cano, $275, canojewelry.com.

BRANDS.ANDDESIGNERSTHEOFCOURTESYIMAGES:REMAINING

Nina’s Edit Gold STANDARD 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

5. Skirt, Schiaparelli, $2,700, schiaparelli.com. 6. Oyster dishes, Giambattista Valli, $660 (sold individually), modaoperandi.com. 7. Pure Gold Radiance Nocturnal Balm, La Prairie, $975, laprairie.com. 8. Handbag, Bulgari, $2,750, bulgari.com. 9. Earrings, Cano, $250, canojewelry.com.

BOGOTÁ’S MUSEO DEL ORO.

Taken with the work of Bogotá-based jewelry houseCano, ELLE editor-in-chief Nina Garcia exploresthelinksbetweenpre-ColumbianmotifsandSurrealism.

COLOMBIA;OFREPUBLICTHEOFRODRIGUEZ/BANKMANUELCLARKORO:DELMUSEO

Ralph Lauren brings us the ultimate day bag with the new Polo ID line in a tasteful combo of canvas and leather. Polo ID envelope handbag, Polo Ralph Lauren, $598, ralphlauren.com.

New Arrivals

The BAG DESIGNER.THEOFCOURTESY 26

New Arrivals These are not your average back-to-school Mary Janes: Bottega Veneta elevates a classic to vertiginous new heights. Pump, Bottega Veneta, bottegaveneta.com. The SHOE KATOH).MIAKOBY(STYLEDDWESTBROOK/STUDIOJEFFREY 28

Don’t be late! Van Cleef & Arpels’s latest rendition of its Toi & Moi concealed timepiece hits boutiques September 1. Perlée Toi & Moi secret watch, Van Cleef & Arpels, vancleefarpels.com. The WATCHDESIGNER.THEOFCOURTESY 29

JOIN OUR MAILING LIST FOR ACCESS TO EDITOR FAVORITES, INVITATIONS TO INSIDER EVENTS, AND COMPLIMENTARY EXPRESS SHIPPING WITH FIRST PURCHASE. The exclusive way to ShopBAZAAR.com

FUTURE OF FASHION Front Row Upcycled couture. TikTok trend gurus.AI designers. The fashion landscape is changingseemingly by the minute. Allow us to catch you up. AN IMAGE FROM THE SERIES LONDON EDITION, CREATED FOR BLACK FASHION FAIR.

Téllez describes the relationship with this community as “inspired co-creation” and sees it as the way of the future—not just of Parade, but the fashion industry. “It’s the step past inclusion,” she says. This collective approach was key to the development of Parade’s first “gender-expansive” collection, which launched this summer thanks to a group of Parade Friends who tested and ideated new styles including pouched boxer briefs, a playsuit, and tank tops designed to be flattering, comfortable, and supportive for people of all gender expressions.

THE GEN Z WHISPERER Parade’s Cami Téllez is reimagining lingerie for a new generation—and taking fashion to “the step past inclusion.” By Chantal Fernandez

Front Row

Following a clever launch strategy of gifting its underwear to just about every cool Gen Zer on Instagram, it has continued to grow through sold-out collaborations with the likes of Juicy Couture. Its community now numbers over 10,000 ambassadors, or Parade Friends, who spread the word about the brand in exchange for early access to products, free samples, exclusive experiences, and the encouragement to post themselves posing in their newest skivvies on Instagram—that is, if they’re comfortable doing so. (The most involved Parade Friends, part of the label’s Gold program, are paid, too.) Parade’s community is now more than just a megaphone; the team consults with themoneffortslikedevelopingalineofnude-tonedunderwear.

“The creative direction is not about selling this product or lifestyle,” Téllez says, but “creating images and new narratives that inspire people to express themselves as they really are.”

“There are watershed brands that have redefined how brands should think, feel, act, and create,” Téllez says. “My goal is that Parade will be one of them.”

ABOVE, FROM LEFT: CAMI TÉLLEZ; A COLORFUL LOOK FROM PARADE.

Téllez had picked up on a cultural shift when she cut short her studies at Columbia University three years ago to launch Parade as a direct-to-consumer brand. The fashion industry was reckoning with how it uses exclusivity to sell its wares, and how it has failed to represent its audiences—both in the people it highlighted in its advertising and those it promoted behind the scenes. (A first-generation Latina, Téllez is one of the few female CEOs of color in the space.) Some lingerie brands have paid lip service to being more inclusive in their offerings, while labels like Savage X Fenty and Aerie have begun putting forward a more expansiveParadevision.setout to champion self-expression and accessibility. It offered $8 thongs and $28 bralettes in recycled fabrics— released in drops with kitschy themes (ice cream, fruit salad) whose innocence contrasted with the overt sexuality of its competitors. In its campaigns, models representing a range of skintones,bodyshapes,andgender identities pose in underwear in shades like Area 51 green. The brand identity is more playful than titillating, offering a reprieve from the objectification long associated with lingerie.

CAMI TÉLLEZ ISN’T AFRAID of a little neon. On a recent rainy afternoon, the 24-year-old CEO and creative director opens the door to her Tribeca apartment in a silky chartreuse blouse and trousers. Parade, the irreverent underwear brand she launched with cofounder Jack DeFuria in 2019—backed by $3.5 million from venture capital investors—has a new office a few minutes’ walk away. But Téllez still frequently works from hergiantcirculardining-roomtable,surroundedbycoffee-table books. One focuses on photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his campaigns for United Colors of Benetton, while another, titled The Art of Playboy, is full of the surreal and sensual images that filled the magazine’s pages in the 1960s. The books—and the brand they helped germinate—represent a different aesthetic universe than the one Téllez encountered while buying bras as a teenager at the local mall in New Jersey. Back then, she felt alienated by the lingerie category’s “one-note sexiness.” She saw a future for an underwear brand that recognized its shoppers were more nuanced. “I think a part of me is trying to maybe redeem the category, and redeem an inner child,” she says. “There’s a sense of, ‘How do we create product and brand moments that can be playful without necessarily sexualizing the body, while allowing for self-expression and sexuality?’ ”

FUTURE OF FASHION

FOR A YOUNG Swedish designer with little name recognition on this side of the Atlantic, there’s no higher praise than having a member of the Kardashian team slide into your inbox and inquire about buying your pieces— or nearly your entire spring collection.

NE DESIGNERS

JADE CROPPER THE SCANDI BODY-CON WHIZ

PAGE:PREVIOUS EDITIONLONDON

ESTER MANAS THE DIVERSITYBODYPIONEERS

PARADEWILSON;SOPHIATÉLLEZ:PAGES:TWOTHESEPINKERTON.AMBERBYPHOTOGRAPHEDMODEL: SUBJECT.THEOFCOURTESYCROPPER:FOCANT;PAULINEBYPHOTOGRAPHEDMODEL:MANASESTERBRAND;THEOFCOURTESYMODEL:

—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND

“IN2018,itwasnotsocool,”saysEster Manas of body inclusivity in fashion. That was the year she and her label’s codesigner and cofounder, Balthazar Delepierre, both alums of visual arts school La Cambre in Brussels, presented a collection titled Big Again at theHyèresfashionfestival.Itgrewout ofamagazine, Big,thatManascreated for her La Cambre entrance exam to call out fashion’s valorization of thinness. The two, who have interned at majorParishouses,feltthathighfashion often leaves out curvier women. So, inspired by an IKEA extendable table,theyincludedﬂexible,one-sizeﬁts-all looks that accommodate every size, from XS to 3XL. Fortheirfall2022collection,titled Come As You Are, the two presented their wares on an array of body types, an all-too-rare sight at Paris Fashion Week, where most collections were either shown on slim models or featuredoneortwotokenizedcurvybodies. “It’s always moving to watch the models after the show,” Delepierre says. “A lot of them are crying because it’s super emotional.” Manas adds that at one show she was a part of, the models took off the looks the moment the show ended. Not so on her runway. “With us,” she says, “they stay.Theytakepicturesintheclothes.”

JustaskJadeCropper.Bornandbredin Stockholm, the 32-year-old started her eponymous brand amid the dumpster firethatwas2020,rightaftergraduating fromtheprestigiousBeckmansCollege of Design in her hometown, and soon found herself fielding requests from KimK’sstylist,VenedaCarter.Itdoesn’t hurtthatCropper’smeticulouslycrafted aesthetic is easily distinguishable from that of her Scandinavian peers, thanks to overtly sexy body-con silhouettes, curvingseams,andprecisecutsthatexpose slices of torso, as well as inventive techniques that enable each garment to be worn in myriad ways. She credits hergrandmotherasinspiration—aconfident, independent, outgoing woman who lived life on her own terms and had an eye for sustainability. The latter is another core value for Cropper, who makes use of several eco-conscious practices, from sourcing deadstock fabrics and recycled materials to dropping collections in limited quantities, all made in Sweden. Currently, she’s a team of one, but maybe not for long. Since nabbing the coveted Talent Slot at Copenhagen Fashion Week for fall2022,gettingherwaresonJuliaFox, andbeingnamedELLESweden’s2022 Newcomer of the Year, Cropper has received boatloads of industry attention, and more Instagram requests from the firstfamilyofrealityTV.“KylieJenneris going to buy two pieces,” she says. Your move, Kendall.—CLAIRE STERN

Front Row

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THE CONTEXT EXPLODER

WHENSOHEEPARKhappenedtocatchaChanelcouture show on TV from her home in Seoul, it changed the course of her life. “The set design, the models, the music, the lighting, everything,” she rhapsodizes. “The clothes, obviously, I just instantly fell in love with.” That moment sent her down a YouTube rabbit hole of runway videos and designer interviews (including with Marc Jacobs, whom she went on to work for). She became, she says, “possessed,” poring over fashion sketches and applying to Central Saint Martins. “I had to do a lot of convincing my Korean parents why I, all of a sudden, wanted to go to London and study fashion,” she says, “but they trusted me.” At CSM, “the tutors encouraged metobethemostextremeversionofmyself,”adirectivethat resulted in over-the-top couture creations that mimicked hothouse flowers. Cardi B and Miley Cyrus ended up wearing items from her graduate collection. “I really appreciate the handwork that gets put into [couture],” she says, “and I wanted to translate it in my own way.”

NextupforAlleyne:layingthegroundworkforafashionand arts camp in the Cayman Islands, which should help ensure a new generation gets to tell its own stories.—V.H.

SQUINTING AT WHAT I presume is a luxury logo on Jawara Alleyne’s zip-up fleece, I realize that it says Pizza Hut.Thedesigner,whogrewupinJamaicaandtheCayman Islands before relocating to London, is a master of recontextualizing garments, whether that means reimagining deadstock from his own archives or upcycling thrift-store finds. It’s a practice in line with the culture that raised him. In the Caribbean, he says, “Everything is circular. Nothing is useless; everything gets used and repurposed andAlleynerecontextualized.”hasbecomeknownformenswearthatchallenges received ideas about what men’s clothing can be (his work is “easy, light, fluid, and effortless,” he says, as opposed to “constructed and regimented and rigid”) and includes unexpectedelements,liketorsocutouts.Afterestablishinghisfashion reputation in London (“It was a lot of people saying, ‘Oh, do you know Jawara?’ ” he recalls), he was selected for the city’s prestigious Fashion East incubator. This season marked his first solo runway show in London, and he brought back womenswearaspartofhislineupofslashed,distressedpieces inspired by his island upbringing. “Ihaveaveryspecificstorytotell,”hesays.“Itismystory, but it’s not a story about me. It’s a story about a group of people whom I think a lot of people can identify with.” He sees his work as the answer to centuries of Caribbean-inspired fashion made by outsiders. “That idea of multiculturalism is something that fashion always tried to do, but never really managed to hit the mark, because the people telling those storieswerenotpeoplewho[came]fromtheseexperiences.”

OF FASHION

ALLEYNEJAWARA

Now 26, Park has created two couture collections (fall 2022wassupportedbyDolce&Gabbanaandfeaturedupcycled materials from its archives), and says the métier is more vital than ever, even among her screen-besotted generation. “The world has transitioned in a way where everything is so fast,” she observes. “On social media, there are all these trends happening constantly, but then it just dies every second. Tradition is something that can live on forever.”—V.H.

FUTURE MISS SOHEE THE NEXT-GEN COUTURIER

Among her first and most challenging pieces were a bucket hat and a pair of block-heeled sandals fashioned from defunct cables, which caught the eye of APOC Store founders Ying Suen (who also acted as her primary mentor) and Jules Volleberg. Requests for custom pieces have come flooding in via Instagram, and Swedish singer Snoh Aalegra is a fan of the bags Akinola creates from secondhand fleece garments, logos intact. With so many of Akinola’s raw materials coming from sustainability-minded brands such as Nike and Patagonia (not to mention her interest in sports), a collaboration seems only natural. Here’s hoping.—N.R.

JURASSICUPCYCLINGWUNDERKINDTHETECH

NEW

SUPREMETHECOULDRUNNERSSPACEBENEXT

Two years after Hanifa designer Anifa Mvuemba shook up fashion month with her 3D digital runway show, designers continue to seek new ways to push boundaries, not only in terms of how they present their work, but also in their creative processes. Enter Younhee Park of the Korean label Greedilous, who teamed up with Tilda—a virtual human and AI artist created by LG to specialize in pattern design—for her fall 2022 show at New York Fashion Week. There was no overflowing moodboard, simply two words: ﬂower and Venus. From there, Tilda created hundreds of patterns, which informed the collection’s bold prints and have since sparked interest from Miley Cyrus. Park offered another nod to her collaborator, giving her models brightly-colored bobbed wigs that resembled Tilda’s own hair and were an extension of the vibrant, futuristic aesthetic of the metaverse. “I saw potential in Tilda’s artwork right away when I was introduced to her,” Park has said. “It fit like a glove within my fashion philosophy. And I am so thrilled with how it turned out.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU

THE TOOKLABELDESIGNEDAI-THATONNYFW

FRONTIERS 35

Like many pandemic-era grads, UKbased Tega Akinola was unsure what the near future would hold as far as job prospects. But over the last year, the upcycled accessories she’s dreamed up—often made from obsolete tech items and created at home with the help of her seamstress mother—have afforded the unlikely designer (she studied sports and exercise psychology) a full-time gig. “I wasn’t consciously thinking about sustainability,” Akinola says. “Upcycling was something I had to do, because I didn’t have money to buy new things.”

Have Decentraland wearables left you wanting a bit more than crypto company logo tees and basic hoodies for your metaverse look? Space Runners, the first NFT metaverse fashion brand and the largest independent fashion project on blockchain, is prioritizing both design and portability (to any metaverse of your choosing). Cofounded last year by former McKinsey consultant Won Soh and Deniz Özgür, the company has capitalized on sneaker culture by cleverly partnering with NBA stars to offer owners such perks as game tickets and signed merchandise. This year, thanks in part to a significant round of funding co-led by Polychain and Pantera Capital, the goal is rounding out both digital and physical apparel offerings (space suits!) and becoming the goto marketplace for fashion brands in the metaverse by offering immersive shopping experiences online. Creative director Rohan Chhabra, a Nike and Ralph Lauren vet, “is always so excited because metaverse designs are limitless. You’re no longer bounded by physics,” Soh says. “Some of the wearables we’re currently designing for our second- and third-generation collections, like our rocket-booster sneakers, are designed to fly. Others transform into pets.”—N.R.

THE TYPICAL FASHION narrative involves a star skyrocketing to fame. But behind every name is a cadre of collaborators. Though social media has enabled even newcomers to earn global accolades, more designers are thinking collective—and hyperlocal. Brooklynbased Gogo Graham has tapped industry friends across disciplines for her shows, while Pyer Moss’s Kerby JeanRaymond has launched Your Friends in New York with the luxury conglomerate Kering to nurture creatives.

Antoine Gregory has enough jobs to ﬁll several résumés: fashion editor, consultant, brand director of Theophilio, and founder of the Black Fashion Fair. Launched in 2020, the latter project grew out of his desire to archive great Black designers past and present. “We want to make sure that we’re supporting brands right now, so that we can make sure that they exist 20 to 30 years from now,” he says. The group has also launched a magazine highlighting Black fashion talent. Across the pond, another collective seeking to give newcomers exposure, community, and, most of all, freedom is CONGREGATIONdesign, an anonymous London-based group that allows designers to show via lookbooks, prompt-based collections, and events. The only focus is creativity—not sales. Founder Marie (who declined to give herlastname)saysCongregationthrives in flux. “It’s more about saying, ‘This is not working. Maybe that would,’ to keep engaging [in] new processes—trial and error—because we love to make mistakes.” The in-between area is uncomfortable for many, as fashion has regularly operated as an in-or-out system for so long, but designers are now refuting that as they create new avenues for a slow, thoughtful approach that has no bottom line. As Marie says, “The most important thing, and the answer, is always the next project.”

Local collectives are pushing back against fashion’s obsession with star designers.

COMMUNITY PROPERTY

—KEVINLEBLANC AN IMAGE OF PYER MOSS COUTURE FROM BLACK FASHION FAIR VOLUME 0.

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FOR 164 YEARS, haute couture has been the pinnacle of fashion, melding world-class savoir faire with glamorous notions of dressing. At the other end of the spectrum are mass-market collections churned out at a pace many designers can’t keep up with. An emerging vanguard of designers is splitting the difference between the ease of ready-to-wear and the strictures of haute couture, putting aside trend cycles in favor of sustainably made, artful garments, released when they’re ready. This midpoint of slow(er) fashion has been christened demi-couture. Dutch couturier Ronald van der Kemp creates collections called Wardrobes made from repurposed scraps of fabric from overstock, vintage collections, and factory waste. For him, upcycling comes naturally. “I’m not going to talk about sustainability [constantly],” he says. “I just want to make clothes.” German-born, Londonbased designer Johannes Warnke crafts avant-garde garments that reflect the use of space, sound, and color in clothing. He handdyes fabric and achieves a sumptuous, silky feel with Tencel Luxe, a botanical silk alternative composed of renewable wood sources. (Tencel Luxe is a sponsor of his.) Still, he admits: “When you’re making something new, it’s never going to be fully sustainable. Not making anything new is the most sustainable [thing].” Designer Conner Ives shows just once a year, to give himself the time to ensure his offerings are technically perfect. But he doesn’t want to be known for being a sustainable designer, echoing Van der Kemp’s sentiment: “I need to make really good clothes. I need to trick the consumer into thinking that it is the same as a dress that was cut from raw virgin material.” He’s found his sweet spot by using couture techniques while eschewing old-school timelines and business models. One of his creations was shown at The Met’s Costume Institute, so it seems people are taking note, regularity be damned.—K.L.

a return of “indie sleaze” set off a media firestorm, speeding up the timeline of Lee’s prophecy. Ironically, by making their trend predictions public instead of private, these forecasters now appear to be driving trends rather than foreseeing them.

THE

How TikTok became fashion’s crystal ball. By Isabel B. Slone

TIKTOK

A LOOK BY RONALD VAN DER KEMP. TREND

@OLDLOSERINBROOKLYN.MANDYFORECASTERLEE,AKA

Historically, trend forecasting has been an opaque business: Analysts spend months assessing runways, world news, and even strangers on the subway to make predictions as far as three years in advance. But due to reverberations caused by the pandemic, we’ve entered a moment when everything familiar has been disrupted— fine, call it a vibe shift—and traditional methods no longer apply. “Foresight is no longer in the hands of futurists,” says Eve Lee, founder of creative agency/internet and youth culture specialist The Digital Fairy. Can it really be called “forecasting” if each foretold fad is adopted almost immediately? “Social media has created this notion of the super-relevant, spicy present that is ever-fleeting,” says Agus Panzoni, a trend spokesperson for an online clothing reseller who goes by @thealgorythm on TikTok. In a bid to stay informed, consumers embrace these reports as directives rather than waiting to see if the predictions materialize. While instant access to future fads may seem to democratize fashion, the result is an exhaustion with the trend cycle itself. Many of the original trend forecasters are bypassing the predictions they pioneered over concerns that their reports are being taken too literally, or a desire to distance themselves from the faux-casters diluting the genre. “The first viral video I ever made was about how microtrends will cause the trend cycle to implode,” Lee says. “I stand behind that.”

IF YOU’VE NOTICED STORIES predicting nebulous trends like “indie sleaze,” “night luxe,” or something called “2014 Tumblr girl aesthetic,” you have TikTok trend forecasters to thank. A number of young creators are making a name for themselves by producing content that predicts oddly specific aesthetics like “Parisian ballet” and “coastal grandmother” as the next big thing. It seems that the only thing hotter than the trends is predicting them. The phenomenon can be traced back to Mandy Lee (@oldloserinbrooklyn), whose October 2021 TikTok predicting ATTACK OF THE FORECASTERSTREND ALL-INWORLD OF DEMI-COUTURE

For a new class of designers, seasonal schedules and nonstop production have become passé.

Town

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FROM LEFT: MARIANA HOCHSCHILD, MARGOTH ZAIDAN, NINA GARCIA, AND KINGA LAMPERT PRESIDENT & CEO POMELLATO AMERICAS NATHALIE DIAMANTIS AND ELLE EDITOR IN CHIEF NINA GARCIA LA GIOIA DI , BAZAAR, &

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This spring, ELLE and Pomellato partnered on an exclusive dinner celebrating the unveiling of Pomellato’s high jewelry collection, La Gioia di Pomellato. The event was cohosted by ELLE Editor in Chief Nina Garcia and President and CEO Pomellato Americas Nathalie Diamantis. Guests enjoyed a private ﬁrst-look and try-on of the latest collection followed by an intimate dinner overlooking the ocean at Four Seasons at the Surf Club in Surfside, Florida. MORE AT POMELLATO.COM

With Cartierand IslamicArt:In SearchofModernity,the house’s latest dazzling exhibitfinds a fitting homeat the MuseumDallasofArt. PARIS,TEXAS Accessories PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG

e it gravity-defying hair or gobstopper-sized baubles, Texans do everything on a grand scale. And the latest exhibition to grace the Lone Star State is no exception. Through September18,theDallasMuseumofArtplays host to Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, a window into founder Louis-François Cartier’s son Louis J.’s extensive travels and fervent collecting, and the inﬂuence the Arab world, India, and Persia had on his work.

Expanding on the initial exhibit at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs (also the site of major Islamic art exhibitions in 1903 and 1912, which Louis J. Cartier himself attended), the show pulls together over 400 objects from Cartier, the DMA, and the Louvre, to name a few. Diller Scoﬁdio + Renfro of The High Line fame worked its magic on the exhibit’s design. The show examines how Islamic art, architecture, and (of course) jewelry found their way into Cartier’s stylistic language, with B geometric motifs evolving into Art Deco. “The design strategies in this exhibition—motif, pattern, color, and form—reveal the inspirations, innovations, and aesthetic wonder present in the works of the Maison Cartier,” exhibition co-curator Sarah Schleuning has said. “Through the lens of Islamic art, it reveals how the Maison migrates and manifests these styles over time, as well as how they are shaped by individual creativity.”

—NAOMI ROUGEAU “The exhibit reveals how the Maison migrates and manifests these styles over time.”

Accessories

Among the most breathtaking works on display: a white diamond snake necklace created in 1919 (page 39). Its curved surface is exceptional for European jewelry design at the time.

—Sarah Schleuning, co-curator

The bazuband bracelet (above) takes its inspiration from the Mughal dynasty and is designed to be worn around the upper arm—though it can be transformed into a pendant, brooch, or corsage. Meanwhile, visitors are sure to be green with envy once they catch a glimpse of the 143.23-carat emerald necklace (right), inﬂuenced by Persian fringe motifs, that Lady Granard ordered from Cartier in 1932.

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17. African Beauty Butter in Ugandan Vanilla + Ethiopian Honey, 54 Thrones, $24, 54thrones.com. Backpack, Cotopaxi, $100, cotopaxi.com. Shorts, Banana Republic, $90, bananarepublic.com.

Utilitarian items 1 4 6 7 10 12 17 18 19 9 2 3 8 5 1. Sweatshirt, Polo Ralph Lauren, $110, ralphlauren .com. 2. Sunglasses, District Vision, $250, districtvision .com. 3. Shirt, Diesel, $1,695, diesel.com. 4. Necklace, Harwell Godfrey, $1,950, twistonline.com. 5. Sweater, 1 Moncler JW Anderson, $760, moncler.com. 6. Swimsuit, Rendl, $175, rendl.co. 7. Cargo pants, Brunello Cucinelli, $1,495, shop.mitchellstores .com. 8. Bucket hat, Call It By Your Name, $118, callitbyyourname.fr. 9. Coat, Herno, $810, herno.it. 10. Socks, Marc Jacobs, $29, marcjacobs.com. 11. Boot, Proenza Schouler, proenzaschouler.com.$1,095, 12. The Book of Building Fires by S. Coulthard, chroniclebooks .com. 13. Tooth Polish, Fat and the Moon, $16, fatandthemoon .com. 14. Rheinholz Enamel Caressing Toothbrush in Soft Set, vVardis, $19 (set of two), vvardis.com. 15. Assault twoperson Futurelight tent, The North Face, $750, thenorthface .com. 16. Pajamas, Sleepy Jones, $228, sleepyjones.com.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 13 14 15 16 17 18 Shop 11 1. Top, Paco Rabanne, $390, nordstrom.com. 2. Monogram suitcase, L/Uniform, luniform .com. 3. Earring, Almasika, twistonline.com. 4. Mouthrinse, Olas, $24, olaswellness.com. 5. Bucket hat, Emily Levine, $85, emilylevine.com. 6. Sunglasses, OPR, $325, opreyewear.com. 7. T-shirt, Fiorucci, $95, fiorucci .com. 8. Skirt, 1017 ALYX 9SM, $935, alyxstudio.com. 9. Bikini, House of Aama, $390, houseofaama.com. 10. No. 1 comb in Malachite, Machete, $45, shopmachete.com. 11. Pajama top, $365, shorts, $185, Araks, araks.com. 12. Bikini top, $80, bottom, $70, Gonza, shopgonza.com. 13. The Mug Guard, Dune Suncare, $28, dunesuncare.com. 14. Sandal, Neous, similar styles at neous .co.uk. 15. Lomo’Instant Automat Bora Bora Edition camera, Lomography, $159, lomography.com. 16. Pants, La DoubleJ, $635, ladoublej.com. 17. Dress, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, $1,795, modaoperandi .com. 18. Necklace, Isabel Marant, $260, shopbop.com.

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This otherworldly take on the chignon, created for Schiaparelli by legendary hairstylist Guido Palau, was inspired by the aerodynamic helmets worn by cyclists. “It feels traditional and classic because it’s very polished,” Palau says, but “it has a foot in the future because of the elongated shape of the back, which gives it an alien-y feeling.” Model Iman Kaumann’s of-the-moment copper hair color and septum piercing also root it firmly in the present. Palau used a sculpted pad for shape, but you can try an easier technique by using an old-school hair secret, recently rediscovered by the TikTok set (watch @the_minimal_hair for the perfect how-to). Create a sleek updo with a simple twist, securing the hair with a U-shaped pin that offers more texture and volume than a regular elastic or bobby pins. “Whatever way you do it, there’s something so beautiful about how it lengthens the neck and creates such elegant proportions,” Palau adds.—MARGAUX ANBOUBA

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Do the Beauty TWIST

Somesafetyprecautionsareinorder: Holding a tool on the skin for too long in one place may cause so-called freezer burn, exacerbating the redness you’re trying to quell—so keep it moving. You “don’t want to further injure your skin, because that could lead to either more redness or more hyperpigmentation,” Boakye explains—a particular concern for those with darker skin tones. For athome rolling, she recommends testing the tool on your forearm before using it on your face to ensure it won’t stick to (and tear) the skin. Prep your skin by applying a serum or moisturizer, advises Howard Sobel, MD, clinical attending physician in dermatology and dermatologic cosmetic surgery at New York’s Lenox Hill Hospital, and roll the device for no more than 10 minutes. “Too much cold can cause blood circulation problems to the skin...as well as decrease permeability to skin care ingredients and nutrients,” he says. Forfirst-timerstryingcoldtherapyat home,Boakyerecommendsusingaroller, such as the Sacheu Beauty Stainless Steel Facial Roller ($35; sacheu.com), to easily target all areas of the face. The EsaroraIceRoller($19;amazon.com)is abudget-friendlychoicewithmorethan 17,000primarilypositivereviews(theicy blue tool also popped up on an episode of Euphoria as Sydney Sweeney’s characterCassieHowardshowcasedherobsessive morning routine). Sonäge Baby Frioz Mini Icy Globes ($54; sonage .com) are petite options that you can use all over your face—but are especially easy to roll around delicate eye skin. Whether you’re using a skin care tool or a bowl of ice water, the most important thing is to protect your skin. “You don’t want it to feel uncomfortable,” Dubroff explains.“Butyouwantittofeelsurprising.”—EMILY BURNS

Chilled skin care tools are the hottest trend W forever, but it’s a good fix.” While most of the benefits are temporary, Naana Boakye, MD, an Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey,dermatologist,saysicerolling(or applying any cold tool) four to five times aweekcanhelpdiminishinflammation.

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alk to your freezer and take out an ice cube. And there you have summer’shottestbeauty secret, which just happens to be ice cold. By simply rolling the ice cube across your face, you can see instant benefits: glowy skin, reduced inflammation, and decreasedredness.Icehasbeenaninsidersecretforages(recallJoanCrawford’s morning ice bath ritual, portrayed by Faye Dunaway in Mommie Dearest), but is now making a big comeback: Irina Shayk, Jasmine Tookes, and Tracee Ellis Ross have all used ice rolling tools in their beauty routines on social media.

Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench posted anInstagramvideoofBellaHadidchanneling the ice bath scene from Mommie Dearest. And Google searches for ice rollers have jumped nearly 58 percent since last year, according to search data from Spate, while TikTok videos with the hashtag #iceroller number more than 58.3 million views. While you can opt to go straight to thetrayinyourfreezer,manyofthetools on the market, like the stainless steel CurrentBody Skin Cryo Roller ($35; us.currentbody.com) and the Skin by Brownlee&Co.CryotherapyBall($25; skinbybrownleeandco.com), will stay coldlongerandarespeciallydesignedfor thenooksandcranniesoftheface.These tools also won’t melt and make a mess in yourChanelbathroom.makeup artist Pati Dubroff, who’s worked with stars like Margot RobbieandSimoneAshley,sayssheuses cold tools as a quick fix when working on set, especially early in the morning. Dubroff opts for the Joanna Vargas MagicGlowWand ($285;joannavargas .com), which features a cool and a hot setting. For Dubroff, cold tools are great for “anytime you want something to just feel less puffy, saggy, inflamed. It’s not

The COOL CLUB

“YOU DON’T WANT IT TO FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE. BUT YOU WANT IT TO FEEL SURPRISING.” ARCHIVE;BEVACQUA/TRUNKMARTABYPHOTOGRAPHEDMODEL: IMAGES.SACHA/GETTYDOUGLASBACKGROUND:ICE 52

sweat and odor protection distortionnodigital Dove Advanced Care Dry Spray has a weightless formula that goes on instantly dry for effective protection that’s kind to skin. Because when underarms are healthy and protected, you’re more confident and carefree. When for,areunderarmsyourcareditshows.

“Before” begins on March 31, 1993, when Sama and Haya Abu Khadra were born in Saudi Arabia. (Simi and Haze were childhoodnicknames,and—“forbranding”—becametheirlegal names, too.) Their mother, Rula, operated a fashion boutique in Riyadh, and by the time the twins were 14, they were tagging along with her to Paris Fashion Week. A few seasons and college semesters later, “we got to be in [Chanel’s] The Little Black Jacket book, which was cool,” Simi says. “But I was in the middle of finals when we had to go to Paris and shoot it. That was a whole drama.” Still, the twins graduated with honors. “Then we went to Coachella,” Haze says, laughing. A friend asked them to deejay a party at the last minute, and they caught the eye of a major music manager. Instagram followers and fame followed, along with a ringlet-to-ring-light transition in the twins’ aesthetic. In

RIGHT: THE KHADRA TWINS AT BALENCIAGA’S SPRING 2023 SHOW. BELOW: SIMIHAZE BEAUTY VELVET BLUR MINI LIP BALMS, $28 EACH, SIMIHAZEBEAUTY.COM.

BRAND.THEOFCOURTESYIMAGE:REMAININGTHEHAPABLONDE/BACKGRID;TWINS:KHADRA

SimiHazeBeautywasbornwhentheduogottiredofsmooshinglipstickstogethertocreatetheirdesiredformula.“Plus,we’d beenputtingstickersonourfacesforever,becauseit’sfun,”Haze says.“Butwhenwerealizedstickerscouldbeeyemakeup,itwas this amazing epiphany.” The brand’s Eye Play Dance Packs and EyePlayGlitterPackshavesoldoutthreetimes,andcrashedthe line’s website before this year’s Coachella.

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Two Become One

February,TMZpostedavideoofTheWeekndappearingtokiss Simi.(Throughtheirpublicists,thetwinswouldnotdiscusstheir love lives.) I do manage to ask how the sisters have cultivated so manyfamousfriendships.StormReidandTommyGenesishave beenseenwearingtheirbrand.Hazeanswersserenely,“It’sjust the times we live in, if that makes sense.”

The duo also created their first avatars—figures in neon catsuits with the cartoon eyes of a manga dream girl. “Don’t you ever ask what’s really real?” muses Haze when I ask about the twins’ new interest in the metaverse. “Sometimes we feel like we’re just floating in space.”

“Some people don’t think we’re real people, anyway,” sighs Simi, referencing the virtual hate mail lobbed by internet denizens. “When people meet us, they’re like, ‘Oh, okay, they’re actually not monsters but really nice.’ ” There’s a real sadness in Simi’svoicehere,alongwithanunspokentruth:Intheultramodern age, fame with a side of hate is the new definition of women “having it all.” And it has a cost. In this case, it’s a SimiHaze Beauty lip balm that goes for $28.—FARAN KRENTCIL

“OH, LET’S MAKE YOU LOOK DIFFERENT!” says Haze Khadra.Perchedonamarblecounter,thePalestinianDJ/beauty entrepreneur/street-style star is using my face as a makeup-tester palette. Three small chess piece–like lipsticks are in herhands;shemovesthemstrategicallyacrossmylips.Hereyes glint between green and yellow, like a cat’s. “We try to keep our bubble very close,” says her identical twin, Simi, a few weeks later. She’s calling me from Beverly Hills, her voice hoarse from a weekend at Coachella. “There’s public and there’s private.… When the lines blur between the two, that’s when people start to have anxiety.… [Before fame], I never had any issues.”

SimiandHazeKhadra made a beauty line—and a new reality.

Havingbeeninthebeautyindustryformanyyearsasamakeupartist,beautyexpert,author,andbrandfounder,bythetimeI hitmylateforties,I’dalreadytrieditall:Botox,fillers,lasers,radio frequency,platelet-richplasma(PRP),LED,microneedling,and microcurrenttherapy.Manyofthoseprocedureswereeffective, ifnotmiraculous,andtheydidhelpsmooth,tighten,andlift.But as I rounded the corner into my fifties, I found these treatments were less and less effective, and I was no longer getting the results I wanted. I was probably in my midforties when I started thinking about getting a lift, and I even had surgery booked at one point, but I was honestly just too chicken to move forward with it. After I hit 50, I felt differently. I reached out to the many plastic surgeons I had met over the years to ask every question I could. I pored over before-and-after photos with the intensity of a forensic scientist, and hounded friends and acquaintances who’d been through it already.

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can’t believe that I am talking publicly about my facelift and that millions of people now knowhowvainIam.ButsinceIdon’tbelievein gatekeeping, and this was not a decision I took lightly, I’m embracing the power of transparency and sharing information.

Makeup artist Jenny Patinkin thought she knew what she was getting herself into. She was wrong.

I know a lot of people might think I’m crazy for getting surgery at the tender age of 53 (or for doing it at all), but according to New York facial plastic surgeon Andrew Jacono, MD, the

WhatIWishI’d Known GettingBeforeaFacelift I

THERE CAN COMPLICATIONS.UNPLANNEDBE As I mentioned, I’d sampled from a pupu platter of nonsurgical procedures prior to surgery. What I didn’t expect is that some of those samestopgapmeasurescouldend up complicating my surgery. I’d been getting conservative hyaluronicfillersinmynasolabialfolds for years and had filled my cheeks once or twice when I was around 40. Byun says that fillers “can linger and accumulate, especially intothemuscleandfattytissue.”Hehadtoremovesomeduring surgery, because it can bulge when you lift the muscle and skin. I also had a complication from a previous thread lift. AccordingtoByun,mostsuturethreadliftsnowuseabsorbable sutures, but they cause abnormal scar tracks as they disappear. He had to “fight” through the abnormal scarring during my surgery, which added an extra hour to my procedure (and an extra, unanticipated incision). This alarmed my husband, who was actively pacing in the waiting room.

YOUR FACE WILL MUTATE. I learned that swelling resolves in neither a linear nor symmetrical way. In the first two weeks after my surgery, I would wake up every day secure in the knowledge that I would look better each morning. But then two weeks hit, and boom, as I became more active and rejoined my life, my face would still puff and swell in odd, uneven, and sometimes alarming ways. My surgeon calls the first month after surgery the “Baby Alien” phase. It’s aptly named because while you may look a little younger, you also look…otherworldly. Byun explained to me that wound healinggoesthroughfourphases.Thefirsttwo(hemostasisand inflammation)arequiet.Proliferation,thethirdphase,is“quite noisy, that’s why you see fluctuations after two to three weeks.” Wearingamaskwasparticularlyhelpfulforincognitopurposes.

IT’S NORMAL TO FEEL REGRET. Ihadnopainaftersurgery(literallynone).Buttheemotionaltoll ofthesurgerytookmebysurprise.Maybeitwastheunrecognizablefacestaringbackatmeinthemirrorandthenaggingfeeling of, “Oh shit, what have I done?” But for the first time in my life, I had a panic attack, necessitating a middle-of-the-night call to my doctor and a prescription for Xanax. In truth, I had been warned about this by my surgeon’s office, but I assumed that since I was so well-informed and had done so much research, it wouldn’t happen to me. But it did, and like my post-op face, it wasn’t pretty.

averageageofafaceliftpatientinhispracticeisbetween47and 53.WhenIdecidedthatMichaelByun,MD,inChicagowasthe right plastic surgeon for me, I felt prepared. Calm, even. He has a reputation as the “repairman” of faces, known for putting everything back where it was. I scheduled a lower- and mid-face lift, along with an upper and lower blepharoplasty (lift) for my eyelids, for September 2021. The surgery was planned for five hours, and I had a 7 a.m. start time.

YOUR SKIN MAY FEEL REALLY STRANGE. There are a lot of odd facial sensations after surgery. My skin was so tender that I didn’t so much as splash water on it for a month,throwingmydedicationto my skin care routine right out the window.Itwasalsonumb,andthe crown of my head and my whole scalp also felt itchy and spongy. My head itched for months afterward. Byun says these reactions are “completely normal and expected”andareevena“greatsign” that the nerves are growing back.

The road to recovery didn’t go exactly as planned. Despite allmyduediligenceandmysurgeonkeepingmewell-informed of what to expect, I encountered surpriseaftersurpriseinreallife.I wishI’dknownafewmorethings. So here are six thoughts to keep in mind if you think a facelift might be in your future.

Today,nearlyayearanddozens(okay,hundreds)ofscrutinizing selfieslater,I’mdelightedbymycrisperjawline,highercheeks, and smoother eyelids. Still, it took me a long time to get to this point. For most of those months, I felt like my face just looked odd, although I was certainly my harshest critic. I wish I could definitively say that I would go through it all over again, but because of the emotional strain it put on me— andonmypoor,disconcertedhusband—Ijustcan’tsayforsure. Outwardly, he was nothing but supportive and encouraging. Inside,Ilaterfoundout,heworriedaboutmypain,myemotional anguish, and my appearance throughout my entire recovery. He was beside himself with fear that my face would never get back to normal and that he would have to live with a miserable wifewho’dfuckedupherface.Evennow,inthe“settling”phase, whichcantakeuptoayear,Istillhavetheoccasionalmomentof thinking,“WhyonearthdidIputmyselfthroughthis?”Iassume that,aswithchildbirth,thememoryofthetraumawillfade,and thatwhenmyjawlineinevitablysuccumbstogravityoncemore, Imightgiveitsomethought.Mightbeingtheoperativeword. ▪ SLEEPY

EATING SLEEPINGANDWILL BE DIFFERENT. Mydoctorsaidnottoeatanything other than soft foods for the first few weeks after surgery in order to limit the use of the muscles in my lower face while chewing. Not only could I not get a fork in my mouth, I could barely open wide enough to fit my toothbrush. I ate lots of oat milk ice cream and soup. The act of brushing, swishing, and rinsing was comically messy. Sleeping was a challenge, because my eyes wouldn’t fully close for months. I could manipulate my lids to get them shut, but the muscles were pulled so tight they wouldn’t stay closed. The doctor kept telling me it would resolve, and of course it did, but it was incredibly distressing. YOU MAY WANT TO CHANGE YOUR PHONE’S SECURITY OPTIONS. The facial recognition feature on my iPhone didn’t recognize meforseveraldays.Fairenough,though,becauseIdidn’teither.

LEFT:

RIGHT:GALL;LEROZENNBY(2018) TRUTH GALL.LEROZENNBY(2018)

So what’s driving this affinity for all things vintage? For starters, the packaging is often extraordinary—like intricately adorned refillable compacts from the 1950s and ’60s beautyinspiredbythepast is trendingin the present. RULES

RETRO

SINGER SADE’S SIGNATURE BEAUTY LOOK FROM 1986 AT THE 2022 BAFTAS.

The popularity of vintage clothing is well-documented, but vintage beauty is fast amassingafanclubofitsown.InadditiontoenthusiasticproductcollectorslikeParsons, there are dozens of nostalgic, beauty-focused Instagram accounts, such as @discontinuedmakeup, an ode to ’80s- and ’90s-era cosmetics. TikTok videos with the hashtag #vintagemakeup have logged more than 425 million views thus far. And there are a slew of young Hollywood stars who’ve made retro looks cool: Euphoria’s Alexa Demie collaboratedwithmakeupartistSamVissertocreateher1930s-styleskinnybrows;pop star and Versace muse Dua Lipa channeled Donatella herself at the 2022 Grammys; and model Kaia Gerber drew inspiration from Bianca Jagger on the red carpet last September. Vintage beauty also frequently shows up on fashion runways, with throwbackreferencesappearingatthefall2022shows,includingglossylipsatVictorGlemaud, squared-off nails at Christian Cowan, and bright blue eye shadow at Christian Siriano.

MODEL ADWOA ABOAH (TOP) REFERENCES

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n a video call earlier this year, Erin guru,Hadid’smakeupMaybelline’sParsons,globalartistandGigigo-tobeautyisshowingme her massive collection of vintage beauty products. “I am literally spending my lifesavingsonthiscollection;it’ssooutof hand.Ihaveprobablyover2,000pieces,” says Parsons, gesturing at powder compacts promoting Franklin D. Roosevelt’s presidential campaign, Maybelline’s first mascara from 1917, and Revlon lipsticks from the 1960s designed to look like dolls in fur coats.

Why

—MARISA MELTZER

madefromrealbrass—orwhimsical,like’90s-eralipglossrings. But there may be a deeper emotional element at play. A June 2020articleinthejournalFrontiersinPsychologysuggestedthat nostalgiahelpsfightfeelingsofloneliness,sinceremembranceis typically a collective experience. As we exit a pandemic and enter an uncertain future, scrolling through an Instagram account devoted to images of ’80s supermodels—or hunting for vintage makeup online—may serve as an emotional salve. Claire Mazur, coauthor of WorkWife, tracked down a box of 50 Bonne Bell Lip Lites in Shoutin’ Sugar—her teen obsession. Chelsea Fairless, who cohosts the fashion podcast Every Outﬁt, has eBay alerts set for Love Cosmetics, “a brand with the most fabulous space-age packaging” (much like Ariana Grande’s R.E.M. Beauty), as well as ’90s-era Hard Candy nail polish, the line whose Sky blue lacquer was reportedly worn by actress AliciaSilverstoneforherCluelesspresstour.“HardCandypolish was the ultimate status symbol when I was a tween, and I cannot shake my obsession,” Fairlesssays.Hercurrentwhitewhale:Hard Candy’s limited-edition Candy Man collection, which was marketed toward guys and boasted shade names like Testosterone (silvery gray) and Oedipus (forest green). It’snotjustindividualslookingbackward forinspiration.Acropofnewbeautybrands are also borrowing from the past. TooD, a clean makeup line created by Shari Siadat, a fan and former reader of now-defunct CosmoGirl, enlisted the magazine’s founder andeditor-in-chief,AtoosaRubenstein(also the namesake of the nostalgic Instagram fan account @thankyouatoosa, which pays homage to Y2K-era teen magazines), to collaborate on the line’s spring 2022 marketing campaign.“Weusedthebrightpalette,script fonts, and busy-ness of CosmoGirl, combined with TooD’s more modern content,” Rubensteinsays.“Regrettably,wehadcover lines like 5 Ways to Get Him to Notice You, but TooD’s creative imagery includes trans modelsandarmpithairwithglitter—it’saGenZriffonthe’90s.”

ROBERTCYRUS:JORDAN/ALAMY;PETERSADE:D;MUCKLE/STUDIOJAYSWIPE:LIPSTICKIMAGES;FEWINGS/GETTYTRISTANABOAH: DAVIDLIPA:D;WESTBROOK/STUDIOJEFFREYSWIPE:MASCARAIMAGES;HOLMES/GETTYARTUROGERBER:IMAGES;KAMAU/GETTY

BRANDS.THEOFCOURTESYIMAGES:REMAININGFISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK;

Similarly, cosmetics historian Gabriela Hernandez created Bésame Cosmetics to emulate vintage products, but with modern formulas. Her best-selling Bésame Black Cake Mascara (aboveright)wasinspiredbyaproductfromthe1920s,buthers ismadeofvegetablewaxes,ratherthantheoriginal’scoaltarand soap. Cake mascaras (which come in a compact and require the addition of water before applying) were mostly phased out in the U.S. in the 1960s and ’70s when wand mascaras arrived on the scene, but Hernandez says they’re worth revisiting because they’re conveniently multipurpose: In addition to playing up lashes, they can be used to fill in eyebrows, rim the eyes as an eyeliner, or even camouflage grays. Parsons, who finds much of her vintage makeup via Ruby Lane,Etsy,1stdibs,auctions,orantiquestores,concedesthat“formulasaresomuchbetternow.”Butitwasthroughexperimenting witholdproductsthatshediscoveredavintageformulashe’seager to reinvent. “It’s [Revlon] Bachelor’s Carnation, a red lipstick oncewornbyMarilynMonroe,”shesays.“NowIjusthavetofind theingredientlistandre-createitmyself.”

FROM TOP: MILEY CYRUS DITCHED HER BILLY RAY CYRUS–INSPIRED MULLET FOR A DEBBIE HARRY DYE JOB; KAIA GERBER WORE COIFFED BIANCA JAGGER–LIKE WAVES INSPIRED BY A 1981 RED-CARPET APPEARANCE; POP STAR DUA LIPA, WHO OPENED THE VERSACE SPRING 2022 SHOW, CHANNELED THE ICONIC BLEACHED-BLONDE DESIGNER AT THE 2022 GRAMMYS.

When my book became aTVshow, Ihadto getmyselfcamera-ready. By Phoebe Robinson MS.ROBINSON GOESTOHOLLYWOOD

ARTISTTHEOFCOURTESYHARRIS:GABRIELLEMEGANBY(2020)

NextHollywood-ready.up?Mydiet.Beinginmymidthirties,I’mdependenton my diet to give me the energy I need to handle my demanding 15-to16-hour-a-dayschedule.Ijump-startedthisjourneybydoingtheKromawellnessdetox.BecauseIstrength-train,Ididn’t really lose weight, but this detox gave me a taste of my future: I ate lots of porridge and greens and pooped several times a day. Now the passageways are clear and I mostly eat in moderation: comfort food if I want, but I have to admit that Sweetgreen saladsareastapleofmydiet.(Fulldisclosure:IthoughtSweetgreen was pronounced Sweetgreens because I’m a Black auntie and Black aunties just love adding an s to shit.)

Now,Icanalreadyfeelthejudgmentfromsomeofyouabout myeatingatakeoutsalade’eryday.Inmydefense,ahomemade salad doesn’t hit the same. I need a girl named Kelsie to be slicing and dicing them cherry tomatoes, so I can really absorb the nutrients. #TheseAreMyReparations. How deep is my love for takeout salad, you ask? Sweetgreens (intentional s) slid into my DMs and asked to send me a bottle of a soonto-bereleasedvinaigrette.Woooooow! I’m getting advance salad dressing drops before they hit the streets, because salads are apparently a pillar of my public persona?! I’m Hollywoodready,Well,bitch!almost. I still had to address my teeth. Y’all, they looked like Sherwin-Williams’s off-white paint swatches. I’m talking Gossamer Veil, SteamedMilk,RomanColumn.While I never had bright pearlies like my dad, the fact that Trash was filming in 4K convinced me that I didn’t want to look like I grew up in England. So I went to the dentist for the first time since high school. I know! Trifling! Butalso?Mydentistsaidshelikedmy “thicc enamel,” so maybe I was doing somethingright?(Okay,shedefinitely said “thick” not “thicc,” but I will take anyopportunitytospinacompliment so I feel like Megan Thee Stallion.) Anyway, the point is, I had a stellar appointment (no cavities!) and went through the twoweek process of professionally whitening my teeth. Not to the point that it looks as though I’m walking around with a mouth fullofChiclets,butbrightenoughthatifafishermanwerelostat seainthedeadofnight,Icouldsmileandhelpguidehimhome. I know, I’ve written a lot about the physical here, because that’s what Hollywood places importance on. But during this timeofpreparation,IalsodiscoveredthemostimportantthingI hadtodopersonallytogetmyselfHollywood-ready:setboundaries. It sounds strange, but that’s only until you think about it. Yes, this is a business that’s driven, in part, by doing whatever it takes to make your dream come true, but being at this stage of my life and having experienced my fair share of rejection, I’m appreciative of this opportunity. I want to cherish and savor every moment. Everything’s Trash will never come around again in this specific way with this specific group of writers, actors,andcollaboratorsagain.That’swhatmakesitspecial:its fragility, in that if even one thing is slightly different, the show wouldn’t work. I want to protect that, and in order to do so, I have to have boundaries. I have to protect my peace, my heart, mymind,mybody.Thatway,I’mreadyforwhateverHollywood might throw my way. ▪

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ROBINSON ON THE SET OF HER NEW SHOW, EVERYTHING’S TRASH

W STAYEXTENDED

SUBJECT.THEOFCOURTESYROBINSON:GALLERY;DEBUCKAND

hen Freeform green-lighted my half-hour comedy Everything’s Trash, which is inspired bymylifeasaformerlybrokethirtysomething cocoa Khalessi trying to make it in NYC, I was overjoyed,floatingeven,likewhenSexandthe City’s Carrie Bradshaw skips while crossing the street for no reason. Imagining myself on set skip-walking to wardrobe to slap on some nipple covers? Don’t mind if I do. Skip-walking to craft services to eat Cheez-Its even though I’m lactose intolerant? To be expected. Skip-walking to the wrap party once shooting is over and dancing and partying with the cast and crew? Duh! Never mind that a bitch (I’m said bitch) can barely walk after balancing precariously on what essentially amounts to toothpicks for 13 hours a day, five days a week for months? I’m a fool! But I also have to admit that my mind was full of fantasies about what getting myself “Hollywood-ready” as a mere “normal” would entail. Before I go on, let me introduce myself.MynameisPhoebeRobinson. I’m from Cleveland, Ohio; am a New York Times best-selling author/comedian/actress; and avail to be Jason Momoa’s scrunchie holder/lover… stay on task, Pheebs. The TV show. Yes. The TV show. Whenever I mention it, folx ask how I got myself camera-ready, because the process seems shrouded in mystery. But honestly, it’s straightforward. Like, have youeverwokenupatanungodlyhour so you could exercise in the hopes of your body turning into JLo’s, only for it to resemble that of a contestant on MTV’s Real World/Road Rules Challenge who just had two weeks’ notice that they were going to do some rope climbs and barrel rolls? Then you know how to get Hollywood-ready, my friend. Television, hell, life is image-based. We want to look great to secure the job, win the lover, get out of trouble—and because this industry encourages women to transform themselves into alewkdujourbyfasting,overexercising,andgettingplasticsurgery, the pressure was on. Sorta. Being a type A queen, I strove to get Hollywood-ready more on my terms: I had achieved this dream, so I wanted to look like the person who manifested it. But that doesn’t mean I wasn’t down for some upgrades. Firstup?Exercise.Ihadalreadybegunworkingoutlongbefore my TV show was green-lighted, because quarantining in a small apartment was not great for my mental health. I bought a Peloton bike to get moving and raise them endorphins. Twoplusyearslater,I’vegotarmsandlegsbyPeloton,andpersonalitybybeinganAcupsinceIwas13andthinkingthatcharmand wit will bring all the boys to the yard. And I think we all know that since comedy is my career of choice, my yard has mostly been like last call at a bar on a Tuesday night—minimal occupancy. But after spending all these years honing the funny, the addition of this new honed body-ody-ody makes me feel pretty dang

Fashion consultant MariaClaudia“Cloclo”Echavarría’swedding to Prince Josef-Emanuel of Liechtenstein was a colorful tour through her home country’s traditions.

THE BRIDE’S LOOK WAS DESIGNED FOR HER BY CLOSE FRIENDS: A GOWN FASHIONED FROM ANTIQUE LINENS BY BYOCHOAINVITATIONSCOUPLE’SBOTTOMBYPLATFORMSCUSTOMCORTÁZAR,ESTEBANPAIREDWITHAQUAZZURA(TOPRIGHT)EDGARDOOSORIO.RIGHT:THERINGSSITATOPBYCRYSTALANDAHEADPIECEMAGNETICMIDNIGHT. Colombian DREAM Living

CHIQUI DE ECHAVARRÍA CREATED A TROPICAL PARADISE IN HER HOME’S COURTYARD (LEFT), ADDING A MURAL OF VINES AND FRESH ORCHIDS (COLOMBIA HAS OVER 4,000 SPECIES). IRACA PALM PLACE MATS, NAPKIN RINGS, AND BREAD BASKETS MADE BY LOCAL ARTISANS (BELOW) CAME FROM HER BOUTIQUE, CASA CHIQUI, WHILE THE FAMILY PLATES WERE HAND-PAINTED IN MEDELLÍN.

Photographed by Maureen M. Evans

aria Claudia “Cloclo” Echavarría has always known the treasures that her native Colombia holds. Though she was educated in Switzerland, has lived in London, and now resides in Milan, Cartagena has remained her family’s base. So when the announcement of Echavarría’s engagement to Prince Josef-Emanuel of Liechtenstein was made last July, there was little doubt that a very Colombian wedding would be in store. The bride, cofounder of former talent incubator/fashion consultancy Sí Collective, has dedicated herself to raising the profiles of Latin American designers, and her wedding, a weeklong, three-destination affair, was no exception. “It was important to me to keep the team as local as possible, and to be able to trulyoffer ourguestsa taste ofthebestofColombia,”Echavarría says.“Colombiansaresoproudofourcountry,andwewantpeople to see and experience everything it has to offer.” Among the first to receive a call: childhood friends and designers Esteban Cortázar and Edgardo Osorio. Cortázar, despite having created many a wedding dress, had never designed one for a wedding in Cartagena. “It’s one of the most romantic cities, and it has always inspired me. You’re walking down the street and it’s like you’re in a Gabriel García Márquez novel,” says Cortázar, who had the idea of fashioning the dress from antique linens in order to stand up to the Caribbean heat, appeal to the bride’s passion M

Cartagena

Living DESTINATIONS forsustainability,andfeelsufficientlygrandforaroyalwedding.

Aftertheceremony,guestsrode chivas (distinctlyColombian open-airbuses)throughdensecrowdshopingtocatchaglimpse of the newlyweds as they emerged to the sounds of traditional drummers and dancers, whose white cotton dresses echoed the bride’s. The dancers were “totally a surprise to Josef, which shows on his face in many of the photos!” Echavarría says. “Cloclo was absolutely sure she wanted to have the reception at home,” says her mother, legendary hostess Evelia “Chiqui” de Echavarría, who started planning last summer. “I said, ‘Oh my God, I have to get all the orchids now, so that they’ll flower in March.’ ” Flower they did, complementing the lush garden Chiqui has been cultivating for decades. And when she decided that the space still wasn’t quite green enough for her liking? She hired an artist to paint vines on the white walls and ceiling. After the dinner, catered by Juan Felipe Camacho of restaurant Don Juan, and the cake, a coconut and mamey pie by Cartagena’s Pastelería Mila, musicians playing vallenato got the party started, followed by a salsa band and DJ Carlos Mejia.

THE DAY AFTER THE CEREMONY, GUESTS DECAMPED TO THE ECHAVARRÍAS’ BARÚ HOUSE FOR A BOUNTY OF COLOMBIAN FRUITS AND JUICES (ABOVE) AND LIVE MUSIC ON THE BEACH (BELOW LEFT). CLOCLO, BELOW WITH JOSEF-EMANUEL, COLLABORATED ON A MINIDRESS WITH DESIGNER DIEGO GUARNIZO, CROCHETED BY COLOMBIAN ARTISANS WITH SHELL EMBELLISHMENTS. Barú

“Cloclohasimpeccabletaste,butshe’salsoadown-to-earthgirl, so I wanted to create something that would command attention,” he says. “I envisioned her as the Princess of Cartagena, a mix of both worlds, because she’s lived all over the world but she’s always been in touch with her roots.”

The grandeur of the church, the 16th-century Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, called for a long train, which was created in part by joining four enormous, early-1900s curtain panels found in Paris—pushing the bride out of her usual flats and into skyscraping platforms by Osorio, founder of shoe brand Aquazzura. Osorio embellished the pumps with remnants from the dress fabric.

TheEchavarrías’partiesarelegendary,butknowingafulldayat thebeachawaitedthem,mostoftheguestsretiredbeforedawn. Barú, a small island where the Echavarría family has a thatched-roof beach house, feels a world away, making it the idealspotforguests—includingtheGrandDukeofLuxembourg and family, handbag designer Carolina Santo Domingo, and Princesses Maria Laura and Luisa of Belgium—to unwind after the previous day’s festivities. Echavarría arrived in a hand-crocheted minidress created with costume and set designer Diego Guarnizo(itwasdecoratedwithshellsathermother’sboutique, CasaChiqui)andabikinidesignedwithCali-basedJuanDeDios. “I wanted to highlight artisans and smaller brands that might not be as internationally recognized,” Echavarría says. “This has always been central to my work and something I believe in strongly, beyond it being a professional endeavor.” Later, she changedintoaGabrielaHearstdress,withCasaChiquiearrings andaheadpiecebyhercousinLucia’sbrand,MagneticMidnight. Afewdays’breakbeforethecelebration’swrap-upinBogotá gave guests ample time to explore Colombia. A country house owned by Echavarría’s aunts stood in for an Alpine setting as guestsdonned tracht (traditionalgarmentsofGerman-speaking countries) and explored a fruit and flower market created by Guarnizo.TheAlpine-styletablelinens—createdincollaboration with illustrator Crystal Ochoa, a former Sí Collective director— featuredyellowembroideredbutterflies,reminiscentofGabriel García Márquez’s symbol of love, hope, and peace. The motif recurred throughout the week, in the invitations and even fluttering aroundevents.“The whole processfelt likeworkingwith friends,”Echavarríasays.“Fromputtingtogethermylooks,todeveloping the graphics and choosing the vendors, it felt like I was tapping into my network of loved ones.”

Bogotá 65

—NAOMI ROUGEAU A FAMILY HOUSE IN THE HILLS WAS THE SETTING FOR AN ALPINEINSPIRED POST-WEDDING SEND-OFF (ABOVE RIGHT AND BELOW). THE BRIDE (ABOVE LEFT) WORE AN EMBROIDERED IVORY SILK DIRNDL WITH A PALE PINK SILK BROCADE APRON BY FRIEND ANNINA PFUEL’S BRAND ANNINA DIRNDL, AS WELL AS AQUAZZURA ESPADRILLES.

ikaelaShiffrinisusedtosteeringthroughtwistsandturns.But nothing could have prepared the champion Alpine skier for the last two years: the sudden death of her father, a debilitatingbackinjury,andapositiveCOVID-19testthatforcedherto misssomeWorldCupraces.Then,inoneofthemostshocking sequences in the sport’s history, Shiffrin was disqualified from not one, not two, but three races at the 2022 Winter Olympic Games. After stumbling through the slalom, her signature event, she veered off to the side of the course, took her skis off, and bowed her head as cameras zoomed in. “Everybody experiences the hard days when it’s difficult to keep a positive attitude,andyoujustkindofneedtositdownandcry,”Shiffrin says. “Except, for me, it all became a very public thing.” Atthatmoment,ontopofamountain,Shiffrinbottomedout. In the past, she might have concealed her burnout with platitudesaboutbeingmentallytoughorpushingthroughthepain. This time, she knew that in order to move forward, she needed After crashing epically on the world’s biggest stage, Mikaela Shiffrin is using her experienceto remind us that no one—not even an Olympian—is immune to mental health issues.

BY ROSE MINUTAGLIO

CULTURE

SHIFFRINMIKAELAISSTILLTHEBESTSKIERINTHEWORLD BY CALEB SANTIAGO ALVARADO

PHOTOGRAPHED

$1,290.DRESS,MARNI,HEROWNRING.STYLEDBYSARAHZENDEJAS.

Around 2016, she felt the first hints of what would become an avalancheofperformanceanxiety.Notthatitshowed.“Nomatter how much success I’ve had in my career, it was like a constant battle of trying to prove my worth,” she says. With each passingseason,thepressurepiledon,untileventuallyitstarted flooding out before races. “I would be nervous, and then I’d get moreandmoreandmorenervousuntilIhadtopuke,”shesays. “I was essentially having panic attacks.” Confiding in a sports psychologist helped, but “on the days when I feel like I’m not… living up to expectations, whether it’s outside expectations or my own…it’s kind of like, Why am I doing this?” Shiffrin says. “BecauseeventhoughI’mobviouslygood,Ididn’tfeellikeIwas very good, and that really twists and messes with your mind.”

T “NO MATTER HOW MUCH SUCCESS I’VE HAD IN MY CAREER, IT WAS LIKE A CONSTANT BATTLE TRYING TO PROVE MY WORTH.”

Before Shiffrin was old enough to get a driver’s license, she had debuted on the World Cup circuit, reaching her first podium eight races later. Her junior and senior years of high school werespentcompetingoverseas.Eileenleftacareerinnursingto travelwithherdaughterninemonthsoutoftheyear,whileJeff helmed the business side of “Team Shiffrin” from Vail, where he worked as an anesthesiologist. “Some things can’t be fixed from afar, yet somehow he managed to anyway,” Shiffrin says, recallinghowhewouldanswerhercallsatanyhourtogiveadvice.“Hewasourrock,oursafetynet.”Whenherdaddidcome to races, he joined his wife at the finish line, camera in hand. After qualifying for the 2014 Sochi Olympic Games just shy of her 19th birthday, she became the youngest women’s slalom champion in Olympic history, snowballing into a Sports Illustrated cover, a collaboration with Barilla on a cookbook titled Winning Recipes, and an Adidas sponsorship. As Shiffrin’s celebrity soared, so, too, did the expectation to keep winning.

—Mikaela Shiffrin

CULTURE |

Bysharinghonestly,Shiffrinjoinstheranksofmajorfemale athletes in recent history who’ve shined a light on once-taboo subjectslikementalhealth,trauma,andperformancepressure. “It’sscary,”shesays,“becauseitshowsvulnerability.Butthere’s no reason to feel shame anymore.”

After picking up her second and third Olympic medals at the 2018PyeongChangGames,shefelt“awaveofexhaustion”and “justkindofdepleted.”Likeshewas“goingthroughareallybad breakup,” Shiffrin distracted herself from increasing self-doubt with plans for the house in Edwards, which would double as the familyEighthome.months after she and her parents moved in, Shiffrin got a frantic call from her brother while she was away training in Italy. Her father had fallen while doing household chores alone at the house and had sustained a severe head injury. She made it back from Italy in time to say goodbye, before Jeff died at age 65 on February 2, 2020. “The fact that he had an accident, the fact that nobody was home to find and then help him, and get him the care he needed,soonersothathewouldactuallyhaveachanceofstaying alive.…” Shiffrin takes a deep breath to steady her shaking voice before continuing. “There’s a bunch of things I’m still angry about.” She couldn’t sleep. She couldn’t eat. Most days, she didn’t even want to ski. “When your priorities get set so much straighter from an accident or a tragedy like that, you start to wonder, Why was racing ever important to me to begin with?” she says. Six weeks after her dad died, the world shut down due to COVID, and Shiffrin found herself sequestered on flat ground. “Like, how am I supposed to actually focus on ski racing when allthisisgoingon?”shesays.TherestoftheWorldCuptourwas canceled,andshestayedofftheslopesforthreemonths—training almost exclusively in her home gym. “That brought its own wave of sadness and a hopeless feeling,” she says. It wasn’t just loss or lockdown; the time off led Shiffrin to realize how much she had allowed herself to be defined by her sport. “It became hard for me to separate who I am as a person, or even my selfworth, from my races and my performances,” she says. Shiffrin began investing in her life off the slopes, dating a shaggy-haired Norwegian Alpine skier named Aleksander Aamodt Kilde. When we meet in person at Shiffrin’s house, he tells me that he has known Shiffrin for eight years, but they only started dating after Jeff died. Kilde, whose mom survived a three-year battle with breast cancer, strikes me as totally devoted to Shiffrin and often shares encouraging words like “Just keep on fighting” on

Mikaela Shiffrin to look back. “I’m a different person than I was,” she says, “and I didn’t want to hide what I’m feeling anymore.”

wo months after the Games, Shiffrin invited me to her mountain chalet in Edwards, Colorado,aburgeoningskitown14mileswest ofVail.Herhomeisapalacefitforasnowmogul, with 100-year-old wooden ceiling beams imported from Austria (site of her first World Cup podium, nearly 10 years ago), an Elsa-worthy crystal icicle chandelier, and a quartzite kitchen island that glistens like a glacier in the sunlight. “Pretty cool, huh?” she says with a grin. Shiffrin is still surprised by her success. You can see it in the look of shock on her face every time she zips across the finish line seconds (lightyears, in the world of ski racing) ahead of everyone else. But this house is not afraid to brag. On a tour, I count five jam-packed trophy cases. “It’s obviously a lot,” Shiffrin says sheepishly.It’smorethanalot:At 27, Shiffrin is already one of the most decorated skiers of allHertime.chairlift to the top started 25 years ago when her parents put her on plastic skis from Safeway in the driveway as a toddler. Her father, Jeff, skied at Dartmouth, and her mother, Eileen, is a former high school racer. Skiing was more than a hobby; it was a part of their love story. One of their first dates was at Killington Mountain in Vermont, and they moved to Vail, a winter haven with world-class ski instructors, to raise Shiffrinandherolderbrother,Taylor.Shiffrinquicklyadvanced from blacktop to black diamonds—where, before long, she was whizzing past her parents. At 13, she enrolled at legendary Vermont-based ski-racing boarding school Burke Mountain Academy, which has produced 36 Olympians. Even among the nation’s best future ski talent, Eileen says her daughter was “way ahead of the curve,” running drills while her classmates skied for fun. “She wasn’t one of those athletes who needed to be pushed; she just ran with it,” Eileen says, “and people just couldn’t catch up with her.”

In the lead-up to the Games, Shiffrin suffered a severe back strain that “got to the level where I just couldn’t move, because it hurt thatbad,”shesays.Thenshetestedpositivefor COVID-19, and trained alone for 10 days in a hotel room, doing pull-ups on her bed frame while coughing and fighting a sore throat. “I was hoping that maybe I could just come back and it’d be fine,” she says. “But at that point, I was really low.” Even picking up a record 47th World Cup slalom victory less than a month before the Games leftherfeeling“moredefeatedthantriumphant,”shesays.“The most stressful and tiring part of the season was still to come, and I didn’t have any energy left to give.” That didn’t mean she wouldn’t give it her all: Shiffrin entered five individual ski disciplines, including two speed events. If she had medaled in just two of the five events, it would have made her the most decorated American female alpinist in Olympic history. “We didn’t predict that she wasn’t in the right emotional space,” her mom says.“Shedidn’ttalkaboutit,whichiskindoftypicalofMikaela. She sort of keeps things inside.… I think, for her, it shows a sign of weakness that she doesn’t like to show.”

FaceTime when she feels down. “I will never 100 percent understand what Mikaela is going through, but I can at least know 100 percent what I can do for her,” he says. “I can be there as a boyfriend and a man in her life that she can trust.”

CONTINUED ON PAGE 116

After years of repressing those feelings, Shiffrin decided to open up. “You want to run away and you want to hide from thosedifficultmoments,butthey’retherenomatterwhat,”she says. “I knew I needed to face this, and I could either choose to doitinshameorIcouldchoosetostandupstraightand,Idon’t know,baremysoul.”Sheapologizedtofansforherperformance inthegiantslalom,clappedbackatonlinetrollsaccusingherof choking, and later penned an essay about the deep sea of grief she’dbeendrowninginsincelosingherdad.“Mybestmoment at the Olympics ended up being me just trying to communicatewhatwasactuallygoingthroughmyheadandhopingthat somebody out there might be reading it and thinking, ‘That’s howIfeeltoday,’ ”shesays.“Like,Ifeltcompletelyhopelessand that’ssomethingthatalotofpeople

JONATHANTANK,SIMKHAI,$195.

Basketball players can brick the odd foul shot; golfers can miss a swing here or there. In ski racing, where margins of victory are measured in hundredths of a second, there is no room for error. At the Olympics, Shiffrin made several. During the women’s giant slalom, she slipped and didn’t finish. In the slalom, her signature event, she skied out and went to the side of the course, where, for more than 20 minutes, the cameras focused on her as the competition whizzed by—vying for a spot on the podium in the race many had expected her to win—and announcers deemed her elimination a “disappointment.” (The controversial coverage of Shiffrin was later defended by NBC OlympicsexecutiveproducerMollySolomon,whosaid,“We’re watchingrealpeoplewithrealemotionsinrealtime,andwedid everythingweweresupposedtodo.”)Shiffrinthencrashedfor a third time during the women’s alpine combined, and placed ninthinthewomen’ssuper-Gand18thinthedownhill.“There’s a lot of talk about the pressures athletes feel before a competition,andthatendsupbeingwhyitdoesn’tgowell,”Shiffrinsays. “Forme,itdidn’tgowellfirst,andthenIfeltthepressure,disappointment, shame, and embarrassment of knowing I couldn’t go back and change it.”

LEFT: ONE OF SHIFFRIN’S TROPHY CASES. AT 27, SHE IS ALREADY ONE OF THE MOST DECORATED SKIERS OF ALL TIME. BELOW: SHIFFRIN WEARS HER FATHER’S RING.

GUIDE.SHOPPINGSEEDETAILS,FORSHINYEDA;JESSICABYMAKEUPANDHAIR 69

Curious about her biological origins, Hellquist connected withsomehalfsiblingsonline,whoshepresumedwerefathered bythesamedonor.And,tohersurprise,agenetictestindicated shewas50percentAshkenaziJewish,eventhoughherparents had requested that the donor not be from any one specific ethnic heritage so the child could match their own mixed backgrounds. As these new discoveries emerged, she shared them withWortman.Accordingtothecomplaint,Wortman,himself Jewish, told her that her challenging PMS was all in her head, the result of being a “Jewish American Princess.”

en years ago, when Morgan Hellquist, a married art teacher with two kids, was having some issues with her period and needed a new gynecologist, Morris Wortman, MD, seemedliketheobviouschoice.Wortmanran a Rochester, New York, clinic treating menstrualdisorders,andpostedYouTubevideosinwhichhewould opineontreatingendometrialablationfailureswhiledressedin royal-bluescrubs,hisbaldheadreflectingtheoverheadlighting.

As now outlined in a civil lawsuit, Wortman wasn’t just admired in the broader community; he was also worshiped in Hellquist’shome.Sinceshewaseightyearsold,Hellquist’sparentshadtoldheraboutthe“miracleworker”doctorwhohelped themovercomeherfather’sparalysissotheycouldhaveababy usinganonymousdonorsperm.“Hewasverymuchpartofour story,”saysHellquist,36.ThefirsttimeHellquistmetWortman in his office, she says she was “a little fangirl-y.” She reminded him that her mother had been his patient, that he was responsible for her conception. While she was initially impressed by Wortman’s intelligence and diligence, over her nine years as his patient, Hellquist became increasingly uncomfortable. “Sometimes, he would be very professional and empathetic,” she says. “And sometimes, he was super inappropriate.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEPHANIE MEI-LING 70

On April 12, 2021, Hellquist had an appointment with Wortman. In his office, at the height of COVID-19, he asked Fertilityspecialists across the countryhave been accused of usingfraudulentlytheirownsperm.Their biologicaldaughters are all grown upand fightingback

YOURISDOCTORTHEWHENINDNA

Suddenly,Hellquistwasstruckbytheresemblance—Wortman looked exactly like one of the half brothers she had connected with online. “My throat dropped into my stomach,” she says. “Something in my head said, ‘This is bad. You’ve got to go.’ ” In May2021,accordingtothecomplaint,Hellquistandoneofher half brothers contacted Wortman’s daughter from a previous marriage, who agreed to submit to a genetic test. The test revealed that Hellquist, her half brother, and the doctor’s daughterwereallsiblings.WortmanwasHellquist’sbiologicalfather. Over the next month, Hellquist says she lost 10 pounds. “I could hardly keep food down,” she says. “I was physically sick everysingleday.”Shestruggledtomakesenseofwhathadtranspired. “I can’t imagine what was going through his head when he was treating me,” she says. “In what world do you look your daughter in the face and then give her a breast exam?” When her mother found out, she told Hellquist that she felt like she hadbeenviolated.(Hellquist’sdadpassedawayin2015.)Unsure what to do but determined to force accountability, Hellquist calledalawyerfriend,whogavehersomeshockingnews:There are no fertility fraud laws in New York State. What Wortman

BY SARAH TRELEAVEN

When Hellquist tried to schedule an appointment with another practitioner at Wortman’s clinic, Wortman changed her appointment to be with him and asked that she book with him moving forward. The whole thing struck Hellquist as “skeevy,” butsheconvincedherselfshewasoverreacting.“Iwaslike,‘He sees a thousand women’s vaginas a day. This has nothing to do with you.’ ” Still, she describes the odd sensation of watching someonereveredslipoffapedestal.“Until,allofasudden,itwas like a tsunami took out the pedestal in one swipe.”

PERSPECTIVES

her to take her mask off. “He told me I look better without a mask,” she says. At one point, Wortman’s wife and employee, Rebecca, stepped into the room, and Hellquist felt like she was examiningherface,asifsearchingforaresemblance.Wortman started asking Hellquist a barrage of personal questions: What does her husband do? What was his name again? What about her children’s names? He mentioned a relative of Hellquist’s whoworkedforanauctionhouse,andthengotuptorummage throughapileofthings,returningwithavintage“massage”gun. He asked her if she could guess what he thought women used it for, according to court filings. Itwasbizarreandawkward.Inhisofficefollowingtheexam, Wortman again made things personal, telling her his parents were Holocaust survivors and about his medical training. “I was like, this is so much information,” Hellquist says. Then he started chuckling to himself, calling her “such a good kid.”

HERHELLQUISTMORGANANDMOTHER,JOANNLEVEY. “THE FACT THAT IT’S NOT ALREADY SPECIFIC GROUNDS FOR LOSING YOUR [MEDICAL] LICENSE IS BONKERS.”

“OUR MOMS LOVE US. THEY WOULD NOT CHANGE US FOR ANYTHING. AND IT’S REALLY HARD FOR THEM TO TEASE APART THOSE TWO THINGS.” H

allegedlydid—swappinginhissperminsteadofusingthepromised anonymous donor—wasn’t a crime. These allegations now form the basis of the civil suit filed by Hellquist. In an amended complaint filed in February 2022, Hellquist and her legal team outline an alleged timeline: Between1983and1985,whileHellquist’smotherwasundergoing fertility treatments, Wortman told Hellquist’s parents that he had the perfect donor—a medical student who checked all theirboxes,includingscreeningforgeneticissues.Theyagreed to pay the donor $50 for each live donation.

“The fact that it’s not already specific grounds for losing your [medical] license is bonkers,” Hellquist says.

Accordingtohercomplaint,Hellquistnowbelievesthatnot only was the donor not real, but Wortman pocketed the $50 and, Hellquist alleges, used his own semen sample to inseminate Hellquist’s mother, who became pregnant and gave birth to Hellquist. She also alleges that her mother never consented to Wortman using his own sperm. Wortman did not reply to a requestforcommentforthisarticle,andasofMay2022,hadnot yet responded to the amended complaint that alleges medical malpractice, fraud, and battery. In his response to the original complaint,heacknowledgedthathetreatedHellquistona“very limitedandinfrequentbasis,”butdeniedherallegationsthathe had engaged in anyellquistwrongdoing.isoneof several women fighting a similar legal battle across the country, which is overwhelmingly being led not by the mothers who were betrayed by their doctors, but bytheiradultdaughters.Overthelastdecade, dozensofpeoplehaveallegedaveryparticular form of medical malpractice and personal betrayal: a fertility doctor who used his own sperm to impregnate a patient without her permission and is, in fact, her child’s biological father. Some of these doctors are alleged to have taken advantage of the new technologies and lax restrictions of the 1970s and ’80s, and are believed to have deceptively fathered dozens of children. Among the accused is Las Vegas obstetrician Quincy Fortier, MD, who is believed to have used his sperm to father at least 26 children. And Donald Cline, MD, a fertility doctor in Indianapolis,whoallegedlytoldatleast50patientsthathewas usingfreshspermfromamedicalstudentbeforeusinghisown sampleinstead.Fortier,whodiedin2006,neverlosthislicense, nor was he charged with any crime. Cline eventually surrendered his medical license and pleaded guilty to two counts of obstruction of justice for lying to Indiana investigators; to date, he has never been criminally charged or found liable in any court for allegedly using his own sperm to inseminate women without their consent. In the absence of criminal recourse—and with many of these physicians continuing to practice medicine—civil suits likeHellquist’saresometimestheonlyoption.Butflabbergasted women are also now pushing for legislative change. Across the country, state fertility fraud bills are being introduced, and ninehavebeenenactedsofar—inArizona,Arkansas,California, Colorado,Florida,Indiana,Kentucky,Texas,andUtah.Atpress time, Iowa’s legislature had passed a bill that was awaiting GovernorKimReynolds’ssignature.AndinNewYork,Hellquist has joined nine lawmakers to lobby for fertility fraud bills that will clear the way for civil suits; classify the practice of using humanreproductivematerialwithoutexplicitconsentasaggravated sexual abuse; and include fertility fraud in the definition ofmisconductforphysicians,thusmakingitillegalforadoctor tousehisownsperm.She’shopingitwillpassbysummer2022.

There is a generational divide surrounding advocacy, says Jody Madeira, PhD, codirector of the Center for Law, Society & Culture at Indiana University Bloomington. For older women, who underwent fertility treatments when the science was much newer, every birth truly seemed like a miracle—even if it was best not to talk about the details. Their daughters, who are now accustomed to these medical interventions as relatively common, and who were reared during increasingly open conversations about consent and bodily autonomy, are inclined to see sperm-swapping by doctors for the violation it is. Eve Wiley, whose biological father is her mother’s former fertility doctor, found out that she was donor-conceived at 16, according to both live and written testimony she’s given in support of fertility fraud legislation in several states. Living in small-townTexas,hermotherhadselectedadonorinCalifornia because“shedidn’twanttobeinthegrocerystore,wonderingif someonewasherchild’sbiologicalfather.”Butafterthepremature death of Wiley’s father from a heart condition, her mother became concerned about the medical history of her donor. WhenWileyturned18,shepetitionedforinformation,and a California sperm bank connected her with a man named Steve, according to her testimony. Their records indicated he had supplied the donation purchased by the fertility clinic of KimMcMorries,MD,inNacogdoches,Texas.“Westartedthis beautiful father-daughter relationship,” says Wiley, 35. “He’s

PERSPECTIVES | Fertility Fraud

Much of the new legislation creates a pathway to criminal charges,likeningfertilityfraudtosexualabuse.NewYorkstate senator Samra Brouk, one of the cosponsors of the state’s proposedsenatefertilityfraudbill,wantstoseesuchactsclassified as aggravated sexual abuse. “It is shameful to prey on those struggling with their fertility, and the insertion of reproductive material without consent of the receiving party must be penalized,” Brouk says. Shifting ideas about consent underpin this movement. Hellquist and other advocates note that the reaction of many of their mothers—some of whom may have faced considerable stigma when accessing this care decades ago—tends to be some combination of shame and the desire to sweep things under the rug. But their daughters want to draw a hard line in the sand. “There are a ton of women now saying, ‘Actually, Mom, this is a problem,’ ” Hellquist says.

would have to tell Steve, the man who had come into her life and wrapped her inawarmduvetofpaternallove,thathe wasn’therfather.Evenworse,shewould have to tell her mother. It was tempting to just pretend all of it had never happened. At first, Wiley stalled on telling Steve, but when she did call to break the news, he started sobbing. “I started crying and kept saying, ‘I’m still here,’ ” Wiley says. At the end of the conversation, Steve told her that she was still his daughter. “I was devastated to have to be the one to deliver that news and was worried about how it would affect ourrelationship,butwebandedtogether over the injustice of it all,” she says. When Wiley worked up the courage to tell her mother, her mother went into shock. “She was shaking to the point where my husband thought we needed tocallanambulance.Forherandalotof our moms, it’s really hard to process the trauma of it,” Wiley says. “But also, they love us. They would not change us for anything. And it’s really hard for them to tease apart those two things.”

In addition to the sudden challenges to identity that arise, surprisehomeDNAtestresultscanturnthenotionofviolation on its head. “Normally, if you’re wronged—if you’re in a car accident or robbed or raped—you feel it directly,” Madeira says. But in cases of fertility fraud, there’s often no awareness of a violationuntilatestcomesback.Andinthesecases,theperson whounderwentthefraudulentinsemination—themotherwho wasliedto—istypicallynotthepersonwhodiscoversit.Madeira saystheclosestanalogyiswhensomeoneisrapedwhileunconscious, and then told about it later. WileyreachedouttoMcMorriesforanexplanation,andthe two exchanged multiple letters and emails before the doctor confirmed that he was, in fact, her biological father. He said he told Wiley’s parents that since the CONTINUED ON PAGE 117

Many cases of doctor-father deception have been uncovered through the popularity of take-home genetic testing kits. “There’s a culture of genetic testing in the U.S. that’s quite different from that of other countries,” Madeira says. “We treat it like a party game.” But that game can have very unexpected results. Kara Rubinstein Deyerin, cofounder and CEO of Right to Know, an advocacy, mental health support, and educationorganizationinMapleValley, Washington,thatpromotestransparencyregardinggeneticinformation,saysthattwocommonforms of deception involve donors providing untruthful information and clinics mishandling genetic material. “A heterosexual couple goes in because they’re having fertility issues, and they take the husband’s sample and the wife gets pregnant,” she says. Years later, someone gives them a DNA kit for Christmas, and the results show that the father has other children out there. “They find out that the clinic used the husband’s [leftover] sperm as an anonymous donor without his permission.”

EVE WILEY AND HER MOTHER, MARGO WILLIAMS. the most gentle, amazingly kind person in the world.” Soon Steve was joining her family for holidays; she began calling him “Dad,” and he officiated at her wedding in 2013. Severalyearsago,Wiley’syoungsonstartedtodeveloptroublinghealthproblems;hestruggledtokeepfooddownandhad repeated severe allergic reactions. He had 12 surgeries before his fourth birthday. In the face of a medical mystery, doctors suggested that Wiley, her husband, and son try DNA testing kits. The results indicated that Wiley’s son had celiac disease, a hereditary autoimmune condition. But neither Wiley, her husband,orStevehadceliacintheirfamilies.Wileyalsokeptgetting alertsaboutpotentialfirstcousins,andshedecidedtoreachout toone.HetoldherthatMcMorrieswastheirbiologicalfather.“I waslike,‘No,you’reconfused,’ ”shesays.“ ‘He’sourmoms’doctor.Youseethatdifference?’AndIwasexplainingtohimabout thespermdonorlikehedidn’tunderstand.”Shereachedoutto another DNA match, who she thought might be a half brother, but the genetic connection was unclear. They got talking, and he mentioned that he had an uncle who lived near Wiley. His namewasKimMcMorries.“Myworldjuststopped,”Wileysays. “ItwaslikeIfinallyswappedinthecorrectlensandthepicture became clear. Something was really wrong here.” Wiley’s discovery threatened to upend her entire life. She 73

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTIAN MACDONALD. STYLED BY ALEX WHITE.BY MARISA MELTZER. ANA DE ARMAS, THE RADIANT CUBAN-BORN STAR OF THIS SUMMER’S BLOCKBUSTER THE GRAY MAN, IS COMPLEX, CONTEMPLATIVE...AND EXTREMELY GRATEFUL TO HAVE ESCAPED L.A. Getaway

Blanket, $1,510, boots, $1,910, Louis Vuitton.

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Corset top, Fleur du Mal, $275. Brief, Negative Underwear, $45. Ring, Bulgari, $2,960.

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Her big, much-anticipated films—the Bond movie and this fall’s Blonde, in which she plays Marilyn Monroe—were much delayed.ShereadthescriptforTheGrayManandwasintrigued andreadytowork,but“thescriptstillneededwork.Mycharacter needed work. But the meeting went so well. Those two are so much fun,” she says of the Russo brothers. Her character, Dani Miranda, is a CIA agent. “At the beginning, she’s very by-the-book, and that’s the mission, and it’s a big deal for her and her career and her reputation,” de Armas says. For research, she grilled a CIA agent on the phone about chain of command and trust. WhatisreallyinterestingaboutDaniisthatinanothermovie,she’dbethetokenwomanoneoftheleadswouldfallfor(and to be fair, in a movie featuring Gosling, Evans, and Regé-Jean Page, aka three of the most handsome men in the world, the job wouldn’t be all that taxing). Instead, the dynamic between her character and Gosling’s is friendly and respectful. Which feels like a tiny win for women. “I was very happy to see that they didn’t rush this relationship. Whatever’s going to happen inthefuture,Idon’tknow”—thefilmbegsforafranchise—“but I was happy that the focus was on the mission.” Chris Evans, her friend and three-time costar (in The Gray Man, her breakthrough role in Knives Out, and the upcoming Ghosted, an action-adventure movie she just finished filming in Atlanta), says, “I’m a fan first. There are certain people on camera you can’t stop watching, and her range, from power to vulnerability, is incredibly wide. Every actor has strong suits, but she can go from almost dangerous to exposed and gentle and soft in one scene.”

De Armas grew up in Cuba, in a beach town where her family had neither a computer nor internet service, or even a cell phone. When she was nine, her grandmother died, and her family moved to Havana to be with her grandfather. It was a new world for her, and she felt a little like an outsider in the big city. But it was also what would put her on her careerpath.DeArmasenrolledinaHavanadramaschoolatage 14, surrounded by students of music, circus, and art. She would meet up with friends at the Malecón, Havana’s famed seaside promenade and gathering spot, “playing guitar and drinking rumuntilthenextmorning.Itwaslikeabig,funtheaterfestival and film festival, and it was incredible,” she says. She did three Cuban films. And then, at 18, she left for Spain. ShesettledinMadrid,mostlytakingonTVroles.Shemadea lifeforherselfandfoundagroupoffriends,butaftereightyears, at26,shedecidedtotakeachanceonL.A.There,shefoundthat noneofthepreviousworkshehaddoneinCubaandSpainreally mattered to casting directors. And then there was her English, which wasn’t nearly as fluent as it is now. She attended English classes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for three months to get up to speed.

83 na de Armas is relieved the past couple of years are behind her. “It was weird,” she says. Her father was sick with a non-COVID illness and she wanted to go back to Cuba, where she’s from, but the island was closed for travel during the pandemic. “And then at the same time, I was working a lot, and I felt very lucky.” She shot The Gray Man, the summer action movie directed by Anthony and Joe Russo and costarring Ryan Gosling and Chris Evans,reportedlythebiggest-budgetfilmNetflixhasevermade. Well, and there was a lot of attention focused on her for a widely photographed and gossiped-about relationship with Ben Affleck. How was that, I had to ask. “Horrible,” she says, nodding and opening her big, round hazel eyes for emphasis. Really? “Yeah, which is good,” she says. “That’s one of the reasons why I left L.A.” She had spent seven years in Los Angeles, seeing other performers’ lives become a fishbowl complete with paparazzi trackingyoureverymove.“Goingthroughit[myself]confirmed mythoughtsabout,‘Thisisnottheplaceformetobe,’ ”shesays. “It became a little bit too much. There’s no escape. There’s no way out.” In Los Angeles, she adds, “it’s always the feeling of something that you don’t have, something missing. It’s a city that keeps you anxious.” She lives in New York now, in an apartment with her boyfriend, Tinder exec Paul Boukadakis, and has met me at the Ladurée garden in SoHo, where she’s drinking jasmine tea and sitting with her back to the crowds. The two met during the pandemic through a mutual friend and, with a lot of places closed, spent their first dates at each other’s homes, drinking wine and talking. Not that she’s spent much time in her new city. She filmed TheGrayManinFranceandPragueandatsoundstagesinLong Beach,California.It’shersecondbigactionmovieafterherbrief but splashy turn in the James Bond film No Time to Die. “The truth is, I never thought I was going to be an action actor. It wasn’tmything,”shesays.Yettheoffersstartedcomingin.“You have to be careful, because it’s not what I want to put the focus on. This is not where I’m the most comfortable, to be honest, because I feel ridiculous. And it takes a lot of work.”

Bra, briefs, Louis Vuitton. Ring, Bulgari, $2,960. BEAUTY TIP Embrace your romantic side by spritzing Estée Lauder Beautiful Magnolia Intense Eau de Parfum ($105) onto pulse points for a long-lasting scent of florals and musk.

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The fact that a Latina actor with a Cuban accent was cast in Blonde is not just a sign of her talent but that Hollywood might be becoming slightly more open-minded about its casting practices, and moving—slowly— toward inclusivity. “It’s definitely changing; it’s getting better. But it’s hard to know now, being in my position, because I know it’s not thesameforeverybody,”deArmas says. “And I feel like it’s coming from filmmakers, that diversity hasbecomeamust.Youhavetodo the right thing. Thank God.” She hopes that she’s paving the way for other actors, but at the same time, she doesn’t only want to play women whose defining characteristic is their ethnicity. She wants to find a balance. “I do want to play Latina. But I don’t want to put a basket of fruit on my head every single time,” she says. “Sothat’smyhope,thatIcanshow that we can do anything if we’re given the time to prepare, and if we’re given just the chance, just the chance. You can do any film—Blonde—you can do anything. The problem is that sometimes you don’t even get to the room with the director to sit down and prove yourself.” It is both exhausting and frustrating, she says. Todealwiththeintensescrutinythrustuponher,shedoesn’t Google herself. “I deleted Twitter years ago,” she says. “I have barely been on Instagram for almost a year.” And no secret Instagram accounts–no secret anything. She doesn’t have a lot of time. She travels—she’s about to leave for San Diego for a Louis Vuitton show, the same brand whose western-style blazer she’s wearing—and prepares for roles, which, for action films like The Gray Man, involves training six days a week. She’s going on vacation in Italy this summer and “all the limoncellos and tiramisus I can get, I’m going to get them.” She’s also been shopping online for bikinis and sundresses for the trip. With what free time she has, she FaceTimesfriendsandhangsoutwithherdogs,ElvisandSalsa. To share how far she’s come, she tells me about her recent 34th birthday, which happened on set filmingGhosted. “It was atthebeachand[therewas]afirepit,andwewereworkinguntil almost 1 a.m. At the end, I said, ‘Okay. This is my birthday, so I need a Fireball.’ ” Yes, she recently discovered shot glasses of Fireballs—which she understands most Americans associate with college-era binge drinking—and thinks they’re the best thing she’s ever had. “I had everybody with me: my man, my dogs, Chris and the crew. I wasn’t home having a romantic dinner; I was on set with my people doing what I love and at the beach and having a shot of Fireball,” she says. “So that was my 34th birthday. And it is the happiest I’ve been.”

88 (Chatting in person, she speaks with a somewhat stronger accentthanshedoesspeakingdialogueinfilms.)Thewholething was a humbling experience. She loves that living in New York, she’s only about a threehourdirectflightawayfromHavanaandismuchclosertoSpain than she was in L.A. Do you like living in America, I ask? “I do,” she says. “Sometimes.” I point out that she paused before answering. “Sometimes I do; sometimes I miss Europe.” There’s not a sadness exactly, but a wistfulness to her. She’s balancing an intense drive to make it, to be a huge householdname,withafeelingofbeingdisplaced.“IfeelsometimesthatI’mnotpartoftheCubanartistcommunity,andthen I was in Spain and I feel like I’m not part of the community there— especially because in Spain, I did more TV than movies,” she says. “And then I’m here, and I feel like I’mnotthereyeteither.Youknow? Am I part of the community? I barely know anybody.” She may be exaggerating her outsider status a little bit. When her Knives Out costar Jamie Lee Curtis met her on their first day, Curtis says, “I assumed—and I say thiswithrealembarrassment—because she had come from Cuba, that she had just arrived. I made an assumption that she was an inexperienced, unsophisticated youngwoman.Thatfirstday,Iwas like, ‘Oh, what are your dreams?’ ” She asked because she was so impressed with de Armas that she wanted to introduce her to Steven Spielberg to play Maria in West Side Story, or to Curtis’s godchildrenMaggieandJakeGyllenhaal.Shewassurprisedshealready knew Jake. De Armas is also close with Keanu Reeves, her costar in her first English-language film, Eli Roth’s Knock Knock Curtis says that her friend is neither the complete outsider nor the glamorous woman on the red carpet or in Estée Lauder campaigns. “She is not as fancy as maybe the advertisements would have you believe. She leans in, interested; talking to her is kind of give-and-take. She’s curious and asks a lot of questions,” Curtis says.

She chooses projects based partly on directors she wants to work with. “And then, of course, what’s in there for me,” she says with a sly smile. Blonde is based on the Joyce Carol Oates historical novel about Marilyn Monroe. De Armas went to L.A. to screen-test for the role of Marilyn while filming Knives Out “She showed me a picture of her as Marilyn,” Curtis remembers. “My father was in Some Like It Hot, and I have a lot of photosofmyfatherandMarilyn.Itwasacoupleofstillpictures and one video of her moving through space with no audio. But it was so shocking because she was Marilyn.”

▪ D ARTISTS;FORWARDATINGLESSISMÉLANIEBYMAKEUPPLAY;PITAORLANDOFORPITAORLANDOBYHAIR PRODUCTIONS.HOUSEHOLDERCALLIEANDAGENCY1972BYPRODUCEDARTISTS;MHSATWIGGINSTODDBYDESIGNSET “I DO WANT TO PLAYLATINA. BUT I DON’T WANT WE’REDOTHATTHATTHAT’SSINGLEMYOFTOPUTABASKETFRUITONHEADEVERYTIME.SOMYHOPE,ICANSHOWWECANANYTHINGIFGIVEN JUST THE CHANCE.”

De Armas has a naked ambition thatradiatesoffofher.Shewants todomoreproducing.Shewasan executive producer on Ghosted; for her future project Ballerina, which is part of the John Wick universe and reunites her with Reeves, she was closely involved in finding the writer. “It was reallyimportantformetohireafemalewriter,becausetothatpoint when I got involved in the project, it was only the director, Len Wiseman, and another guy. And I was like, ‘That’s not going to work.’SoIinterviewed,like,fiveorsixfemalewriters.Wehired Emerald Fennell, which I was so proud of.” Of her feminism, de Armas adds, “I grew up in the most macho-man culture, and at the same time, Cuba is just so free in so many other ways that sometimes I’m shocked with the things that I hear that are still conversations in this country. I’m like, ‘We’re still here?’ ”

Bodysuit, Skims, $62. Jeans, The Attico, $780. For details, see Shopping Guide.

HO U SE P R OUD

Left: The house may be most associated with red, but Valentino creative PierpaolodirectorPiccioli is having a love affair with hot pink, which dominated his fall 2022 lineup. Jacket, $3,500, tights, $300, Valentino. Handbag, Valentinoplatforms,$4,500,$1,190,Garavani.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL GOLDBERG. STYLED BY ALEX WHITE.

THIS SEASON, FASHION’S BIGGEST NAMES GOT BACK TO DOING WHAT THEY DO BEST—LOOKING AHEAD WHILE HONORING THEIR RICH DESIGN HERITAGE, FROM CHANEL’S CLASSIC TWEEDS TO PRADA’S WHIMSICAL, UNEXPECTED PAIRINGS.

Right: Corseting is as common as supermodels on the Dolce & Gabbana runway, and the designers found new ways to engage with the motif this season. Top, $5,645, pants, $2,495, Dolce & Gabbana.

Anthony glamazonchanneledVaccarelloanYves-worthyParisianforhislineupofstrong-shoulderedcoatsandtuxedosilhouettes.Coat,$4,190,brooch,$695,SaintLaurentbyAnthonyVaccarello.

Balenciaga’s hit mid-aughts moto bag gets a very 2022 update with this $995,$6,950,bootoutside-the-boxhybrid.Coat,turtleneck,$825,earrings,gloves,$325,bootbag,$3,250,Balenciaga.

Against a

$2,400,$2,200,necklaces,$875,thigh-highshorts,Jacket,sinceChanel’stheshowViardbackdrop,tweedVirginieunveiledacelebratingfabric,oneofkeycodesitsinception.$8,300,$1,400,socks,boots,$2,400,fromvanitypurse,Chanel.

Creative director Kim Jones drew on past Fendi collections from 1986 and 2000 for this season’s print-centric offering. Dress, $3,190, bra, brief, earrings, $770, gloves, $770, handbag, $3,750, Fendi. BEAUTY TIP Prevent dryness with Dove Body Love Moisture Boost Body Cleanser ($8), infused with hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin.

pumps,handbag,$6,400,combo.andmenswearofferingsRafForbreadarejuxtapositionsUnlikelyMiucciaPrada’sandbutter.fall,sheandSimonsshowedlikethisjacketsheerskirtJacket,skirt,$2,250,$3,300,Prada.

Hollywood, from Richard Gere in American Gigolo to red-carpetcountlessdenizens, has beneﬁted from Giorgio Armani’s talents. This season, he returned the favor with pieces worthy of the ﬁlm colony’s Art Deco heyday. Coat, blouse, $1,395, trousers, $1,395, Giorgio Armani.

Knitwear and tomato red, two Max $195,$875,fallteamsignatures,Maraupinthislook.Sweater,cap,MaxMara. BEAUTY TIP For withcream($29),ProtectionEverydayAnewtrysunhydratingprotection,AvonIsaKnoxSolaireFaceLotionagel-sunscreenSPF50.

Inspired by the Surrealist game Exquisite

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Dubbed the “King of Cling,” Monsieur Alaïa was known for his sinuous knits, a house signature Pieter Mulier is committed to carrying on. Dress, $1,430, pants, $7,510, shoulder bag, $2,400, Alaïa.

Jacket,fashionableandstock-in-trade,MoschinoJeremyScottisfollowinginhisfootsteps.$2,815,blouse,$1,295,skirt,$1,125,necklace,$900,belt,$1,460,pumps,$1,400,Moschino.Tights,Wolford,$60.

Playful, maximalist takes on suiting were a Franco

Loewe’s sandals,saucer.notoriousMerettrimmedwithofinspirationrevival.fashion’saAndersonJonathanhasbeenkeyproponentofSurrealistForfall,hedrewfromartiststheperiod—asthisshearling-dress,evokingOppenheim’sfurcupandDress,$5,100,$950,Loewe.

Mashing up periodstimeisa Nicolas combinestrademark.GhesquièreHere,theLouisVuittoncreativedirectorthrowbacksuitingwithmodern-dayglitz(andkicks).Coat,dress,shirt,tie,sneakers,LouisVuitton. BEAUTY TIP For healthy hair, try a nourishing serum, like Sisley-Paris Hair Rituel Soothing Rebalancing Cure($142), to calm the scalp.

Matthew M. Williams looked to ornamental motifs from Hubert de $4,750,skirt,influences.hismingledandarchives,Givenchy’slikerufflespearls,andthemwithownstreetwearTops,boots,handbag,Givenchy.

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Michael Kors often riffs on his Studio 54 days, where this discofabulous ensemble would fit right in. Jumpsuit, $2,490, wrap (in hand), $4,590, Michael Kors Collection.

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Gabriela Hearst took the Coat,genderLugli’sprofessorlookingdirectionmorefemininefamouslyChloéinaandrogynousthisseason,toStanfordEmanuelescholarshiponandarthistory.Chloé,$9,170.

The go-go micromini, a Versace staple, gets grounded with an oversize blazer. Jacket, $7,925, T-shirt, $650, skirt, $2,025, stockings, $2,025, chokers, from $625, gloves, platforms, $1,525, Versace.

BEAUTY TIP After styling, apply JVN Complete Nourishing Shine Drops ($22) from mid-lengths to ends to make your hair look extra glossy.

The classic Bar jacket, part of necklace,skirt,supervision.GraziarevampNewgroundbreakingDior’sLook,getsaunderMariaChiuri’sexpertJacket,headband,boots,Dior.

Drawing on shade.unforgettableofheritage,Veneta’sBottegaleatherMatthieuBlazycreatedonetheshowpiecesoftheseason:aswingyskirtinanpurpleSweater,skirt,earrings,pumps,BottegaVeneta.Fordetails,seeShoppingGuide.

Jumpsuit, Alexandre Vauthier, $1,650. Bulgari Eden The Garden of Wonders earrings, necklace, rings, Bulgari.

Rising PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREG WILLIAMS. STYLED BY CHARLES VARENNE. BUSY ACTRESS EIZA GONZÁLEZ, BULGARI’S FIRST LATINA AMBASSADOR FOR NORTH AMERICA, SHINES BRIGHT FROM THE ROOFTOPS OF LONDON. e i z a

Coat, Prada. Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewelry watch, Bulgari. Ankle boots, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,425.

BEAUTY TIP Achieve shiny, sleek locks by applying OGX Smoothing + Liquid Pearl Luminescent Serum ($8) to damp hair, then styling as usual.

113 eetering high above the city of London feels an apt way to capture rising star Eiza González. The Mexico City–born actress has enjoyed quite the year, shuttling between the UK and NYC for two major projects: Apple TV+’s climate-change drama Extrapolations,andNetflix’ssci-fiseriesTheThree-BodyProblem

It’spreciselyGonzález’scandoraboutherexperience,inaddition to her visibility, that makes her appointment as a brand ambassador for Roman high jewelry house Bulgari—the first Latina for North America—so meaningful. “I’m so incredibly honored to work with the Bulgari family,” González says. “And I love that their jewelry embodies this incredible femininity while also feeling contemporary, bridging Old Hollywood glamour with modernity.” It’s impossible to see the glamorous González sporting such Bulgari icons as the articulated diamond Serpenti necklace and watch and not be reminded of another Mexican actress (and passionate jewelry collector), the late icon María Félix, whom González is set to play in an upcoming biopic that she is also producing.

“I haven’t done TV for 10 years,” says González, who got her start early in telenovelas and managed to navigate the treacherous waters from teen stardom to adult success. “This is the creative aid I needed, to really live and breathe the character for a long period of time and to shadow different directors, which is something that you rarely get to do in film.” Which invites the questionofwhereGonzálezisnextsettinghersights.“Ofcourse Iwanttodirect,butitscaresmetodeath,”Gonzálezsays.“Ithink a lot of my fear comes from being an immigrant woman and forever feeling like I was asking for permission to just be here, despite knowing that I’m talented and have earned my place.”

Like Félix, González has her own unique relationship with jewelry: “I made my first significant jewelry purchase about 15 years ago, after receiving my first big paycheck,” González says. “It was a watch. I felt I had earned it and I viewed it as a smart investment.” The actress sees jewelry as a timeless store of not just monetary value, but memories, whether evoked by family heirloomsorherownred-carpetmomentswithBulgari.“Being a brand ambassador is not just putting me in the public eye, it’s having a larger impact on my life—my personal history as a womanwithmyownfamily,”saysGonzález,whohasgiftedher motherandbrotherwithBulgaripieces.“Andoneday,mygrandchildren will see these ELLE photos and say, ‘My grandmother wore this!’ ”

—NAOMI ROUGEAU

Dress, Alaïa, $5,200. High Jewelry Serpenti earrings, bracelet, Bulgari.

MACDONALD.CORDELIAANDFORDBOBBYPRODUCEDWOLFF;NIKKIBYMAKEUPGROUP;WALLTHEATWOODCHRISTIANBYHAIR

Coat, leggings, $650, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. High Jewelry Serpenti necklace, ring, Bulgari. For details, see Shopping Guide. “I THINK A LOT OF MY FEAR COMES FROM BEING AN IMMIGRANT WOMAN AND FOREVER FEELING LIKE I WAS ASKING FOR PERMISSION TO JUST BE HERE. BUT I KNOW I’M TALENTED AND I’VE EARNED MY PLACE.”

POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. dealwith.Sowhynottrytorelatetothat on some level?”

▪ CONTINUED FROM PAGE 69 MIKAELA SHIFFRIN COVER ANA DE ARMAS Polo shirt, hoop earrings, $715, by

FOR MOST OF SPORTS HISTORY, professional athletes were expected to be as peerless in mind as they were in body. In making herselfvulnerable,Shiffrinfollowsgreats likeNaomiOsakaandSimoneBiles,who have publicly prioritized their mental well-being. Osaka tells me that, taken together, these decisions by sports stars to speak up and opt out are shepherding in a new era—one where it’s okay to not be okay. “More than ever, athletes are speaking up without shame or stigma, and rather than being looked at as weak, they are being regarded as human,” she says.“Thisneedstobecomethestandard rather than the exception.”

Atthedepthofherstruggles,Shiffrin considered retiring from ski racing altogether and going to medical school, like her dad, or becoming a marine biologist. But speaking out helped her “sort through her brokenhearted soul and emotionally devastated brain,” Eileen says. Just as Shiffrin was ready to write herself off, she came back one month after the Beijing Olympics and made a World Cup podium in Lenzerheide, Switzerland, with fans like tennis great Roger Federer, who owns a house nearby, cheering her on. After placing second, she told reporters: “I finally just enjoyed skiing for a day.” She would go on to win the World Cup Overall, posing for photos with the 20-pound crystal globe that goes to all champs. It was her fourth world title, tying her with the previous American record holder, Lindsey Vonn. Another trophy for her already-crowded case. There are still more records to break and World Cups to win. Shiffrin plans to return next ski season armed with new insight and that signature swagger on the slopes that never wavered, not even at her nadir. Until then, she’s making time for herself: getting massages, checking books off her must-read list, watching Yellowstone with her mom, and making up riffs on the guitar, which she took up during quarantine. She has also started seeing a grief counselor, which helps her cope with her father’s death. Back at her house in Colorado, Shiffrin shows me a patinaed thumb ring on her left hand. It belonged to her dad, and has an engraving of an openwinged eagle, which, she explains, is a symbol of power and resilience in many cultures. “Sometimes,” she says, “the simple act of trying is all you can do.” Louis com.Vuitton,us.com.mariehelenedetaillac-Hélènecom.negativeunderwear.Negativefleurdumal.com.com.gabrielahearst.Hearst,FleurduMal,Underwear,Marie-deTaillac,Louislouisvuitton. Louis 866-VUITTON.Vuitton, PAGES 78–79: Flora and Henri, florahenri. com. Falke, falke. com. Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine. com. PAGES 80–81: Bulgari, bulgari.com. PAGE 82: Polo Ralph Lauren, ralphlauren. com. 84–85:PAGES Louis louisvuitton.com.Vuitton, PAGES 86–87: Celine by Hedi Slimane, Celine (NYC). PAGE 89: Skims, skims. com. The theattico.com.Attico, HOUSE PROUD PAGE 90: Valentino, Valentino Garavani, Valentino nationwide.boutiques

us.com.mariehelenedetaillac-fromHélèneRings866-VUITTON.Vuitton,byMarie-deTaillac,$850, TABLE CONTENTSOF PAGE 20: Michael Kors 800-BVLGARI.Jewelrycom.michaelkors.Collection,BulgariHighSerpenti, EDITOR’S LETTER PAGE 24: Celine by Hedi falke.com.us.com.mariehelenedetaillac-Hélèneceline.com.Slimane,Marie-deTaillac,Falke, ACCESSORIES PAGE 43: Bracelet by Wempe, wempe.com.$23,775, SHOP PAGE 48: Earring by twistonline.com.$3,300Almasika,(forpair), SHIFFRINMIKAELA IS STILL THE BEST SKIER IN THE WORLD PAGES 66–67: Marni, Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). PAGE 69: Jonathan jonathansimkhai.com.Simkhai, ANA’S GETAWAY PAGE 75: Gabriela

ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXVII, Number 10) (August 2022) is published monthly by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief ExecutiveOfficer;WilliamR.HearstIII,Chairman;FrankA.Bennack,Jr.,ExecutiveViceChairman. HearstMagazineMedia,Inc.:DebiChirichella,President;KateLewis,ChiefContentOfficer;Regina Buckley, Chief Financial and Strategy Officer & Treasurer; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. © 2022 byHearstMagazineMedia,Inc.Allrightsreserved.ELLE®isusedunderlicensefromthetrademark owner,HachetteFilipacchiPresse.PeriodicalspostagepaidatNewYork,NY,andadditionalmailing offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian distribution) sales agreement No. 40012499. Editorial and Advertising Offices: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. Subscription Prices: United States and possessions: $15 for one year. Canada: $48 for one year. Other international locations: $87 for one year. Subscription Services: ELLE will, upon receipt of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment of that order so as to provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 4–6 weeks. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service.elle.com or write to Customer Service Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. From time to time, we make our subscriber list available to companies that sell goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such offers via postal mail, please send your current mailing label or an exact copy to: ELLE, Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. You can also visit preferences.hearstmags.com to manage your preferences and opt out of receiving marketing offers by email. To assure quicker service, enclose your mailing label when writing to us or renewing your subscription. Renewal orders must be received at least eight weeks prior to expiration to assure continued service. Manuscripts, drawings, and other material submitted must beaccompaniedbyastamped,self-addressedenvelope.ELLEcannotberesponsibleforunsolicited material. Printed in USA. Canadian registration number 126018209RT0001.

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For her, reckoning with the fact that her doctor father simply doesn’t care has been the hardest part. “After that, I went toaprettydarkplace,”Portugalsays.“My husbandhadtoworkfromhometomake sure I didn’t do anything stupid.”

DISGUSTED AND DISTRAUGHT , Wiley reached out to attorneys—only to be advised that McMorries did not violate Texas law and that a civil action was unlikely to be successful. And so Wiley filed a medical board complaint againstMcMorriesin2019.Themedical board filed a formal complaint against McMorries with the Texas State Office ofAdministrativeHearings,buthechallengedthatcomplaintbyclaimingitwas outside a seven-year statute of limitations.McMorriesmaintainedhislicense and continued to practice until his retirement in 2021. He has never admitted to any wrongdoing, or been found to have violated any law or ethical rule. Thestunninglackofrecourseturned Wiley into an activist. Her Instagram account, once full of images of herself with a perfect blowout, smiling with an arm around her husband, or beaming at her joyful children in matching pastel outfits, has gradually given way to alltext posts that indicate her laser focus on criminalizing fertility fraud. She’s working her way across the country, partnering with victims and lawmakers on bills state by state. Wiley started with Texas, which became the first state to classify fertility fraud as sexual assaultin2019.“It’simportantthatthese initiatives are victim-led,” Wiley says. “It has been so central to my healing.” She’s also lobbying Texas for an exemption to the prevailing seven-year statute of limitations—ensuring that women have an option for accountability when surprise DNA test results surface, often decadesSomelater.accused doctors have insisted they were simply trying to fulfill their patients’ desire to have a baby at a time when sperm samples were harder to come by. “[McMorries’s] attorney ended up quoting my mother saying that she desperately wanted to conceive and would have tried anything,” Wiley says. But she finds that explanation disingenuous.“It’sthesamestrategythatabusers use in sexual harassment cases—blame victims and present themselves as the injured party.” The cold, detached, and sometimes flippant attitude exhibited by some of the accused doctors can also complicate efforts to pursue personal connection.WhenTraciPortugalgotthe shocking results of a home DNA test in 2019, according to testimony she gave in supportoffertilityfraudlegislationbeing considered in Washington State, she decided to reach out to the fertility doctor she identified as her father. “Despite an initial discussion with the doctor about my findings, he has continued to ignore allfurtherrequeststoprovideanswersof what happened or to provide important medicalhistoryformeandmychildren,” Portugal said in her testimony. “As such I continue to feel physically violated by those we should have been able to trust.”

Whilenooneisobligatedtoturntheir painintopurpose,manyofthewomeninvolved in this advocacy movement have found refuge in the pursuit of systemic change—though it comes at a price.

“My current label of ‘the girl whose gynecologist was her father’ is not a thrillingpositiontobein,”Hellquistsays.“But thiswastheonlyoptionIsawasawayto hold him accountable. I don’t want any other woman to pick up the phone and have someone tell her, ‘There’s nothing you can do.’ ” Still, it can be hard to get up every day and hold your hand over the flame. Hellquist’s initial reaction to her paternity shock was a mix of revulsion and shame. She blamed herself for not severing the relationship sooner. “My gut was trying to tell me he’s not a good dude,” she says. “And I kept wanting to believe my mom’s miracle story.”

“There were tears streaming down my face,” she says. “The idea of having a sister was something I had never been able to imagine before.” During the pandemic, the half siblings had a regular Zoom call. And many of her half siblings joined Dixon’s lawsuit to make it a class action, which was settled in 2021 for over $13.3 million (Canadian). According to a CBC report, Barwin denied all legal claims throughout the lawsuit, and maintains that the negotiated settlement is not an admission of wrongdoing. In 2019, the Discipline Committee of the College of Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario revoked Barwin’s medical license and orderedhimtopayafineafterdetermining that he had engaged in professional misconduct by using his own sperm or the wrong sperm with women seeking insemination treatments.

Portugal’s efforts to heal have been multipronged. In addition to supporting fertility fraud legislation in Washington State, presently being considered by house and state senate sponsors, she found comfort in Facebook support groups. “It’s so helpful to know you’re notalone,”shesays.Thesenseofcommunity—she refers to the other members as her“siblings”—spurredhertocreateher own website, Donor Deceived, in which she offers resources and maps dozens of donorfraudcasesaroundtheworld.She also collects testimonials from stunned individuals struggling with their sudden new identities, strained family relationships, and dozens of potential half siblings. “I was uneasy with the circumstances through which I came into the world,” writes one anonymous woman. “Knowing who my biological father was became a burdensome gift.”

donorspermwasnotworking,hewould augment it with another anonymous sampleinordertoincreasethelikelihood of conception, and that the couple consented to that approach. He never suggests, however, that he informed them that those anonymous samples might be his own, rather that he was only trying to help the couple conceive. McMorries hassaidbecausehehadconsenttousean anonymous donor, he had no obligation to inform Wiley’s parents that he would be a donor. His tone breezy, he invited Wiley and her mother to visit him and his son, now in practice with him. But Wiley pressed him. “I want to believe you,andIwanttobelievethiscamefrom an altruistic place in helping a couple conceive,” she wrote. “You must know how this looks given everything I was provided with. However, I can’t imagine my parents agreeing to their fertility doctorfatheringtheirchild.”(McMorries declined to comment for this article.)

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 73 WHEN THE DOCTOR IS IN YOUR DNA 117

Some women have had better luck forgingtieswiththeirnewfoundsiblings. In 2016, Rebecca Dixon’s parents began to doubt her father’s paternity after her mother saw a random post on Facebook that stated two blue-eyed parents can’t have a brown-eyed child. “And I have verydarkeyes,”saysDixon,32,wholives inOttawa.Apaternitytestconfirmedthat Dixon’sdadwasnotherbiologicalfather; it was their fertility specialist in Ottawa, Norman Barwin, MD. That same year, Dixon sued Barwin, alleging he used his own sperm or the wrong sperm, according to her lawsuit. Dixon, an only child, remembers the emotional experience of getting a phone call indicating that one of her half sisters wanted to meet.

ButthethingthatnowspursHellquist on is her 13-year-old daughter, who she hopes will benefit from evolving conversations about consent, bodily autonomy, and the right to walk out on any “skeevy” situation without internalizing self-doubt. “I could not look her in the face one day and tell her that I did not use my voice,” Hellquist says. “That I did nothing about it.” ▪

LIBRA SEPT 23–OCT 22 Conflict avoidance may be a Libra specialty, but as Mars enters your candid ninth house this August, you won’t be able to stomach inauthenticity in your relationships. Suddenly, you’re the one calling people on the carpet and confessing to buried desires that could rock a cargo ship. While this may clear a few decks, knowing who can ride these waves with you will be affirming.

LEO JULY 23–AUG 22

Your squad is about to learn just how high you can turn up your enthusiasm. As Mars invigorates your collaborative eleventh house, fill your dance card. Your festival plus-one doesn’t have to be your workout buddy. An open approach takes the pressure off relationships that are too close.

PISCES FEB 19–MAR 20 Fortify your inner circle, because for the coming seven months, your relationship mantra is quality over quantity. Reconnect to relatives and close friends. You’ll need support during this emotional cycle, which can heighten your sensitive nature. If dynamics feel strained, find one-onone time. Long lunches or a getaway can be healing salves.

ARIES MAR 21–APR 19 You’re a bona fide original, but proactive Mars pushes you to find others this August. They may be close by. Mingle locally to scout a new squad, or organize a meetup of thought leaders. What starts as picnic conversation could evolve into a groundbreaking collaboration.

SAGITTARIUS NOV 22–DEC 21 So many offers, so little time! With Mars in Gemini doubling down in your partnership zone, you’ll be fielding requests left and right. Your newfound popularity could strain your time, so say no to invites that aren’t in alignment with your objectives. Conserve your energy for opportunities and relationships that can go the distance.

AQUARIUS JAN 20–FEB 18 Consider who truly sees you. With Mars energizing your zone of fame and self-expression, surround yourself with a crew that amplifies your shine. While your passionate side might not be for everyone, toning it down is not an option during this vivid seven-month cycle. Reciprocity remains essential, so use any newfound attention to signalboost your friends in return.

AUGUST

This month is about partnership, from matching outﬁts to collabs. Mars is in Gemini for the ﬁrst time in two years, enjoying an extended voyage from August 20 to March 25, 2023. Normally, Mars dwells in a single sign for seven weeks, but thanks to its biennial retrograde, we get seven months of cooperative energy. Pairing is caring!

“THE STRENGTH CARD IN A TAROT DECK IS ASSOCIATED WITH LEO. IT SHOWS TRUE STRENGTH WHEN WE ACT FROM COMPASSION INSTEAD OF FORCE.” —NICOLE TWISTONLINE.COMSORELLINA,PENDANTFORZAANDEMERALD,GOLD,CODESIGNER,CAROSELLA,SORELLINASAPPHIRE,DIAMOND,MALACHITELATAROTCARDNECKLACE,

TAURUS APR 20–MAY 20 Money matters benefit from partnership while Mars cruises through your cash-friendly second house. This is no time to loosen up formalities. Spell out terms, whether that means setting an hourly rate or splitting profits. Clarity is the best insurance for ongoing goodwill.

GUIDE.SHOPPINGSEEDETAILS,FORDESIGNER;THEOFCOURTESY

ASTRO TWINS

Horoscope

Wherever your loyalties lie, expect to become a lot more public about your beliefs. As Mars rises to the top of your chart, it hands you the leadership mantle. Where do you want to direct people’s attention? Allies will show up to support the causes you’re backing. Remember this old chestnut: With great power comes great responsibility.

SCORPIO OCT 23–NOV 21 You’re nobody’s sidepiece, so if you’re being treated like less than a VIP, level the playing field. Begin flowing your precious energy toward other relationships. The dynamic distance should soon wake up the offender to what they’re missing. But here’s the twist: Autonomy may become your new jam as you reconnect with lost parts of yourself.

VIRGO AUG 23–SEPT 22

CAPRICORN DEC 22–JAN 19 Mars in your helpful sixth house makes acts of service your love language, but who’s going to be there for you? Find people who can fill in gaps in your planner. Maybe it’s a trainer to keep your workouts impactful or a meal delivery service. Create a healthy flow of give-and-take so you can support your people without burning yourself out.

CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 22 Embracing uncertainty isn’t your way, but while Mars freefalls through your twelfth house, it’s the path to security. You can never fully know someone. Stop looking for a guarantee, and enjoy the exchange of energy. See the AstroTwins, Tali and Ophira Edut, in Cosmic Love, out on Amazon Prime Video this month.

GEMINI MAY 21–JUNE 21 Trendsetters pull ahead in August, but temper competitive urges. With Mars in your sign for seven months, the crown is yours. Use it with care, since victory can be intimidating. Be gracious, and the quiet person could become an ally for life.