The Nyika Plateau

THE NYIKA PLATEAU If asked where your favourite place

Zambia’s North Eastern in Zambia or even Africa is, the Nyika Plateau always comes to my mind. I have been visiting this high plateau, situated in both Zambia and Malawi, for over 50 Highlands years. It was a favourite family destination in my teens. So what exactly comes to mind? Views, open skies, dramatic escarpments, rolling grassland

By: Robin Pope Photos: Robin Pope and dense montane forests, along with good plains game, excellent birding and a remarkable variety of seasonal flowers and orchids. The Nyika Plateau, along with the Livingstone Mountains of Tanzania, Mount Gorongosa inMozambique and theVumba and Inyanga Rangesof Zimbabwe were formed by the same forces which created the East African rift. This rift also createdthe third largest freshwater lake in Africa - Lake Malawi -which lies just east of and below the Nyika. The drive from Lusaka takessome 22 hours, and as you drive up the winding dirt road towards the escarpment you can glimpse steep mountainous buttresses rising up into the clouds. The slopes of the Nyika Plateau are cloaked with sub-evergreen forest but as you travel higher into the foothills you will notice thatthe deeply incised river valleys are now covered by submontane forest. There is a dramatic moment as you breakout of the miombo forest onto the high plateau at roughly 2000 m (6,600 ft.) Youare immediately aware of the brightness of the sun, and the exceptionalclarity and freshness of the air, which carriesscents and fragrances of flowers and herbaceous mountain species. There is also a marked decrease in temperature. Upland grasslands stretch away, interspersed with rolling hills and granite outcrops, while a mosaic of pristine relic montane forest patches lie in the heads of the valleys. Heathers and protea heaths, dambos(shallow wetlands)and marshes cover the grasslands of the plateau and these aquifers and drainages feed into streams and rivers, which plunge down the escarpment providing essential water to the lowlands of Zambia and Malawi. The highest peak on the Nyika is Nganda Peak which reaches an elevation of 2605 m (8,596 ft).From this peak, on a clear day, Lake Malawi and the Livingstone Mountains of southern Tanzania are visible. The winding dirt road up the Nyika escarpment is reasonably good but it is essential to have a 4 x 4 vehicle with

For information see cawsmw.com. Nyika is usually accessed by road from Rhumpi in Malawi. You will require foreign exchange, passports, visas, and Comesa insurance for the vehicle. There are also flights into Chelinda – see www.flyulendo.com. A night stop at the Protea Hotel, Chipata, is recommended.

high clearance. After a longish drive, and with the satisfaction of being on the home stretch, plus feeling the bite of the cool air, thoughts tend to stray to where to stay, a warm meal, possibly a small tipple and a roaring fire.

There is presently one accommodation option -soon to be two. The first, Chelinda, is managed by the wellestablished Malawian company, Central African Wilderness Safaris. Chelinda is located in the centre of the Nyika and has three-tiered accommodation: a five-star lodge, or comfortable self-catering cottages and a campsite. The second alternative will be the recently refurbished but not yet reopened Zambian Rest House, owned by the Zambian Government. The historic Zambian Rest House, opened in the 1950s, is located close to the western escarpment and from here there are spectacular views of the Makutu and Vipama mountains of easternZambia.

The Nyika is known for its bracing yet thin air, spectacular views, clear streams and good walking country. There are more than 200 species of orchid (seen in the rains), over 400 species of bird, a number of which are endemic, and certain rarities do occur. The majority of the plains game species can be foundwithin a 10kilometre radius of Chelinda and include numerous roan, eland, zebra, reedbuck and bushbuck and occasional bush pig and hyena – watch out for klipspringer on the granite rocks. Increasingly, elephant are frequenting the plateau and this year a further 34 have been translocated to the Nyika. The extensive relic montane forest patches are festooned with ferns and lianas. A number of the tree species grow to over 40m (132 ft) in height, and in these mysterious forests live trogons and hornbills, leopard,blue and red forest duiker andblue monkeys. Chelinda has three dams along the Chelinda stream, which have been stocked with trout since the 1960s andfly fishing is possible at certain times of the year. We visited the Nyika in March 2017 and already we have planned to spend Christmas in this wonderful environment.