Incomparable Ngamo

Writer: Sarah Kerr Photography: Sarah Kerr, Mike Myers, Dana Allen

In November of 2017, I had the privilege of visiting Hwange (formerly Wankie) National Park. Hwange is the largest national park in Zimbabwe; its border begins an hour south of Victoria Falls, and its varied landscapes stretch south and east along the border with Botswana. To give an idea of the huge size of the park: it is slightly smaller than East Timor at 14,651 square kilometres (5,657 square miles). As a result of its size, the park is notable for encompassing a variety of habitats and for the relatively low numbers of visitors enjoying its wildlife.

The rains in Zimbabwe last from November through to April and this part of the year is known as ‘the green season’ for good reason. In response to the late afternoon showers and warm weather that characterize the season, the land explodes with lush foliage in every shade of green imaginable.

Visiting Hwange in ‘the green season’ is exhilarating and offers a completely different experience to the harsh beauty found in the dry winter. With the abundant supply of water and food, animals disperse over huge distances and can be harder to find. However, this is also when a special corner of southern Hwange springs to life, an area known as the Ngamo Plains. This feature, just under 10 kilometres wide, is what remains of a fossil lakebed.

In the dry winter, the plains are sandy and desolate, swept with harsh winds that blow dust across their expanse and seem incapable of sustaining life. In summer they literally bloom as the dust transforms to a thick carpet of wildflowers and grass, interspersed with shallow pans of water

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Dry Season

Sarah Kerr

Sarah is a qualified photographer, graphic designer, writer and media maker with over 10 years of experience. She lives in Zimbabwe and is passionate about sharing the diverse beauty and complex stories of her country of birth.

Visit sarahkerrdesign.com to see more of her work.

Info Box

RAINY Season

I stayed at the simple, and in my mind perfect, Davison’s Camp. The remote camp is situated in the private Linkwasha Concession – one of the most prolific wildlife areas in Hwange National Park – and the ninetented camp is run by Wilderness Safaris. Davison’s Camp is the closest camp to the Ngamo Plains and thus a great choice for anyone wanting to experience Hwange in ‘the green season’ at the best price with all the amenities. With rustic glamour, feather duvets, steaming hot showers, 24-hour electricity and views of the waterhole from each ensuite room it offers a wonderful experience.

During my two-night stay, I was lucky enough to encounter some very large herds of breeding elephants on my drive into camp and a magnificent pride of 13 lions on the Ngamo Plains the following morning. I was guided by Douglas Muyambo who has been with Wilderness Safaris for 23 years in various roles.

“there is nothing that can compare to the rains in Africa”

that make the area one of Hwange’s biggest wetlands. The plains provide exceptional game viewing and birding as large herds of grazing animals are attracted to the sweet couch grass (Cynodon dactylon) found on the plains, and predators follow closely.

It was here, on the edge of the Ngamo Plains, that I found myself seated in the back of an open safari vehicle, spellbound by the sight in front of me – a vast green plain sweeping to a distant tree line. The grass appeared manicured by the large herds of zebra and wildebeest that moved upon it, navigating between thousands of white storks (Ciconia ciconia). Overhead, yellow-billed kites wheeled in an inky-blue sky, held aloft by the ever-growing breeze. Most spectacular of all were the yellow eyes and commanding presence of two large male lions that sat mere metres from us, holding us captive with their gaze. The closest lion rose with the characteristic grace of all felines and stretched forward, bottom in the air and claws flexing. Muscle and sinew rippled down his flank as he shook his head and gave a spine-tingling snarl in response to the crackle of thunder that echoed across the sky; the atmosphere was literally electric.

It’s hard to describe the feeling that overcame me. I was overwhelmed by the dark blue of the thunderous sky, and the smell of petrichor, that invigorating scent of rain on the earth wafting in on the advancing wind. The plaintive cry of a watchful fish eagle made me shiver, lending its magic to the sheer beauty of the scene laid out before me.

This is the beauty of the rainy season in Zimbabwe – there is nothing that can compare to the rains in Africa and I felt connected to something ancient and primal. In the summer afternoons clouds gather, life-giving storms approach and just as quickly they sweep away, leaving blue skies and a world washed new, free of dust, rejuvenated and in bloom. Animals drop their babies, eager to take advantage of the new bounty. The hopeful new shoots of spring unfurl, young animals take their first wobbly steps, migratory birds provide splashes of colour as they dart from bush to bush and the area has a softness and beauty you won’t find at other times of the year.

As we watched, a further 11 lions appeared. The lionesses and their cubs meandered out of the tree line that edges Ngamo and crossed the plain before settling in what can best be described as a ‘puddle of lions’ close to the males. Although this sighting was an incredibly special one it wasn’t unusual. Ngamo is known for offering great sightings of large game and predators at a time of year when these can be hard to come by elsewhere in the park. rains bring. As a photographer, ‘the green season’ is a wonderland. The warmth of the light and the contrast and colour provided by dark skies, clouds and green vegetation add beauty to even ordinary subject matter.

The wet months are also the most exciting for birding in Zimbabwe. Many summer migrants are present and local birds are in full breeding plumage, conspicuously trying to attract mates with both ‘song and dance’. The plains are an important breeding ground for many wetland birds and as we left the lions basking in the day’s dwindling light and headed back to camp, Douglas, my guide, rattled off species as we saw them: ‘shafttailed whydah, red-crested korhaan, hooded vulture, steppe buzzard, red-billed teal, Egyptian geese, greater flamingo, southern ground hornbill, European roller, whitefronted bee-eater, southern carmine beeeater, swallow-tailed bee-eater, lesser spotted eagle, yellow-billed kite, woollynecked stork, African sacred ibis, African fish eagle, Bradfield’s hornbill, black-chested snake eagle, secretary bird...’

Hwange has recorded over 420 bird species and the variety was truly impressive, even for a non-twitcher such as I am. Having a great guide who can bring to life the minutiae of your surroundings as well as the large animals adds greatly to the experience. With Douglas’s keen eye, my stay was greatly enhanced as he explained the important role termite alates (winged reproductive termites that take flight after rains in warm weather) play in the ecosystem, the role of the flehmen response in lions and much more.

After an incredible day in the bush, we wound our way back to camp through a grove of false mopane trees and stopped to admire the resident grey crowned cranes. It was a fitting end to a perfect day as the sunset glowed red above the backlit cranes and Hwange’s dramatic skyline.

TL Z

Across the Border: News in Brief

AFRICA ALBIDA TOURISM ANNOUNCES APPOINTMENT OF NEW GENERAL MANAGER

Africa Albida Tourism (AAT) hospitality group is delighted to announce the appointment of Dustin Kennedy as general manager of its Victoria Falls Safari Lodge estate.

Mr. Kennedy took up his new position in Victoria Falls on 12th February 2018.

AAT chairman Dave Glynn said Mr. Kennedy’s fivestar experience in Zanzibar, along with a host of experience in the hotel industry in many countries, makes him ideally qualified for the group’s existing needs and aspirations for going forward.

AAT’s Victoria Falls Safari Lodge estate is made up of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Victoria Falls

Safari Club, Victoria Falls Safari Suites, Lokuthula Lodges and The Boma – Dinner & Drum

Show. WILDERNESS SAFARIS’ CONSERVATION EFFORTS

Wilderness Safaris funds a number of conservation and community initiatives in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park totalling more than US$500,000 annually. These include: park management, research and security, and community projects such as fire breaks, road maintenance, game water supply, an elephant movement study, Children in the Wilderness and the Scorpions Anti-Poaching Unit.

Kafue River Lodge sits within 143 hectares of private grounds on the banks of its namesake river, bordering the Kafue National Park. As part of the vast Lunga Luswishi Game Management Area, a range of driving, boating and walking safaris are offered to enable guests to get up close to a stunning diversity of flora and fauna.

The lodge’s four rustic-chic chalets each open onto a teak sundeck, come with two comfy queen beds and a fireplace, and are peppered with wooden furniture handcrafted on site by Zambian carpenters. Towards the rear of every cosy dwelling is an indoor bathroom with a freestanding bath, while an outdoor shower offers spectacular views of the bushveld.

Graced by a large teak sundeck, the lodge’s main lapa and neighbouring bar and lounge overlook the river.

Delicious meals can be enjoyed in the lapa, on the decking or outside under the velvety star-studded skies. The lodge also offers bush breakfasts, lunches and even dinners on the surrounding plains and islands.