The Luangwa River

Writer: John Coppinger Photography: Remote Africa Safaris, Scott Ramsey

The Luangwa River never ceases to fascinate and beguile me. How many rivers are there left on earth that flow for over 1,000 kilometres and are still as untouched, remote, healthy and scenically beautiful as the Luangwa? It’s pristine: no dams, no commercial agriculture and no livestock. Certainly no other river in Africa can make such a claim.

The river has a dramatic beginning, rising high in the Mafinga Hills, a plateau of over 7,000 feet and situated in the far northeast of Zambia. The source itself is a spring located just to the west of the watershed which forms the international boundary between Malawi and Zambia. This spring soon becomes a beautiful crystal-clear stream which runs through tropical forest and cascades down the Mafingas before reaching the valley floor, taking on the unique and unmistakable character of the Luangwa as most people know it. The Upper Luangwa is lined with dense reed beds and offers the stunning backdrop of the Makutu Mountains to the east and the Muchingas to the west.

The Middle Luangwa supports some of the finest wildlife concentrations in Africa and flows adjacent to and through three national parks: North Luangwa, Luambe and South Luangwa.

There are three gorges along the river, all along the Lower Luangwa: the first and most spectacular is in Chief Luembe’s country; the second just upstream of the confluence with the Lunsemfwa River and the third where this river is constricted between the Nyankongolo Hills, shortly before the confluence, where the Luangwa disperses into the Zambezi River. The river flows entirely within Zambia although a small section near the Zambezi confluence forms part of the international boundary with Mozambique.

The gorge in Chief Luembe’s country, through the Kampeketa range of hills, produces some of the most beautiful, rugged country along the course of the river. There are a number of rapids in the gorge, commencing with the most impressive, Chipinda cha Nyanga— ‘place of bad spirits’— which acquired its name from the

capsizing of a cargo of ivory, transported by Portuguese traders in a bygone era.

There is a recent proposal to dam the river at this gorge which would dramatically impact on the nature of the river and the inhabitants along its course. It is thought by many to be an ill-conceived plan which would displace thousands of local farmers in the area and also result in siltation on a grand scale, not to mention negative changes to the wildlife. There is a public outcry against this proposal.

The Middle Luangwa boasts heavy clay soils, which are fertile and rich in nutrients, but the presence of tsetse flies (which precludes the existence of domestic stock, vulnerable to nagana—sleeping sickness), and the prevalence of malaria, combined with an inhospitable environment, has resulted in little development and low human population densities. Much of the area is inaccessible during every rainy season as the floodplain becomes a quagmire and impossible to traverse. Consequently, the wildlife flourishes and nature reigns supreme. There can be few places where nature is as strong and each rainy season the rivers, dambos (shallow wetlands) and lagoons are replenished and support a wide array of animal and birdlife and for these reasons tourism is the only significant industry along the river.

The Luangwa Valley has been dubbed ‘The Valley of Elephants’ and great concentrations of these animals can still be seen in all three national parks, despite a very disturbing increase in Africa of poaching throughout the range of these magnificent animals.

Leopards are abundant, and the parks provide what are arguably the best places in Africa to see these beautiful animals. Lions, too, are numerous, although numbers are reported to be declining and concern has been expressed regarding the management of the hunting of these iconic big cats.

Wild dogs, which were adversely affected by a devastating anthrax outbreak in 1987, have made a dramatic comeback and are now regularly seen.

The Luangwa River contains the highest density of hippos in Africa and this feature alone justifies the existence of the three national parks. Hippos fertilise the water, which feeds the fish, which in turn feeds the crocodiles, and some stretches of river contain an incredible concentration of these prehistoric reptiles. It should be noted that fish is a very important source of protein for the people of the Valley and the existence of hippo is key to the abundance of fish. The Zambian Government has recently declared plans to cull 2,000 hippos in the mid-Luangwa, a decision based on fears of environmental degradation resulting from an overpopulation of these large animals. This has raised concern amongst conservationists locally and abroad and fears of potential damage to the tourist industry have also been expressed.

Currently, however, the mid-Luangwa Valley still holds an exceptional array of wildlife and offers tourists a world-class safari experience.

For further information, prospective visitors can visit the following sites:

South Luangwa National Park: http://www.zambiatour ism.com/accommodation/south-luangwa

North Luangwa National Park: http://www.zambiatour ism.com/accommodation/north-luangwa

Lodge LifeTell Us about yourself....

Briefly tell us about your background?

I was born on 25th May, 1980 in Chipata and grew up in Mfuwe, in the cropping area. I did my primary education from grades one to seven at Mfuwe Primary School then for my grades eight to nine I was at Mfuwe Basic School. For my senior secondary I was at Mambwe High School.

Are you married?

Yes, I am married to Jane Banda and we have three children, two boys and one girl.

Has your family been supportive of your work?

Very much… my wife has really been behind me. I spend a lot of time away from her and it takes someone who really understands, can support my family, send my children to school and be able to help the extended family.

You have been guiding for how many years and what guiding qualifications do you have?

Since 2006 which is 13 years ago. I have a grade two licence for driving and a grade one for walking safaris. I got the walking safari licence in 2007.

When did you join the Bushcamp Company?

At the end of 2005 as a trainee safari guide. I used to do general work, a spotter during evening game drives and cleaning the surroundings at Mfuwe Lodge.

You now manage Chamilandu Bushcamp and act as the guide. When did you assume this role?

At the beginning of 2017 safari season. I must say that I have had full support from the team here at Chamilandu who have helped me and together with them achieve a lot of things.

What do you always carry with you on safari?

- First aid kit.

FANNUEL BANDA Camp Manager, Chamilandu Bushcamp

- Enough water to drink for the guest and me. - A very special stick. - A Leatherman (knife).

Is being a safari guide a good career?

It’s a very good career. Like every other career, it takes someone with passion to like it. It helps me to learn more from the world, as I really feel great when I am able to interpret to the guests what the bush tells us like animal behaviour, nature tracking and what history has left for us.

It’s more like you wake up in the morning and nature has provided you with adequate information through the signs left behind. Getting to feel the proximity to nature when you are on a walking safari is one of the best experiences.

WINNIE BANDA

Chef, Nkwali Camp

Writer : Esnala Banda Photography: Robin Pope Safaris

‘I decided to join this industry for the adventure that working at a safari lodge would bring. The thought of working around the animals and being close to nature intrigued me,’ Winnie Banda says. Winnie is a chef at Nkwali Camp in Mfuwe, run by Robin Pope Safaris. She is the only female chef in a male dominated kitchen and explains that it is a field she’s enjoying conquering.

Robin Pope Safaris was founded in 1986 and offer a comprehensive range of locations in Zambia—the Victoria Falls and South Luangwa National Park. In Malawi it’s Lake Malawi, Majete Wildlife Reserve and, most recently, Liwonde National Park. And in Zimbabwe there’s John’s Camp in Mana Pools National Park.

This company offers an experience of the wonders of Africa’s secluded wilderness, rich culture, beautiful beaches and the outstanding wildlife, including leopard, lion, elephant, giraffe, zebra, buffalo, wild dog and hippo, to name a few. Added to this, more than 450 species of birds are to be found and an amazing array of tropical fish found only in Lake Malawi. This experience is not limited to the wilderness alone but spills over into its staff, kitchens and cuisine.

‘I have only worked here for just over a month and I’m having an awesome experience; being the only woman here had some privileges in terms of work load but I’m not about to take advantage of that, because anything the men can do I can do, and can do better,’ Winnie quips.

With a lively confidence, Winnie describes serving the early morning bush breakfast as the best part of her job.

‘Our day starts early. I like being trusted to do this by myself. It has been awesome, and even though there are wild animals around I’m not scared of them. Well, except maybe the hippos. Waking up early around 4.00 am can sometimes be a scary experience to walk to the bush fire but it’s an interesting experience.’ Winnie explains that other than breakfast, her favourite dishes to make are the salad dishes and various dressings. She is also excited at having the chance to improve her baking skills.

She adds that her parents have been very supportive of her choice to work in the tourism industry, especially her late mother.

Winnie is certain that she would have been a teacher if she wasn’t a chef. ‘I love the one-on-one interaction with kids, and love to babysit. I would probably teach pre-school if I couldn’t be a chef working here,’ she explains.