Elephant Check-In

Writer: Mahina Perrot Photography: The Bushcamp Company

Nothing could have prepared me for the sense of awe, wonder and amazement as I watched, for the first time, two big bull elephants walk through the reception at Mfuwe Lodge, situated in the gorgeous South Luangwa National Park, in late October 2016. Elephants had been around the lodge’s grounds for the last few days, and that particular morning two males had decided to snoop around the tall, thick, famous wild mango tree located right by the main area. While I had heard amazing stories of these beautiful pachyderms walking inside the lobby from members of staff and repeat guests, I had never actually seen this yet.

We told those of our guests who hadn’t gone out on a game drive about the elephants on the lawn, and they hurried to the library deck to get a closer look. I, on the other hand, had decided to stay near the reception. It was so quiet and I was alone, so I took the opportunity to call my mother via Skype to share with her some more of the incredible things I had seen so far since I had started working for the Bushcamp Company, just a few months earlier. Suddenly, one of the male elephants turned round the tree and came to stand right at the entrance to the lobby. I thought, ‘This is it!’. He and I locked eyes. I slowly turned the computer so my mother could also see him but at that moment the second male joined in and pushed the other in the back. Slowly, they both came inside the lobby and steadily made their way towards me. I stood up shakily and walked slowly behind the counter, still holding the laptop in front of me.

‘Stop moving! It’s all blurry, I can’t see them!’ my mother whispered excitedly. Tears of joy welled in my eyes, and my heart caught in my throat as I watched in awe as the two elephants walked peacefully right in front of me. They strode past and one of them gently lifted its trunk, sniffed the air around me and again looked me in the eye, before heading to the carpark. A deep sense of humility, unconditional love and respect for these stunning creatures filled me in that instant. Since then I have seen them walk through many times. But the excitement and feeling of anticipation when you know they are going to walk through remains the same. Each time is unique, and often funny.

One day, during afternoon tea, a huge matriarch stepped right inside the lounge where we had carrot cake on the table. Another time, two males urinated in the lobby while frantically greeting each other! Yet another time, a female grabbed a check-in card, pushed the tip box around and stuck her trunk out at the jug of juice which I was clutching against my chest! But my favourite moment is most certainly when guests see them for the very first time, as I know exactly how they feel. To watch such beautiful, wild animals so comfortable and safe around the lodge truly is a privilege and I am grateful every day for the opportunity to live amongst them. While they are even now around the lodge, already I can’t wait for the next elephant check-in, in October to November!

Zacks Tumbwe

Senior Chef at Mwamba Bush Camp

Tell us a bit about your background

I was born on 4th March, 1978. I did my primary education at Kawawaza Primary School which is now called Nsefu Secondary School from 1991 to 1997. I then went to Mfuwe Day Secondary for my grades eight and nine, then I did part of my senior secondary at Katete Secondary School from grade 10 to 11. Due to financial challenges I had to drop out of school in grade 11.

Can you tell me how it all began?

After dropping out of school, I went to Norman Carr Safaris to ask for financial assistance to complete my education. However, due to a high number of people who were requesting financial assistance, they offered me a part- time job to help me raise money for school fees. So, I started as a general worker under Norman Carr Safaris, mainly involved with camp building. Then, after working for a few months, I was taken into the kitchen as a kitchen assistant for two safari seasons. I was then appointed as a senior chef at Luwi Bush Camp which is under Norman Carr Safaris, though they used to move me to different bush camps under their operation.

How did you end up at Shenton Safaris as a chef?

After leaving Norman Carr Safaris in 2008, I stayed for three years without working. It was during this period that one of the managers from Shenton Safaris used to visit his friend at a certain house in Mfuwe town. I also used to be found at the same house helping with cooking; he was impressed with my cooking then he told me that at Shenton Safaris there was a vacancy for a chef. So, I’ve now been a chef here at Shenton Safaris for seven years and this year is my eighth year.

What is your favourite dish?

Dessert, any type of dessert. I just love preparing it because it gives me a lot of thinking.

Most memorable moment in the bush?

Here at Mwamba Bush Camp about three to four years ago we used to have a very old male lion which was named Lingo. You would find that every day in the evening he would come into camp, either in the dining area, at the staff compound and at times you would find him in the morning around the hide, feeding on puku or bushbuck. Conservation South Luangwa then came and darted him, then took him to another place away from the bush camp. This is one of the great experiences I will never forget.

What do you love most about Mwamba Bush Camp?

The place is quiet with a lot of wildlife, especially the cats and a lot of bird sounds.

Inside View: Shenton Safaris

Patrick Njobvu

Senior Guide, Shenton Safaris

When did you join Shenton Safaris?

I joined Shenton Safaris in June, 1992, as a builder, just when they started building the camp.

How did your safari guide journey start?

When the camp was opened in August, 1993, my boss Derek Shenton was the only guide and by then I had moved from being a builder to a waiter and a spotter. I developed an interest in guiding when I was a spotter. I then started studying guiding in 1993 and in 1995 I sat for my first exam to become a grade two safari guide. I then started guiding in 1996, and in 1999 I sat for the grade one safari guide exams. So I’ve now been guiding for 22 years.

Best animal experience?

I have had a lot of animal experiences: great lion and leopard sightings, over seven sightings of aardvark which is very rare—and all this happened on different occasions.

Your favourite safari… walk or drive?

I love both…walking because I love to be at the same level with animals, being close without the sound of the engine. Driving… I love it because I get very close to the animals which is just a different experience. So, in general I just love both.

Most fascinating animal?

The male eland, because of its size. It’s an antelope, and the largest of all the antelopes. It’s got a beautiful dewlap… and the sound it makes when it’s walking.

Favourite sound in the bush?

The call of the hyena. It gives me a picture that I am really in the bush.

How do you deal with guests who are on safari for the first time?

Firstly, I must find out what their interests are because we get guests with different interests. Once I know their interests then I start from there.

Have you had any scary encounter on safari?

Quite a few, but the scariest encounter was in 2009 when on a walking safari we got charged by a buffalo.

You have worked for Shenton Safaris for 26 years now. What’s the secret?

I think I am just at the right place—moving around means you have not found the right place and once you find the right place there is no reason to move around. I find this company very organised and my boss is very good, so I find no reason to move around.