Northern Zambia: The Hidden Jewel

Northern Zambia

The Hidden Jewel

Turquoise and deep blue waters, white sandy beaches, a traditional way of life and cultural practices...sounds like a remote Pacific island, but this is Lake Tanganyika, the second largest body of freshwater on the planet and the hidden jewel in Zambia’s crown.

The lake itself is over 50 kilometres wide, 650 kilometres long and 1,400 metres deep, with water temperatures fluctuating between 23°C–28˚C. Surrounded by tall Rift Valley cliffs the area has its own tropical micro climate, perfect for winter sun in the southern hemisphere and keeping the area more temperate—relative to the rest of Zambia—in the summer.

To the east of Zambia’s only port, Mpulungu, are pretty bays, large fishing communities and several lodges offering the type of exclusivity only a remote location can. As you approach the Kalambo River and Tanzanian border, the transition from Bemba to Swahili culture is overtly displayed by the local colour choices... from housing façades and fishing dhows to chitenges—a chitenge is a colourful piece of clothing, rather like a sarong, usually worn by women. If you visit the villages, the merge in cultures becomes more apparent with the mixture of dialects and the move from nshima (maize) to rice as the staple starch of choice—even the villages either side of the Kalambo estuary share the same name.

The Kalambo Falls is still too far north (along with the lake) to be included in the normal tourism circuits, but fairly recent development along the top of the Rift Valley from Mbala has made the falls much more accessible for the intrepid explorer. However, the more rewarding experience, for those fit enough, is to hike the steep Rift Valley up to the gorge overlooking the falls from one of the lodges below.

The western shoreline stretches further north up to the DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo) border with only a few lodges of note on the way. Local ferries, now upgraded, allow low cost travel on a daily basis (except weekends) as far as Nsumbu town, the last major Zambian settlement on the lake. These ferries have also become a vital supply line for the isolated communities along this side of the lake.

Between Mpulungu and the Lufubu River mouth are some of the most stunning vistas on the lake of the Rift Valley; the towering cliff faces, stacks and gullies look more suited to the Grand Canyon than northern Zambia. If you are ever fortunate enough to be on the lake at night in June, then the spectacle of early burning across the top of the cliffs and the glow from hundreds of paraffin lights belonging to kapenta (resembles a sardine) fishermen on the waters below gives the illusion of some lost metropolitan cityscape.

Past the Lufubu is Nsumbu National Park, 2,000 square kilometres of pristine wilderness, 80 kilometres of lake shore, a mixture of plains, escarpment, miombo woodland, dense itigi thicket unique to the area and untouched beaches. The park went into partnership with FZS (Frankfurt Zoological Society) two years ago and that expertise and experience from North Luangwa has already had a huge impact on the wildlife of Nsumbu. The aim eventually is to reintroduce some key—previously indigenous— species back to the area including black rhino and lion which should help expand Zambia’s safari circuit right up into the north.

The park is already fortunate to have a recovering elephant population that can be viewed regularly swimming and drinking along the shores of the lake, as well as diverse antelope species. Kala Bay has become a favourite bay for wildlife to spend late afternoons under the opportunistic gaze of some of the largest crocodiles in Southern Africa.

This far north, on a clear day, you can see far up along the DRC coast and all the way across to Tanzania; combine this with a very low footfall national park and you have a unique experience that really gives perspective to the remoteness and untouched beauty of this part of Africa.

Below the surface of the lake are about 250 species of cichlid fish unique to Tanganyika. To find them all, one would need to dive most of the lake at a variety of depths, but there are some resorts that offer dive or snorkel excursions and even PADI level training that allow you to see some of the best. Freshwater scuba is new to a lot of even experienced divers with the unexpected change in buoyancy, but once acclimatised it is an unforgettable experience, highlighted by the year-round warmth of the water (even at depth), weak currents and unique environment. Ndole Bay Lodge remains the only registered PADI resort in Zambia and conducts dive experiences for all levels of divers. The emperor cichlid, otherwise known as nkupi or yellowbelly (not to be confused with the bream further south), is a staple for anglers on the lake, a strong fighting fish on light tackle with a big hit. It just so happens also to be one of the best eating freshwater fish on the planet. For serious fish connoisseurs this is a ‘must try’, fresh out of the lake onto a charcoal braai (barbecue) with a splash of lemon.

Accessibility to this gorgeous part of Zambia depends on your budget. Charter flights can get you directly to Mbala or Nkamba airstrips near the lake where your lodge of choice can organise a meet and transfer. Making a road trip of it allows one to deviate to some of the other northern gems, and for those on a budget, buses run daily from all the major towns and cities of Zambia. However you choose to get there, there is no doubt that the end destination is well worth the time and effort.

Angling is still the main attraction on the lake with large perch and tiger fish at the top of everyone’s list. Those lucky enough will be catching fish from a boat drifting parallel to a secluded beach, with elephant basking in the waters nearby as the sun drops low and the waters flatten out to look like glass.