Why Mana Pools Should Be on Your Bucket List

WHY MANA POOLS SHOULD BE ON YOUR

Bucket List

Writer: Sarah Kerr Photography: Sarah Kerr the dry season, and the habitat is perfect for walking safaris because of the good visibility.

Despite their impressiveness, the numbers simply cannot do justice to what you experience when you actually visit Mana Pools. Taking a guided walk alongside wild elephants in these forests has to rank among one of my most sacred experiences. Mornings begin with a chorus of birdsong, at midday the cries of a fish eagle echo through the valley, and in the evenings amber rays of light pierce through the trees as animals kick up clouds of backlit dust. The natural rhythms transport you to a calmer time and you feel as if you are witnessing Eden.

Mana Pools National Park has been memorialised in many iconic images of an adult African bull elephant standing on his hind legs, trunk extended towards the branches of a majestic ana tree (Faidherbia albida). In these images the backdrop is tantalising…warm light fading into the blue tones of the Zambezi with the distant hills of Zambia painted in shades of indigo and lavender.

Stepping into this ancient landscape is truly a special experience, in which you feel at one with nature in a way not possible in most of the modern world. At Mana Pools the Zambezi widens and slows to flow languidly through the flood plains of a rift valley bordered by steep escarpments. This geography has led to the area’s unique ecology and beauty, and as a result Mana Pools National Park and the surrounding conservation areas are a designated World Heritage site.

Mana Pools National Park is a little less than 2,200 square kilometers in size and part of a greater unfenced conservation area that measures an incredible 10,500 square kilometres. Animals can move freely throughout this area and some even venture across the river to the Lower Zambezi National Park and other conservation areas in Zambia. Alongside the Zambezi lie ancient river terraces covered by magnificent albida and mahogany trees with little undergrowth. These fertile flood plains attract high numbers of grazing animals, especially in however, because a particular feature of the valley is that it hosts no wildebeest or giraffe. We believe this is because they never navigated the steep terrain of the valley’s edge.

Back from the river towards the escarpment is a thick scrubland known as ‘jesse bush’, an inhospitable region to most but beloved by the notorious tsetse fly. While their bite is a nuisance, these flies were actually instrumental in preventing the development of the area. Previously they harboured a disease called ‘sleeping sickness’ (trypanosomiasis) which prevented the area from being used for livestock. This disease, coupled with the natural barriers formed by the Zambezi and the steep escarpments, prevented any environmental damage through development or alternative land uses.

Beyond the ‘jesse’ lie forests of cathedral mopane interspersed with giant gnarled baobabs. These areas have their own special beauty and many animals retreat here in the rainy season when the flood plains become boggy. These habitats range from riverine to arid and scrub to forest, making Mana Pools a very special place for the avid birdwatcher. Some notable birding specials are the Livingstone’s flycatcher, black-throated wattle-eye, Nyasa lovebird, red-necked falcon and eastern nicator. Over 380 species have been recorded in the area.

Whether you visit for the birding, the incredible landscape or to bear witness to one of Africa’s highest concentrations of game animals during the dry season, Mana’s magic will leave you forever changed, and forever longing to return.

'Mana's magic will leave you forever changed, and forever longing to return'

The flood plains’ high numbers of grazing animals create a veritable theatre and those who are present will surely be rewarded by one of nature’s finest shows.

The area is known for its magnificent male elephants, and they are accompanied by large concentrations of buffalo, eland, impala, waterbuck, baboons, monkeys, zebra and warthog, plus basking crocodiles and hippos in a veritable parade along the river’s edge. Predators such as lion, spotted hyena, cheetah and leopard are often seen.

A significant highlight is that Mana boasts one of Africa’s highest concentrations of endangered African wild dogs. These beautiful animals are also known as Cape hunting dogs or painted dogs, and this area has recently featured in David Attenborough’s acclaimed TV series Dynasties on the BBC network. A few animals are missing from the daily show,

QUICK FACTS

• Mana Pools is one of Africa’s least utilised national parks, a remote wonderland of wilderness that will leave you in awe of nature. • The park gets its name from four large shallow pools created by the meanderings of the river (‘mana’ means ‘four’ in Shona). • Due to the rugged terrain of the escarpment, the poor quality of the roads and the park’s isolation, it is easiest to fly into the area. • It is possible for the intrepid and well-equipped traveller to self-drive. • The clay base of the flood plains makes road access near-impossible in the rainy season and many camps and lodges in the region are only open between April and November. I find the best time to visit is from May to early September. Late September to the end of October offers the best game-viewing season but temperatures will be very high. • Mana Pools is known for walking safaris in the flood plain forests where a lack of undergrowth allows unobstructed views of wildlife and a safe environment. • The area is also perfect for canoeing safaris, as the Zambezi is broad and slow flowing here and many camps offer a flexible choice of land- and water-based activities.

WHERE TO STAY

• Wilderness Safaris operate the beautifully appointed Ruckomechi Camp and Little Ruckomechi to the west of Mana Pools National Park as well as the newly opened and equally luxurious Chikwenya Camp to the east. www.wilderness-safaris.com